Are camber bolts needed after installing springs?

[CtrlAltDefeat]

I'm about to install some Tanabe DF210 springs and was told that I'll need an alignment after the springs settle (after a couple weeks) because the lowered stance will give you bad camber and your tires will wear unevenly and wear out fast. Are camber bolts (http://shop.microimageonline.com/product.sc?categoryId=4&productId=72) needed to fix the camber problem? A friend of mine said something would need "slotting" to fix it. If I don't get camber bolts, will the "slotting" be expensive? Anybody know?

[smofskra]

i highly doubt it. im willing to bet that 98% of people on this forum that have lowered their cars do not have camber bolts. just get an alignment and you will be good.

[thebarber]

likely a good idea on a drop more than 1.25"

could end up w/ camber wear on your tires...

but whats more expensive $35 for camber bolts to get the correct alignment or 2 new tires in 15k miles?

[ZING]

Just an extra precaution isnt it? I doubt a difference would be made, unless someone can explain how it would?


And glad you made up your mind, hope you dont regret it hehe.

[33OH]

I just got mine aligned and I use DF210's. I haven't noticed any camber issues and it's been a year.

[Morgan]

I have the trd springs and camber bolts... but its intentional. I got them specifically to give me more negative camber, sure I have to buy more tires but the extra grip is worth it.

A moderate drop will produce some negative camber but the stock bolts do have room for adjustment, any good alignment shop can put the geometry back pretty close to stock specifications.

[anonymous user]

Yes, it's always good to get an alignment after changing springs. Camber bolts only allow for more - or + camber, as Morgan stated. The rears use shims to adjust camber.
If you have a friend who is a fanatical racer, they could probably do an alignment for you, with all the proper tools and gadgets.

[MUSKOKA800]

After installing my TRD suspension the alignment shop did need to install camber bolts to correct the front camber to factory spec.

[CtrlAltDefeat]

if the struts need "slotting" what does that mean? Would that cost extra?

[PetersRedYaris]

if the struts need "slotting" what does that mean? Would that cost extra?

I believe that just means ovalizing out the holes in the struts where the factory camber bolts are placed. This allows for more movement and more adjustability in terms of camber while not having to buy new camber bolts. If done correctly it is a perfectly acceptable way to overcome the camber adjustment issue. In addition, struts are wear replacment items, so they're going to get replaced in the future anyway...

[cali yaris]

^ this is correct. Camber bolts are just a way to adjust camber without having to modify any other part. They also offer a greater range of adjustment. The ones I stock go +1.75 to -1.75.

But as other have noted, you should be able to get very close to factory spec even with lowering springs installed.

[CtrlAltDefeat]

ok then I'll just get the alignment after I install the springs, and hope it all works out:smile:

[ddongbap]

Having slight camber doesn't ruin your tread life. It will be probably only a smidge shorter.

[Tamago]

Having slight camber doesn't ruin your tread life. It will be probably only a smidge shorter.

agreed. if you rotate, or even flip, your tires regularly you'll be fine

what kills tires is excessive toe

remember, folks, because you have trailing arm suspension in the rear, any "built in" camber set by the factory (and believe me, there's built in camber) is turned into "toe in" when you've lowered your car. lowering a trailing arm suspended car almost always leads to more understeer then you experienced pre-lowering. a swaybar can help trick the rear into rotating, but the best thing you can do for the rear end of a yaris after lowering is to get shims to correct that excessive toe-in created by lowering.

[phenoyz]

agreed. if you rotate, or even flip, your tires regularly you'll be fine

what kills tires is excessive toe

remember, folks, because you have trailing arm suspension in the rear, any "built in" camber set by the factory (and believe me, there's built in camber) is turned into "toe in" when you've lowered your car. lowering a trailing arm suspended car almost always leads to more understeer then you experienced pre-lowering. a swaybar can help trick the rear into rotating, but the best thing you can do for the rear end of a yaris after lowering is to get shims to correct that excessive toe-in created by lowering.


planning to lower my car...plan to get springs and sway bar
what is SHIMS? do i need that too
thx

[Tamago]

planning to lower my car...plan to get springs and sway bar
what is SHIMS? do i need that too
thx

shims mount between your axle and hub. most alignment shops have them. they're unfortunately usually made from plastic though.

i corrected by putting a stainless washer between the hub and axle, installed on the lower "front" bolt. i'm currently running about 1/16" of toe OUT in the rear. the washer thickness was .058.