The Nitrous Thread

[ChinoCharles]

I'm going to be purchasing the Holdener manifold with nitrous bungs. There are a few problems with this...

[1] I have never owned a tuned car, let alone a car that had nitrous.
[2] The Yaris is my daily driver and has to be for another 24 months.
[3] I've never installed nitrous, nor do I know anything about system maintenance
[4] There is very, very little in the way of documented experiences with nitrous on this platform

Having rattled all of that off, lets make this thread the end-all for those of us looking to put nitrous on a Yaris. :burnrubber:

Correct me if I am wrong... the bungs on the manifold are set up for a wet system, correct? There are three types of systems: dry, wet, and direct port. Dry systems inject through the intake or filter, wet systems in the manifold and direct port systems have ports on the head that inject straight into the cylinders. So, this is a wet system.

Things we will need/want... a remote bottle opener, a purge kit, a switch to turn the system on, a window switch, a button to activate a "shot." Am I missing something? Obviously this isn't all necessary, but we're talking a full system here.

Also, this will require tuning, right? What are our options here? AFAIK the only thing we need to worry about is tuning the A/F ratio with a nitrous system, correct?

I'll have a zillion more questions as time goes by. Lets get the conversation rolling now, though. Knowledge is POWER! :bow:

[Abodame99]

another or bigger fuel pump?

[ChinoCharles]

What I am reading is that usually with wet systems the stock fuel pump will suffice, but again, this is all application specific and I haven't seen anything on these forums about it.

Also, longevity... like I said, I need this engine to last two years. If I blow it before that it wouldn't be the end of the world, but I'd rather not go through the process of buying a car knowing I have to. Can we run a 40 or 50 shot with minimal use safely?

[LtNoogie]

Ask Lazlo. He has a nitrous kit in his car.

[mastaofdisasta]

If i may add my 2 cents of possibely helpful knowledge, bear in mind ive never nitroused a car- I believe it is in ones best interest to keep hose going from the bottle the intake as short as possible and keep it away from heat sources, thus making sure the nitrous does not vaporize too much on its way from the bottle to the target or something to that effect. Now for a question, is it safe to run a tiny dry shot of nitrous thru a CAI if we have the stock manifold? Or is the plasticy shit gonna break due to teh extreme cold of the nitrous?

[ChinoCharles]

There was a member by the name of project y that had a dry kit on his car without problems apparently. I think he was running a 75 shot but don't quote me on that. It was ZEX too, which I have heard nothing but good things about. That is the system I am leaning towards at this point unless someone with more knowledge has a better idea.

[cali yaris]

The bungs are for a wet system, that is correct. Laszlo mounted his bottle between the seats, he can open it right there. Remote opening is only necessary if you really want to use it "on the fly".

I'll be doing NOS too, at least to have it installed for drag racing and to look pretty. I won't need remote opening.

I have two NOS kits, one of which is for sale. Nitrous Express. Had a classified thread up about it before the hack.

[laszlo]

i have had a 75 shot on my car for about a year i have a wet system
wright into the intake i would recomend using 91 and up octane
i have used it twice one time on the street and one on the dino
have checked my compreson after and both times the comperson stayed wereit was before. i have not seen any damege and i daly my car i hope this helped
laszlo

[mastaofdisasta]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D05029NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku

found that interesting, maybe good for those that want to say they have NOS while still being semi safe. Anyone know if you can run that with the stock mani, and go thru ur CAI?

[lilredrocket]

another way that I have seen and heard is pretty safe are the fogger systems. I don't know that much about nitrous but I think it instals right before or right after the TB not sure though will do some searching

[mastaofdisasta]

Why on earth would you subject this motor to NOS? Please buy some port plugs and get the whole NOS idea out of your head....it can serve no good and all you are going to do is fuck up.

now as long as he doesnt pull a "the fast and the furious" and overuse his nitrous to the point where it can mess up his mani im sure hell be ok. And its not like people with Yaris' are going to spray their car everyday. Using nitrous sparingly shouldnt do too much damage, or at least thats my opinion. Plus if youve got an intake made to be sprayed that takes one prob outta the equation

[blacksandiegovitz]

I had two differnt set-up's on car I've own'd in the past and its really simple . For the set-up you'd be running, you'd basically want to get a standard N.o.s "wet" kit. That will have the majority of what you'll need. Then since you'll be running it into each intake runner you'll need extra nozzles , jets, and tubing/tube bender to route it into the runners like shown in the picture . Extras like remote bottle opener and purge aren't really needed imo , you can just un-do the nitrous line from the nitrous selonoid(sp?) and have some one open the bottle to purge the line before you go racing. You'll need one step colder spark plugs , you'll need to run at least 91 octane gas from a good gas station , I'd belive that the stock fuel pump is ok to run , but I'd look into running an inline adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a fuel pressure gauge on it and bump fuel pressure up at least 2-3 psi if running anything more than a 50hp jet(s) . Also invest $100 in an hour of dyno time to tune you air/fuel ratio to the jetting of the nitrous , a lot cheaper than a new motor Lol. Thats just what I got off the top of my head .

[TEHxFALLEN V1.2]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D05029NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku

found that interesting, maybe good for those that want to say they have NOS while still being semi safe. Anyone know if you can run that with the stock mani, and go thru ur CAI?

Is this only for carburetor applications? This is somewhat more practical than a turbo kit lol

[ChinoCharles]

I know next to nothing about nitrous, but all I can tell you is:

DO IT!

Oh, it'll be done!


i have had a 75 shot on my car for about a year i have a wet system
wright into the intake i would recomend using 91 and up octane
i have used it twice one time on the street and one on the dino
have checked my compreson after and both times the comperson stayed wereit was before. i have not seen any damege and i daly my car i hope this helped
laszlo


Thanks laszlo. That does help a bit... so we know that you can run a 75 on a wet system a couple times and your motor probably won't blow up. :laugh: It would really help to find someone who has blown their motor on nitrous. Maybe I need to go do some searching on Scionlife a little later...


Lol. You need this engine to last, but you're gonna nos it?

Go big or go home!

Or get a engine swap.


The plan is to build the motor a la Garm in a couple of years. Is that big enough? :rolleyes: I just want the stock engine to last the full 5 years of the term of my loan, and then it is officially my "toy." Might have to buy a Yaris sedan for a DD. :thumbsup:

(http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D05029NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku)http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D05029NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku)

found that interesting, maybe good for those that want to say they have NOS while still being semi safe. Anyone know if you can run that with the stock mani, and go thru ur CAI? (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D05029NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku)

The sneaky pete! ROFL that thing is awesome. It is no turbo substitute, but it is a good way to get some cheap, low-pro power.

Why on earth would you subject this motor to NOS? Please buy some port plugs and get the whole NOS idea out of your head....it can serve no good and all you are going to do is fuck up.

Oh, now I see the light! You're right! .......... :rolleyes:


now as long as he doesnt pull a "the fast and the furious" and overuse his nitrous to the point where it can mess up his mani im sure hell be ok. And its not like people with Yaris' are going to spray their car everyday. Using nitrous sparingly shouldnt do too much damage, or at least thats my opinion. Plus if youve got an intake made to be sprayed that takes one prob outta the equation


I lost the street racing gene a long time ago. This is for track use only.

