5w-20 motor oil : who's using it ? ...

[gid]

What brand ? Synthetic or conventional ( regular ) ? Increase in mileage ? More power ? More engine noise ( chain , valves ) than when using the 5w-30 ? THANKS

[YarisSedan]

I would use a synthetic oil with 5w-20. Usually synthetic protects just as much as the next highest step up of organic oil while giving you the benifits of a lower viscocity such as increased gas milage.

My brothers toyota had same amount of engine noise at idle as mine. And when he put in amsoil high performance oil. He said his car never has idled smoother. All the sound went away. And it feels like the car has more power on the freeway. It could all be in his head but i can say it does idle very smooth and its quite as a mouse on idle. I am very anxiouse to do the same to my car soon as the engine is broken in in a few more miles.

[IllusionX]

why 5w-20? 20 offers less heat resistance.

[gid]

why 5w-20? 20 offers less heat resistance. PENNZOIL Platinum 5w-20 full synthetic motor oil has has been getting very good Used Oil Analysises at www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=3&page=1 , viscosity numbers ( friction = heat ) have been quite good . Go to other pages for PLATINUM 5w-20 write ups .

[barryware]

5-30 here, full synthetic.

Works out because my wife's car takes 6 quarts for an oil change and the yaris takes 4. The extra quart I end up with (when buying 5 quart jugs) goes in her car.

[PaidTimeOff]

Just did my first oil change with some cheap 5w20 dino oil. Seems to run the same to me, but the car's still basically brand new so I don't think it can run much smoother than it already is. I decided to wait until at least my next oil change to go full synthetic. I'll be going Royal Purple. Still haven't decided on 5w20 or 5w30 for that...

[gid]

Just did my first oil change with some cheap 5w20 dino oil. Seems to run the same to me, but the car's still basically brand new so I don't think it can run much smoother than it already is. I decided to wait until at least my next oil change to go full synthetic. I'll be going Royal Purple. Still haven't decided on 5w20 or 5w30 for that... which cheap dino for 5w-20 ?

[marcus]

in canada they dont suggest 5w-20 then again dealer is a dealer they will tell you to use whats written on the oil cap..

[floydisrock]

deleted

[PaidTimeOff]

I don't know why anyone would use 20 weight.:iono:

Marginally better mpg and some of us in more temperate climates (Hawaii, for example) don't need the higher weight oil.

[PaidTimeOff]

which cheap dino for 5w-20 ?

Rather not say, because we don't need to turn this thread into a "this oil is better than that oil" thread :wink:

[gid]

I'd rather see everyone stick to topic , not to include 5w-30 , or question it's use . THANKS

[floydisrock]

deleted

[candy_jai]

I changed to 5w20 castrol syntec at 20,000km and from my observation, it was rough for the first 1000km, and my milage went down. Now with about 2500km later, it still idle roughly as i can hear the ticking when stopped while in D. Overall the engine seems to be noisier and sounds more rougher. I can hear the plastics in the rear hatch vibrating abit when accelerating gently (2000rpm). On the next oil change, ill try 5w30 castrol syntec bought on sale from canadian tire.

[Ace]

What brand ? Synthetic or conventional ( regular ) ? Increase in mileage ? More power ? More engine noise ( chain , valves ) than when using the 5w-30 ? THANKS

Started using 5w-20 synthetic on first oil changed… bought new 08 yaris may 2008… will continue using 5w-20 until next summer… then I switch to 5w-30 synthetic.

Never kept up with mileage, power or noise.

[SilverGlow]

why 5w-20? 20 offers less heat resistance.

A lot of people that don't understand how oil works think this.

Thinner oil means faster circulation at start up. Faster circulation to the farthest reaches of an engine means less wear. And it is at start up that 90% of engine wear happens. At full operational speeds, the protection that w20 provides is nearly identical to most 30 weights.

[gid]

A lot of people that don't understand how oil works think this.

Thinner oil means faster circulation at start up. Faster circulation to the farthest reaches of an engine means less wear. And it is at start up that 90% of engine wear happens. At full operational speeds, the protection that w20 provides is nearly identical to most 30 weights. .

[TheSilkySmooth]

A lot of people that don't understand how oil works think this.

