View Full Version : DIY Rear Drum Brake Adjustment/Parking Brake W/ PICS Inside
YarisSedan
12-31-2008, 08:32 PM
http://www.jasonlabar.com/step1.jpg
Make sure you have all the proper tools before you start. You can use your lug nut removal tool and floor jack
that came with your car but it makes more hassle removing everything from your car and putting it back plus its not
as efficient as using a real floor jack and breaker bar.
Now that you have all your tools park your car on the most level surface you can find and leave the parking brake
off.
http://www.jasonlabar.com/step2.jpg
Position the floor jack directly under the lift point. If you look under the car you will see 2 notches where the
jack can sit securely.
http://www.jasonlabar.com/step3.jpg
Jack up the rear of the car whichever side you decide you want to start first. Make sure the tire is not completely
off the ground as the tire will spin when you try to remove the lug nuts.
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv257/jasonlabar/step4.jpg
Using your breaking bar and socket turn it counter clock ways with a jerking motion and spin it about a full 360 turn
to make sure they are properly loose. Once this is done now you can jack up the car till the wheel is about 1 inch
off the ground.
http://www.jasonlabar.com/step5.jpg
Now that the wheel is off you may have trouble removing the drum. This is where the screwdriver comes in. You can
utilize the 2 screw holes and insert 2 bolts and ratchet them in till the drum pops off. More than likely though
since the drum is loose and you are going to make it tighter this should not be necessary. Just take your
screwdriver and insert it in between the drum and backing plate and twist and it should pop off. If it dose not come
off try in opposing sides slowly till it comes out.
http://www.jasonlabar.com/step6.jpg
Once the drum is removed clean out all the dust inside the drum and wash out dust on your brake parts with plain
water from a garden hose or spray bottle. I don't recommend any chemical cleaners as it will clean off the
lubrication grease between the backing plate and brake shoe and to re lube it will require another DIY. Simple water
and letting it air dry will suffice. Once everything has dried put the drum bake on securely and rotate it
clockwise. It should spin approx 360 degrees and stop. The more rotations will help you gage how much you will
need to adjust it till it rotates only 360.
http://www.jasonlabar.com/step7.jpg
Now locate the star wheel. It is at the upper portion right below the wheel cylinder. Take your screwdriver again
and push it forward toward the backing plate 2 clicks. Put the drum back on and spin it. Take it off and adjust 2
clicks more. Keep doing this till you get satisfactory results. Perfect adjustment you should hear the brake shoe
ever so slightly rubbing against the inside of the drum as you spin it and it should fall short of a full spin.
Once you get this result you are done.
Put the drum back on and the wheel back in place. Screw on all the lug nuts hand tight. Then while the wheel is
off the ground still take your breaker bar and jerk it clockwise while holding the wheel. Making sure they are
decently snug. Then lower the vehicle down and use your torque wrench and torque all 4 nuts down to 76ft pounds.
Repeat same procedure on the other wheel. Once you are done test your parking brake. It should feel firm and go
up about 3 clicks. Now go out and enjoy your better feeling brake pedal, decreased stopping distance and properly
operating parking brake.
PetersRedYaris
12-31-2008, 08:56 PM
Nice... People should know that the "star wheel" easily clicks in only one direction. If you go to far it's a kind of PIA to get it back in. I suppose with the drum off it's easy, but if you do this without removing the wheels by going through the small rubber plug on the inside of the hub, you cannot back them off if you go to far. Just a FYI...
auxmike
12-31-2008, 08:59 PM
Nice job, but might have missed a few things;
You should add to make sure the tranny is in "P" or in gear on a 5 speed to avoid the car rolling away.
Also,chock the wheels and use jackstands.
Twisting a screwdriver between the drum and backing plate is a good way to BEND up the plate.
I would'nt use water to clean the braking system components, never heard of that way.
PetersRedYaris
12-31-2008, 09:00 PM
All good points...
YarisSedan
01-01-2009, 03:32 AM
Nice job, but might have missed a few things;
You should add to make sure the tranny is in "P" or in gear on a 5 speed to avoid the car rolling away.
Also,chock the wheels and use jackstands.
Twisting a screwdriver between the drum and backing plate is a good way to BEND up the plate.
