0-60 type mods

[rkvin21]

I originally bought a yaris to learn how to drive a manual so I can get a new 2010 camaro ss manual. Now that I have learned and driven, it I love it. The problem is I just wanna go quicker. Right now I have a TRD quickshifter and an AEM CAI. Toyota installed the quickshifter and I talked them into reducing the timed charged. I installed the AEM CAI myself(this is the only thing I have ever done to a car besides changing an air filter) and it only took me 1hr 10min. The quickshifter is fun and I love the CAI but I still want more lol. I don't care how fast it can go...yet. I just want to go from 0 to speed limit(well 5 over:smile: lol) as fast as possible. I've been thinking about a t/c or s/c to really get it done. I plan on getting NST pulleys but need to decide whether to get a t/c or s/c to choose either the underdrive or normal. So which will give me the best 0-60? a t/c or a s/c? Also what other mods could I do to increase my acceleration. Right now i'm at approx 9 second from 0-60. I do definitely less than 10 sec now. :burnrubber:

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Well, keep in mind that turbo's will have turbo lag, unless you go with a tiny turbo. I believe s/c's will have a more "instant" power. Personally, I don't like the sound of s/c's and prefer turbo's.

[rkvin21]

I know about turbo lag. From what I have read you get the opposite with a supercharger once you reach higher rpms. Also what I have read is that it is possible to reduce your 0-60 by 1/3 with a properly tuned turbo. So far I am not happy from what I have seen/read about using a s/c but the same goes with a t/c as well. I originally wanted a supercharger for that low-end torque but after doing alot of reading(my head is about to explode now! lol) i am leaning towards a t/c. I don't really have a problem with down shifting since it takes less than a second with my quickshifter. I just would like to know which would be better to meet my needs. Once I decide I can start adding my other mods in preparation for the the big jump. No pun intended lol.

P.S. My goal is to beat my co-workers stock mustang GT from a red light to the speed limit +5. So far I have beaten him a couple of times but I know he isn't trying yet. one day we are going to head to the track and really take off.

[pinoypizzaboy]

2010 camaro ss. Thats definitely gonna beat ur buddys mustang :)

[Kaotic Lazagna]

hmmmm, if you can't wait for a production turbo kit, then your best bet would be a Blitz s/c. As for me, I'll stick to turbo's. I don't really like the parasitic loss that comes with s/c's. I just want some extra power and torque since I carpool a lot, and when the a/c is requested, I really have to mash on the gas more to keep going. :frown:

How about weight-saving mods? If you don't really use your interior much, take out all the seats (except for the driver's seat :tongue:), remove all carpet and sound deadening material. I'd keep the a/c, especially since you're in AZ. Power steering also robs some power, plus will save you weight when removed. Remove the spare and tools (get AAA and a cell phone, not only will this better the power to weight ratio, it'll better your gas mileage). Get some lighter rims and tires. And if you want, get a lightened flywheel.

[rkvin21]

Well duh! its an extra 122 hp. I am totally test driving it once it comes out. Unfortunately the camaro is slowly rolling away unless I find a better job. I enjoy my yaris and want to keep it so then I would have to make both payments + insurance lol. btw i'm talking about beating his mustang in my yaris :burnrubber:

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Well duh! its an extra 122 hp. I am totally test driving it once it comes out. Unfortunately the camaro is slowly rolling away unless I find a better job. I enjoy my yaris and want to keep it so then I would have to make both payments + insurance lol. btw i'm talking about beating his mustang in my yaris :burnrubber:

LOL...in the mean time, hire a hot import model in a bikini, and the next time you guys do a race, have her stand next to his Mustang. Distraction is key :laugh::laugh::laugh:

[rkvin21]

I was actually thinking about more of a custom turbo system if that is what I decided. I would like to put it all together myself. I have a welder if needed and am quite mechanically inclined in case you couldn't tell from my first mod by myself. Also is there much of an advantage using the 10% underdrive pulley vs normal? Also it is said that you don't want to use the underdrive for s/c, but t/c's are ok. Is that true? I have thought about weight reduction and I have both AAA and a cell phone lol. I do need my seats though lol. I have a gf believe it or not. I was thinking about maybe a lighter shifter knob, lightweight racing seats, and a lighter steering wheel.