Thinner oil means faster circulation at start up. Faster circulation to the farthest reaches of an engine means less wear. And it is at start up that 90% of engine wear happens. At full operational speeds, the protection that w20 provides is nearly identical to most 30 weights.
This is an oversimplification on your part. The oil must provide adequate viscosity for the running clearance of the engine design - most critical are the journal clearance and piston to wall clearance. If you run an inadequate viscosity you will easily have catastrophic engine failure. As for margin lube contact wear in cam lobe-to-tappet face, piston top-to- bore, crank flange to journal thrust cap, and unfortunately add for our engines; timing chain sprocket to guide and chain to sprocket. Proper lubrication here relies all on the polar nature of the base oil (most popular syn are NOT polar) and the metal salt extreme pressure additives in the oil. Without them you WILL have premature wear no matter how good your base oil is (Good as in Motul, Redline, Fuchs, ELF NOT Mobil, Pennzoil, BP!) If toyota specs 30w and 20W they are really flirting with disaster. The motor MUST be clearanced for one or the other. Guaranteed we will see a high percentage of spun bearings and collapsed piston skirts with this misguided TSB policy on our 1nzfe engine.

Sonja's Dad

[TheSilkySmooth]

Just as an example BMW M engines have been failing running our API SL, SM 10W-30. Also Chevrolet (corvette) pulled its mobil1 recommendaion and factory fill last year due to the oil NOT staying in viscosity grade throughout the OC service interval.

[SilverGlow]

This is an oversimplification on your part. The oil must provide adequate viscosity for the running clearance of the engine design - most critical are the journal clearance and piston to wall clearance. If you run an inadequate viscosity you will easily have catastrophic engine failure. As for margin lube contact wear in cam lobe-to-tappet face, piston top-to- bore, crank flange to journal thrust cap, and unfortunately add for our engines; timing chain sprocket to guide and chain to sprocket. Proper lubrication here relies all on the polar nature of the base oil (most popular syn are NOT polar) and the metal salt extreme pressure additives in the oil. Without them you WILL have premature wear no matter how good your base oil is (Good as in Motul, Redline, Fuchs, ELF NOT Mobil, Pennzoil, BP!) If toyota specs 30w and 20W they are really flirting with disaster. The motor MUST be clearanced for one or the other. Guaranteed we will see a high percentage of spun bearings and collapsed piston skirts with this misguided TSB policy on our 1nzfe engine.

Sonja's Dad

But your write up does not apply to this discussion.

You know why?

You are the one that is over-simplifying this issue. Why then do many UOA reports (Used Oil Analysis) show that using 20 weight oil does not in fact show more wear and tear?

Because Toyota has back-spec'd our cars for 20 weight oil, and if it would cause engine failure, then why would they invite millions of in-warranty repairs by publising the TSB, which states we all can use 20 weight in our cars.

And you know more then Toyota engineers? Why would Toyota willfully dirty their reputation and name by telling us to use 20 weight oil if it will cause enginen damage? Please.....

The only way what that what you write is true is if someone uses 20 weight on a engine THAT IS NOT SPEC'D FOR 20w oil.

This is not the case with our Yaris 1.5L engines.

[SilverGlow]

Just as an example BMW M engines have been failing running our API SL, SM 10W-30. Also Chevrolet (corvette) pulled its mobil1 recommendaion and factory fill last year due to the oil NOT staying in viscosity grade throughout the OC service interval.

NO oil stays in viscosity during it's life.

ALL oils will eventually shear down in viscosity, and often this shearing is not much because oxidation of that oil can actually thicken the oil.

Spends some time at bobistheoilguy.com and learn how oil works...otherwise your opinions are based on nothing scientific.

[TheSilkySmooth]

NO oil stays in viscosity during it's life.

ALL oils will eventually shear down in viscosity, and often this shearing is not much because oxidation of that oil can actually thicken the oil.

Spends some time at bobistheoilguy.com and learn how oil works...otherwise your opinions are based on nothing scientific.
Who do you think you are talking to? You have logical argument? You make me laugh so hard I bust my kidney, little boy - getting too big for your pants, little boy.
You have a speck of knowledge but not enough to be anywhere near expert in field of tribology. BITOG are rank amatures and full of misinformation. If you think this is good site you have been fooled. Spend seven years at University maybe you have some more knowledge.