I would'nt use water to clean the braking system components, never heard of that way.
Actually I would assume most people would know better than to leave the car in neutral while jacking up the car. If the car is automatic chocking the wheels is not nessisary if the vehicle is parked in a level surface and thus why i suggested to jack the car only a inch above the ground. Twisting the screwdriver between the backing plate wont bend the backing plate. You are prying on it ever so gently. Even if you used it as a pry bar and pryed it you still wont be able to bend it. That thing is solid. Maybe if it was the backing plate on a disk brake system then yeah you could bend it possibly. But still you could just bend it back by hand if it was that easy. And using water is a safe way to clean the brake dust off. its not very efficient but most shop professional brake cleaners that roll up to the car and run solvent over the brake system and collect it into the container is a mixture of part water and part solvent.
The reason i dont suggest a solvent is because it will clean off the grease that is lubricating the backing plate and you may have squeeking after the service is performed. My profession during the day is a mechanic so i woudlnt suggest anything that would be harmful to your car or what tricks mechanics do on a daily basis.
I am just providing my own DIY to help forum members. If you dont agree with it then you may post your own version. This is my first chance to give back to the community.
auxmike
01-01-2009, 04:18 AM
I still don't recommend prying anything against a stamped steel backing plate.
I've done it in the past and bent the plate so it rubbed the drum casting. A real PITA to bend back in proper shape too.
Heck, I've seen drums on so tight they required a torch to CUT them off!:evil:
AlexNet0
01-01-2009, 04:25 AM
I guess I dont understand what this is supposed to do, tighten your rear brakes to take stress from the fronts?
auxmike
01-01-2009, 04:55 AM
I guess I dont understand what this is supposed to do, tighten your rear brakes to take stress from the fronts?
Yessir, distribute the weight so as to not prematurely wear out pads or warp rotors.
This can be tricky to do for a first timer. Don't screw around with brakes unless you are real confident about what you are getting into.
I did this procedure myself after noticing my handbrake lever going up real high when pulled. As he said, go from the FRONT to adjust not from the rubber plug in the back. That way you'll know right away if the shoes are too open since the drum won't slide on.
I used compressed air to remove all the dust eaisily without wetting anything at all. You should NOT use compressed air because that dust is BAD and gets into your nostrils real easy. I only did it because I was outside in the open air.
After the adjustment the brakes felt much better.
I know these cars are supposed to have self adjusting brakes, but I've yet to see one of those systems that works as allegedly designed without a little "help" from a screwdriver.....:iono:
AlexNet0
01-01-2009, 05:07 AM
I know these cars are supposed to have self adjusting brakes, but I've yet to see one of those systems that works as allegedly designed without a little "help" from a screwdriver.....
Okay, that clears it up, I replaced the pads on a friends civic, and it has the same 'type' of system and I adjusted from the back (PITA), but I never really understood what it did, I just did it untill it felt right.
SilverBack
01-03-2009, 05:37 PM
Good thread. But I'm suppose to re-adjust/re-tighten the e-brake today, so how exactly would I take off the the drum housing without bending it? And also, what's the best way to clean-off the brake dust without removing any important grease? Thanks.
AlexNet0
01-04-2009, 03:05 PM
I believe you can tighten just the e-brake inside the floor console between the seats under the brake handle.
jambo101
01-04-2009, 05:01 PM
I thought everything adjusts when you apply the brakes when backing up.
SilverBack
01-06-2009, 07:18 AM
This thread is golden. Just did mine over the weekend on my own with the help here. Thanks for starting this, YS:thumbsup:
YarisSedan
01-06-2009, 09:49 PM
This thread is golden. Just did mine over the weekend on my own with the help here. Thanks for starting this, YS:thumbsup:
Awsome. You should do this about every 6 months. Or whenever you rototate your tires. You will be amazed how much dust is in there every time you take the drum off.
SilverBack
01-07-2009, 08:41 PM
You will be amazed how much dust is in there every time you take the drum off.
Was more than amazed. This was one of jobs that ended with a shower...
YarisSedan
01-07-2009, 08:45 PM
Was more than amazed. This was one of jobs that ended with a shower...
