Blitz S/C being installed this Saturday! [Archive] - Toyota Yaris Forums

LtNoogie

11-15-2008, 04:50 PM

From the Blitz manual:

Relieving fuel pressure on fuel pump. This prevents fuel from spraying out under pressure when you disconnect something later on that I have not read yet.

"(1) Locate and remove the fuse box panel under dash. (It is located under the dash on the driver’s side). Locate and remove fuel pump relay. It is the blue relay on the right hand side above the fuses"

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0667.jpg

Guess what? That blue relay isn't it! After an hour of searching for the relay and calling Toyota Service and Parts departments, THERE IS NO FREAKING FUEL PUMP RELAY.

While you have the dash torn apart, looking for the non-existent fuel pump relay, you can install your cabin air filter.:thumbup:

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0666.jpg

You have to depressurize the fuel system by disconnecting the connector on top of the fuel pump. That means you have to remove the rear seat.

So here's a tutorial on how to remove the rear seats on a 60/40 split seat in a Liftback.

Remove the plastic cover, exposing the two Torx bolts. You need a special Torx socket set. Remove the bolts. A hammer is recommended because the bolts are on tight.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0656.jpg

Lift up the front of the seat bottom to reveal two more bolts that hold the front of the seat rail to the floor. Remove them.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0657.jpg

Slide the seat forward, revealing the two rear Torx bolts on the seat bracket. Remove them.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0658.jpg

Once you have removed the seat, that's when you realize the fuel pump connector is under the 60% side. :cry::cry::cry:

More to follow

LtNoogie

11-15-2008, 04:59 PM

Now, remove the 60% side of the rear seat. You can save yourselves some time by not removing the 40% side. But if you have done both, this is a good time to install a roll cage.:biggrin:

Remove the plastic covers hiding three Torx bolts in the front of the 60% section. Remove the bolts.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0659.jpg

Lift up the seat bottom to reveal the two Torx bolts holding down the seat bracket. Remove those bolts.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0661.jpg

Remove the two Torx bolts holding down the rear of seat brackets. No picture.

Lick bloodied knuckle until vampire bats stop circling.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0662.jpg

Lift carpet flap, and fuel tank cover to reveal wires going into a connector at the top of the tank. Remove this connector.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0663.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0664.jpg

At this point, start the car. The engine will die within seconds because the fuel pump has been disabled and there is no more pressure in the fuel lines.

Go home, have a beer, and plan to start again tomorrow.

LtNoogie

11-15-2008, 05:11 PM

Lmao i picture a crappy drawing from a 3 year old

The manual that comes in the box is in Japanese! It's a good thing Garm sent me one written in Engrish.

SIPNGAS

11-15-2008, 05:24 PM

I'm so sorry it didn't work out today. Hopefully tomorrow...

it's because you don't have the cool TRD sticker, you know. ;o)

LtNoogie

11-15-2008, 05:27 PM

Yeah, tomorrow, the scary work starts. Once the engine pieces come off, there's no more driving it until she's put back together again.

Looks like I may be driving the Jeep for a couple of days.

cali yaris

11-15-2008, 10:08 PM

You'll get through it, I have faith in the NOOGIE !!

staypuft

11-15-2008, 10:18 PM

i'm so wanting to buy a blitz supercharger but i'm just not willing to spend $3400usd on it. I remember when there was a guy selling one used on here for like $2200usd.. in retrospect i wish i would have jumped on that =/

that was 2nd hand w/o warranty, garms got brand spanking new with 1 year warranty from blitz. i didnt do the fuel pressure thing, no problems with fuel spray, it all came out the fuel rail anyway when doing that pita bolt

PETERPOOP

11-16-2008, 06:15 PM

done? :)

LtNoogie

11-16-2008, 08:26 PM

I just pulled the efi fuse in the fuse box under the hood, I still had a small amount of fuel come out of the injector area though. I spent a bunch of time looking for that same relay also. There is also something about an airbag sensor in the engine compartment you can forget about that one also. I will be on here most of the day today, if you have any problems or questions just pm me and I will try to help you out as much as I can.

I've PM'd you. We are trying to put the alternator back on now and those B spacers are really confusing. Thanks

SIPNGAS

11-16-2008, 09:18 PM

Sounds like this installation is QUITE the undertaking....

cali yaris

11-16-2008, 09:18 PM

Are Camelll's installation pics still available? He showed where those spacers go in those pics.

PETERPOOP

11-16-2008, 10:05 PM

What do you care? according to you the supercharger is a waste of money!

Actually i stated a S/C in a SEDAN is a waste of money. :bellyroll:

let's see those videos noogie! muahaha

LtNoogie

11-16-2008, 11:55 PM

I pm'd you LTNoogie. One of those spacers goes at the top of the bracket and the other one goes on the bottom of the bracket. Where the alternator bracket bolts up to the engine block. Sorry I was busy earlier.

Thanks, Mike. I'll post pictures later this evening. I ended up not using one of the B spacers. I'll try to explain with the photos. I will definitely give you a call as we proceed further.

Long

LtNoogie

11-16-2008, 11:57 PM

done? :)

It's going slow. My brother and I are trying to decypher the grainy black and white pictures. Taking off the alternator is as hard has others have complained when trying to install the NST pulleys. Luckily I don't have to reuse the OEM bottom bolt because we stripped the head of the bolt trying to loosen it. Pictures will be posted in an hour or so.

staypuft

11-17-2008, 12:41 AM

wow, so you havent tackled the dreaded bolt behind the fuel rail yet. be prepared to start cursing alot lol, keep us updated

LtNoogie

11-17-2008, 12:43 AM

Now that I know how to disable the fuel pump, we do so and the engine dies after a few seconds of running.

Take off the engine cover. Most of you have seen what that looks like.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0655.jpg

Thanks to Camell, I do not waste time looking for the non-existent air bag sensor. Everything else proceeding OK so far. The CAI comes off, revealing the throttle body.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/P1020315.jpg

After struggling with a hard-to-reach clamp on the vacuum line to the intake manifold, the manifold comes off. No problems at all with the middle manifold bolt.

We took the dipstick off after the manifold came off. This is out of order from the instructions but much easier to do in this order.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/P1020316.jpg

Taking the alternator off was a bitch, especially the bottom bolt that it pivots on. We had a four foot breaker bar which only helped to strip the head of the bolt a little. Lot's of penetrating oil and a half hour later, the bolt comes out and the alternator comes out with it. Part of the difficulty was making sure we did not damage the NST water pump pulley which is very near where the wrench has to be to remove the bolt.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/P1020317.jpg

More blood and the difficult alternator bolt.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/P1020319.jpg

The new alternator bracket goes on. See Spacer A and Spacer B locations.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/P1020320-1.jpg

Another view of the new alternator bracket. The alternator will be installed upside down from the factory position.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/P1020321.jpg

The alternator goes on first with Spacer B where the installation manual says but the alternator is too far offset from the rest of the pulleys.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/P1020324-1.jpg

Oh yeah, others have mentioned this. The bolts all come in one bag. It is up to you to figure out which bolt is the right one to use.

Finally, we decide to not use the second Spacer B and the alternator goes on and all of the pulleys are parallel to each other and are lined up.

Wifey calls and my brother has to leave for the evening. Tomorrow, the good stuff goes on. Things are tight around the alternator if you have factory air conditioning. Extra piping and brackets that are not there in the installation manual.

LtNoogie

11-17-2008, 12:55 AM

A couple of times, especially with the alternator, it took four hands to work everything. My hat goes off to anyone who did this by themselves.

cali yaris

11-17-2008, 01:04 AM

nice progress, and I bow before thee for doing it yourself. :bow: <-- see? that's me bowing

LtNoogie

11-17-2008, 01:16 AM

Thanks Garm. It's fun working on a car again. The last car I tore apart to work on was my 1973 Chevy Vega.

I would not recommend this to someone who does not have a second means of transportation.