[rkvin21]

actually its easier just to send a txt at the red light.Its cheaper lol. I really smoked him with that one. Btw I didn't send him the txt he just happened to receive one at that time.

[ztrack157]

hmmmm, if you can't wait for a production turbo kit, then your best bet would be a Blitz s/c. As for me, I'll stick to turbo's. I don't really like the parasitic loss that comes with s/c's. I just want some extra power and torque since I carpool a lot, and when the a/c is requested, I really have to mash on the gas more to keep going. :frown:

How about weight-saving mods? If you don't really use your interior much, take out all the seats (except for the driver's seat :tongue:), remove all carpet and sound deadening material. I'd keep the a/c, especially since you're in AZ. Power steering also robs some power, plus will save you weight when removed. Remove the spare and tools (get AAA and a cell phone, not only will this better the power to weight ratio, it'll better your gas mileage). Get some lighter rims and tires. And if you want, get a lightened flywheel.

Um last time I check the yaris had electronic steering.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Um last time I check the yaris had electronic steering.

Woops. My bad. You're right. :redface:

[Kaotic Lazagna]

I was actually thinking about more of a custom turbo system if that is what I decided. I would like to put it all together myself. I have a welder if needed and am quite mechanically inclined in case you couldn't tell from my first mod by myself. Also is there much of an advantage using the 10% underdrive pulley vs normal? Also it is said that you don't want to use the underdrive for s/c, but t/c's are ok. Is that true? I have thought about weight reduction and I have both AAA and a cell phone lol. I do need my seats though lol. I have a gf believe it or not. I was thinking about maybe a lighter shifter knob, lightweight racing seats, and a lighter steering wheel.

I haven't had the time nor the money to look into the more performance inclined mods yet, so I really don't know much about the underdrive pulley. I just know that it'll yield a little more power than stock and NST's CR-Lite pulley.

:laugh: about the text comment. Ok, keep the front passenger seat for some action when needed. A weighted knob is actually better than a lightened knob. They're friggin expensive tho. You can always remove the aforementioned carpet and sound-deadening material if you can't remove the seats. Any way you can custom make CF parts? Damn, wish I knew how to weld and had a welder.

[saplaymate]

Pull all the extra weight out and get a limited slip & good tires.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Also, as you may have been reading, turbo'ing the Yaris is not that easy. Garm almost has it down tho.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Pull all the extra weight out and get a limited slip & good tires.

Good call on the LSD, completely slipped my mind. I believe Garm sells those too.

[rkvin21]

ya totally forgot about the LSD. It's on my list lol. I got my CAI from Garm before I joined. They got really good prices and I got it pretty quick since I ordered it just before christmas lol. If I can verify that a underdive does better than the light and that a t/c would work with it i'll go turbo.

Btw I need more than just the passanger seat:wink: lol. no i'm not big. i'm 5'6" 122lbs pure muscle. Well almost pure I only bench 185 and deadlift 295 lol. I sink in water. No she's not big either lol, same size.

[saplaymate]

Stop it your impressing yourself !

[Kaotic Lazagna]

ya totally forgot about the LSD. It's on my list lol. I got my CAI from Garm before I joined. They got really good prices and I got it pretty quick since I ordered it just before christmas lol. If I can verify that a underdive does better than the light and that a t/c would work with it i'll go turbo.

Btw I need more than just the passanger seat:wink: lol. no i'm not big. i'm 5'6" 122lbs pure muscle. Well almost pure I only bench 185 and deadlift 295 lol. I sink in water. No she's not big either lol, same size.

hahahahahaha. I don't really have the time to work out, but since I'm on break, I'm at the gym every chance I can get.

But yeah, I believe Richard H. has some dyno slips of the underdrive pulleys.

