Cold Air Intake ?

[pegcityrs]

Does anybody know where I can get a Cold Air Intake for my 2006 Toyota Yaris RS (3-door) manual. I can't find a TRD listing for it, if someone knows please help !!! Cheers.

[yariman]

Haven't seen any yet, make your own and save a bunch of cash!

[as400g33k]

look at yariman's DIY here (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80)...

[celica girl]

His is a short ram intake. Don't worry I'm sure there will be cold air intakes available soon enough. You could also write to injen, aem and companies like that to see if they will make one.

[AutoTech1]

Does anybody know where I can get a Cold Air Intake for my 2006 Toyota Yaris RS (3-door) manual. I can't find a TRD listing for it, if someone knows please help !!! Cheers.

Well considering it's a 2006 model, you may have to wait for products to come out, because it's a relatively new model.:wink: The aftermarket has to catch up with it. Give it a month I'd say. May a bit longer... I bet they have prototypes already... They just haven't brought them out.

[why?]

Considering its been out in Japan for a while now, aftermarket parts will be coming soon.

[birdy]

i can make them, but i dont have a yaris yet to make one to fit.

[AutoTech1]

i can make them, but i dont have a yaris yet to make one to fit.

Or fabricate your very own as well!:biggrin:

[echo_hrs]

I'm sure AEM will modify their current offerings for the 1NZ-FE in the Echo Hatch, and the xB for the Yaris in the near future...

[sumik]

Hopefully Injen will manufacture one, great company great products

[Master]

injen sucks. AEM is superior in quality to Injen

[AutoTech1]

injen sucks. AEM is superior in quality to Injen

Injen does not suck. You're probably saying that because AEM has a larger fan base... Both are good product manufacturers. Don't say anything, if you don't know the truth...

[Master]

i had both intakes on my is300. the injen gave me check engine lights, the tubing was much more narrow than the aem, aem intakes are usually CARB legal (but you dont' care), and the filter they give you is crap. if they both suck at something it's customer service.

assumptions are the mother of all fuck-ups...don't assume why i answered that way (although i could've been clearer the first time around)

[echo_hrs]

To each his own...

[Keej_05RS]

I thought you could get an AEM intake installed by your Toyota dealer. It was an option I could select when I bought my 2005 RS. Is it not the same for the Yaris?

[Yaris Revenge]

IMHO, all CAIs suck. I had one for my Pontiac Vibe, and all it did was make alot of noise (which despite popular belief, doesn't make it faster :wink: ). I don't care what the dynos say, if you can't feel the difference, it's not worth installing. I'm afraid when it comes to intakes, you get what you pay for, and that's why they're cheap (compared to the super/turbo charging options). I pulled mine back off and sold it.

~YR

[DJ_SpaRky]

they are designed to be used in conjuction with other mods (I/H/E) and with good tuning (AFR & Fuel Pressure) it will make a big difference.

Think about this, how much air can a straw flow compared to a garden hose? this is what you are doing, allowing for less restriction for the intake charge to contain more air & (in most cases) make more power.

[ricko]

How much HP do they claim for CAI anyway????? Are they not more for increased gas mileage???? I am new to mods on cars, so I need some help here.

[DJ_SpaRky]

More air means less gas, so better MPG, but in most cases they allow enough air to let the motor to make more HP.

[ricko]

Thanks for the info, but how much HP?????? With bikes the difference is very small, although it really improved throttle response. BTW that was a carbed bike (Honda 900F).

[DJ_SpaRky]

it varies greatly, but the avg. is about 5hp.

[ricko]

Thanks again.

[Yaris Revenge]

More air means less gas, so better MPG, but in most cases they allow enough air to let the motor to make more HP.

Well, that's not quite right. :rolleyes:

More air in itself won't lead to better mileage for new cars because the CPU will balance it all out. Extra air means extra fuel into the system because the air/fuel ratio will always be maintained. The only way around that is modding your CPU, but that's a different story for a different post.

The cold air intake has 2 purposes: Colder air in, and less restriction. Less restriction simply allows the engine to pull the air in easier, which reduces engine drag.

Pulling colder air in causes your CPU to to add extra fuel. At cooler temperatures the fuel mist sprayed by the injectors collects into larger droplets. If the air-to-fuel ratio remains the same while the droplets are fewer-but-larger, combustion is not as efficient. To compensate for this, the computer simply releases more spray. This is where the extra power comes from- the more gas burned, the more power released. It's not much extra power, but some people think it's worth it. I researched these things for months before I bought one... that's why I was so disappointed by the performance results.

