Motor Oil and filters

[Lafiro]

I have researched this with no prevail on this site, maybe its been erased since it was hacked before??

Anyway, so I need an oil change bad... running close to 5000miles on my mobile1 5w-30. I was thinking of going with royal purple 5w-30.

Others have said 0w30? I don't eee what this will do to an engine that states 5w30. Please give me some insight before I do stay with 5w30.

If that oil is good, what filter should I use? I have heard toyota tell me that they only recommend their oil filters.

If anyone can get me a part number for the oil filter for my 2007 Yaris Sadan, I would appreciate that.

Maybe I can buy the filter and just change the oil myself at home instead of driving far and spending more on labor costs.

Thank you!

[mikenacarato]

when i asked the dealer they said 5w30 and only 5w30

[superfly78209]

even 5w30 in the winter?

[mikenacarato]

5w30 is all she wrote apparently and he also said in the yaris regular toyota 5w30 or synthetic 5w30 will perform about the same. i wanna run synthetic because i like it though

[1stToyota]

I have researched this with no prevail on this site, maybe its been erased since it was hacked before??

Anyway, so I need an oil change bad... running close to 5000miles on my mobile1 5w-30. I was thinking of going with royal purple 5w-30.

Others have said 0w30? I don't eee what this will do to an engine that states 5w30. Please give me some insight before I do stay with 5w30.

If that oil is good, what filter should I use? I have heard toyota tell me that they only recommend their oil filters.

If anyone can get me a part number for the oil filter for my 2007 Yaris Sadan, I would appreciate that.

Maybe I can buy the filter and just change the oil myself at home instead of driving far and spending more on labor costs.

Thank you!

I'd just stick with 5w-30. Being synthetic the cold flow is good enough and I doubt that fuel economy will be that much different with 0w-30

Wix (PN 51394)/Napa Gold (PN 1394) is a quality filter.
RP oil is good, but I'd have to pay about $2 per qt more than the deal I'm getting on Amsoil...In the past I've used M1, Redline, RP, etc; all pretty good oil and fairly easy to find.

...or ask someone to change it for you, with you suppling the oil and filter. You're probably looking at maybe $20.00 (labor). Around here synthetic oil changes go for $55.00 to $85.00, depending where you shop.

[Lafiro]

Cool, thank you to all for the quick response.

I have not found Amsoil anywhere just yet, but for the little difference it makes on just 4 quarts of oil the engine needs, I rather go for the best.

Other then that, what would be concidered the "best" oil filter for our car?

I just want to find it, stock up on it all, and do this myself for now on. Any website or vendor on here that sells the stuff, please recommend, if not its ebay.

[Chupacabra]

K&N would likely make the best filter but it's WAY overkill for the Yaris. The wix or OE filter is just fine, especially if you are diligent with your oil changes.

[gid]

see posts here for Used Oil Analysises for SHELL , PENNZOIL full synthetics . Good performance at a fair price . Says 5w-30 on oil cap and in owners manual . No mention of 0w-30 . Read somewhere that TOYOTA is getting tough on warranty for engine due to misuse . Better to be safe than sorry.

[1stToyota]

If you want overkill find an Amsoil dealer, here on the board or a local distributor (check the Amsoil site for answers?), and use HP5w-30 and their Ea oil filter (Ea009)

The Ea filter appears to be built by Wix, but the filter media isn't paper, looks more like a K&N air filter...some sort of media supported by mesh screen.

Amsoil XL oil is great for 5K OCIs, with the WIX filter, overkill for the HP oil and the Ea filter, but I get a good deal so I went with the overkill. :wub:

[IllusionX]

i wonder who makes the TRD filters... they go for 20-40$ a piece.. like.. omg

[Lafiro]

All these abriviations are throwing me way off. Dont understand much of them. Im not stupid, just cant read them all when half the sentence is just that!

Either way, I guess I will stick with Royal Purple this time.

Does anyone know if I deviate from bringing in my car to the dealership, if they will use that against me in the future if something goes wrong? (Assuming I just do the oil changes myself?) So far all maintenance has been done by them.

[mikenacarato]

i wonder who makes the TRD filters... they go for 20-40$ a piece.. like.. omg

K&N.. my dealer sells them for $9

[1stToyota]

Who makes K&N oil filters?

[TheSilkySmooth]

All these abriviations are throwing me way off. Dont understand much of them. Im not stupid, just cant read them all when half the sentence is just that!

Either way, I guess I will stick with Royal Purple this time.

Does anyone know if I deviate from bringing in my car to the dealership, if they will use that against me in the future if something goes wrong? (Assuming I just do the oil changes myself?) So far all maintenance has been done by them. Just keep ALL the paperwork in your owners manual in the glove box. Receipts, dates RO's. I always ask for RO printout of any work done even at dealer so thier computer database doesn't go "mysteriously" off line during a warranty issue.

