Belt Part #'s For Blitz Supercharger

[whooppee777]

I need a new belt and local car part stores dont seem to understand me when i am screaming at them "MAKE AND MODEL WON'T WORK IN MY SITUATION!"

i know that somewhere on the forum a few guys with the blitz kit had posted part numbers for the correct sized belts but for the life of me i cant find the threads.

help please

[LtNoogie]

Goodyear Gatorback 8PK1675 (80660) or Duralast 8PK1675 (80660)

Split them down the middle to make two identical belts. That way you'll have a spare.

[whooppee777]

i could have sworn the camell or one of the other boosted members had a part number for a 4 ribbed 65 inch belt.

splitting the belt down the middle just doesnt sit right in my gut.

[LtNoogie]

This is what Camelll wrote to me during my install:

"I just use the goodyear gatorback belt from autozone part # 4060660 and alternatively you can use Gates Pt#:K060660."


If I'm not mistaken, both of these part numbers are for 6-rib belts. Either way, he would have had to cut off two ribs and and throw it away. Doc and I figure, why not cut an 8-rib belt in half and keep the other half as a spare?

[PETERPOOP]

I just cut my 6 ribbed one with a razorblade. Works fine. No squeeling anymore like the one that came with the blitz kit.

[Doc Zaius]

Ditto ditto ditto!

[Jerkratt]

Gatorback 8PK1675 is what i used today... and its a $hit ton better no more slippage.... the tensener pully was maxed all the way down with the belt blitz gave me...

[cali yaris]

^ woot!

[thebarber]

i use a gatorback too, but i don't have a/c in my yaris...the belt is SIGNIFICANTLY shorter than the one that comes from blitz

4040560 4PK1420

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b339/dabarber/yaris/132_7666.jpg

[CTScott]

Hmmm. When I bought my Blitz I got a couple of gatorbacks and a couple of Bando (JDM) belts and I went with the Bando. On cold or rainy days it squeals like a pig when I first start it. I think it's time to bloody my knuckles and switch to the gatorback...

[blacksandiegovitz]

I have a brand new gator back belt i'm not gonna use 35 shipped , just saying...

[Blown_xa]

Gatorback belt is a good belt .... but not for supercharging. I used that belt for 2 days with the Blitz, then threw it in the trash can. The contact rubber is hard, and the contact surface area is less because it is treaded. It will slip, no matter how tight you make it. When it slips you WON'T hear it (with Gatorback ), if you have a boost gauge you will see what I mean.

I went through all this 6 years ago. Gates is a good belt ... try Gates. I was able to extract enough out of the Blitz supercharger that to this day, nobody has come close to the 1/4 mile times I ran with it on a stock motor. A little VHT on the belt was helpful at the strip. 10psi to redline... stock pullies.

P.S. If you do dial in a good belt, replace crank pulley key (roll pin) with a carbide steel 1/8 inch dowl. If you don't .... you will shear factory pin and have to drill it out of the crank. This is because the crank pulley sees a lot of load.

[kelevra]

This is great info, thanks fellas.
I take it you're all loving the Blitz?

[MUSKOKA800]

I've picked up at Gates Pt#:K080660 (8 rib) to slice in half and try. Will do so our next decently warm day.

[cali yaris]

I take it you're all loving the Blitz?

Yes. In all three threads. :laugh:

[Bluevitz-rs]

i use a gatorback too, but i don't have a/c in my yaris...the belt is SIGNIFICANTLY shorter than the one that comes from blitz

4040560 4PK1420

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b339/dabarber/yaris/132_7666.jpg

OMG why is that pulley SO crooked?

[Jerkratt]

If i remember correctly he had the pull on backwards and has since been fixed. Don't quote me on that tho

[MUSKOKA800]

I've picked up at Gates Pt#:K080660 (8 rib) to slice in half and try. Will do so our next decently warm day.

Ahhh! Much, much quieter now.
A pain to install but worth the grief.
Even after backing off the adjuster completely I finally had to remove the tensioner pulley in order to get belt onto all the other pulleys before twisting the tensioner pulley back under the belt and over its mounting stud.

[CrankyOldMan]

Thread necro!

My most recent belt replacement suffered a premature death this week. Don't recall off hand what it was, but I bought it from O'Riley.

The only thing that the parts store within walking distance had in stock that was close enough to work was a Gates K060663. It's about 1/8" longer than the *0660, but it holds on well at full tension adjustment. To be on the safe side, I got a Gates K080660 (8PK1676) to cut in half and leave in the boot, along with a 14mm box wrench and a 6mm allen wrench.