Definitely stay away from the short ram air intakes. They're much less restrictive, but pull in some of the hottest air under the hood. I've never read a post that didn't complain about actual loss of power after installing.

~YR

Oh yeah... most people do report 3-5hp gain(5 is the absolute max). But in the great scheme of things, you won't really notice 5 horses when you're already working with 103. I seriously doubt anyone can test drive a car with 130hp and one with 135hp and know there was any difference in acceleration, except in their imagination. 3-5hp is the equivalent of a push lawnmower, and they stall out in thick grass. :biggrin:

[DJ_SpaRky]

Air makes HP, not gas. Why are Turbos & S/C so common?

yes, the CPU will try to maintain a Stoich AFR, but it shouldn't have to add more fuel to the mix, the same amount of fuel with slightly more air will still be a Stoich mix.

[jcove]

Well, that's not quite right. :rolleyes:

More air in itself won't lead to better mileage for new cars because the CPU will balance it all out. Extra air means extra fuel into the system because the air/fuel ratio will always be maintained. The only way around that is modding your CPU, but that's a different story for a different post.

The cold air intake has 2 purposes: Colder air in, and less restriction. Less restriction simply allows the engine to pull the air in easier, which reduces engine drag.

Pulling colder air in causes your CPU to to add extra fuel. At cooler temperatures the fuel mist sprayed by the injectors collects into larger droplets. If the air-to-fuel ratio remains the same while the droplets are fewer-but-larger, combustion is not as efficient. To compensate for this, the computer simply releases more spray. This is where the extra power comes from- the more gas burned, the more power released. It's not much extra power, but some people think it's worth it. I researched these things for months before I bought one... that's why I was so disappointed by the performance results.

Definitely stay away from the short ram air intakes. They're much less restrictive, but pull in some of the hottest air under the hood. I've never read a post that didn't complain about actual loss of power after installing.

~YR

Oh yeah... most people do report 3-5hp gain(5 is the absolute max). But in the great scheme of things, you won't really notice 5 horses when you're already working with 103. I seriously doubt anyone can test drive a car with 130hp and one with 135hp and know there was any difference in acceleration, except in their imagination. 3-5hp is the equivalent of a push lawnmower, and they stall out in thick grass. :biggrin:

I don't quite agree with you here. The air coming in won't be cold enough to do what you're saying. It's only a small difference, but the advantage, like you said is less restriction and a little more air. Putting on an exhaust package will add to the increase in horsepower. It won't mean much to us, but it will give a little extra spunk and a little better gas mileage. Tuning the car is a must. That's the biggest misconception with "bolt-on" parts. A little time and a little bit of money can make huge differences. Don't bother putting any parts on if you don't intend to tune the car.

[ricko]

Help me here, I have only a basic understanding of Physics, Thermal Dynamics, and CPU's.
First of all air doesn't make HP, nor does gasoline. HP is the result of the rapid expansion of gases during the combustion process, which lacking an escape route (assuming of course your valve timing is correct) force the piston downward, with that motion then being converted to a reciprocal motion by the blah blah blah ....... you get the picture right. So more HP is in fact produced by the optimum mixture of AIR and FUEL (both being required for combustion) being ignited at the correct time by the spark. Increasing one or the other without achieving the optimum mixture and ignition timing, does not increase HP or mileage, and in fact may decrease one or both. I THINK the potential advantage of a turbo-c or super-c is that more air and more fuel can be rammed into a given space (the cyllinder) because air compresses under pressure. Achieving this optimum mixture of air and fuel in the old days of carbs, was often done through an arcane process called the plug chop, which I have been told, fuel injection and CPU's have made unnecessary. So here's my first question ...... Can the CPU in our car automatically compensate for a relatively small change in the system like a CAI?????? Secondly if the source of the air is outside the car, would not the temperature difference be significant enough to make a difference???
I guess this is why I always let other more knowledgeable people figure out the tough questions for me, and increasing HP in any engine seems like a pretty complex question with no simple solution.
BTW when I was racing those old motorcycles (the ones with carbs), we would often trade top end HP, for a little more punch coming out of the corners anyway. So ....... does anybody have any ideas to widden the powerband, and give our little 1.5's a little more punch.

