Tire pressure?

[otterhere]

So where do you guys keep your tires for best MPGs? I figured unless the alarm came on (warning system), they were fine, but now I'm wondering...

[YAR1S]

.... I personally set them to 32.... just cause I dont want to be on the end of a lawsuit... resulting from a crash that could be attributed to traction loss on my part.


Besides... from what I've heard the differnce isnt much... give or take a few miles, right?

[BailOut]

Increasing tire pressure increases handling, traction and tread life as well as mileage. I run mine at 60 PSI, as do thousands of other hypermilers.


Besides... from what I've heard the differnce isnt much... give or take a few miles, right?

Fuel efficiency is all about many tactics adding up to significant gains. Tire pressure is one of the larger factors.

[YarisSedan]

=>

[YarisSedan]

I think the max for a small passanger car tire is 50psi tops. Also the reason why you get better gas milage is becuase now you have less tire to pavement contanct resulting in less rolling resistance. But in turn you will wear out the center of your tire very quickly. There is also a reduction in traction after you get past a certain point of overinflation. Which randomly guessing would be around 45. As well as greater chance of damage to the tire from potholes and road debri. Also depending on the weather climate where you live and the speeds you are going the heat will cause the air in the tire to expand by a few more pounds. Just like when youloose a few pounds of air in colder climate. This could result in psi ranges of 65. Only tires i know that are meant to be run at those raitings are the huge truck tires.

If you want to get the best economy with handling inprovements without and risk or increased wear on tire i would set it around 40. But definately not in the 60s.

[PreciousPups4U]

Mine are around 40 - 42 psi. That rides best to me. Not sure how it affects mpg, it's just what's comfortable to me. I can really tell when they get low.

[gid]

33 > 35 p.s.i. . Still averaging in the upper 30's at these settings . Check every week or so due to change in the temps .

[gid]

here we go again ... temps will rise and some will have a blowout :rolleyes: .

[b_hickman11]

I run 6 psi....I like to hear that thud a thud a thud sound when I drive!

[*MAD DOG*]

Increasing tire pressure increases handling, traction and tread life as well as mileage. I run mine at 60 PSI, as do thousands of other hypermilers.

Fuel efficiency is all about many tactics adding up to significant gains. Tire pressure is one of the larger factors.

Too high. You'll have a blowout on a hot day. Your tires are a ticking timebomb.

Mine are around 40 - 42 psi. That rides best to me. Not sure how it affects mpg, it's just what's comfortable to me. I can really tell when they get low.

That's what I run mine at and that is the maximum the handbook recommends. I feel that 40-42 psi is perfect.

[BailOut]

*MAD DOG*, gid, YarisSedan:

Nearly 4,000,000 road miles between folks at CleanMPG, PriusChat and other sites say that you are wrong. My experience and the experience of every other MPG-minded person on this site says you're wrong. The engineers from Nokian that we spoke to about this issue - at length - say you're wrong.

What you three say held true up through the 1980's, but with the move to steel belted radials and modern materials beginning in the early 1990's everything changed. It is time to update your personal stock of information.

[rningonfumes]

60 psi here And did it all summer too.

I think I scared the Good year tire guy when I had to get one of my tires patched...I even warned him a head of time. He got curious when I asked him to leave the psi of the other tire alone, so he checked one of the good ones and found them to be about 75 when hot.

[talnlnky]

i try to stay near the upper limits of the sidewall rating on the tires... so...40-45psi for me. Problem is... temps have dropped about 60F over the past 3 months, so it seems i'm always adding air to keep it up.... In the spring i'll have to pay attention to make sure I don't go above 45.

[*MAD DOG*]

*MAD DOG*, gid, YarisSedan:

Nearly 4,000,000 road miles between folks at CleanMPG, PriusChat and other sites say that you are wrong. My experience and the experience of every other MPG-minded person on this site says you're wrong. The engineers from Nokian that we spoke to about this issue - at length - say you're wrong.

What you three say held true up through the 1980's, but with the move to steel belted radials and modern materials beginning in the early 1990's everything changed. It is time to update your personal stock of information.

60 psi here And did it all summer too.

I think I scared the Good year tire guy when I had to get one of my tires patched...I even warned him a head of time. He got curious when I asked him to leave the psi of the other tire alone, so he checked one of the good ones and found them to be about 75 when hot.

About 9 years ago I had tires over inflated at 50 psi on a car. It was a hot day around 37c and I was on a freeway doing 100km/h I was going around a bend and I heard a loud bang and thud thud thud thud.

I pulled over to the emergency lane very slowly and braked ever so slowly.
When I got out to examine the damage I noticed the tread had popped off my front left tire, some had wrapped around my steering arm and other wheel related stuff.

The rest had been blown apart and was on the freeway. The tire remained inflated but the tread was shredded and gone. I will not over inflate my tires. 40-42 is the maximum in the handbook, that is only recommended for the rear tires under load, that is as far as i will go.

If your suicidal and want to have your tires running between 60-75psi go ahead. Just tell your loved ones that you love them everyday, as it may be the last time you see them.

[BailOut]

*MAD DOG*,

Tires blow out due to manufacturing defects or excessively hard driving. It is likely that the one tire you experienced this with one time would have blown out even at a lower pressure.

By your logic someone that had a blowout at the pressure on the door jamb could forever run around claiming that you should run 20 PSI lower than the door jamb.

[06silveryaris]

40 psi car feels good and when pushed hard I do not see any wear on the sidewalls.

[b_hickman11]

I wonder if they could make tires out of used condoms.....

[YarisSedan]

Well I guess you should help rewrite the books and reteach the teachers at my school. Cause when i took tire and alignment in school they specifically made it clear to make sure you never inflate a tire past the maximum amount stated on the sidewall.

Sidewide is there for a reason to be able to flex and absorb defects in the road. Otherwise on a loaded car at high speeds you hit a large dip or pothole kaboom. Not to metion if you have a 08 model with tire pressure sensors and you atempt to put more than 50 psi in your tire you will damage the sensors. So that 1 or 2 mpg you save results in you spending hundreds for replacement sensors. Or the additional tire wear that is going to cost you more on tire replacement. Or the fact the in wet weather you are more likely to skid. Or the decrease in your stopping distance making your car more likely to get in a accident if someone cuts you off.

So now not only are you putting yourself at risk you are putting others. Thats just my 2 cents. Ive read several hypermiling articles and techniques. And many of them advise not to overinflate your tires beyond the max. I worked at a tire shop a few years back and i remember whenever we had to inflate the tires to set the bead we would put the tire in a tire cage if we needed excessive pressure like in the 70s for fear of the tire exploding and injuring employees. But wait osha requires the employees to have a tire cage in all tire shops when inflating tires in excessive psi past the max raiting of the tire?

I am basing my knowlege what i was taught in school and from real life experince.

[gid]

I find that anything above 35 p.s.i. makes for a much stiffer ride . Thus when tires are set at high p.s.i. it makes for more wear and tear on your suspension . Tires are considered part of the suspension . Go here , www.caranddriver.com/reviews/hot_lists/high_performance/features_classic_cars/gas_pains_mileage_myths_and_misconceptions_feature +page-5.html .

