Pre-Hack Repost: DIY Eaton Supercharger, Why Not?

[Nexus1155]

So this is funny, Of course everything of mine got deleted from the hack so i am bringing it up again, but wondering more about it. I've never cared to look at how superchargers worked, but i knew the basics. I have some questions on certain issues as well...

So, a user by the name of BoogieQ did a DIY supercharger kit over on ScionLife using an Eaton M62 supercharger(2.5-3.0L Recommendation) Not near our range of 1.5, but he did it, it worked, why not. The exception is with how much power was robbed from the crank to get it to spin enough to make power....

Question in fact is, is the Blitz supercharger using the Eaton M62 or something similar to the size of it, is why the users are getting such minimilistic gains....

Now, here comes into play the Eaton M45(1.5L-2.0L from the mini cooper or Merc Komp, quite tiny as you can see(picture below) The mini with a 1.6L engine can make an upwards of 230hp with a smaller pulley upgrade as i've read. that is only .1l more, so we should not be far behind their gains(with the reasoning that every engine is made differently).

I have seen most superchargers bolt right up to the intake manifold itself, but it does not need to in a sense..all you would need to do is create an outlet from the supercharger that goes into the stock intake manifold, and just reroute some piping while keeping the stock design.

The extremeties of doing this are just piping and brackets to hold the superchargers weight, and of course belts and jargon... nothing at all really...What is stopping people from doing this? Show me some interest peoples!

http://www.alfa145.com/upload/Eaton%20M45_7.jpg

[mikenacarato]

if you can pull this off that would be incredible. i get eaton parts at a nice proce too. :)

[Nexus1155]

well this might be a doozy, but i want to try to sell my Honda engine to see if i can purchase an M45 supercharger, preferably one from a mini, but they are kind of pricey compared to the bigger ones which is funny

I'm just wondering how much boost i can push without needing a tune. I guess only time will tell until it gets done on here

What else is needed for a supercharger to function correctly? It seems like im missing something, Inlet/Outlet/Belt/Vacuum Line?

[cali yaris]

What is stopping people from doing this? Show me some interest peoples!

umm... what's stopping YOU? :rolleyes:

[Nexus1155]

wanna loan me about $600? hahahah

[Tamago]

lysholm (whipple) twinscrew headunits are more efficient than roots type blowers.. just FYI..

[justjesus]

I'm just wondering how much boost i can push without needing a tune. I guess only time will tell until it gets done on here

What else is needed for a supercharger to function correctly? It seems like im missing something, Inlet/Outlet/Belt/Vacuum Line?

I had a similar idea for a honda B-series motor. I've pretty much layed it to rest (for now).

You will likely need some bypass valve as well, for when you're running off boost.

[Nexus1155]

AFAIK the blitz kits did not use a bypass valve...but there were thoughts on people adding one as well as an intercooler... i know the twinscrew ones are more effecient, but they are of similar design to the roots, just alot more complicated of a design...I will be posting my Honda Head on craigslist tomorrow to see if i can get any bites and i will let you guys know if i end up buying one...

[Sabretooth]

Hmm Im shocked I never came across this thread in the start.


I would say the best thing is to try and get a parts list from one of the guys who did a Blitz install and see what your needing for everything. It could be possible to compile a list of what ya need hardware wise, then just figure the rest out as you go.

[Nexus1155]

yeah, im about to do that right now and search all the blitz install threads....and i got a couple of nibbles on the engine head so far so this might actually be a plausable project for me...

Should it go....

Intake > MAF > Supecharger > Throttle Body > Intake Manifold?

or

Intake > Supercharger > MAF > Throttle Body > Intake Manifold

im assuming the first one because you need to meter how much air is taken into the supercharger in the first place? but its debatable i guess because you're still monitoring the air after the fact of the supercharger as well

[Morgan]

lysholm (whipple) twinscrew headunits are more efficient than roots type blowers.. just FYI..

yeah probably why our mini cooper s only got like 19 in the city... but it was whinney and quick!