LtNoogie

11-17-2008, 01:37 AM

The A spacer was 7mm like the picture showed. The two B spacers were 4mm each. I'm kinda leery too but everything is perfectly lined up. We tried another configuration and the alternator pulley was at an angle with the others.

TEHxFALLEN V1.2

11-17-2008, 02:01 AM

You're doing it man!! I cannot wait until you're done with this!

Doc Zaius

11-17-2008, 02:25 PM

LtNoogie... congrats on the purchase, and on tackling the install yourself. That's what I did... it was long and tough, but feels good getting it done yourself.

Anyhow, glad you found out about the fuel pressure release... I posted in echo_hrs' old thread about that. You can find the instruction on how to do it on the first page of the Fuel section of the Yaris Factory Manual we have here on the site.

The spacers... weird... I'll double-check mine. I followed the instructions, and everything lined up properly. I'm thinking you have spacer B on either the wrong side of the alternator bracket, or it's on the wrong bolt (maybe should be on the lower bolt?).

Oh yeah, the a/c lines... mine were REALLY in the way. There is a plastic clamp holding one of them (bottom-center of your last picture on Page 3)... if you take that off, it allows you to pull them forward a fair bit... maybe an inch. I took that off, pulled them forward, and then used a bunch of big zap-straps to keep the line pulled forward and left (away from the engine). One of the bolts on the a/c line is still sticking out pretty close to the belt, and I have yet to dremel it down.

Oh yeah, the belt. If you haven't bought it yet, you need to buy a new 66" belt b/c the one that comes with the kit is too loose. But don't buy the 6-rib belt... get an 8-rib belt, and then you can simply cut it in half, and have two belts, instead of just one 4-rib belt and throwing out two ribs.

Other upcoming advice... make sure you lightly grease the fuel injector o-rings (I used WD-40... not great, but ok) when you're trying to put the fuel rail back on... that's a big one for sure... makes putting them on much easier and seats them properly. If you haven't taken the long stud bolts off the plastic manifold yet, I had to use really big vice grips to do it (with some de-seizing spray)... the little Torx heads just sheared off.

Uh... that's all I can think of for now. Good luck, and keep plugging away! My car was down for almost 3 weeks.

cali yaris

11-17-2008, 02:48 PM

Not any more; the correct 4-rib belt is now supplied with the kits I have.

Oh yeah, the belt. If you haven't bought it yet, you need to buy a new 66" belt b/c the one that comes with the kit is too loose. But don't buy the 6-rib belt... get an 8" belt, and then you can simply cut it in half, and have two belts, instead of just one 4-rib belt and throwing out two ribs.

Doc Zaius

11-17-2008, 03:01 PM

Not any more; the correct 4-rib belt is now supplied with the kits I have.

COOL! :thumbsup:

cali yaris

11-17-2008, 03:38 PM

anyone want a hood deflector? :rolleyes:

(sorry, couldn't help it)

TheRealEnth

11-17-2008, 04:04 PM

advertising wherever i go!!!!! NOOOOOOO

LtNoogie

11-17-2008, 04:36 PM

anyone want a hood deflector? :rolleyes:

(sorry, couldn't help it)

I was hoping that the S/C would have to stick out through the hood like the old muscle cars but then it would be facing sideways. Kinda too weird that way.

Garm, we'll discuss hoods later. I need to PM you later about some AutoMeter gauges.

LtNoogie

11-17-2008, 04:38 PM

LtNoogie... congrats on the purchase, and on tackling the install yourself. That's what I did... it was long and tough, but feels good getting it done yourself.

Uh... that's all I can think of for now. Good luck, and keep plugging away! My car was down for almost 3 weeks.

Doc, thanks for all the pointers. All this time, I thought you were the guy who did his install in 7 hours! I am hoping to get the little car running by late Wednesday night.

I am feeling the pressure to get a video for PETERPOOP.

cali yaris

11-17-2008, 04:56 PM

the hood deflector comment was for Doc Zaius... an inside joke, and a bad one.. :frown:

TheRealEnth

11-17-2008, 07:51 PM

it was funny nonetheless =p

id3379

11-18-2008, 12:58 AM

good job so far dude, watch out for them vampire bats!

LtNoogie

11-18-2008, 03:42 AM

First picture is of the alternator after installing it for the Nth time. The pulleys line up parallel and no Spacer B was needed on this car.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0672.jpg

The new intake manifold is bolted to the compressor.:biggrin:

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0673.jpg

The fuel rail comes off with no problems and no gasoline squirting.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0675.jpg

We tried fit checking the manifold/blower onto the head but encountered interference at this round sensor thing.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0676.jpg

It turns out that Blitz left too much material when they cast the intake manifold and it was hitting the sensor thing. The blue line shows the aluminum that goes beyond the manifold gasket.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0677.jpg

Nothing that a good filing can't take care of!

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0678.jpg

This is after filing off the excess aluminum. My younger brother is smarter and braver than I am when it comes to cars.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0681.jpg

We find that we are hitting the alternator when trying to install the manifold/blower. The new alternator bracket was installed wrong! After moving the new alternator bracket, there is no more interference from that area.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0683.jpg

The new alternator position is so close to one of the metal air conditioning lines that I am going to wear a hole in it and lose all my freon. I need to put a rubber hose or something on that metal line to protect it from the alternator. When the engine is rev'd, the torque will pitch the engine forward and the alternator will hit the metal air conditioning line.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0684.jpg

Ok, one last look over before the manifold/blower goes on. The dipstick tube gets reinstalled 180 out.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0686.jpg

Tada! The manifold/blower is on... almost. We could not get it mounted with the left bottom manifold bolt in-place. It's almost impossible to line up the five holes with the five studs/bolts.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0687.jpg

We have to figure out how to do this. We tried to screw the last manifold bolt on after the manifold was on the head but it would not go. That plus I dropped a socket into the engine compartment so we had to waste 10 minutes fishing it out.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0688.jpg

Lastly, I am short one intake manifold nut so tomorrow is a day off from the install while I go to Toyota to buy a nut and maybe another manifold bolt.

eTiMaGo

11-18-2008, 09:17 AM

wow, I must applaud you for the awesome step-by-step installation updates, I think it will really help those who are considering one but not sure exactly what is involved in the installations. So, major kudos :smile:
Can't wait to see this lil beast running!

LtNoogie

11-18-2008, 10:34 AM

Got it. Thanks! We were contemplating sawing off the bolt to make it shorter and other crazy workarounds. Mike, I almost called you last night but it would have been past 11:00 your time so we mounted and unmounted the manifold/blower three times before calling it quits.

I am still missing one manifold nut so I still have to visit the dealer. So today I give my brother the evening off to play with his 1-month old baby. Hopefully, my sister-in-law won't be as mad.:smile:

LtNoogie

11-18-2008, 01:14 PM

From some of the previous posts, I'm dreading the wiring more than the mechanical stuff.

Doc Zaius

11-18-2008, 06:26 PM

LtNoogie... glad you got the alternator on the right hole. The one you had it in before (and the one just next to it) get attached to the blower itself.

For your a/c line issue, do what I suggested in my last post... mine was the same way. And yeah, do it now before you get the blower completely mounted and there's no room. Something to do on your day off.

And that sensor post thing on the left side of the engine block (where it was hitting the manifold)... I totally don't remember that thing on my setup. Is that new for 2008?

And finally electrical... I was most concerned about that too... procrastinated on it the most. But honestly, once you get the ECU off the firewall, some of the wiring loom cut away to expose the wires, and the little covers off the wiring harness sockets (so you can see which wire goes into which pin), it goes pretty quickly... doing the first crimp is scary... after that, it's quick. Just make sure you don't get your wires all tangled up like I did, and make sure the new connectors you buy are decent and support 18-20ga wire (the ones coming from the activation switch are pretty damn small!)

That's it for now. Keep those pics and posts coming! :biggrin:

LtNoogie

11-18-2008, 06:29 PM

Doc, thanks for the tips.

How's the car driving? We haven't heard much about it other than you said it goes "wahhh".