[pinoypizzaboy]

im begining to like this thread:thumbup:

[metalshark]

I ran factory dino for 10,000 miles and then switched to Mobil-1 5w-30. I did a multi-tank mileage test before and after the first change-over and got exactly the same mileage. My three-tank average at the 15 K mark is 43 MPG. I'll be posting my three tank (after) average for Amsoil 5w-20 in three weeks.
I did the change yesterday. Very little metal on the magnetic drain plug. I haven't noticed any increase in noise yet and butt-dyno says yes. When the stats are in I'll post under mileage.

[PaidTimeOff]

Who do you think you are talking to? You have logical argument? You make me laugh so hard I bust my kidney, little boy - getting too big for your pants, little boy.
You have a speck of knowledge but not enough to be anywhere near expert in field of tribology. BITOG are rank amatures and full of misinformation. If you think this is good site you have been fooled. Spend seven years at University maybe you have some more knowledge.

I had no idea spending seven years at a University grants one professional oil knowledge... I knew I should've stayed there two more years! :bonk:

[dallas]

Lighter oil on start up also means less oil on engine parts when starting as they drain of faster, also lighter oils need more ep additives because of the boundary lubrication which can occur, I'd rather let the oil do the work not the ep additives. In hot climates a 5w20 or 0w20 is quite light at operating temperatures and will have more wear over a 5w30 or 0w30. Best choice would be to use a 0w30 for least amount of wear. If all you care about is best mileage go with the lightest oil you can find.


A lot of people that don't understand how oil works think this.

Thinner oil means faster circulation at start up. Faster circulation to the farthest reaches of an engine means less wear. And it is at start up that 90% of engine wear happens. At full operational speeds, the protection that w20 provides is nearly identical to most 30 weights.

[barryware]

I recommended against zero (0) weight oils when that was being talked about.

I'm not an oil exert but I did learn a lot researching oil types for my kids crotch rocket.

There is a lot involved.. Piston velocity is a big factor when selecting an oil, not the only factor but in high rev engines (which we do not own), a big factor.

I don't quite understand the argument.. The oil cap says 5w-30. There is a tsb stating 5w-20 can be used. Either seems acceptable.

I use 5w-30 extended run synthetic and change it every 30,000 miles :eek: (just kidding), every 5K :smile:.

When you turn off the engine, do you guys think that everything drains dry? There is still plenty of oil left on the components to handle a start and run till the oil gets pumping which is pretty much immediately. A dry oil filter (fresh change) is another story.

My 2 cents...

I'm a PC :biggrin:

[1stToyota]

But your write up does not apply to this discussion.

You know why?

You are the one that is over-simplifying this issue. Why then do many UOA reports (Used Oil Analysis) show that using 20 weight oil does not in fact show more wear and tear?

Because Toyota has back-spec'd our cars for 20 weight oil, and if it would cause engine failure, then why would they invite millions of in-warranty repairs by publising the TSB, which states we all can use 20 weight in our cars.

And you know more then Toyota engineers? Why would Toyota willfully dirty their reputation and name by telling us to use 20 weight oil if it will cause enginen damage? Please.....

The only way what that what you write is true is if someone uses 20 weight on a engine THAT IS NOT SPEC'D FOR 20w oil.

This is not the case with our Yaris 1.5L engines.

You're not still using the 0w-20 that is not SPEC'D for our Yaris 1.5L, are you, just because you found that viscosity listed in that Toyota TSB that you found...if you read it clearly the 0w20 is for the 1.8L, not the Yaris 1.5L
The engine damage isn't a fair trade for a little extra mpg.

5w-20 yes, 0w-20 no :bonk:

[gid]

here's a concern , on T.S.B. ( www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=604802 ) for WARRANTY it states " NOT APPLICABLE TO WARRANTY " , does this mean TOYOTA is not responsible for the use of these oils in their engines ? Makes me wonder if they've done enough research and we are the lab rats . Many TOYOTA owners are having an issue with TOYOTA for the TACOMA frame that's rotting out and breaking . Especially for those who own the 2001 and 2002s , so my trust in TOYOTA is not 100% . Last , since the switch from 5w-30 > 5w-20 there's more engine noise , it's most noticeable at high speeds on the interstate . Seems like it could be the timing chain , :iono: . I'm considering to dump this fill of 5w-20 and go back to 5w-30 . The oil is PENNZOIL Platinum which is highly regarded at www.bobistheoilguy.com for U.O.A.s . If curious , www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=3&page=1 , there are other good U.O.A.s for the PLATINUM 5w-20 on other pages , so I doubt it's the oil .