I had two differnt set-up's on car I've own'd in the past and its really simple . For the set-up you'd be running, you'd basically want to get a standard N.o.s "wet" kit. That will have the majority of what you'll need. Then since you'll be running it into each intake runner you'll need extra nozzles , jets, and tubing/tube bender to route it into the runners like shown in the picture . Extras like remote bottle opener and purge aren't really needed imo , you can just un-do the nitrous line from the nitrous selonoid(sp?) and have some one open the bottle to purge the line before you go racing. You'll need one step colder spark plugs , you'll need to run at least 91 octane gas from a good gas station , I'd belive that the stock fuel pump is ok to run , but I'd look into running an inline adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a fuel pressure gauge on it and bump fuel pressure up at least 2-3 psi if running anything more than a 50hp jet(s) . Also invest $100 in an hour of dyno time to tune you air/fuel ratio to the jetting of the nitrous , a lot cheaper than a new motor Lol. Thats just what I got off the top of my head .

Nice! I know the little extras arent necessary, but for a few hundred extra, I say why not. The gas thing is no problem... I could count on two hands how many tanks haven't been Shell gas in 45,000 miles. I've been insane about fluids in this car. I'm hoping it pays off in the long run. An extra 10 cents a gallon won't kill me. I'll definitely look into the fuel pressure regulator and some dyno time. I'm thinking 50 sounds like enough for the beginning. I'm sure someone would get a kick out of tuning this thing. :laugh:

[CASTREX]

You don´t really need the 4 nozzle set up!! That is just fancy stuff... It looks cooooool yeah. But not really needed.

Individual port set ups are used for cars running crazy amounts of Nitrous... as the individual port set up helps a better distribution of the juice.


Not even sure how easy it will be to find 4 nozzles that small.

If you plan to runn a 50HP shot you will need 4 nozzles of 12.5 each...

For the small shot this engine will take (I wouldnt go higher than 50hp) the easiest way would be to use only one port.

Nitrous WON´t kill your engine. YOU will...

Just add the standard safety features and don´t go crazy.

You should never spray the car for more than 15-20 sec

[CASTREX]

If Richard ever gets the manifold done for my car I will also be going the route.

:evil::evil:

[ChinoCharles]

That actually reminds me of one of my concerns with this, thanks Castrex! What you said about a 50 shot with 4 nozzles... is this manifold set up for serious injection? Should I just plug this thing until I'm ready to build the motor and get a standalone?

[Return of the Yarii]

Here's my 2 cents, I have used N2O on many of my cars and bikes over the years. Chino you are aware this set up (minus the cost of the manifold) will be in excess of 1k? Sure, you can hack together a kit and a very basic set up for probably 700 or so but you really need to decide if you want to do it. I read you want this for track use, well how many times are you going to make it to the track? If you want N2O for show like the others who have it (one member sprayed 2x and thats it?) then great.....get a basic kit and have at it. Personally Im not the type to boast about having N2O and then not use it.

Now, if you want your motor to survive and be reliable then you will need a bottle warmer, purge kit, aux fuel pump, etc. which adds at least $500 to the cost of a kit and now your at 1000+ not including tuning. Also since you mention track use keep in mind your 1st couple of passess and last couple of passes on the bottle will not be consistent and if your drag racing consistency is the key.

Personally N2O is great if used correctly. Like I said I've sprayed a bone stock Eclipse to my turbo ZX1100 to my single turbo Mustang w/plenty of success. Its all about purchasing a high quality kit and the additional parts to safeguard your engine. And then there is the tuning.....

[Chupacabra]

Now, if you want your motor to survive and be reliable then you will need a bottle warmer, purge kit, aux fuel pump, etc. which adds at least $500 to the cost of a kit and now your at 1000+ not including tuning. Also since you mention track use keep in mind your 1st couple of passess and last couple of passes on the bottle will not be consistent and if your drag racing consistency is the key.

Personally N2O is great if used correctly. Like I said I've sprayed a bone stock Eclipse to my turbo ZX1100 to my single turbo Mustang w/plenty of success. Its all about purchasing a high quality kit and the additional parts to safeguard your engine. And then there is the tuning.....

Exactly...I would not recommend "learning lessons" on a daily driver. I highly recommend doing a lot of research and speaking with a lot of "experienced" NOS guys. To do it right, learn out to use it, tune the car to use etc. is time consuming, costly and at the end of the day STILL no guarantee that you won't do damage or toast the motor.

[largeorangefont]

OK,

Here are some thoughts that will let your engine live another 2 years.

Are you going to get engine managment??

If not the 75 shot is out of the question. It is not a question of if, but when the motor will grenade at that power level.

If you will not be running any engine managment, the following will apply.

Run the smallest shot you can to start.

Get colder copper plugs. 1-2 steps colder.

The individual runner setup will be cool, but will be a lot more expensive and time consuming to set up. Be aware.

Get a scangauge or something to moniter fuel pressure. You may need a better fuel pump, and fuel pressure will be critical to an untuned setup.

With a really light shot, at MINIMUM run 91/93 octane when you are going to spray.

Get someone with a wideband to check the car on the road when you spray to make sure you aren't running too lean. I would consider an EGT gauge or in car wideband setup for safety.

Cross your fingers.

[ChinoCharles]

Thanks Ashley!!!

What are our management options? Will a Camcon or AEM FIC suffice?

[Tamago]

i ran a 35 shot..

beware.. running nitrous will make you want REAL power (turbo or SC)

[largeorangefont]

Thanks Ashley!!!

What are our management options? Will a Camcon or AEM FIC suffice?

You need something you can adjust fueling AND timing. This is going to be the key to running a shot bigger than 35.

You can probably do the 35 shot without engine managment to try it. The colder plugs and better gas will probably suffice. The car runs slightly rich and the timing is not too agressive on the factory tune so I think you could get it done.

[largeorangefont]

I'm pretty sure a 35 wet shot won't kill the car. He could probably do it with no extra tuning, but he needs to check it when it goes together to see if it is actually safe.

I don't see him needing fueling mods and all the extra crap with such a light shot. If the fuel pump can support the Blitz SC, the 35 shot should should be fine. I really think the best and simplest option would be to build the 35 shot setup with a single nozzle and get a feel for everything. I would consider a window switch to turn it on and off.

[Tamago]

I'm pretty sure a 35 wet shot won't kill the car. He could probably do it with no extra tuning, but he needs to check it when it goes together to see if it is actually safe.

I don't see him needing fueling mods and all the extra crap with such a light shot. If the fuel pump can support the Blitz SC, the 35 shot should should be fine. I really think the best and simplest option would be to build the 35 shot setup with a single nozzle and get a feel for everything. I would consider a window switch to turn it on and off.

my fuel pump is supporting 10psi of nice cold air.. i'm sure even a 75shot wouldn't warrant a larger fuel pump on a wet setup..

