DC Sports Header install and evaluation

[Loren]

Installed the DC header today. Didn't pay much attention, but it probably took about an hour, maybe a little longer. It's almost as easy as most people would have you believe, though having thin arms with more than the normal number of joints would surely help.

The fit and finish is almost perfect. More accurately, the fit is PERFECT, and the finish is about 95%. Some of the welds could be a little neater, but nothing to complain about at all. All of the stock hardware, brackets and 02 sensor fit without issue.

For those of you shopping for a quality bolt-on header, I think this is really the one you want. (at least until Richard Holdener gets his in production... but to use that one, you have to be willing to give up your catalytic convertors) Every other header I've seen for the Yaris is just a copy of the stock header with larger tubes. Maybe good for a few hp at the top end, but not much else. The DC header design combines longer primary tubes, which move the torque peak down a few hundred rpm, with larger tubes and a MUCH cleaner flow for more high-end power. The net result is more torque throughout the range. Like experienced racers have been saying since the dawn of time: horsepower sells cars, torque wins races.

No dyno results, and I probably won't ever bother getting any, but this header can be felt even at low rpm and low throttle inputs... and when you get on it at anything above 2500 rpm, it feels A LOT stronger. In short, it seems to work just exactly the way I expected it to based on its design. I'm very pleased with it.

I took some comparison photos and measurements of the stock Yaris header vs the new DC Sports header. The primary tubes of the stock header are 1-1/8″ ID, the DC header is 1-3/8″. The collector output of both of them is the same at 1-3/4″. Look at how tight the bends are on the stock header compared to the smooth flow of the DC. And the stock primaries are about 6-8″ long compared to about 14″ on the DC. And the DC header has a nice ceramic coating on it that should retain the heat for better exhaust velocity. Good stuff.

Thanks to YW member "Return of the Yarii" for giving me a great deal on this header!

[Yoda]

nice

[thewifesyaris]

Good review, this was the manifold I was looking to purchase.

This will help nudge me towards getting one.

Still need the midpipe though, wish my Greddy exhaust was cat-back, but I'll have to look into getting the nitto midpipe as well if I was to buy a manifold.

[PETERPOOP]

heard most aftermarket headers make you lose torque and minimal gains at high rpms. i'd have to see a dyno over hearsay.

[largeorangefont]

heard most aftermarket headers make you lose torque and minimal gains at high rpms. i'd have to see a dyno over hearsay.

A properly designed header will give you power gains across the RPM range.

The DC header's performance is exactly how Loren decribed it. The DC header is designed to provide low-midrange torque, as well as high RPM gains.

[Thirty-Nine]

Thanks for the write-up, Loren. When it comes time to buy a header, I'll probably go with DC, too. I used to have a DC header on my Civic back in the day.

[cali yaris]

The stock header also pinches the tubes right before the collector -- totally restrictive.

heard most aftermarket headers make you lose torque and minimal gains at high rpms.

I made 15 whp increase (on the dyno) from intake, header, pulleys and axle-back exhaust. Peterpoop, I think you are incorrect that the header didn't account for any of that gain.

[cleong]

I'm of the opinion that there's actually less low down torque (idle to 2000rpm) with the DC header, which makes the 2500rpm RPM surge more noticeable.

Losing low down torque isn't a bad thing though, it makes it smoother to drive when you're taking it easy, and when you are driving aggressively you're never in that RPM range also.

But sometimes when you're caught two gears too low, the car doesn't want to accelerate!

[Loren]

With my lightweight crankshaft pulley, I might not be noticing that so much, but you could be right. Sub-2k isn't really relevant to performance driving, anyway. :wink:

[PETERPOOP]

I made 15 whp increase (on the dyno) from intake, header, pulleys and axle-back exhaust. Peterpoop, I think you are incorrect that the header didn't account for any of that gain.

I never stated that the header doesn't give gains at higher rpms or gains at lower. I just said that I "heard" that's what most headers do.

Too many other mods involved with that dyno.

I'd like to see a bone stock yaris with a dc header and the dyno # it puts down oppossed to the stock header. And not a dyno that DC provides.

:smile:

*If I decide to put the turbo on hold I'll definately go with Richard's setup.

[Loren]

For $165, I took the gamble of not having a clear dyno chart available for this header. Instead, I did my research and looked at the design of the header and decided that it would likely provide improvements in the areas that I wanted them. I was NOT disappointed, and I wouldn't be disappointed if I spent full-retail price for it.

Do what'cha want, Peter. As far as bolt-on replacement headers for the Yaris that don't require complete replacement of the exhaust system and/or deletion of the cats... this is it.

I have a G-Tech on my desk, as soon as I get a tire fixed (picked up a piece of utility knife blade last week that ripped a 3" long gash in the tread of one of my rear tires!) I'll try to do some 0-60 runs. As I recall, last time I did that, I was able to get pretty consistent 8.2 seconds. I didn't do any testing after the crank pulley, so whatever improvement I see will be the combination of the pulley and header.

[largeorangefont]

I have a light crank pulley as well and I didn't notice any softening below 2K RPM either. In fact, off idle response was improved.

[dallas]

Loren, did you ever G-tech the header and pulley, I think thats more important than a dyno. Just do it in the same spot and at around the same outside temperature.

[YarisSedan]

I really want these headers now. Does anyone have a cheap used set for sale =).

[Grandieri]

I really want these headers now. Does anyone have a cheap used set for sale =).

I agree.Loren where did you find them for 165?

[The Spectacle]

He bought it used.

[tk-421]

I'm still torn between this and the W*R 4-2-1 header. I really don't want to lose low-end power if at all possible, and I've heard the 4-2-1 design helps in this department.

[Loren]

True, a 4-2-1 is known for providing better low-end torque, but I don't think it's possible to cram a proper 4-2-1 design into the space available. Only way to do it is to do what Richard has done and eliminate some of the mid-pipe in favor of longer header tubes.

You won't lose anything with the DC header.

[Yaris2910]

how about the header that is selling on ebay?

any comments non dc header type.....

[Loren]

Did you take the time to read my first post in this thread?

[Herbicidal]

Loren - thank you for the write up. I'm interested in a set and now I'm researching the best place to buy from. Besides that, what would you recommend for the rest of the exhaust system? Is it even worth replacing the rest? I'm looking for more torque and hp, but not at the expense of increased noise or decrease in fuel economy.

Thanks for your opinion. :thumbsup:

[gmodder]

Where can i get one of these in the US..

[Loren]

I'm still running the stock exhaust because I don't think there's much torque to gain and it's not worth it to me to put up with all the rattles and squeaks and exhaust noise of a custom exhaust, or the poor quality of a typical cheap aftermarket exhaust. When I'm at the track, I sometimes wish the car was louder, but I've gotten used to it. Any other time, I like it being quiet.

Now, don't get me wrong, there may not be much low-mid range torque to gain, but there probably is some high-end HP to gain by opening the exhaust up. Maybe as much as another 3-5 HP. It's all in how badly you want it.

Gmodder, try Google.

[cali yaris]

it's not worth it to me to put up with all the rattles and squeaks and exhaust noise of a custom exhaust, or the poor quality of a typical cheap aftermarket exhaust.

Exhaust note ok, but the exhausts I sell do not rattle or squeak and they are not of poor quality.

Meanwhile... DC Sports was acquired by another company and there are no Yaris headers in production at this time. IF you can find a company with one in stock, you'll be very lucky indeed.

Summit Racing confirmed that they are "special order", and that they have no idea when that means they might be able to get one, if ever.

[Herbicidal]

Cali Yaris - of the header(s) you sell, which would be comparable to the DC Sport version? For my situation I would prefer one that helps with low end torque. I do not take my car on the track.

Honestly I have not spent the time reviewing hp and torque dyno sheets from the various companies. Fit and finish is important as well. Thanks!

[gmodder]

Exhaust note ok, but the exhausts I sell do not rattle or squeak and they are not of poor quality.

Meanwhile... DC Sports was acquired by another company and there are no Yaris headers in production at this time. IF you can find a company with one in stock, you'll be very lucky indeed.

