Problem removing front brake rotor

[jkuchta]

Hey everyone,

I ran into a problem last night and would like to know if anyone has a solution.


I was changing out the front rotors and pads on my 07' HB, and got the driver's side done just fine, but when I went over to the pass. side, I couldn't get the rotor off. The driver's side rotor just slipped of like cake, but the pass. side won't budge! I ended up just putting the driver's side OEM rotor back on (ran out of light), but I'm determined to get them changed next Monday.

Is there a trick for the pass. side rotor that I'm missing? Is the thing just corroded on there (didn't look any better or worse than the driver's side), or is there a hidden set screw or something that I'm missing?

Thanks in advance for the replies!

[kou]

did you try the BFH.

[jkuchta]

For like 30 min. I talked to a tech at Toyota Glendora this morning and hes said that one of both rotors sticking is pretty common, and that there are two M8 threaded holes in the rotor that I can use to force the rotor off of the spindle. I can't wait to try it!

[battleversiontc]

try hit the center lightly with a hammer on the top not the top of the rotor but the top of the center as sometimes they get stuck on there so you gotta give it a little tap to kinda budge it loose

[Shroomster]

For like 30 min. I talked to a tech at Toyota Glendora this morning and hes said that one of both rotors sticking is pretty common, and that there are two M8 threaded holes in the rotor that I can use to force the rotor off of the spindle. I can't wait to try it!
^^^^^you need to be careful as you can strip the bolt you're using to "push" the rotor and if it is really seized good, the following is your safest and best option:



IF you are replacing (getting rid of the stock rotor) your best bet to avoid damaging anything is to:

- take everything off down to the rotor

- place two lugnuts on studs across from each other and thread them up finger tight

- turn the hub out as far as possible

- take a BIG faced hammer and beat away from the car on the inside face of the rotor (the place the pad touches)

- don't stay in one place; every hit you should turn the axle/rotor until the rotor comes loose

a good little bit of advice rub the bearing housing/axle end lip/flange with anti-seize
(where the rotor center sits)

[auxmike]

Spray it down with some PB Blaster, works like a charm. Trick is to go back and spray it again after 15min. Give it a good 1/2 hour to seep in.
I did this on rear discs on my Saturn. Those things were like bonded in place. PB Blaster took care of it!

[jonismyname]

the real trick is using never sieze when you put it all back together. after swinging a 5lb sledge like a baseball bat to do brakes on my metro, i listened to the good advice, and am glad i did. use it where steel wheels meet the hub too, and i like it on lug nuts and anything else i can use up the big jar on...

the set screw's won't do you a bit of good, 8mm=small=broken bolt/stripped.

it's hammer time, and PB works fantastic too

[Shroomster]

well update?

oh and jonismyname - please use the anti-seize SPARINGLY it reduces friction and torque drastically if too much is applied. just a very small amount goes a long way permatex reps (makers of all sorts of gasket/sealent/adhesive materials) have done numerous demos at my job and school on products including antiseize and bonding (loctite) stuff

[ChinoCharles]

1) Light a quarter stick of dynamite
2) Toss in wheel well
3) Watch anxiously w/ hands clasped
4) Retrieve your rotor

No, seriously, I remember from doing mine that one side threw us for a loop for about 10 minutes. You just aren't hitting it hard enough. :wink: Also, ditto on the never seize.

[marcus]

ok i have ran into this before...check the front of the rotors it should have 2 or 3 small holes with threads in it..you have to find a bolt that fits them hole and wrench it.. the bolt will push the rotors away from the base. bingo..that what those holes are for..

[largeorangefont]

Spray it down with some PB Blaster, works like a charm. Trick is to go back and spray it again after 15min. Give it a good 1/2 hour to seep in.
I did this on rear discs on my Saturn. Those things were like bonded in place. PB Blaster took care of it!


This works great..

[jkuchta]

I'll be getting to it on Monday. PB and a few bolts should do the trick. I'll take pics. and post when I'm done.

Thanks again everyone for the advice!

[RagnaCaT]

Get rubber hammer or is it called mallet don't know and hit around the rotor since it's rubber it won't damage anyting and cost about 5 bucks it'll pop off

[cali yaris]

RagnaCaT, he tried that for about a half hour with no luck. I watched. The rotor just didn't want to come off that way.

[marcus]

USE a bolt on the rotor holes.. thats why them hole is there to push the rotor away from the base..just use a bolt that will fit

[RagnaCaT]

RagnaCaT, he tried that for about a half hour with no luck. I watched. The rotor just didn't want to come off that way.

Wow and here at home it's very rainy sometimes, well he's best shot is what marcus is explaining

[Shroomster]

well didja get it off yet?

[jkuchta]

With the two bolts the stuck rotor popped right off! It seems as though the rotor fused itself to the center of the axel (what would be the centering ring for the wheel). A little anti-seize should fix that. I totally forgot to take pics of the new rotors, though I can say that slotted rotors and the XP8 pads make for some pretty crazy stopping power! The wife's yaris still has the stock setup, and I've nearly gotten in trouble braking a little late in some instances. I'll post a full review in the next day or so.

[cali yaris]

awesome, CarboTech is the shizzle for brakes!! :thumbsup:

[KCALB SIRAY]

awesome, CarboTech is the shizzle for brakes!! :thumbsup:

please don't ever say that word again, :laugh: it just doesn't sound right

[metalshark]

Just a couple more tips for the M8 forcing screws. 1) blow out or tap the M8 holes before using them. 2) Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads of the forcing screws. 3) Put some pre-load torque on the screws, Then go around the rotor beating on it. If you alternate between tightening the jacking screws and beating on the rotor no rust can defeat you. A little heat on the rotor bore never hurts either if you happen to have a "hot wrench" (oxy-acetylene torch).

[Kawika No Ka 'Oi]

Has anyone determined that M8 bolts will in FACT fit the threaded rotor holes? :confused:

For like 30 min. I talked to a tech at Toyota Glendora this morning and hes said that one of both rotors sticking is pretty common, and that there are two M8 threaded holes in the rotor that I can use to force the rotor off of the spindle. I can't wait to try it!

[CTScott]

Has anyone determined that M8 bolts will in FACT fit the threaded rotor holes? :confused:

I have a couple of bolts that I use, but I don't have access to them at the moment to check. Most Japanese cars use M8x1.25, but for some reason I want to say that the Yaris uses fine pitch (M8x1.0). Just buy yourself two of each to be safe.

[invader166]

Tried to replace the front rotors today, and ran into the same problem with rotors rusted to the hub. Neither one of the front rotors wanted to came off. I tied the BFH method, but no luck. I also suspect the threads of the jacking-bolt holes are rusted to the point where if I try to use jacking screws, they'll just strip right out...

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k137/invader166/Mobile%20Uploads/20160227_085045_zpsjizsvwq0.jpg

For now i've changed out the pads, but the rotors are warped and I want to change them out as well.

Any other suggestions on what I can try? :iono:

[Exiwolfman]

Big hammer give it a good hit from behind or bolts in front to push rotators off...but one good hit with hammer works great lol

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