AMSOIL vs Royal Purple [Archive] - Toyota Yaris Forums

IllusionX

11-25-2008, 08:50 PM

Guys.. i need your opinions... I have switched from mobile1 synthetic to royal purple ~7000km ago. I will be doing another oil change this week, at the 7000km mark. I know i'm a little anal about oil change (i used to do it at 6000km). I will be putting Royal purple again, as i already about the 4quarts...

I'm actually thinking.. what the hell~~ I guess any oil will do as long as i'm not using motomaster NUGOLD oil... lol

mikenacarato

11-25-2008, 08:52 PM

im a royal purple fan. ive used both in my bike and choose the purple over amsoil, however i have not used amsoil products in my cars but have used purple.

bdc87

11-25-2008, 09:44 PM

I use the purple, I've used 1 and castrol, the purple is royal.

PetersRedYaris

11-25-2008, 09:46 PM

AMS, accept no substitutes...

upgradedyaris

11-25-2008, 09:53 PM

I would go in detailed tech mode but I think this thread would get locked with the "other" guy jumping in. LOL To keep it short, Amsoil is the way to go.

Klink10

11-25-2008, 09:55 PM

Try both...do a UOA on both and see which is the better performer. Post results.

craigq

11-25-2008, 10:27 PM

I'm actually thinking.. what the hell~~ I guess any oil will do as long as i'm not using motomaster NUGOLD oil... lol

I'd use it, and it's on sale this week too :laugh:

Kaotic Lazagna

11-25-2008, 11:00 PM

I've tried both, and let me just say that I'm sticking to Amsoil.

SilverGlow

11-25-2008, 11:05 PM

Use the synthetic that's on sale. Either one will allow your engine to last through 300,000+ miles. In addition, it is a waste of $$ to not extend your oil changes if you go with synthetic. However if your car is still under warranty, I would not go more then what the manual states. After the car is out of warranty, then go with synthetic and the oil should be good for at least 7,000 to 10,000 miles, depending on how you drive, where you drive, and the brand of oil.

At the end of the day, you can put the "worse" synthetic oil in your car, and it will still pull strong at 300,000+ miles...this is something no one really wants to admit because for most, oil is "religion" and their preferences are more found in very subjective reasons, devoid of scientific back up. ;-)

Before you change out a particular brand, do a UOA and use that as a base line when trying other oils, or you could just get what's on sale and call it a day.

Split

11-25-2008, 11:25 PM

i've always heard that AMSoil is the best because its a group(grade?) 4-5 blend which is the best you can get apparently. That said, the only reason I bother running it is because my friend gets it for wholesale price at the dealership he works for so its no more expensive for me than mobil1/royal-purple/etc.

SilverGlow

11-26-2008, 02:51 AM

pinoypizzaboy

11-26-2008, 02:56 AM

never tried RP i herd its good stuff. i use amsoil for my yaris:cool:

jambo101

11-26-2008, 04:09 AM

I find Mobil1 works just fine for my little Yaris commuter,i dont believe in throwing lots of money into specialty oils when the car was never designed for high performance so no need for high performance oils,anyway it will be traded for a newer car at 5yrs or 175k whatever comes first.

1stToyota

11-26-2008, 08:40 AM

Amsoil. You can't go wrong with the best and most complete product line. :thumbup:

1stToyota

11-26-2008, 08:47 AM

Use the synthetic that's on sale.

Okay. :smile:

I can get Amsoil XL for just over $5 and HP for around $6.50 with my preferred customer discount, when I buy it by the case.

And that's a better price than what I'd have to pay at the parts store that I have an account with:

Val SynPower $5.49
LubroMoly $8.80
Castrol Syntec $7.49
Lucas $7.49
Mobil1 $7.99
Mobil1 XP $8.99
PP $6.89
RP $8.49

Chupacabra

11-26-2008, 09:46 AM

SOOOOOO many people jump on the Amsoil bus it's unbelievable. You are gaining nothing by using it in a Yaris. I would use the best priced synthetic I could find and be done with it....

1stToyota

11-26-2008, 09:58 AM

SOOOOOO many people jump on the Amsoil bus it's unbelievable. You are gaining nothing by using it in a Yaris. I would use the best priced synthetic I could find and be done with it....

My last car was a GTO, it had an engine in it. My Yaris has a engine in it too. The GTO had piston slap, the Yaris has overhead cams. Junk-bulk oil probably would get me extra wear metals in either engine. No thanks.

Chupacabra

11-26-2008, 10:56 AM

My last car was a GTO, it had an engine in it. My Yaris has a engine in it too. The GTO had piston slap, the Yaris has overhead cams. Junk-bulk oil probably would get me extra wear metals in either engine. No thanks.

Junk-bulk oil? Mobil 1 synthetic is junk-bulk oil? They are the factory fill on what cars?.....oh nevermind?