Summit Racing confirmed that they are "special order", and that they have no idea when that means they might be able to get one, if ever.

So which one that you have for sale do you recommend...Only running the Tanabe Medallion everything else is stock. Except for the AFE

[cali yaris]

I ran the Tanabe Medalion you have also, I really liked that exhaust. I used the Megan Racing header, worked great. Never heard of one cracking or failing. As for fit and finish, it's a nice piece. It's also back there behind the motor where no one can appreciate it. :smile:

Opening up the exhaust with a header and such will net you a few horsepower - I honestly think there is very little difference from brand to brand on our little motor.

[severous01]

i agree....theres not much to work with here. pipe sizes will all b relatively the same, and if you want a stock replacement then you definitely should be more concerned with quality than performance...

performance wise....about the only thing you can do is a custom long tube header. move the cat back, extend the wire harness, heat shield the cat and go a complete custom exhaust from there.

it's not like a v-8 car where you have shorties, mids, longtubes, cut-outs, e-cut-outs or whatever else is out there. u got one option, and thats' short for now.

[PHXDEMON]

Somewhat OT, but I have heard from a few people that headers can make your exhaust note cound like crap. Has anyone installed a header and noticed their exhaust sounding much more "ricey" ?

[Kioshi]

Meanwhile... DC Sports was acquired by another company and there are no Yaris headers in production at this time. IF you can find a company with one in stock, you'll be very lucky indeed.

Summit Racing confirmed that they are "special order", and that they have no idea when that means they might be able to get one, if ever.

I just wanted to throw this out there, ebay motors is selling the DC header for our Vitz....pricey but enough in stock. I just cant see myself paying $270+ shipping on it at the moment... I really really want one though~

[regal]

The stock header also pinches the tubes right before the collector -- totally restrictive.



I made 15 whp increase (on the dyno) from intake, header, pulleys and axle-back exhaust. Peterpoop, I think you are incorrect that the header didn't account for any of that gain.


what intake?

[NonStopTuning]

For anyone who may be looking for this header... You may want to look here...
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=366661#post366661

http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/imag/dc_sports_KA1.jpg

[cali yaris]

or here, for $269 shipped and in stock:
http://www.shop.microimageonline.com/product.sc?productId=151&categoryId=9

I just cant see myself paying $270+ shipping on it at the moment... I really really want one though~

Agreed. There is nothing magical about the DC sports header, the Megan Racing is every bit as good for nearly $100 less. And that's coming from a vendor that carries both. :thumbsup:

[NonStopTuning]

Yaris owners now have TWO awesome vendors from which to purchase the DC header!!!

NST + MI = FTW :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[DerFlosser]

how difficult is the installation?

[cali yaris]

It's not difficult and uses regular tools. Reaching behind the motor to get at the bolts is a little tedious but doable. Better if you can get up in there from underneath as well (for the two bolts that connect to the midpipe.

[Galavoxx]

Got Mine. Can't wait to install. Hopefully this adds a little juice!!

[Herbicidal]

I see that the Megan header comes with a new gasket (at least it's in the picture), does the DC?

[cali yaris]

The DC does not come with a gasket, but the Megan does!

[kngrsll]

you can reuse the gasket just fine.

[Herbicidal]

The DC does not come with a gasket, but the Megan does!

OK, so the DC header has free shipping (plus I would need to buy a gasket), the Megan does not have free shipping, so shipping and sales tax (uggh!) in CA. to 95747 for the Megan would be how much? Still trying to decide... :iono:

This may be an early b-day present to myself. :biggrin:

Thanks!

[kngrsll]

OK, so the DC header has free shipping (plus I would need to buy a gasket), the Megan does not have free shipping, so shipping and sales tax (uggh!) in CA. to 95747 for the Megan would be how much? Still trying to decide... :iono:

This may be an early b-day present to myself. :biggrin:

Thanks!

dc, hands down...

[Herbicidal]

dc, hands down...

Got your vote marked in the DC column. :thumbsup:

[cali yaris]

the Megan does not have free shipping

sure it does!

[Herbicidal]

sure it does!

Just look'n at your web site my brutha! Other items say "Free shipping" or "Free shipping on this item!", just not for the Megan header. :wink:

[bikegerm]

So do we or don't we need to purchase another exhaust gasket from toyota when we install the DC?

[Herbicidal]

I suspect that would be the correct course of action. The mating surfaces may be slightly different and it's probably cheap insurance against leaks.

[cali yaris]

Just look'n at your web site my brutha! Other items say "Free shipping" or "Free shipping on this item!", just not for the Megan header.

Well... if you bought it, you'd see there was free shipping on that too. :wink:

but I do thank you for the catch, I've added the extra text now!

[cali yaris]

I personally would never re-use a header gasket, but that's just me.

[Keith Tinari]

Somewhat OT, but I have heard from a few people that headers can make your exhaust note cound like crap. Has anyone installed a header and noticed their exhaust sounding much more "ricey" ?

header design (UEL, EL) can change the tone an exhaust has, but in this case the only thing that would really change the sound of this car is overall pipe diameter and status of the catalytic converters. When the pipe diameters dont all match up together and bottle neck you get that ricey farting with helium in your butt sound, when you lose your cats you get a raspy tone and that sounds worse when you couple it with a exhaust with uneven pipe diameters. You should try and stick to the same diameter piping as much as possible to maintain a smoother flow.

[NonStopTuning]

Talk about a thread revival!

[PHXDEMON]

dc, hands down...

Agreed. You can tell just by the pics/design that the DC is a waaaay better header.

[PHXDEMON]

header design (UEL, EL) can change the tone an exhaust has, but in this case the only thing that would really change the sound of this car is overall pipe diameter and status of the catalytic converters. When the pipe diameters dont all match up together and bottle neck you get that ricey farting with helium in your butt sound, when you lose your cats you get a raspy tone and that sounds worse when you couple it with a exhaust with uneven pipe diameters. You should try and stick to the same diameter piping as much as possible to maintain a smoother flow.

That explains why so many hondas sound like crap :laugh: Another question. Is anyone running this header with a nitto midpipe + axleback. I am afraid of dropping some torque due to lack of backpressure :iono:

[vten]

if you don't mind spending the extra $100 then get the DC...

FYI, the yaris header is really tiny , the most you'd get out of it just a matter 1 or 2 hp gain perhaps from one brand to another ....

just my 0.2cent...

[NonStopTuning]

I'm looking forward to receiving our shipment of DC Sports headers next week so that I can inspect them for myself.

They look excellent in pics and I'm sure our customers will be happy with their purchases.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[DerFlosser]

Has anybody been on a dyno after doing this modification to see what kinds of actual gains there are, if any?

[Yoda]

Sticky above^^^

[Galavoxx]

HahahHahAAAAAAA!!!

I will install over the weekend. Now I'm only missing a few pieces of the N/A puzzle. Thanks for the header Garm. Great deal!!!

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/6348/dcheader.jpg

[cali yaris]

yeah, shake it in the ayah, baby!! LOL

[Herbicidal]

Finally got off my butt and placed my order with Garm for the DC. Looking forward to getting it. :headbang: Happy birthday to me! Happy birthday to me! :biggrin:
Galavoxx - please post up how the install went and any tips/tricks. I would appreciate it! :thumbsup: By the way, that header looks sharp!

[Galavoxx]

I'm grippin' it too. Look at that white knuckle! LOL

I'll definitely let you guys know how it goes. I'm sure it'll be a piece of cake. I have all the tools needed, even a decent jack.

[DerFlosser]

Ha....dood be all kindsa "white-knuckled." It does look good...I am curious to hear your impression. :thumbsup:

[Gideon]

I installed mine a few days ago, and IMO it was a pain in the ass. :laugh:

For some reason I had an absolute struggle to remove the second to right manifold bolt, the rest were easy enough though.

Feels a lot smoother to redline and my exhaust is now a bit throatier. (Custom 2 1/4" cat back to a Magnaflow Performance Muffler) Is nice. :biggrin:

[Herbicidal]

I installed mine a few days ago, and IMO it was a pain in the ass. :laugh:

For some reason I had an absolute struggle to remove the second to right manifold bolt, the rest were easy enough though.