LtNoogie

11-18-2008, 06:31 PM

And finally electrical... I was most concerned about that too... procrastinated on it the most. But honestly, once you get the ECU off the firewall, some of the wiring loom cut away to expose the wires, and the little covers off the wiring harness sockets (so you can see which wire goes into which pin), it goes pretty quickly... doing the first crimp is scary... after that, it's quick. Just make sure you don't get your wires all tangled up like I did, and make sure the new connectors you buy are decent and support 18-20ga wire (the ones coming from the activation switch are pretty damn small!)

Wow, now you've made it sound real scary. I'm going back to stock.

Doc Zaius

11-19-2008, 02:18 PM

Don't be scared! Just take your time and double-check things. And yeah, a 2nd pair of hands is almost required for most of this install!

How's the car driving? We haven't heard much about it other than you said it goes "wahhh".

Well, the car is driving great. I keep the switch (which I still haven't installed yet) set to "high". That way, the power comes on nice and smooth. For a while it was set to "medium", and you'd get that huge jerk of power when it switched on. Not smooth. I'm thinking I might leave it turned off for the winter... don't really need boosted performance in the snow. Plus, I could run regular gas too.

But yeah, the only big issue that I'm a concerned about right now is that with the cold weather, the car is getting really hard to start. I mean, I used to just twist the key, start would crank maybe twice, and it would go. In the winter, it was sometimes 3-4 times. Now (we're still only in November!) and the car cranks for about 3 seconds before it catches!! I'm wondering if I'm losing fuel pressure somewhere and the fuel rail has to re-pressurize? Or if it's the fact that there's extra stuff on the accessory belt (although, it should be free-spinning when I'm starting).

Anybody else with the Blitz having engine starting problems now that it's getting colder? I'm really concerned that the car is not going to start at all once it's actually COLD.

LtNoogie

11-19-2008, 09:39 PM

and you'd get that huge jerk of power when it switched on.

I cannot wait to feel that!:drool:

My car has always been slow to start during winter. I have not had any trouble starting it yet this year, but the low temps have only been down in the 30's.

Cold, as defined here in Southern California, is around 45. Any colder than that, I switch to the Jeep and I put it in 4-wheel drive mode.:laugh:

SIPNGAS

11-19-2008, 10:04 PM

Spoiled California people! :bellyroll:

It was 20 when I went to work this morning...:rolleyes:

LtNoogie

11-19-2008, 10:17 PM

Not spoiled. Delicate.

staypuft

11-19-2008, 10:33 PM

Don't be scared! Just take your time and double-check things. And yeah, a 2nd pair of hands is almost required for most of this install!

Well, the car is driving great. I keep the switch (which I still haven't installed yet) set to "high". That way, the power comes on nice and smooth. For a while it was set to "medium", and you'd get that huge jerk of power when it switched on. Not smooth. I'm thinking I might leave it turned off for the winter... don't really need boosted performance in the snow. Plus, I could run regular gas too.

But yeah, the only big issue that I'm a concerned about right now is that with the cold weather, the car is getting really hard to start. I mean, I used to just twist the key, start would crank maybe twice, and it would go. In the winter, it was sometimes 3-4 times. Now (we're still only in November!) and the car cranks for about 3 seconds before it catches!! I'm wondering if I'm losing fuel pressure somewhere and the fuel rail has to re-pressurize? Or if it's the fact that there's extra stuff on the accessory belt (although, it should be free-spinning when I'm starting).

Anybody else with the Blitz having engine starting problems now that it's getting colder? I'm really concerned that the car is not going to start at all once it's actually COLD.

i leave mine on medium, and it is possible to get it smooth, it all depends on how you put pressure on the pedal, i had no problems starting her up in the cold so far, but its only been in the 30's, i installed the new perrin catch can and it doesnt get hot whatsoever as the greddy can does. and runs smoother imo with it installed, maybe camelll can chime in on this. i guess it doesnt help that we
have to change to colder plugs either

LtNoogie

11-20-2008, 02:55 AM

Tonight started out Ok but spiraled downhill until it became a disaster. Pictures will posted shortly.:frown:

PETERPOOP

11-20-2008, 03:09 AM

are you lying

LtNoogie

11-20-2008, 04:55 AM

The manifold/blower slips onto the three studs, thanks to Camell for the tip. The two outside Torx tip bolts are replaced with the hex head bolts.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0696.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0697.jpg

The fuel rail gets wiggled loose until the injectors can be popped out to make room to install and tighten the top manifold nuts. Gasoline drips onto the valve cover and we breathe fumes for the next half hour.

The injectors are lying willy-nilly.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/fuelrailoff.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/topmanifoldbolts.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0693.jpg

DO NOT TIGHTEN THE MANIFOLD NUTS AND BOLTS YET!

There are two bolts that need to attach the pulley side of the blower to the alternator bracket. I did not take a picture so here is one from the installation manual.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/underblowerbolts.jpg

Since I had already tightened the five manifold nuts and bolts (f**k-up #1), there was no way for the other bolts to line up. BTW, we could not find those two bolts in the packages. Luckily, last night I bought a box of metric hardware at Pep Boys for $9.99. That came in very handy.

We install two bolts from the opposite side as the instructions said to kinda work their way and line up the holes.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0698.jpg

I start cranking away at one of the bolts, not paying attention. (f**k-up #2). Instead of causing the alternator bracket to line up, the bolt pushes the top of the alternator bracket to towards the fender. I've bent the damn thing and the alternator is now crooked!:eek:

I don't have a picture of the messed up situation. We carefully send the second bolt through the second hole and miraculously, it makes it through both holes. I attach a nut and start tightening which pulles the alternator bracket back in line. The Moron dodges a bullet.

The picture shows the alternator bracket firmly attached to blower and there is no gap. Earlier, there was a 1/4 inch gap which was all alternator bracket being bent towards the fender.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0702.jpg

Ok, back when I attached the blower to the intake manifold, I did not pay attention to the hint below so now I have no place to attach my dipstick tube bracket. My brother will fab something for the dipstick tube to attach to so that it doesn't pop out and fall off. (f**k-up #3 but done earlier)

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/Hint.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/dipstickbracket.jpg

The compressor inlet pipe goes on and it nows looks like a supercharger! Time to attach the vacuum lines to the inlet pipe.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/inletpipe.jpg

I think others have mentioned it but one of the original vacuum lines is too short to go to its inlet pipe nipple. First picture show the vacuum line before the teardown. Second picture shows where it needs to go.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/tooshort.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/tooshort2.jpg

So close to attaching the throttle body and the CAI! Now I have to go to Pep Boys tomorrow to buy some vacuum line.:mad:

Since we can't close her up, we start to route the belt through the maze of pulleys. It's now really tight in that area and it takes two of use to snake through its path.

DISASTER! The metal A/C lines that we were afraid of before get in the way of the belt! I think Doc had problems with his A/C lines too.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/ACinterference.jpg

The only thing we can figure out is to try to reach into the impossibly tight spaces to remove a screw holding a bracket that holds the A/C line. We might be able to yank the lines out of the way and tie them down somehow with nylon straps.

While backing out one of the screws, I realize that the screw is very long and now I can't get my ratcheting box end wrench off the head because I am too close to the NST water pump pulley. It's one of those ratchets that you have to turn around to tighten, so any movement I make keeps backing out the screw. I now have a freaking tool stuck down there. I did not know whether to laugh or to cry.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0706.jpg

My brother will try to buy some big ass needle nose pliers tomorrow to try to turn the srew back in until the wrench can come free. If that doesn't work, he may have to run a hacksaw blade down there and hope to cut the screw. Did I mention it is really tight down there?

We have no idea what to do next because you cannot get your hand in there. Tomorrow's another day.

LtNoogie

11-20-2008, 10:09 AM

That is what I thought........... Until that damn second B spacer. It is alot easier the second time as you know what to expect and have all the tools.

