Connect mono amp. + subwoofer to stock HU?

[IsLNdbOi]

What would I need to connect this mono amp.:

Pioneer GM-D7400M - mono amplifier
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-aJtHmMDlzic/p_130GMD7400/Pioneer-GM-D7400M.html (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD7400/Pioneer-GM-D7400M.html?search=D7400M)


and this sub.:

Pioneer TS-SW2541D - 10", 4-ohm, shallow subwoofer
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Av0oAY10XZ1/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?I=130TSS2541

to the stock head unit? I know I'll need speaker wires to connect the sub. to the amp. and then power and ground cables to connect the amp. to the battery and a ground. I'll be mounting the amp. under either of the front seats and the sub in a custom enclosure that fits in the spare tire in my hatch / trunk.

So, what else would I need to get this amp. and sub. fully working with the stock head unit?

This is the only cable the amp. comes with:
http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/82-117-229-07.jpg
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ShowImage.aspx?Image=82-117-229-03.jpg%2c82-117-229-02.jpg%2c82-117-229-04.jpg%2c82-117-229-05.jpg%2c82-117-229-06.jpg%2c82-117-229-07.jpg%2c82-117-229-08.jpg%2c82-117-229-09.jpg&S7ImageFlag=0&WaterMark=1&Item=N82E16882117229&Depa=0&Description=Pioneer%20GM-D7400M%20800W%20Mono%20MOSFET%20Car%20Amplifier (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ShowImage.aspx?Image=82-117-229-03.jpg%2c82-117-229-02.jpg%2c82-117-229-04.jpg%2c82-117-229-05.jpg%2c82-117-229-06.jpg%2c82-117-229-07.jpg%2c82-117-229-08.jpg%2c82-117-229-09.jpg&S7ImageFlag=0&WaterMark=1&Item=N82E16882117229&Depa=0&Description=Pioneer%20GM-D7400M%20800W%20Mono%20MOSFET%20Car%20Amplifier)

[battleversiontc]

instead of that the rca that was supplied i would buy a line out put converter. ive installed using that before on a customers car and there was alot of feed back the line out converter wires into the factory speaker wires which are left rear is black + yellow - and the rear right red + white - the amp turn on is the black wire in the bigger harness. there are three harnesses back there its the 6 pin one i would at least run a 1 farad cap with that set up and run a 4 ga amp kit which normally come with power, ground, rcas, amp turn on, 60 amp fuse with holder.

[IsLNdbOi]

I already have upgraded battery terminals in my Yaris and the positive terminal has a built in fuse holder with a 150A fuse.

The mono amp's manual says to use 8GA power and ground wires. Is a cap really necessary for this amp. and sub.?

Thanks for your input battleversiontc, but your post is kind of hard to read / understand.

Anyone else?

[battleversiontc]

i would run a 4 ga more flow and the response to the amp is better. i would run a cap. 150a fuse that to big

[IsLNdbOi]

The manual says to use 8ga power and ground wires though for the specified length I need (less than 18ft, use 8ga). I'll be mounting this amp. under the front passenger seat so I'll only need around 10 ft. of power wire and 1 foot or less of ground wire since I'll be grounding it with one of the passenger seat's bolts that attach it to the car floor.

The fuse came with the fuse holder battery terminal. do I really need to buy a new fuse? Is a cap. really necessary?

I don't understand what you were talking about above:
instead of that the rca that was supplied i would buy a line out put converter. ive installed using that before on a customers car and there was alot of feed back the line out converter wires into the factory speaker wires which are left rear is black + yellow - and the rear right red + white - the amp turn on is the black wire in the bigger harness. there are three harnesses back there its the 6 pin one i would at least run a 1 farad cap with that set up and run a 4 ga amp kit which normally come with power, ground, rcas, amp turn on, 60 amp fuse with holder.

[battleversiontc]

ok put it this way think of a straw and a garden hose if you use the rec spec which is the 8ga (straw) you will eventual run into the amp shutting off due to not enough energy being restored everytime the amp hits it wont be fast enough there for considered as overheating. the 4ga (hose) will supply enough power to the amp faster in order for the amp to keep hitting hard. the cap is neccessary as it will help the amp out by supplying power closer the response is faster regardless of how many feet you need. all amps even my 2000watt said to use a 8ga wire but my amp keep shutting off so i changed to a 4ga solved problem. you need to use a 60 amp fuse cause if you use a 150a fuse the amp will toast itself before ever popping the fuse. the above thing the line output converter will allow you to add a pair of rca outputs to the back of the factory hu if you use the one pictured you will have alot of static and feedback coming from the sub. the wiring is lr speaker wires and so on and so on so you can wire the line output converter to it.

[IsLNdbOi]

Ah ok, I just read that the fuse in the fuse holder should be equal to the fuses in the amp.. This amp. has two 25A fuses so I'll need a 50A fuse in the fuse holder.

Now, about the 4ga vs. 8ga wiring. If the manual for the amp. says to use 8ga power and ground wires for lengths less than 18ft, should I still use 4ga wires anyway?

Anyone know where I can get a mono line output converter to use with this amp. and the stock head unit?

Edit:
Beat me to replying to my own thread battleversiontc. I guess I have to shell out more money for a cap now. Know of any lower priced, but still good caps.?

[battleversiontc]

Ah ok, I just read that the fuse in the fuse holder should be equal to the fuses in the amp.. This amp. has two 25A fuses so I'll need a 50A fuse in the fuse holder.

Now, about the 4ga vs. 8ga wiring. If the manual for the amp. says to use 8ga power and ground wires for lengths less than 18ft, should I still use 4ga wires anyway?