Feels a lot smoother to redline and my exhaust is now a bit throatier. (Custom 2 1/4" cat back to a Magnaflow Performance Muffler) Is nice. :biggrin:

Well look at that! You're right here in my town! I wonder if I've seen your car before.... :iono:

[Gideon]

Well look at that! You're right here in my town! I wonder if I've seen your car before.... :iono:

Oh snap, so I am!

I'm over behind the Galleria off of Gibson.

I DID see a Yaris sedan of similar color and badassery making a right turn on Woodcreek Oaks Blvd. from Blue Oaks Blvd. once, maybe that was you? :laugh:

[Kioshi]

you should come to the meet w/ Gideon, Herbicidal! ;) LOL

man...more and more people are getting this header! damn....

Garm's new HIDs < Garm's DC header.... =_=

[Herbicidal]

Oh snap, so I am!

I'm over behind the Galleria off of Gibson.

I DID see a Yaris sedan of similar color and badassery making a right turn on Woodcreek Oaks Blvd. from Blue Oaks Blvd. once, maybe that was you? :laugh:

Sorry folks for going OT on this thread, but Gideon you're right! That is my neighborhood! Too funny! We can exchange PM's if you like instead of here.

Kioshi - what meet? I guess I missed it. A PM with the info would be good. Thanks!

Back on topic, can't wait to get my header!

[Galavoxx]

So I installed my DC Header on Saturday. It took me about an hour. I just jacked up the front of the car and placed it on jack stands and then went to work. I'm not going to go over how to install as others have already done this. Some things I thought about or should have though about during install (at length):

First of all, this header does not come with a doughnut (or a coffee) or a manifold gasket. I know, that sucks. However, I have 35k miles on my car and both the doughnut and the manifold gasket looked good. More on this later.

Remove your spark plug/plastic engine cover before trying to weasel the old header out. The plastic cover scratches super easy and I'm sort of a neat freak so I'm sort of pissed that I scratched mine, big scratch. The removal of the stock header was easy enough. Breaking the nuts and bolts loose was a little bit of an ass pain but they all came off a little effort. I would recommend you wear leather gloves for the task. Anyone whose ever had a wrench or a socket slip off and had a knuckle buster or has cut the Sh** out of themselves knows how valuable these gloves can be.

Not being able to see behind the motor while standing in front of the car was not a huge problem but it does require you use your "feelers" a lot more than your eyeballs. For me, most of the bolts were best broken loose standing in front of the car while they were best installed from underneath the car. This may not be true for you. The hardest bolt to remove and install was definitely the far left if you are sitting in the car facing forward. You really have to be a contortionist to get in there. That one probably took me ten minutes to remove, maybe more. You really need to be careful your socket or wrench has a good grip on the nut or bolt head. Stripping any one of these would absolutely suck.

Not to sound like a mom but another thing that sucks, getting rust in your eyes. Don't put your face under rusted bolts when removing them. Happened in the past, won't happen again. :biggrin:

Installation of the new header was easy enough. I saved my doughnut, it was not crushed, deformed, or flaking. It looked good. Only issue is that it was stuck on the old header. I took a small flat head screwdriver and worked around the base of the doughnut, separating it little by little from the old header and working to a larger screwdriver, taking care not to damage the thing. Once loose enough I was able remove by twisting the doughnut back and forth. Try twisting before screwdrivers as yours might just come off. If you don't know what it's supposed to look like just buy a new one at your local muffler shop, should be under $10.

The manifold gasket was easier. After the old header is off it will fall behind the engine or you can reach back and take it off it's from where it's perched on the head.

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The only issue I found with the install apart from the font left bolt being a pain was that my torque wrench was too big to fit into the tight space of the engine bay. I torqued the two collector bolts with the springs to the proper 32 ft lbs but two manifold bolts and three nuts to 20lbs, those had to be done with faith. Maybe someone else can comment on what torque wrench they used, if any. I'm assuming the factory torquing is done while the motor is out of the car so they give you these numbers assuming you can reach the damn things. Or maybe there is a baby torque wrench that I need to add to my tool collection.

After install I noticed that the A/F sensor plug wire was a little tighter than I might like. Nothing to be done. This is probably due to the bung being located lower on the header than the stock bung location.

I tried to drive the car as much as possible this weekend but was pretty busy. Based on about an hour of driving, maybe a little more, I have to agree with others that I have definitely lost some low end torque. The car does not want to climb hills below 3000 rpms in second gear, which I used to be able to do. I'm in San Francisco so this matters. There are many hills.

The car feels smoother to redline but I really can't tell if it's gained any peak horsepower, maybe a few, maaaybe, but it's really really hard to tell without a dyno. Also pure speculation without a dyno: I think what has happened is a few more hp have become available in the mid range and connected that area of the power band to the upper end of the power band. Horsepower feels like it comes in earlier around 3800 rpms and then continues to rev and grow very smoothly up to peak hp at close to redline. What I used to think was the VVTi kicking in (and maybe it was), a surge of power between like 4700 and 6500 rpms, that is gone. Now the motor just revs straight through to redline with no surging. This is especially noticeable getting on the highway.

In the end I don't know if this is a worthwhile upgrade until Garm's intake manifold comes out (assuming it happens and assuming the intake makes power). The fit and finish of the DC header is great but even with larger exhaust piping from the cat back to a Nitto Muffler, a WeaponR short ram, and the light crank pulley, the header doesn't give a huge amount of bang for your buck. I think the intake side is choking it. If you simply must have a header I would hit up one of the cheaper options. I'm glad I bought this header because I wanted a header and like a quality product and this is definitely both. I wasn't expecting huge gains so I'm not disappointed. I think I will miss that little bit of low end torque though.

So far no exhaust leaks.

I do have one question as I'm not very savvy on the ECU side. Will the ECU make any adjustments for the addition of more flow on the backside? It seems like the car got more power the more I drove it. That could have also been differences in intake temperatures or something though.

[Herbicidal]

Galavoxx - GREAT write up! And thanks too for the tips and tricks. I'm a little bummed to hear that you lost some low end torque. I was hoping to gain some in that area. I too am curious about resetting the ECU and whether it should be done or not for a header?

[lilredrocket]

I may be thinking wrong but any time you perform a mod that is supposed to increase power you are supposed to disconnect the battery to reset the ECU? Like I said I'm not 100% sure about that

[NonStopTuning]

Very nice review Galavoxx!

Shameless plug coming next...
perhaps you should try an Underdrive Crank Pulley to help you regain some of that low end torque. Should be very helpful for hill climbing!

Good luck and have fun with all your projects!

[cali yaris]

^ Shameless! -- good suggestion too! :laugh:

[Galavoxx]

Very nice review Galavoxx!

Shameless plug coming next...
perhaps you should try an Underdrive Crank Pulley to help you regain some of that low end torque. Should be very helpful for hill climbing!

Good luck and have fun with all your projects!

LOL. Is the underdrive really going to help that much? I already have your lightened crank pulley. Plus, I'm saving for a rainy custom intake day.

[Galavoxx]

Anyone have any comments on the ECU question?

[cali yaris]

Well, you have changed the amount of air (and fuel) passing through the motor. So your ECU will definitely "notice" that and be making some adjustments (= "relearn"). I'm not sure you have to reset it for it to do that, but it's not a bad idea.

[eii]

I may be thinking wrong but any time you perform a mod that is supposed to increase power you are supposed to disconnect the battery to reset the ECU? Like I said I'm not 100% sure about that

You should. When I installed the headers for the first time I didnt d/c the battery and I got CEL after a few minutes driving. Reset the battery and you shouldn't get a CEL ever assuming installation was done correctly. Running some crap ebay headers with no problems for a month now. :)

[Galavoxx]

I didn't throw a CEL but I'll disconnect overnight and see how it feels afterward.

[lilredrocket]

You may want to rev it up acouple time after you start it back up to help the ECU out a little.

[DerFlosser]

Fantastic write-up! I will definitely hold off on this mod. Thanks again for the great post.