[rkvin21]

lol sorry didn't mean to. what are you driving that gets 0-60 in 3 shifts. I use 1st and 2nd for my 0-60.at 61 i'm in 3rd lol

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Here it is. http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10837&highlight=underdrive

[rkvin21]

thanx for helping find it. I was just looking for it lol. Ok i'm sold with the underdrive pulley. I just ordered it. even though I probably shouldn't have. I guess i'm going turbo then. Does anyone know what psi I should look into to get the best 0-60 times?

[pinoypizzaboy]

garm has a thread here with 0-60 on a dyno. I believe hes runing 8 pounds

[Ryu]

If you only want better 0-60 times, very light wheel should be on your list.
Light wheel + tons of performance mod = lot of speed from the start for this car.

[rkvin21]

ya I saw the video. I didn't think it was that much of an improvement. But it might have just been a lil bit of poor shifting in the beginning which I think he admitted to. I'm looking on to see what I need but its alot of math lol and hard info to find online for the yaris EXACT specifics

[Kaotic Lazagna]

ya I saw the video. I didn't think it was that much of an improvement. But it might have just been a lil bit of poor shifting in the beginning which I think he admitted to. I'm looking on to see what I need but its alot of math lol and hard info to find online for the yaris EXACT specifics

What specifics are you looking for?

[Kaotic Lazagna]

No clue how old this chart is, but it may be of use as a reference:
http://www.prolepsis.net/carstuff/wheelweights.pdf

[cali yaris]

ya I saw the video. I didn't think it was that much of an improvement.

LOL, it was.

My goal is to beat my co-workers stock mustang GT from a red light to the speed limit +5

Hard to beat RWD without the LSD in your car.

Has anyone asked you what tires you have on your car?
Sticky tires would be critical in short race/hard launch conditions.

[cleong]

DIY turbos are definitely not the sort of thing that a mechanically inclined guy who knows a welder should try to do when the only thing he's ever done for himself on his car is to change the air filter. Its more than just pipework. If only it were that simple!

I think you need to set yourself a budget, and also ask yourself whether it is wise to spend so much money trying to beat a Mustang GT at the stoplights. It'd go nowhere - when your coworker finally gets beaten by you in your modified Yaris, his Mustang isn't likely to stay stock for much longer either.

[cali yaris]

Mustang GT + Vortech S/C = FEAR

[saplaymate]

Buy a sport bike, It will beat the stang and probably be cheaper !

[rkvin21]

Right now everything is stock except for the quickshifter and CAI. Btw I installed my CAI as well thank you very much. Well I guess just changing my air filter is a lil exaggeration but it was the only thing I had done by myself. My first car was an 85 buick skylark that I got for 400. I definatley needed work. My dad was the one who helped me fix it up till I blew a rod in the engine. Had replaced the rack and pinion, heater core, radiator, new push rods and lifters, full tune up with spark plugs, distributor cap, and spark plug wires(total=$1000:frown: = time for new car. Well he did most of the work while I watched. Oh I just remembered that I changed my ignition coil(not very hard btw) in my 96 avalon(next car).

actually he wants a kenne bell s/c lol. But his payments on his car are outrageous(he only put 500 down) and he has a couple years left. Also he wants a body kit first before any performance mods.

I tried riding a bike. Even aced the permit test. problem is that i started to learn on an 800 on dirt road with a lil hill. I dumped it 3 times within 3 min and gave up. lol

[Tamago]

so what was the question again? or was this just an attn thread...

btw i'm around 6seconds 0-60 on about 9-10lbs boost

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_ECRZWw9ek

[rkvin21]

now that looked nice. ur car has the same engine right? my general question is what type of mods will help me increase my 0-60 time. More specifically I asking for help in deciding whether to use a t/c or s/c to determine the mods suitable. I have now decided on a t/c. Also what kind of headers would be a good choice to use with a t/c if any? What is the setup for your t/c? Is it a built-in intercooler or remote? Also what size wastegate? Those questions are for anyone who has a t/c.

so far my list is as follows:

quickshifter (installed)
AEM CAI (installed)
10% underdrive NST Pulley(ordered)
Kaaz LSD
lighter wheels and slick tires
removing unused parts from car
t/c
custom exhaust system(type and design determined by t/c)
headers(maybe?)