[richardholdener]

Interesting reading on this thread. Here are some useful nitrous facts that might be helpful. I ran 2 full 10-lb bottles through my yaris already with no adverse effects and have run literally hundereds of nitrous tests through the years on a variety of different applications (including 15 bottle through my stock 5.0L Mustang). Running the old 120-hp set up on my Yaris (stock exh man, down pipe and no ex, custom version of intake, CAI and lighweight Lucas Oil), we then added a 40-hp shot from a universal NOS EFI (single fogger) wet kit. The result was 162 wheel hp and 155 wheel ft-lb of torque. For definitons-wet kits combine fuel and nitrous into single (or multiple) fogger nozzle(s), regardless of where they are placed in the intake tract. Dry systems add nitrous only through the fogger nozzle(s) and provide the extra fuel through the injectors (usually by increasing fuel pressure by applying nitrous pressure on top of regulator). The multi-port fogger system on the intake was done more for a show car than for actual use since the nitrous and fuel jets would have to be so small. Running a single nozzle wet kit set up to provide 40-hp shot would be easy and provide no adverse effects provided the air/fuel is correct. In my testing, the stock jeting provided by NOS (and others) is usually rich. Keeping botle pressure (by heating) up to 900 psi cures this probelm, but the NOS system tends to err on the safe (rich side). Premium fuel is necessary, cooler plugs are also a good idea. Nitrous use is safe provided the following rules are considered-activate the nitorus no lower than 4000 rpm (lower activation speed will build torque but will also increase chance of detonation). Run good gas-don't put regular unleaded in your nitrous car. A can of octane booster is always a good idea-especially for track use or on hot days. Don't get greedy on hp level-40-hp shot is very fun, but as you go up in power relative to factory power output, chances of damage increase (this works with boost too!) Hope this helps.

[richardholdener]

BTW-No additional fuel pump is necessary at this (162-hp) power level. We have run higher power outputs with turbo motors running the stock fuel pumps, so no pump upgrade is necessary. Adding an inline pump is not an option since the stock fuel system is returnless and pressure control is through pulse-wdith modulation of stock pump. Better option for more fuel is to increase capacity of stock pump (by replacement) or add Kenne Bell boost-a-pump.

[cali yaris]

off topic: does Walbro make an in-tank fuel pump that fits this car?

[richardholdener]

I've never removed the stock pump so I'd have to lok at it to see if the common Walboro (PWM) pumps will bolt in. Usually the problem is the filter screen or discharge tube sizing, but it would be nice if the Toyota pump was similar to the ones we use in the Hondas, Mustangs and Camaros. Otherwise a Kenne Bell boost-a-pump will increase flow by 50% over stock pump.

[whooppee777]

Anyone know if you can run that with the stock mani, and go thru ur CAI?

i noticed no one answered ur question so i will.

i had an interesting conversation with a guy who had a cobalt at a car show last spring. this was around the time when the intake mani was first introduced. so i was telling him about that and then the conversation moved to nos. his intake manifold was plastic like ours also, and he said that a lot of cobalt guys that run nitrous have destroyed their engines and or manifold due to the nitrous collecting at the bottom of the manifold and igniting. he had a name for this thing that happens but i forgot it.

moral of the story is nitrous with the stock intake manifold would not be a good idea. i think small shots may be fine and proper use of the kit should cause no damage.

[whooppee777]

now someone answer this

would i be able to do a wet nos kit on the intake manifold of the blitz supercharger?

[richardholdener]

You can run a wet system with your supercharger. The nozzle should be positioned before the throttle body and the nitrous will help lower the inlet charge temperature. Basically it will act as an intercooler. Use of nitrous with a composite intake is fine as long as you don't experience a back fire (usually excessive rich or lean mixture). The backfire can damage composite intakes (ask the LS1 guys), but runing nitrous itself will not damage intake manifolds.

now someone answer this

would i be able to do a wet nos kit on the intake manifold of the blitz supercharger?

[largeorangefont]

Here is what can happen to an intake manifold when a nitrous backfire occurs. This Mustang has a cast alumnium manifold.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/01-Cobra-on-150-wet-shot_777.htm

[ChinoCharles]

Woah. -gulp- Haha.

[KCALB SIRAY]

The questions and answers below show the advantages of a Nitrous system on an engine as requested by a forum member.

" How about you start a thread stating the "positives" involved in setting up and using Nitrous? I would love to see that."

Q: Will Nitrous affect engine reliability?
A: The key is choosing the correct H.P. for a given application. A kit that uses the correct factory calibration does not usually cause increased wear. As the energy released in the cylinder increases so do the loads on the various components that must handle them. If the load increases exceed the ability of the components to handle them, added wear takes place. NOS kits are designed for use on demand and only at wide open throttle. Nitrous can be extremely advantageous in that it is only used when you want it, not all the time. All NOS kits are designed for maximum power with reliability for a given application.

Q: Can I simply bolt a nitrous kit onto my stock engine?
A: Yes. NOS manufactures systems for virtually any stock engine application. The key is to choose the correct kit for a given application; i.e., 4 cyl. engines normally allow an extra 40-60 HP, 6 cyl. engines usually work great between 75-100 extra HP, small block V8's (302/350/400cid) can typically accept up to 140 extra HP, and big block V8's (427-454) might accept from 125-200 extra HP. These suggested ranges provide maximum reliability from most stock engines using cast pistons and cast crank with few or no engine modifications.

Q: What are some of the general rules for even higher HP gains?
A: Generally, forged aluminum pistons are one of best modifications you can make. Retard ignition timing by 4-8 degrees (1 to 1-1/2 degrees timing retard per 50 HP gain). In many cases a higher flowing fuel pump may be necessary. Higher octane (100+) racing type fuel may be required as well as spark plugs 1 to 2 heat ranges colder than normal with gaps closed to .025"-.030". For gains over 250 HP, other important modifications could be necessary in addition to those mentioned above. These special modifications may include a forged crankshaft, a high quality race type connecting rods, a high output fuel pump dedicated to feeding the additional fuel demands of the nitrous system, and a racing fuel with high specific gravity and an octane rating of 110 or more. For more specific information about your application, please contact the NOS technical dept.

Q: How does nitrous work?
A: Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F, nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "intercooling" effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.

Q: What kind of testing or research is performed on NOS products?
A: NOS maintains a complete research and development center including computerized dynamometer equipment as well as a nitrous/fuel flow testing facility. In addition, NOS is actively involved in many aspects of racing; working closely with many top name racers to develop the most powerful and reliable nitrous systems in the world.

Q: How much performance improvement can I expect with a nitrous system?
A: For many applications an improvement from 1 to 3 full seconds and 10 to 15 MPH in the quarter mile can be expected. Factors such as engine size, tires, jetting, gearing, etc. will affect the final results.

Q: How long will the bottle last?
A: This largely depends on the type of nitrous kit and jetting used. For example, a 125 HP Power Shot kit with a standard 10 lb. capacity bottle will usually offer up to 7 to 10 full quarter-mile passes. For power levels of 250 HP, 3 to 5 full quarter-mile passes may be expected. If nitrous is only used in 2nd and 3rd gears, the number of runs will be more.

Q: How long can I hold the nitrous button down?
A: It is possible to hold the button down until the bottle is empty. However 15 continuous seconds at a time, or less, is recommended.

Q: When is the best time to use nitrous?
A: At wide open throttle only (unless a progressive controller is used). Due to the tremendous amount of increased torque, you will generally find best results, traction permitting, at early activation. Nitrous can be safely applied above 2,500 RPM under full throttle conditions.