I cannot imagine what it was like taking it apart and putting it together a second time just for that Spacer B but I know that there was no other way for you. You should advertise yourself as a qualified Blitz installer in the Midwest.:thumbup:

The mechanics around here wanted $950 to do the install. That almost sounds cheap by now.

LtNoogie

11-20-2008, 10:22 AM

kurokoma-kun and whooppee777, are you guys taking notes?

Your turns are coming up next and I don't want to have come out there to get you out of trouble. Especially if you repeat the same f**k-up I did.

:smile:

LtNoogie

11-20-2008, 10:24 AM

1,369 views so far! I am grateful that there is so much interest.

It must be like watching a train wreck in slow motion. LOL

LtNoogie

11-20-2008, 10:40 AM

It's funny how you and I can laugh about stuff like the non-existent fuel pump relay now that it's past us. That was the first day and the first step of the install and I'm saying to myself WTF!

I think all the views are from the same 10 people. 5 of them going :eek: ... "I'm not doing a supercharger". The other 5 like yourself going "oh yeah, I forgot about that nighmarish step. Good times." :biggrin:

LtNoogie

11-20-2008, 10:58 AM

No problem. How did that center nut tighten up? That thing gave me a massive headache until I went out and bought a ratcheting swivel box end wrench.

I used an open-end wrench. The head of the ratching box end was too big. The nut tightened up as easily as the other two on top.

I did not put those bolts in, I did the same thing and when I got done I realized that I missed that step. I tried but the holes did not line up. I figured that the alternator bracket and the compressor are both attached to the engine block and move together anyways and there is no gap in mine either. I might buy some smaller bolts someday and do what you did, but I am not having any problems after I put that second B spacer in.

I am guessing that those bolts keep the top of the alternator bracket from vibrating from side to side. Bolting it to the rigidly mounted blower makes sure that you don't get that movement. Anyhow, I have one bolt in there now. The second hole is stripped and we could not start a tap through it.

That sucks, I did not have as much trouble with my ac lines, I just pushed mine out of the way and that was that, maybe the sedan has a little more room in the engine compartment.

A/C lines are gonna kill me in the end.

PETERPOOP

11-20-2008, 01:35 PM

stay strong

cali yaris

11-20-2008, 01:46 PM

well, it may read like mostly bad news to some, and mostly good news to others, because you got it done and you're closer to finishing.

So far, you've resolved every problem you encountered, so I have faith in the big finish!

I'm taking you out for a nice sushi dinner when you're done -- you can drive, or course. :biggrin:

Doc Zaius

11-20-2008, 01:51 PM

I used an open-end wrench. The head of the ratching box end was too big. The nut tightened up as easily as the other two on top.

Are you serious?! Wow... lucky guy! I ended up getting my girlfriend (with small hands) to get that nut on the bolt, and get the threading started.

A/C lines are gonna kill me in the end.

What'd I tell you, man? Getting in there now to fix the A/C lines is gonna be wicked hard.

But yeah, this has been like a trip down memory lane. I remember about the dipstick bracket... I managed to get a shorty 14mm (I think?) wrench under there and loosen it up so I could attach it. Bummer about bending the bracket... I'm glad it straightened out! And remember to put a little lubricating fluid on the O-rings when you pop the rail back on the injectors. My friendly neighbourhood Toyota tech told me to always use something when fiddling with the injectors, otherwise the rings might pinch and not seal properly.

Agreeing with camelll, it's definitely not as hard to undo and redo the 2nd time. For your A/C lines (and those two bolts) (AND the dipstick), it might be easier to take the 'charger back off, fix everything, and then put it back on. Seriously. I know it sucks! :cry: But those lines are really in the way!

And for the ECU, it's only held to the firewall by three 10mm nuts & bolts... getting it off is pretty easy. The two big connectors on top of it, the left one (the bigger) won't clear the cowling... so either you take off the whole cowling like camelll did, or pop the ECU off the firewall, undo the connectors, and put the ECU on a table while you do your splicing. Either way...

We all had our struggles putting this thing on. I didn't tighten my stud bolts on the 'charger as much as I wanted, and then ended up stripping a nut (so I'll never get it off). Keep going! Good luck!!

Oh, and thanks for the responses guys about your cars starting fine in the cold weather. It's been happening here even when it's only in the 40s. So maybe I did something wrong. I'll have to pop the hood and have my girlfriend start it while I try to see if everything is ok. Hmmmm!

LtNoogie

11-20-2008, 02:42 PM

I'm taking you out for a nice sushi dinner when you're done -- you can drive, or course. :biggrin:

No, YOU can drive. I'll be behind you in MY car as you tow it with my shiny new tow hook.:smile:

Nexus1155

11-20-2008, 05:06 PM

I'll be behind you in MY car as you tow it with my shiny new tow hook

A yaris towing a yaris, that will be a hoot to see...the car explode from its insides out! :P

cali yaris

11-20-2008, 06:11 PM

hmmm, this could be arranged :biggrin:

LtNoogie

11-20-2008, 07:24 PM

A yaris towing a yaris, that will be a hoot to see...the car explode from its insides out! :P

I would pick up the parts that dropped out of his car and try to re-sell them on here.:smile:

Nexus1155

11-20-2008, 07:35 PM

hahah you and me both, but everyone is in Cali for some reason... got to bring this extravaganza down here

LtNoogie

11-21-2008, 04:00 AM

Tonight we took it kinda easy. I still had the combination wrench stuck on a bolt from last night. My brother went to Harbor Freight to buy some really long locking pliers and a magnetic picker upper while I went to Pep Boys to buy a two-foot gripper. I also picked up one foot of vacuum hose.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0707.jpg

We were able to free the tool and eventually get the screw completely out of the very tight space.:thumbup:

We are still having problems with the interference that the metal A/C lines are causing with the new belt. There's a compression fitting block which is so close to the belt that the belt will tear itself apart on it when the engine rocks front to rear.

We spent an hour pulling and pushing on the entire A/C line but could not get it to move very far from the belt path. At this time, I am willing to find an auto air conditioning shop to see if they can replace the metal lines with flexible lines and reroute them away from the pulleys and the belt. Tomorrow I'll see if my mechanic can recommend someone.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0708-1.jpg

Since there was very little we could do there, I undid the bolt that held the L bracket between the manifold and the blower. This was done by feel because the L bracket is now underneath and out of site. The new hinged inspection mirror I bought at Pep Boys was useful here.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0673-1.jpg

With the bolt removed, I was able to install the dipstick tube support bracket and then bolt that bracket to the one attached to the dipstick tube. Yeah!!! One minor victory.:smile:

It would have been much easier to have installed the dipstick tube support bracket when the manifold/blower was still on the bench.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0711-1.jpg

The vacuum hoses go onto the intake tube easy, now that I have the right length.

The throttle body goes onto the intake tube.

The water hose support goes onto the throttle body.

The CAI attaches to the throttle body and a few more hoses connect to the CAI.

And voila, the roadside of the motor is back together. It looks pretty and ready to run if you ignore the fact that the belt still isn't on.

Here are a few views of the engine bay with the supercharger installed.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0712.jpg

Isn't that purdy?

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0713.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0714.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0715.jpg

The supercharger sits so high that the stock engine cover will not fit anymore. We will have to cut the engine cover so that it will fit flat on top of the valve cover. There are only two studs where I can fasten it down with the original nuts.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0716-1.jpg

Here is a before shot for comparison. There used to be four studs that held the engine cover down.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0655-2.jpg

See how much clearance there is between the altenator pulley and the A/C lines when the alternator is in its stock position. Once you flip it upside down and move it lower, that's when you get into trouble. Make sure you move all your A/C lines right after you removed the alternator while you still have plenty of room to work. Loosen the screw on the clamp and the A/C line will slide around when you push or pull on it.

I don't know when we will do the electrical installation. I really need to take care of the A/C line interference first so I can install the belt.

It certainly looks the the supercharger pictures that others have posted but it's not running yet. Perhaps by Monday.