LOL this is why all auto shops are required to have a osha approved brake cleaner system. Which is a big drum that wheels under the brakes and a long brush that has a solvent that comes out of it. So you can gently brush away the dust without it going all over the place like into your lungs.
SilverBack
01-11-2009, 02:32 AM
LOL this is why all auto shops are required to have a osha approved brake cleaner system. Which is a big drum that wheels under the brakes and a long brush that has a solvent that comes out of it. So you can gently brush away the dust without it going all over the place like into your lungs.
Now you tell me. Guess I wasted a wet face towel and a pair of goggles for nothing LOL
PenquinZ111
01-16-2009, 04:14 AM
a ez way to just adjust the rear drum is drive in reverse and then press on the brakes. then you might notice the parking brake will click less. down to 4.
jamal1984
01-16-2009, 07:03 PM
geez i wish i see this thread earlier so i don't have to pay Big 10 $40 bucks to adjust my handbrake, and clean my drums break... my hand brake now only click twice-max, i can't pull it up anymore. Before it's like 10 clicks.
yaris-me
04-13-2009, 02:54 AM
Sticky?:thumbsup:
drifto
04-28-2009, 07:57 PM
Good thread. But I'm suppose to re-adjust/re-tighten the e-brake today, so how exactly would I take off the the drum housing without bending it? And also, what's the best way to clean-off the brake dust without removing any important grease? Thanks.
there are if you notice two extra smaller holes in the face of the drum. they are threaded so you can use a bolt and tighten it inward against the hub to free the drum from the backing plate. as you tighten it the drum will slowly come off. this way your not prying anything at all. once its off, i personally use some "brakleen" type solution and spray off all the dust, except for the pad surfaces. dont get any solutions on the pads as they will swell or wear prematurely. as for the backing plate, pins, etc. i use some moly paste (molybdenum disulfide) to grease the backing plate areas where the shoes pivot and operate, as to prevent rust or binding. as before just dont get any grease on the pad surface or inner drum surface. and as a suggestion i also apply moly paste to the hub surface and in the center opening of the drum, this is usually where rust likes to live and grow and makes future removal a pain in the ass. the grease mentioned before is high temp rated and will prevent rust from building up in the area. well thats my 2 cents. hope this helps...
YarisSedan
04-29-2009, 12:12 AM
I do use the 2 smaller holes a lot of times when i have trouble removing brakes. Only thing is in the DIY i dont expect someone to have 2 spare bolts that are the correct size laying around. And usually if the drum is out of adjustment it should jsut come off very easily. Otherwise a large rubber mallet does wonders as well =).
As for lube if you have never done it before i dont reccomend it because if you get any on the brake pad it will create hotspots on the brake drum. Which is why i only reccomend water to clean out the dust cause any harsh chemical like brake cleaner has the possibility of removing the lube that is already there.
Although i use about 2 cans of brake cleaner on a daily basis. I always use brake clean to clean drums.
IllusionX
04-29-2009, 08:34 AM
yarissedan: good writeup, i think i'll do it this afternoon when i get home hehe.
btw, did you ever reedit your post?
just do it for twwards :P
IllusionX
04-29-2009, 01:44 PM
oh.. cleaned and adjusted the rear brakes. That was easy. Handbrake pulls ~5 clicks now :)
All i have to do next is fix the front calipers... take them apart, turn the discs, lub the calipers and put everything back...
robkay
06-05-2009, 12:05 PM
Very nice DIY. Thanks for the effort you went to!
blackgenius007
07-27-2009, 09:24 PM
Did it on yesterday, it was so exhausted man..haha.. Well now my e-brake only need 3-clicks but I have found my car now have more friction, engine performance dropped, means need more acceleration to move the car. Is that because the brake adjustment makes the car more frictions?
I have double checked the brake shoes have not rubbed with the drum after it adjusted, and the drum on both side with no overheating or burn smell after a day of driving..
pbucha
08-08-2009, 11:15 AM
Just performed this procedure. A rubber mallet works well to loosen the drum without any damage to the drum or backing plate. The primary objective is to loosen the light rust bond between the axle and center of the drum.
toast
08-08-2009, 12:47 PM
Just wondering does anyone have the size for those "little bolts" to drive the drum off? I've always used the rubber mallet in the past but just wondering.