[1stToyota]

here's a concern , on T.S.B. ( www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=604802 ) for WARRANTY it states " NOT APPLICABLE TO WARRANTY " , does this mean TOYOTA is not responsible for the use of these oils in their engines ? Makes me wonder if they've done enough research and we are the lab rats . Many TOYOTA owners are having an issue with TOYOTA for the TACOMA frame that's rotting out and breaking . Especially for those who own the 2001 and 2002s , so my trust in TOYOTA is not 100% . Last , since the switch from 5w-30 > 5w-20 there's more engine noise , it's most noticeable at high speeds on the interstate . Seems like it could be the timing chain , :iono: . I'm considering to dump this fill of 5w-20 and go back to 5w-30 . The oil is PENNZOIL Platinum which is highly regarded at www.bobistheoilguy.com for U.O.A.s . If curious , www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=3&page=1 , there are other good U.O.A.s for the PLATINUM 5w-20 on other pages , so I doubt it's the oil .

They say to use 5w-20 that will void the warranty? :eek:
And also in the very same *updated* Toyota TSB they cover themselves again when saying it's okay to use 5w-20, but see the attached *note*...

Quote: "The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model. Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner’s Manual for each vehicle."

:help:

[gid]

just dumped out the PLATINUM 5w-20 synthetic and went back to SHELL 5w-30 full synthetic . The oil poured out of the pan like it was water . There was no increase in mileage and the engine was noisier on interstate and when revving engine between gears . This is last time I'll likely take or listen to anyones advice on oils . Plan to drain the PLATINUM ( synthetic ) 5w-20 out of the '08 sedan tonight . Will be replacing with the SHELL full synthetic 5w-30 as well . I'm sticking with the owners manual and oil cap recommendations . This is for any vehicle present or future . So , not worth the so-called incease in mileage or better circulation for cold starts .

[RagnaCaT]

here's a concern , on T.S.B. ( www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=604802 ) for WARRANTY it states " NOT APPLICABLE TO WARRANTY " , does this mean TOYOTA is not responsible for the use of these oils in their engines ? Makes me wonder if they've done enough research and we are the lab rats . Many TOYOTA owners are having an issue with TOYOTA for the TACOMA frame that's rotting out and breaking . Especially for those who own the 2001 and 2002s , so my trust in TOYOTA is not 100% . Last , since the switch from 5w-30 > 5w-20 there's more engine noise , it's most noticeable at high speeds on the interstate . Seems like it could be the timing chain , :iono: . I'm considering to dump this fill of 5w-20 and go back to 5w-30 . The oil is PENNZOIL Platinum which is highly regarded at www.bobistheoilguy.com for U.O.A.s . If curious , www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=3&page=1 , there are other good U.O.A.s for the PLATINUM 5w-20 on other pages , so I doubt it's the oil .

They say to use 5w-20 that will void the warranty? :eek:
And also in the very same *updated* Toyota TSB they cover themselves again when saying it's okay to use 5w-20, but see the attached *note*...

Quote: "The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model. Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner’s Manual for each vehicle."

:help:

Nope what it mean is that you can't go to Toyota and have change it under warranty.:mad: Which means you pay for the change!:biggrin: Also that our series engine has to be in the TSB for 5w20 which is 1NZ

[1stToyota]

Nope what it mean is that you can't go to Toyota and have change it under warranty.:mad: Which means you pay for the change!:biggrin: Also that our series engine has to be in the TSB for 5w20 which is 1NZ

I don't know what free oil change claims has to do with this part of that Toyota TSB...

Quote: "The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model. Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner’s Manual for each vehicle."

Looks like it's pretty plain to me: "Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner’s Manual for each vehicle."

[RagnaCaT]

I don't know what free oil change claims has to do with this part of that Toyota TSB...

Quote: "The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model. Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner’s Manual for each vehicle."

Looks like it's pretty plain to me: "Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner’s Manual for each vehicle."

Exactly but in the TSB 5w20 is specified for the 1NZ so what there doing is "If you don't understand this just do what the cap says" That way Toyota never misguided you and washes their hands. So if you every have an issue remember TSB number or the Cap and your fine when your up against Toyota cuase they specified there options so both are OK

[dallas]

Wear metals in testing do go up for me with 5w20, best results with 0w30.

