Installed the 1zz throttle body -

[AlexNet0]

I installed the 1zz throttle body today, and after everything was bolted back up, the engine oscillated terribly, I was expecting the 2-3k revs, but then after a few minutes it started to rev weird, eventually dropping off and starting to rough idle between 500 and 2k rpm, I attempted to purge the air from the lines, and got a few bubbles out of the coolant, and no more were coming out, but it did the same thing. No CEL was present during this. :mad: :bs::bs::bs:

So to prevent damage, I took it off and re-installed the stock throttle body, as I was doing this, I noticed that there was no coolant passing through the 1zz throttle body, the lines were empty. however when I bolted back up the stock TB and everything connected again, it oscillates between 2-3k rpm still, although I again purged the air from the coolant, getting more bubbles than I did with the 1zz TB.

What could this be from? I was shocked when I put the stock throttle body back on and it still oscillated like that. :cry:

[ddongbap]

You gotta give it a while for the ECU to fix itself.

Right now, you're in limbo. The ECU thinks that it still has the 1zz TB in it, so its trying to fix the 1zz TB settings, when you're still rocking the stock one. Just stick to one for a little bit.

That coolant line just helps unfreeze the TB if you're in a region where stuff will freeze overnight. Doesn't really have anything to do with the idle.

[AlexNet0]

You gotta give it a while for the ECU to fix itself.

Right now, you're in limbo. The ECU thinks that it still has the 1zz TB in it, so its trying to fix the 1zz TB settings, when you're still rocking the stock one. Just stick to one for a little bit.

I hope so, so what should I do, leave it overnight? should I disconnect the battery overnight?

[ddongbap]

I hope so, so what should I do, leave it overnight? should I disconnect the battery overnight?

I mean run your car with one TB. Just put up with the crappy idle for a day or so.

[AlexNet0]

man, lol, thanks for the quick reply, so driving with it like that is the best solution?
I mean disconnecting the battery wont reset the ECU back to normal overnight?

[thebarber]

you use a gasket maker for the 1zz throttle body?

and you need to let the car idle for 10min or so w/ the new throttle body on it so the ecu can learn that its there...

[AlexNet0]

no, I used the stock gasket, , but it felt like it sealed okay, perhaps not. anyway I will go sit in my car for like 10 minutes and see if the idle levels back out with the stock TB, thanks

[ddongbap]

man, lol, thanks for the quick reply, so driving with it like that is the best solution?
I mean disconnecting the battery wont reset the ECU back to normal overnight?it might. But it would be better if the ECU figured it out.

[ddongbap]

no, I used the stock gasket, , but it felt like it sealed okay, perhaps not. anyway I will go sit in my car for like 10 minutes and see if the idle levels back out with the stock TB, thanks
Does the stock gasket seep into the 1zz TB? Or does it clear the bigger hole?

[FunctionSpec]

You need to get all the air out of the coolant. Its important that you do. Gently squeeze the lines and get the air bubbles moving out of the coolant. Gently rev it to get the coolant flowing. A large air bubble can cause an air-lock in the coolant that prevents the coolant from flowing through the throttle body and back into the coolant system.

Air bubbles cause the oscillations because of the difference in temperature. Air heats up faster then coolant so whenever an air bubble passes over the coolant temp sensor, it lowers the idle thinking the engine is warmed up and then when the colder coolant passes over, it raises the idle thinking the engine is still cold.

ECU doesn't need to "learn" anything. It adjusts accordingly to how much air is flowing in. You will always have a high idle on a cold startup with this setup because the ecu doesn't start measuring airflow 10secs after startup. Once it does start measuring, it'll adjust the idle.

[AlexNet0]

I purged the air from the stock TB three times after re-installing it.

started up from cold, removed cap (not reservoir cap) and squeezed the coolant lines going to the TB until no more bubbles came up. Let the car cool down and did it again till there were no more bubbles.



should probably point out that I was tired of messing with it at that particular time as it was 13 degrees F and I was running out of daylight (no garage) just so people dont think Im a little b*tch lol

[AlexNet0]

I just drove around for like a half hour and the revs dropped from 3k to 2k fully warmed up, Ill see how it is tomorrow

[thebarber]

no, I used the stock gasket, , but it felt like it sealed okay, perhaps not. anyway I will go sit in my car for like 10 minutes and see if the idle levels back out with the stock TB, thanks
you should use some gasket maker....the stock gasket isnt big enough for the new throttle body...

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b339/dabarber/yaris/corolla%20throttle%20body/gasketmaker.jpg

[ddongbap]

You need to get all the air out of the coolant. Its important that you do. Gently squeeze the lines and get the air bubbles moving out of the coolant. Gently rev it to get the coolant flowing. A large air bubble can cause an air-lock in the coolant that prevents the coolant from flowing through the throttle body and back into the coolant system.

Air bubbles cause the oscillations because of the difference in temperature. Air heats up faster then coolant so whenever an air bubble passes over the coolant temp sensor, it lowers the idle thinking the engine is warmed up and then when the colder coolant passes over, it raises the idle thinking the engine is still cold.

ECU doesn't need to "learn" anything. It adjusts accordingly to how much air is flowing in. You will always have a high idle on a cold startup with this setup because the ecu doesn't start measuring airflow 10secs after startup. Once it does start measuring, it'll adjust the idle.

Isn't that what learning is? Wouldn't that also explain why the stock TB is causing problems after he took the 1zz TB out?