Malaya1221

11-21-2008, 04:19 AM

forget the engine cover....the blower looks sexy, great job and have fun!:thumbsup:

LtNoogie

11-21-2008, 04:23 AM

Thanks, Malaya. Someone said that the engine cover prevents the heat from the engine from discoloring your hood right overhead that spot.

staypuft

11-21-2008, 08:59 AM

I am certain either the 07's or the sedan has more room in the engine bay.

This could be very important info LTNOOGIE: I don't know if this true or not but I was warned by yarisdarkness not to use the TRD CAI with the blitz as it has a bypass valve that can be sucked in! I did not know that you had the trd till the last set pics you just posted. Maybe garm can contact blitz to verify this information. Yarisdarkness is a authorized blitz dealer so I would think this info is very accurate.

i thought i read somewhere that 2 pc intakes are not recommended for this application. hey mike good thing we got the single piece fujita cai.

i'll take a pic of my a/c line near the compressor and see what went wrong.

cali yaris

11-21-2008, 10:28 AM

As soon as I saw the CAI I also questoned it. I will also try to get an answer about that for you today.

LtNoogie

11-21-2008, 10:30 AM

This could be very important info LTNOOGIE: I don't know if this true or not but I was warned by yarisdarkness not to use the TRD CAI with the blitz as it has a bypass valve that can be sucked in! I did not know that you had the trd till the last set pics you just posted. Maybe garm can contact blitz to verify this information. Yarisdarkness is a authorized blitz dealer so I would think this info is very accurate.

Wow, ok. I know that Garm checks this thread. I still have my stock airbox but I may have to switch to a one-piece CAI like you guys.

Anyone else with authoratative info on this?

LtNoogie

11-21-2008, 05:10 PM

Garm dropped by today to look at the S/C project. While I was explaining how I was having new A/C lines fabbed to clear the belt, he reached in and yanked the A/C line out of the way.:eek:

I should have had my Wheaties that day.:frown:

Number one: I've already admitted to being a moron in an earlier post.

Number two: We were trying to pull the line forward. He pulled it sideways.

I owe him a sushi lunch.

cali yaris

11-21-2008, 05:55 PM

aw shucks... :flex:

LtNoogie

11-21-2008, 07:47 PM

Garm, can you do the electrical for me?:rolleyes:

LtNoogie

11-21-2008, 09:45 PM

My brother wants the night off so no updates tonight. Thanks for checking in.

cali yaris

11-22-2008, 12:37 AM

I'm better at beating stuff up than finessing wires. Sorry!

No updates tonight? What am I supposed to do instead of watch this thread?

No No No !!

LtNoogie

11-22-2008, 12:41 PM

Did you guys find the belt to be too long or too short? We got the belt on and the tensioner went to the bottom of the slot. I'm going to get a shorter belt.

SIPNGAS

11-22-2008, 12:43 PM

I love this thread.:biggrin:

whooppee777

11-22-2008, 01:20 PM

how long till the wiring is done?

PETERPOOP

11-22-2008, 01:23 PM

i think i read that the belt was too long on other installs, but i swear cali yaris said the new kits come with a belt that fits? don't quote me.

LtNoogie

11-22-2008, 01:46 PM

Now that I know how to read the numbers on belts, my kit came with a 4-rib 69" belt. We went to three auto parts stores before we found an 8-rib 66" belt. We're about to start splitting it into two 4-rib belts.

I should have read Doc's and Camell's posts closer.

LtNoogie

11-22-2008, 03:28 PM

Belt is on. ECU is off. Studying the ECU harness to make sure we do this right.

LtNoogie

11-22-2008, 03:32 PM

Before I start on the ECU wiring, I need some advice on the wiring from those who have done it. My brother says that crimping is bad and he prefers to cut wire, solder, and shrink wrap.

Is this where Doc and EchoHrs had much of their problems?

cali yaris

11-22-2008, 03:35 PM

cut/wire/solder and shrink wrap is always superior to crimping. Always.

Dunno about the belt, I was told they were replaced. :iono:

LtNoogie

11-22-2008, 03:44 PM

Garm, they kinda told you right.

The kit came with a 1695 mm belt which converts to 66.7 inches which for some reason bottomed out the tensioner.

I bought a 8PK1675 belt, which I split. 1675 mm converts to 65.9 inches. The tensioner is near the top of the bracket but it was tight going to slip it over the tension pulley.

We looked online at www.upcbelt.com and there is a 4PK1685 which would be ideal. Probably have to buy it online. 1685 mm equals 66.3 inches which should put the tension pulley near the middle. We're splitting hairs now.

LtNoogie

11-22-2008, 03:51 PM

Regular life calls and we have to stop for the day. The ladies are impatient to do other stuff.

We will go get a soldering iron and shrink tubing. I expect that we will wrap this up tomorrow morning or Monday night at the latest.

I don't have a bunch of pictures but will post when I get home.

Don't know how I'll handle the the CAI yet but we are close, people!

cali yaris

11-22-2008, 03:54 PM

Thank you for the regular updates. You can post pictures of the ladies anytime now, that will hold us over until your next report... :eek:

SIPNGAS

11-22-2008, 05:00 PM

Awe! She's beautiful!

LtNoogie

11-22-2008, 06:39 PM

First picture is of the A/C lines that have been pulled out of the way of the belt. The A/C lines have been temporarily tied to the sheet metal with a nylon strap. We'll get a metal hose clamp to make it more secure.

At this time, we did not know that the belt was too long so it is just laying loose on the S/C pulley in this picture.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0717.jpg

After spending an hour or more looking for the right length fan belt, it finally goes on. You need a 66" belt as others have posted before. The robots at the parts counters will always ask you "What car is this for?" so you have to tell them that is a special application like a racing go-cart. Otherwise they will look up the stock belt for you.

It still took four hands and three attampts to get the belt onto the tensioner pulley.

The grey S/C cable is connected to the valve cover to hold it in place.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0718.jpg

Next, the ECU comes off the firewall. I removed the bracket that holds the big ECU harness to the fender wall.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0720.jpg

The big connector has a shroud at the back of the connector to protect the wires. You first have to cut the tie strap that holds the top of the shroud to the harness. Then a insert a pick or tiny screwdriver blade into the front of the shroud to pop it off.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0722-1.jpg

This is what the side of the shroud looks like once you take it off. The tab is on the front side edge of the shroud.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0723.jpg

If you do it wrong, the tab breaks off.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0724.jpg

And here is the large harness all ready for you to crimp on the Blitz wires. Instead of crimping, we are going to cut the factory wires and solder them to the Blitz wires and follow with shrink tubing.

Note the bracket mentioned earlier and where it attaches to the fender wall.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0725-1.jpg

BTW, it really helps to lay out all the electrical harnesses on the floor and read the instructions. Tape the ends of the bare wires with where they are supposed to go and get a good mental picture of the entire setup. This is no place to mess up.

PetersRedYaris

11-22-2008, 06:59 PM

The plastic strap you have holding the A/C line out of the way is probably better than a metal clamp. Metal can/will wear through the aluminum line due to prolonged vibration, and the line is probably over $100, plus the A/C recharge. Double up the plastic if it makes you feel better, or if you must use a metal clamp be sure to use some type of rubber padding between them. Just be sure the line is run cleanly, metal on metal is bad...

And good job listening to your brother about the soldering and shrinkwraping, he is telling you the correct way to do it.

SIPNGAS

11-22-2008, 07:17 PM

When Princess Maddie makes a request, I can only answer "As you wish"

I can almost hear Mark Knoppler's music wafting up.

Most of the ladies will understand this. For you guys, this is a guaranteed score if you play this DVD on date night.

awe! one of my favorite movies!

cali yaris

11-23-2008, 01:13 AM

I own that movie -- comes in handy. :wink:

SIPNGAS

11-23-2008, 02:15 AM

I own that movie -- comes in handy. :wink:

It really IS a guys romance movie...really...and if a guy can like that movie, he's going to get the girl he's watching it with.