AFA oil and filter - tried 'em all over the years - settling on MOTUL 8100 eco-nergy (not in stores, imported from europe, from LTB motorsports online) and Wix filter but for the 2AZFE 2.4L motor - just a bit bigger but same specs. Car runs perfect now with this stuff - it didn't before. Too bad it like 9$ a litre! I am a MOTUL convert. I had Royal Purple 5w30 street oil in there a while back but wasn't crazy about it really. It ran good up at the redline with hammer down street race driving action but weird and nervous at tooling around grandma speeds. IDK. my dos centavos

[1stToyota]

i wonder who makes the TRD filters... they go for 20-40$ a piece.. like.. omg

Didn't Denso make the real TRD filters? I don't know if they had the foam media like the OEM Japanese Toyota filters...like what was installed on the Yaris from the factory, unlike what the dealership stocks.

[TheSilkySmooth]

If your car won't start with 5w oil in there, move somewhere WARMER ;) the 5W is Winter oil. Otherwise pick a real SYN with high percentage PAO basestock for winter.
aND THAT k&N aint no thang, no big deal, WIX is all you need, works better than the toyota on my sisters machine!
- the bro

[Tamago]

i buy my OEM toyota filters from www.partznet.com

[1stToyota]

Just keep ALL the paperwork in your owners manual in the glove box. Receipts, dates RO's. I always ask for RO printout of any work done even at dealer so thier computer database doesn't go "mysteriously" off line during a warranty issue.

AFA oil and filter - tried 'em all over the years - settling on MOTUL 8100 eco-nergy (not in stores, imported from europe, from LTB motorsports online) and Wix filter but for the 2AZFE 2.4L motor - just a bit bigger but same specs. Car runs perfect now with this stuff - it didn't before.

51396 filter? If so, yeah, looks exactly the same except for being about a 1/2 inch taller. Same micron rating and flow rate. Too bad I had 3 Ea filters in stock already.

[Klink10]

Who makes K&N oil filters?

Champion, same folks who make the Supertechs from WalMart.

[jkuchta]

I myself run Motul 300V 5W-30, and the amsoil filters. The oil is expensive and tough to find, but worth it.


On a side note, I would not go with a 0W-30 oil. during normal driving, I have not seen oil temps higher than about 90 degrees C, and have only seen temps at or above 100 degrees C on the track. Note that multigrade oil dosen't get to its "hot" number until it hits 100 Degrees C, which means the 0W oil may be much thinner once the engine is warm in the yaris (due to the low operating temp.) than a 5W oil.

[Tamago]

just curious, what makes "expensive oil worth it" ?

oh and FYI, CHEVRON has the best purification capabilities of ANY oil manufacturer.

[1stToyota]

just curious, what makes "expensive oil worth it" ?

oh and FYI, CHEVRON has the best purification capabilities of ANY oil manufacturer.

The base on Amsoil is about as pure as it gets, but I'm not so worried about that. It's the additive packages that go back in that make the oil, not the base.

[gid]

to me , paying $12 > $14 a quart is overkill . Especially while under warranty and having to change oil every 5,000 miles or less until the 60,000 mile powertrain is over . Then maybe I'll consider it . PENNZOIL Platinum full synthetic has U.O.A. results that are close to those of AMSOIL at $4.00 a quart ( or less ) . Go to www.bobistheoilguy.com for comparisons under USED OIL ANALYSIS - Gas ( engines ) . Currently using SHELL full synthetic 5w-30 which is $4.50 (including tax) a quart at BJs WHOLESALE with trial MEMBERSHIP . Using it for both '08s ( sedan + L.B. ) . This has good U.O.A.s as well .

[1stToyota]

I'm doing 5K OCI, but I'm not using the regular XL Amsoil, I'm using Amsoil HP 25K oil, ACEA A5/B5 rating, $6.60 per qt (no tax) ...I've paid much more than that for inferior oils in the past.

The engine was noticably noisier when filled with Eneos 5w-30 and Nippon filter.

[gid]

must be they charge more for the AMSOIL in our region , that being the NORTHEAST .

[Tamago]

oil schmoil

keep it clean, change it often.... call it good..

[SilverGlow]

when i asked the dealer they said 5w30 and only 5w30

My dealer showed me a TSB (published by Toyota) and he told me to use 5w-20 only, regardless of what the manual says, and regardless of what is printed on my valve cover cap.

[SilverGlow]

I myself run Motul 300V 5W-30, and the amsoil filters. The oil is expensive and tough to find, but worth it.


On a side note, I would not go with a 0W-30 oil. during normal driving, I have not seen oil temps higher than about 90 degrees C, and have only seen temps at or above 100 degrees C on the track. Note that multigrade oil dosen't get to its "hot" number until it hits 100 Degrees C, which means the 0W oil may be much thinner once the engine is warm in the yaris (due to the low operating temp.) than a 5W oil.