[anonymous user]

Interesting thread nexus1155. I'd also consider the rotrex s.c. The install seems so simple.

[Nexus1155]

The Rotrex supercharger is centrifigual?, I like the idea of it, but if i were going to do it that way, i might as well buy a turbo and make a turbo kit... I like the idea of this supercharger is because they are found quite affordable and are in abundance since they come from multiple cars...

The eaton compared to the rotrex would just be needing maybe a stronger mount, and a little more pipe work... but in essence the same... also the eaton you can find smaller pulleys to increase boost... i do not know if the same goes for the rotrex?

[anonymous user]

Cool beans man. In this times of difficult recession, although my company has assured me my job is "safe", i have seen many friends and people being laid off for restructuring or downsizing their staff. For this reason i am leery about dropping too much money into my car for what i currently deem "luxury" items.
I hope everyone here survives this awful time in american history.

[Nexus1155]

times are getting better, and i think it is a big hype for everyone, which is making it seems worse than it really is currently... Just do your best to get by and try to cut out un-needed items and it will make you feel better... like smoking... if you do smoke... nasty habbit

The cost I will try to estimate as best as i can...
Supercharger - $250
Piping/Flange work - $100(need custom parts made)
Mounting Brackets - $50
Misc Parts/Belt $50

So around $450 for a nice working kit. Honestly the only hard part i see about this kit is lining it up with the pulleys(Anyone know how much room for error in play i can have?) and custom flanges > piping will require some sheetmetal work or atleast for me to fiberglass something durable quickly and make a gasket for it...

[Tamago]

unless one has a serious hookup, you will not be seeing prices like the ones above.. change $150 for piping/flange/mounting brackets to about $500 for a more accurate number. and don't forget engine management.

trust me, DIY turbo will cost you less

[Nexus1155]

wow, so technically as the cost of living goes up, pay gets cut and layoffs, and we get screwed even more... very nice

unless one has a serious hookup, you will not be seeing prices like the ones above.. change $150 for piping/flange/mounting brackets to about $500 for a more accurate number. and don't forget engine management.

Regardless I cannot use engine management as of now anyways so i'm going to wing it without it until i find a better method than is out there now.....and pricing just depends where you shop until you find a good price...

I think the mounting brackets would have been cheaper than most things, its just a piece of metal that you could possibly make yourself with rough measurements..

If i were to do turbo(Already have two spare K03's), id just rather buy richards kit anyways for it being the easier thing to do, the supercharger kit requires no welding, and the ARC welder i have sucks and spatter will go everywhere... Plus a supercharged yaris just seems right for some reason...

[eTiMaGo]

there is indeed something indescribable about the urgency of that whine :smile:

[dacourier]

Plus a supercharged yaris just seems right for some reason...[/QUOTE]:headbang::headbang::headbang:Hell yeah

[Nexus1155]

bahhhh that jackass that was selling the supercharger for cheap took it offline, what an asshat...kind of pissed right now, trying to see if i can find another deal...

[Tamago]

wow, so technically as the cost of living goes up, pay gets cut and layoffs, and we get screwed even more... very nice



Regardless I cannot use engine management as of now anyways so i'm going to wing it without it until i find a better method than is out there now.....and pricing just depends where you shop until you find a good price...

I think the mounting brackets would have been cheaper than most things, its just a piece of metal that you could possibly make yourself with rough measurements..

If i were to do turbo(Already have two spare K03's), id just rather buy richards kit anyways for it being the easier thing to do, the supercharger kit requires no welding, and the ARC welder i have sucks and spatter will go everywhere... Plus a supercharged yaris just seems right for some reason...

rough measurements are for horseshoes and hand grenades..

getting your pulley to line up perfectly will be an issue, and making a bracket strong enough will be difficult without aluminum..