:thumbup:

cali yaris

11-23-2008, 02:25 AM

if a guy can like that movie, he's going to get the girl he's watching it with.

duly noted. :biggrin:

SIPNGAS

11-23-2008, 02:43 AM

I also own it and could watch that movie a million times and never get sick of it.

eTiMaGo

11-23-2008, 08:23 AM

SIPNGAS

11-23-2008, 10:30 AM

Yeah..we did get a bit off-topic, huh?

LT, will you be working on the SC again today? We're all waiting!

SIPNGAS

11-23-2008, 10:33 AM

well this thread is already way off topic, so...

I only recently discovered the Princess Bride... I very often saw the quote "Hello, My name is Inigo Montoya..." but had no idea where it was from :biggrin: excellent movie, its cult status is certainly not inconceivable! :laugh:

BTW thinkgeek.com now has a Dread Pirate Roberts articulated action figure :wink:

Now, back to your regular supercharger programming!

OMG!! Thomas!! I *love* that website!! Did you see the Office Space Kit?? Wow, I know what everyone in my Cubeville is getting from me for Christmas. :bellyroll:FABULOUS!! :thumbup:

SIPNGAS

11-23-2008, 01:23 PM

Good luck today!

cali yaris

11-23-2008, 01:46 PM

I might drop by, I promise not to wrestle with your car again... maybe the dog though... :wink:

mrbond

11-23-2008, 03:31 PM

As soon as I saw the CAI I also questoned it. I will also try to get an answer about that for you today.

Hey Garm, did you ever get in contact with Blitz to see if the compressor was compatible with the 2 pc CAI's?

LtNoogie

11-23-2008, 05:04 PM

I might drop by, I promise not to wrestle with your car again... maybe the dog though... :wink:

Garm, we are leaving the shop (1:10). There are only two wires left to do and there's a conflict with the instructions that I have to ask the guys about that have done the install.

LtNoogie

11-23-2008, 08:25 PM

The S/C Activation Box stays inside the car so I run the loose wires through the wire loom.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/SCactivationbox.jpg

Up on the firewall above and to the left of the ECU was a rubber plug that plugged a hole leading to the interior of the car. I pulled the plug out and from the inside slit a vertical and horizontal opening in the carpet that covers the hole.

I found the perfect gromment at Pep Boys that had a tapered side that pushed easily into the hole. I push the wire loom through that gromment and into the engine compartment.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0728.jpg

There are four wires in the bundle that come from the S/C Activation Box. The instructions say:

"8. Run all the wires, except the red wire from the activation box, to the passenger side glove box area. (Leave the red wire on the driver’s side for now.)"

So we leave the red wire inside the car for now.

The blue wire that comes from the S/C Activation Box has a barrel crimp connector at the end of it, so I thought. There is another identical blue wire that comes off of the relay assembly that feeds through the grommet to go inside the car. The relay assembly stays in the engine compartment.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/relayharness.jpg

When I tried to crimp the blue wire from the engine compartment to the barrel crimp connector from the S/C Activation Box, the wire keeps falling out of the crimp. So, we cut off the crimp connector and solder the two ends of the blue wires together and shrink wrap the new connection.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0729.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0730.jpg

Inside the engine compartment we slowly start snipping wires in the ECU harness, each of us double-checking the other to make sure we are snipping the correct wire. The new wires from the Fuel Control Unit connector harness are soldered one one by one onto the snipped ECU wires and the bundle shrink wrapped.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0732.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0739a.jpg

One wire from the Fuel Control Unit connector harness has to be spliced into the blue wire that went from the relay assembly to the interior of the car. We had to cut the blue wire and make a three-way blue wire connection. The third leg goes to the green wire from the Fuel Control Unit connector harness.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0734.jpg

This completes all the wires that goe into the large ECU harness connector. Next, we remove the shroud from the small ECU harness connector by releasing two tabs and cutting the tie strap that ties the back of it to the harness.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0737.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0738.jpg

So there's only one yellow wire from the interior S/C Activation Box to connect to the small ECU connector and one red wire from the Fuel Control Unit connector harness to connect to the small ECU connector.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/wirediagram1.jpg

But if you notice, there's another red wire from the interior S/C Activation Box that's supposed to also connect to the same red wire that came from the Fuel Control Unit connector harness.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/wirediagram2.jpg

This is the same red wire the instructions said to leave inside the car so the instructions don't match the wiring diagram.

Those of you who have done this installation, did you route the red wire from inside the car through the firewall and connect as the wiring diagram shows? If that's the case, why did the instructions say to leave the red wire inside the car and not push it through with the rest of the bundle?

LtNoogie

11-23-2008, 08:30 PM

Although cutting/soldering/shrink wrapping wired connections makes for more reliable joints, not everyone has all the tools to do the job right. My brother and I come from a defense industry background so we have most of the tools of the trade. This may be harder on a typical college student.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0735.jpg

PetersRedYaris

11-23-2008, 10:24 PM

Ooooh, bustin out the good soldering equipment...

Is the red wire power (or ignition power)? In which case you could find one inside the car. Test it...

mrbond

11-23-2008, 10:30 PM

Woooh, Noogie, looking at all this wiring and not understanding any of it makes me understand your joke about keeping the car stock! @_@

Doc Zaius

11-24-2008, 01:55 AM

Hey Noogie! Looking good! Two soldering stations?! If ever any of my crimps fail, I'm totally gonna undo everything and go this route as well.

But to answer your question, I fed the activation switch's red wire back into the engine bay and spliced into the ECU connection mentioned in the installation guide. Others found an IG+ source inside the passenger cabin to splice into (someone used the cigarette lighter as well).

Good use for the wiring loom! Different from me... I used my included loom to wrap the power wire from the battery over to the relay near the 'charger. For the 4 wires going into the cabin, I wrapped them with electrical tape near the grommet, and they're just bundled together inside the car.

Anyhow... again, nice writeup. And get ready... you'll be making boost in less than 24 hours! :biggrin:

LtNoogie

11-24-2008, 02:15 AM

Yeah, where my brother used to work, they were never allowed to strip wires with cutters due the risk of nicking wires. All stripping had to be done by melting the insulation. The HoTweezers is that device.

The soldering iron is a standard adjustable Weller soldering station. The last thing is a heat gun.

You also see a spool of solder, solder wick, a solder sucker, and flux remover. Off camera is a jar of flux. Lastly, there's a bag of assorted sized shrink tubing.

It is tight working in that ECU connector but we learned that you can pull some extra wire length out of the harness to give more wire to work with. It was a bit slow but we wanted it to look like it does at work.

eTiMaGo

11-24-2008, 02:18 AM

It's attention to detail like that, that creates a solid, long-lasting project :smile:

My approach would be to twist wires together and wrap with electrical tape, that's why I don't do wiring :laugh:

LtNoogie

11-24-2008, 02:24 AM

Doc Zaius

11-24-2008, 02:41 AM

Here's a question for all you Blitz owners: what did you use to cut up your engine cover? I bought a Dremel, and a few bits to cut soft things like plastic & wood. Anyhow, worked ok, but the bit gets hot and starts melting plastic and gets plastic goo everywhere, and is hard to make nice even cuts. What did other people use? Band saw? Hack saw? More patience? Let me know... I'm halfway done, and want it to come out nice! :biggrin:

LtNoogie

11-24-2008, 02:47 AM

I'm switching to a custom aluminum cover. I'm going to have it anodized blue and have some lettering etched into it.

We'll tackle that after the car's running.

TEHxFALLEN V1.2

11-24-2008, 03:11 AM

I've been reading your thread, Long!

I love how you're doing this with your brother, with no goofing off whatsoever. Maybe you guys should be an official Blitz s/c installation center!

LtNoogie

11-24-2008, 03:15 AM

You know what's kinda sad? We've figured out that we could do another installation in half the time now that we know what we're doing. All that learning curve for one installation.