What you wrote contradicts the data-sheets published by AMSOIL, Pennzoil, Mobil Oil, and ALL the major synthetic makers of 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, and 5w-30.

I guess you know more then their scientists, and tribologists.... :laugh:

The fact is, 0w-20 and 5w-20 show the same viscosity at operational temperatures (around 212F).

The fact is, 0w-30 and 5w-30 and 10w-30 and stright 30 weight have the same viscosity at 212F too, as their differences are too small to be significant.

For example, AMSOIL's 0w-30 protects THE SAME or better then any brand's 5w-30 or 10w-30 or straight 30 weight oil at full operational temps.

I really wish you would stop propagating outright lies and mistruths here.

[jkuchta]

I don't think you read my post Silverglow.

What I said is that I haven't seen the oil in my car get near 212 F under normal driving conditions. Because the second viscosity number is measured at 212 F in the lab, it would stand to reason that a multigrade oil's "Hot" viscocity would not be met at temps lower than 212 F. Basically, the Yaris doesn't heat its oil up to 212F until you really start beating on it (It takes like 15min. on the freeway in the morning for the oil temp to hit 80 degrees C (176F), and it dosen't really go above 86 degrees C after that...even in heavy traffic!). It would therefore stand to reason that at a given temp below 212 F, a 0W-30 oil would be thinner than a 5W-30 oil. If someone could show me a graph of each multigrade oil's viscocity vs. temp I would be very appreciative.

Tamago....

What makes the expensive Motul oil worth it to me is the fact that it's an Ester based oil. No cheap PAO's or "super-cracked" dino for my hatch!
I drive the car pretty hard, and don't mind spending a little extra for the best. Everyone is free to choose the oil they want to spend their money on, and I choose Motul.
Chevron may have the best filtering process for petrolium in the industry, but the oil I use is not petrolium based, which kind of makes that point moot.

[1stToyota]

My dealer showed me a TSB (published by Toyota) and he told me to use 5w-20 only, regardless of what the manual says, and regardless of what is printed on my valve cover cap.

And regardless of what that Toyota TSB actually says?

It clearly states that 5w-20 is fine to use now, but the note at the top of the TSB says to stick with what's listed in the service manuals, owner's manual and oil cap, which happens to be 5w-30.

Looks like the dealer drew his own conclusions about what's best, just like you did when you started using and recommending Yaris owners to use 0w-20 because of UOAs for non-Yaris motors, and because the TSB said 0w-20 was okay to use in a Corolla, Scion XD, etc...but if I can read between the lines I'm guessing that you drained out the 0w-20 and took the dealer's advice about the 5w-20.

[1stToyota]

must be they charge more for the AMSOIL in our region , that being the NORTHEAST .

It's probably expensive everywhere, I'm just getting a good deal on it because I know the guy. If I didn't have that connection I'd be using Pennzoil Platinum because of its high ratings, and because I can get it for nearly the same price that I pay for dino Valvoline.

[Chupacabra]

You would have to snot the hell out of the Yaris to get the oil remotely close to 212 degrees.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Our Camry engine is dead now from dealer using the 5W-20 ONCE on a tsb. My Spouse did not "hear" the engine disintegrating and I didin't find out until I went for a trip to her friends house. I said to her, " ... your engine has spun a rod beaing - get it to the dealer right away!", But Now she is 4000 miles OVER the warranty and we are S>O>L and money and good car.

So all you 20-weight proponents can stick it in your ear. This engine ran good on the 5W30 oil I was putting in. Dealer wrecked it. I will Trade for Nissan Rogue or sinilar, and Silver"worm"glow can buy my spouses destroyed trade-in because the oil is perfect. Moronic Nonsense!

Papa

[TheSilkySmooth]

Any Engine oil should run over 100C in warm climate on normal 10 mile commute to boil off H-O-H. The Coolant jacket cycles to 90C, under the piston dome and around valve pockets should be significantly hotter getting oil over the BP. I dont have sump guage installed either so I cabnnot confirm - I dont RACE the little yaris plus its Sis' car.

-the Bro

[nsmitchell]

Our Camry engine is dead now from dealer using the 5W-20 ONCE on a tsb. My Spouse did not "hear" the engine disintegrating and I didin't find out until I went for a trip to her friends house. I said to her, " ... your engine has spun a rod beaing - get it to the dealer right away!", But Now she is 4000 miles OVER the warranty and we are S>O>L and money and good car.

So all you 20-weight proponents can stick it in your ear. This engine ran good on the 5W30 oil I was putting in. Dealer wrecked it. I will Trade for Nissan Rogue or sinilar, and Silver"worm"glow can buy my spouses destroyed trade-in because the oil is perfect. Moronic Nonsense!

Papa

If the TSB was followed, I would contact Toyota for a new engine, covered under "Special Warranty". If you can prove the 5W-20 "caused" the damage, you will get your new engine.