[largeorangefont]

times are getting better, and i think it is a big hype for everyone, which is making it seems worse than it really is currently... Just do your best to get by and try to cut out un-needed items and it will make you feel better... like smoking... if you do smoke... nasty habbit

The cost I will try to estimate as best as i can...
Supercharger - $250
Piping/Flange work - $100(need custom parts made)
Mounting Brackets - $50
Misc Parts/Belt $50

So around $450 for a nice working kit. Honestly the only hard part i see about this kit is lining it up with the pulleys(Anyone know how much room for error in play i can have?) and custom flanges > piping will require some sheetmetal work or atleast for me to fiberglass something durable quickly and make a gasket for it...

No way is it going to come close to being that cheap. You need an entire manifold made, runners with fuel injector bosses, flanges on each end and it looks like the blower snout is not long enough. It will be over $2000 (probably closer to $3000) unless you do everything yourself. On top of all that the blower snout looks too short.

You are better off going with a centrifugal blower or turbo.

[richardholdener]

I have some experience in designing and building supercharger kits(we designed and built the blower systems for Stillen on the Maxima)-here are a few tips. The belt alignment has to be perfect in every axis or you will throw belts. The blower can blow through the MAF,but it will be much better to draw through the MAF and the throttle body should be mounted in front of the supercharger, not on the manifold in stock configuration. You can run without a bypass valve by air temps will go up significantly under cruise conditions and will use more fuel this way (increased parasitic loses). I doubt the stock MAF will be able to cope with additional airflow from blower, but might work at lower boost levels-we have had good luck in NA applications up to 123 wheel hp so far. Blower needs to be rigidly mounted using mounting plate to engine to keep belt alignment true-this takes some design work. It is a good idea to have blower blow through stock intake as this will help ower compared to blitz set up with short runners. This is not something that can be thrown together, but it can work.

[LtNoogie]

I'm halfway through a Biltz installation right now and the engine compartment is getting very crowded. As Richard said, whatever you throw together had better make sure all your pulleys are lined up and parallel.

From the picture in the original post, you might need to cut a hole in your hood cause that sucker is big!

Like largeorangefont said, you need to build a new intake manifold or get Richard to make you one.

I don't know what are the major cost drivers in a complete supercharger kit but the compressor is only a part of it.

[id3379]

DO IT DO IT !

[Tamago]

I have some experience in designing and building supercharger kits(we designed and built the blower systems for Stillen on the Maxima)-here are a few tips. The belt alignment has to be perfect in every axis or you will throw belts. The blower can blow through the MAF,but it will be much better to draw through the MAF and the throttle body should be mounted in front of the supercharger, not on the manifold in stock configuration. You can run without a bypass valve by air temps will go up significantly under cruise conditions and will use more fuel this way (increased parasitic loses). I doubt the stock MAF will be able to cope with additional airflow from blower, but might work at lower boost levels-we have had good luck in NA applications up to 123 wheel hp so far. Blower needs to be rigidly mounted using mounting plate to engine to keep belt alignment true-this takes some design work. It is a good idea to have blower blow through stock intake as this will help ower compared to blitz set up with short runners. This is not something that can be thrown together, but it can work.

FYI on the MAF, it's the same units used on the Subaru STI.. it'll handle plenty of air flow :)

[Nexus1155]

Thanks for the advice Richard, and its good to hear the MAF would be able to handle it...

I will not be making a new intake manifold just utilizing the stock one with a connecting pipe, the air does not need to be direct as it still holds the same pressure charge.... with an intercooler, it will cut down on bends in the pipe work...

but you are right, the mounting will take alot of work if not the most... I have my cardboard and scissor ready ;)

But i still have a couple of recirc valves from an S4 and a small intercooler to boot


This is pretty much what it will look like, might be ghetto, but a supercharger setup that is cheap, would you argue?

http://www.houlster.com/amigo/supercharger/images/img_0025.jpg

[richardholdener]

I love this home made stuff-you should see my compound turbo system on my 1987 Sprint-full Mad Max style.

Thanks for the advice Richard, and its good to hear the MAF would be able to handle it...

