Newbie with Q's, reliable WHP

[mickymouse]

Hi guys,

am reading already a couple of days in this Forum, so far I have not yet a complete picture of performance modifications on the Yaris.

Here is the deal, I am waiting on my new Yaris 1.6 RS manual transmission. I live in China, thus I am not sure if we share the same engine. It is (yet) the 1.6 l 16V engine, generating 118hp@6000RPM and 150Nm@4400RPM.

Here is what I want (engine):
a rev happy engine with an aggressive sound.
Since I drive my cars hard (after apropriate warm up) I definately want RELIABLE performance increase. I do not want to open the engine with the exception of changing the cams.
I would really like to have a 15% - 20% power increase vs. stock.
Stock would be about what... 90-93WHP? So something like 105-110WHP is my target.
No FI, only all motor.
I am willing to sacrifice some low end tourqe for high rev power. Similar to smooth power development up to 3500-4000RPM.. picking up at 4500RPM and reving quickly towards rev limiter or close to 6800RPM.

I am a "do it yourselfer". Modded a few cars in the past.
In this case I would like to purchase at one location a package deal, something that is known to work.
What I am willing to do is:
CAI, UDP, cams + cam gears, bigger MAF, header, complete exhaust, possibly modified ECU.

Here is what I want from the suspension point of view:
dropping the car without bottoming out (maybe 1 1/2 to 2 inches?????), adding spacers to the wheels so they will be flush with the fenders, nicer rims and maybe 185 tires.
So, a good coil over would do the trick that I can have a limited smooth ride on the straight.. and a nice cornering speed? I defiantely want handling and corerning spped, since the Yaris is not a high speed car, would like to have a nimble handling car. Thus, changing the sway bars is a must.


My question to you guys:
a) my expectations on the reliable engine power, is that reasonable?
b) my expectations on the amount of increas, is that reasonable?

:headbang:
any feedback is greatly appreciated, thanks a lot to you all
:drinking:
ho ho ho
happy christmas

[ztrack157]

Since its a 1.6 your 110 whp is already there intake and full exhaust and you'll be set. If NST ever makes pulleys for it the yo would be golden. TRD Sway bar and Tanabe strut bar with tein or silk road coilovers will meet yours needs. Other than that there is cosmetics.

[mickymouse]

Oi ztrack157,

thanks for your reply.
So really.... is the stock engine so chocked that those intake-exhaust will do the trick?
Cool.
did not expect it to be so easy!
So, what about the rev limiter. As far as I know, most modern cars - engines do an agressive mapping towards the upper RPM band to reduce power towards the rev limiter.
This makes driving in the elevated RPM range simply no fun.
Does the Yaris engine share this behaviour?
If so, what to do?

[Zefoxe]

you can also look into the throttle body from one of the 1.8l toyota engines, from what I've read you guys can use the 1zz or 2zr although the 1zz will be easier to get a hold of.

[ztrack157]

There is a rev limiter. But it shouldn't be a problem.

[ztrack157]

and yes there is a throttle body upgrade you can use for some more umph in the upper rpm range.

[1nz]

intake. exhaust and engine management like camcon or emanage ultimate

[mickymouse]

thanks for all the replies so far.

I looked through the pictures of the dynos. However did not find any before - after from one person with the bold-ons. Just when FI.
So, when you talk about xxWHP, is there any one with a documented performance history? I know this one guy who pulls 120whp from Arizona, but I did not find information on the engine?

@ztrack157
thanks.
When you say that there is a rev limiter but it is no problem, what do you mean by that?
Does it mean the Yaris revs freely into the limiter without having a smooth cut off?
Every modern car I have driven in the last 2 years show a similar behavoir... too much electronic influence and a smooth power reduction starting about 800-500RPM before redline.... and the revs are kept about in the middle of the redline.
Older cars reved into the limiter quite hard - harsh (this is what I am looking for).
However I have not had a chance to kick the Yaris, did only a short test drive on the parking lot (here in China they think that is enough)

you wrote that there is a throttle body upgrade. Are you refering to the same one as Zefoxe, swapping the stock 1.6 with a stock 1.8? Or are there any aftermarket ones available?

@1nz
thanks
camcon and emanage ultimate
Do those units replace the ECU, or is this like a drop in emulator with real time adjustment capability?

Thanks. Sorry for all these questions. But since I am an egnineer I like to educate myself before I do things. And I want to do them right. Thus I prefer a one time install, best if the individual components would be proven to work together. I am hard pressed however to find reliable and informative sources. Heck I would even import a complete system from the US or Japan (does not know where to find it). The only thing I found was some FI and CAI, Header... but all those things seem to be thrown together without a close attention to the details....?

Well, anyhow, thanks
Mike

[thebarber]

most people on here use the 1.5L 1nzfe since thats the only engine available in north america.....no 1.6L

with a lot of naturally aspirated engine setups, you can get just about stock crank HP at the wheels with intake, header, and catback exhaust....i shouldnt think itd be too much different w/ the 1.6L (1.5's seem to run about 105whp with i/h/e)

[1nz]

@1nz
thanks
camcon and emanage ultimate
Do those units replace the ECU, or is this like a drop in emulator with real time adjustment capability?

Mike

These are piggyback it doesnt replace the ECU and it does provide real time adjustability, for more control emanage,unichip, microtech, linkecu, ecutech hks f con is good but only hks power writer can tune them and its more expensive, there are more piggybacks does anyone here use other than i listed?

I found out the new vios @ aka yaris sedan has a smoother torque and power compared to the old vios but the new vios is heavier

[mickymouse]

@thebarber
thanks, I guessed that much. Enough for me.. otherwise the modding never and and costs more money in the end as a more powerfull car to begin with ;-)
I will be happy with 110-118WHP (118 crank hp stock) and a nimble handling combined with a short shifter.

If I find a decent shop here I will provide a nice documentation with before - during and after :D (unless the after is worse than the before that is)

@1nz
thanks. I will look into it. Would be the last thing to do after all engine mods are finished.

Would i assume correctly that there are no different cams available for the 1.6?
Or should I cross check what this 1.6 actually is? Maybe I am lucky ???

[thebarber]

i just find that after basic bolt-ons the price for HP goes up too much. so spend 1000 or 1500 on i/h/e, springs, rims/tires and drive the car...

[mickymouse]

yes I totally agree.
However, from the prices I saw, the 1000-1500 won't cut it for everything, right?
i/h/e yes... but the suspension by itself would eat about the same amount.. or did I miss something?

[thebarber]

well intake is 100 for weapon R sri.....id lean dc header, 200-ish......go custom catback for maybe 300....springs are 100-200 depending on brand.....rims/tires are 6-700 for 15's

but might be a vastly different story w/ shipping to china, lol

[mickymouse]

Hi thebarber,

thanks for your feedback!

I might have a slight problem though. Are the prices you mentioned of Ebay or regular from online dealers?
Since i am in China I would like to purchase from one dealer the whole thing, plus I really try to get a system that works together. I had some bad experience with my Focus in the past, when I bought good quality parts from random sources... that never seem to work properly when put together (individually they worked fine). Custom catback might be another problem, since it is harder to find good workmanship here. So, shiping will be in the range of 200-250 bucks.

So I will opt for: CAI, UDP, Header and cat back. This I estimated in the range of 700-800
sway bars plus coil overs will run about 900-1200.
Shift kit plus tires (I would like to keep as much stock-look as possible) runs me like 350-400

Install I will do myself, 2-3 dyno runs fod documentation.

Does that sound about right?