[Tamago]

If the TSB was followed, I would contact Toyota for a new engine, covered under "Special Warranty". If you can prove the 5W-20 "caused" the damage, you will get your new engine.

most dealers pump oil out of a common 500 gallon tank.. they use recycled oil, whatever the local petroleum supply sells..

it's crap oil..

but seriously, a 30 to 20 weight change on the high end of viscosity is NOT GOING TO SPIN A BEARING. there has to be another factor that caused the damage.

[slvryaris]

I am running Royal Purple 5W-30 and Wix filter in mine. Seems to be doing real well and runs alot smoother and quieter.

[Shroomster]

-the Bro


Papa





Please for the love of god get separate screen names

[linny]

I use mobile 1 synthetic 0w20 oil in my yaris since my first oil change. I live near the coldest city in North America and my yaris seems to be quite happy with the thin oil at start up. This morning it was -32 F when I turned the key and it came right to life..
After switching to this grade oil I noticed a 3mpg increase in gas mileage.
Now, if I could only get some good heat in the cabin..

[TheSilkySmooth]

most dealers pump oil out of a common 500 gallon tank.. they use recycled oil, whatever the local petroleum supply sells..

it's crap oil..

but seriously, a 30 to 20 weight change on the high end of viscosity is NOT GOING TO SPIN A BEARING. there has to be another factor that caused the damage.

Why not? This is operating end of spec, And the viscosity is much less. SAE 30 is ~ 65% more viscous than SAE 20. 5.6 vs 9.3 cSt MIN. That bearing wont run out of hydrodynamic range too long before it gets hammerd egg shape at the top center of the top bearing shell, rod big end. Then you have Clack clack clack. Easily predictable failure - ignoramus EPA pushing AUtomakers to show higher CAFE numbers, Stupid managers making stupid decisions. Lucky toyota with the 60K engine warranty. I'll trade car at dealer that ruined it. I'll run 60W race oil to get it there.

- bro

[TheSilkySmooth]

Please for the love of god get separate screen names
Got it, schroom, the Fam is getting silly. Sis is kicked off because the site is "too technical" with not enough Trance and Disco discussions .... and .... she didn't get any marriage offers. Maybe if she would shave ANYWHERE once in a while she might have some luck:laugh:

[Chupacabra]

There is no way in hell you spun a bearing due to the change from 5-30 to 5-20. Try putting some oil in the car.....

[gid]

geesh ... talk about being to the point ...

[SilverGlow]

And regardless of what that Toyota TSB actually says?

It clearly states that 5w-20 is fine to use now, but the note at the top of the TSB says to stick with what's listed in the service manuals, owner's manual and oil cap, which happens to be 5w-30.

Looks like the dealer drew his own conclusions about what's best, just like you did when you started using and recommending Yaris owners to use 0w-20 because of UOAs for non-Yaris motors, and because the TSB said 0w-20 was okay to use in a Corolla, Scion XD, etc...but if I can read between the lines I'm guessing that you drained out the 0w-20 and took the dealer's advice about the 5w-20.

Nope, I'm still running 0w-20 because I know that at operational temps 0w-20 and 5w-20 provide the SAME protection. And the UOA's I've seen are for Yaris SPECIFICLY.

I have the TSB in front of me and it says that the Yaris engine can use the 20 weight. So where is the confusion? Where is the ambiguity?

It's very, very clear. If you have a Yaris, you can use 20 weight safely, and Toyota is behind what I wrote.

And if you look at the AMSOIL site (and Mobil1 too), you too will see that their 0w-20 can be used in ANY MOTOR that is spec'd for 5w-20. Safely.

So is your beloved AMSOIL wrong? Not!

[SilverGlow]

Our Camry engine is dead now from dealer using the 5W-20 ONCE on a tsb. My Spouse did not "hear" the engine disintegrating and I didin't find out until I went for a trip to her friends house. I said to her, " ... your engine has spun a rod beaing - get it to the dealer right away!", But Now she is 4000 miles OVER the warranty and we are S>O>L and money and good car.

So all you 20-weight proponents can stick it in your ear. This engine ran good on the 5W30 oil I was putting in. Dealer wrecked it. I will Trade for Nissan Rogue or sinilar, and Silver"worm"glow can buy my spouses destroyed trade-in because the oil is perfect. Moronic Nonsense!

Papa

There are MILLIONS of Camry and other Toyota vehicles running 20 weight right now. MILLIONS. And those MILLIONS have no engine problems.

MMMMIIIIILLLLLLLLIIIIOOONNNSSSSS. All over the nation.

I would suggest an adult night school course in statistics for you. It seems you need to educate yourself.

[gid]

the day I see 5w-20 stamped on the oil cap of an YARIS is when I'll consider using a 20 weight . Has to be same engine as the '07 > '09s .

[SilverGlow]

the day I see 5w-20 stamped on the oil cap of an YARIS is when I'll consider using a 20 weight . Has to be same engine as the '07 > '09s .