I will not be making a new intake manifold just utilizing the stock one with a connecting pipe, the air does not need to be direct as it still holds the same pressure charge.... with an intercooler, it will cut down on bends in the pipe work...

but you are right, the mounting will take alot of work if not the most... I have my cardboard and scissor ready ;)

But i still have a couple of recirc valves from an S4 and a small intercooler to boot


This is pretty much what it will look like, might be ghetto, but a supercharger setup that is cheap, would you argue?

http://www.houlster.com/amigo/supercharger/images/img_0025.jpg

[mikenacarato]

whats the part number off of that supercharger. im going to see what my cost is on it.

[Nexus1155]

It is an Eaton M45, P/n 117159-10,7526657-01 ....surprised i found that... Got any pics of the Turbo Sprint Richard?

No pics means it didn't happen ;) I would love to see it though

[Tamago]

a turbocharger can be had for $50
a cast manifold for $180

but hey, good luck ;)

[Nexus1155]

turboing just has more knitpicky parts :-/ thats the only reason im not doing it...

but supercharger, ohh man...

Woooooooo....Woooooooooo...WOOOOOOOOOO

[ztrack157]

If you do this your my hero.

[Tamago]

turboing just has more knitpicky parts :-/ thats the only reason im not doing it...

but supercharger, ohh man...

Woooooooo....Woooooooooo...WOOOOOOOOOO

be specific.. what nitpicky parts?

[Nexus1155]

oil lines/coolant lines/AN Fittings/Having to tape the block/pan/Wastegates/Boost Controllers/Intercooler/ More Custom Pipe work/etc....

Supercharging is based off the intake side, which means i do not need to do pipework, just making flanges with pipes.

There is a perfectly substitutable flex pipe in the marine world that holds up to70psi of boost and has good flow. Albeit it being Orange(maybe wrap it with electrical tape or some crap, variety of colors now), it is still somewhat pricey, but i think it will save tons on costs versus piping. If it could withstand the hotside of a turbo, i would've did that, but almost all silicone/rubber melts at those degrees...

And it is not like i am trying to build a monster here, the supercharger with a reduced pulley can make some good power... If i were trying to make a drag monster/track warrior... I would not keep this engine at all unless i had about 10k to throw into internals...

[Tamago]

oil lines/coolant lines/AN Fittings/Having to tape the block/pan/Wastegates/Boost Controllers/Intercooler/ More Custom Pipe work/etc....

Supercharging is based off the intake side, which means i do not need to do pipework, just making flanges with pipes.

There is a perfectly substitutable flex pipe in the marine world that holds up to70psi of boost and has good flow. Albeit it being Orange(maybe wrap it with electrical tape or some crap, variety of colors now), it is still somewhat pricey, but i think it will save tons on costs versus piping. If it could withstand the hotside of a turbo, i would've did that, but almost all silicone/rubber melts at those degrees...

And it is not like i am trying to build a monster here, the supercharger with a reduced pulley can make some good power... If i were trying to make a drag monster/track warrior... I would not keep this engine at all unless i had about 10k to throw into internals...

oil lines:
you tee into the oil pressure sensor already tapped at the block.
no one says you have to use AN fittings ;)
you don't have to tap the oil pan, use a sandwich adaptor. run the oil coming out of the turbo into your oil cooler and back into the engine

turbo:
you won't need a wastegate as most small turbos are internally gated
which also means you don't need a boost controller
you don't need an intercooler on low boost applications
and believe me, piping is much easier to fab than a bracket with "rough measurements" to hold a supercharger spinning 4X engine speed.
you can use that silicon exhaust hose for the charge air coming out of a turbo too ;)

[mikenacarato]

even on a low boost application the hot side will get HOT. although you may not have to run an intercooler, i would be more worried about excess heat buildup and firewall eatage...but hey i guess thats why i used to keep a fire extinguisher in my other car. im sure you could heat shield it and foil it and not have issues. if a stock cars turbo can glow red..that biotch it hot!

[Nexus1155]

Yeah , I saw someone tap into the pressure sender before, but i did not know these cars come stock with an oil cooler, and i thought you could not drain into anything that has a positive pressure, and thought it has to be downstream from the turbo...

I think if i had a turbo that was internally gated I would like to get a MBC to dial in the exact amount of boost, but thats only when i need to go over the internal limit already.