[1stToyota]

Exactly but in the TSB 5w20 is specified for the 1NZ so what there doing is "If you don't understand this just do what the cap says" That way Toyota never misguided you and washes their hands. So if you every have an issue remember TSB number or the Cap and your fine when your up against Toyota cuase they specified there options so both are OK

Both are okay, if you don't mind the extra noise with 5w-20. To me extra noise = extra wear.

[SilverGlow]

Who do you think you are talking to? You have logical argument? You make me laugh so hard I bust my kidney, little boy - getting too big for your pants, little boy.
You have a speck of knowledge but not enough to be anywhere near expert in field of tribology. BITOG are rank amatures and full of misinformation. If you think this is good site you have been fooled. Spend seven years at University maybe you have some more knowledge.

Little Girl, not once have you rebuttaled my posts with counter arguments.

Instead, you do what all people do who are ignorant, and who hate to admit stupidity, failure, and that's to character-assasinate the other person.

So go outside and drive the car your daddy or BF gave you, little girl...this site is for grownups.

[SilverGlow]

You're not still using the 0w-20 that is not SPEC'D for our Yaris 1.5L, are you, just because you found that viscosity listed in that Toyota TSB that you found...if you read it clearly the 0w20 is for the 1.8L, not the Yaris 1.5L
The engine damage isn't a fair trade for a little extra mpg.

5w-20 yes, 0w-20 no :bonk:

Read the web sites of Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum, and all the major brands that make 20 weight oil, and even read the labels on their bottles:

"0w-20 wieght oils can be used in any application that calls for 5W-20 weight".

At operational temperature, BOTH 0w-20 and 5w-20 provide the EXACT SAME viscosity. How come you don't understand this?

And where is the engine damage you write of when using 0w-20? MANY UOA's show there is no more wear then if 5w-20 were used.

It seems you have the habit of talking out your a$$. ;-)

[SilverGlow]

Both are okay, if you don't mind the extra noise with 5w-20. To me extra noise = extra wear.

Your opinions lack scientific bases, and you use "noise" to determine wear?

People that go to college and learn science know that actually using highly controlled and scientific tests, like a used oil analysis to ascertain wear is far more conclusive.

And if you use noise to decide, did you run your car in a sound studio, and monitor the noises with fined tuned computer monitors? Did you do before and after tests?

Did you graduate from highschool?

[SilverGlow]

Wear metals in testing do go up for me with 5w20, best results with 0w30.

Not true in every case, every climite, every season.

The wear numbers I get using 0w-20 versus 0w-30 are the same.

[gid]

everyone just use what you feel comfortable with . For me , 5w-20 :thumbdown: . 5w-30 :thumbsup: . No need for insults :wink: .

[TheSilkySmooth]

Not true in every case, every climite, every season.

The wear numbers I get using 0w-20 versus 0w-30 are the same.

Sorry SGlow, you are loosing your argument. If You like oil so much maybe you can be YarisWorld mascot? This might be Good:

[1stToyota]

Read the web sites of Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum, and all the major brands that make 20 weight oil, and even read the labels on their bottles:

"0w-20 wieght oils can be used in any application that calls for 5W-20 weight".

At operational temperature, BOTH 0w-20 and 5w-20 provide the EXACT SAME viscosity. How come you don't understand this?

And where is the engine damage you write of when using 0w-20? MANY UOA's show there is no more wear then if 5w-20 were used.

It seems you have the habit of talking out your a$$. ;-)


Luser, what part of the Toyota TSB do you not understand? It states do NOT use 0w-20 in the 1.5L :tongue:

And check these oil threads over the last day or two, I read today where a Yaris owner switched from 5w-30 to just 5w-20 and got back a UOA that had extra wear metals.

Don't know why you keep pretending that what applies to the XD 1.8L applies to your Yaris 1.5L when Toyota's TSB specifically forbids 0w-20 in the Yaris engine...yeah, southern Ca sees lots of really frigid mornings, better use that 0w-20 eventho' the TSB says not to. :wink:

[1stToyota]

Not true in every case, every climite, every season.

The wear numbers I get using 0w-20 versus 0w-30 are the same.

Don't dispute his UOA, please.:smile:

[1stToyota]

Your opinions lack scientific bases, and you use "noise" to determine wear?