Then use 0w-30 and be happy.

[gid]

nope , no 0w-30 , not stated in the owners manual . Stick with 5w-30 until further notice .

[nsmitchell]

nope , no 0w-30 , not stated in the owners manual . Stick with 5w-30 until further notice .
Ummm... 0W-30 is a replacement oil for 5W-30 and 10W-30. All are 30 weight oils.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-30_Advanced_Fuel_Economy.asp

http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/d.cgi/1491254/which_30_weight_oil.htm

[Chupacabra]

geesh ... talk about being to the point ...


I apologize for the acuteness of the post but let's be real. I mean, that was/ is a blatant lie. There is a much, much highter liklihood that the oil pan was dry and he spun a bearing than he did from using 20wt. I hate when people blatantly lie like that and try to whip up everybody in a frenzy.

[1stToyota]

Nope, I'm still running 0w-20 because I know that at operational temps 0w-20 and 5w-20 provide the SAME protection. And the UOA's I've seen are for Yaris SPECIFICLY.

Then quit quoting the Toyota TSB and acting like you know something if you're going to continue using a viscosity that the TSB says is NOT to be used in the Yaris 1NZ-FE motor.

I have the TSB in front of me and it says that the Yaris engine can use the 20 weight. So where is the confusion? Where is the ambiguity?

It doesn't say to use straight 20 weight, it doesn't say to use 0w-20, it says 5w-20

It's very, very clear. If you have a Yaris, you can use 20 weight safely, and Toyota is behind what I wrote.

Absolutely false...it never, never says that 0w-20 is to be used, you're confusing the 0w-20 being okay for a Corolla and the XD, etc... and 5w-20 being okay for the Yaris.

And if you look at the AMSOIL site (and Mobil1 too), you too will see that their 0w-20 can be used in ANY MOTOR that is spec'd for 5w-20. Safely.

But that contradicts the guidelines of Toyota's TSB, and that's what Toyota will go by, what their TSB states, not AMSOIL's override.


So is your beloved AMSOIL wrong? Not!

Check my sig. Not using AMSOIL anymore because to get API approval ACEA A1/B1 is what I get, with no API approval I can get A5/B5, but if I ever have any warranty issues I want an oil that is API approved....and better than A1/B1 for my own reasons.

And they are wrong when their statements clash with Toyota's TSB guidelines, and still have to wonder why you're soooo worried about 0w-20 when you live in southern Ca that wouldn't know what a real winter was.

[1stToyota]

nope , no 0w-30 , not stated in the owners manual . Stick with 5w-30 until further notice .

And iirc, not stated on the Toyota TSB either. SilverGlow likes to juggle those TSB viscosity numbers, and the Scion XD and Yaris motors to his own liking and start handing out those recommendations, even though what he says won't be found anywhere on Toyota's TSB. Bad and dangerous, and ignorant advice, if you ask me.

[Chupacabra]

I am not going to say that I am right or wrong but I can't see any reason WHY somebody would want to run the 0-20. I mean, clearly the 5-30 is the best all around choice and I could even see 5-20 for some I guess but I am confused as to why somebody wants to run the 0wt.

[1stToyota]

I am not going to say that I am right or wrong but I can't see any reason WHY somebody would want to run the 0-20. I mean, clearly the 5-30 is the best all around choice and I could even see 5-20 for some I guess but I am confused as to why somebody wants to run the 0wt.

I can see it, if they live in Fargo or the Yukon, and want to run it when the climate starts getting cooler, can't see it tho' for a guy that lives in an area that never sees a white winter and needs a TSB in hand that can't ever seem to backup his own 0w-20 for a Yaris statements.

[Chupacabra]

Right but SilverGlow is in SoCal.

[1stToyota]

Right but SilverGlow is in SoCal.

And he's never seen a snow flake or an ice storm in southern Ca, but he insists on using 0w-20?? :confused:

[nsmitchell]

I am using Mobil-1 AFE (green cap) 0W-20 in my 2009 Honda Fit. The cap calls for 5W-20 so that's fine.

I am using AFE (green cap) 0W-30 in my 2007 Yaris. I don't think I'm going to go to 0W-20 eventhough the TSB says you can. The TSB is a little ambiguous.

I always use a Napa Gold (Wix) oil filter. They are awesome and not overpriced.

[1stToyota]

I am not going to say that I am right or wrong but I can't see any reason WHY somebody would want to run the 0-20. I mean, clearly the 5-30 is the best all around choice and I could even see 5-20 for some I guess but I am confused as to why somebody wants to run the 0wt.

I'm thinking about using Pennzoil Platinum, and for them 5w-30 seems to be the best choice.

0w-20 and 5w-20 grades only get a ACEA A1 rating, but the 5w-30 gets a ACEA A5/B5 rating that matches the Amsoil HP 5w-30 that I'm now using, but with the PP I'll feel a little better with the API approval on the front label.

