Help! I broke my engine!

[CtrlAltDefeat]

After installing my NST underdrive pulley I was trying to move the alternator back into position to re-tension the belt when the rubber mallet I was using slipped and broke the connector off of this thing mounted to the block just above and to the right of the alternator! I took it out to take get a better look at it... Does any one know what this is? It looks like some sort of solenoid or valve with oil all over the end that goes in the block.I was able to straighten the tabs and push the broken piece back together but there were to tiny wires that I think were broken... The engine started after I put everything back together, but the check engine light came on... I hope what ever it is, it's not expensive, because I'm pretty sure it's not covered by warranty...:brokenheart:

[eTiMaGo]

I believe that is related to the VVT-i system, an activator of sorts.

[CtrlAltDefeat]

any idea how much it costs?

[eTiMaGo]

no idea, dude... tried to track down the part number but no luck

[Yawesh]

After installing my NST underdrive pulley I was trying to move the alternator back into position to re-tension the belt when the rubber mallet I was using slipped and broke the connector off of this thing mounted to the block just above and to the right of the alternator! I took it out to take get a better look at it... Does any one know what this is? It looks like some sort of solenoid or valve with oil all over the end that goes in the block.I was able to straighten the tabs and push the broken piece back together but there were to tiny wires that I think were broken... The engine started after I put everything back together, but the check engine light came on... I hope what ever it is, it's not expensive, because I'm pretty sure it's not covered by warranty...:brokenheart:

oh boy, does the car still drive? maybe you can try disconnecting battery overnight, it could clear the engine light.

ur next car - no mods to engine/related until after warranty!

[contraband831]

:eek: OUCH!

I know there are few mechanics on YW, try contacting YarisSedan, he may be able to help you out :iono:

[Tamago]

i may have this part in my hand $80 shipped

[Black Yaris]

either get Tamago's or I would salvage yard hunt

[CtrlAltDefeat]

well it starts ok don't know if it will drive ok, if it does I'm going to go check what that check engine light means and look for a junkyard... I assume any 1NZ-FE will work out of a xA xB or other 1.5 yaris...

[CtrlAltDefeat]

ur next car - no mods to engine/related until after warranty!

deal!

[Shroomster]

looks like oil control valve assembly >>>>LINK<<<< (http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_2007_TOYOTA_YARIS_NCP91L-AGPRKA_1104.html?hl=15678A)


if that is the case.....I don't know if that is just the price for the screen on the end of that or what....I would hope it's for the whole piece...

if anything I'd print this diagram out and show whoever that location...

[jonismyname]

http://www.scribd.com/doc/8679168/2007-Toyota-Yaris-Repair-Manual-12-Lubrication
paste lu-14
camshaft oil control valve.
sounds important.
im still looking for a part # for ya

[jonismyname]

http://www.scribd.com/doc/8677989/2007-Toyota-Yaris-Repair-Manual-02-Service-Specifications
page 4 gives you resistance specs. maybe some solder and a small iron can get you running again, and you would be able to check it. maybe a temp or if part is pricey...

[jonismyname]

http://www.pressroom.com.au/pressroom/sample/presskits/echokit.htm

cut and pasted interesting bit below

Toyota Echo’s VVT-i is a computer controlled and oil-pressure activated push- push type system.

The engine ECU can command the system to advance or retard the inlet camshaft timing, thereby providing for faster response.

The hardware is a camshaft timing oil control valve mounted adjacent to the inlet camshaft gear wheel and a VVT-i controller mechanism built onto the inlet camshaft timing gear.

The camshaft timing oil control valve is a spool valve, controlled via a coil and plunger by the engine ECU.

It can signal "advance", "hold" or "retard". The VVT-i controller consists of a housing on the front of the timing wheel, driven from the timing chain, and a four-bladed vane coupled with the intake camshaft.

When the engine ECU requires a change in inlet timing, it signals the oil control valve to provide oil pressure to either the advance or retard side of the four vane chambers.

A locking pin in the controller locks the camshaft timing in the maximum retard position for engine start-up and immediately after start-up (until oil pressure is established) to prevent any knocking noise.

[YarisSedan]

Looks like some sort of cam sensor. I would say its very important.

[CtrlAltDefeat]

It is the camshaft timing oil control valve assembly. part# 11101J According to toyodiy.com (http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_2007_TOYOTA_YARIS_NCP91L-AGPRKA_1104.html?hl=15678A) it's $103.72 But I think I can get it from a local salvage yard for a lot cheaper... any ways now I know what it is and where I can get i... Thank you so much for your help, you have no idea how much I appreciate it!:thumbup: :bow: :respekt: :headbang: :thumbsup: :smile:

[Tamago]

It is the camshaft timing oil control valve assembly. part# 11101J According to toyodiy.com (http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_2007_TOYOTA_YARIS_NCP91L-AGPRKA_1104.html?hl=15678A) it's $103.72 But I think I can get it from a local salvage yard for a lot cheaper... any ways now I know what it is and where I can get i... Thank you so much for your help, you have no idea how much I appreciate it!:thumbup: :bow: :respekt: :headbang: :thumbsup: :smile:


not a bad price

i'll do it for $50 shipped.. save you the trouble of hunting at the salvage yard?