AMSOIL is a waste of money on a Yaris and you would be better served buying more expensive gasoline with detergents (Shell).

1stToyota

11-26-2008, 12:19 PM

Junk-bulk oil? Mobil 1 synthetic is junk-bulk oil? They are the factory fill on what cars?.....oh nevermind?

AMSOIL is a waste of money on a Yaris and you would be better served buying more expensive gasoline with detergents (Shell).

Spending $3 more for Mobil1, over Amsoil XL, and $2.50 more for Mobil1 XP, over Amsoil HP would be the silliest thing I could ever do, imo. No thanks. Shell in my area is cheap and 10% ethanol, I stay away from it.

btw, Yes Mobil1 is factory fill in cars like my GTO. At the time, seems like most owners I knew made the switch to Amsoil and RP.....oh well.

IllusionX

11-26-2008, 12:21 PM

wow.. 2 pages of replies in a night :)
thanks guys.. i will stick with RP then.

I've been using mobile1 in my echo. and my change interval was 8000km (5000miles) and i found the oil filter was kinda heavy for my liking. So, i change it sooner depending on my driving for that period of time. I sure should do an UOA... but what the hell...

I will change this time.. and i guess i'll do the next when i reach 8000km see how it goes. Also, there were still a bit of left over from the old mobile1 when i last changed it. I dumped a whole quart of fresh mobile1 to clean out the used oil before switching to RP...

Chupacabra

11-26-2008, 12:23 PM

Well...if you pay less for the Amsoil then that's different.

What's wrong with 10% ethanol? What percentage of ethanol is in the gas you buy now?

1stToyota

11-26-2008, 12:31 PM

Well...if you pay less for the Amsoil then that's different.

What's wrong with 10% ethanol? What percentage of ethanol is in the gas you buy now?

There's a top-tier station 2 blocks from my house, 0% ethanol.

Chupacabra

11-26-2008, 12:33 PM

What's wrong with ethanol in the yaris?

elmo

11-26-2008, 01:16 PM

What's wrong with ethanol in the yaris?

could be wrong but i have heard that 10% E will cut 10 to 15% on your MPG
i don't know that because we only got the 10% E here

1stToyota

11-26-2008, 03:34 PM

What's wrong with ethanol in the yaris?

Why do they put it in there? They can keep it.

Chupacabra

11-26-2008, 03:53 PM

Why do they put it in there? They can keep it.

Politics.....why else does anything get put into anything (politics and money) but my point is...there is no benefit really unless you can obtain the other fuel for equal cost. Of course, your perogative is fine but I was hoping you might be able to show me some benefits.

IllusionX

11-26-2008, 06:34 PM

please, make new thread about E instead of polluting my thread. Gotta keep it green right ?

:)

Kaotic Lazagna

11-26-2008, 08:49 PM

Mobil 1 has changed their formula, which is why a bunch of people stopped using them. Nonetheless, it is still synthetic, which is better than dino-oil. :smile:

jamal1984

11-26-2008, 09:41 PM

i got a 1992 Corolla, I hardly use expensive oil like Amsoil or Purple. I only used the Full Synthetic that's either Mobil 1 or BOGO promotion at Advance auto part or anything that is Full Synthetic while it's on sale. The car is at 200K, hardly got any problems just rotate switch oil at 3k, keep up with the Maintenance and it's ok.
Using royal purple on my yaris now, i don't see any differences.
I think as long as you keep up with the maintence and use full sys, it's will be the same. It's a yaris.

Chupacabra

11-27-2008, 09:52 AM

TheSilkySmooth

11-27-2008, 11:51 AM

Mobil 1 has changed their formula, which is why a bunch of people stopped using them. Nonetheless, it is still synthetic, which is better than dino-oil. :smile: No it is not MAybe only M1-EP and there is no confirmation on this. AND you DO NOT WANT A PAO synthetic for warm climate use - it has POOR lubricating ability - just good flow. NOT the tradeoff you want. And ALL ILSAC/API SM pec oils are marginal at best. You need a AECA A3/B3. Porsche pulled M1 from factory fill as it would NOT stay in grade and SM has reduced the wear additives to save a catalytic converter for 150K miles. Wow, a blown engine and good catalytic converter in 3 years? Screw this compromise - talk about Scylla et Charybdis:iono: GOOD oils are: ELF Excellium, FUCHs,Silkolene, MOTUL 300V. NOT M1, Pennziol, Valvoline or what a joke castrol ( BP) A FAKE synthetic that started all this: Gee, it;s OK to call a "mineral oil" a synthetic - screw Jon Q Pubic - he's a dumbass anyhow.