[fj40dave]

Well....if anyone wants AMSOIL at dealer cost.....just PM me :-)
I use it.....and I'm not going to get into a discussion/defending position on my preferance...it's mine, not yours.

http://xs134.xs.to/xs134/08513/asl469.jpg.xs.jpg (http://xs.to/xs.php?h=xs134&d=08513&f=asl469.jpg)

$6.95/qt
$27.15/gal
+ shipping (usually around 9-10 bucks)

[Shroomster]

I'm thinking about using Pennzoil Platinum, and for them 5w-30 seems to be the best choice.

0w-20 and 5w-20 grades only get a ACEA A1 rating, but the 5w-30 gets a ACEA A5/B5 rating that matches the Amsoil HP 5w-30 that I'm now using, but with the PP I'll feel a little better with the API approval on the front label.

my god the prices for synthetic oil are ridiculous anymore....

I went and priced some at ADAP (wal-mart was out of stock of all 5w20)
and for castrol and Mobil synthetic they were $7.69 + 6.5% tax and Pennzoil platinum was 8.09 + 6.5% tax craziness.....

[TheSilkySmooth]

There are MILLIONS of Camry and other Toyota vehicles running 20 weight right now. MILLIONS. And those MILLIONS have no engine problems.

MMMMIIIIILLLLLLLLIIIIOOONNNSSSSS. All over the nation.

I would suggest an adult night school course in statistics for you. It seems you need to educate yourself.
Show me the engine failure rate statistics. You have NO information. This information doesn't
exist in the public domain. You are making up data (74% of alll statistice are made up on the spot). Plus it doesn't matter, Our engine failed. My neighbors Rav4 has a bad engine rap also. He put QS higher milage in it and it didn't quiet it.

BTW Silver, you have no credibility here amoungst educated adults.

VW/porsche/Audi I suppose are the only ones smart enough to spec the A3/B3.

signed: +/-3 sigma

[TheSilkySmooth]

I'm thinking about using Pennzoil Platinum, and for them 5w-30 seems to be the best choice.

0w-20 and 5w-20 grades only get a ACEA A1 rating, but the 5w-30 gets a ACEA A5/B5 rating that matches the Amsoil HP 5w-30 that I'm now using, but with the PP I'll feel a little better with the API approval on the front label. When we ran the PP in the suzuki, it seemed OK for the first 100miles then it got that old "GUMMY" VI package feeling that YB-P has. Not a true syn. Protection may be OK, but actual running of the motor is Not good enough for me. Please try the PP and let us know though. GID seems happy with it and he seems to be a logical, practical guy.

Just my dos centavos

[nsmitchell]

No way am I putting PP in my oil! Urine has poor lubricating properties.

[1stToyota]

When we ran the PP in the suzuki, it seemed OK for the first 100miles then it got that old "GUMMY" VI package feeling that YB-P has. Not a true syn. Protection may be OK, but actual running of the motor is Not good enough for me. Please try the PP and let us know though. GID seems happy with it and he seems to be a logical, practical guy.

Just my dos centavos

This AMSOIL HP is too good to drain out, so I won't actually use PP until I hit 15K.

After researching LubroMoly I noticed the 5w-30 had good specs, but was a syn blend and not API approved, so I bought a case of LUCAS thinking it was API approved. Not using it in my Yaris, but already sold 6 of them to a guy in a Chevy SS Impala. After too much thinking on what'd be best overall, made up my mind on Pennzoil Platinum for it's good UOAs, API appoval, ACEA A5/B5 ...I know the AMSOIL HP probably wasn't API approved because it exceeded the API rating, but for safety's sake I'll make the switch to PP. Number's wise, looks good, but I'll let you know. After running the AMSOIL for 5K, I'll see if I notice anything strange happening with the PP.

[gid]

I am using Mobil-1 AFE (green cap) 0W-20 in my 2009 Honda Fit. The cap calls for 5W-20 so that's fine.

I am using AFE (green cap) 0W-30 in my 2007 Yaris. I don't think I'm going to go to 0W-20 eventhough the TSB says you can. The TSB is a little ambiguous.

I always use a Napa Gold (Wix) oil filter. They are awesome and not overpriced. that the T.S.B. from TOYOTA had post . The 0w-20 is for other vehicles such as CAMRY , etc..

[gid]

had tried the 5w-20 for the liftback and could hear a whining noise at highway speeds so drained the 5w-20 ( PENNZOIL Platinum ) and installed the 5w-30 using SHELL full synthetic . Now , no noise . Timing chain , other ? :iono:

[mikenacarato]

There are MILLIONS of Camry and other Toyota vehicles running 20 weight right now. MILLIONS. And those MILLIONS have no engine problems.

MMMMIIIIILLLLLLLLIIIIOOONNNSSSSS. All over the nation.