PaddyMac
08-08-2009, 04:36 PM
You can apply some hi temp grease where the hub and drum meet that will make taking apart much easier the next time
1stToyota
08-08-2009, 04:47 PM
Just wondering does anyone have the size for those "little bolts" to drive the drum off? I've always used the rubber mallet in the past but just wondering.
Don't quote me, but seems like the size I usually use is 8mm x 1.25
PhilD424
09-01-2009, 02:06 AM
There are a few parts that are missing to this. When you adjust the brakes you're going to want to take out the actual adjuster and clean that with brake cleaner because alot of gunk builds up on it aswell. When you do this, it will free up the self adjusting process and when you back up and stomp on the brakes it will work to some extent. This doesn't have to be done, but its a good thing to do and only will take like 2 extra mins to clean up the adjuster.
hafeez
09-06-2009, 10:41 PM
how often do you need to change brake shoes?
othater
10-18-2009, 01:55 PM
YarisSedan...What happen to the pictures? Was going to do this today. Can you please repost. Thanks.
Got it done. Thanks
YarisSedan
11-16-2009, 05:36 PM
If anyone happens to have images for this in thier cache still could you please email them to me at jasonlabar@gmail.com I switch servers for my web hosting and forgot to save some of the files. So all the files got whiped.
enobmort42
11-16-2009, 06:03 PM
i'd also be interested in the diy! maybe this could be inducted into an updated one of these? http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3113
YarisSedan
11-16-2009, 06:07 PM
Well there were pictures up unfortunately they are lost thats why im hoping someone might have viewed it and still ahve images in thier cache before i changed server hosts. Otherwise i might have to redo the diy and take new pictures all over again.
YarisSedan
11-26-2009, 12:51 AM
Okay i found the pics so everything is relinked and back up now.
rningonfumes
04-15-2010, 04:11 PM
Hey, Thanks for the write up. Just did it yesterday and you're right, the braking is entirely better.
skoolafish
08-05-2010, 02:34 PM
i just had a 27 point inspection or something at a toyota dealer
they told me my rear brakes were out of alignment, and explained it like my brakes were not expanding enough to grab the sides of a bowl or something...
is this what i need to do to fix that?
TickleTimeTim
02-19-2011, 04:27 PM
HELP HELP HELP. in middle of doing this, only have 30 mins til i gotta be somewhere. i CAN NOT get off the brake drum. i see im slightly bending the backing plate when i try the screw driver method. any help??!!?
rningonfumes
02-20-2011, 05:22 AM
^I guess it's too late but... 1. Parking brakes off. 2. Whack it with hammer or mallet a few times. or.. 3. do the appropriate bolt size into the hole to force it off that way.
I just whack it with a hammer.
bankrobber
02-20-2011, 08:24 PM
Best way is using the bolts to ease it off 10 MM if I remember correct. I bent the crap out of my backing plate before trying the bolts.
TickleTimeTim
02-21-2011, 05:01 PM
thanks for clarifying the size of the bolts, i had a box of screws (including wood screws-i got desperate) but didn't have the right size and gave up. i tried to go through the rubber plug that everyone suggested not to go through (once again, desperate) but i had no idea what i was doing. guess ill go to hardware store, pick up 2 10mm bolts and try again next weekend. thank you
bronsin
02-22-2011, 07:28 AM
arent these brakes self adjusting? Dont they adjust when you back up? Or doesnt that setup work after a while?
rningonfumes
02-22-2011, 10:42 AM
Yes, they adjust as you back up. The adjustment allows you to apply the same amount of distance in the foot. The problem lies in the the cable/hand brake. I don't know the reason for this but you still have to adjust it every-so often in order to tighten that up. It is important to note that you should adjust at the brakes first, then see about tightening at the base of the hand brake.
746watts
02-22-2011, 04:27 PM
Thanks YarisSedan, I am soon going to be replacing my shoes which have 135,000kms on them. Knowledge sharing is appreciated.
Okay, did my oil & filter change this evening and checked the drums while I was at it........... new shoes have 4.6mm of braking material and the shoes after 135,000kms have 3.6mm of brake material left. So I'll leave them in for another 1mm of wear I reckon.
xhifer
04-11-2012, 11:41 AM
Sorry for the bump. But OP can you please relink the pics? Thanks
NEexpat
09-19-2012, 04:05 PM
Ok, I am not seeing these pics.