[Tamago]

Also what kind of headers would be a good choice to use with a t/c if any? What is the setup for your t/c? Is it a built-in intercooler or remote? Also what size wastegate? Those questions are for anyone who has a t/c.


i'm running a VF39 from a Subaru Impreza STI, all custom everything (turbo is top-mounted above the valve cover) and using a small but thick Saab side-mount intercooler mounted under the hood and fed with a NACA style duct.

the wastegate is internal to the VF39 and is "set" at 8psi (for an STI) but i see 9-10psi on it

if you want to go faster in 0-60 only i recommend nitrous.. $500 and an afternoon and you'll be done. i have over a year of blood sweat, swearwords, cut/burned bodyparts and hundreds of hours of just pure headache in my turbo setup. granted, i'm sure the Yaris world will have a plug n play kit very soon so you wont' have to deal with what i dealt with.

budget $8000 for a nice kit and all the gauges/safety precautions you should take to make it a reliable daily driver.

[thebarber]

stiff springs (at least rears) are helpful for launching a fwd car....

[rkvin21]

I have managed to piece together some turbo parts that might work. please let me know if i'm missing something.

Garret turbo GT1548 or GT2052
Garret intercooler p/n 703518-6015
Garret blow-off valve p/n 714341-0002
tC injectores (550cc?)
DC headers?

I have read that most turbo kits come with new headers. Should I use DC headers, some other perfomance header, or just stick with stock(i doubt it lol)?. I feel like i'm missing something so please let me know

[thebarber]

I have managed to piece together some turbo parts that might work. please let me know if i'm missing something.

Garret turbo GT1548 or GT2052
Garret intercooler p/n 703518-6015
Garret blow-off valve p/n 714341-0002
tC injectores (550cc?)
DC headers?

I have read that most turbo kits come with new headers. Should I use DC headers, some other perfomance header, or just stick with stock(i doubt it lol)?. I feel like i'm missing something so please let me know

dont know about headers w/ a turbo? should you be turboing your car?!

[rkvin21]

well t/c will probably be the last thing I do to my car but ya. I want to accelerate as fast as possible till I have to let off the gas for the speed limit. I'm starting with the small stuff then working my way up but I need to know my end result so I can choose my parts wisely.

[cali yaris]

Also what kind of headers would be a good choice to use with a t/c if any?

oh boy

[rkvin21]

too small? lol. well ironically they give diameter and A/R specifics but I don't know how to read those yet. they list displacement and Hp. are these numbers after it is installed or before?

Is anybody going to actually answer my question on headers or do I have to say intake manifold? lol

[thebarber]

Is anybody going to actually answer my question on headers or do I have to say intake manifold? lol

the header, or exhaust manifold on a turbo car is often custom and thus replaces the normal header.

my earlier comment was based on the fact that you started buying stuff but dont really seem to know how a turbo works.

and not to get into it, but a turbo sits on the exhaust manifold, the exhaust gas spins the turbo which is connected to the intake air on the other side compressing it to a given compression (psi).

and i dont want to be a dink, but maybe you ought to check out howitworks.com or wikipedia or google some turbo info before carrying on. im not sure you have an accurate scope of how big of a project doing a custom turbo setup is...

[Morgan]

*watching*

[thebarber]

*watching*

lol, you know you can subscribe at the top of the thread, right?

[Tamago]

P.S. My co-worker and I just went to the light to take off after work. He obviously smoked me by a car length this time but he cheated with a rolling start while I was at a dead stop.

he obviously wasn't racing you buddy...

[hatchbackkid82]

Your gonna need A LOT:eyebulge: of work done to the Yaris to beat the Mustang... the new one's run mid to high 13's:burnrubber:

[rkvin21]

he obviously wasn't racing you buddy...