Q: Does NOS manufacture 50-state legal nitrous systems?
A: Yes. In fact, NOS has several EO numbers for various kits such as the 5.0L Mustang and 305/350 GM V8's, etc. In addition, there is no need to remove any smog equipment when installing an NOS system. For more information call the NOS tech line.

Q: Will I have to re-jet my carburetor on my car when adding nitrous?
A: No! The NOS system is independent of your carburetor and injects its own mixture of fuel and nitrous.

Q: Is nitrous oxide flammable?
A: No. Nitrous Oxide by itself is non-flammable. However, the oxygen present in nitrous oxide causes combustion of fuel to take place more rapidly.

Q: Will nitrous oxide cause detonation?
A: Not directly. Detonation is the result of too little fuel present during combustion (lean) or too low of an octane of fuel. Too much ignition advance also causes detonation. In general, most of our kits engineered for stock type engines will work well with premium type fuels and minimal decreases of ignition timing. In racing application where higher compression ratios are used, resulting in higher cylinder pressures, a higher fuel octane must be used as well as more ignition retard.

Q: Is there any performance increase in using medical grade nitrous oxide?
A: None! NOS recommends and sells only the automotive grade, called Ny-trous Plus. Ny-trous Plus contains a minimal amount of sulfur dioxide (100 ppm) as a deterrent to substance abuse. The additive does not affect performance.

Q: Is it a good idea to use an aftermarket computer chip in conjunction with an NOS System?
A: Only if the chip has been designed specifically for use with nitrous oxide. Most aftermarket chips use more aggressive timing advance curves to create more power. This can lead to possible detonation. You may wish to check with the manufacturer of the chip before using it. The top manufacturers, such as Hypertech do make special chips for use with nitrous.

Q: How long does it generally take to install an NOS kit?
A: The majority of NOS kits can be installed using common hand tools in approximately 4 to 6 hours. NOS instruction manuals are by far the best in the industry; and include specific installation drawings, wiring diagrams, and bottle mounting procedures as well as performance tips and a thorough trouble shooting guide.

Q: Which type of manifold is better suited for a plate injector type of nitrous system, single or dual plane manifold?
A: As long as the manifold doesn't interfere with the spray pattern of the bars, either will work fine in most cases. The distribution is better with a single plane at high RPM. If your goal is to increase power by more than 150 HP, the single plane manifold is better.

Q: Does nitrous oxide raise cylinder pressure and temperatures?
A: Yes. Due to the ability to burn more fuel, this is exactly why nitrous makes so much power.

Q: Are there any benefits to chilling the nitrous bottle?
A: No. Chilling the bottle lowers the pressure dramatically and will also lower the flow rate of the nitrous causing a fuel rich condition and reducing power. On cold evenings you might run on the rich side. For optimal running conditions, keep bottle pressure at approximately 900-950 psi. NOS has a nitrous pressure gauge that allows you to monitor this. If you live or operate a nitrous system in colder temperatures, it may also be a good idea to purchase a bottle heater kit, part #14164. Generally, ambient temperatures of 80-90 degrees F will allow for best power potential of NOS kits.

Q: Are there benefits to using nitrous with turbo or super-charger applications?
A: Absolutely! In turbo applications, turbo lag is completely eliminated with the addition of a nitrous system. In addition, both turbo and superchargers compress the incoming air, thus heating it. With the injection of nitrous, a tremendous intercooling effect reduces intake charge temperatures by 75 degrees or more. Boost is usually increased as well, adding to even more power.

Q: How complete is an NOS kit?
A: NOS prides itself on offering the most complete systems on the market today. They include virtually every component that may be needed for a complete installation; parts such as extra long carburetor studs, gaskets, pipe tap, fuel hose, brackets, filters, fittings, hardware, wiring, 10 lb. bottle with Hi-Flo valve, comprehensive instruction manual, and all other major components are standard in every NOS kit.

Q: What is the difference between a standard and an NOS Hi-Flo bottle valve?
A: The orifice of the Hi-Flo valve is much larger than the standard valve allowing for a larger flow of nitrous. With a small orifice valve a pressure drop could occur when nitrous flow is high; causing surging or inadequate nitrous flow. The NOS Hi-Flo valve eliminates this problem. NOS Hi-Flo valves are standard in all NOS kits.

Q: What affect does nitrous have on an engine with considerable miles on it?
A: This depends largely on the actual condition of the engine components. Any performance modification to an engine that is worn out or poorly tuned will have detrimental effects. However, an engine in good condition, with good ring and head gasket sealing, should be able to use nitrous without any abnormal wear.

Q: Will the use of nitrous oxide affect the catalytic converter?
A: No. The increase in oxygen present in the exhaust may actually increase the efficiency of the converter. Since the use of nitrous is normally limited to 10-20 seconds of continuous use, there usually are no appreciable effects. Temperatures are typically well within acceptable standards.

Q: Will the percentage of performance increase be the same in a highly modified engine compared to a stock engine when using the same NOS kit and jetting?
A: Not really. In most cases the percentage of increase is greater from a stock engine because it is not as efficient as the modified engine in a normal non-nitrous mode. However, since the effects of nitrous oxide magnify the output of any engine, the total power output will be much higher in the modified engine.

Q: Can high compression engines utilize nitrous oxide?
A: Absolutely. High or low compression ratios can work quite suitably with nitrous oxide provided the proper balance of nitrous and fuel enrichment is maintained. NOS kits are used in applications from relatively low compression stock type motors to Pro-Modifieds, which often exceed 15 to 1. Generally, the higher the compression ratio, the more ignition retard, as well as higher octane fuel, is required. For more specific information talk to one of our technicians.

Q: Can service station fuel be used for street/strip nitrous oxide applications?
A: Yes. Use of a premium type leaded or unleaded fuel of 92, or greater, octane is recommended for most applications. Many NOS systems are designed for use with service station pump gas. However, when higher compression or higher horsepower levels are used, a racing fuel of 100 octane, or more, must be used.

Q: What type of cam is best suited for use with nitrous oxide?
A: Generally, cams that have less exhaust overlap and more exhaust duration. However, it is best to choose a cam tailored to normal use (when nitrous is not activated) since 99% of most vehicle operations is not at full throttle. There are special cam grinds available for nitrous competition which have more aggressive exhaust profile ramping, etc. Since cam selection depends largely on vehicle weight, gearing, etc., it is best to stick to cam manufacturers' recommendations for your particular goal.

Q: Are NOS kits applicable on late model EFI cars?
A: Yes. In fact NOS has by far the most comprehensive selection of nitrous kits available for these cars. Call for your specific application if you do not see it listed.

Q: What type of nitrous system is better; a plate injection system or a direct port injection system?
A: The advantages of a plate system are ease of installation and removal, ability to transfer easily to another vehicle, ability to change jetting combinations quickly, and in most cases, provide you with all the extra HP you will ever need (75 to 350 more HP). In some cases, such as in-line type engines with long runners, a direct port type system is advisable for maximizing distribution. Also, where more than 350 HP is needed, our direct port Fogger systems will provide the ultimate in distribution and power (up to 500+ HP). Direct port injection is also desirable when the system is hidden under the manifold.