[YarisSedan]

Seeing its a larger throttle body. Say the computer needs to open the throttle 10 percent to let in a certain amount of air. With a larger throttle 10 percent is really like 25 percent. Which is why you will always have a high idle. But why you also get better throttle response and power. Because say you want to open the throttle to 50 percent normall its more like 75 percent if you compare the amount of air being sucked into the engine.

I would not attempt this mod till you have exhausted other possiblities of increasing power such as a AFE intake or trd exhause or headers. Before slapping on the throttle body.

[AlexNet0]

solved the issue, I disconnected the battery for 5-10 minutes and when I connected it again..No more odd revs. Note that this is the stock TB that I was having issues with.


I would not attempt this mod till you have exhausted other possiblities of increasing power such as a AFE intake or trd exhause or headers. Before slapping on the throttle body.

I do not have money for exhaust or header, or I would have them already, I have a cold air that is working nicely for me now.

you should use some gasket maker....the stock gasket isnt big enough for the new throttle body...

how did you apply the gasket maker? To the Manifold side or the TB side?

[ddongbap]

Seeing its a larger throttle body. Say the computer needs to open the throttle 10 percent to let in a certain amount of air. With a larger throttle 10 percent is really like 25 percent. Which is why you will always have a high idle. But why you also get better throttle response and power. Because say you want to open the throttle to 50 percent normall its more like 75 percent if you compare the amount of air being sucked into the engine.

I would not attempt this mod till you have exhausted other possiblities of increasing power such as a AFE intake or trd exhause or headers. Before slapping on the throttle body.

I think this TB would yield better results than an intake, and exhaust.

[AlexNet0]

Ill try it again when its warmer out or I find someones garage to work in, its negative 7 right now.

[thebarber]

how did you apply the gasket maker? To the Manifold side or the TB side?

im pretty sure i put it on the throttle body

to be honest, i wouldnt being doing this in the cold....im not sure how the gasket maker will set up when its as cold as it is right now....

when i did mine it was in sept of 2008....so it wasnt too cold yet

but for the record you SHOULD be disconnecting the battery when you swap tb's....itll reset the ecu so the car can relearn on the new tb. let it idle for about 10min and then youre off. also, not a mod id keep on the car in winter due to the high idle when the engine is cold...

[YarisPR]

im pretty sure i put it on the throttle body

to be honest, i wouldnt being doing this in the cold....im not sure how the gasket maker will set up when its as cold as it is right now....

when i did mine it was in sept of 2008....so it wasnt too cold yet

but for the record you SHOULD be disconnecting the battery when you swap tb's....itll reset the ecu so the car can relearn on the new tb. let it idle for about 10min and then youre off. also, not a mod id keep on the car in winter due to the high idle when the engine is cold...


I still have 1zz and still oscilates, its and Iddle malfunction. I have installed the stock one a few times and you HAVE to disconect the batery and before the installation of any of the TB. And as thebarber said it take about 10 min for the car to iddle rigth after you put the 1zz TB.

[saplaymate]

I explained to you in the PM how to clear the ECU instantly and apply the sealant; also you must adjust the throttle stop!

[tk-421]

I explained to you in the PM how to clear the ECU instantly and apply the sealant; also you must adjust the throttle stop!
Could you post that info up here for those of us that are getting ready to do this mod? TIA

[ztrack157]

I never knew about adjusting the throttle stop.

[AlexNet0]

well, I guess I messed up and didnt pay attention with the ECU and the gasket, however I will try to explain what is involved to the best of my ability so far, will add pictures later on.

Remove whichever aftermarket intake you have installed, or remove the stock airbox by:
Unclasping the two clips holding the filter cover - use a flathead screwdriver to remove the round clamp holding the air tube to the box, and remove the tube from the throttle body opening. remove the MAF sensor plug from the top of the stock airbox. - Remove the top cover and air filter, and set aside to give you room to work.

Remove the TB-ECU plug from the right side of the Throttle Body, use a 10mm socket to remove the bracket that holds the wire bundle to the throttle body.
At this point if you havent already, remove the negative clamp from the battery and lay off to the side where it cannot touch either of the battery terminals.

(what I did-)Have a couple mid-size wire nuts handy, and remove the lower/front coolant line to the throttle body, and plug the line with the wire nut so no coolant leaks out.

Use the 10mm socket to remove the uppermost 2 bolts holding the large coolant return line. remove the next 2 bolts holding the bracket on to the throttle body and set the bracket aside.

Unclasp the second coolant line from the clip that was under the large coolant return line to free up slack to work with. use the other wire nut to plug the second coolant line for now.

Use the 10mm socket to remove the three remaining nuts and the one lower left bolt from the drivers-side facing side of the throttle body.

gently pull the throttle body toward the drivers side of the engine bay untill if comes free from the gasket (ensure you have the gasket in your hand after removing the TB, mine stuck to the Throttle Body and fell off before I realized it was there, lol)

--

Prepare the 1zz throttle body by removing any foreign dirt, grease, or whatever.
hold the throttle body Inlet facing you, ECU plug on your right, and you should see the throttle stop screw on the upper right-hand side, may or may not be covered by clear apoxy, regardless, you will need to remove the apoxy if it is present. You will need a small (not sure of size) allen wrench to adjust the idle.

(((((--------Let me know if I am not correct about this section--
Use the gasket maker as pointed out by thebarber on the previous page to make a consistant ring around the manifold side of the throttle body, let set for a few minutes, and place and slide the 1zz throttle body over the three bolts protruding from the intake manifold. Thread on the nuts and the one reverse facing bolt in an alternating pattern to ensure a good seal, as well as when you torque them down (not sure of ft/lbs to torque to).
-----------------------)))))

Re-Assemble in reverse of above.