[*MAD DOG*]

*MAD DOG*,

Tires blow out due to manufacturing defects or excessively hard driving. It is likely that the one tire you experienced this with one time would have blown out even at a lower pressure.

By your logic someone that had a blowout at the pressure on the door jamb could forever run around claiming that you should run 20 PSI lower than the door jamb.

Look dude. I, as you have made my feelings quite clear on this topic. I :respekt: you. I think we'll just have to agree to disagree on this one.

[Snyprwlf47]

I run 6 psi....I like to hear that thud a thud a thud sound when I drive!

ROTFL... Anywho I run 40-42 PSI for mountain racing to prevent tire roll...As a side note most tires have a max sidewall pressure posted on them of about 45-50 depending on manufacturer....They should put crosses on tire pressure gauges at about 55 PSI cause at that point your praying every time you press the gas!!!:evil:

[YAR1S]

Ongoing debate.... wether or not 60+ psi will be more good than bad.

personally I would rather run them at safe levels... in the 40 range... rather than in the 60 range...

I still average at 40 mpg, at 32 psi in my tires... Im not willing to get a few more by inflating my tires more....
A lot of points have been made here today but in the end its what you feel comfortable with... we all have respect for one another.... and there isnt a rule for PSI in tires... but there are ups and downs for all ranges....

I'd love to see some stats. on the amounts of tire damage/blowouts on specified limits versus over-inflation....
from a good source too.... not just from drivers submitting online their info...


Hmm.

[voodoo22]

Look dude. I, as you have made my feelings quite clear on this topic. I :respekt: you. I think we'll just have to agree to disagree on this one.

A tire is more likely to blow out if it's under inflated than over.

When a tire is under inflated, this creates too much flex in the sidewall which in turn, causes excess heat to build up in the sidewall and then boom.

Regardless of what is safe or not, the psi on your tires will change the handling characteristics of your car and you should not go from one range to another in one fell swoop, but instead, get to where you want to be in small increments of maybe 5 psi at a time so you can get used to how your car handles.

The only thing which degrades on your car as you increase the tire pressure is ride comfort.

As you decrease your tire pressure you will lower your handling, increase hydroplaning properties of the tire, accelerate wear of the tires, raise the chance of a blow out, waste more gas, etc etc.

Anyone running less than the max sidewall psi listed on the tire is only gaining comfort. On todays tires you can safely run at 60 psi like Bailout does, but you should always, only setup your car in a manner you're comfortable with.

If you believe that running your tires at 50 psi will cause a blowout, it doesn't matter if this is fact or not, it's what you believe, so follow your rules. Facts gathered over 100's of thousands of miles dictate higher psi's are safer and will save you money, but facts also dictate that the market goes up and down and I'll be damned if I put one cent in stocks... ever!:smile:

Under inflated and overinflated mean different things to different people.

The only situation where under inflated makes sense is in extreme off roading or some kinds or rally racing.

To me, under inflated is anything under max sidewall listed on the tire and overinflated is anything over max sidewall. The psi listed on the door jam of the vehicle is nothing more than the best psi for ride comfort.

The most important thing is to form your own opinions by testing your setup and other peoples theories. Don't attempt to drive with something you're not comfortable with, but don't be afraid to push your comfort level in controlled conditions to learn the real facts about your car and it's equipment.

This morning I safely passed hundreds of cars driving in track bare and sometimes snow/ice covered conditions on my winter tires inflated to 56psi, because this is what I'm comfortable with. This is the setup which I find gives me the best traction, control and handling and 56psi is as high as my pump will go. I did start out at 32psi when I got the tires, but kept upping the psi by 5psi over the past 1 and a half winters. The most important this is that I have amazing control with this setup and thus am able to drive extremely safely, it's a side benefit that I also am able to get over 50 US MPG often in the winter now and that the tires are showing very little wear.

[*MAD DOG*]

I wonder if they could make tires out of used condoms.....

How do you think they make goodyear tires? They get 365 used condoms and turn it into a tire and call it a "good year" :wink:

[DFA]

I run mine at ~40-45 (max sidewall), i haven't checked in awhile so it might be lower than 40 right now.

[smacky]

I run mine at 50 psi cold, though I really should check them more often. I am thinking about going up to 55 soon though. With all the miles logged by Bailout and everybody at cleanmpg.com have, I really don't think it is an issue at all.

[YAR1S]

How do you think they make goodyear tires? They get 365 used condoms and turn it into a tire and call it a "good year" :wink:

haha oh my god.... :clap:

[DefStarYaris]

I keep mine at about 35psi. Works fine for me.

[nemelek]

Which tire lasts longer? The one that runs at 32psi or the one that runs at 60psi?

[4MPG]

Increasing tire pressure increases handling, traction and tread life as well as mileage. I run mine at 60 PSI, as do thousands of other hypermilers.




Fuel efficiency is all about many tactics adding up to significant gains. Tire pressure is one of the larger factors.

more pressure may increase mileage, but it sure as hell doesn't increase handling/traction or tire life.

your getting better mpg because you have less tire contact on the road (less resistance) and less flex (wasted energy). However, this also results in less traction and poorer handling. It will also reduce tire life by wearing the center tread faster, since it takes all the wear instead of spreading it over the entire tire... you will get a bald center with tread still on the sides. You can see a picture of this at almost any tire store, as they usually have them posted up along with the reason for it happening and what causes it etc. While overinflation might result in a drop in tire temp, the center wear will outweigh any benefit.

If you want even more proof, especially on the traction side, visit any local dragstrip. You will see all of the "street" cars lowering tire pressure after they arrive, and almost any dragstrip worth its salt has a compressor so you can bring them back to road pressure before you leave. The drag radials on my mustang are particularly sensitive to tire pressure, going from 25 to 20 PSI resulted in nearly a .2 second faster 60' time. Even on my buddies T/A, with stock goodyear regular radials, he was regularly picking up .1 in the 60' with a 5-8 PSI drop from his street pressure.

For traction, and to a lesser degree handling (gotta keep the pressure up enough to keep the sidewall fairly stiff) you want a lower than standard pressure, not higher. You want as much resistance as possible, as resistance is what gives you traction/handling, and to achieve this you get as much contact patch as you can. The basic idea is to lower the pressure to the point that you have as much of the outer part of the tire in contact as possible, without causing the center section to actually start rising from the road (too underinflated).

Edit: To answer the poster above me, to get maximum tire life your probably going to want to run your tires a few (3-5) PSI higher than the doorjam recommends. The doorjam takes into account the best PSI for the tire, but it also takes into account that a lower pressure will result in a better ride (soaks up more vibration/bumps etc).

[BailOut]

4MPG,

Your logic is flawed in several ways.

1) Center tread wear has not been an issue since the invention of the steel belted radial. Please update your personal cache of information.

2) I already mentioned that dropping pressure by a significant amount will help traction, but it does so through a pure "grippy" fashion rather than a tread-clearing fashion and will eat through your tires rather quickly. While this technique can certainly work on a clean, dry track the real world is a much different environment.