Q: Should I modify my fuel system to use nitrous oxide?
A: Most stock fuel pumps will work adequately for smaller nitrous applications. It is important to check to see if your pump can flow enough fuel to your existing fuel system (whether carburetor or fuel injected), as well as being able to supply the additional fuel required by the nitrous kit under full throttle conditions. It may be a good idea to dedicate a separate fuel pump to the nitrous kit.

Q: Which is the best position to mount a nitrous bottle?
A: NOS bottles come with siphon tubes and, in order to maintain proper nitrous pickup, it is important to mount the bottle correctly. We recommend mounting the bottle at a 15 degree angle with the valve end higher than the bottom of the bottle. The valve end of the bottle should point to the front of the vehicle and the valve knob and label should face straight up.

Q: How important is it to use nitrous and fuel filters in a kit?
A: Some of the most important components of any nitrous system are nitrous and fuel filters. To keep contaminants from attacking the solenoid or plugging up a jet, NOS nitrous filters feature a special stainless steel mesh element from the aerospace industry.

Q: What are the advantages of using nitrous compared to other performance options?
A: The cost of many other performance options can put you in the poorhouse. Dollar for dollar, you can't buy more performance with less money than nitrous. With a nitrous system, performance and reliability can be had for a much more reasonable price while still retaining the advantage of a stock engine during normal driving. And, Nitrous offers tremendous gains in torque without having to rev the engine to excessive rpm's. These factors help your engine last longer than many other methods of boosting horsepower.

Q: Does NOS manufacture kits for motorcycles, water craft, or snowmobiles?
A: Absolutely. Call or write NOS to obtain our special catalog devoted specifically to these applications.

Q: What kind of pressures are components subject to in a typical nitrous kit?
A: Pressures often exceed 1,000 psi. This is why NOS uses only high pressure tested aircraft quality components like stainless steel braided Teflon lines throughout its system.

Q: How do I know how much nitrous is left in the bottle?
A: The most reliable method was is to weigh the bottle to determine how many pounds remain. When a bottle is near empty (about 20% or less nitrous remaining) a surging effect is normally felt.

Q: What is the function of the blow-off safety valve on the bottle?
A: It is very important not to overfill a bottle; i.e., a 10 lb. capacity bottle should not be filled with more than 10 lbs. of nitrous oxide by weight. Over-filling and/or too much heat can cause excessive bottle pressures forcing the safety seal to blow and releasing all the contents out of the bottle.

Q: Will I have to change my ignition system?
A: Most late model ignition systems are well suited for nitrous applications. In some higher HP cases, it may be advisable to look into a high quality high output ignition system.

[Chupacabra]

clever. I think I know enough now to go set it up and run it (even though I'll admit that I am green about the ears in regards to tuning cars). Thanks for the input....Knowledge is power! :burnrubber::bow:

[hatchbackkid82]

Hmmmm..... i could've sworn that knowledge was experience....lol:biggrin:

[eTiMaGo]

Well thanks Mike for the FAQ, very educational but it does not really tell us *why* Nitrous is advantageous compared to other power-creating solutions. So, off the top of my head, and someone please correct me if I am wrong about some assumptions:

1) On-demand aspect: unlike a turbo or supercharger which are pretty much always on (with exceptions), when you want a burst of acceleration, it's just a button away.

2) Relatively easy install: No need to faff about with downpipes and tubing and belts and so on, nitrous piping is relatively speaking much easier to set up

3) Low cost of entry: You can get a Nitrous kit from several respectable companies for a lot cheaper than any turbo or supercharger kit. Of course, in the long run, refilling that bottle will add up, so if you plan to use it every single day, better save up for a turbo! :laugh:

4) You can relive your Fast & Furious/Gone in 60 Seconds fantasies... Go Baby Go! In other words, this is the psychological aspect of point 1) above, there's just something cool about pressing a button and feeling the surge of speed, which I suppose would also tie in to exposure to racing video games...

5) You can get high off N2O :laugh: Well, the medical grade stuff anyway...

OK I'm just getting silly now.

On the other hand there are of course disadvantages... Go crazy with the dosage and duration and you'll really shorten the life of your engine. But, the same can be said of turbos and superchargers, really... Ya gotta draw the line somewhere and stick to it, or invest heavily into strengthening the engine.

And lastly, the hot topic, why bother doing this at all on a daily driven 100hp econobox? All I can say is, why not? We can't all afford "proper" sports cars, a lot of us appreciate the "wolf in sheep's clothing" aspect of a fast Yaris, and as long as the owner understands the downsides of the planned modification, and has no problem with the prospect of shortening the engine's lifespan, go for it!

[KCALB SIRAY]

Thanks Thomas. I can see all but two of those addressed but not directly above. The getting high thing I forgot about, lol. I'll add yours to the list for reference. Can we make this a sticky?

[changchewsoon]

sorry to bring up an old thread, i just want to share this with everyone.

this is a dyno chart of a stock yaris automatic transmission equipped with a wet nitrous kit running a 50 shot fogger nozzle. timing was retarded when the nitrous starts spraying.

engagement of the nitrous is done via e-manage, using the vtec output.

the owner later increased it to a 75 shot and spun a rod. it is now going through a rebuild with forged internals and will run a direct port system starting with 100 shots.

if anyone plans to run dry kit, you would definitely need to upgrade your injectors if you plan to spray more than 50 shots and you'll need an engine management to richen the injectors when it engages.

personally, i would think a wet kit or a direct port will be best.

[blacksandiegovitz]

I just finished installing my "dry" set up yesterday and I just need to get the bottle filled .
Its a zex "safe shot" kit which is bacially just a push button activated system . I have a "30hp" jet in right now . I'll post updates soon.

[Tamago]

lol, wow this thread was garbage from the get-go. bench racers should not be allowed to post what they read about another persons post about their buddy's friend's mom's mustang and pretend it's applicable here.

if the car can handle 75 more turbo horsepower, it should be able to handle 50 more nitrous horsepower (remember that nitrous and turbo power curves are backwards from each other. nitrous comes in hard, and tapers off, turbo comes in soft and ends much "stronger". this is why you should never spray your engine at low revs. your rods can't handle the shock load of 50 extra hp at 2000rpms)

and thanks to those who posted actual knowledge, not BS gleaned from watching youtube.

[blacksandiegovitz]

lol, wow this thread was garbage from the get-go. bench racers should not be allowed to post what they read about another persons post about their buddy's friend's mom's mustang and pretend it's applicable here.

if the car can handle 75 more turbo horsepower, it should be able to handle 50 more nitrous horsepower (remember that nitrous and turbo power curves are backwards from each other. nitrous comes in hard, and tapers off, turbo comes in soft and ends much "stronger". this is why you should never spray your engine at low revs. your rods can't handle the shock load of 50 extra hp at 2000rpms)

and thanks to those who posted actual knowledge, not BS gleaned from watching youtube.