I will try to make it as less rough measurements as possible... I don't think the Blitz kept fabbing up mounting brackets.

I will first of all make a plate for it to sit attached to the engine with adjustable positioning so i can line up the pulley. Once I do that, i will make a clamp down bracket for the nose of the supercharger so there will be no play, and then refab the engine mounting bracket to the correct position... All of this is basic 2D work i can do in the basement without sourcing a shop out..

I know you want to see me fail!!!!

The only way i will quit this project is if i do not find a suitable M45 for sale in the coming months... if thats the case i will just use the damned K03 turbo..

[LtNoogie]

And you have to figure out how to tap into the exhaust manifold or your header. How much air flow do you have to account for going to the turbine?

Where does the spent exhaust gas go once it has gone through the turbo's turbine? I guess it has to be plumbed back into the exhaust?

[Tamago]

And you have to figure out how to tap into the exhaust manifold or your header. How much air flow do you have to account for going to the turbine?

Where does the spent exhaust gas go once it has gone through the turbo's turbine? I guess it has to be plumbed back into the exhaust?

lt,

ALL the exhaust leaving the engine goes into a turbo manifold then into your turbo then through your turbo into your downpipe then out through the midpipe.

OP, i don't want to see you fail i am just warning you it's not "just fab this plate and that bracket"

[4MPG]

with the low levels of boost your talking about I don't see any reason why you would need to run an I/C, at least not on a stock engine. From the posts on this forum I gather its only safe to run about 4-6 PSI on the stock engine to keep it from destroying the paper thin rods, and at that boost level your not going to need a I/C.

I just recently finished my FMIC install on my supercharged mustang GT, and I ran it non I/C for almost 2 years before doing the FMIC install, all on 10 PSI. The only real disadvantage to running without an intercooler was dealing with the performance loss on hot days, or after running the engine for a long time. I was seeing as much as 6-7 MPH drop in trap speed with the engine hot on a hot day before the intercooler, but once again this was on 10 PSI (with ALOT more cfm than your talking about)

Also, it would probably be OK to run a setup like the blitz, with no i/c pipping and it being directly mounted to the intake manifold, without a bypass or blowoff valve. However, if you start running a bunch of pipping for an intercooler, not to mention pluming from the blower itself to the t/b inlet, your going to need a bypass/blowoff. Just going from the non i/c setup to a FMIC setup on my GT required stepping up from a little baby bosch bypass to a monster vortech one, so I don't see you getting away with running nothing at all and not experiencing surge.

Just FYI, if your looking for pipe solutions you can get a "DIY" pipe kit on ebay for pretty cheap. I think my entire kit with 2 straights, 2 45s, 2 90s, and 2 120s with rubber connectors and T bolt clamps only ran like 100 bucks.

[largeorangefont]

A turbo at 5 PSI would be easier to setup, and cheaper. You would not need an intercooler, external wastegate, or boost controller. A good exhaust shop could do the piping for the downpipe and from the turbo outlet to the throttle body. Putting a drain fitting in the oil pan is easy, and you can get supply from a sandwhich adapter, or the OEM oil pressure switch.

Then tune it and you are done. If you found a cheap turbo you could do the whole thing for under $1000 easily, and that is paying for a decent shop to do the labor. You would have to pay for tuning and a full exhaust on either setup so that is a wash.

Properly tuned this would be as fast or faster than a blitz S/C car.

[cali yaris]

ALL the exhaust leaving the engine goes into a turbo manifold then into your turbo then through your turbo into your downpipe then out through the midpipe.

No, it doesn't. My turbo exhaust manifold has the flange for the turbo on the collector. That means some of the exhaust goes past there and out the exhaust pipe.

I don't want to see nexus fail -- I want to see SOMEONE TRY.

[largeorangefont]

I think you guys are misunderstanding each other.. You are both saying the same thing unless some of Garm's exhaust bypasses the turbo inlet.. which is inconcieveable unless he has an external wastegate.