3) Your ideas on everyday traction seem solid except for one glaring issue: Millions of miles of road testing - that is testing as opposed to simply regurgitating what one was told one time - have shown the exact opposite to be true. Even police departments are starting to mandate pressures as much as 50% higher than the old recommendations for better handling and longer tread life.



Which tire lasts longer? The one that runs at 32psi or the one that runs at 60psi?
The one that runs at higher pressure, every single time. This has held true over millions of road miles of testing, in every kind of environment and on every type of vehicle it has been tried on. You certainly have the freedom to believe regurgitated rhetoric but for my money I go where the actual testing has been done. :smile:

[tuckevalastin]

I run 36psi

[b_hickman11]

4MPG,

Your logic is flawed in several ways.

1) Center tread wear has not been an issue since the invention of the steel belted radial. Please update your personal cache of information.

The one that runs at higher pressure, every single time. This has held true over millions of road miles of testing, in every kind of environment and on every type of vehicle it has been tried on. You certainly have the freedom to believe regurgitated rhetoric but for my money I go where the actual testing has been done. :smile:

I had a 2005 Tacoma with factory 20's on it and went through 2 sets of tires in the 3 years I had it. The 1st set of tires had massive center tread wear problems, and yes they were radial tires. So yes its still an issue. I was running about 5 psi over the recommeded psi and the dealer told me that was the reason why. The 2nd set of tires I ran at or below the recommeded psi and I didnt have the center wear problem. Also the 2nd set of tires lasted about 20,000 miles longer than the 1st set. Both sets were the same brand. So theres some actual real world examples. None of this "testing" crap.

[BailOut]

I had a 2005 Tacoma with factory 20's on it and went through 2 sets of tires in the 3 years I had it. The 1st set of tires had massive center tread wear problems, and yes they were radial tires. So yes its still an issue. I was running about 5 psi over the recommeded psi and the dealer told me that was the reason why. The 2nd set of tires I ran at or below the recommeded psi and I didnt have the center wear problem. Also the 2nd set of tires lasted about 20,000 miles longer than the 1st set. Both sets were the same brand. So theres some actual real world examples. None of this "testing" crap.

Perhaps your first set of tires were not steel belted? Many truck tires are not, or are not fully belted. The ones that came on my friend's 2004 Tacoma were not fully steel belted, nor were the ones that came on my coworker's 2008 Tacoma.

Additionally, I would be wary of trusting anything undocumented from a dealership, and only about half of what is actually documented. They are in the business of making money and will say anything to that end. They simply DO NOT want you to get any kind of longevity out of your tires, especially if they offer a tire service.

[b_hickman11]

Perhaps your first set of tires were not steel belted? Many truck tires are not, or are not fully belted. The ones that came on my friend's 2004 Tacoma were not fully steel belted, nor were the ones that came on my coworker's 2008 Tacoma.

Additionally, I would be wary of trusting anything undocumented from a dealership, and only about half of what is actually documented. They are in the business of making money and will say anything to that end. They simply DO NOT want you to get any kind of longevity out of your tires, especially if they offer a tire service.

They were both the same brand of tires and both were steel belted. The rims and tires were an upgrad offered that they get from an independent dist. So the information was not coming from the dealership, it was coming from GST. Im assuming your friend and co-worker's Tacos didnt have 20's did they? No, they probably had 16's or 17's. Got any more excuses?

[BailOut]

I am not sure where all your venom comes from b_hickman11, but it is uncalled for. Your experience, if truthful and accurate, is unique in all that I and thousands of others have learned and experienced at higher pressures.

[b_hickman11]

So its a fluke? Right.....

[BailOut]

Yes, I believe it is either a fluke or a misrepresentation by those that told you it was the fault of the higher pressure in order to escape their own culpability for a substandard product.

[b_hickman11]

The one that runs at higher pressure, every single time. This has held true over millions of road miles of testing, in every kind of environment and on every type of vehicle it has been tried on. You certainly have the freedom to believe regurgitated rhetoric but for my money I go where the actual testing has been done. :smile:

Who paid for this testing? Most tire test done are usually paid for by a certain tire company therefore their results they get might not be as accurate as they really are. Money rules all. Also while we are on this note, you have to be careful what you see and here on TV, the net or magazines. For example, I saw some ad on TV last night that said "Men are 4 times more likely to be struck by lightning than women." I bet there are a lot of people that saw that and said "Damn I'm glad I'm a women," or "Damn being a guy is hard." BUT you have to look more into the situation and understand why that is untrue. It should have said "Men get struck by lightning on average 4 times more than women."

[edisonfire]

i had a set of Bridgestone Winterforce tires put on the Yaris for the winter. I checked the pressure and it's at about 35 psi. The max on the sidewall of the tire said 44 psi. I called the Bridgestone/Firestone tire dealer that installed the tires and asked them why so underinflated. They told me that the best thing to do woudl be to stay within what the car is rated for (whatever it says on the door label)

I think it's a load of crap, cuz I'm losing about 100 kms per tank ever since. Can I inflate to 44psi?

[TheRealEnth]

I think it's a load of crap, cuz I'm losing about 100 kms per tank ever since.
Maybe thats why i noticed a difference in mpg when i switched tires? I inflated to the what the car says on door label?

[Snyprwlf47]

Listen center tread wear can easily be tested the same way I use to test my tires for roll on turns. On a dry day take a piece of sidewalk chalk and just make 4 or 5 1inch-2inchthick lines from the sidewall and across the tread. Drive your car for just a mile or less and check to see where the chalk has been worn off. I bet that at 60 PSI you will see substantial center tread wear and at 32 if you have taken a hard turn will find that some chalk has been worn off of the sidewall!!! Easy test that I owe Loren for helping me find to use on autocross:thumbup:

[50MPGDream]

over 22,000 miles logged on the stock tires at 50 PSI

and for the record, i once had a blowout in my camaro on a tire that was less than a week old with the PSI at 32... not all blowouts are related to PSI, and I think it's safe to say that it had nothing to do with the PSI but more to do with whatever was on the road that poked the hole in the tire

If you want even more proof, especially on the traction side, visit any local dragstrip. You will see all of the "street" cars lowering tire pressure after they arrive, and almost any dragstrip worth its salt has a compressor so you can bring them back to road pressure before you leave. The drag radials on my mustang are particularly sensitive to tire pressure, going from 25 to 20 PSI resulted in nearly a .2 second faster 60' time. Even on my buddies T/A, with stock goodyear regular radials, he was regularly picking up .1 in the 60' with a 5-8 PSI drop from his street pressure.
My camaro's best 60' time (1.8xx) came on a set of drag radials at 20 PSI, but that relates to MPG in no way (I'm sure I was using more than a gallon per mile in those 60 feet)

[voodoo22]

i had a set of Bridgestone Winterforce tires put on the Yaris for the winter. I checked the pressure and it's at about 35 psi. The max on the sidewall of the tire said 44 psi. I called the Bridgestone/Firestone tire dealer that installed the tires and asked them why so underinflated. They told me that the best thing to do woudl be to stay within what the car is rated for (whatever it says on the door label)

I think it's a load of crap, cuz I'm losing about 100 kms per tank ever since. Can I inflate to 44psi?