^^ Word :thumbsup:
I plan on doing first test runs with a .20 jet ie around 20hp just to make sure everything is working right then i'll step it up to either a .30=35hp or .32 =38/39hp@950psi bottle pressure . I have the nozzle about 6/7" away from the tb and the same distance from the maf . I'm at about $160 into my set-up right now , minus the nitrous fill up . I plan on getting a bottle warmer when I find one for cheap and a pressure gauge too . I'll post up dyno and or 1/8 mile numbers real soon , just need more cash lol:thumbsup:
Btw my car/motor are under warrenty for 83,000 more miles and my dealer/service department guys are all really cool with my car/warrenty work(no questions asked and they dont care my car is modded:thumbup:) so no worrie's if I happen to ef' the motor up with too much n2o :biggrin:

[CASTREX]

Remember to run premium fuel.
Perhaps some Lucas or Torco octane booster and 1 step colder plugs... all cheap upgrades that will help you prevent detonation. Especially on a dry shot.

Post some numbers and vids..!:wink:

[changchewsoon]

nitrous comes in hard, and tapers off, turbo comes in soft and ends much "stronger". this is why you should never spray your engine at low revs. your rods can't handle the shock load of 50 extra hp at 2000rpms)

agreed, the solenoids was only triggered when the rpm reaches a minimum range of 3,500 and TPS indicating more than 90% opening.

[bearda]

Remember to run premium fuel.
Perhaps some Lucas or Torco octane booster and 1 step colder plugs... all cheap upgrades that will help you prevent detonation. Especially on a dry shot.

Post some numbers and vids..!:wink:

I understand you'd want to run the colder plugs when using the nitrous to avoid detonation, but what's the effect of running one step colder the rest of the time?

[window_lee]

does the wet kit going to make the intake system dirty???

[blacksandiegovitz]

I understand you'd want to run the colder plugs when using the nitrous to avoid detonation, but what's the effect of running one step colder the rest of the time?

I think im gonna stay in the same heat range but go with either the zex plugs or e3 diamond fire plugs . From what i've read its not so much a wrong heat range plug causing detonation with nitrous as the spark plug grounding strap getting too hot and basically turning the spark plug to a glow plug .
http://www.zex.com/Pages/60/4%20and%206%20Cylinder%20Engines.aspx

[Liltoaster]

does the wet kit going to make the intake system dirty???

Not really! I have been spraying for three bottles now and no issues with a dirty intake. If anything its cleaner :)

[jekqmb]

Okay so im going to be putting the bottle on in a few weeks after my intake/exhaust setup...But i was wondering if anyone has ran nitrous on this car yet? Im doing a 50 shot Wet, i was wondering if you can get 1 step colder plugs for these cars, and how do the stock clutches hold up? Im shooting for low 15's on nitrous with bolt-ons. Maybe 135-140whp:thumbup:
Ill keep you guys updated! Here is the kit going on! It was on my Redline, this is an NX kit with a dual mainline for two 5 l/b bottles :biggrin:
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u127/jekqmb/Picture004-1-1.jpg

[blacksandiegovitz]

I just installed mine (set-up for 35 dry shot) a few weeks ago , but haven't filled the tank yet cause I still need to switch plug ( same heat range just with 3 grounding straps ) and want to make the first couple runs @ the track to make sure everything is good . Looks like a sweet kit you got keep us posted

[Mateo]

wow dude cool stuff... if we meet up to take some pics I want a ride:bow:

[AlexNet0]

If you are gonna go wet, you might wanna consider another fuel rail you can tap for the "wet" part of the shot, lol. its a return-less fuel system.

however definetely keep us posted, because I am adding nitrous sometime soon as well, and if you find a nice easy way without buying another fuel rail or tapping this one, let me know.

[lilredrocket]

^ Alex I think you are thinking about a direct port system. With a wet inject kit you usually add between the MAF and TB or right after the TB

[AlexNet0]

no, Im talking adding fuel to the nitrous. Wet is spraying nitrous mixed with fuel, dry is nitrous only

[ChinoCharles]

I believe that is incorrect lilredrocket. Direct port is done through the fuel injector (basically). Wet kits are individual ports on the intake manifold runners, and dry kits are done anywhere pre-manifold.

[AlexNet0]

A wet single-point nitrous system introduces the fuel and nitrous together

wiki (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrous)

Im sorry I should have been more specific.

[jekqmb]

Well i could go dry, but i wouldnt even dare push a 50 dry shot threw this engine since we have no tuning out for us...Also with a Wet im alittle worried about the stock Mani puddling and me getting a good'ol backfire. We'll see how it goes once install rolls around. This will be my 7th nitrous setup ive installed.

[AlexNet0]

yeah, Im going 35-40 tops wet "single shot", through an injection spacer between throttle body and intake mani. at least untill I have the cash for internals.

[AlanSRT4]

sorry to bring up an old thread, i just want to share this with everyone.

this is a dyno chart of a stock yaris automatic transmission equipped with a wet nitrous kit running a 50 shot fogger nozzle. timing was retarded when the nitrous starts spraying.

engagement of the nitrous is done via e-manage, using the vtec output.

the owner later increased it to a 75 shot and spun a rod. it is now going through a rebuild with forged internals and will run a direct port system starting with 100 shots.

if anyone plans to run dry kit, you would definitely need to upgrade your injectors if you plan to spray more than 50 shots and you'll need an engine management to richen the injectors when it engages.

personally, i would think a wet kit or a direct port will be best.

His baseline was only 75whp? That sure does seem low sure there was not problems before he started?

[blacksandiegovitz]

His baseline was only 75whp? That sure does seem low sure there was not problems before he started?

Thats about right hp numbers for and auto dyno pull

[lilredrocket]

Never said anything about WHP base line he was spraying a 75 shot when he spun the rod. His base line is probably where anyones is with a couple bolt-ons

[blacksandiegovitz]

sorry to bring up an old thread, i just want to share this with everyone.

this is a dyno chart of a stock yaris automatic transmission equipped with a wet nitrous kit running a 50 shot fogger nozzle. timing was retarded when the nitrous starts spraying.

engagement of the nitrous is done via e-manage, using the vtec output.

the owner later increased it to a 75 shot and spun a rod. it is now going through a rebuild with forged internals and will run a direct port system starting with 100 shots.

if anyone plans to run dry kit, you would definitely need to upgrade your injectors if you plan to spray more than 50 shots and you'll need an engine management to richen the injectors when it engages.

personally, i would think a wet kit or a direct port will be best.

Stock auto yaris , with nothing but spray , I'd say 77 whp sounds dead on for a stock auto

[changchewsoon]

well, my stock automatic Yaris Sedan pulled a 81 whp which I think is about right for a standard stock car.

[tk-421]

Can we make this a sticky?

Can I merge this with The Nitrous Thread?

Thread cleaned, merged and stickied. :thumbsup:

[frownonfun]

ok so i've read through this whole thread and i'm still not sure what the consensus is on where the best place is to spray the nitrous. is it pre TB or right after or into the intake manifold? would i be fine injecting it into the tubing directly before the TB? i thought i read in one of these posts that someone had successfully done that or recommended it if running a s/c.

[Nexus1155]

Dry kit you would run it before the throttle body. Wet kit after the throttle body, would you want a pool of nitrous stuck inside if some gets caught on the throttle body and just drips into intake..

[KCALB SIRAY]

Thread cleaned, merged and stickied. :thumbsup:

oooOOOO my first sticky :biggrin: My nipples just got hard!

