Installing a remote starter without cutting factory wires?

[yaris08ce]

Is it possible to install a remote starter without cutting any of the factory wires? Are there after-market harnesses available that would plug into the existing connections?

[yaris08ce]

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

[sportin83]

most of the time you do not cut the wiring. you simple strip the covering back and twist wire around and solder and tape the connection. or you can use t-taps but not as reliable as solder.

[IsLNdbOi]

It's not a high end audio system. Just use t-taps. As long as the taps are closed tightly with pliers, you're good to go. They're not coming off unless someone physically pulls the t-taps open.

[Tamago]

It's not a high end audio system. Just use t-taps. As long as the taps are closed tightly with pliers, you're good to go. They're not coming off unless someone physically pulls the t-taps open.

when installing a remote starter you MUST cut main ignition and ACC wires..

please do not use T taps, please twist/solder these connections. you will also have to run an independent battery signal to the remote start unit. use a wire heavy enough to support the starting process (8GA recommended)

[IllusionX]

8GA to send a signal to the starter? are you serious ?

[Tamago]

8GA to send a signal to the starter? are you serious ?

if you don't know how to wire a remote starter you have no idea what i'm talking about:wink:

[sportin83]

depending on the car but most of the time you do not need to run a new power wire. and the only wire you would cut would be a starter wire if doing anti-grind or starter kill. otherwise you would just strip the jacket off wire and twist solder and tape. do not use any butt connectors or t taps, not reliable over time will corrode or rattle loose.

[CTScott]

You don't have to cut any wires - Use tap splices as mentioned. Also, the wire gauge is 16-18 on all of the wires, as our keyswitch is a control circuit, not a power circuit as on many older vehicles. Our keyswitch powers a relay coil, where the relay's contacts then do the high current switching.

The only reason to cut wires would be if you wanted to have the anti-grind feature, which disables the starter when the car has been started by the remote starter. This keeps you remote starting, then getting in the car and accidentally cranking the starter. When I install remote starters on my own cars, I don't bother with the anti-grind feature, but always use it on my wife's car.

[Tamago]

You don't have to cut any wires - Use tap splices as mentioned. Also, the wire gauge is 16-18 on all of the wires, as our keyswitch is a control circuit, not a power circuit as on many older vehicles. Our keyswitch powers a relay coil, where the relay's contacts then do the high current switching.

The only reason to cut wires would be if you wanted to have the anti-grind feature, which disables the starter when the car has been started by the remote starter. This keeps you remote starting, then getting in the car and accidentally cranking the starter. When I install remote starters on my own cars, I don't bother with the anti-grind feature, but always use it on my wife's car.

so you basically don't have any sort of security built in to the alarms you install? without cutting the ignition wire, all your alarm is is a noise maker.. thief jumps in and drives away because you didn't use an the ignition kill circuit?

[CTScott]

so you basically don't have any sort of security built in to the alarms you install? without cutting the ignition wire, all your alarm is is a noise maker.. thief jumps in and drives away because you didn't use an the ignition kill circuit?

My Yaris doesn't have an alarm, but it does have the engine immobilizer, which uses the tansponder key. This is basically the same thing as having an ignition kill switch. The column is still locked without the key as well.

All of these things are easily bypassed by a car theif who knows what he is doing. I don't think that the remote starter makes the car any easier to steal though.

[Tamago]

My Yaris doesn't have an alarm, but it does have the engine immobilizer, which uses the tansponder key. This is basically the same thing as having an ignition kill switch. The column is still locked without the key as well.

All of these things are easily bypassed by a car theif who knows what he is doing. I don't think that the remote starter makes the car any easier to steal though.

if the install is done right, hopping in and driving away will take at least 3-4 minutes instead of just seconds.. removing enough of the ignition wire and relocating the new "tapping point" deep into the firewall means the thief HAS to pull your dash to steal your car..

[yaris08ce]

Thanks for all the replies. The t-tap connectors look like they'll do the job.

If I had this installed in-store (e.g. Visions), would they cut the wire or use t-tap connectors? I'm guessing it would be up to my preference?

[CTScott]

Thanks for all the replies. The t-tap connectors look like they'll do the job.

If I had this installed in-store (e.g. Visions), would they cut the wire or use t-tap connectors? I'm guessing it would be up to my preference?

I'm not sure, as I've always installed them myself. I have done them both with the taps and by soldering.

I have never had a tap fail, but I always wrap the taps with electrical tape to make sure that the flap stays down.