[Tamago]

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/fatherdutami/forsale/noname3.jpg

[Yawesh]

It is the camshaft timing oil control valve assembly. part# 11101J According to toyodiy.com (http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_2007_TOYOTA_YARIS_NCP91L-AGPRKA_1104.html?hl=15678A) it's $103.72 But I think I can get it from a local salvage yard for a lot cheaper... any ways now I know what it is and where I can get i... Thank you so much for your help, you have no idea how much I appreciate it!:thumbup: :bow: :respekt: :headbang: :thumbsup: :smile:

phew, luckily you didn't take it for a spin......a camshaft timing oil control valve........not too familar but if you actually drove it, the engine might not be in good shape.

anyway, best of luck and hopefully everything is ok. but honestly, if you are not too familar reinstalling this part, get professional help!

[at3GG]

see? you get paper with his name on it too!

[Tamago]

see? you get paper with his name on it too!

common forum practice to prove it's my part, not a picture i found online

[CtrlAltDefeat]

phew, luckily you didn't take it for a spin......a camshaft timing oil control valve........not too familar but if you actually drove it, the engine might not be in good shape.

anyway, best of luck and hopefully everything is ok. but honestly, if you are not too familar reinstalling this part, get professional help!

actually it's my DD and I had to drive it.. It doesn't seem to be doing too bad.. as far as installing it its about as simple as a spark plug...

[CtrlAltDefeat]

well with the plastic stuck back together you cant tell it's broken... I think I might take it into the dealer and play dumb... "The check engine just came on and I brought it in under warranty..." maybe they'll think it just failed...:iono:

[AlexNet0]

if you want to ship it to me Ill apoxy the plastics back together and re-solder the wires back on for you if you still have them. shouldnt be more than a few bucks USPS

[CtrlAltDefeat]

if you want to ship it to me Ill apoxy the plastics back together and re-solder the wires back on for you if you still have them. shouldnt be more than a few bucks USPS

I doubt it could be soldered together the wires are about as thick as a hair and mostly embedded in plastic... the crack in the plastic cracked through the wires... I think it might worth the gamble to take it in and play dumb...

[Altitude]

If I were you I'd pay the $50 to Tamago and be done with it. I don't think you'll be able to slide this one past the dealer.

[CtrlAltDefeat]

not a bad price

i'll do it for $50 shipped.. save you the trouble of hunting at the salvage yard?

I appreciate your offer, but I'm going to have to think about this first... I'll PM you when I decide... thanks! :smile:

[CtrlAltDefeat]

If I were you I'd pay the $50 to Tamago and be done with it. I don't think you'll be able to slide this one past the dealer.

Yea I know... it's a tough decision... I wonder what the dealer would do if they found out...

[AlexNet0]

I doubt it could be soldered together the wires are about as thick as a hair and mostly embedded in plastic... the crack in the plastic cracked through the wires... I think it might worth the gamble to take it in and play dumb...

I solder on surface mount motherboard capacitors and laptop AC jacks for work, as well as odd jobs all the time, Im pretty sure I could do it. Keep us posted regardless. If you end up buying tamago's then Ill send you a few bucks paypal if you will ship it to me anyway.

[darkmoon87]

Dont even take the chance of taking it down to the dealer for something you can pay Tamago $50 bux and replace. The risk is too high. If they found out that u were playing around with the engine and broke it, they might put a note down under your VIN and may void your drivetrain warrenty altogether. Or at least, you will have many disadvantages in the future when you bring the car to dealership regarding any drivetrain issue.

[Tamago]

i can do next day air for another 10 bucks. you'll have the part on tuesday instead of thursday

[contraband831]

^^^ I would take Tamago's deal, i would NOT deal with the dealer on this one.

[TheRealEnth]

50 is good

[Shroomster]

Tamago is getting redemption points for this; help him and yourself DAMNIT!

[Altitude]

If you take it to the dealer they're going to know it didn't fail on its own. I'll bet the failure rate of that part is near nil, and it looks to me like some of the metal casing got bent when you accidentally wailed on it.

They'll be pissed and charge you not only for the part but for the diagnosis, labor and prolly some other fees. Not to mention they'll always treat you with suspicion in the future.

$60 next day air is a BARGAIN.

[2006fronty]

You really should just buy the part from Tamago, I think it'll save you a lot of hassle by avoiding the dealer .

[eTiMaGo]

Hey... hey! I'm not selling that! :biggrin:

[ZING]

^^ hahah

[Tamago]

lol that's classic

[RagnaCaT]

Dropping off that $60 deal is going to cost him a ton at the DEALER....