[Galavoxx]

Hmmm... I read about that trick. I'm a little skeptical but I'll definitely go on a drive afterward, give it some juice.

[fmicle]

Can someone please explain the physics of why would you lose some low-end torque with a less restrictive header? It's not quite intuitive to me, as to why that would happen, but I admit I'm not a mechanic :iono:

It's too late for me anyway, as I ordered mine last week :smile: but I'd still like to understand what happens there.

[Galavoxx]

I don't know the physics behind it but I'm assuming it has to do the scavenging properties of the new header. The header doesn't take the exhaust gasses away fast enough at low RPMS due to an increased volume in tubing. The pressure in the manifold is probably too low. Once the engine begins to rev higher and the exhaust pressure begins to rise, that additional volume gets put to use and allows for the exhaust gasses to be expelled more quickly and freely than that stock header that was on there. I could be completely wrong but that's my experience with two-stroke motorcycle stuff talking. I imagine the principles are the same.

[DerFlosser]

slimmer tube....faster flow and the interior geometry and surface finish also matters. A fatter tube with such a weak motor and you will feel the loss in torque due to less velocity. Don't forget, the car was designed/engineered as a whole unit which means that the overall efficiency is probably maximized with the stock exhaust header. Add some other modifications and well....that story might not hold truth any longer.

[Herbicidal]

...I tried to drive the car as much as possible this weekend but was pretty busy. Based on about an hour of driving, maybe a little more, I have to agree with others that I have definitely lost some low end torque. The car does not want to climb hills below 3000 rpms in second gear, which I used to be able to do. I'm in San Francisco so this matters. There are many hills...

...If you simply must have a header I would hit up one of the cheaper options. I'm glad I bought this header because I wanted a header and like a quality product and this is definitely both. I wasn't expecting huge gains so I'm not disappointed. I think I will miss that little bit of low end torque though...
Galavoxx - Based upon your write up, particulary regarding your comments above, I changed my order with Garm from the DC to the Megan. The Megan header arrived yesterday and looks good to me (thanks Garm!). We'll see if I made the right decision. I did save some coin by switching and perhaps I'll use the difference to buy a higher flowing air filter. I hope to find an hour or two this weekend to do the install. I think I will pick up some of that Permatex Ultra Copper first.
:burnrubber:

[Galavoxx]

I disconnected the battery for a couple of hours today and went for a heavy footed drive up and down highway 280 and then up and down some hills.

At first it seemed like nothing was different. This is probably because I was skeptical the ECU would change anything given I had already driven the car for 100 miles or so.

Well, I was totally wrong. The low end torque feels like it's back! I did some "tests" up some of the steeper hills in my neighborhood and I can definitely feel more power down low. I don't know the exact extent of the change when compared to the stock header but the throttle response really is better and the engine just feels like it has better pull than before the ECU reset. I can say that disconnecting the ECU definitely helped things and anyone adding a header should probably perform the reset. I'm going to go on an early drive up highway 1 to Tamales Bay tomorrow morning, grab some breakfast and see if it gets even better!! Thank you all for the suggestion.

[Galavoxx]

Galavoxx - Based upon your write up, particulary regarding your comments above, I changed my order with Garm from the DC to the Megan. The Megan header arrived yesterday and looks good to me (thanks Garm!). We'll see if I made the right decision. I did save some coin by switching and perhaps I'll use the difference to buy a higher flowing air filter. I hope to find an hour or two this weekend to do the install. I think I will pick up some of that Permatex Ultra Copper first.
:burnrubber:

Hey Herb (haha)... I'm curious to know if your low end suffers at all. After the ECU reset mine feels like is probably back to where it was at stock. Let us know what you think after you've installed.

[Herbicidal]

Hey Herb (haha)... I'm curious to know if your low end suffers at all. After the ECU reset mine feels like is probably back to where it was at stock. Let us know what you think after you've installed.Will do! Enjoy your drive up hwy 1! :thumbsup:

[lilredrocket]

Glad to hear that helped

[rac23]

Galavoxx
Great to hear. I hope it gets even better for you tomorrow.

[fmicle]

...
Well, I was totally wrong. The low end torque feels like it's back!
...


:headbang: whew, good, 'cause I've already ordered mine :thumbup:

[Herbicidal]

Galavoxx -how was your drive up hwy 1?

I having removal issues with my air/fuel sensor (on the stock manifold), so my car is still up on jack stands while my Toyota mechanic buddy tries to get it un-stuck. He has the old manifold at his house. I think I'll need to post up my experience with the Megan install. It was going fine until the stuck sensor. Oh well, there is always something! Oh yeah, air tools are your friend! :thumbsup:

[Galavoxx]

I hate it when the little things hold up a project, very frustrating. Hopefully you get it out of there. Mine came right out.

As for my drive, it went well. It was foggy as hell but the car ran pretty strong. I like the header. It's not a huge improvement over my old setup but it is noticeable.

[kngrsll]

does anyone know if this is CARB legal? i may be moving to cali next year. i did a search and found that supposedly all DC headers are CARB exempt, but i cant find a specific # for this one.

[fmicle]

does anyone know if this is CARB legal? i may be moving to cali next year. i did a search and found that supposedly all DC headers are CARB exempt, but i cant find a specific # for this one.

Well, from my [little] research on the subject, I believe the CARB law says no modifications to intake and exhaust are allowed. Manufacturers can apply for exemptions. When these exemptions are granted, the part receives an EO (Executive Order) number, which makes it legal.

Since the header is a modification to the exhaust, it is thereby illegal. As far as I know there are no exempt aftermarket parts for the Yaris. That is anything that has to do with intake and exhaust.

I have the AEM air intake and asked them if the exemption application is pending or if they plan to do it and they replied: no, there is no exemption, there is no plan to apply and your intake is for off-road use only. :rolleyes:

I know the DMV fined some dealers in the greater LA area a few years back because they were selling sport vehicles with mods that were not CARB approved.

If you asked me, I'd say there is no way a mod that improves my gas mileage is bad for anyone (including the environment), but these are the rules... I don't understand why I can't install an aftermarket CAI on my 2007 engine, but one of the guys at work can still drive a 1982 Honda Civic with carburetor and choke and such. Even if I toss the catalytic converter, he still beats me by a wide mile in terms of emissions :rolleyes:

Like I said, these are the rules. I guess the Yaris is not a popular enough vehicle to make it worthwhile for manufacturers to go through the exemption process. Just my guess...

[fmicle]

does anyone know if this is CARB legal? i may be moving to cali next year. i did a search and found that supposedly all DC headers are CARB exempt, but i cant find a specific # for this one.

Oh, and don't worry, CA is not that bad a place to live, after all :wink:

[Herbicidal]

does anyone know if this is CARB legal? i may be moving to cali next year. i did a search and found that supposedly all DC headers are CARB exempt, but i cant find a specific # for this one.

I was wondering the same thing... I have JBA headers on my 01' Tundra and they do have a CARB #. It will be interesting to see if the technician at my first smog test for the Yaris will even notice it has a header back there. :iono:

On another note, my Toyota buddy was able to finally remove the air/fuel sensor from the stock manifold, but the threads were wasted. Fortunately he had a used spare that he gave to me. It's almost all back together, maybe tomorrow I'll be able to finish it up. The battery is currently disconnected. Once I'm all done, I think I will start a new thread on my Megan header install experience as this thread really isn't the place.

[Herbicidal]

No love for me with my air/fuel sensor. :cry: Tried a couple of used ones that had matching part numbers but came from different model Toyota's. All threw a CEL. Gave up and asked my buddy to pick up a new one and call it done. I should have the new sensor installed this evening.

This became a rather expensive mod. :rolleyes:

[Galavoxx]

That sucks. Hopefully you like the header.

[Herbicidal]

That sucks. Hopefully you like the header.Thanks. Question for you - were you able to reuse the Toyota bolts to connect the DC header to the mid-pipe? These have the big spring around the bolt. How about the bolt to reconnect the support bracket from behind the block to the header?