[manborn]

i've installed the AST ultrastart 1155tl but are having the following issues:

1. could not locate green wire for PARKING LIGHTS in driver kick
panel, there were 2 greens - 1 (thinner wire) for o.e.m. factory
keyless unlock, while there was no voltage detected in the other
(thicker wire) when activated by remote. also checked grey(according
to yaris forums) wire in kick panel as well but no luck.

2. with factory default settings - pressed unlock or lock in remote 3
times within 3 secs but was unsuccessful with remote start.

3. remote start unit came only with purple (+) start in the 14 pin
power connector which i attached to the green o.e.m. factory keyless
disarm by the driver side kick panel, although this green wire seems
to be (+) and not (-) as indicated in the omega wiring sheet which
said it should work but did not.

I can successfully reset the remote start to factory default setting.
It also seems to be able to tach learn as well. See attached wiring setup
used.

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/1079/1155tlyariss.png

any input would be appreciated.

[CTScott]

i've installed the AST ultrastart 1155tl but are having the following issues:

1. could not locate green wire for PARKING LIGHTS in driver kick
panel, there were 2 greens - 1 (thinner wire) for o.e.m. factory
keyless unlock, while there was no voltage detected in the other
(thicker wire) when activated by remote. also checked grey(according
to yaris forums) wire in kick panel as well but no luck.

2. with factory default settings - pressed unlock or lock in remote 3
times within 3 secs but was unsuccessful with remote start.

3. remote start unit came only with purple (+) start in the 14 pin
power connector which i attached to the green o.e.m. factory keyless
disarm by the driver side kick panel, although this green wire seems
to be (+) and not (-) as indicated in the omega wiring sheet which
said it should work but did not.

I can successfully reset the remote start to factory default setting.
It also seems to be able to tach learn as well. See attached wiring setup
used.

any input would be appreciated.


1. For the parking lights, I used Pin 13 (white wire on the bottom left end) on the headlight dimmer switch connector D4.

2. Probably won't start yet because of the tach learn not being programmed.

Verify the position in the OBDII connector (note that 07 and 09 have a different wire color there, but function is the same):

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/TachWire.jpg


3. For lock and unlock, here are the correct wires:

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/DoorLock-Unlock.jpg

[manborn]

i will double check on the tach learn but according to the remote start manual i got the proper confirmation signals, 3 honks. i will check if it is the same location as yours. i got mine from an unused connector somewhat below the left driver comparement(for coins or whatever) w/c is below the cup holder.

do you have a picture of pin 13 - parking lights?

here's what i followed from the remote start itself- http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/756/1155tl.jpg

thanks!

[CTScott]

Here's the parking light pic:

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/ParkLightWire.jpg


When you hit the remote start button, what is happening (does it crank, just flash lights, etc)?

[manborn]

pic link is broken, can you repost please? also found this from another thread

I think I got it. I'll need to go pickup a couple of relays in the morning.

One more question for the night. This package came with a relay satellite module that I have yet to install. It looks like the meat of the starter portion of the setup. I just want to verify where these wires go before I start cutting.
PURPLE (+) starter output: After cutting the starter wire connect the PURPLE wire to the end going to the starter motor.
This goes to the harness side of D8/Pin7 (Black)

GREEN starter kill: After cutting the starter wire connect the GREEN wire to the end going to the key side of the ignition.
This goes to the switch side of D8/Pin7 (Black)

RED (2) (+)12V input for relays: These wires are the source of current for all the circuits the relay satellite will energize. They must be connected to a high current source. Since the factory supplies (+) 12V to the key switch that is used to operate the motor, it is recommended that these wires be connected there. NOTE: If the factory supplies two separate (+) 12V feeds to the ignition switch, connect one RED wire of the satellite to each feed at the switch.
These 2 will go to D8/Pin5 (Grey) & D8/Pin4 (Yellow)

ORANGE (+) accessory output: Connect this wire to the accessory wire in the vehicle that powers the climate control system.
This will go to D8/Pin2 (white)

PINK (+) ignition output: Connect this wire to the ignition wire in the vehicle.
This will go to D8/Pin1 (Green)

PINK/WHITE (+) output to second ignition/accessory circuit: Connect this wire to the second ignition or accessory wire in the vehicle (selectable menu feature 2-9).
This will go to D8/Pin6 (Pink)

RED/WHITE 12 V input: If additional current capacity is needed cut this wire, add a fuse adequate for the circuit to be supplied, and connect to an additional 12V source.
Not to sure about this one. Is it even needed?

is my ignition 12v and ignition 2 flipped or is his wrong?

oh, what is happening, well...
i was really hoping the LED on remote start would blinking like it's suppose to when it recieves the signal from the oem keyless remote presses but nothing. nothing is happening except my doors lock or unlock depending on what button i press. suppose to be 3 unlock presses within 3 seconds for remote start.