[Nexus1155]

Well, I still want to do this or go remote turbo, but im having trouble finding an M45 supercharger, and i was trying to see if an M62 would work without boosting too much and being too much drag on the engine itself...

[at3GG]

largeorange,

what kind of turbo are you thinking of? Under $1000 seems so low?

[Nexus1155]

You can pick up a used K03 or SRT4 turbo for cheap money($50-I just took some out and they look mint, no play), they can produce upwards of 200 hp on a 1.8 and it would be perfect on the Yaris with a low spool.... It would be cheaper i think to run piping like Richards kit than to get a manifold, well depending if you find the manifold for cheap!...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K03-Turbo-Audi-A4-A6-VW-Passat-1-8T-Stock-Replacement_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1163Q 7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1 Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQh ashZitem220326819516QQitemZ220326819516QQptZMotors Q5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[at3GG]

how did he not use a manifold? I'm confused...

this ko3, is it a t25 fit as well? i know audi and vw are nice and reliable, any experience with the turbo itself?

[Nexus1155]

ive had two of them on my S4, it all depends, I beat the piss out of them everytime i drove the car and im up to 80k, just proper warmup and cool down are what matters alot... I doubt they are a T25 fit...

He did it without a manifold by just routing the piping around... You don't need a manifold to run turbo... just some place for the gasses/air to go...

[at3GG]

are the pictures still on here somewhere? I couldnt find them.....just piping from the header..to turbo..wrapped around to intake/ic? Im still not sure exactly where the air filter would go lol :iono:

[at3GG]

was it simply a smaller diameter piping so as not ALL the exhaust went into the turbo?

Richard Help!!

[Nexus1155]

was it simply a smaller diameter piping so as not ALL the exhaust went into the turbo?

I have the picture on tinypic ill have to look it up later, but the intake will come to a pipe right off of the turbo cold side...

I am not sure what you mean by that question... exhaust gasses flow from manifold > turbo... then it rerouted from turbo back to exhaust system...

The piping looked to be around 2...2-1/2 inches

[richardholdener]

Not that is matters a great deal for the power level we are talking about, but the exhaust for the turbo was routed from the back of the exhuast manifold up to the turbo (positioned in the area adjacent to the factory air filter). The size of this tubing could be anywhere from 2-2.5 inches with no effect on power. After runnning through the turbo, the exhaust exits the turbine side and is routed back (next to up pipe) out the back of the car to connect to factory or other exhuast system. Wastegate exhaust is routed in same pipe. Cone filter is located in near stock location.

I have the picture on tinypic ill have to look it up later, but the intake will come to a pipe right off of the turbo cold side...

I am not sure what you mean by that question... exhaust gasses flow from manifold > turbo... then it rerouted from turbo back to exhaust system...

The piping looked to be around 2...2-1/2 inches

[largeorangefont]

largeorange,

what kind of turbo are you thinking of? Under $1000 seems so low?

Get a take off from a WRX, Saab or Audi/VW. You don't need any custom turbo for this application.

You could do the setup in Richards post above easily for less than $1000 with a take off turbo.

[at3GG]

I feel foolish asking all these beginner questions. The exhaust was run from a stock/regular aftermarket exhaust manifold i.e megan? Obviously a custom midpipe would be needed ... I feel ok using a KO3 from an audi/vw because of the reliabilty of the cars, i assume the final output would not compare to the garrett unit that cali is running though correct?

ok here goes the dummy picture....

[at3GG]

richard, your were running around 5psi correct? I dont remember what your power output was at at that level.....130-140ish?

[Nexus1155]

the picture looks about right, but think about this.... 5psi on a K03 vs 5psi on a GT45...

[alhope34]

Not that this helps any with the Yaris, but my car comes stock with the K04 turbo. Spools to full boost by 2000 rpm on my 2.3L with mods, 2500rpm without mods. I just got my Cobb AccessPort (ECU tuner) and that little K04 spikes at 22.5-22.9psi at ~3000rpm and holds 19psi till 6000rpm then tapers to 17psi by the 6700rpm redline.