[hatchbackkid82]

Just ordered mine from wesellcarparts, woohoo!!!!!:burnrubber:

[Galavoxx]

Thanks. Question for you - were you able to reuse the Toyota bolts to connect the DC header to the mid-pipe? These have the big spring around the bolt. How about the bolt to reconnect the support bracket from behind the block to the header?

Sorry for the delay. Yes, I re-used all bolts including the spring loaded collector bolt. They were all in excellent condition, even after $35K miles.

One thing I didn't mention in my original post, I don't know if this is just my car but there is a threaded tab on the side of the header (new and old) that wasn't connected to anything and doesn't appear that it could be. Is this supposed to connect to the "support bracket" you are talking about? If so, my car didn't come with a support bracket.

[Herbicidal]

Sorry for the delay. Yes, I re-used all bolts including the spring loaded collector bolt. They were all in excellent condition, even after $35K miles.

One thing I didn't mention in my original post, I don't know if this is just my car but there is a threaded tab on the side of the header (new and old) that wasn't connected to anything and doesn't appear that it could be. Is this supposed to connect to the "support bracket" you are talking about? If so, my car didn't come with a support bracket.
As I think mentioned before I'm a little disappointed that I could not reuse the spring loaded bolts as the thread pitch is wrong. I'm glad to hear the DC's were a match. I also bought longer bolts for the header that hold it to the engine block, I just didn't like how little thread there was left due to the thicker flange and thicker gasket.

Yeah, the support bracket is basically in the shape of a triangle, two bolts to the engine block and one to the threaded tab. I wonder why yours didn't have one? Sedan vs hatchback? :iono:

Oh, I now have a new air/fuel sensor, just haven't installed it yet. Probably tomorrow, then I can start driving my Yaris back to work and get a feel for the new header.

[Klinton]

im going to pick up that header soon im pretty happy with what i have seen on it

[Yoda]

i have the dc header. had it for awhile it is wonderful. you do lose some down end tho:frown: but it will make the acceleration feel alot smother. gives a small boost in hp too. Check the sticky mines is up there along with others. install was pretty straight forward too.

[rac23]

I ordered my DC header from Garm this week. It should be in Friday. Can anyone tell me where I can get the exhaust pipe gasket for it? I don't want to buy it from Toyota. I think they want $50 for it.

[Herbicidal]

I ordered my DC header from Garm this week. It should be in Friday. Can anyone tell me where I can get the exhaust pipe gasket for it? I don't want to buy it from Toyota. I think they want $50 for it.
I'll sell you mine for $30. My Megan header came with a new gasket. My car has about 12,500 miles on it. :smile:

[kngrsll]

I ordered my DC header from Garm this week. It should be in Friday. Can anyone tell me where I can get the exhaust pipe gasket for it? I don't want to buy it from Toyota. I think they want $50 for it.

i reused my stock one and it works fine.

[rac23]

I guess I'll try to salvage mine first. I was hoping someone would make an alternative product at a more reasonable price. That gasket shouldn't cost more than $10.
If you bought a Yaris part by part from Toyota's parts department and then put it together yourself, it would probably cost you more than buying a new Porsche.

[aucorium]

well this is definitly a very informative thread ... i have been reading most of the threads of all the headers available for the yaris , from the megan headers with the install issues of not being able to use the spring bolts , to weapon R headers , and it seems as if the DC sports header is the only one without any install issues. I was thinking of saving some bucks and rather getting a cheaper header like megan , weapon R , thunder etc , but i recon i'll save a little longer and get the DC sports , no mess , no fuss , can reuse every OEM part.

thanks for the info guys :-)

PS: going to do a custom complete local exhaust and doing a de-cat , so by the time i get the header its going to make a noticable difference.

[bronzebullet232]

Do you have an aftermarket mid-pipe? I'm planning on doing DC headers for sure along with afe intake, and nst cr-lite pulley.

[hatchbackkid82]

I have the afe intake, Nst pulley kit, DC header that i installed on Monday, nitto mid pipe, thunder axle back. It's an awesome combo of parts:thumbup: The header does lose some low end but makes up for it, car has more punch in the mid and top end, ass dyno can feel the difference.

Do you have an aftermarket mid-pipe? I'm planning on doing DC headers for sure along with afe intake, and nst cr-lite pulley.

[kngrsll]

I have the afe intake, Nst pulley kit, DC header that i installed on Monday, nitto mid pipe, thunder axle back. It's an awesome combo of parts:thumbup: The header does lose some low end but makes up for it, car has more punch in the mid and top end, ass dyno can feel the difference.

did you notice a difference with the mid pipe and exhaust? i didnt do those, i think the header had the best gains, and i dont want the noise/attention of an an exhaust.

[fmicle]

After a few hours in the trenches, I finally finished installing my DC header. I had some issue loosening the O2 sensor, but I got it off eventually, with a 4 ft pipe as a wrench extension... The thread was ruined about 60-70%, but I managed to mount it on the new header just fine, so I'm not going to get a new one for now.

Unfortunately, I couldn't fit the header onto the engine bracket with the stock bolt (as it's supposed to be) no matter what I tried - like loosening all bolts and trying the header tab bolt 1st.

I eventually improvised a thinner bolt and nut to fasten them together. I hope it holds. No problems with the donut (it came of easily) and the spring bolts worked fine as well.

I was also not able to get my torque wrench in there for the world... so I hand tightened all the bolts... Any thoughts/concerns on that?

Did anyone else experience similar fitment problems?

[cali yaris]

What is the recommended torque? You can hand tighten if you know the feel of a torque range.

[fmicle]

What is the recommended torque? You can hand tighten if you know the feel of a torque range.

It's 25 lb-ft. I don't know the feel of a torque range, I only know how it felt to loosen it, even though I don't think that means much. I have a very short ratchet (a bit longer than my fist) that I used for 4 out of the 5 bolts, so I can't apply much torque, therefore I pretty much tightened them as much as I could, given the short handle.

One of the bolts is right under one of the tubes, so I couldn't get the ratchet under there and used a regular 12 pt wrench. Quite amateurish :wink:

[cali yaris]

Headers are difficult to get at back there, that is for sure. did you access the project from the top or from the bottom? just curious.

25 is pretty light.

[fmicle]

Headers are difficult to get at back there, that is for sure. did you access the project from the top or from the bottom? just curious.

25 is pretty light.

Well, both ways, some things I did from under the hood - such as getting the old header out and the new one in, others from under the car - such as loosening 3 of the 5 header bolts, plus the spring bolts on the exhaust.

That's what I thought as well, 25 is pretty light and the gasket is metal, not something softer that I could squeeze and rip by overtightening...

[kngrsll]

get a friend to help. i had one guy go from the top, i went from the bottom. it was MUCH easier.

[kngrsll]

that post could be taken totally out of context btw

[cali yaris]

LOL, I wasn't going to say it.

[advocate]

that post could be taken totally out of context btw

It's a good thing you covered yourself them. :laugh:

[hatchbackkid82]

With all the exhaust mods i have it's really not that loud, ,on the highway it isn't too bad if you don't step on it. Whe your outside the car though it is a lil loud, but no where near some other cars i.e. civic with test pipes. The mid pipe and exhaust will complement the header really well.

did you notice a difference with the mid pipe and exhaust? i didnt do those, i think the header had the best gains, and i dont want the noise/attention of an an exhaust.

[chongopants]

has anyone had problems re-using the stock gaskets? I am just of the old school ways where you replace them when you open it up... but I come from old V8s so should i go hunt down another gasket for my engine?

[cali yaris]

Always best to throw on a new gasket -- better than having to do the job twice because you got a leak. You can definitetly re-use the donut from header to midpipe, though.

$14.45 at www.trdsparks.com

[fmicle]

I reused the stock gasket and so far everything seems alright. How would I know if I had a leak? Is running idle enough to tell? I started it and sniffed around, listened, but it's all very quiet at idle, so I didn't hear anything...

[vvvvvvvvvvvvv]

I have the afe intake, Nst pulley kit, DC header that i installed on Monday, nitto mid pipe, thunder axle back. It's an awesome combo of parts:thumbup: The header does lose some low end but makes up for it, car has more punch in the mid and top end, ass dyno can feel the difference.