[jcove]

Help me here, I have only a basic understanding of Physics, Thermal Dynamics, and CPU's.
First of all air doesn't make HP, nor does gasoline. HP is the result of the rapid expansion of gases during the combustion process, which lacking an escape route (assuming of course your valve timing is correct) force the piston downward, with that motion then being converted to a reciprocal motion by the blah blah blah ....... you get the picture right. So more HP is in fact produced by the optimum mixture of AIR and FUEL (both being required for combustion) being ignited at the correct time by the spark. Increasing one or the other without achieving the optimum mixture and ignition timing, does not increase HP or mileage, and in fact may decrease one or both. I THINK the potential advantage of a turbo-c or super-c is that more air and more fuel can be rammed into a given space (the cyllinder) because air compresses under pressure. Achieving this optimum mixture of air and fuel in the old days of carbs, was often done through an arcane process called the plug chop, which I have been told, fuel injection and CPU's have made unnecessary. So here's my first question ...... Can the CPU in our car automatically compensate for a relatively small change in the system like a CAI?????? Secondly if the source of the air is outside the car, would not the temperature difference be significant enough to make a difference???
I guess this is why I always let other more knowledgeable people figure out the tough questions for me, and increasing HP in any engine seems like a pretty complex question with no simple solution.
BTW when I was racing those old motorcycles (the ones with carbs), we would often trade top end HP, for a little more punch coming out of the corners anyway. So ....... does anybody have any ideas to widden the powerband, and give our little 1.5's a little more punch.

First of all, I'm not an expert. With that out of the way, here's what I've learned. I think other's can explain better, but it's a start:
The "ideal" mix is usually a range. If you run a little lean, you have more HP, but have the chance of blowing up the engine. Basically, putting on a CAI leans the mix, but just a little. The computer may adjust slightly, but with our cars, I don't think there's enough of a change to really do a lot. It will still be in the mix range, just a little to the lean end, but not enough to hurt the engine. You sound very knowledgable, so I think you're not giving yourself enough credit. The fuel injection process is similar to a carb engine, it's just metered by the computer. With the CAI, the real advantage is when you are running higher RPM, like on the highway. You use less fuel, because the engine doesn't need to pull it as hard because of less restrictions. It's getting the air that it should get, not just what it can pull through the air box. One of the main objectives of a stock airbox is to keep the intake noise to a minimum. If you are changing the intake it will be louder. Another thing is the computer will learn after a while. This is a good thing. It will adjust the A/F mixture based on not only the intake, but the 02 sensor in the exhaust. Again, if you don't tune, basically take it to someone who knows what they are doing and get them to either reflash the CPU or add a fuel computer such as Greddy eManage or Apexi (?) and make the adjustments on a dyno and/or take it out for a run while recording what the car is doing, then you will not see the positive benifit you should see. You may see a little change for better or worse, but when the car is tuned then it will reach the full potential. Sorry for my long rant. I just got up and I'm really tired. My mind is jumping around from topic to topic. Hopefully I'm making sense of I'm trying to say.

[DJ_SpaRky]

OK, OK, OK....

1. ...the rapid expansion of gases...like those found in AIR (mainly Oxygen). ...If you run a little lean, you have more HP, exactly.
2. EFI is nothing like carb'ed, carb'ed has to atomize before it is burned, this is not always a good thing. it's like trying to rinse your car by splashing using your hands. With EFI it already in droplets & already has force behind it to allow it to mix quickly. it's like using a spray nozzle on the hose. BTW there are Carb'ed ECU Controled enigines.
3. you should gain thru all RPMs, but the gain is need on the low end, the 1NZ is torquey but not enough.
4. technically, you're not gaining HP, you are freeing it up (from being lost due to friction or heat)
5. (as I mentioned earlier) Intakes are best use in combo with a Header & exhaust (including a hi-flow cat or cat delete)
6. ECU Flash would be nice, but most likely not going to be an option. I don't think that Toyota uses EEPROMs. a Piggyback should work fine, they modify the signal to make the ECU lean out or rich out the mix, these are best when used with a Wide-Band O2 sensor & a Lamda/AFR meter. BTW both the GRedy & the Apex'i SAFC will not work on Scions, so they will most likely not work on the 1NZ Yaris/Vitz either, look into the PE CamCon, it does AFR controll & VVTi Control too.