If I was in your boat I'd put them up to 44psi and slowly try going even higher. The only downside to doing this will be a harsher ride, but handling, traction, FE and tire wear will all improve.

[voodoo22]

Who paid for this testing? Most tire test done are usually paid for by a certain tire company therefore their results they get might not be as accurate as they really are. Money rules all. Also while we are on this note, you have to be careful what you see and here on TV, the net or magazines. For example, I saw some ad on TV last night that said "Men are 4 times more likely to be struck by lightning than women." I bet there are a lot of people that saw that and said "Damn I'm glad I'm a women," or "Damn being a guy is hard." BUT you have to look more into the situation and understand why that is untrue. It should have said "Men get struck by lightning on average 4 times more than women."

You've had bad experiences, but if I was you I'd look deeper into what could have caused your problems, because from my own experience and the experience of plenty of other people over a large number of miles, even going past max sidewall does not cause any problems in the situations like Bailout described.

I don't doubt that you're telling the truth about your own personal experience, but you can't ignore the data gathered by a large membership at CleanMPG for example where no one has had any issues caused from inflating tires to max sidewall or even a little above and the thing is NO ONE paid for this testing. This testing is all done by normal people like you and I and Bailout who have nothing to gain by lying about results. They're only trying to help people be less wasteful of resources and save money with safe practices which are only questioned by the industries which directly benefit from you wasting these same resources.

It's great to have a strong opinion on things, but you can't close the door to so many other peoples experiences or "testing". I'm glad I didn't. I've learned a great deal from Bailout and others like him in the different online communities. To the point where the performance I am getting out of our car is not believed by people who are still pre-believers like I once was.:biggrin:

[b_hickman11]

i had a set of Bridgestone Winterforce tires put on the Yaris for the winter. I checked the pressure and it's at about 35 psi. The max on the sidewall of the tire said 44 psi. I called the Bridgestone/Firestone tire dealer that installed the tires and asked them why so underinflated. They told me that the best thing to do woudl be to stay within what the car is rated for (whatever it says on the door label)

I think it's a load of crap, cuz I'm losing about 100 kms per tank ever since. Can I inflate to 44psi?

You dont think that maybe your mpg went down its WINTER??

[b_hickman11]

You've had bad experiences, but if I was you I'd look deeper into what could have caused your problems, because from my own experience and the experience of plenty of other people over a large number of miles, even going past max sidewall does not cause any problems in the situations like Bailout described.

I don't doubt that you're telling the truth about your own personal experience, but you can't ignore the data gathered by a large membership at CleanMPG for example where no one has had any issues caused from inflating tires to max sidewall or even a little above and the thing is NO ONE paid for this testing. This testing is all done by normal people like you and I and Bailout who have nothing to gain by lying about results. They're only trying to help people be less wasteful of resources and save money with safe practices which are only questioned by the industries which directly benefit from you wasting these same resources.

It's great to have a strong opinion on things, but you can't close the door to so many other peoples experiences or "testing". I'm glad I didn't. I've learned a great deal from Bailout and others like him in the different online communities. To the point where the performance I am getting out of our car is not believed by people who are still pre-believers like I once was.:biggrin:

Well Im happy with getting 44 mpg with no hypermilling techs!

[puetato89]

well i put 100 psi into my 205/40/17's... it hasn't popped yet...(just so you know this was a joke)

[JetfireK]

When the salesman delivered my Yaris to my home he showed me these Green Tire "Caps"(where you put air in the tire ) He said the tires had nitrogen in them! That they would hold the pressure better than air? So far, So good! And I think someone special ordered this car and then rejected it...Thank goodness for unanswered prayers.

I had ordered a "sport" 3 door liftback from a salesman in New Orleans! I waited three months for my Sport Yaris to come in. THEN I LEARNED....Japan does not ship the Sport to America (they could now? but not then-three months ago).

I then ordered my Yaris from Slidell LA and told he salesman to find me the closest car to the Sport; to which he did.
It came with all the airbags/cd player/mp3 ready/Automatic/tinted windows/15" wheels and sporty rims.
I added the GPS/Backup Camera/Viper Alarm/Scan Guage/ lots of trim and if I could find out how to make the GARAGE I once had no this site I would take pictures...I love the color..Meteorite Matellic..I sold my new Lexus to buy this darling car...and the only thing I miss is the cornering lights my Lexus had...Nothing else....

If you know how I can make my Yaris Garage again I sure would appeciate your telling me..

[voodoo22]

Well Im happy with getting 44 mpg with no hypermilling techs!

Whatever that means.:iono:

I'm always trying to do my best to not waste and cannot understand why someone would brag about underachieving well. I highly doubt you can achieve over 44 mpg on tanks without engaging in common sense, disciplined driving which "others" would label as "hypermiling".

[Sodium Duck]

Well Im happy with getting 44 mpg with no hypermilling techs!

Ummm, yea, please tell me what you do -- I want to do it, too!

I, "hypermile," and I am only getting a paltry 36MPG. Did you rub cheetah blood on your engine block while doing the hokey pokey or soemthing?

[gid]

Ummm, yea, please tell me what you do -- I want to do it, too!

I, "hypermile," and I am only getting a paltry 36MPG. Did you rub cheetah blood on your engine block while doing the hokey pokey or soemthing? :laughabove:

[Spades]

generally i run 5-10 psi under max depending on the tire...keep in mind, the more the pressure the less the contact patch of the tire. while that smaller contact patch means less resistance and therefore better milage, it also hurts your traction if you inflate too far...and thats not so good.

just watch your shift points and keep your foot out of it, these cars can get 40+ mpg in stock form with ease if you take it easy.

[b_hickman11]

Whatever that means.:iono:

I'm always trying to do my best to not waste and cannot understand why someone would brag about underachieving well. I highly doubt you can achieve over 44 mpg on tanks without engaging in common sense, disciplined driving which "others" would label as "hypermiling".


So putting 50 psi in a tire is "disciplined driving?"

[b_hickman11]

Ummm, yea, please tell me what you do -- I want to do it, too!

I, "hypermile," and I am only getting a paltry 36MPG. Did you rub cheetah blood on your engine block while doing the hokey pokey or soemthing?

I set the cruise on 70, with AC on(it's 80 degress with 100% humidity today in TX and its December) run the cheapest gas I can find, I don't idle to warm up, etc. I do have a K&N drop-in in both of my Yaris's. I have a 40 mile commute to work that is very hilly and has a lot of curves......44 mpg!

[gid]

BILL , you can't win . I've tried and it gets us and others more rild up . We too keep tires at 34 p.s.i. ( <or> lb. ) and get an overall average of 38 m.p.g.. If they want to speed up earlier wear on their suspensions and put themselves / others at risk that's their decision . Yeh can lead a horse to water , but yeh can't make 'em drink . NEYYYYY :biggrin:.

[1stToyota]

Perhaps your first set of tires were not steel belted? Many truck tires are not, or are not fully belted. The ones that came on my friend's 2004 Tacoma were not fully steel belted, nor were the ones that came on my coworker's 2008 Tacoma.