Did you have to modify the front flange of the Nitto midpipe to fit on the DC Sports header? I'd get the midpipe, but there was a notice about modifying the front flange to fit aftermarket headers....

[hatchbackkid82]

Nope, no need to modify the flange on the DC header. I think it's probably the only one that doesn't need a flange modification. Make sure to get the Anti-Fouler otherwise your going to throw a CEL.

[SeriousBlack]

The DC header was simple enough that my Toyota tech was able to do it in around .5 hrs during an oil change.

It was nice to have him see what a P.O.S. the OEM one is in comparison :biggrin:

[cali yaris]

^ those little stock collector tubes are so tiny!

[rene0023]

I have mine today and I installed it too. Thanks Garm. The DC was a great deal.

[yariseggvvti]

what was the damage? I'm interesting putin header on 2. Thx!

[DJYojimbo]

Has anyone put a DC header in a 2012 Yaris yet?

[Jason@SportsCar]

Has anyone put a DC header in a 2012 Yaris yet?

Yes: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=621525&postcount=22

[DJYojimbo]

awesome thinking of getting a DC header and afe intake but might just stick to afe intake i really don't want to put an exhaust system or pulleys either. Thanks Jason!

[Jason@SportsCar]

awesome thinking of getting a DC header and afe intake but might just stick to afe intake i really don't want to put an exhaust system or pulleys either. Thanks Jason!

The header is an easy mod, and worth it.

[1.5]

awesome thinking of getting a DC header and afe intake but might just stick to afe intake i really don't want to put an exhaust system or pulleys either. Thanks Jason!

DC isnt going to really change your exhaust sound the intake and header is recommended. I have this exact set up. :thumbup:

[DJYojimbo]

Yeah i just want a little more low end torque but i've heard i actually lose low end torque. 1.5 u said u just have an intake and dc headers no exhaust? I'm gonna go with that then :). Long live the yaris!

[1.5]

Yup that is my set up and it sounds pretty normal under easy driving. Once you climb up the powerband you can really see the mid-top range power coming and the sound is awesome! It makes a nice difference. Also everyone says to throw an anti fouler on but I am not using one for ~2k miles and no CEL.

[DJYojimbo]

Awesome thanks 1.5 and Jason! Gotta save my money for Garm hehe!

[tiziano]

Hallo
Wo hast du dann genau den DC-Header bestellt?
Hast du auch den Yaris 1,8l oder? Gab es bei dir Probleme bei der intallation der O2 Sonde?

Danke

Grüss Tiziano

[tiziano]

Hello
Where exactly did you then ordered the DC header?
Do you have the Yaris 1.8-liter is not it? Have there been problems with the intallation of O2 sensor?

Thank you

greet Tiziano

[1.5]

I got mine used off someone but microimageonline.com sells them and he does ship international. It is for the 1.5 idk if there is one for the 1.8

[chewychewbacca]

DC Header is worth upgrading to. Car feels a lot more responsive throughout.

[TOLMACH]

Awesome thread..

Ordered my DC header today, hoping to receive it next week. Will share my experience when installed.

[TrYaris]

Hey guys, What is the difference between 4-2-1 and 4-1, in performance I mean

[xnamerxx]

Depends on how they are designed, but if both are designed correctly there should be almost no difference.

[tooter]

Depends on how they are designed, but if both are designed correctly there should be almost no difference.

The 1NZ FE engine's firing order is 1-3-4-2.

A 4-2-1 tri Y header pairs up sequentially firing cylinders 2-1 and 3-4 so that the exhaust pulse from one helps to draw exhaust from the other.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/car/IMG_5893.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/car/IMG_5896.jpg

Then the combined 2-1 and 3-4 pairs join to help scavange each other...

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/car/IMG_5899.jpg

Practically speaking, the headers are too short to make a lot of difference.

But that's where namer comes in... :wink:

[1.5]

The 4-1 is supposed to delay the power increase until higher in the powerband. The 4-2-1 is supposed to give a midrange bump. On our tiny cars you probably would never notice a difference. I love my DC header. Anytime I'm above 4k I'm just roaring and pulling hard for a yaris lol.

[tooter]

I actually did notice a difference...
...as I climb a steep 1/4 mile hill in 2nd gear to get to my house. It's always the same hill, so that's constant. And driving up it everyday I have a good feeling for the resistance. The header definitely helped the engine make it up the hill easier. If you start climbing under 2,000 rpm, the engine labors sluggishly. But anything over 2,000 and it gains rpms much easier and climbs more easily than the stock header which feels like it's holding back at the same rpms.

[cali yaris]

^ An aftermarket header will certainly make a difference over stock, but I doubt you can feel any difference BETWEEN aftermarket headers. You just can't feel 1-2 horsepower, in my opinion.

[cali yaris]

TRYaris is that your car in your avatar?

[xnamerxx]

Basically what Cali said.

There is a maximum of about 12" to work with and an ideal length of about 35" so most of the ots headers compensate by increasing the volume of tube which in essence give some of the same effect as increasing length but reduces scavenging at lower rpms. Now this motor is relatively small displacement with a good torque management system going to a larger diameter tube won't hurt you as bad as it would on a larger engine.

So not wanting to give up anywhere in the powerband while still gaining some up top is the reason I decided to design and build my own header.

As far as header type is concerned both a 4-2-1 and a 4-1 will accomplish the same goal but each design has its own advantages but both of them can produce near the same power and torque so there isn't a real advantage to choosing either one aside from packaging constraints, and a 4-1 is simply easier to package with the effecting lengths required.

[TrYaris]

TRYaris is that your car in your avatar?

No it's not :P would be nice but I don't have that much money !:biggrin:

[1.5]

^ An aftermarket header will certainly make a difference over stock, but I doubt you can feel any difference BETWEEN aftermarket headers. You just can't feel 1-2 horsepower, in my opinion.

This

Tr that pic I think is sporting a MI Hood visor.

[TOLMACH]

This is what I received yesterday
http://photo.qip.ru/users/tolmach/96608749/129617602/



Same part number but Dc logo seems to be on the fourth tube as compared to this one (stole this pic from someone here) - here logo is on the third tube

http://photo.qip.ru/users/tolmach/96608749/129617601/

have not tried installing it yet, but there seems to be enough space between the hole for the O2 sensor and top bracket

Overall build quality of mine is not very impressive (kinda very average) as compared to the WR one

[tooter]

That's one thing I really like about the Weapon R. It's precise. You could cut your finger on that sharp knife edge where the two main tubes are joined...

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/car/IMG_5899.jpg

But as far as performance, it doesn't matter. :wink:

[xnamerxx]

That's not a good thing, air doesn't like sharp edges.

[tk-421]

I don't think it would make that much of a difference in our case either way. :iono:
Any aftermarket header should prove to be at least slightly better than stock, right?

[xnamerxx]

the slight knock it causes in flow won't make much of a difference.

[tooter]

the slight knock it causes in flow won't make much of a difference.... especially when its just a trailing edge with alternating pulses coming through each runner.

[TOLMACH]

That's one thing I really like about the Weapon R. It's precise. You could cut your finger on that sharp knife edge where the two main tubes are joined...

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/car/IMG_5899.jpg

But as far as performance, it doesn't matter. :wink:


Mine looks nothing like this inside (build quality wise) ((

Hopefully, will still do its job

[xnamerxx]

I wouldn't worry, all of the aftermarket headers lack a ventur,i so the collector looking bad wol make almost no difference.

[tooter]

Mine looks nothing like this inside (build quality wise) ((

Hopefully, will still do its job

It will work just fine. :thumbsup:
The DC is a time tested design. And in my opinion, trailing edges don't matter. Those are the edges that point in the direction of the exhaust flow.

[1.5]

Tolmach yours also does not have the ceramic coating. I thought all DC headers for the yaris came coated.

Is it a replica? Poor build quality, alteration of branding, and lack of ceramic coating... sounds like a Rep.

[TOLMACH]

Tolmach yours also does not have the ceramic coating. I thought all DC headers for the yaris came coated.