[CtrlAltDefeat]

Hey... hey! I'm not selling that! :biggrin:
hey Timago Tamago it's all the same thing! :bellyroll:


Any ways, I went ahead and bought it from the stealer for $88 shipped (I told them my friend broke his on his '05 xB when replacing the belt :biggrin: )... I really appreciate all of your help, especially Tamago's offer and jonismyname for helping me find the part number... also for future reference the exact part number is 15330-21011 .(in case any one else ever needed it) If any of you need any help with any thing, let me know! I'm best with computers and I do a little programing/html on the side... If you in Indiana I could maybe help you with you cars (but obviously I'm an amateur :redface: ) So thanks a lot!

[Tamago]

hey Timago Tamago it's all the same thing! :bellyroll:


Any ways, I went ahead and bought it from the stealer for $88 shipped (I told them my friend broke his on his '05 xB when replacing the belt :biggrin: )... I really appreciate all of your help, especially Tamago's offer and jonismyname for helping me find the part number... also for future reference the exact part number is 15330-21011 .(in case any one else ever needed it) If any of you need any help with any thing, let me know! I'm best with computers and I do a little programing/html on the side... If you in Indiana I could maybe help you with you cars (but obviously I'm an amateur :redface: ) So thanks a lot!

so you gave your business to a dealership instead of a fellow YW member :thumbdown:

i really could have used that cash right now lol

[CtrlAltDefeat]

so you gave your business to a dealership instead of a fellow YW member :thumbdown:

i really could have used that cash right now lol

I'm sorry I didn't know :iono: ... got any thing else you wanna sell? :biggrin:

[ddongbap]

Its his decision. You shouldn't be giving him flack for a semi-nobody, to him, over a known dealer.

[Tamago]

Its his decision. You shouldn't be giving him flack for a semi-nobody, to him, over a known dealer.

to him, yes, but to YW?

i've sold hundreds of dollars of stuff here

[CtrlAltDefeat]

to him, yes, but to YW?

i've sold hundreds of dollars of stuff here

In my own defense, how would I know that? No offense, but I don't know you from Adam... I'm not saying any thing about you or your character, but I'm pretty new here and not quite comfortable yet with the people here... I can't say I made a good decision, but the way I saw it, this is my daily driver and only means of transport. I spent about $28 more for a brand new part, that I knew for a fact would work, in about the same amount of time. One might say modding your DD isn't a good idea, but the call of the mod was too strong. :drool: I do feel bad I didn't buy it from you, but it was an important part of my car which I couldn't afford to risk... Now if you have any thing else to sell I would definitely think about it... I do appreciate all your help, and hope you're not really pissed off at me...

[CtrlAltDefeat]

welp, I got it, and got it installed tonight... was already lubed so it popped right in... The drama, however happened when I was putting the bolts back in. The POS ratchet didn't hold onto the socket and it freaking dropped into the engine! I'm starting to think I'm not cut out for this shit... First it fell behind the alternator, then I knocked it down into the hollow of one of the pulleys. I wasn't able to grab it so i knocked it hard trying to knock it onto the floor and it bounced 2 or 3 times and landed somewhere else in the engine! I was like WTF?? How many possible places could it have hit in the short distance between the pulley and the floor??? I couldn't start it for fear it would launch the socket from a pulley and break something so I had to freaking jack the thing up to look under it. I finally found it stuck between the oil pan and the body work... Jesus! Seriously I've never been this clumsy before... Virgin mechanic nervousness??

Any ways When I started it up the engine chugged for a moment but then seemed to straighten up... I turned it off and started it again without any more chugging ... The CEL stayed on but I assume I'll be able to get it cleared at Autozone... I think I'm done with the engine mods for a while... Hope my spring install goes better...

[Tamago]

I do appreciate all your help, and hope you're not really pissed off at me...

not at all buddy, not at all

[bzinn 1]

unhook the battery fro about 5 minutes and then hook it back up and start car,should clear the CEL

[Tamago]

unhook the battery fro about 5 minutes and then hook it back up and start car,should clear the CEL

lol

[JBIZZ]

Same thing happened to my car last night while installing NST pullies. The part is $100 at the dealer. Be very careful when working around
the alternator.

[CtrlAltDefeat]

yea, I was really freaked out when it happened to me... Thank God for YarisWorld, every one was a big help! :respekt:

[carlosh]

HI,
I have a bit of oil leak coming out this Camshaft Timing Oil (I still don't have check engine light) but I'm worry by the oil leak (not much, can be a symptom that something is not right). Will be necessary change this parts? or replace another parts or tighten any loose screws?

any feedback..

[CtrlAltDefeat]

HI,
I have a bit of oil leak coming out this Camshaft Timing Oil (I still don't have check engine light) but I'm worry by the oil leak (not much, can be a symptom that something is not right). Will be necessary change this parts? or replace another parts or tighten any loose screws?

any feedback..

Well the valve only has 1 bolt holding it in, so I suppose it could have gotten loose. You could take it out and see if the rubber O ring around the base of the valve is broken or degraded. It's not too hard to get to, with the VVTI engine cover is removed, and the cable unplugged from it. If you really want I can get better pictures of mine...

[Tamago]

Same thing happened to my car last night while installing NST pullies. The part is $100 at the dealer. Be very careful when working around
the alternator.

did you buy one from the dealer?

i still have one for sale. (no i don't)