- Sonja's bro

1stToyota

11-28-2008, 09:35 AM

No it is not MAybe only M1-EP and there is no confirmation on this. AND you DO NOT WANT A PAO synthetic for warm climate use - it has POOR lubricating ability - just good flow. NOT the tradeoff you want. And ALL ILSAC/API SM pec oils are marginal at best. You need a AECA A3/B3. Porsche pulled M1 from factory fill as it would NOT stay in grade and SM has reduced the wear additives to save a catalytic converter for 150K miles. Wow, a blown engine and good catalytic converter in 3 years? Screw this compromise - talk about Scylla et Charybdis:iono: GOOD oils are: ELF Excellium, FUCHs,Silkolene, MOTUL 300V. NOT M1, Pennziol, Valvoline or what a joke castrol ( BP) A FAKE synthetic that started all this: Gee, it;s OK to call a "mineral oil" a synthetic - screw Jon Q Pubic - he's a dumbass anyhow.

- Sonja's bro

That's why I switched to Amsoil HP (AECA A5/B5) for less than I'd have to pay for Mobil1, RP, RedLine, LubroMoly, MOTUL, etc...and I'm not sure which or if any of them are rated A5/B5.

Yeah, it's just a Yaris, but it'll probably outlast anything that I've ever owned.

TheSilkySmooth

11-28-2008, 10:06 AM

That's why I switched to Amsoil HP (AECA A5/B5) for less than I'd have to pay for Mobil1, RP, RedLine, LubroMoly, MOTUL, etc...and I'm not sure which or if any of them are rated A5/B5.

Yeah, it's just a Yaris, but it'll probably outlast anything that I've ever owned. 1st - I have not been to Pep Boys - do they sell any synth amsoils there? Or just the Mineral group 2i and 3? my local garage has amsoil but only if they do OC and big $$ at that. Otherwize most (virtual) local motorsports retailers carry a couple good bransd of oil. Someone said LTB motorsports?

1stToyota

11-28-2008, 10:56 AM

1st - I have not been to Pep Boys - do they sell any synth amsoils there? Or just the Mineral group 2i and 3? my local garage has amsoil but only if they do OC and big $$ at that. Otherwize most (virtual) local motorsports retailers carry a couple good bransd of oil. Someone said LTB motorsports?

I just pick up the Amsoil at a warehouse that's on my way to work.

SilverGlow

11-28-2008, 06:49 PM

No it is not MAybe only M1-EP and there is no confirmation on this. AND you DO NOT WANT A PAO synthetic for warm climate use - it has POOR lubricating ability - just good flow. NOT the tradeoff you want. And ALL ILSAC/API SM pec oils are marginal at best. You need a AECA A3/B3. Porsche pulled M1 from factory fill as it would NOT stay in grade and SM has reduced the wear additives to save a catalytic converter for 150K miles. Wow, a blown engine and good catalytic converter in 3 years? Screw this compromise - talk about Scylla et Charybdis:iono: GOOD oils are: ELF Excellium, FUCHs,Silkolene, MOTUL 300V. NOT M1, Pennziol, Valvoline or what a joke castrol ( BP) A FAKE synthetic that started all this: Gee, it;s OK to call a "mineral oil" a synthetic - screw Jon Q Pubic - he's a dumbass anyhow.

- Sonja's bro

Your claims have no bases in fact. None.

In addition, the thousands of UOA's with M1 and Pennziol Plat say you are dead wrong. The wear metals are super duper low, and often not much higher then AMSOIL, which is perhaps the best one can buy.

And NOBODY has ever had a blown engine using M1.

It is your type that propagates internet myths and urban legends...you turn your subjective opinions into "fact", and I just hope most of the readers of this thread see this.

TheSilkySmooth

11-28-2008, 07:33 PM

Your claims have no bases in fact. None.

In addition, the thousands of UOA's with M1 and Pennziol Plat say you are dead wrong. The wear metals are super duper low, and often not much higher then AMSOIL, which is perhaps the best one can buy.

And NOBODY has ever had a blown engine using M1.

It is your type that propagates internet myths and urban legends...you turn your subjective opinions into "fact", and I just hope most of the readers of this thread see this. Oh, thats just what you did propagate myths with no factual information. EG: "NO one has ever blown a motor on M1" Just simple statistics will tell you this statement is WRONG and I personally know 3 people who junked their motors on m1. Thats why GM and Porsche ditched m1 as factory fill - since it works so freaking good. Blame the API and the Feds though, they are the ones who reduced/removed the PROVEN extreme pressure anti-seize additive package so cats would live 150K miles without clogging at the expense piston and cam wear. Just go talk to the mechanic who have blown motors laying outside the dealership about chewed up cams and pistons with scored and collapsed skirts. Subaru, Mitsi, Chevy have MAJOR problems with piston slap now - but good statistical data is "covered up" because the industry is trying to deal with the issue "quietly", If you dig enough you will find API powerpoints online thats show you whats going on. If you run current spec "emissions" SM oil in a classic engine it will be all done in a few thousand miles - check resto sites - the mechanics are frantic. Run it in a VW Audi Porsche and you void the warranty. Good stuff, huh?