Additionally, I would be wary of trusting anything undocumented from a dealership, and only about half of what is actually documented. They are in the business of making money and will say anything to that end. They simply DO NOT want you to get any kind of longevity out of your tires, especially if they offer a tire service.

60 psi ...cool, bet your contact footprint for your tires are about 1/4" x 5"

Yeah, I'd feel reeeeeeeeeal safe with that much of nothing making contact with the road.

On a side note...most tire machines say not to seat the bead of any tire at a pressure exceeding 40 psi...but had an extra 20 psi and get out on the freeway... :thumbdown:

[voodoo22]

So putting 50 psi in a tire is "disciplined driving?"

I'm sorry I wasted your time by trying to tell you about what I've learned from others; and actually implemented into my daily practices; in some great online communities where people are open minded to learning from others. Communities where people can learn about other ways of doing things which might prove our previous behaviors to be wrong and misinformed.

As I've slowly learned from some real trend setters like Bailout I've been able to increase my MPG from just over 40 MPG to consistently over 50 mpg on nearly every tank with our AT Yaris and enjoy saving money/resources by reducing wear and tear on our vehicle. I also feel much less stress from driving in a very hostile, extremely busy highway environment as my safety level has increased dramatically as well.

It's not like you're getting bad gas mileage, but I'm sure you could reduce the amount of money you spend on gas and maintenance on your vehicle if you ever put some of the ideas put forward by people like Bailout and members at cleanmpg to the test in your own daily life.

[1stToyota]

I'm sorry I wasted your time by trying to tell you about what I've learned from others; and actually implemented into my daily practices; in some great online communities where people are open minded to learning from others. Communities where people can learn about other ways of doing things which might prove our previous behaviors to be wrong and misinformed.

As I've slowly learned from some real trend setters like Bailout I've been able to increase my MPG from just over 40 MPG to consistently over 50 mpg on nearly every tank with our AT Yaris and enjoy saving money/resources by reducing wear and tear on our vehicle. I also feel much less stress from driving in a very hostile, extremely busy highway environment as my safety level has increased dramatically as well.

It's not like you're getting bad gas mileage, but I'm sure you could reduce the amount of money you spend on gas and maintenance on your vehicle if you ever put some of the ideas put forward by people like Bailout and members at cleanmpg to the test in your own daily life.

Who to believe...the new trend setters...or the tire tech and Pat Goss (Goss' Garage) in a recent airing of Motorweek???

Sorry, I'll stick with Goss, and the recent Chrysler TSB that warned about over-inflated tires.

Less contact with the road might be good for gas mileage, but tires are made to be inflated properly, for handling and braking reasons; safety being more important than maximum fuel economy.

[Sodium Duck]

THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE -- RIGHT ANSWER! YOU MUST ALL FIGHT TO YOUR DEATHS!

Seriously though, why does everyone need to be so right on this? The OP just wanted to know what pressures you run your tires at, not your life story.

Me, I keep 'em at 37psi. Maybe will go up to 40 in the future.

[b_hickman11]

I'm sorry I wasted your time by trying to tell you about what I've learned from others; and actually implemented into my daily practices; in some great online communities where people are open minded to learning from others. Communities where people can learn about other ways of doing things which might prove our previous behaviors to be wrong and misinformed.

As I've slowly learned from some real trend setters like Bailout I've been able to increase my MPG from just over 40 MPG to consistently over 50 mpg on nearly every tank with our AT Yaris and enjoy saving money/resources by reducing wear and tear on our vehicle. I also feel much less stress from driving in a very hostile, extremely busy highway environment as my safety level has increased dramatically as well.

It's not like you're getting bad gas mileage, but I'm sure you could reduce the amount of money you spend on gas and maintenance on your vehicle if you ever put some of the ideas put forward by people like Bailout and members at cleanmpg to the test in your own daily life.


Im just stating what I have seen in real life on my own car. You are the one attacking my results saying that they are impossible. BTW, who pays for this Cleanmpg thingy?

[1stToyota]

THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE -- RIGHT ANSWER! YOU MUST ALL FIGHT TO YOUR DEATHS!

Seriously though, why does everyone need to be so right on this? The OP just wanted to know what pressures you run your tires at, not your life story.

Me, I keep 'em at 37psi. Maybe will go up to 40 in the future.


I'll try to be right on everything: Toyota says 32psi, I'll put 32psi in the tires. :wink:

They also say 5w-30, so I use 5w-30, etc...

I might start thinking like a rebel next year and switch to 20w-50 (7qts), going down to 11psi, using green coolant, R-12 freon, bias ply tires, ATF in my 5-speed, torque my lugnuts to 200 ft/lbs, do OCI every 20k miles...or not...Toyota was right on all the other specs, don't know why they'd put a tire information label on the car that had inaccurate info on it; they didn't. OP, Toyota says 32psi...believe Toyota, or believe people that decide to nearly double that number :eyebulge:

[yarswiss]

Had them at 45 psi for about 6 months, and have now had them at 50psi for the last 4 months. No problems to report, and while I haven't noticed a significant increase in fuel efficiency, my rolling distances have increased when not using gas.

I have actually hit a few curbs and ruts that blew out a set of tires I had before at 32psi, and they didn't show any damage when I hit the same curbs with my current 50psi tires.

[nemelek]

I have been involved in 2 personal injuries lawsuits in my life. One has the plaintive and the other has the defendant. From my experience, I certainly wouldn’t put anything past lawyers or insurance companies. Running tires over or under inflated is a persons personal decision, that I respect. However, if I was way out of Toyota guidelines I would not post my PSI on the internet. It could be a decision that would bite me in the ass at a later time. The same goes for oil viscosity.

[1stToyota]

I have been involved in 2 personal injuries lawsuits in my life. One has the plaintive and the other has the defendant. From my experience, I certainly wouldn’t put anything past lawyers or insurance companies. Running tires over or under inflated is a persons personal decision, that I respect. However, if I was way out of Toyota guidelines I would not post my PSI on the internet. It could be a decision that would bite me in the ass at a later time. The same goes for oil viscosity.

The way I look at it, if running nearly double the psi in my tires was the new super-magic way to see increased fuel economy, every single car company would have jumped on that free bandwagon years ago. They haven't because they want their customers to have a balance of handling, braking and fuel economy, not tilt the scales totally in favor of a 20% increase of fuel economy for their products.

[1stToyota]

Had them at 45 psi for about 6 months, and have now had them at 50psi for the last 4 months. No problems to report, and while I haven't noticed a significant increase in fuel efficiency, my rolling distances have increased when not using gas.

I have actually hit a few curbs and ruts that blew out a set of tires I had before at 32psi, and they didn't show any damage when I hit the same curbs with my current 50psi tires.

Try a panic stop at 70mph, one with 50 or 60psi in the tires, one with 32psi...see if the over-inflated tires do as well in the braking test as they did in the rut test.

[b_hickman11]

Did any of these "test" have a deer involved? I almost hit 3 different deer this week...one of which I had to massively slam on the brakes to avoid hitting it. I would assume with double the air pressure(and less road contact) I might would have had a different outcome. Like maybe some back strap for Christmas dinner.