When you get the intake back on, making sure both coolant lines, the TB plug, and the MAF is reconnected, reconnect the negative battery terminal, (if car is COLD) remove the coolant cover (not resivoire) and start the engine. Before the coolant heats up, alternate squeezing the coolant lines coming and going to the throttle body untill you get no more bubbles, or the coolant starts to rise (as this means its heating up) replace the coolant cap, shut off the car, and wait for it to cool down, and repeat untill no more bubbles come out of the coolant.

when there are no more bubbles in the coolant, you can replace the cover for good, and start the car again. this time, let it idle for several minutes so that the engine is fully warm, and adjust the idle stop screw to your liking, I recommend between 500 and 1k rpm like stock. Apply apoxy to screw and let sit overnight.


let me know if I forgot anything, and I will work on getting pictures.

[tk-421]

Thanks for the writeup! Looking forward to the pics... I'm sure they'll be quite helpful as well.

[andruboz]

Prepare the 1zz throttle body by removing any foreign dirt, grease, or whatever.
hold the throttle body Inlet facing you, ECU plug on your right, and you should see the throttle stop screw on the upper right-hand side, may or may not be covered by clear apoxy, regardless, you will need to remove the apoxy if it is present. You will need a small (not sure of size) allen wrench to adjust the idle.

DO NOT.. I REPEAT.. DO NOT try to turn that allen screw until all the epoxy is gone. i stuck a 2mm in there and promptly stripped the snot out of it. 2.5 mm doesn't fit, neither does a 3/32. will have to cut a slot and try to get it out with a screw driver. hopefully it doesn't have some proprietary point on the end and i'll be able to find a replacement.

Who knows what kind of juice melts the last bit of epoxy?

[knucklehead]

i read the whole thread and im still a bit confused...AlexNet0, were you able to resolve the problem with the idling by using the gasket maker and adjusment of the idle stop screw?how about the cold starting, what is the rpm that you are getting?..is the TB that you installed DBW or the cable type?

im thinking of also doing this mod but i feel a bit apprehensive based on reading this :) ..

[AlexNet0]

cold start idle was 2.7k-3k, it was my own mistake with the oscillating by NOT using the gasket maker, I have no doubt that when I put the 1zz TB back in using the gasket maker I wont have any issues.

I dont think ul have a cold idle problem in the Philippines

[yarstar]

Anybody know how to get the epoxy off safely?

I plan on putting the one I just got on this weekend.

Way cool thread here. I appreciate all that everyone has contributed on this one.

BTW, I already have CAI, catback, NST pulleys, and header. This is the last engine mod I can do without a turbo install.

[AlexNet0]

what did you do tho stop the oscillation?

[yarstar]

Don't get in a rush and crank the car before the gasket maker is set. I made a big mess in my intake by getting ahead of myself.

[AlexNet0]

Oh ok, so the ecu reset cured the oscillation

[thebarber]

not really

mind sharing what you did?

[yarstar]

mind sharing what you did?

+1

[AlexNet0]

He probably did something with the blitz throttle controller, says he has one on the cardomain link

[thebarber]

He probably did something with the blitz throttle controller, says he has one on the cardomain link

i dont see how that would help...

[AlexNet0]

Sooooo...... You swapped internals on the throttle bodies?

Im sorry but I dont really like hit and miss answers, I do appreciate info though, dont get me wrong.

[tk-421]

So the trick to cure the oscillation is simply not letting the ECU recognized the 1zz TB, therefor the ECU will function normally as it thinks it is still operating the OEM 1nz TB
So basically you fixed the oscillation problem by not doing anything? I don't get it. :confused:
So what if you ever need to reset the ECU in the future? How would you fix then oscillation issue then?

[thebarber]

i have to admit, when i had the TB on my car, i never had an oscillation problem

i unhooked the negative terminal....removed the stock tb, installed the 1zz TB with the gasket maker, let it sit for 20 or 30min to set up

then i started the car and let the engine idle for about 10-15min then went for a spin...

never had a problem...

[ddongbap]

A change in airflow is a change in airflow. Theres no way you can really trick different air flow.

[yarstar]

Re-install went well with not vacuum leak this time. I let the gasket maker sit on the new TB overnight and it sealed well. WOW! you can really tell this gives you significant increase in the mid-range and top-end. My car really takes off from about 40mph to 60mph.

New Problem: CEL :iono:


I've disconnected the battery for the night so it will reset the ECU. I'll give it another try tomorrow.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[yarstar]

How do I get rid of the CEL light w/o a scangauge? (I hate that light, BTW)

[Tamago]

I hope so, so what should I do, leave it overnight? should I disconnect the battery overnight?

i left a turbo in my passenger floor for two days and it never started spooling :cry:

edit: but i left the battery connected...

[yarstar]

T-sport, would you explain that about using the OEM TB?

[Tamago]

How do I get rid of the CEL light w/o a scangauge? (I hate that light, BTW)

either unplug the ecu cables or disconnect the battery ground. with the engine off of course.

[anonymous user]

Might i also suggest pumping the brake pedal to accelerate situation of removing power from your vehicle. Once brake lights no longer illuminate, voila. You can reconnect the battery terminals again.

[Tamago]

Might i also suggest pumping the brake pedal to accelerate situation of removing power from your vehicle.

why pump it?

[Tamago]

T-sport, would you explain that about using the OEM TB?

he means, when you re-install your OEM TB your CEL will go away lol.

[at3GG]

will this give a decent upgrade in the power dept? or is it more of a throttle response perk?

[yarstar]

T-sport - you're a FREAKING GENIUS. I never would have thought of that.