JR, you need to buy Garm's last Blitz. The three of us can do the installation in one weekend. You just have to buy us tacos from the nearby burrito shop.

TEHxFALLEN V1.2

11-24-2008, 03:18 AM

I would buy the s/c if I had that much money, but I don't! :cry:

On top of that, finals is in 3 weeks.. then I have to buy more books and units! gahhhhhh!!!

And now my CRX is acting up, I need a new starter :bs:

id3379

11-24-2008, 04:56 AM

Nice Progress

whooppee777

11-24-2008, 05:05 PM

this wiring thing happening here whats the issue exactly. this is the part i was worried about

LtNoogie

11-24-2008, 06:25 PM

this wiring thing happening here whats the issue exactly. this is the part i was worried about

whooppee, there really hasn't been an issue. We ran out of time but there was only the one red wire that I thought belonged inside the car.

Doc ran it into the engine compartment. Camell left it inside the car. It connects to Ignition +12V so I have my choice of either.

We really took our time here and have not had a mishap. Yet.

You just need to decide to use the crimps the kit provides or to solder the connections.

whooppee777

11-24-2008, 09:13 PM

well good. now stop screwn around, drop everything ur doing and finish this damn thing. so i can here that this thing fires right up and works on the 2008 LB

LtNoogie

11-24-2008, 09:42 PM

No updates tonight.:frown:

I'm working late for a presentation tomorrow morning.

cali yaris

11-25-2008, 02:08 PM

:: paces the room ::

:: taps foot ::

:: considers watching TV instead ::

SIPNGAS

11-25-2008, 03:05 PM

Garm, you just want your sushi.

cali yaris

11-25-2008, 06:43 PM

I want so much more than that :wink:

SIPNGAS

11-25-2008, 07:45 PM

Wow!

LtNoogie

11-26-2008, 12:25 AM

Everything is closed up. We are going to turn on the ignition now.

SIPNGAS

11-26-2008, 12:27 AM

oh my! Good luck!!!

mikenacarato

11-26-2008, 12:28 AM

and? boom? vroom?

SIPNGAS

11-26-2008, 12:31 AM

He knows we're waiting, right? =)

KCALB SIRAY

11-26-2008, 12:41 AM

I've got a beer and some popcorn, I'm ready

SIPNGAS

11-26-2008, 12:42 AM

Why is it taking so long? Is he buzzing around the neighborhood?? I hope the silence is a good thing....

4 minutes...I only have 4 minutes left, Long!

SIPNGAS

11-26-2008, 12:50 AM

This is the first thread I'm checking in the morning!

cali yaris

11-26-2008, 12:52 AM

me too! This is....well.. painful, in a funny sort of way?

KCALB SIRAY

11-26-2008, 12:53 AM

kinda like when you were a kid and you got your first remote control car. I never put mine down, did you? He'll update us soon, I'm sure.

LtNoogie

11-26-2008, 12:55 AM

:thumbsup::thumbdown:

Ok, the car started. It idled rough but we verified that the belt did not disintegrate.

The blower clutch engages and disengages.

Then 5 minutes into idling, my brother yells "stop the engine!"

Fuel injector #2 popped out of the fuel rail and gas went all over the valve cover.

We will have to do a partial disassembly and try to get the injector to fit tighter.

mikenacarato

11-26-2008, 12:55 AM

:( sorry to hear about it. why didnt the rail sit tight?

LtNoogie

11-26-2008, 12:57 AM

Believe me, we had two fire extinguishers at the ready. That's all we're gonna do for the night. The engine is warmish and I have gas on the valve cover.

Well, I think I held my breath as much as you guys did. I kept yelling at my brother to get his face out of the engine compartment in case something flew out.

I'll post what little pictures I have tonight.

Doc Zaius

11-26-2008, 01:08 AM

Congrats on finishing. Sorry it didn't go the first time.

My last injector sprayed fuel 3 times (I think) before we got it seated properly. I then lubed up the o-rings with a bit of WD-40, and it popped on properly. Like I mentioned previously, my Toyota tech said you should always lube the injectors when putting them back onto the rail.

At least, popping off the fuel rail and reseating the injectors doesn't require removing anything else. Just un-snipping the zip ties holding the cable bundle to the rail.

Anyhow, good luck tomorrow when you try again! We'll be waiting!! :biggrin:

LtNoogie

11-26-2008, 01:34 AM

Gosh, the pressure you guys are putting me under is worse than the pressure I already feel!:wink:

Yoda

11-26-2008, 02:01 AM

its worst for us cause we are not there to see the start up :(

LtNoogie

11-26-2008, 02:27 AM

:( sorry to hear about it. why didnt the rail sit tight?

I don't know much about fuel injectors but ours are plastic things that just push into the fuel rail and are held in place by the o-ring. As Doc has said, you need to lube these with WD-40 before seating them into the fuel rail. I did not do this and I thought that the injectors went in fine. Apparently not.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/FIoring.jpg

cali yaris

11-26-2008, 02:36 AM

ooh VERY CLOSE now!

I stayed up late, just hoping for an update. Thanks Noogie, I can go sleep now. :thumbsup:

LtNoogie

11-26-2008, 02:49 AM

Today, I ran the red wire that had been left in the passenger compartment back through the loom and into the engine compartment. This wire and the last yellow wire are soldered onto the small ECU connector harness.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/P1020348.jpg

The covers go back on the ECU harness connectors. I put one of them on backwards so that wasted some time.

HINT: Take as many pictures as you can before you disconnect or tear apart anything. Three days later, it's hard to remember what position it was in when you started.

The two ECU harness connectors are reconnected to the ECU and the ECU is mounted back onto the firewall. Wire loom sections are cut to cover as much bare wire as possible.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/P1020350.jpg

The +12V wire is connected to the battery. We don't tie strap anthing down in case we have to take it apart again.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/P1020351.jpg

We shine two lights into the engine compartment for five minutes to make sure there are no tools left in there or connectors left unconnected. My brother finds a bracket that had not been re-attached to the throttle body so I attached it.

The fuel pump connector goes back onto the top of the fuel tank back where the 60% seat was. We prime the fuel system per the directions. Position the fire extinguishers within reach.

The S/C control is set to OFF and the car is started. The car starts and all looks and feels good. We start and stop it a few times to make sure the belt is running straight.

Then with the S/C control set to the lowest level, I start the car again and press the throttle part way. We hear the blower clutch engage. I left my Scangauge at home so I don't know what RPM I was at.

A few more presses of the throttle and the car starts to idle roughly. The CEL comes on and the car does not want to idle very well.

I press the throttle part way again and that is when the injector pops out of the fuel rail. There's gas all over that area and we decide not to do anymore testing until tomorrow.

You can just see the fuel injector and it is now partially out of the fuel rail.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/P1020352-1.jpg

LtNoogie

11-26-2008, 03:04 AM

At this point, I doubt that I will take too many more pictures unless something extraordinary happens that need recording. I will continue to post on my progress until it is running and I feel that it is safe enough for me to drive this car home. Eventually, I will make that video for PETERPOOP. You'll probably see me just crawling at walking speed in the parking lot while my brother walks alongside shooting the video.:laugh: I'll try to hide the fear of a breakdown from my face.:eek:

I want to thank, in advance, all of you who have been watching this journey for your moral support. I am constantly amazed at how many views this thread has generated.

Special thanks go to those who did the installation before me and have given me many priceless hints.

I hope that this will prove useful to those who have yet to install their Blitz superchargers. Kurokuma-kun, if you are still watching stealthily, good luck this coming week. Same to you whooppee777.

LtNoogie

11-26-2008, 12:11 PM

It is scary to fire the thing up for the first time. I went and got a neighbor to watch in the engine compartment and have a hold of the fire extinguisher.