[BailOut]

Panic stops do not happen to those that pay attention on the road and plan ahead. This holds true even if your fellow drivers fail to do so. On the few occasions that I have needed to brake any harder than usual I experienced no difficulty whatsoever at 60 PSI.

As for deer, yes, I run into them on the roads here, too. Also coyotes, quail, rabbits and the occasional black bear. I have never had difficulty avoiding them.


All,

There simply is no room in fuel economy discussions for alarmism or "doomism". Please stop with the venom and rhetoric or I will have this thread locked.

[1stToyota]

Panic stops do not happen to those that pay attention on the road and plan ahead. This holds true even if your fellow drivers fail to do so. On the few occasions that I have needed to brake any harder than usual I experienced no difficulty whatsoever at 60 PSI.

As for deer, yes, I run into them on the roads here, too. Also coyotes, quail, rabbits and the occasional black bear. I have never had difficulty avoiding them.


All,

There simply is no room in fuel economy discussions for alarmism or "doomism". Please stop with the venom and rhetoric or I will have this thread locked.

Triple what Toyota states for psi, you have all the built-in excuses required. Hope a semi never locks his brakes, smoking all of his trailer tires, like what happened to me last sat.

It's winter now. People drives like idiots in a hurry. Road conditions won't be that great in many areas due to the weather and road treatment (lots of sand on the ground here)

Safety is more important than fuel economy, especially in a small car that already gets 40 mpg anyway :rolleyes:

Call up the auto makers with the revolutionary idea of running double the psi, tell them the easy way to increase the fuel economy numbers by 20% ...I'll expect them to slap their foreheads and turn their tires into 60psi basketballs soon as they hang up the phone...NOT! :laugh:

[gid]

What ? PLAN AHEAD ! There's no planning for a deer that decides to bolt out in front or into the side of your vehicle from over an embankment or from thick brush / wooded area . This has to be the dumbest ( :bonk: ) thing stated on this topic so far . :rolleyes: :laughabove:

[voodoo22]

What ? PLAN AHEAD ! There's no planning for a deer that decides to bolt out in front or into the side of your vehicle from over an embankment or from thick brush / wooded area . This has to be the dumbest ( :bonk: ) thing stated on this topic so far . :rolleyes: :laughabove:

The real problem here is the deer. If they had more psi in their hooves, they would have better control at full stride and thus be able to avoid traffic much easier.

[YarisSedan]

What ? PLAN AHEAD ! There's no planning for a deer that decides to bolt out in front or into the side of your vehicle from over an embankment or from thick brush / wooded area . This has to be the dumbest ( :bonk: ) thing stated on this topic so far . :rolleyes: :laughabove:

So your saying you dont have the ability to forsee 5 seconds into the future to make planned decisions accordingly. And I thought i was the only one.

[BailOut]

What ? PLAN AHEAD ! There's no planning for a deer that decides to bolt out in front or into the side of your vehicle from over an embankment or from thick brush / wooded area . This has to be the dumbest ( :bonk: ) thing stated on this topic so far . :rolleyes: :laughabove:

It's called driving slower when you are in a known trouble area. I am surprised that you were not smart enough to figure that out for yourself.

[1stToyota]

It's called driving slower when you are in a known trouble area. I am surprised that you were not smart enough to figure that out for yourself.

I hope you're never involved in an accident, no matter who's at fault, but if you are I hope you're smart enough (and brave enough) to tell the officer and the adjuster that you run double the psi that Toyota recommends. But what am I thinking, you've already convinced your insurance agent to run double psi to save fuel, like you're doing, yes? :wink:

[gid]

It's called driving slower when you are in a known trouble area. I am surprised that you were not smart enough to figure that out for yourself. you take the cake . :rolleyes:

[YarisSedan]

you take the cake . :rolleyes:

Yeah. Thats why i just stopped responding to his post and future posts. Some people will belive they are right no matter what evidence you bring up to prove they are wrong. And they will try to find a flaw in everything you say to them or use as evidence in order to keep saying they are right. Its just a waste of time those type of poeple can not be reasoned with.

[YarisSedan]

Here are some reputible, reliable sources of information that will tell you all you would ever want and need to know about tires and tire pressure to put this post to rest. If the quotes interest you click on the link to read the complete articles

http://www.betiresmart.ca/resources/faqs.asp?loc1=resources&loc2=faqs#faq03
"Is over-inflation harmful?
Yes. One of the biggest tire maintenance-related myths is that over-inflation is not a problem. Often, even people who understand that under-inflation is a problem are unaware of the harmful effects of over-inflation.

An over-inflated tire rides on just the centre portion of the tread. The smaller contact area means reduced grip on the road leading to a harsh ride, handling issues (such as steering and stopping problems) and increased wear on tires and suspension components.

What should I do if my tires are over-inflated?
If you find that your tires are over-inflated, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the valve, then re-measure the pressure. Never reduce pressure when tires are hot. Wait until they are cold, meaning that your vehicle has been stationary for at least 3 hours or has not been driven more than 2 km."

http://www.popularmechanics.com/blogs/automotive_news/4199963.html

"Debunking a Mileage Myth: Can You Really "Pump Up" Your Fuel ..."

http://www.tirestamp.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=139&Itemid=177

"Question: Is my tread wear effected by overinflation?

Answer: Overinflation is almost as bad as underinflation. Overinflation is any pressure that exceeds the pressure needed to carry the load by 10% or more. Just as with underinflation, overinflation changes the footprint too. The contact patch actually becomes shorter and narrower. This results in the shoulders of the tire scuffing along while only the center of the tire makes full contact with the road which leads to irregular wear patterns and lost tread mileage. Center rib wear, flaking, chunking, erratic depression wear are commonly observed conditions in addition to overall rapid tread wear. A tire that is overinflated by 20% will lose 10% of its tread mileage. In addition, traction is negatively impacted since the contact patch is much smaller than is optimal. The ride is harsher since the sidewall is much stiffer and handling is different since the footprint has changed. Vehicle suspension and steering system components are also affected by the harsher ride and handling due to over inflation. Overinflated tires are also prone to cuts and snags, impact breaks, and sidewall and crown penetrations affect a vehicle’s handling. "

[gid]

we've had deer dart out from between homes within city limits during daylight hours . So you can't always be prepared MR.PERFECTO . The deer are running out of habitat and with the warmer climate of recent years there's been a population explotion . Therefore they're more active in the day looking for food . MAYBE YOU SHOULD EXPLAIN THAT TO THE DEER HERE AND EVERYWHERE . :biggrin:

[gid]

Y.S. , he sent me a private message telling me to remove a post I made in one of his THREADS :rolleyes: . He wants all the glory :bow: . To think these are the people who are MODERATORS and use it as leverage and attack other members with insults :thumbdown: . Reminds of a certain ADMINISTARTION for the past 8 years :wink: . :biggrin:

[1stToyota]

If over-inflation wasn't ONLY about increased fuel economy, we'd be seeing actual real world test results with handling, braking, etc..., comparing the results of tires that have normal pressure with those with double pressure, not just fuel economy increases, or do the 60p.s.i.ers and the websites they go to consider *safe* being a tire that didn't blow out? I'd like to see some real test results of two cars being track test against each other. I'm betting the car with over-inflated will come in 2nd in every catagory except fuel economy.