Thanks!



:headbang:

[AlexNet0]

did i miss something? how did he cure it?

[thebarber]

did i miss something? how did he cure it?

x2

[tk-421]

x3
so confused at this point...

[yarstar]

Somehow the post got removed.

T-sport stated that you take your OEM TB, lay it next to the 1zz TB on the engine, unplug the 1zz and then plug the harness into the OEM TB, turn the car to 'on' but don't crank. Leave it for a few minutes, turn car off, re-plug the 1zz TB.

This, he says, will 'trick' the ECU to thinking the OEM have been reinstalled and fix the CEL. I haven't tried this yet, but it does sound smart.

[thebarber]

so you didnt find out the code on the CEL?

[yarstar]

so you didnt find out the code on the CEL?

I don't have a scangauge. The damn CEL came on again! Is there anyway to run this w/o getting a CEL? You can really feel the difference in hp. My car has alot of kick now.

[TheRealEnth]

i left a turbo in my passenger floor for two days and it never started spooling
ROFLCOPTER!!!!!!

[YarisPR]

I don't have a scangauge. The damn CEL came on again! Is there anyway to run this w/o getting a CEL? You can really feel the difference in hp. My car has alot of kick now.

I used a Generic Scan Tool and the code was P0505 or something like that
But the code was: Idle Malfunction.


On another note

I had the TB installed for more than a month and I do have a CEL, but something weird happened..... On two separate occasions I've started the car (first start of the day) and the CEL was gone. It idle was normal, as if I had the stock TB (it didn't went over 2500rpm). But this lasted only one day (that days). The next day the CEL was back on. But it was nice not seeing the annoying light for at least 24 hours :biggrin:
But it was weird sh*t .....

[tk-421]

I am 99% sure that the dealer can recalibrate the ECU to compensate for the new TB. I will be making a visit soon, so I'll try to find that out.

[FunctionSpec]

I have had the 1ZZ TB on for about 20K miles. No CEL and no Oscillation. Didn't even use a gasket maker. Usually plastic on metal fills in the gaps but you can add a gasket maker for extra insurance.

I have the Simota CAI which might make a difference. Yaris is bit sensitive to the types of intakes it uses and will throw a code. What types of codes are you guys getting?

[tk-421]

I also have a Simota SRI with no CELs. Hopefully that won't change when I do the swap.

[yarstar]

I am 99% sure that the dealer can recalibrate the ECU to compensate for the new TB. I will be making a visit soon, so I'll try to find that out.


BIG +1 on that. I'd love to know if a dealer could fix the CEL permanently.

[tk-421]

I just got a call from the dealer... They're having trouble fitting the OEM hose to the larger-diameter TB. Apparently they've tried putting the hose in some warm water, which makes it more flexible, but they still weren't able to fit it.

How did you guys manage to get it installed?

[yarstar]

I have a AEM CAI which I had to stretch some to get to fit, but it did fit. I looked at the OEM sitting in my garage before I tried to install the new TB, and saw it might be a significant problem to make work. Maybe getting a slightly larger diameter piece of rubber hosing (the AEM looks like radiator hose) and use that.

Please keep us updated on this TK. I am very interested in whether the dealer can re-calibrate the ECU to keep the CEL from coming on.

Thanks for today's update too. :thumbsup:

[tk-421]

I have a AEM CAI which I had to stretch some to get to fit, but it did fit. I looked at the OEM sitting in my garage before I tried to install the new TB, and saw it might be a significant problem to make work. Maybe getting a slightly larger diameter piece of rubber hosing (the AEM looks like radiator hose) and use that.

Please keep us updated on this TK. I am very interested in whether the dealer can re-calibrate the ECU to keep the CEL from coming on.

Thanks for today's update too. :thumbsup:
How did you manage to stretch it? I really don't want to start looking for a replacement hose, especially since it may end up being too large for my existing intake.

[yarstar]

The AEM hose is more pliant than the OEM hose. I heated it in hot water and then worked it on the TB first, then installed the CAI. It was so tight I didn't use a hose clamp. I think you may have to go with the aftermarket, or another OEM hose (Corolla, maybe?).

I just measured the inside diameter of my 1ZZE TB = 60mm. The inside diameter of the OEM hose is 54mm. That's not gonna stretch that far. The hose has to stretch to the outside diameter of the TB, which is approximately 64mm. The rubber is alot thicker on the OEM hose than on the AEM CAI hose. I'd be very impressed if the dealer gets it on. I bet they'll have to use something else. Sorry your having problems.

:frown:

[tk-421]

The AEM hose is more pliant than the OEM hose. I heated it in hot water and then worked it on the TB first, then installed the CAI. It was so tight I didn't use a hose clamp. I think you may have to go with the aftermarket, or another OEM hose (Corolla, maybe?).

I just measured the inside diameter of my 1ZZE TB = 60mm. The inside diameter of the OEM hose is 54mm. That's not gonna stretch that far. The hose has to stretch to the outside diameter of the TB, which is approximately 64mm. The rubber is alot thicker on the OEM hose than on the AEM CAI hose. I'd be very impressed if the dealer gets it on. I bet they'll have to use something else. Sorry your having problems.

:frown:

Thanks! I guess I'll have to do that then... I just don't want any fitting issues at the other side of the hose. Hopefully the bracket can get it tight enough to prevent leaks. :confused:

BTW, I've asked the rep to check about the ECU compensation thingie. I'll let you know what he tells me for sure. :thumbsup:

[AlexNet0]

I had to use an adapter like the one here, and only for an aftermarket aluminum plumbed intake, I cant imagine how you would fit the stock air tube on there.

http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/imag/2.225%20reducer.jpg


PS, please do let us know if they fix the ECU compensation

[PHXDEMON]

in for an update of if dealer can recalibrate ECU.