[Jerkratt]

I've deleted a/c so I'm able to find a 4 ribbed without cutting an 8 in half. Now I'm dealing with a chirping problem

[AzianCuz]

Did you guys get an extra pulley with the Blitz kit you guys have? Supposedly the Vitz version comes with it, mine didn't come with a pulley and the Bando 4PK1695 belt is too long.

Help...

[CTScott]

Did you guys get an extra pulley with the Blitz kit you guys have? Supposedly the Vitz version comes with it, mine didn't come with a pulley and the Bando 4PK1695 belt is too long.

Help...

No. 1695 would only be for the Vitz setup. For the Yaris with A/C, 1675 is the correct length. 1675 is generally not available as a 4PK1675, so you buy a 8PK1675 and slit it between the center ribs, thereby ending up with 2 belts for the price of one.

[AzianCuz]

Am I suppose to have two pulleys?

Will the belt suggested above fit without the secondary pulley?

My mechanic has tried the stock part that came with it and it's too long with the pulley it would fit. Please see images and let me know. I appreciate all the help.

http://s8.postimg.org/wicrk9g0h/Missing_Belt_Missing_Pulley.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/wicrk9g0h/)

http://s8.postimg.org/qg54trrkh/Wrong_Kit.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/qg54trrkh/)

[CTScott]

Am I suppose to have two pulleys?

Will the belt suggested above fit without the secondary pulley?

My mechanic has tried the stock part that came with it and it's too long with the pulley it would fit. Please see images and let me know. I appreciate all the help.

http://s8.postimg.org/wicrk9g0h/Missing_Belt_Missing_Pulley.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/wicrk9g0h/)

http://s8.postimg.org/qg54trrkh/Wrong_Kit.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/qg54trrkh/)

No - One pulley and I answered the question about the belt above.

[AzianCuz]

THanks bro-ham I will let my mechanic know.

[AzianCuz]

No. 1695 would only be for the Vitz setup. For the Yaris with A/C, 1675 is the correct length. 1675 is generally not available as a 4PK1675, so you buy a 8PK1675 and slit it between the center ribs, thereby ending up with 2 belts for the price of one.

CTScott:

The belt was cut as advised and works perfectly! Haven't turned on the car yet as we are now in the process of the electrical portion. Did you directly connect the red wire to the battery with a fuse?

[CTScott]

Yes. The red wire should be fused with a 20A fuse.

[AzianCuz]

Thanks fellas for all the help!

http://i60.tinypic.com/281saqh.jpg

[KMack]

Wait... what was that I read about replacing the Crank Pin? Is that common for this install, or just relegated to us xA owners? I have not read anything else on that. Any more insight on this?

(Sorry to bring this back to life just to thread hijack)

Ken

[Bluevitz-rs]

Wait... what was that I read about replacing the Crank Pin? Is that common for this install, or just relegated to us xA owners? I have not read anything else on that. Any more insight on this?

(Sorry to bring this back to life just to thread hijack)

Ken

It's just because of the 1NZ/2NZ crank pulley design. It's only a taper fit, so there's a chance it can spin and sheer off the stock roll pin used from factory.

[KMack]

Got it. I haven't seen this pop up in any other forum, though. Just wondering if that IS a common issue, or if everyone is just changing this up when they initially install these things. I'd rather do it right the first time, even though working on the 1NZ isn't all that difficult should I choose to change it out later.

Thanks for chiming in.

[CrankyOldMan]

It's just because of the 1NZ/2NZ crank pulley design. It's only a taper fit, so there's a chance it can spin and sheer off the stock roll pin used from factory.

I'm not sure what you mean by taper fit. It's a snug fit over the end of the crank shaft, but it's not tapered that I can see. The bolt does most of the holding, and the pin is there to keep it from slipping up to the shear load of the pin. Upgrading pins is generally a poor engineering and maintenance strategy, because the whole point of a key or pin is that it is supposed to fail before the shaft/gear/pulley/etc. If you have to keep replacing pins, then something in the system is generating more torque than was intended. In the case of the Blitz S/C, the force of the clutch engaging causes a big jerk on the belt, which can shear off the crank pulley pin. As noted by BlownXA, putting a hardened pin in there will just slot the hole in the pulley, and eventually cause a different failure mode.

[AzianCuz]

OMG! After about 02 years of researching and waiting and waiting, I finally got some 4PK1675!!!

I got excited and ordered 05 of them!!!

For anyone that's Supercharged check out my picture. I had a guy named Rick help me out, so just refer him and mention me "HENRY" and or the ORDER NUMBER, if anything :)

WEEEEEEEEEEEEE

https://s4.postimg.org/51wiixn5p/Serptine_Belts.jpg

[s3r3nity]

GATES K040560 if you have the charger and bypass/delete the A/C