OK, I'm done for now.

[why?]

From all the technical stuff in this thread. (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47)

The Yaris uses an Air/Fuel ratio sensor, a heated oxygen sensor, a Mass Air Flow Meter, and an Intake Air tempreture sensor just to see how the air coming into the engine is.

Odds are in can compensate for a small mod like a cai completely itself without any other help.

[ricko]

Thanks to you all for the info, a lot to digest, but I think I have a better understanding. It would seem there is no easy solution that can satisfy all eventualities in the HP/torgue/mileage/powerband equation, but if we are clear in our expectations of the results of any mods, we are more likely to be happy with them.

[jcove]

OK, OK, OK....

1. ...the rapid expansion of gases...like those found in AIR (mainly Oxygen). ...If you run a little lean, you have more HP, exactly.
2. EFI is nothing like carb'ed, carb'ed has to atomize before it is burned, this is not always a good thing. it's like trying to rinse your car by splashing using your hands. With EFI it already in droplets & already has force behind it to allow it to mix quickly. it's like using a spray nozzle on the hose. BTW there are Carb'ed ECU Controled enigines.
3. you should gain thru all RPMs, but the gain is need on the low end, the 1NZ is torquey but not enough.
4. technically, you're not gaining HP, you are freeing it up (from being lost due to friction or heat)
5. (as I mentioned earlier) Intakes are best use in combo with a Header & exhaust (including a hi-flow cat or cat delete)
6. ECU Flash would be nice, but most likely not going to be an option. I don't think that Toyota uses EEPROMs. a Piggyback should work fine, they modify the signal to make the ECU lean out or rich out the mix, these are best when used with a Wide-Band O2 sensor & a Lamda/AFR meter. BTW both the GRedy & the Apex'i SAFC will not work on Scions, so they will most likely not work on the 1NZ Yaris/Vitz either, look into the PE CamCon, it does AFR controll & VVTi Control too.

OK, I'm done for now.

The Scion TC has a reflash from TRD for the supercharger. I also know that Greddy piggy back does work with Scions, because you can buy a supercharger from Greddy that comes with the eManage system for the Xa.

I don't know about a reflash for the 1NZ, but the Greddy system will work very nicely, from what I've heard, both for the NA and supercharged engine.

I'm not trying to start any problems, just stating what I know. I fully admit, I don't know everything, but I read what ever I can get my hands on and I've have limited working knowledge on top of that.

[DJ_SpaRky]

OK, the eManage was designed specifically for Scion xA/xB, that's why it works, but the older "universal" most likely won't work.

Same here, no issues, just giving info. IMO Get one, then get a Header & then exhaust, then get a CamCon & a wideband O2, you're set for tuning.

[Yaris Revenge]

I don't quite agree with you here. The air coming in won't be cold enough to do what you're saying. It's only a small difference, but the advantage, like you said is less restriction and a little more air. Putting on an exhaust package will add to the increase in horsepower. It won't mean much to us, but it will give a little extra spunk and a little better gas mileage. Tuning the car is a must. That's the biggest misconception with "bolt-on" parts. A little time and a little bit of money can make huge differences. Don't bother putting any parts on if you don't intend to tune the car.

Yeah, that whole droplet size thing I was talking about, I'm just spouting what I've read. It's really all a big mystery to me... I'm by no means an expert on any of it. There's about a million different ideas about what exactly CAI does, is supposed to to, etc... I just picked the one that I found the most on and that made sense. :smile:

I agree wholeheartedly with the tuning issue. Just found out a little too late. I don't know how to do it myself, and have no idea where to take it (haven't found any local tuning shops... if they're around, they don't advertise). I plan on doing it right on my next vehicle... my Vibe already has too many miles on it to waste the money.

~YR

[jcove]

OK, the eManage was designed specifically for Scion xA/xB, that's why it works, but the older "universal" most likely won't work.

Same here, no issues, just giving info. IMO Get one, then get a Header & then exhaust, then get a CamCon & a wideband O2, you're set for tuning.

:headbang: :thumbup:

We're all good! Can't wait to get some actual performance stuff on my car, but I'm holding out for a bit.