[tk-421]

Unfortunately I had to back off on the installation. I didn't know that I needed to find an adapter for the hose, and they haven't been able to fit it.

Now I need to pay double: Once for the swap to the 1ZZ TB, and twice because they need to get the OEM one back in there. :mad:

I need to go pick up my car in a few minutes. I'll ask them about the ECU recalibration and let you guys know.

[AlexNet0]

^just FYI it only took me 20 minutes both to put this in, and 20 to take it off... so I hope they aren't charging you out the a$$ for that.

[yarstar]

^just FYI it only took me 20 minutes both to put this in, and 20 to take it off... so I hope they aren't charging you out the a$$ for that.

+1, and I'm not a professional mechanic.

[tk-421]

Yeah I think I can do it by myself as well, although I usually choose to do it through the dealer because I get a 30-day warranty on installation.

I'm currently looking for a silicone coupler to try again. They'll install the TB for free the next time I go for an appointment, so I'm not too mad. :wink:

[AlexNet0]

Im sorry, I dont think I said it correctly, you can only use a coupler like that if you have an aftermarket intake, unless you can take a small piece of aluminum tubing around 2" long to piece it together with.

[hatchbackkid82]

Anyone know if there is a pronlem installing this throttle body with a AFE intake?

[m911gt]

Anyone know if there is a pronlem installing this throttle body with a AFE intake?

good question, i'd like to know the answer as well

[thebarber]

how does the AFE connect to the TB?

[AlexNet0]

I believe the AFE uses a 45 degree rubber coupler that is sized to the stock TB, please correct me if I am wrong, I do not know if it is stretchable.

If this is indeed the case, then you can use a small piece of aluminum piping and the silicone rubber coupler mentioned before.

[Gideon]

I have the TB installed with an aFe intake.

Had to heat up the the rubber coupling in hot water for a bit to make it stretchable enough to fit. Install all nuts on the TB first before trying to put the rubber coupling on as it's thick enough that the TB mounting studs are pressed hard into the sides of the coupling.

[m911gt]

Installed the 1zz tb today, it was a relatively simple swap. Here's what happened after it was installed:

I let the car sit in the "on" position for 10 minutes
I started the car to get it up to operating temperature
-the idle swung from ~1400 rpm to ~2500 rpm for five minutes then idled at ~1500
I drove around town and some country roads for fifteen minutes, the idle varied while in neutral
I then parked the car and the idling became "normal" and rested around 900 rpm
I shut the car off and drove it again about an hour later...the idle was pretty low, around 600 rpm.
The car now idles around 600 rpm without any oscillation or CEL :)

I DID bypass the coolant lines and I did NOT swap the chip (yet) I'm going to drive around with this setup for a couple of days to see if there are any irregularities before I decide whether or not to swap chips.

Oh, I definitely can feel the difference in my 0-60 distance, it pulls stronger after about 4000 rpm all the way to about 80-90 mph. Great performance mod for under $60

[m911gt]

on another note, does anyone know the name of the part that the throttle body bolts up to? since the 1zz tb is much wider in diameter than the 1nf tb, the stock cylinder part that the 1zz gets bolted up to blocks a tiny bit of airflow, not allowing the 1zz to maximize its potential. i was wondering what this part is so i could see if i could find a mate for the 1zz tb.

[thebarber]

on another note, does anyone know the name of the part that the throttle body bolts up to? since the 1zz tb is much wider in diameter than the 1nf tb, the stock cylinder part that the 1zz gets bolted up to blocks a tiny bit of airflow, not allowing the 1zz to maximize its potential. i was wondering what this part is so i could see if i could find a mate for the 1zz tb.

it connects to the intake manifold...

[m911gt]

it connects to the intake manifold...

right, i didn't know if there was a specific name for the small portion right after the tb...or is that just the intake manifold?

[m911gt]

would a TB from either a camry or a rav4 fit? i found some on ebay. or the bolts won't line up.

idk for sure, but a 1zz is used for many toyotas...do they have the 1zz-fe motor? i thought the camry and rav-4 motors were larger?

[m911gt]

like this :http://cgi.ebay.ca/04-05-06-07-Toyota-Sienna-RX330-3-3-3MZ-Throttle-Body_W0QQitemZ120381559836QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item12038155983 6&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

no, i don't believe it is the same

[m911gt]

Update:

This morning on the way to school, my car threw 2 CEL's: 2103 and 2111. Basically, the TB valve was stuck on WOT and when I hit the gas from a dead stop, nothing happened...the engine speed did not even increase.

I ended up swapping the chips (sensors) from the two throttle bodies and so far, so good. there is a high rev on cold start ups but after that, it settles down to around 900 rpm...without adjusting the idle set screw.

[jkuchta]

Once you get that screw adjusted life will be even better. I noticed that with the idle set screw left in the "corolla" position, the transition to DFCO was pretty rough.

With the screw adjusted to a 600-700 rpm warm idle, DFCO transitions are back to near-stock.

[AlexNet0]

I just re-installed the 1zz throttle body, this time with the 1nz chip swapped onto it, and it still oscillates, so im leaving the battery unplugged longer this time. Did anyone have any initial oscillation before it settled on just a high idle?

[m911gt]

I just re-installed the 1zz throttle body, this time with the 1nz chip swapped onto it, and it still oscillates, so im leaving the battery unplugged longer this time. Did anyone have any initial oscillation before it settled on just a high idle?

i think just about everybody had that, i think it's normal.

