Cold Engine and Gear Shifting

[captainm27]

Now, I know that the car won't shift to 3rd gear when it's cold. From what I can tell, the engine is trying to get hot as fast as possible, because it operates more efficiently that way.... But, wouldn't higher RPM's in a cold engine cause more wear and damage on the engine? Isn't the oil, like, not warm enough yet for faster speeds? I know the car was designed with this in mind, but I'm just trying to make sense of this.:confused:

For some reason, I always feel like I am abusing it when I turn it on, and get on a speedy road really quick while it's still warming up.

[talnlnky]

from what i've heard... the auto stays in 1st gear until like 30mpg until it heats up...
Prolly for emissions & MPG reasons... doubt toyota is that concerned about the engine being damaged... I mean.. .their engines last over 100,000 miles easy. They are in the business of making money... which means you need people to come back and either buy a new car every 5-10years... OR buy replacement parts (at a huge mark-up).

[Bob_VT]

It's is actually the OD (4th) that is locked out by the ECU until the engine reaches 130-139 degrees.

It should be an indicator that the car is not fully warmed up so why push it? It only takes about 1 mile to reach that temp

[gid]

usually takes about 3 > 4 blocks before light goes off during the colder weather ( < 25 degrees ) . The warmer the sooner it goes away . I try to remember to keep the COLD / HOT climate control knob on coldest setting until light goes out . This closes off the HEATER CORE so the coolant flows quicker through the cooling system ( engine block , thermostat , etc. ) thus heating up the coolant quicker so sensors kick off light and help kick down auto choke . When light goes out will turn on HEAT to red postion on knob to preferred setting . If window fogs before using the heat ( heating core closed off , little radiator for heating cabin ) , I'll crack a window and use fresh air w/o any heat , usually the dash vents aimed at side windows ( side vents L/R/ ) and the middle vents aimed upward to ceiling ( aimed at rear view mirror ) . This could / should help save fuel . Hope this makes some sense . Hard to explain . :wink:

[captainm27]

I guess the emmissions thing could be a reason... hmmm.... I feel sorry for those who are in a rush, and live off a highway!

[PetersRedYaris]

Gosh I miss the green engine cool light. The light is blue on my Xb and when driving at night is easily mistaken for having your high beams on. Guess Toyota remedied that on the newer models by going to green...

[gid]

that's folklore . We use synthetic . Try not to let it idle . Just get up and go . Gets the oil ( blood ) pumpin' . Thus quicker heat .

[gid]

there's always a thin layer on internal parts . PENNZOIL Platinum claims to have adaptive molecules that adhere to engine parts , others :iono: .

[gid]

nah . You're fine .

[TheSilkySmooth]

there's always a thin layer on internal parts . PENNZOIL Platinum claims to have adaptive molecules that adhere to engine parts , others :iono: . GID - I think this is a marketing thing - the adaptive molecules claim. Viscosity index improver polymers, used by nearly all oil formulators, ball up when cold to decrease apparant viscosity then 'unwind' like a cat in the sun when they are heated up. I think Pennziol is claiming their molecules can 're-form' if they get chopped up - thus helping to maintain viscosity over tyhe oil life. You could do a patent search to try and find the adaptive molecule VI improver.
But remember - VI improver are NOT lubricant and when they break down the form varnish and sludge. Thus the reasoning to use a 10-30 true synthetic that has NO VI improvers, and doesnt need any. This will eliminate sludge and greatly extend oil life.