Is it just me or are they gone? If they are gone from this thread does anybody have them?
Thanks.
YarisSedan
10-12-2012, 11:46 PM
Sorry guys the account I used for Web hosting closed so some pictures are lost I have to adjust my rear brakes again soon so ill try to put some new pics up and put them on photo bucket with a link
NEexpat
10-13-2012, 08:50 AM
^Thanks.
Been wanting to do this.
cheers
nookandcrannycar
10-15-2012, 03:36 PM
Well there were pictures up unfortunately they are lost thats why im hoping someone might have viewed it and still ahve images in thier cache before i changed server hosts. Otherwise i might have to redo the diy and take new pictures all over again.
I had both on my car done about 23k miles ago (so I probably won't need to again for quite a while) and I paid only a little bit less than Jamal1984 did. The pictures will help more than a few people whenever you are able to get pics to display and all will appreciate your gesture.
frog13
01-30-2013, 04:09 PM
Yes,if someone could repost the pics, that would be a great help.So, you adjust the drum first,then adjust the parking brake?.Now the adjustment for the parking brake lever.....is this a different procedure? or is the lever adjusted when the drum brakes are adjusted/taken-up?.
Yarflana
02-02-2013, 05:44 PM
At the end of all this, sounds better to service the entire rear brake assembly at one time vs. cleaning and messing with all the dust to just adjust the parking brake. I know it is rather comforting to have it adjusted where you only have to pull a couple clicks, but it doesn't hurt to have to pull it a few more clicks until you can get around to an entire "drum rotating, shoe changing, assembly cleaning" service.
Honestly, I wouldn't worry about cleaning it much if all I was doing was adjusting the parking brake. Likely not the best way to go, but cannot make it any worse than before getting in there.
Overall, however, thanks for the DIY. I know it takes a lot of effort to take pics and upload all those instructions.
nookandcrannycar
02-02-2013, 07:27 PM
At the end of all this, sounds better to service the entire rear brake assembly at one time vs. cleaning and messing with all the dust to just adjust the parking brake. I know it is rather comforting to have it adjusted where you only have to pull a couple clicks, but it doesn't hurt to have to pull it a few more clicks until you can get around to an entire "drum rotating, shoe changing, assembly cleaning" service.
Honestly, I wouldn't worry about cleaning it much if all I was doing was adjusting the parking brake. Likely not the best way to go, but cannot make it any worse than before getting in there.
Overall, however, thanks for the DIY. I know it takes a lot of effort to take pics and upload all those instructions.
I didn't like the sound coming from that area. The sound motivated me to have it checked. The local shop I went to (not a dealer) cleaned out all the dust and serviced the cable (I thought the sound might be signaling something more extensive). When I left, the cable was as tight as when the car was new and the sound that had motivated me to take the car in was gone. The miniscule cost was worth it to me. My brakes continue to work as new, had only 20% wear at approximately 208,000 miles, and I've never done anything else to the brakes (front or rear). Might not be what works for others, but has worked for me. Just my 2 cents :smile:.
frog13
05-18-2013, 10:57 PM
Sorry guys the account I used for Web hosting closed so some pictures are lost I have to adjust my rear brakes again soon so ill try to put some new pics up and put them on photo bucket with a link
Any photos yet yaris sedan??. TIA:smile:
auxmike
05-18-2013, 11:16 PM
I just did mine two weeks ago. Like 7-8 clicks per side. You'll notice the handbrake lever will go up less clicks after adjusting too. I always clean and blow out all the dust in there with my air compressor *outside* only.
frog13
05-19-2013, 08:34 PM
I just did mine two weeks ago. Like 7-8 clicks per side. You'll notice the handbrake lever will go up less clicks after adjusting too. I always clean and blow out all the dust in there with my air compressor *outside* only.
Are you advising to make adjustments through the rubber plug on the inboard side of the drum ?.
YarisSedan
05-19-2013, 09:23 PM
Are you advising to make adjustments through the rubber plug on the inboard side of the drum ?.