I would suggest an adult night school course in statistics for you. It seems you need to educate yourself.

so..those are camrys....not yarii..and wheres your statistics degree?

[Chupacabra]

had tried the 5w-20 for the liftback and could hear a whining noise at highway speeds so drained the 5w-20 ( PENNZOIL Platinum ) and installed the 5w-30 using SHELL full synthetic . Now no noise . Timing chain , other ? :iono:


So what was your reasoning for putting 5-20 in the car?

[gid]

So what was your reasoning for putting 5-20 in the car? possible increase in mileage , and few other reasons . Like yeh said , trial and error .

[Lafiro]

Ok, so I will be buying oil in a few hours when I wake up.

But as for Wix and other oil filters, I see two or three part numbers.

Can someone please tell me a few "good/excellent" oil filters for use with probably royal purple on my yaris sedan with the part number next to it.

This way I can buy it and change the oil myself at my friends shop.
Then I will reset the maint Req light and end that for the next few thousand miles.

Thank you everyone.

[Chupacabra]

possible increase in mileage , and few other reasons . Like yeh said , trial and error .

increase in mileage = NOT going to happen
few other reasons = NON existent
Better cold flow = NO difference unless you live in an ICEBOX.

[gid]

increase in mileage = NOT going to happen
few other reasons = NON existent
Better cold flow = NO difference unless you live in an ICEBOX. NOT going to happen . :biggrin:

[Chupacabra]

NOT going to happen . :biggrin:


No....you meant "Me being wrong = Not going to happen" :wink:

[linny]

increase in mileage = NOT going to happen
few other reasons = NON existent
Better cold flow = NO difference unless you live in an ICEBOX.

I am with gid on this.
Those that deal out absolutes often are wrong.:frown:

[Chupacabra]

I am with gid on this.
Those that deal out absolutes often are wrong.:frown:

It's not rocket science. If you think that you are going to get better gas mileage by going to a 5-20 from a 5-30 you are sadly, sadly mistaken. If you can explain to me how you are going to see a noticeable difference...I am open ears my friend. A few other reasons....I don't know what that means or what those are???? I assume that means nothing, which it does unless gid can come in explain these phantom things. And last but not least....better cold flow???? I mean, common man. Be real. Use what the car calls for...what it is designed and ENGINEERED to run on and yes, it being a motor driven via timing chain does make a difference. I could care less if you are with gid or not....go with the gid! :thumbup::clap:

[mikenacarato]

chup...he may see a .01 mpg variance... :)

[1stToyota]

Ok, so I will be buying oil in a few hours when I wake up.

But as for Wix and other oil filters, I see two or three part numbers.

Can someone please tell me a few "good/excellent" oil filters for use with probably royal purple on my yaris sedan with the part number next to it.

This way I can buy it and change the oil myself at my friends shop.
Then I will reset the maint Req light and end that for the next few thousand miles.

Thank you everyone.

Napa Gold/WIX are really good. PNs are: 1394 for the Napa Gold, 51394 for the WIX
Another good choice, for less money (found @ Napa) Nippon filter. PN: 3612412

[1stToyota]

I think we can calm down now, Gid hasn't used 5w-20 for quite some time now. Besides, Toyota's own TSB mentioned its "superiority in terms of fuel economy" ...so maybe fuel economy is improved, but Gid didn't like the extra engine noise and went back to using 5w-30

[Lafiro]

Ok I did the following:
4quarts of Royal Purple 5w30
K&N Oil Filter

I must say, I do feel a slight difference in performance, and smoothness of the engine now.

Im happy.

[auxmike]

I'm stickin' with the Toyota OEM filters. Bought a case.
I use whatever synth is on sale at PepBoys.
'nuff said.....:thumbsup:

[TheSilkySmooth]

My problem with "synthetic oil " in the u.S, it is a marketing term ONLY now and people are paying a lot of extra dough for a "false" product that does not even come close to full synthetic oils Like EUropean ELF (total brand) excellium, Fuchs and Motul E-tech and 300V. Americans have been lulled and fooled into incompetence and Ignorance on the subject and brainwashed by marketing. Fools you all! Almost ALL synthetic you buy in N.A is "fake". Only maybe Mobil 1 EP of various weights + 0W-40 euro formula; then the 0w-30 cult status (not earned) "gold" castrol DE and 0W40 castrol euro formula made in DE. is the real thing. We can ONLY guess since marketing allowances for refined petro oil to be called "synthetic" and the Brands tight lipped about constituents and I.P. Again , the Deutsch makken produit, not Estates Uni creativ, may afford you a real synthetic if you do not wish to scrounge the "gray-market" imports. These Yamaha designed, high specific output engines deserve or even REQUIRE high performance oil. They run HOT and will end up full of varnish with poor performance in under 10K if yo do not run the 'good stuff".

[Chupacabra]

So I guess my question to you is....is Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic motor oil not what they say it is? In other words, is it not fully synthetic motor oil?