What do you mean? Him doing a rolling start? or me being behind by a car length? Also I don't think he knows how to fully use his car yet. I could be wrong. He has been driving a manual longer than I have (5 years vs 6 months) and he still has hard shifts.

Your gonna need A LOT of work done to the Yaris to beat the Mustang... the new one's run mid to high 13's

IK its gonna take alot of work but I like to have goals and this is a pretty big one. Oh and by the way i'm talking about 0-60 not 1/4 mile lol

[Tamago]

IK its gonna take alot of work but I like to have goals and this is a pretty big one. Oh and by the way i'm talking about 0-60 not 1/4 mile lol

2008 mustang GT 0-60.. 5.2 seconds..

me on 10lbs of boost (just about all the stock rods will handle) 6 seconds...


so be prepared to build yourself a complete engine.. rods, pistons, valvtrain, get that head looked at, might as well Balance the rotating parts..

remember my $8000 budget?

make it $10000



or you could buy a Fbody mustang for $4000, put about $2000 in it and run 10's...

wait i mean... 0-60 in mid 4second range

[rkvin21]

well I don't like fords lol. plus why would I want the same thing as him even though it looks different. I want to be different! Also I doubt he can get 5.2 sec like it can. Again like I mentioned all these mods will be less than the cost of the new 2010 Camaro that I want with a trade in. I like this car and want to keep it. I want to get the most out of this car as I can safely. I'm still learning. I'm a computer geek that wants to work on his car go figure lol.

[rkvin21]

For light weight wheels is 13-15lbs good? Also would it be beneficial to have all slicks or just slicks in the front? Is 205/50-15 good for tire size? is 225/50-15 to big? Thanx

[Tamago]

For light weight wheels is 13-15lbs good? Also would it be beneficial to have all slicks or just slicks in the front? Is 205/50-15 good for tire size? is 225/50-15 to big? Thanx

no reason to put slicks on a ground pounding 95whp lol (at best)

just give up on making your yaris a race car..

oh and for a 15X7 don't settle for anything heavier than 13 lbs..

[TheSilkySmooth]

well I don't like fords lol. plus why would I want the same thing as him even though it looks different. I want to be different! Also I doubt he can get 5.2 sec like it can. Again like I mentioned all these mods will be less than the cost of the new 2010 Camaro that I want with a trade in. I like this car and want to keep it. I want to get the most out of this car as I can safely. I'm still learning. I'm a computer geek that wants to work on his car go figure lol. Use 14 wheels ( 185-55 r-14 will shave almost a sec off your 0-60 RIGHT NOW. oR if you want stockers got to 40 series 15's. Cheapest go fast mod other than cutting a big slot in the bottom of the stock airbox. The shorter "effective" final drive ratio allow the motor to spin up faster and puts less strain on timing advance - so engine will "supertune" itself in a week or so. Not everyones a PRO drag racer, so If you catch someone sleeping, or, If they're sloppy drivers, you can smoke 'em. A NORMAL person driving a pony car would get to sixty in maybe 7 secs on a stick car. I've drive with a lot of people and only maybe 2-5 % can really drive. The bro

[ZING]

Anyways, just a side question. What is the average cost of a Mustang GT '09 in the states now?

[KCALB SIRAY]

^ It was name calling was it? I actually re-read all the posts looking if he actually mentioned it somewhere..-_-


Anyways, just a side question. What is the average cost of a Mustang GT '09 in the states now?
MSRP: $29,160

[ZING]

^ That's roughly the price they told me I would have to pay if I wanted to import a Yaris TS to Lebanon. Thanks.

[eTiMaGo]

The "troll" just bought a set of pulleys, so before you all go off flaming the crap out of him (which you already did), maybe CONSIDER that he's trying to get educated, wants his car to be faster, and isn't just trying to get a rise out of you.

"peg leg"? wow.

No grace at all - if this board turns into another ScionLife, I'm out.

yeah guys, there's no proof at all that this guy is who you think he is, so let's all chill out, ok?

[rkvin21]

yeah guys, there's no proof at all that this guy is who you think he is, so let's all chill out, ok?