Anyone know where I can get a mono line output converter to use with this amp. and the stock head unit?

well every amp is less the 18ft mounted no matter the car i have never used up the 17ft of wire that was ever supplied. but i would use a 4ga or you can try wire an 8ga in there but if it keeps shutting off then you need to add a bigger gauge which is 4ga but it also gives you the room to expand to a bigger system if you needed to. un you can get a line output converter from bestbuy or circuit city or any custom stereo shop. and dont you already have a cap cause ive seen your other thread before about cap placements

[IsLNdbOi]

No cap. yet. Was going to get one to go along with the PDX-5, but plans have changed. I've looked around and have seen 4-channel and 2-channel line output converters, but I haven't seen one for subs (1-channel / mono).

Edit:
I guess the 2-channel ones will work since this mono amp. has a left and right RCA input.

[battleversiontc]

yeah the two chan will work.

[IsLNdbOi]

Ok, I've got a couple of choices:

PAC TRUNK-LOC
2-channel Line Output Converter w/ remote trigger
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5285_PAC+TRUNK-LOC.html


SoundGate LOC4.2
2-channel "Audiophile series" Line Output Converter
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11288_SoundGate+LOC4.2.html#


The SoundGate might sound better since it's from SoundGate's "Audiophile series" of products, but the PAC has a trigger that would be useful as a remote turn-on for the amp.. The SoundGate is pretty expensive too.

Also, do these line output converters really need to be connected to either the left or right rear speakers' speaker wires or can they be connected to any of the speakers' (front left or right / rear left or right) wires near the HU's harness connector inside the dash / behind the HU?

I'm putting the amp. up front under the passenger seat so it would be easier if I could connect this line output converter to the speaker wires up at the head unit's harness.

[battleversiontc]

it comes with a +/- side with 4 wires to two speakers i normally wrap the two + together and put it to one speaker + and wrap the - sides together and out it the same speaker just - side the pac audios are actually good products ive had them before they sounded great no problems with them u always want to use the rear outputs of the radio. the wire colors i provided up top is for the back of the hu

[IsLNdbOi]

Line Output Converter = LOC

Cool so I can:
- Twist the LOC's +wires together.

- Twist the LOC's -wires together.


then:
- Connect the LOC's twisted +wires to any of the speaker +wires on the HU's harness.

- Connect the LOC's twisted -wires to any of the speaker -wires on the HU's harness.

all behind the HU.

[battleversiontc]

yup! either off the left speaker or the right speaker

[IsLNdbOi]

So I can connect the LOC's twisted wires to any of the speaker's wires, but they have to be connected to only one speaker's wires?

For example, I can't connect the LOC's +wires to the +wire of the front right speaker and then the LOC's -wires to the -wire of the front left speaker?

Just want to make sure.

[battleversiontc]

only to one speaker since one speaker has a +/- on it

[IsLNdbOi]

Thanks alot battleversiontc! Now I'll be ready to hook this stuff up once I get them.

Anyone know of a way to connect the LOC to the speaker wires coming from the stock HU's harness w/o tapping or cutting into the stock wiring?

[battleversiontc]

not a problem instead of tapping or cutting you can always try to pull the pin out with a pick

[IsLNdbOi]

The pin for the speaker's +wire and -wire in the harness? How would that work? I wouldn't be able to plug the harness back in I think.

[battleversiontc]

you pull them out solder the wire to it and stick it back in it will go back in theres enough room

[IsLNdbOi]

Anyone else have ideas on how to connect the LOC w/o tapping into, cutting or splicing the stock wiring?

[eii]

Anyone else have ideas on how to connect the LOC w/o tapping into, cutting or splicing the stock wiring?

Well isnt that the whole point of a LOC is so you can tap the existing wire? You can find exposed wires and 'twist' them and pray for the best, though the connections will be weak and so your sub wont sound so good. If it works ok, those connections will most likely losen over time. Its easier if you just work with the harness and tap the wires from there. If you dont wanna cut, splice, solder, tap the wires your only otherway would be to buy a HU with RCA outputs.

BTW battleversiontc, were you the one helping me with LOC pre-hax? :laugh:

I'm not an expert, but I did what battleversiontc mention in THIS thread and it worked out for me.

[IsLNdbOi]

I think I've found a solution.

Get this:
Metra harness adapter (plugs into car-side of HU harness)
http://retailer.installationexcellence.com/productfeatures.aspx?retailerid=1944&productid=1058&sid=504F7199-9B44-4136-B405-0E9EFD3F98E3&vehicleid=219980

Metra harness adapter (plugs into stock HU)
http://retailer.installationexcellence.com/productfeatures.aspx?retailerid=1944&productid=1059&sid=504F7199-9B44-4136-B405-0E9EFD3F98E3&vehicleid=219980


I think you can see where I'm going with this. I can twist the LOC's wires with a speaker's wire on both harness adapters, match the rest of the wires then plug each harness adapter into their respective places (one end into the HU's car-side harness and the other end into the HU).

[battleversiontc]

Well isnt that the whole point of a LOC is so you can tap the existing wire? You can find exposed wires and 'twist' them and pray for the best, though the connections will be weak and so your sub wont sound so good. If it works ok, those connections will most likely losen over time. Its easier if you just work with the harness and tap the wires from there. If you dont wanna cut, splice, solder, tap the wires your only otherway would be to buy a HU with RCA outputs.

BTW battleversiontc, were you the one helping me with LOC pre-hax? :laugh:

I'm not an expert, but I did what battleversiontc mention in THIS thread and it worked out for me.

i think so

yeah you can do that to if your trying to keep your wires from being tapped into