[Tamago]

Dry kit you would run it before the throttle body. Wet kit after the throttle body, would you want a pool of nitrous stuck inside if some gets caught on the throttle body and just drips into intake..

a pool of nitrous lmfao dude, since when was nitrous oxide a liquid in it's uncompressed state?

[Nexus1155]

builds up on the butterfly?

[Tamago]

builds up on the butterfly?

frozen water ?

because you guys are DBW, yeah i wouldn't recommend spraying super-chilled air past delicate equipment..

but a traditional setup wet or dry can be mounted pre-throttlebody.

[lilredrocket]

Then evaporates. I always thought a dry system was setup at the begining of the intake system by the filter. I believe zex even sells cone filters with a nozzle in them

[Tamago]

then evaporates

ding ding ding!

[lilredrocket]

Why do hondas purge their nitros system on their windsheild and have no extra fluids running down it

[TOUGEghost]

It's not actually "on" the windshield (or at least it shouldn't be). The purge line is usually routed there pointed up so the driver can see it. It's just a quick shot into the air to make sure the nitrous line is fully charged and there isn't any air or vapor in it.

[lilredrocket]

I understand what the purge is for. I was only saying that because some of the Hondas that I saw when I lived in Kansas did it on their windsheild not sure why though

[E.R.G]

I want to buy a nitrous system. Which one is the best for the 1NZ-FE?? Which are the options to choose from? My engine is 100% stock.

[Liltoaster]

I want to buy a nitrous system. Which one is the best for the 1NZ-FE?? Which are the options to choose from? My engine is 100% stock.

ZEX kit is what I am running, Easy setup and looks clean too :) My motor is also stock (internals) too

[blacksandiegovitz]

ZEX kit is what I am running, Easy setup and looks clean too :) My motor is also stock (internals) too

Are you using the Zex nitrous management unit (the box) or just a nitrous seloniod ??? I got the zex set-up for cheap but ditched the management unit cause its set up for standard fuel systems that use a fuel pressure regulator which the yaris doesn't have .

[CASTREX]

Courtesy of Microimageonline.com

NX nitrous kit + 50hp shot = Awesome!!

This is my friends car... I took it for a drive last night and got bottom happy if you know what I mean... :bellyroll::bellyroll:

Some pics:

[E.R.G]

Liltoaster, which ZEX kit do you have ????? I want to use it only for drag racing. Now my best ET is 16.45. I would like to run in 15...

Thanks for the info.

[SEVEN]

How much money have you guys spent on kits?? and how many HP are you getting???

I'm getting about 145whp 160 torque (about 400 spent on parts) with spray .. hopefully will be able to get 155whp in about 2 or 3 weeks with new jets. Will post dyno sheets soon.

[blacksandiegovitz]

How much money have you guys spent on kits?? and how many HP are you getting???

I'm getting about 145whp 160 torque (about 400 spent on parts) with spray .. hopefully will be able to get 155whp in about 2 or 3 weeks with new jets. Will post dyno sheets soon.

^^ What kit are you running wet or dry .
So far I got like $140 into my set-up which it a 10lb nitrous express bottle , with zex dry no2 selonoid a zex nozzle taped into the intake . Just about the most basic kit ever . Activated with an arming switch and push button(just like F&F lol ) jetted with a .38 which is right around 40hp . I need to dyno for the real numbers though.

[MiniTRD]

I am in the process of final fitment of my ZEX wet kit. It is the one I had in my tC, just rejetted for the Yaris.


Here are a couple of pics of my setup and purge

My solenoids are behind the engine, mounted on the firewall - I;ll get some close-ups pics of those and post them up.


Let me know if you have any questions

[MiniTRD]

http://californiaimportalliance.com/qt/purge.mov

purge!

[Nexus1155]

VERY COOL, dual purge would be awesome there, like a ragin bull. Please tell me it lights up at night? hahahah If i get this kit im looking at that would be the perfect place for the purge, thanks for the idea :)

[jouna]

if i put a 40 shot with stock internals and all the mods i have. how much can my engine live. i like to race but im not going to use it all the time at every stop light
. my mods are in my signature

[Liltoaster]

if i put a 40 shot with stock internals and all the mods i have. how much can my engine live. i like to race but im not going to use it all the time at every stop light
. my mods are in my signature


I was running a 55 shot on my Echo with no issues and I ran a few bottles through it :)

[blacksandiegovitz]

I was running a 55 shot on my Echo with no issues and I ran a few bottles through it :)

Dry or Wet ??? and where did you mount the nozzle (like what kind of intake and how far from the tb ) ???

[jekqmb]

Wait for Garms intake mani to come out, with bigger injectors and a tuner this car will be able to handle a 75 shot and make in the 160-170whp range with bolt-ons and nitrous. Are stock manis and injectors just cause too many problems. These cars on nitrous can be ran in the 13's if done right with a direct port setup and a 75 shot. But not with a plastic mani and are stock injectors. I have been doing a ton of research on this. Im also not new to nitrous.... my last cars setup was a dual mainline with 2 bottles and a 90 shot on a ported blower. Spraying after the MAF.......made 347whp
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u127/jekqmb/P1080681.jpg

[SEVEN]

Never use a dry kit, your car will run way to lean and it may damage the engine, my advice, buy an APEXi AFC take it to the dyno, the yaris will definitely hold 50hp worth of nos with the correct mixture of air and fuel, i've been told it can hold 60, I have not tried this, I do know it cannot hold 75, everyone I know that has tried this have blown their engine, although I dont know if they set up the kit with the AFC. Hope this helped

[Corykins]

I think the moral to this story, and this entire thread, is that NOS is super cool where appropriate. As much as I love my Yaris...I wouldn't spend 1k+ on installing a NOS kit and using it a handful of times. Plus if you need it to be your daily car for the next two years...this doesn't seem like a mod you'd want to make.

However...

If you've made your mind up, all the more power to ya and good luck! Post some pictures when it's all said and done!

[QR25DE_SpecV]

I think the moral to this story, and this entire thread, is that NOS is super cool where appropriate. As much as I love my Yaris...I wouldn't spend 1k+ on installing a NOS kit and using it a handful of times. Plus if you need it to be your daily car for the next two years...this doesn't seem like a mod you'd want to make.

However...

If you've made your mind up, all the more power to ya and good luck! Post some pictures when it's all said and done!

Responding to a thread from 08, Cory? :D Fail.

[tk-421]

Guys I need help with finishing up my NOS kit. I have a TB spacer with fogger hole coming in soon, so I'm guessing that all I'm missing is a window switch to tie everything together, right?

Unfortunately, I have no idea which one to get. Here are a few units I've come across so far (click on the images for links):

Here's the system I got from Garm (at an excellent price, BTW):
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/images/products/20923-10.jpg (http://www.nitrousexpress.com/product-details.php?id=912)

MSD Window RPM Activated Switch
http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedimages/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/RPM_Timing_Controls/8956_full.jpg (http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx?id=6973&terms=window+switch)

NOS Fuel Injection Drive-By-Wire Wide Open Throttle Window Switches
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/nos-15982nos_w.jpg (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NOS-15982NOS/?rtype=10)

Not sure if I need these too:
TPS VOLTAGE SENSING FULL THROTTLE ACTIVATION SWITCH
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/images/products/15961.jpg (http://www.nitrousexpress.com/product-details.php?id=336)

HYPERFORMANCE™ SPARK PLUGS
http://www.zex.com/Base/Images/Products/400-300_SparkPlugs_001N.jpg (http://www.zex.com/Pages/60/4%20and%206%20Cylinder%20Engines.aspx)

Any ideas? I really want to get that thing on my car. :burnrubber:
Thanks in advance!