People that go to college and learn science know that actually using highly controlled and scientific tests, like a used oil analysis to ascertain wear is far more conclusive.

And if you use noise to decide, did you run your car in a sound studio, and monitor the noises with fined tuned computer monitors? Did you do before and after tests?

Did you graduate from highschool?

Genius, you're the guy that's using 0w-20 in southern Ca, eventho' the Toyota TSB says do NOT use 0w-20 in our 1.5Ls, under ANY condition. See how well your warranty works for you after you inform the service department that you refused to follow the Toyota TSB guidelines, not to mention your owner's manual, provided that you have any future issues with your motor. :barf:

[marcus]

its getting hot in here.... id say use the oil you wanna use.. its ur car..u can use cooking oil for that matter..

[nemelek]

rebuttaled

Hey, SilverGlob. You are a whole lot smarter than me and perhaps the smartest member this forum has ever seen. Since you used the word you are the most qualified person I know to ask these questions. What is the meaning of the word rebuttaled?? What year did the Webster's dictionary add ed to the word rebuttal? I have heard of rebut, rebutted, rebuttal, rebutting, rebuttable, and rebutter but not rebuttaled. Your help would be greatly appreciated.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Silverglow is a troll and should be ignored like most ignoramuses causing trouble and being of no benefit to the forum.

[1stToyota]

Silverglow is a troll and should be ignored like most ignoramuses causing trouble and being of no benefit to the forum.

I think his advice on oil is bad. He throws "UOA" around a lot, maybe thinking it'll impress, but goes on to hand out advice about which oil to use, claiming that if 5w-20 is approved for use in our 1.5L, then "UOAs" will show that 0w-20 will work even better in our cars. Most people probably know better than to use a viscosity that isn't listed in the owner's manual or in the latest TSB, but SilverGlow doesn't seem to understand it yet.

[TheSilkySmooth]

I think his advice on oil is bad. He throws "UOA" around a lot, maybe thinking it'll impress, but goes on to hand out advice about which oil to use, claiming that if 5w-20 is approved for use in our 1.5L, then "UOAs" will show that 0w-20 will work even better in our cars. Most people probably know better than to use a viscosity that isn't listed in the owner's manual or in the latest TSB, but SilverGlow doesn't seem to understand it yet. I agree, re: UOA are not everything. You can still have a massive failure due to inadequate viscosity which would NOT show up on a uoa until the rod is snapped in half or the had bearing seized and spun. And any mechanical engineer or engine machinist worth their salt will tell you noise = wear all else being equal (diesel are another matter). Also engine are designed to retard timing in the presence engine noise over a specific threshold. So thence goes the fuel milage with the water weight oils. I have dsriven fords designed to run on 20W oil and they run fine. I have never seen and engin that will run on a 20W or 30W. The piston to wallclearances are incompatible given most new engines employ slipper-skirt short pistons.

[EasyDriver]

I would use a synthetic oil with 5w-20. Usually synthetic protects just as much as the next highest step up of organic oil while giving you the benifits of a lower viscocity such as increased gas milage.

My brothers toyota had same amount of engine noise at idle as mine. And when he put in amsoil high performance oil. He said his car never has idled smoother. All the sound went away. And it feels like the car has more power on the freeway. It could all be in his head but i can say it does idle very smooth and its quite as a mouse on idle. I am very anxiouse to do the same to my car soon as the engine is broken in in a few more miles.
I see that Advance auto parts has Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic motor oil. The price is good...but is the oil any good?

Has anyone tried this particular oil?

[yaris-me]

Hey, SilverGlob. You are a whole lot smarter than me and perhaps the smartest member this forum has ever seen. Since you used the word you are the most qualified person I know to ask these questions. What is the meaning of the word rebuttaled?? What year did the Webster's dictionary add ed to the word rebuttal? I have heard of rebut, rebutted, rebuttal, rebutting, rebuttable, and rebutter but not rebuttaled. Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Rebutter :bellyroll:

How about: rebutterable, rebuttering, or rebuttabler.

:laughabove:

[dallas]

Show me the Money, I mean results,LOL. :wink:

QUOTE=SilverGlow;167511]Not true in every case, every climite, every season.

The wear numbers I get using 0w-20 versus 0w-30 are the same.[/QUOTE]