Is it a replica? Poor build quality, alteration of branding, and lack of ceramic coating... sounds like a Rep.

Mine looks pretty much the same in terms of build quality and finishing as other dc headers that I see here.

I bought mine from the vendor that is listed as official dealer at DC sports web-site (LSD motorsports) - do not have reasons not to trust these guys.

Alteration of branding - kinda suspect producers of replica would do a proper replication ))

[Golddeenoh]

Tolmach, your pipes look kind of small as well but then again my Megan Racing header is 3mm larger diameter but i wouldn't think that i could tell the size difference in a picture with out side by side comparison.

[NJ Drive]

Can someone measure the I.D. on one of the primaries on this header? It looks similar to the OEM and somewhat smaller than the Weapon R header.

[TOLMACH]

^ Mine measure 31 mm = 1.22 inches

[TOLMACH]

It will work just fine. :thumbsup:
The DC is a time tested design. And in my opinion, trailing edges don't matter. Those are the edges that point in the direction of the exhaust flow.

Thanks.. will try to install it Tue morning.. will share my experience

[tooter]

The inside diameter of stock 2012 header runners is 28mm and the Weapon R's are 36mm...

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/compost_bin/car/IMG_5901.jpg

[NJ Drive]

So perhaps the Weapon R is the closest port-matched of the two considering the amount of soot on the OEM. Anyone have an I.D. of an exhaust port?

[xnamerxx]

I measured 35mm for the port and 40mm for the gasket.

[NJ Drive]

I measured 35mm for the port and 40mm for the gasket.

Thanks. I have to be honest- the more I gather reading about 'bolt-on' solutions, I'd rather buy one of yours, assuming you find appreciable gains. I don't doubt that you will.

I intend to run a single hi-flow with a Burns muffler anyway, so might as well do it right.

[xnamerxx]

I was once told by a GM engineer that the absolute best solution and absolute worse solution for exhaust is generally only a few % different. I've taken this advice to heart knowing the expected gains and losses can only be so much.

I do expect gains but the dyno and racing will be the true test if it actually works, I have simulation numbers, but those aren't always accurate to the real world.

If you want an easy/cheap solution ots parts work, but have the same design constraints production parts have, so you won't get the "best" solution. I can tell you this I noticed a significant loss of low-mid-range torque with the DC header while getting a size-able gain in topend torque. If you look at my dynosheet you can see that the DC produces a sizeable dip between 2700-3800 rpm, it feels really gutless out of slower corners but nice up top.

[4/20 NEVER FORGET]

I have to defend the DC header, as I think it's been the single best bolt-on since I started messing with this car.

First mod was a K&N typhoon intake, other than more engine noise, I didn't feel much change.

Second mod was the DC header. I noticed no mid-range torque loss and a noticeable change to the way the top end acted. The engine breathed better in the top end, instead of running out of steam before redline like before. The power across the board seems more linear. Despite the cost I would recommend the header.

Last engine mod I've done is a resonator-back obx exhaust. I didn't really notice any seat of the pants change from this.

Now with these mods the car is easier to drive. It's surprising torquey in 5th gear, I don't have to downshift to 4th gear any more when going up hills on the highway, even with passengers. It still doesn't have the top end that my Honda cars had, which it probably never will. It pulls really well in the 3000-5500 range though for a 1.5L. Overall I'm happy with the mods, I/H/E are worth it in my opinion.

[TOLMACH]

Gone trying to install my header.. wish me luck ))

(First day of annual vacation.. sooo nice)

[cali yaris]

^ Good luck, and congrats on vacation time!

[tooter]

Do show us pics of your project, and jack up the front of the car. It makes getting to the headpipe bolts sooo much easier from the bottom. :thumbsup:

[TOLMACH]

Do show us pics of your project, and jack up the front of the car. It makes getting to the headpipe bolts sooo much easier from the bottom. :thumbsup:


^ Thanks guys.. just finished.. took me circa 3 hours (I am kinda slow).

^Tooter: I am pretty sure you can do the whole thing without jacking a car - you just need to be a giant octopus

Will post pics and quick impressions later today.

[Golddeenoh]

^Tooter: I am pretty sure you can do the whole thing without jacking a car - you just need to be a giant octopus


^best answer ever.

[tooter]

^Tooter: I am pretty sure you can do the whole thing without jacking a car - you just need to be a giant octopus

I already did. Having the front of the car up helped make it easier... and I need all the help I can get.:wink:

[TOLMACH]

Installation was pretty straightforward. My advice would be to start with spring bolts (two bolts that connect hader to the midpipe) - I unbolted the header first thus had a little problem with spring bolts later. Bolts other than spring bolts were easy to remove. No issues whatsover with removing the o2 sensor as well.

Fitment: the header fits perfectly (had minor issue with big bolt that fastens the lower part of the beader to the engine - kinda support the header/midpipe coupling).

Driving impressions: no torque loss in the low/mid range.. feels like some gain overall. The car easily hits 100kmh in the second gear (6700 rpm)- not sure it was feasible before.

Could not be happier.

Some pics will follow.

[TOLMACH]

some pics

all top crap removed to access the header
http://photo.qip.ru/users/tolmach/96608749/129640535/

all crap moved to the trunk while working on the header
http://photo.qip.ru/users/tolmach/96608749/129640844/

stock header, heat shiled removed
http://photo.qip.ru/users/tolmach/96608749/129640829/

stock header removed, gasket (to be reused)
http://photo.qip.ru/users/tolmach/96608749/129640832/

traditional pic
http://photo.qip.ru/users/tolmach/96608749/129640833/
http://photo.qip.ru/users/tolmach/96608749/129640834/

inside pic
http://photo.qip.ru/users/tolmach/96608749/129640837/

new header in place
http://photo.qip.ru/users/tolmach/96608749/129640843/

[JustDidIt]

some pics
all crap moved to the trunk while working on the header
http://tolmach.users.photofile.ru/photo/tolmach/96608749/xlarge/129640844.jpg


Off Topic, But liked your JL sub setup. Pretty cool. Can you PM me a link or do you have more pictures of your install?

[TOLMACH]

^ Thanks.. Sure I can (PM-ed)

[DJYojimbo]

I know this header is ceramic so there's no need to wrap it right?

[xnamerxx]

DO NOT WRAP A HEADER!!! wrap is bad avoid it, it holds moisture and increases corrosion. Its coated leave it as is.

[DJYojimbo]

Thank You for the advice

[TOLMACH]

Thank You for the advice

The producer explicitly says that warranty is voided if wrapped.. wanted to wrap mine

[blkfwlr]

Hey, question about installation. It is possible without jacking up the car? People say they think you can, but can I? Want to install it today, but have no jack stands, unfortunately.

Blake

[tk-421]

Possible? Sure.
PITA? Definitely.

[blkfwlr]

Hm, I guess i'll just go for it. I'll have a person to help me, hopefully works out.

[WeeYari]

The flange bolts from header to downpipe are only accessible from below. I don't know about you, but personally I cannot fit under the car if not raised.

[blkfwlr]

I'm thinking to drive the front of the car on a curb just enough, so it would be sitting over the concrete, on the grass. Then I can slide underneath and hopefully reach the bolts still. Or is there a reason why this is flawed ?
Won't be on grass, just concrete. Going to do tomorrow morning.

[tooter]

I'm thinking to drive the front of the car on a curb just enough, so it would be sitting over the concrete, on the grass. Then I can slide underneath and hopefully reach the bolts still. Or is there a reason why this is flawed ?
Won't be on grass, just concrete. Going to do tomorrow morning.

That's a very clever idea! :thumbsup:
If you can, post some pics of your installation.

Greg

[Neurotic Hapi Snak]

Is there a reason you don't put the heat shield back on? You'd think you'd want to, to keep your engine bay cool and exhaust header hot.

[catliektheif]

I just installed mine yesterday and i LOVE it. it was a PITA to take out the stock header without a 12mm deep socket.. so if you are thinking of getting the dc header make sure to get one! I ended up going to the store to pick one up when i got to the last bolt.. lol. No CELs and no leaks! Definitely recommend it.