[cali yaris]

http://nitrousexpress.com/products.php?category=1,26,87

[tk-421]

Not sure what I'm looking at. I see a bunch of RPM chips and an "NX DIGITAL RPM WINDOW SWITCH"...

Are you saying that all I need is either an RPM chip or a window switch? If so, which RPM chip would be best? I'm thinking 3000 is pretty low, and the others are a bit high for our cars, right? Where should the chip go?

I'm a huge n00b when it comes to this, so spoon-feeding is appreciated (and encouraged). :redface:

[cruz-gsr]

i want to know too, my kit is going in soon

[blacksandiegovitz]

sale pending from another Yw member on this custom intake manifold set-up for direct port nitrous right now , will post pictures of it installed this weekend !

[dobbiedoo]

I had a zex kit on my 94 Altima, lots of fun beating up on a lot of cars.When using the system it is reccommended not to use over 12 seconds. Zex has a kit out there for almost any car. This is a dry system with one fogger that goes in your intake plenum, close to your throttle body.The kit has a bottle, a long braided line, a Zex distribution solenoid, a switch, and pills for how much of a shot you need. The kit goes from 50 to 100 shot. Depending on where you live you may need a bottle warmer, I never used one. I have never used a purge kit, if your system is leak tight why would you need to purge? The system also require you to use one step colder plugs.:w00t:

[tk-421]

Guys I need help with finishing up my NOS kit.
Bump?

[Nexus1155]

I just got a vice for my machine and installed the tooling, just gotta figure out how the cam software works then i'll probably be doing the nitrous gig too with a spacer plate.

All you really need is a basic kit, purge would be nice but alot of people don't run them, and a window switch. You can never really go wrong with ZEX. But you want to make sure it activates with TPS and RPMs IE: at 90%+ Throttle Position and from 3000-200rpm before redline. And also an activation button to make sure you don't spray all day long. I doubt you want the thing to be spraying at only 40% throttle either :P

Good luck with your project!

This one looks good, i think its in your picture up there. Goes by TPS and RPM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MSD-8940-TPS-RPM-PROGRAMMABLE-NITROUS-ACTIVATED-SWITCH-/300370575781?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45ef7b41a5

[tk-421]

It's almost like the one on my picture, but this one does TPS as well... Thanks for the find! :thumbsup:

Now I need to find an activator switch that fits... I'm getting close!

[Faraz_Shaikh]

i'm running nos on 1szfe, 55 dry shots, its good

[magilla]

can i use nitrous on stock intake manifold spraying a 50shot direct inject into each port?

[tk-421]

I don't think the mani would take it TBH... You may be interested in the upcoming offering from MicroImage, which will have optional nitrous ports.

Be prepared to wait a while for that, however...

[.Kevin.]

Yaris bodys can actually handle nos holy crap

[magilla]

will the manifold handle direct inject for each port using 4 wet foggers

[magilla]

if i fab a steel intake manifold up with nitrous ports are people interested to buy them cheaper then the weapon type r intake

[cali yaris]

^ yes, but only if you do the math so it makes power.

[xbgod]

Yeah, you better do the math and it can't look like that ragged piece of crap on the previous page if you intend on selling them.

By the time you get it all figured out and have one as nice as the weapon-R you'll be at the same price.

The purge is a must. It's used to releave bottle pressure. Anything over a 1000 psi your starting to look for trouble. So if it's a hot day and your bottles in the car and it's lets say 1400 psi you gotta purge, other wise it would be like hitting your car with a 200 shot and boom it's over.

I know this first hand, I've done it.

direct port is the best, it allows for even spray across all the cylinders. A fogger kit will not. Most of your NO2 will end up in cylinders 1 and 2 , which in a small shot is not so bad but not so good either.

You want a wet kit, this will be a whole lot safer.

If you want to go direct port than just look at my post and you'll see the weapon-R manifold with the bungs I had welded in, not to mention it's a proven manifold.

Good Building

XBG

[blacksandiegovitz]

Yeah, you better do the math and it can't look like that ragged piece of crap on the previous page if you intend on selling them.

By the time you get it all figured out and have one as nice as the weapon-R you'll be at the same price.

The purge is a must. It's used to releave bottle pressure. Anything over a 1000 psi your starting to look for trouble. So if it's a hot day and your bottles in the car and it's lets say 1400 psi you gotta purge, other wise it would be like hitting your car with a 200 shot and boom it's over.

I know this first hand, I've done it.

direct port is the best, it allows for even spray across all the cylinders. A fogger kit will not. Most of your NO2 will end up in cylinders 1 and 2 , which in a small shot is not so bad but not so good either.

You want a wet kit, this will be a whole lot safer.

If you want to go direct port than just look at my post and you'll see the weapon-R manifold with the bungs I had welded in, not to mention it's a proven manifold.

Good Building

XBG

^^ Hey watch it buddy , that intake mainfold is on my car lol . You need to hurry up and sell me that blitz s/c so I can get it off my car :thumbsup:

[xbgod]

oh, shit..thats yours....

I wasn't trying to completly run you over but, well.......it is pretty ugly and I don't think your making any exra power with that design.

But don't worry we'll change that.

XBG

[blacksandiegovitz]

oh, shit..thats yours....

I wasn't trying to completly run you over but, well.......it is pretty ugly and I don't think your making any exra power with that design.

But don't worry we'll change that.

XBG

^^ Its all good lol . I got it from the 2007 sema NOS car with all the nitrous nozzles/jets/lines/seloniods for a price I couldn't pass up . As for power mabey picked up a few hp on top-end only and the low end power sucks now. Or I guess I should say "for now"...

[2005rs]

I know this is an old post but I thought it better than posting in the general section;

Has anyone hooked up a water/methanol pump to the fuel side of a wet nitrous nozzle? Seems to me that would take care of a lot of the knocking issues and concerns with using lower grades of fuel. (premium fuel is 10cents a litre more where I come from)

I was thinking of making a water meth injection system like this: http://www.turbomirage.com/water-alcohol-injection-installation-instructions.html
to use in conjunction with a nitrous setup. Then it occurred to me it would be simpler just to hook the water pump up directly to the nitrous system's fuel solenoid.

[crazylegs]

how much of a shot do you need before the yaris starts knocking?

I'd like the idea of doing an 80 shot direct port injection on the stock engine, then when the car's mileage gets up there most likely in 3-4 years i'll rebuild the bottom end and would like to run much higher shot 200-240hp (50-60hp per cylinder).

i just prefer to use nitrous to have a 12 second yaris then boost cause i like the the idea of having a grocery getter with great MPG 99.9% of the time, and at a flip of a switch have a beast.

[crazylegs]

sale pending from another Yw member on this custom intake manifold set-up for direct port nitrous right now , will post pictures of it installed this weekend !

that intake you posted is ugly as hell but i love it lol

[crazylegs]

hey i was just curious what you guys are running in the 1/4mile