You can do it that way but you have to be careful not to overadjust them removing the drum is the best way because you can clean out all the dust I adjust mine every six months and it ensures even brake wear my front brakes are at 80 percent life after close to 60k miles
frog13
05-30-2013, 10:35 PM
To clean out brake dust,do you spray the interior with brake cleaner?... (I know that cleaner is quite harsh,but....). TIA
auxmike
05-30-2013, 10:45 PM
I use compressed air. Only do this outside, that dust is bad stuff.... That spray isn't heathy either and makes a drippy mess..
Yaross
06-05-2013, 04:03 AM
Will it be equally bad to cleanout brake dust if one use vacuum cleaner instead of compressed air?
esse10
06-05-2013, 03:00 PM
a ez way to just adjust the rear drum is drive in reverse and then press on the brakes. then you might notice the parking brake will click less. down to 4.
Hey does this actually work? anybody tried it already? How fast do you go? how far? how hard do you apply the brakes?
frog13
07-09-2013, 07:03 PM
http://www.jasonlabar.com/step1.jpg
Make sure you have all the proper tools before you start. You can use your lug nut removal tool and floor jack
that came with your car but it makes more hassle removing everything from your car and putting it back plus its not
as efficient as using a real floor jack and breaker bar.
Now that you have all your tools park your car on the most level surface you can find and leave the parking brake
off.
http://www.jasonlabar.com/step2.jpg
Position the floor jack directly under the lift point. If you look under the car you will see 2 notches where the
jack can sit securely.
http://www.jasonlabar.com/step3.jpg
Jack up the rear of the car whichever side you decide you want to start first. Make sure the tire is not completely
off the ground as the tire will spin when you try to remove the lug nuts.
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv257/jasonlabar/step4.jpg
Using your breaking bar and socket turn it counter clock ways with a jerking motion and spin it about a full 360 turn
to make sure they are properly loose. Once this is done now you can jack up the car till the wheel is about 1 inch
off the ground.
http://www.jasonlabar.com/step5.jpg
Now that the wheel is off you may have trouble removing the drum. This is where the screwdriver comes in. You can
utilize the 2 screw holes and insert 2 bolts and ratchet them in till the drum pops off. More than likely though
since the drum is loose and you are going to make it tighter this should not be necessary. Just take your
screwdriver and insert it in between the drum and backing plate and twist and it should pop off. If it dose not come
off try in opposing sides slowly till it comes out.
http://www.jasonlabar.com/step6.jpg
Once the drum is removed clean out all the dust inside the drum and wash out dust on your brake parts with plain
water from a garden hose or spray bottle. I don't recommend any chemical cleaners as it will clean off the
lubrication grease between the backing plate and brake shoe and to re lube it will require another DIY. Simple water
and letting it air dry will suffice. Once everything has dried put the drum bake on securely and rotate it
clockwise. It should spin approx 360 degrees and stop. The more rotations will help you gage how much you will
need to adjust it till it rotates only 360.
http://www.jasonlabar.com/step7.jpg
Now locate the star wheel. It is at the upper portion right below the wheel cylinder. Take your screwdriver again
and push it forward toward the backing plate 2 clicks. Put the drum back on and spin it. Take it off and adjust 2
clicks more. Keep doing this till you get satisfactory results. Perfect adjustment you should hear the brake shoe
ever so slightly rubbing against the inside of the drum as you spin it and it should fall short of a full spin.
Once you get this result you are done.
Put the drum back on and the wheel back in place. Screw on all the lug nuts hand tight. Then while the wheel is
off the ground still take your breaker bar and jerk it clockwise while holding the wheel. Making sure they are
decently snug. Then lower the vehicle down and use your torque wrench and torque all 4 nuts down to 76ft pounds.
Repeat same procedure on the other wheel. Once you are done test your parking brake. It should feel firm and go
up about 3 clicks. Now go out and enjoy your better feeling brake pedal, decreased stopping distance and properly
operating parking brake.
Unable to view photo's?.
MickZEL
07-10-2013, 07:53 AM
To remove the brake drums fit the bolts on the hood mounting
frog13
07-16-2013, 06:09 PM
To remove the brake drums fit the bolts on the hood mounting
??????????????:iono:
frog13
07-17-2013, 07:12 PM
To remove the brake drums fit the bolts on the hood mounting
"fit the bolts on the hood mounting"........any explanation?.