[CTScott]

pic link is broken, can you repost please? also found this from another thread



is my ignition 12v and ignition 2 flipped or is his wrong?

oh, what is happening, well...
i was really hoping the LED on remote start would blinking like it's suppose to when it recieves the signal from the oem keyless remote presses but nothing. nothing is happening except my doors lock or unlock depending on what button i press. suppose to be 3 unlock presses within 3 seconds for remote start.

OK. I updated the pic in the last post.

Ignition is 12V.

Pink is Ignition.
Green is Ignition #2
Blacks are starter

[manborn]

thanks for the pictures!

i have the correct connections for the above. troubleshooted with ultrastart support in CA, guy found i had my start wire for the remote start in the wrong harness slot, moved it. supplying 12v+ 3 times activated starter. then just had to take that wire an applied it to my door unlock which was on the most bottom harness in the kick panel fat light blue(12+). http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/1659/dsc01571medium.jpgtested unlock switch 3 times, started. tested unlock in remote 3 times, started.

i thought i connected the brake light so if i step on it when the auto started it would turn off but no. is the trunk wire same as the hood wire? seems that there is no sensor when the hood is open but there is for the trunk. i might have to use the autostart's hood toggle switch which had a perfect mounting hole above the battery that can get hit when the hood is closed. here's a pic but i have not wired it yet.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5899/dsc01578large.png

[manborn]

Here's the parking light pic:

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/ParkLightWire.jpg



was looking for the positive parking light

[CTScott]

thanks for the pictures!

i have the correct connections for the above. troubleshooted with ultrastart support in CA, guy found i had my start wire for the remote start in the wrong harness slot, moved it. supplying 12v+ 3 times activated starter. then just had to take that wire an applied it to my door unlock which was on the most bottom harness in the kick panel fat light blue(12+). tested unlock switch 3 times, started. tested unlock in remote 3 times, started.

i thought i connected the brake light so if i step on it when the auto started it would turn off but no. is the trunk wire same as the hood wire? seems that there is no sensor when the hood is open but there is for the trunk. i might have to use the autostart's hood toggle switch which had a perfect mounting hole above the battery that can get hit when the hood is closed. will post pics later.


Trunk and hood are separate. The hood switch is only present when the factory alarm is installed, otherwise you have to add the pin switch included with the remote starter.

The brake switch is either of the green wires on the connector just above the brake pedal. You can't use the brake lights, as the remote starters want a ground on brake.

[CTScott]

was looking for the positive parking light

I used the parking light (-) output, but from another post:

Parking Lights+ green + fuse box, top L, 30 pin plug, pin 29

[manborn]

Trunk and hood are separate. The hood switch is only present when the factory alarm is installed, otherwise you have to add the pin switch included with the remote starter.

The brake switch is either of the green wires on the connector just above the brake pedal. You can't use the brake lights, as the remote starters want a ground on brake.

that would be PERFECT since i have the toyota rs3200 factory alarm w/c means i should have a wire for the hood pin but where is it? there doesn't seem to be any pin/switch for the hood. the dash does not have any indication if the hood is open when it's open just the trunk.

[manborn]

I used the parking light (-) output, but from another post:

Parking Lights+ green + fuse box, top L, 30 pin plug, pin 29

found on another post, Brake Switch - Light Green - At Switch Above Brake Pedal

did you mean park lights is a green wire, by the fuse box, top left...?

[CTScott]

i have the toyota rs3200 factory alarm, there doesn't seem to be any switches for the hood. the dash does not have any indication if the hood is open when it's open just the trunk.

Interesting. In the hood latch, there is a place for a hood switch (which is mentioned in the 09 service manual). Maybe it's a newer addition to the RS3200?

[CTScott]

found on another post, Brake Switch - Light Green - At Switch Above Brake Pedal

did you mean park lights is a green wire, by the fuse box, top left...?



Correct on both - Brake switch is either green wire on the connector on top of the brake pedal, and parking lights (+ output) is the light green wire in terminal 29 of the 30 pin connector 4A on the top left of the under-dash fuse panel:

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/FuseBox-sm.jpg

[manborn]

brake switch was easy but odd, i had a choice of blue or green(what happened to light green?)going to the same socket. tapped green, now brake turns the engine off if key is not in prior.
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8744/dsc01577large2.png

i'm now convinced that all yaris are not made equal. that some unlock wires are green and others (like mine) is blue-green/light blue, whatever. who knows what color my lock wire is, will soon find out.

took a look at 4a and it's buried. cut zip tie and thought that was it but 4a is covered by a release lock, when unlock it disengages the harness. even if i had it removed, just no room to move unless you can fit both your hands inside the drivers left compartment below the cup holder. i think i will have to give the parking lights up

now to locate those rs3200 rearm/disarm wires which are supposed to be 500ma outputs - low current and are designed to activate relays.