[AutoTech1]

i had both intakes on my is300. the injen gave me check engine lights, the tubing was much more narrow than the aem, aem intakes are usually CARB legal (but you dont' care), and the filter they give you is crap. if they both suck at something it's customer service.

assumptions are the mother of all fuck-ups...don't assume why i answered that way (although i could've been clearer the first time around)

Who cares. Wopdedoo. One car. That's like trying a girl out for the first time who's had sex more than you and saying they all suck just because you're not her first. :-P You're still wrong...

[yariman]

Leaner mixture gives more power?? Freeing up h:wink: orse power?? Go for a run around the block. Now tape your mouth closed and plug one nostrel and go for the same run. That's the same effect the engine has when breathing through a resticted air-intake. Get back to the basics gang, and richer mixtures give more power.

[DJ_SpaRky]

Leaner mixture gives more power?? Freeing up h:wink: orse power?? Go for a run around the block. Now tape your mouth closed and plug one nostrel and go for the same run. That's the same effect the engine has when breathing through a resticted air-intake. Get back to the basics gang, and richer mixtures give more power.

a leaner mixture will give more power, try running around the block with your mouth full of water & then try it without, which is easier?

the combustion of air & gasoline causes the rapid expansion of gases (fumes) that cause the piston to be moved down, the more gases in the camber already the less the have to be "created" by combustion. That's why Turbos & S/C can work on a un-tuned car, but to keep a Soitch AFR you have to add more fuel to match the amount of air. it all has to do with compression, more air in the camber, then it can compress, In short, a leaner Stoich mixture will give more power.

[ricko]

My experience with racing (granted it was motorcycles with carbs not FI), was that you would run the engine as LEAN as possible, without detonation.
That's why we did repeated plug chops. A lean mixture meant more horsepower. Is modern FI running on some principle I don't understand????? Please note ........ I didn't tune the engine, I only rode the thing.

[yariman]

Stoichiometric AFR or 14.7:1 gives the best performance with the lowest produced emissions. The best economy can be obtained with AFR around 16 to 18:1. Leaner mixtures produce higher temps, burnt pistons and valves. The best power is usually obtained with AFR around 11.8 to 13.0 and that's the facts. More fuel, more power.

[Ron]

more fuel only results in more power, because you can shove more air into the combustion chamber to burn the fuel. that's the basis of my understanding. too much fuel, and it doesnt get fully used in the combustion chamber, and you lose power. an 11.8-13 AFR sounds like something that a car with forced induction would want to be tuned to, ideally, to provide some headroom for detonation on a hot day, etc etc.

yes, leaner mixtures result in higher temps. but burnt pistons and valves, no. only if it is TOO lean, not tuned properly, and running outside of the parameters set by the ECM. when you run too lean and get detonation, the knock sensor picks that up and retards your timing, so you lose power.

[yariman]

I am not referring to what the sensors and ECM do etc. The ECM will strive to keep to 14.7:1 which you should know is the best AFR for performance and emissions. I am only stating the fact and not looking for any arguments that a richer mixture produces more power. Thats why performance cars smell like a gas station when you are next to them.

[jcove]

We're a little off topic. This is about the cold air intake right. I'm guilty of it too, but we should be posting about any new info regarding cold air intakes.

[birdy]

I will be making a custom one for mine that will kinda look stock but it won't be.

Like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/superbirdy/cai.jpg

there is a tube that you fabricate to run down and suck in the air coming in fender and then you upgrade the tube going to the intake to a silicone one that drops temps and is bigger to suck in more air.

[yariman]

Right on Birdy! Stick a K&N in there when they are available and remove the HC screen. Also you can replace the silencer mesh behind the TB with an O ring, or just cut the mesh off of the existing one.

[jcove]

I will be making a custom one for mine that will kinda look stock but it won't be.

Like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/superbirdy/cai.jpg

there is a tube that you fabricate to run down and suck in the air coming in fender and then you upgrade the tube going to the intake to a silicone one that drops temps and is bigger to suck in more air.

Cool! Let us know how it works.

[stuffy]

what is the impact of the different temperatures on a cold air intake?

can cold air be too cold?

[jcove]

what is the impact of the different temperatures on a cold air intake?

can cold air be too cold?

No, not really. Colder air is denser, so more air can get in the cylinder if it's colder. That's why a snow machine runs so much better when it's -30 than when it's -10. Someone else could prolly put it a little more technical. I'm a little groggy this morning.

[DJ_SpaRky]

Nice Idea birdy, I like the Short Ram Intakes myself, & a (functional) hood scoop, but just a small one.