Maranda
02-12-2015, 09:09 AM
I can't see pictures of this nice DIY.
manborn
02-12-2015, 09:50 AM
I think its because it super old. Happened to diy squeek fix for engine mount by engine bay also.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
thetut
02-12-2015, 02:42 PM
To remove the brake drums fit the bolts on the hood mounting
I think he means you can use two of the hood mounting bolts if you do not have the right size on hand.
Gpav6
03-07-2015, 07:05 PM
Pics not showing up? Any chance someone can reupload?
SeattleCommuter
07-11-2016, 04:02 AM
I wrote the updated instructions below based on YarisSedan's original instructions and feedback from the community.
Remove the tire
If you're not sure how to do this, read How to change a tire (http://www.wikihow.com/Change-a-Tire) first.
If the tire is stuck to brake drum, hit the tire with a rubber mallet on alternating sides until it separates from the brake drum.
Remove brake drum
Make sure car is in Park (automatic) or in 1st gear (manual) and parking brake is released (down position).
CAUTION! To avoid inhalation of brake dust which is hazardous to your health, it is recommended to put on a dust mask before removing the drum.
Pull the brake drum outward towards you.
WARNING! Don't take your screwdriver and insert it in between the drum and backing plate and twist. The backing plate bends easily and can rub against wheel.
If the drum is stuck to backing plate, you can utilize the 2 screw holes and insert 2 bolts and ratchet them in till the drum pops off. (You can use bolts from the hinge of the engine hood.) A rubber mallet also works well to loosen the drum without any damage to the drum or backing plate.
http://i.imgur.com/axRksc3.jpg
Wipe off brake dust
Once the drum is removed, gently wipe the dust off the brake parts with plain water. Chemical cleaners aren't recommended as it will remove the lubrication grease that's needed.
Check the wheel cylinder for hydraulic leaks. If you notice fluid inside the drum or on the brake shoes, get your car inspected by a mechanic. A leak in the hydraulic system, may result in decreased brake performance.
Adjust star wheel
Now locate the adjuster star wheel. It is at the upper portion right below the wheel cylinder. Take your screwdriver again and push it forward toward the backing plate 2 clicks. The star wheel ratchets and turns only in one direction unless the metal tab is pushed in. Test your parking brake. It should feel firm and go up about 3 or 4 clicks. If it goes up more, put the drum back on and try to spin it. It it spins freely, take the drum off and adjust the star wheel 2 more clicks.
Keep doing this till you get satisfactory results. Perfect adjustment you should hear the brake shoe ever so slightly rubbing against the inside of the drum as you spin it and it should fall short of a full spin.
http://i.imgur.com/PwrILl4.jpg
Put tire back on the car
If you're not sure how to do this, read How to change a tire (http://www.wikihow.com/Change-a-Tire) first.
Use a torque wrench and torque all 4 lug nuts to 80 ft-pounds.
Testing parking brake
Your parking brake should feel firm and go up about 3 clicks. Now go out and enjoy your better feeling brake pedal, decreased stopping distance and properly operating parking brake.
Video
I found this YouTube video helpful: Adjusting the star wheel (https://youtu.be/wOdQqAw8q2k?t=12m55s) - Adjust in opposite direction from the video to tighten
Diagram
http://i.imgur.com/2icf8rQ.jpg
THEWISEONE
08-03-2016, 04:39 PM
Excellent! this is exactly how we do it at our Toyota dealership. The instructions applies to all model toyotas with drum brakes. We use a soapy water mixture to clean the dust off the brake components.No brake cleaner because it disolve the grease on the backing plate like the original poster mentioned.
Sceadufaex83
03-11-2017, 06:03 PM
Hey all. I did my drums on the 07 Yaris. Everything brand new. Now there is a weird slapping. Any ideas.
Sceadufaex83
03-11-2017, 06:05 PM
I did the rear drums on my 07 Yaris, with all brand new equipment. Drums, shoes, springs etc. Greased the contact points, put back together the way it should be. Now there is a weird slapping when I apply the brakes. Any ideas. Thank you.:confused:
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