I have an afe short ram, trd axleback, MI pulley and I'm an AT. I definitely feel a difference and getting to 60-70mph is like butter.

[kappa_md]

TRD made a 4-1 header (exhaust manifold) for the Vitz 1NZ-FE.

[JustDidIt]

TRD made a 4-1 header (exhaust manifold) for the Vitz 1NZ-FE.



Yup they did. Welcome to a 3 yr old thread. [emoji23]

[SirDigby]

yeah. it's not even useful information...

[tarkus]

OK, I would love to know if there are any other good headers out there which give similar low Rev improvements.

Sent from my phone with Tapatalk. Please excuse any typpos.

[SirDigby]

Weapon R is for low RPM gains
DC is for high RPM gains
Megan is....idk cheap?

[enviri]

Weapon R is for low RPM gains
DC is for high RPM gains
Megan is....idk cheap?

you forgot OBX :P

[tmontague]

Weapon R is for low RPM gains
DC is for high RPM gains
Megan is....idk cheap?

This is true based on the 4-1 vs 4-2-1 design. However, I did notice the torque curve shifted left by about 500 rpm or so with the dc header. This made a difference in the low end still.

This is likely due to the fact that our headers are so short because of the rear exit design which doesn't make the headers act like tradditional long tube deigns

That said I've never used the weapon r header

[SirDigby]

oh yeah, OBX. also cheap. ha!
i think the manifold design is due to the placement of the catalyst as near to the engine as possible to aid in warm-up.
i have a weapon R.
i have never used a DC.
ha!

[enviri]

I have the TRD. My car enjoys it alot, lol.

[SirDigby]

I have the TRD. My car enjoys it alot, lol.

can you still buy them? i think i only found 1 for sale and it was like $300

[williew2]

the headers I have are a OBX or a copy or something made by GODSNOW?? fit perfect expect for the fact they are a tad (10mm) longer and are causing the cat converter to bump on the x-member, stil lto fix it properly butfor now I'm using the natural elasticity of the exhaust and hangers :) made a nice difference to note and revs also throttle off is not as drastic.

[tarkus]

This is true based on the 4-1 vs 4-2-1 design.
So which gives better low end or high end?

I also see a number of Yaris sports headers on evilBay, and I wonder if they're any good or should be avoided.

Sent from my phone with Tapatalk. Please excuse any typpos.

[tmontague]

Most of my Yaris stuff including my DC header was purchased off ebay. It's negative connotation is due to the early years of ebay, many top brands use ebay to get their parts out there, just be smart about the brands you are buying.

Typically a 4-2-1 gives more low end torque and a 4-1 gives more upper. However, we are talking about true long tube headers such as the RPM header for the Tsport or XD which tends to give all that extra power above 3k rpm as it is a 4-1 header. With the Yaris headers, they are so short due to the rear exhaust exit that it doesn't seem to make a noticeable difference in which design you go with.

I had the DC header and noticed a shift of the power band left by about 500 rpm and it seemed to perform better up top. That said, it wasn't until I got the MicroImage intake manifold that I noticed a big difference in the upper rpm's. ...still fell on its face about 5.5k rpm compared to the 2zr though...

IMO if you don't plan on doing other flow mods ie: custom exhaust, air intake, intake manifold, 1zzTB, then I'd go with a 4-2-1 design. If you plan on improving the air flow of the 1nz with other mods then go with the DC header. Either way you'll be happy

[tarkus]

So just for example, does this one look legit?

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=161698748550&category=33632&pm=1&ds=0&t=1492913724413

Or maybe this one?

http://m.ebay.ca/itm/06-09-YARIS-1-5LITER-T304-4-2-1-STAINLESS-STEEL-EXHAUST-HEADER-MANIFOLD-UNIT-KIT-/291730442407?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

Sent from my phone with Tapatalk. Please excuse any typpos.

[tmontague]

No idea about either of those brands. They are very cheap when compared to a dc header but cheap headers are also known to have cheap welds.

If you don't mind wrenching on the car a lot then you could try the cheap one, but if you want a reliable header that you install and forget then go with a known brand like dc

[enviri]

can you still buy them? i think i only found 1 for sale and it was like $300

You can still buy it, yes.
you aren't going to find one new for less than nearly 700...before shipping.
When they first came out it was 1000 bucks.

There's currently a used one up for sale in japan for ~500.

[tarkus]

No idea about either of those brands. They are very cheap when compared to a dc header but cheap headers are also known to have cheap welds.

If you don't mind wrenching on the car a lot then you could try the cheap one, but if you want a reliable header that you install and forget then go with a known brand like dc
That's a good point. I had been wondering if there wasn't a catch to some of these cheaper headers.

Sent from my phone. Please excuse any typpos.

[SirDigby]

i'd say, "you get what you pay for" in most cases. cheap manifolds usually don't line up just perfect or have the best geometry or welds. i had an obx on my civic for over 200,000 miles without any issue. ($50) but, i'm also a cheap-ass and look for a better deal, and the complete exhaust was custom, so it did not matter if it lined up when purchased. i would not pay $500-$1000 for a TRD seeing how the gain is so minimal.
i do disagree with the 4-2-1 vs 4-1 for performance stated above. 4-1 manifold gives a better top end torque because of where the collector location is in reference to pressure point of cylinder pressure drop during high rpm. (high rpm=high pressure scavenging further in the tube) 4-2-1 allows high pressure scavenging to occur at lower rpm, between sister cylinders; wile high rpm scavenging still occurs, but at lower pressure, so it has a less dramatic effect on high end performance. since i do a lot of city driving, the most noticeable gains should live in the 500-3500 range. (4-2-1)
i do not believe there is a "better" design, i think it all depends on where in the RPM range you want the gains to be most noticeable. in the civic, i was driving from denver to phoenix every weekend. (1500 miles r/t) the obx was a 4-1 because it was always on the highway running as fast as possible. it all depends on your utility.

[williew2]

So just for example, does this one look legit?

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=161698748550&category=33632&pm=1&ds=0&t=1492913724413

Or maybe this one?

http://m.ebay.ca/itm/06-09-YARIS-1-5LITER-T304-4-2-1-STAINLESS-STEEL-EXHAUST-HEADER-MANIFOLD-UNIT-KIT-/291730442407?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

Sent from my phone with Tapatalk. Please excuse any typpos.

I have the second one, fit up to the engine fine, only issue is they are a tad longer and cause the cat converter to bump on the x-member, nothing a bit of tweaking won't fix tho. They seem O.K for the $$$ and since I'm in Australia I need cheap as freight almost doubled the price.

[JimKellyfan]

I am trying to determine which header for me. I do highway, but also like my low end. I am steering to a 4-2-1, or like design, but think the tubes should be bigger/posters had some copied/pasted sizes below.

Tolmach ^ Mine measure 31 mm = 1.22 inches

Golddeenoh Tolmach, your pipes look kind of small as well but then again my Megan Racing header is 3mm larger diameter but i wouldn't think that i could tell the size difference in a picture with out side by side comparison.

Tooter The inside diameter of stock 2012 header runners is 28mm and the Weapon R's are 36mm...

Xnamerxx I measured 35mm for the port and 40mm for the gasket.

So, for the ceramic coating is nice, but T409 is not as super duty as T304, at least what someone typed online here:
http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/t304-vs-t409

I was leaning towards OBX as their claim is 1 3/4 primaries which is 44 mm.
It looks like the stock, so it won't have the lower end lacking, as not as much high end as the DC.

Looking at sellers sites, it is hard to see all the sizes, they don't have em, really. I think 1 3/4 is a big boast, hopefully Amazon is right.

For now, I will await other replies, but based on research so far, am leaning to the OBX for the steel type too, the T304 besides the bigger tubes and similar construction to a 4-2-1 set up or stock set up....

Thoughts and sizes anyone ?

:eyebulge:
:help:

[JimKellyfan]

Ordered OBX header and TC TB spacer off Amazon. Buying two items off Amazon from OBX netted me 33 bucks off and was 12% their math. Was 199.99 and 74.99 before discount.