I'm sure the Yaris's engine is capable of running the K04. Amagine 19psi in a built Yaris. =)

In 5 years I'm going to get a larger turbo, probably the GT3071r

[Nexus1155]

yeah, K04s pull hard, i was tuning a friends S4, 2.8 FATS(3rd gear pull from 2500-redline in seconds i believe) Full interior and everything


If K03 spools too early on the yaris for youre liking, K04 is a nice upgrade

[eTiMaGo]

I feel foolish asking all these beginner questions. The exhaust was run from a stock/regular aftermarket exhaust manifold i.e megan? Obviously a custom midpipe would be needed ... I feel ok using a KO3 from an audi/vw because of the reliabilty of the cars, i assume the final output would not compare to the garrett unit that cali is running though correct?

ok here goes the dummy picture....

Not sure if I fully understand, but I think you don't have quite the right idea of how a turbo setup works, it took me a while to wrap my brain around the idea too :biggrin:

There's no percentage of the exhaust that goes back to the engine, it all goes out the exhaust. But, there are in fact 2 turbines connected together, one for the exhaust (where the flow of exhaust gases make the impeller spin), and one for the intake (where the spinning impeller causes the actual compression of incoming gases), the exhaust and intake streams do not mix, ever!!!

Where I think you are getting the percentage confusion is with the use of a wastegate, because this does split up the compressed air flow, in order to control the amount of boost that the compressor creates. But, the amount of exhaust gases that is not being used just goes back out to the exhaust, it either rejoins the main exhaust line, or on some high powered applications, has its own smaller diameter exhaust all the way...

Some good information:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger

[largeorangefont]

yeah, K04s pull hard, i was tuning a friends S4, 2.8 FATS(3rd gear pull from 2500-redline in seconds i believe) Full interior and everything


If K03 spools too early on the yaris for youre liking, K04 is a nice upgrade


On a non intercooled turbo setup there is no such thing as spooling too early. There is no reason for a large turbo with that type of setup.

[Nexus1155]

if i recall somewhere that if you have too much torque low end, you will throw a rod.... I thought that was just too much torque anywhere in the power band at all, but thats just me?

[Tamago]

if i recall somewhere that if you have too much torque low end, you will throw a rod.... I thought that was just too much torque anywhere in the power band at all, but thats just me?

of course if you have too much torque anywhere you'll throw a rod ;)

but the low end (under 3500rpm) is danger zone. this is why nitrous should not be applied low in the rev range

[Tamago]

Get a take off from a WRX,

remember if you use a subaru (top mount) turbo and try to mount it upside-down you'll need to turn the center cartridge to correct your oil flow path.. you should flow the oil top to bottom

i'm using the hotside from a JDM Legacy GT and the coldside from a WRX (USDM) and spool is excellent.

[largeorangefont]

if i recall somewhere that if you have too much torque low end, you will throw a rod.... I thought that was just too much torque anywhere in the power band at all, but thats just me?

5 lbs of boost is not enough to do anything. If you are going to leave it non intercooled you want something that will hit 5 lbs as soon as early as possible and be able to hold it to redline. We can get into compressor maps, A/R housings etc. here if we want to get technical, but basically getting a turbo off a similar sized engine is a very safe bet.

If you put a GT30 or larger on the car you would not see any boost until near redline, which would be a total waste.

[largeorangefont]

remember if you use a subaru (top mount) turbo and try to mount it upside-down you'll need to turn the center cartridge to correct your oil flow path.. you should flow the oil top to bottom

i'm using the hotside from a JDM Legacy GT and the coldside from a WRX (USDM) and spool is excellent.

Agreed, and good point.

If you mount it as Richard pictured, in the OEM airbox location, you could leave it as is.

[Russelt3hPirate]

this thread makes my head hurt.

anyone with ANY questions about a turbo setup needs to buy "Maximum Boost" and stop listening to their friends.

:facepalm:

[ddongbap]

this thread makes my head hurt.

anyone with ANY questions about a turbo setup needs to buy "Maximum Boost" and stop listening to their friends.

:facepalm:
LOLOOOOLO. x2.