How long was it before you felt comfortable driving on the freeway? 15 minutes later? A day later?

whooppee777

11-26-2008, 01:39 PM

continues to take notes.....dont forget spacer b.....duct tape the injectors to the fuel rail

Doc Zaius

11-26-2008, 02:28 PM

Hahhahah... I drove around the block only a few times, and got it out on the freeway about 10 minutes later. Popped the hood just before that to make sure the belt was still good, and there wasn't any weird smells or smoke in the engine bay.
:burnrubber:

But yeah, for those injectors, we totally thought we had them on fully... pressed and pressed and wiggled and pressed, but still as soon as I started the car, *squirt squirt* all over. You guys are much more safety conscious than I... even though I had an extinguisher in the garage, it definitely wasn't nearby just-in-case!! :eek:

Pop that sucker back on, and go make some boost! :biggrin:

LtNoogie

11-26-2008, 02:38 PM

The next problem I had which was a few weeks later was I blew a belt.

So, when the belt broke, did that strand you? Did you have to be towed home?

Putting the belt on is not the easiest thing, at least for my length of belt.

LtNoogie

11-26-2008, 02:41 PM

continues to take notes.....dont forget spacer b.....duct tape the injectors to the fuel rail

:laugh: You may be the one person who gets it done in a day and have time to drive the supercharged Yaris to the movies the same night!

PETERPOOP

11-26-2008, 02:47 PM

nice progress! can't wait for videos!!!! oh yah!

largeorangefont

11-26-2008, 03:02 PM

I don't know much about fuel injectors but ours are plastic things that just push into the fuel rail and are held in place by the o-ring. As Doc has said, you need to lube these with WD-40 before seating them into the fuel rail. I did not do this and I thought that the injectors went in fine. Apparently not.

Don't use WD40, use vaseline. Also inspect the o rings very carefully. If you cut one you will need a new one, and the car will never run right. The o rings are made of a different material so they arent broken down by contact with gasoline.

Doc Zaius

11-26-2008, 03:58 PM

Don't use WD40, use vaseline. Also inspect the o rings very carefully. If you cut one you will need a new one, and the car will never run right. The o rings are made of a different material so they arent broken down by contact with gasoline.

Uh oh... really? Maybe this is why I'm having trouble starting my car after it's been sitting for a day. I've figured out that I'm having my fuel pressure bleed off. If I turn the key to "ON" and wait about 5 seconds before cranking, it starts up fine... but if not, it just cranks for a couple seconds, sputters and dies. Then starts fine after that. Hmmmmmm... maybe I need to re-examine my O-rings and replace them.

... Doc Zaius used a 8 rib belt and got 2 for the price of one but I don't remember the part number.

I didn't... I thought of that after I bought the 6-rib belt and cut it up. I think it's part #4080660.

LtNoogie

11-26-2008, 04:27 PM

I used the 8-rib because that's all they had and I thought that Doc had used the 8-rib. Ahh, the blind leading the clueless.

Doc Zaius

11-26-2008, 06:00 PM

Nope... I came up with the genius idea, but a little too late! :bonk:

LtNoogie

11-26-2008, 10:46 PM

I found the problem! It was a rubber injector vibration insulator that had popped out and fell on the floor when we removed the fuel rail. My brother had found it on the floor when we pushed the car back but he did not know what it was.

This rubber insulator pushes against the injector and keeps it seated in the fuel rail. With the insulator out, injector #2 had nothing holding it in tightly against the fuel rail

I followed the shop manual and removed the valve cover :eek: to totally remove the fuel rail and work the injectors. Cool pictures to follow tonight.

I'm going to put everything back together but need to wait for my brother to get here before I fire her up again.

SIPNGAS

11-26-2008, 11:00 PM

So close!! Great work!

LtNoogie

11-27-2008, 01:09 AM

Ladies and Gentlemen...WE'VE GOT BOOST!

:biggrin: | :thumbup: | :headbang:

:burnrubber:

eTiMaGo

11-27-2008, 02:20 AM

woohooo!

LtNoogie

11-27-2008, 02:29 AM

Last time, we saw that fuel injector #2 had popped out of the fuel rail and gas was squirting onto the engine. Today, I undid some tie straps and proceeded to loosen the two bolts that hold the fuel rail to the head.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0742.jpg

This allows the fuel rail to pivot up a little and I can pull injectors #1 and #2 completely out of the rail. The other two injectors are too hard to pull out right now because of the angle of the rail.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0744.jpg

There is no good reason why the injector should have popped out of the fuel rail so I looked into the holes where the injectors plug into the head. I noticed that cylinder #1 has a black rubber something in the hole and cylinder #2 has shiny metal.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0749.jpg

Apparently when we pulled the fuel rail the very first time, one of the rubber fuel injector vibration insulators had popped loose and had gotten lost. This is terrible because I'd have to go to Toyota to get a replacement and there's a 100% probability that they would have to order it.

Then, I look on our work bench and I see a black rubber thingy that looks alot like what should have been in the fuel injection port. Luckily for me, when it fell out days ago, it fell onto the floor underneath the car. When my brother pushed the car near the garage door, he found the thing and put it on the bench, not knowing what the heck it was!

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0751.jpg

In order to get the other injectors out, I decided to follow the instructions in the shop manual. This is the Yaris shop manual that Violin had posted in 2006 to the DYI forum. That set of manuals is priceless and I suggest that everybody download the pdf files to your computers.

The manual says that in order to work on the fuel injectors, you have to remove the valve cover so the ignition coils come off, the valve cover comes off and I'm staring at the two cams, the timing chain and other cool engine components. This only took 20 minutes.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0746.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0753.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0756.jpg

Now, it's really easy to lift the fuel rail up and I can get to the other two fuel injectors. I put o-ring lube on each injector o-ring and the injectors go back into the fuel rail.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0754.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0757.jpg

The fuel rail slips back into its original position and I make sure the inectors are pushed into the rubber insulators in the head.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/IMGP0758.jpg

I install everything in the reverse order that they were disassembled and the engine is back in one piece again.

My brother comes to the shop and we go through the startup procedure again but this time the car is idling very smoothly. No CEL. I need to get a wideband A/F gauge badly because it smells like its running rich but it could be because it's still cold.

Lastly, we take it out on the street in this industrial park and test it and I can definitely feel it when the blower kicks in. There's an urgency to get somewhere that I have not felt in this car before.

We'll drive it carefully over this Thanksgiving weekend and I'll keep checking for loose nuts and bolts and I'll check the belt.

Other than that, this project is essentially over. I'll post some driving impressions after I get some more time on it.

Th th th th that's all folks!:thumbsup:

Malaya1221

11-27-2008, 03:19 AM

...I fire her up again.

please stop saying this!:biggrin:

can't wait to see it in person and maybe ride on it!

cali yaris

11-27-2008, 03:33 AM

wow....Noogie, you are a CHAMPION. :clap: :bow:

*MAD DOG*

11-27-2008, 04:39 AM

Well done. :clap: Just need to get it on a dyno when you have it 100% finished. :thumbup:

LtNoogie

11-27-2008, 01:37 PM

please stop saying this!:biggrin:

can't wait to see it in person and maybe ride on it!

Are you local to the San Fernando Valley?

wow....Noogie, you are a CHAMPION. :clap: :bow:

Thanks to you and your finessing the A/C line! I need to know if you have a jpg or gif of the MicroImage logo. Would you mind if I have it etched on the engine cover?

Well done. :clap: Just need to get it on a dyno when you have it 100% finished. :thumbup:

I have to take the mental step of going WOT.:eek: I want to enjoy a couple of weeks of driving while I continue to tighten nuts and bolts. But, dyno day will come for sure.

Congrats on the install again. That is some major surgery to get the rail off, I don't know if I would have went that far. Was there a gasket on the valve cover? I am assuming there was, but did you reuse it or put another one on?

I am curious if you are still running the TRD intake?

Taking the valve cover off was a piece of cake becaus there is nothing in the way. There is a rubber gasket ring that fits into a groove in the valve cover. I should have gotten a new gasket and may do so in the near future.

I am still using the TRD intake but will switch to the AEM intake when Garm and I can hook up. I also will order some gauges from him... wideband A/F, vacuum/boost, ???.