[CTScott]

brake switch was easy but odd, i had a choice of blue or green(what happened to light green?)going to the same socket. tapped green, now brake turns the engine off if key is not in prior.

i'm now convinced that all yaris are not made equal. that some unlock wires are green and others (like mine) is blue-green/light blue, whatever. who knows what color my lock wire is, will soon find out.

took a look at 4a and it's buried. cut zip tie and thought that was it but 4a is covered by a release lock, when unlock it disengages the harness. even if i had it removed, just no room to move unless you can fit both your hands inside the drivers left compartment below the cup holder. i think i will have to give the parking lights up

now to locate those rs3200 rearm/disarm wires which are supposed to be 500ma outputs - low current and are designed to activate relays. will post pics.


Mine wanted a parking light + as well. After struggling with the space to work and tightness of the wires at 4A, I decided to just invert my output with a relay and use the easily accessible parking light - at the headlight switch connector.

With the lock and unlock wires, 07 vs 08-09 have different colors in the kick panel. Position is the same, but wire colors are different.

[manborn]

Mine wanted a parking light + as well. After struggling with the space to work and tightness of the wires at 4A, I decided to just invert my output with a relay and use the easily accessible parking light - at the headlight switch connector.

With the lock and unlock wires, 07 vs 08-09 have different colors in the kick panel. Position is the same, but wire colors are different.

im 07, just looking for those rs3200 rearm/disarm wires now. i might have to trace the beep noise from when i press the keyless remote and see where it leads me. thank you.

[CTScott]

im 07, just looking for those rs3200 rearm/disarm wires now. i might have to trace the beep noise from when i press the keyless remote and see where it leads me. thank you.

I have the manuals and EWD's for the 2006-2008 RS3200. PM me an email address and I'll shoot them to you...

[manborn]

pm'ed, thanks!

[yarisquacks]

I just bought a 2009 Yaris sedan without keyless entry, i failed to ask before we did all the paperwork at the dealer and assumed all cars with power locks and power windows came with keyless entry and alarm. I was very wrong. Well my question is who here has gotten an aftermarket alarm installed and what i need to know before they install! For example what they need to do and not do, just to avoid any problems with the warranty! Every place that i have called tells yes, no, maybe! I dont know what to do! Thats how i came across YARISworld! Please if any techs here have any suggestions please let me know! thanks in advance!

[CTScott]

I just bought a 2009 Yaris sedan without keyless entry, i failed to ask before we did all the paperwork at the dealer and assumed all cars with power locks and power windows came with keyless entry and alarm. I was very wrong. Well my question is who here has gotten an aftermarket alarm installed and what i need to know before they install! For example what they need to do and not do, just to avoid any problems with the warranty! Every place that i have called tells yes, no, maybe! I dont know what to do! Thats how i came across YARISworld! Please if any techs here have any suggestions please let me know! thanks in advance!

The main thing is to check around and make sure that the place you chose has a good reputation. The Yaris is by far the easiest car I've installed a remote starter/keyless entry on. All of the connection points are easily accessible. If your 09 has the engine immobilizer (which I believe is standard with the power package), then a transponder key bypass will be required. Some require surrendering one of your keys to be buried in a module under the dash. I used/prefer the Fortin transponder key bypass module, which reads a key and then pretends to be that key.

[yarisquacks]

My car doesnt come with the integrated key chip its just a regular key. From what I've been told by the dealer as that i have just the basic power package (power door locks and power windows) nothing fancy. Would you happen to know what wires they cant or shouldnt mess with? The dealer told me to tell them not to touch the ABS wires or the ECM wires i believe! I'm just worried about all the warranty issues! Oh, and one last thing theyre gonna install a trunk release module so i can open it with the remote. Thanks for your reply!

:w00t:

[CTScott]

My car doesnt come with the integrated key chip its just a regular key. From what I've been told by the dealer as that i have just the basic power package (power door locks and power windows) nothing fancy. Would you happen to know what wires they cant or shouldnt mess with? The dealer told me to tell them not to touch the ABS wires or the ECM wires i believe! I'm just worried about all the warranty issues! Oh, and one last thing theyre gonna install a trunk release module so i can open it with the remote. Thanks for your reply!

:w00t:

Any installer who knows what they are doing won't mess with any wiring that shouldn't be messed with.