And you are a Mobil rep too right? - the MAN ... the MAn in Brown?

Every runs their favorite team so nothing I say will change that. Live and learn the hard way guys.

sonjas bro

TheSilkySmooth

11-28-2008, 07:36 PM

Some guy here has recent GTO v8 that has trashed pistons - If dont recall his userid ... ... Wht was he running?

1stToyota

11-29-2008, 09:42 AM

Some guy here has recent GTO v8 that has trashed pistons - If dont recall his userid ... ... Wht was he running?

I don't know if you're thinking of me but my super-duper low mileage '05 GTO had lots of piston-slap and wear metals, and I used M1 and M1 XP more often than not...on 3k OCI. :thumbdown:

1stToyota

11-29-2008, 09:44 AM

And NOBODY has ever had a blown engine using M1.

It is your type that propagates internet myths and urban legends...you turn your subjective opinions into "fact", and I just hope most of the readers of this thread see this.

Wrong. Installed a new motor for a guy that had a blown motor in his chevy p/u; he used M1 on every single OC.

SilverGlow

11-29-2008, 03:32 PM

Oh, thats just what you did propagate myths with no factual information. EG: "NO one has ever blown a motor on M1" Just simple statistics will tell you this statement is WRONG and I personally know 3 people who junked their motors on m1. Thats why GM and Porsche ditched m1 as factory fill - since it works so freaking good. Blame the API and the Feds though, they are the ones who reduced/removed the PROVEN extreme pressure anti-seize additive package so cats would live 150K miles without clogging at the expense piston and cam wear. Just go talk to the mechanic who have blown motors laying outside the dealership about chewed up cams and pistons with scored and collapsed skirts. Subaru, Mitsi, Chevy have MAJOR problems with piston slap now - but good statistical data is "covered up" because the industry is trying to deal with the issue "quietly", If you dig enough you will find API powerpoints online thats show you whats going on. If you run current spec "emissions" SM oil in a classic engine it will be all done in a few thousand miles - check resto sites - the mechanics are frantic. Run it in a VW Audi Porsche and you void the warranty. Good stuff, huh?

And you are a Mobil rep too right? - the MAN ... the MAn in Brown?

Every runs their favorite team so nothing I say will change that. Live and learn the hard way guys.

sonjas bro

I just forwarded your lies to Pennzoil legal department, same for Mobil Oil. Now lets see you show your "proof" because you are damaging their reputation with no credible facts.

And no, I don't work for any oil company. I actually use Walmart's SuperTech cheapo full synthetic...

You better get a lawyer fast. I saved the cache of this thread too.

SilverGlow

11-29-2008, 03:34 PM

Wrong. Installed a new motor for a guy that had a blown motor in his chevy p/u; he used M1 on every single OC.

That is not proof! Did you attend college? You have yet to show any proof that the blown engine was caused by Mobil1. You like to spew macho automotive lies. Lets hope the readers of this thread see past your bravado bunk...

1stToyota

11-29-2008, 04:07 PM

That is not proof! Did you attend college? You have yet to show any proof that the blown engine was caused by Mobil1. You like to spew macho automotive lies. Lets hope the readers of this thread see past your bravado bunk...

Troll, the engine damage was oil related, and he used Mobil1, that's all I know about the customer and what the engine rebuilder claimed about the core.

1stToyota

11-29-2008, 04:13 PM

I just forwarded your lies to Pennzoil legal department, same for Mobil Oil. Now lets see you show your "proof" because you are damaging their reputation with no credible facts.

And no, I don't work for any oil company. I actually use Walmart's SuperTech cheapo full synthetic...

You better get a lawyer fast. I saved the cache of this thread too.

You do realize that the new SM rating was created to replace the old SL rating that contained too much friction modifiers:eyebulge: ...wow, protect those cats...[pause]...with a reduction in those engine friendly friction modifiers!! :rolleyes:

I may be wrong, but I believe that's the point being made by thesilkysmooth, which is btw based on fact.

ps You're not STILL using 0w-20 in your 1NZ-FE Yaris, or are you? Probably voiding your warranty since you chose to ignore Toyota's TSB.

TheSilkySmooth

12-02-2008, 01:33 PM

TheSilkySmooth

12-02-2008, 01:35 PM

MOBIL 1 SUCKS DONKEY

Actually, I am running the Mobil CLEAN 5000 for break-in in my Yaris which is just about complete. Yes, I have not been a MOBIL fan of late, but this oil seems reasonable. It may need a little BOOST around 3K which I do in the way of draining a litre then topping off with fresh. That way the add-pack is replenished and you are good to go to the 5000.