[AlexNet0]

awesome, now I'm not mad anymore, lol, I get so pissed whenever I try something and it doesnt work, makes me feel so incompetent when I know I'm fully capable, lol

[m911gt]

awesome, now I'm not mad anymore, lol, I get so pissed whenever I try something and it doesnt work, makes me feel so incompetent when I know I'm fully capable, lol

oh i know what you mean, but it'll oscillate back and forth until it finds a happy medium

[AlexNet0]

i think i just got a bad 1zz tb, it still just oscillates wildly and doesnt settle at all, even fully warmed up, even with the 1nz chip swapped in. i just put the 1nz tb back on, maybe ill try to get ahold of another1zz tb

[thebarber]

i have an extra 1zz tb

[dallas]

First dibs, why did you buy two? are they different serial numbers ? What do you want for it, if it's o.k ? I'm in Canada like you, so shipping should be easy.

[jkuchta]

Make sure you use a god gasket maker (RTV silicone), and let it sit for 3-5 hours before starting the car.

If you don't let the silicone set up before starting the car, the engine vacuume will suck the stuff into the intake, and you'll get an ocillation and CEL!

[AlexNet0]

Exactly what I used, I let it set for over an hour, when I pulled it back off after getting the same bad result it was set pretty well. It barely responded to the throttle, meaning that I could not manually hold it in one spot, it would start to, then it just took over, maybe a bad spring in it or something, I dunno.

[jkuchta]

What codes are you getting...and have you adjusted the idle set screw yet?

[tk-421]

I just finished my own TB swap install. I made the chip swap from the start, took the epoxy off the idle screw, and bypassed the TB coolant lines, just as other members have done.

I was unable to find a silicone coupler quickly enough, so I just used a dremel with a filing bit on the inside of the hose until it fit perfectly.

I just took it back from a test drive, and have a BIG smile on my face. No CELs, no weird idle fluctuations, nothing. The only small detail was that it idled at 3K for the first minute or so. After that it steadily went down until it got to 0.5 K.

So now I guess that I shouldn't even need to adjust the idle screw at all. I'll try it out for a couple of days. If nothing happens, I'll just seal the screw again and be done with it.

The difference can be felt right away. And not only did I not notice a power loss at lower revs, but actually a gain! The car pulls a lot better now, even from a complete stop. And the sound is amazing too.

Many thanks to Yaris T-Sport for his excellent idea to swap the chips, and jkuchta for his writeup! :bow:

Now on to the 4-2-1 header... :laugh:

[kustom play]

where are you guys getting the connector for the coolant bypass?

[Saggio]

I just finished my own TB swap install. I made the chip swap from the start, took the epoxy off the idle screw, and bypassed the TB coolant lines, just as other members have done.

I was unable to find a silicone coupler quickly enough, so I just used a dremel with a filing bit on the inside of the hose until it fit perfectly.

I just took it back from a test drive, and have a BIG smile on my face. No CELs, no weird idle fluctuations, nothing. The only small detail was that it idled at 3K for the first minute or so. After that it steadily went down until it got to 0.5 K.

So now I guess that I shouldn't even need to adjust the idle screw at all. I'll try it out for a couple of days. If nothing happens, I'll just seal the screw again and be done with it.

The difference can be felt right away. And not only did I not notice a power loss at lower revs, but actually a gain! The car pulls a lot better now, even from a complete stop. And the sound is amazing too.

Many thanks to Yaris T-Sport for his excellent idea to swap the chips, and jkuchta for his writeup! :bow:

Now on to the 4-2-1 header... :laugh:


Hmm now I wanna do this again :biggrin:

[mikenacarato]

where are you guys getting the connector for the coolant bypass?

i used a Volvo VED12 Semi-truck engine piston squirter nozzle to make my bypass. :biggrin:

[jkuchta]

I used a 3/4 " brass double barb union from the plumbing section of Home Depot....I think I paid $5 for it.

[kustom play]

nice mike,

i'll tell them i need a 3/4 " brass double barb union, i think that would be my best bet

[tk-421]

I used a 3/4 " brass double barb union from the plumbing section of Home Depot....I think I paid $5 for it.
I tried a 3/4" but it was way too big. I went for a 1/4" instead and it worked great. Weird, I know. :confused:

[jkuchta]

I also tried a quarter inch fitting, but there was no resistance on the barb, so I went 3/4.

[kustom play]

just did the swap, same as TK

did the coolant bypass and the chip swap

took me a little over 2 hours to complete the whole thing, due the the fact that i forgot to charge the drill and i ran out to lowes to get the brass union for the bypass

everything is running smooth, no CEL yet, car idled high for about 5 mins then returned to near stock idle, (i would assume, i dont have a tach to really check for sure)

but big thing is no check engine light, seems to be a lot more peppy though!

cant beat this mod for the price, im going to run and do a few things around town so i hope it doesnt throw a CEL

i'll post back up with the results

[tk-421]

Looks like I will need to adjust the idle screw after all... Every time I cold start, it goes up to 3K and gradually goes down until the engine temp light turns off. No CELs as of yet, and I've been driving it pretty hard.

[kustom play]

my CEL just came on after about 15 miles

i'll have to wait and see what happens

[tk-421]

I just found something out by chance: I can lower the revs when cold starting by pumping the clutch pedal. Every time I press/depress the pedal, the revs go down a notch. Don't ask me why.

[m911gt]

I just found something out by chance: I can lower the revs when cold starting by pumping the clutch pedal. Every time I press/depress the pedal, the revs go down a notch. Don't ask me why.

and stay down?