Thank you

Use 14 wheels ( 185-55 r-14 will shave almost a sec off your 0-60 RIGHT NOW.
After doing research on this theory. It is not necessarily the size of the wheels that makes the car quicker but the ratio of the tire ie 185/60 vs 185/50 the 50 being quicker. Although if you do keep the same ratio of the same width but drop size you theoretically will but just by dropping the ratio by 10 will improve more revs per mile. Also what I have learned about doing this mod to get quicker will reduce your top speed also affecting your accuracy of your speedometer. This is the Calculator (http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos) I used.

I just got my pulleys in the mail(a slip anyways). The lazy....ya..... didn't even come to my house to do a deleivery and just put the slip in my mailbox. So tomorrow i'm gonna pick them up. Don't know when i'll get to install it but i'll let you guys know what I think when I do. Thanks Garm! :biggrin:

[Tamago]

if you go with too small of a tire, you'll now have to shift into third to hit TRUE 60mph lol... which means you're now slower

[Thej3sta2]

intake mani, supercharger, underdive pulleys, light weight wheels, or you could just spend a couple grand on a 3sgt and try to retro fit it.

[Thej3sta2]

when me and sabretooth swapped back seats there was a bar that was seprate from the seat that held the seat to the chassi. We were wonder if Someone were to leave that bar there, Would it assist with the suspension?

[Tamago]

when me and sabretooth swapped back seats there was a bar that was seprate from the seat that held the seat to the chassi. We were wonder if Someone were to leave that bar there, Would it assist with the suspension?

no, it doesn't directly bolt to anything that counts.. but it makes an EXCELLENT place to mount a racing harness :D

as far as the 3SGTE swap... it'll make you a very fast car.. that's still WRONG WHEEL DRIVE and very heavy, won't handle or turn like it used to, it'll be front heavy and want to swap ends on even the slightest of corners..

not a good idea if you intend to drive the car around turns ;)

[rkvin21]

I just installed my underdrive pulley and water pulley. Unfortunately I didn't install the alt because it was getting dark and I didn't know how I should go about replacing it. Do I have to remove the alt? If so how do I go about that exactly. I can loosen all the bolts no problem but what about the cables that are connected to it?

Thanks in advance

[Tamago]

I just installed my underdrive pulley and water pulley. Unfortunately I didn't install the alt because it was getting dark and I didn't know how I should go about replacing it. Do I have to remove the alt? If so how do I go about that exactly. I can loosen all the bolts no problem but what about the cables that are connected to it?

Thanks in advance

if you can loosen the mounting bolts you can loosen the cables ;)

it may be difficult to get the alternator pulley off without an impact gun though..

[rkvin21]

So are ur saying I should pull it forward or take it off? I have an air ratchet does that count? :biggrin:

[Tamago]

So are ur saying I should pull it forward or take it off? I have an air ratchet does that count? :biggrin:

if you have the ability, leave the belt on it, nice and tight.. then try to loosen the nut. then remove the belt and install the new pulley

and enjoy your "extra power" lmfao ;)

and no, air ratchet won't do what an impact gun will.. Harbor freight sells them decently cheap.. i recommend picking up a 1/2" drive one

[rkvin21]

I was asking if I should take off or pull foward the alt not the belt to replace the pulley. lol

[Tamago]

I was asking if I should take off or pull foward the alt not the belt to replace the pulley. lol

if you can get to the nut that holds the pulley on without removing the alternator i say leave it on
but having the belt in place will help you get that nut loose

[rkvin21]

I don't have anything to fit the tight space. From what I checked its a 22mm and there wasn't much room for a wrench or ratchet. So far the only possible hard part would be removing the cables connected to the alt. What is the best way to do that?

[cali yaris]

when we do the pulley installs, I take the alternator off, it just makes everything easier.

[rkvin21]

when we do the pulley installs, I take the alternator off, it just makes everything easier.
i kinda figured I would lol. I'm still asking what is the best way to remove the cables that are connected to the alt more specifically the lower one. Is only brute force the answer to unplugging it or is there another way?