[gid]

not a " TRUE SYNTHETIC " like that of AMSOIL , REDLINE , etc..

[TheSilkySmooth]

So I guess my question to you is....is Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic motor oil not what they say it is? In other words, is it not fully synthetic motor oil? What is your understanding of a "fully synthetic" motor oil? What is a synthetic motor oil? Are there differing types of Synthetic lubricant molecules, and, which ones are better suited for which purposes? I would spend some time researching this. Most ALL people are ignorant on this subject and DON'T get your info off a forum.

[auxmike]

and DON'T get your info off a forum.

Exactly.
That's why I'm taking everything you said with a "grain of salt"....:biggrin:

[suiller]

sorry to bore again... but someone can drive me to a good site/ebay where to buy Amsoil oils? seems almost impossible to "export" a bottle of amsoil outside US. thx

[Lazerdot]

My understanding is that if as little as 10% of the oil is "sysnthetic" it can be called synthetic.

Obviously, as an Amsoil Dealer, I'd like you to consider using Amsoil. We have a Synthetic 0w-30 that can be used for 17,500 miles(or one year) miles under severe conditions. Our Synthetic 5w-30 is good for 15,000 miles(or one year) under severe conditions. Many other oils are good for OEM only drain intervals under these conditions. Check the fine print on the other labels.
Amsoil can save you time, money and create less waste oil due to oil changes and it burns off at a lower rate then other oils.

Check out my dealer page at TruLube.com. for more information

[TheSilkySmooth]

My understanding is that if as little as 10% of the oil is "sysnthetic" it can be called synthetic.

Obviously, as an Amsoil Dealer, I'd like you to consider using Amsoil. We have a Synthetic 0w-30 that can be used for 17,500 miles(or one year) miles under severe conditions. Our Synthetic 5w-30 is good for 15,000 miles(or one year) under severe conditions. Many other oils are good for OEM only drain intervals under these conditions. Check the fine print on the other labels.
Amsoil can save you time, money and create less waste oil due to oil changes and it burns off at a lower rate then other oils.

Check out my dealer page at TruLube.com. for more information No it can be 0% synthetic and be called synthetic due to NAB ruling of Mobil v. BP ( Castrol) in the late 1990's. The Synthetic Amsoils are real synthetic, and the SSO is super special.

[Yaris_Fan]

lol! @ anyone thinking the Yaris engine won't last 200k miles doing 5k OCI's on any modern oil that meets specs

my advice would be to use what's on sale

[TheSilkySmooth]

The yaras 1NZ engine can be hard on the oil due to the inverted bucket tappets and the cam chain drive. Luckily the valve spring pressure is really light - IIRC about 40LBS closed - but you can still get galling of the lobe due to high ramp rates and mass acceleration at high rpm. The problem with PAO based synthetc is its not a good lubricant. That includes most amsoil and Mobil 1 (at least the M1 with majority PAO base), DIesters POE and AN synthetics have much a better inherent lubricity and polarity that PAO based syns lack. Source Motul and Fuchs silkolene for the "best" synthetic oils.

[Indianspringsaz]

The yaras 1NZ engine can be hard on the oil due to the inverted bucket tappets and the cam chain drive. Luckily the valve spring pressure is really light - IIRC about 40LBS closed - but you can still get galling of the lobe due to high ramp rates and mass acceleration at high rpm. The problem with PAO based synthetc is its not a good lubricant. That includes most amsoil and Mobil 1 (at least the M1 with majority PAO base), DIesters POE and AN synthetics have much a better inherent lubricity and polarity that PAO based syns lack. Source Motul and Fuchs silkolene for the "best" synthetic oils.

First I have heard of this. Would you post some references? I am interested in oils, and always learning something.

[Henry G.]

I agree ester synthetics are superior, but I dont think its fair to says PAO synthetics aren't good lubricants. They are. Oil has come a long way in the last 20 or so years.....

[TheSilkySmooth]

Haunt BITOG and NORIA forums for more info and trashing than you can stand.

[TheSilkySmooth]

I agree ester synthetics are superior, but I dont think its fair to says PAO synthetics aren't good lubricants. They are. Oil has come a long way in the last 20 or so years..... If you research further and look at unadditised testing of PAO v. group II and POE and diester you will find that lowly group II oil is a better lubricant than PAO by far. PAO is not stable at high temps and will oxidise thicken and varnish. It does not solubilise important additives at all. It doesnt stick to metal being inherently nonpolar. It s probably servicable at extremely low temps with healthy and complex additisation for low stress application. Not a "race" or "sporting" oil by any stretch.

[sbergman27]

If you research further and look at unadditised testing of PAO v. group II and POE and diester you will find that lowly group II oil is a better lubricant than PAO by far. PAO is not stable at high temps and will oxidise thicken and varnish.
Thanks for the info. Would you mind posting a few links to data supporting that?