[mikenacarato]

I just found something out by chance: I can lower the revs when cold starting by pumping the clutch pedal. Every time I press/depress the pedal, the revs go down a notch. Don't ask me why.

ya i noticed that too a few days ago and i noticed it does that.


on a side note....still no cel after hard driving and a few weeks of time. the chip swap mod is a success. :thumbup:

[kustom play]

i swapped the chips and did some normal driving, im going to try to burp the coolant and drive it like crazy for a while to see

[AlexNet0]

maybe I just didnt use enough gasket maker, err, practice makes perfect I guess, lol, since someone mentioned that a leak can cause it to go nuts too.

makes sense now, because it did go nuts on me, lol

[mikenacarato]

i didnt use any gasket maker.

[AlexNet0]

hmm, guess Ill just try it and find out then, haha

[jkuchta]

I used gasket maker, and everything is fine.


The coolant has nothing to do with the rpm ocillations or CEL's, and besides, the way the lines are run there is almost no way for air to be trapped in the TB.

[tk-421]

I think I may have a problem.

It looks like the idle screw hole (where the allen wrench goes) is very worn, and now I can't seem to be able to adjust it! Anybody have a nice trick to fix this?

BTW the one-bigger wrench doesn't fit.

[yarstar]

I could never get mine to turn. I got all the epoxy off but still couldn't turn the screw. Eventually, I stripped it. I gave up thinking I could adjust the idle down anyway. Did anyone else on here ever get their idle screw turning and adjust down the cold idle?

[jkuchta]

I adjusted the scew, but it won't help the high cold idle.

Thats caused by the car running on a preset warmup map with a predetermined throttle setting, which is not adjustable in real time by the ECU. Until the car is warmed up, the ECU is in Closed loop (I think thats the one), which means the ECU is not responding to rpm or throttle position or O2.

One way to get that screw loose would be to hit it with a small torch for a few seconds to burn off the epoxy. Hold the TB with a few damp rags to keep from burning yourself or overheating the TB itself.

Someone also suggested that you can freeze off the epoxy.

[m911gt]

i removed the epoxy with a dental pick and a little patience. i just kept picking away at it and used compressed air to blow the debris away...but turning it doesn't adjust the idle at all ? ?

one way you could still adjust the screw if it is stripped would be to put super glue on the end of the allen key and actually super glue it into the screw. i know it sounds kind of stupid, but it should work. after you have adjusted the screw/idle to your liking (if it will adjust anything), just use a bit of extra force and free the glued key.

[severous01]

dont know if it's been mentioned but here ya go...for OBD2 cars any way

when u replace the IAC motor or throttle body you MUST re-learn the iac.

here's how:
1 remove batt neg and hit brakes, turn on lights, and do whatever you think you can to drain capacitive discharge

2 reconnect battery

3 start car

4 wait 10 minutes

5 shut car off

6 wait till cool

7 start over from 3 n go to 5

you should be fine after that.



also, you may have what's called 'tip in hesitation' with a larger than needed throttle. it's when there's more air getting to the cylinders than what's needed. is it bad? eh...i dont like hesitation in my throttle and would rather smooth bore the stocker, maybe polish it. on my camaro i installed a 58mm dual bore throttle. all i had for performance was exhaust (did with TB) and intake...so when i hit the throttle it would pause for about a half a second then seriously kick u in the seat...any way. put the stocker on and it pulled just as hard with no hesitation...

take it for what you will, but if you're getting hesitation ur getting too much air. get bigger injectors or more power n you'll need the throttle.

[severous01]

also, another good 'free mod' would be to bypass the coolant in the throttle body.

nets about 5hp in a v8 camaro, and about 4 in a v6. if you're doing a cai and all this stuff....why you gonna heat up that cold air to about 215*????

any way, just pull the coolant inlets and get a vacuum hose connector or some nickel plated pipe with hose connectors. butt teh two coolant l ines together and dont worry about the TB temps any more...

oh, by the way, if you live in a really cold area dont do this mod. the coolant heats up the air temp and allows smoother running engine for cold weather.

[m911gt]

I'm about to post up my 1zz tb for sale. If anyone's interested, please PM me. I cleaned the valve and cylinder and drilled the rivets out so the 1zz tb + 1zz chip + all hardware will be $65 shipped in the US.

[MGargano]

Somehow the post got removed.

T-sport stated that you take your OEM TB, lay it next to the 1zz TB on the engine, unplug the 1zz and then plug the harness into the OEM TB, turn the car to 'on' but don't crank. Leave it for a few minutes, turn car off, re-plug the 1zz TB.

This, he says, will 'trick' the ECU to thinking the OEM have been reinstalled and fix the CEL. I haven't tried this yet, but it does sound smart.

Anyone have any success with this?

[AlainMikli]

I wonder how the stock(1nz) intake tube can bolt onto 1zz TB since the 1zz has bigger outer diameter.

[tk-421]

I wonder how the stock(1nz) intake tube can bolt onto 1zz TB since the 1zz has bigger outer diameter.
It can, but you need to increase the inner tube diameter a little. I used a dremel with a filing bit and it came out great.

[AlexNet0]

Anyone have any success with this?


Not that I know of, swapping the TB chips is what is helping other people

[jkuchta]

Not that I know of, swapping the TB chips is what is helping other people



Yes...this swap works!

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=273295&postcount=78

[white_rice]

Sorry to bring an old thread back to life but I did a search for a CEL code and it brought up this thread.