[YarisSedan]

If over-inflation wasn't ONLY about increased fuel economy, we'd be seeing actual real world test results with handling, braking, etc..., comparing the results of tires that have normal pressure with those with double pressure, not just fuel economy increases, or do the 60p.s.i.ers and the websites they go to consider *safe* being a tire that didn't blow out? I'd like to see some real test results of two cars being track test against each other. I'm betting the car with over-inflated will come in 2nd in every catagory except fuel economy.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/blogs/automotive_news/4199963.html

[Pitt Yaris]

What ? PLAN AHEAD ! There's no planning for a deer that decides to bolt out in front or into the side of your vehicle from over an embankment or from thick brush / wooded area . This has to be the dumbest ( :bonk: ) thing stated on this topic so far . :rolleyes: :laughabove:

I agree with these comments 100%. Can't believe some people's logic. I guess some posters are one with nature....:clap:

[b_hickman11]

Panic stops do not happen to those that pay attention on the road and plan ahead. This holds true even if your fellow drivers fail to do so. On the few occasions that I have needed to brake any harder than usual I experienced no difficulty whatsoever at 60 PSI.

As for deer, yes, I run into them on the roads here, too. Also coyotes, quail, rabbits and the occasional black bear. I have never had difficulty avoiding them.


All,

There simply is no room in fuel economy discussions for alarmism or "doomism". Please stop with the venom and rhetoric or I will have this thread locked.

Aww am I upsetting the baby since his views are the same as mine....awww

[b_hickman11]

Actually I have a true story about a deer...kind off topic but it shows how deer are in my area. I used to work in a grocery store in high school and I was sacking some groceries on the front end one day. All of a sudden a lady comes runnning in the door screaming bloody murder. She runs towards the back of the store. Well right behind her was a 2 pt buck running into the store also. It ran over to the produce and 2 customers(2 huge guys) tackled it and tied it up. We sold deer corn at the store and kept the bags out on the sidewalk. 2 deer smelt it and came up there to eat it. Then they got spooked and 1 took off back towards the woods. The other one ran towards the door and well you know the rest of the story.

[MadMax]

I don't know why anyone would bother arguing with these "hypermilers," the bottom line is that they are right and the rest of the world is wrong!

I really wonder why these people don't drive a Prius? If they are so dedicated to getting the maximum efficiency out of every drop of gas, then they should select the proper equipment to do so. A Prius with 60+ PSI in it tires and employing those "hypermiler" techniques could get about a bazillion gallons to the mile!

And to my friend in Nacadoches, we both know the dangers of deer in Texas. Maybe we are too stupid not to "plan ahead," or maybe the deer just aren't following the rules! I will ask the next time I see one...

Cheers! M2

[33OH]

I actually used to run 50 psi in my tires just for MPG reasons. And then I hit a deer because I couldn't stop fast enough. Slammed on the brakes and the car just skidded on the road, hardly gripping at all.

Bottom line? I run 32 psi now, what Toyota recommends. Only took $5,000 and the safety of me and my passenger to figure it out.

[Doug007]

40 psi car feels good and when pushed hard I do not see any wear on the sidewalls.

Agreed - for me 40 psi works well for my driving style and the roads I regularly traverse. My overall mpg is 41 so good fuel economy is present as well.

[KCALB SIRAY]

Agreed - for me 40 psi works well for my driving style and the roads I regularly traverse. My overall mpg is 41 so good fuel economy is present as well.

I run 40 as well, and average 42 on the highway. Not even a HM'r either

[MadMax]

ryank, what the hell, didn't you PLAN AHEAD?!?

But I am going to see for myself. I just aired up my tires to 40 PSI (my tire pressure sensor light just went off this morning, so I had to check the pressure anyway) and we'll see how it goes. I sure hope I don't find out the hard way that this is a bad decision...

By the way, what is the PSI level that kicks off the air pressure sensor light? All my tires, sans one, were at 32 PSI; and the one that was a bit lower was only 28 PSI. Seems kinda high for the sensors to kick off...

Cheers! M2

[nemelek]

ON my wifes CR-V it kicked in at 26 psi. Kind of a good thing. I found a screw in the tire. Without the sensor she might have driven the car until the tire was completely flat.

[YarisSedan]

I dont think it sets the light based on a specific tire pressure but it compares all 4 pressures and when it senses one tire is a amount lower than the rest is when it sets the light.

[b_hickman11]

I dont think it sets the light based on a specific tire pressure but it compares all 4 pressures and when it senses one tire is a amount lower than the rest is when it sets the light.

Not true. If it was, your tires could ALL be at 15 psi and the sensor wouldnt go off?!?

[33OH]

ryank, what the hell, didn't you PLAN AHEAD?!?


Thanks for the laugh :laugh:

But in all seriousness, if anyone thinks they can avoid an "accident", they're called that for a reason.

[MadMax]

Glad you recognized that as humor, I am sure some people might take it literally! I'm also glad you weren't hurt in that accident, it could have been much worse but I am sure the damage to your beloved Yaris was enough! It would have been for me!

Well, I drove to work with my tires at 40 PSI and I will admit that although it was noticeable, it wasn't that bad. The bumps are a little harsher, but they were already a bit rough with my lower-profile tires. And I don't know if I am getting any better gas mileage going from 32 PSI in my tires to 40; but I keep tab of that info at fill-ups so I will let everyone know my results. I am not going to do anything else different, so I will see how much better the increased tire pressure works.

Stay tuned!

Cheers! M2

[33OH]

From my personal experience, going from 50psi to 32psi, I lost about 2-3 MPG (highway), but the ride is sooo much smoother and the handling (especially in the rain/snow) is 10x better.

[gid]

From my personal experience, going from 50psi to 32psi, I lost about 2-3 MPG (highway), but the ride is sooo much smoother and the handling (especially in the rain/snow) is 10x better. same here with lower p.s.i. , try to keep them hovering around 34 . If you notice harsher ride , car is telling you :wink: of the abuse on your suspension as well . Tie rod ends , etc.. Which could / would accelerate the wear on those . Say if part of suspension became damaged under warranty and service center noticed the high tire pressure , they may not honor it . One or few extra m.p.g. not worth it to me .

[smacky]

Wow, I knew a thread about tire pressure wouldn't go well but I'm still surprised. Things have gone downhill since the hack.

[SeaYa]

If over-inflation wasn't ONLY about increased fuel economy, we'd be seeing actual real world test results with handling, braking, etc..., comparing the results of tires that have normal pressure with those with double pressure, not just fuel economy increases, or do the 60p.s.i.ers and the websites they go to consider *safe* being a tire that didn't blow out? I'd like to see some real test results of two cars being track test against each other. I'm betting the car with over-inflated will come in 2nd in every catagory except fuel economy.