Purchased a 1zz throttle body off a member here about a month ago. This is the one here, which is the correct one to use as per the forums:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51570

So anyways took the car to my mechanic friends shop tonight to do the install. Firs thing we did was disconnect the battery. Removed the existing throttle body.

Quickly realized that the rubber coupler from my K&N Typhoon short ram intake would not fit over the new larger diameter of the 1zz TB. Luckily he had an OEM air box and tubing from a Civic in his shop. Fit perfectly over the 1zz so we cut that down to size and had our new coupler.

Also then realized that the O-ring seal was too small and wouldn't make a proper seal. He had some gasket maker (Permatex Ultra Black) on hand so we put a nice thick coat of that on the throttle body to ensure no air leaks.

Had to put on some different hose clamps as well for the new thicker coupler as existing ones were too small now.

Put everything back together. Re-connected the battery. First turn of the key it did not fire. Very sluggish. Tried again and it fired up but with a very high, fluctuating idle. Let it sit and run and after about 60 seconds or so, idle began to drop and drop until it eventually got to where it should be. We let the car run at idle for 10 minutes before shutting off engine.

He then used a stethoscope to ensure no vacuum leaks as he was concerned about the high revving upon starting. No leaks detected.

We then took it for a test drive down the road. Felt very nice. Definitely more responsive.

It wasn't until we got back to his shop 5 minutes later that we realized we now had a CEL. He used his Scanguage and read the code. Not 100% sure of code but from researching on forum, it must have been P0505. As the code error read as 'Idle Control System Malfunction'.

Cleared the code, and re-started the car and it went away. Shut off and on and again and code did not come back. Figured it just had come on due to the very high revving on initial start.

It wasn't until about 15 minutes after I was driving home that the CEL popped back on again!

On that note -- thats why I'm posting asking for advice. I did some reading. 2 things that have come to my attention are breaking up the epoxy on that allan key idle screw and adjusting. I also read about swapping some sensor or chip. I'm confused as to what chip exactly. One from the existing OEM TB and onto the new 1zz TB? Do you believe that either of these 2 might be the issue, throwing me a CEL? Also, never did this colont bypass people are talking about either, as I live in a cold climate (Southern Ontario, Canada).

Please give any advice to help me rid of the CEL.

------

So I've spent the last 2+ hours reading through more threads. It appears that nobody knows the 'definite' cause for this CEL, however it is sometime remedied by either adjusting that idle screw, or swapping the sensors from the one on the OEM TB. We can attempt these when I had back to my mechanics. My only other concern is that we did drive the car not too long after we installed the gasket sealer. Hoping that isn't an issue with it getting sucked into the intake manifold. He did say its a very fast drying sealer. I'm pretty convinced it might be that idle screw needing adjusting. Will have to post progress. Not heading back there for a couple weeks though so have patience. :)

[tk-421]

I did the chip swap by keeping the OEM chip and ditching the 1ZZ chip. Took 5 minutes to remove the rivets using a drill with a small bit and another 5 minutes to screw everything back up. Have yet to encounter a CEL due to this.

[white_rice]

I did the chip swap by keeping the OEM chip and ditching the 1ZZ chip. Took 5 minutes to remove the rivets using a drill with a small bit and another 5 minutes to screw everything back up. Have yet to encounter a CEL due to this.

Thank you. So you just swapped the chip, but didn't touch that idle screw at all?

[tk-421]

My TB came with a big gunk of epoxy on the idle screw, so I just left it as is. I suspect this is what causes a high idle on the first ~30 secs of starting up, but I'm pretty sure that has nothing to do with your CEL.
Then again, tweaking that screw might just do the trick... :iono:

[white_rice]

My TB came with a big gunk of epoxy on the idle screw, so I just left it as is. I suspect this is what causes a high idle on the first ~30 secs of starting up, but I'm pretty sure that has nothing to do with your CEL.
Then again, tweaking that screw might just do the trick... :iono:

Yeah thats what I'm confused of. Nobody ever seem to have come up with a definite answer as to which one (if either) of these problems was the definite issue causing the CEL. Seems to be more of a hit or miss fix to the problem. Some people appear to have never got the CEL at all. Too many variables here. Suppose I will start with the chip swap and move along from there.

[white_rice]

I did the chip swap by keeping the OEM chip and ditching the 1ZZ chip. Took 5 minutes to remove the rivets using a drill with a small bit and another 5 minutes to screw everything back up. Have yet to encounter a CEL due to this.

Also what size screws did you use to replace the existing rivets?

[tk-421]

Too many variables here. Suppose I will start with the chip swap and move along from there.
The chip swap should be enough to fix it. I'm 99% sure the idle screw just helps nudge the idle up or down in the RPM range, but not enough to throw a CEL.
Just make sure the battery has been disconnected for a while. Otherwise you won't be able to tell for sure if it's due to the ECU storing previous settings or not.

Also what size screws did you use to replace the existing rivets?
Dang it! I knew you were gonna ask that... :biggrin:
Unfortunately I can't tell for sure. I just looked around for some screws and I found the perfect set with nuts to match.

[Rigaud]

I did not disconnect the battery, left it live. Swapped chips and removed the epoxy to dial the idle but only while it wasn't running. The P0505 is due to high idle and the oscillation the ECU searching and needs to learn. I had the oscillation too at first, it went away after a day or two. I had the P0505 popping up every day for two weeks but it took longer every time for it to show up. Eventually all has settled itself and works great. Best direct upgrade I did so far. My installation went fairly well because I did some reading on hear first before doing the job and not after the fact. ;)

Give it some time for your ECU to relearn with the bigger TB.