Thank you! I tried something like this! Snowy parking lot (1-2 inches) and brought my pump. Did 30 psi and 45 psi two times each on a 20 mph turn in the middle of the lot. Here's what happened: 30psi, better traction, worse handling. I slid about 7 feet from my intended line of travel with the car pointed to the outside of the turn. At 45 psi, I had worse traction, but better handling. I slid nearly 12 feet from the intended line of travel, but the car was pointing nearly straight on the way I wanted to go. Did some reading and thinking and maybe this is why: The Yaris is a very light FF, and with an empty trunk, any increases in tire pressure will have a more dramatic effect on the rear tires, eg, smaller contact patch. Since there is already so little weight back there, the rear tires slip to an even greater degree than the front when at 45 psi, hence, the back sliding around more cuts down on the under steer, and you get the feel of better handling. Traction though, another story, I slid 5 extra feet off the 'road', which in straight line braking, could mean running into the hazard you were "looking ahead for and planning for, but still hit because I sacrificed my vehicles engineered performance for an extra 2 MPG"..and by the way, to all the 60psi people...I can't find your actual MPG savings on this post.

To the OP: I've done 35psi (42/44mpg) and 40psi (42/ 47mpg).

Seems to me like the hypermilers are trying to beat the EPA rating by as much as possible for bragging rights. Otherwise, why stop at 60? Why not do 100psi? If your answer is because the tire will burst, then you admit to already pushing the engineered limits of your tire. Otherwise, if traction isn't important to you, why not buy 3 extra spares and run them at 80psi? They're only rated for 60psi, but you don't seem to have a problem with doubling manufacturer recomendations. Let me know how that works out for you.

[otterhere]

By the way, what is the PSI level that kicks off the air pressure sensor light?


Hmmm; wonder why mine didn't go off? All four tires were at the same LOW level (26) when I finally checked them; with it increased to 38 -- didn't quite go to 40 -- I'm expecting better mileage the next time I check the MPGs...

[SilverGlow]

Here are some reputible, reliable sources of information that will tell you all you would ever want and need to know about tires and tire pressure to put this post to rest. If the quotes interest you click on the link to read the complete articles

http://www.betiresmart.ca/resources/faqs.asp?loc1=resources&loc2=faqs#faq03
"Is over-inflation harmful?
Yes. One of the biggest tire maintenance-related myths is that over-inflation is not a problem. Often, even people who understand that under-inflation is a problem are unaware of the harmful effects of over-inflation.

An over-inflated tire rides on just the centre portion of the tread. The smaller contact area means reduced grip on the road leading to a harsh ride, handling issues (such as steering and stopping problems) and increased wear on tires and suspension components.

What should I do if my tires are over-inflated?
If you find that your tires are over-inflated, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the valve, then re-measure the pressure. Never reduce pressure when tires are hot. Wait until they are cold, meaning that your vehicle has been stationary for at least 3 hours or has not been driven more than 2 km."

http://www.popularmechanics.com/blogs/automotive_news/4199963.html

"Debunking a Mileage Myth: Can You Really "Pump Up" Your Fuel ..."

http://www.tirestamp.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=139&Itemid=177

"Question: Is my tread wear effected by overinflation?

Answer: Overinflation is almost as bad as underinflation. Overinflation is any pressure that exceeds the pressure needed to carry the load by 10% or more. Just as with underinflation, overinflation changes the footprint too. The contact patch actually becomes shorter and narrower. This results in the shoulders of the tire scuffing along while only the center of the tire makes full contact with the road which leads to irregular wear patterns and lost tread mileage. Center rib wear, flaking, chunking, erratic depression wear are commonly observed conditions in addition to overall rapid tread wear. A tire that is overinflated by 20% will lose 10% of its tread mileage. In addition, traction is negatively impacted since the contact patch is much smaller than is optimal. The ride is harsher since the sidewall is much stiffer and handling is different since the footprint has changed. Vehicle suspension and steering system components are also affected by the harsher ride and handling due to over inflation. Overinflated tires are also prone to cuts and snags, impact breaks, and sidewall and crown penetrations affect a vehicle’s handling. "

Those links you reference are mostly bool sheet.

And in fact, I have my tires all pumped up at 45 PSI, and:

(1) My milage is about 12% higher.

(2) My tires are wearing EVENLY across the thread. Center of tire shows EXACTLY THE SAME as the shoulders of all tires.

(3) My tires are about 80% worn, and after 52,000 miles. At that rate I should get at least 65,000 before I the wear indicators show.

(4) The degration in handling and grip is INSIGNIFICANT.

So you see, you can't always believe everything you read on those "expert" sites.

[1stToyota]

Those links you reference are mostly bool sheet.

And in fact, I have my tires all pumped up at 45 PSI, and:

(1) My milage is about 12% higher.

(2) My tires are wearing EVENLY across the thread. Center of tire shows EXACTLY THE SAME as the shoulders of all tires.

(3) My tires are about 80% worn, and after 52,000 miles. At that rate I should get at least 65,000 before I the wear indicators show.

(4) The degration in handling and grip is INSIGNIFICANT.

So you see, you can't always believe everything you read on those "expert" sites.

12% higher? That seems like a pretty good number for you...I think that's about what the Lucas f.i. cleaner did for you.

And if your tires are 80% worn, grip and handling are already WAY down from what it was when your tires had 50+% tread left on them. Most tire *experts* believe in the Washington's head rule now instead of the old Lincoln's head rule. Stopping distance for the latter can be up to twice the distance. :thumbdown:

[1stToyota]

Thank you! I tried something like this! Snowy parking lot (1-2 inches) and brought my pump. Did 30 psi and 45 psi two times each on a 20 mph turn in the middle of the lot. Here's what happened: 30psi, better traction, worse handling. I slid about 7 feet from my intended line of travel with the car pointed to the outside of the turn. At 45 psi, I had worse traction, but better handling. I slid nearly 12 feet from the intended line of travel, but the car was pointing nearly straight on the way I wanted to go. Did some reading and thinking and maybe this is why: The Yaris is a very light FR, and with an empty trunk, any increases in tire pressure will have a more dramatic effect on the rear tires, eg, smaller contact patch. Since there is already so little weight back there, the rear tires slip to an even greater degree than the front when at 45 psi, hence, the back sliding around more cuts down on the under steer, and you get the feel of better handling. Traction though, another story, I slid 5 extra feet off the 'road', which in straight line braking, could mean running into the hazard you were "looking ahead for and planning for, but still hit because I sacrificed my vehicles engineered performance for an extra 2 MPG"..and by the way, to all the 60psi people...I can't find your actual MPG savings on this post.

To the OP: I've done 35psi (42/44mpg) and 40psi (42/ 47mpg).

Seems to me like the hypermilers are trying to beat the EPA rating by as much as possible for bragging rights. Otherwise, why stop at 60? Why not do 100psi? If your answer is because the tire will burst, then you admit to already pushing the engineered limits of your tire. Otherwise, if traction isn't important to you, why not buy 3 extra spares and run them at 80psi? They're only rated for 60psi, but you don't seem to have a problem with doubling manufacturer recomendations. Let me know how that works out for you.

Good rule of thumb for them is to just throw their gauges away and air the tires up until they resemble motorcycle tires...bet their cars will corner better with a little bit of body-english.:rolleyes:

[dg4rez]

I wonder if they could make tires out of used condoms.....

some people dont like riding on rims. :laughabove: