change oil

[phenoyz]

how hard is it to change the oil for '08 sedan?
sorry for this question
can not find the DIY oil change here...

[aca72]

Here...
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249032

[Kaotic Lazagna]

It's cake (easy).

[phenoyz]

The most common factor in sludge buildup is mineral oils combined with a lack of maintenance by the car owner combined with harsh driving conditions. But this isn't true in all cases. For some reason, a 2005 Consumer Reports article discovered that some engines from Audi, Chrysler, Saab, Toyota, and Volkswagen appear prone to sludge almost no matter how often the oil is changed.

Toyota sludge problems

For their part, Toyota have the dubious honour of having the most complaints about sludge buildup in their engines - 3,400 at the last count. At the time of writing there is a class action suit going on against them. Details can be found at www.oilgelsettlement.com


1. General knowledge on Oils: [url]http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
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i read this from one of the articles here: is it true toyota engine are prone
to "sludge"? or only certain toyota model vehicle?

[TheSilkySmooth]

Use a real synthetic and change at 7000 miles interval you'll be good to go. Only Redline and Amsoil and are recoginisable USA made synthetics, All the others: Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum and Castrol Syntec are "FAKE" synthetics made from mineral oils using a process know as severe hydrocracking. I am about to try some Motul BMW specific formula LL01 spec 5W-30, some guys here run the MOTUL 300V Chronos racing formula. But Amsoil and Redline are prob just a good if not better. Check into it.

[TheSilkySmooth]

The thing I need to make MY oil change easy is a plastic "CUP-style" filter wrench. This makes it super easy to pull down that filter in 30 seconds without scratching a knuckle or uttering a swear word. Then I got a cheap aluminum hydraulic jack to get under there - these cars are low to the ground, so true for me coming from a Chevy Silvarado 1500 4x4.
btw you get those cup wrenches at wallyworld and autozoned and wherever - they should fit the filter you plan to use from here on out.

[1stToyota]

Use a real synthetic and change at 7000 miles interval you'll be good to go. Only Redline and Amsoil and are recoginisable USA made synthetics, All the others: Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum and Castrol Syntec are "FAKE" synthetics made from mineral oils using a process know as severe hydrocracking. I am about to try some Motul BMW specific formula LL01 spec 5W-30, some guys here run the MOTUL 300V Chronos racing formula. But Amsoil and Redline are prob just a good if not better. Check into it.

Some of those "real" oils don't have the API seal on the bottle. They claim to *exceed* API approval with superior additives, but since it doesn't actually have the API seal on the label I was just wondering if it'd cause problems with the service department. That's why I went from Amsoil HP to the fake Pennzoil Platinum :tongue: ...both listed ACEA ratings at A5/B5

And when I was checking on some Euro oils I noticed a lot of them were SL rated. That scared me also. :redface:

[TheSilkySmooth]

Ist - I understand what you mean here, my fill cap says SL so not too bad for me. I have less oil probs with the super good grp iv-v base oil blends(Motul, Total, Sikolene) I have never tried amsoil. I am a "little" worried about unsing the Motul spec. BMW LL-01 maybe having NO API rating but assuming I will have NO oiling problems, I can worry less. Hey there is no API in Europe right?

How does that pennzoil platinum feel in the motor - any thing good/bad to say just driving wise?
I was trying to stir things up because I still cant beleive you can market grp-iii mineral as synthetic. take care.

[roxy1]

Use a real synthetic and change at 7000 miles interval you'll be good to go..

or use a good conventional oil every 5k and you'll be good to go. i.e. your car will rust into an unrecognizable hunk of metal before your engine need replaced.

[supmet]

i read this from one of the articles here: is it true toyota engine are prone
to "sludge"? or only certain toyota model vehicle?

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2007/01/toyota_sludge_settlement.html

• Camry 4 cylinder from 1997-2001,
• Camry 6 cylinder from 1997-2002,
• Camry Solara 4 cylinder from 1999-2001,
• Camry Solara 6 cylinder 1999-2002,
• Sienna 6 cylinder from 1998-2002,
• Avalon 6 cylinder from 1997-2002,
• Celica 4 cylinder from 1997-1999,
• Highlander 6 cylinder from 2001-2002,
• Lexus ES 300 from 1997-2002 and
• Lexus RX 300 from 1999-2002.

[TheSilkySmooth]

or use a good conventional oil every 5k and you'll be good to go. i.e. your car will rust into an unrecognizable hunk of metal before your engine need replaced. I tried that, doesnt work for me with these new oils. Our 05 Rav4 only lasted 67K with genuine toyota motor oil OR Mobil clean 5000 and toyota filters exclusively. Cams shot, piston skirts collapsed. Previous Suzuki Aerio, 45K and all done, burning 1qt /900mi; previous mitsubishi 3.0L V6, 55K and all done, piston slap, low power, burning oil. Alll using best factory filters and premium mineral oil.
Thats why I changed my tune. And my Oil. My yaris was going down the tubes and the Motul and wix filter saved it.

[roxy1]

I tried that, doesnt work for me with these new oils. Our 05 Rav4 only lasted 67K with genuine toyota motor oil OR Mobil clean 5000 and toyota filters exclusively. Cams shot, piston skirts collapsed. Previous Suzuki Aerio, 45K and all done, burning 1qt /900mi; previous mitsubishi 3.0L V6, 55K and all done, piston slap, low power, burning oil. Alll using best factory filters and premium mineral oil.
Thats why I changed my tune. And my Oil. My yaris was going down the tubes and the Motul and wix filter saved it.

that rav 4 was a lemon, for sure. the other two, well, neither is famous for lasting very long. ive heard too many stories of suzukis and mitsus being done at 50k. i dont think synthetic oil would have saved any of them. its just anecdotal evidence, anyway. i could give anecdotal evidence about my 89 civic, 90 camry, and 98 corolla all going 250,000+ miles with conventional oil changes every 5k.

[1stToyota]

Ist - I understand what you mean here, my fill cap says SL so not too bad for me. I have less oil probs with the super good grp iv-v base oil blends(Motul, Total, Sikolene) I have never tried amsoil. I am a "little" worried about unsing the Motul spec. BMW LL-01 maybe having NO API rating but assuming I will have NO oiling problems, I can worry less. Hey there is no API in Europe right?

How does that pennzoil platinum feel in the motor - any thing good/bad to say just driving wise?
I was trying to stir things up because I still cant beleive you can market grp-iii mineral as synthetic. take care.

You're right, it does say SL :bonk:
Well, thanks. If I'd have known that I would have had just that many more choices to worry about being the best for my car.

And the P.P. isn't in there yet. Still running the Amsoil HP and Amsoil Ea filter. Over 3K miles on this change and oil still looks nearly new, but I've heard a few bad reports on the Amsoil filters not having enough media and getting poor marks because of it. I'll be glad to actually start trying the Beck/Arnley filters and Pennzoil Platinum. All filters are due a change at next OCI.

[1stToyota]

Ist - I have less oil probs with the super good grp iv-v base oil blends(Motul, Total, Sikolene) I have never tried amsoil.

I was trying to stir things up because I still cant beleive you can market grp-iii mineral as synthetic. take care.

Might be wrong but isn't Amsoil's XL series base 3? It's probably their no. 1 seller.

Ever heard any gore stories on Lucas 5w-20? ACEA rated A3/B4, don't know if it's base 3, 4 or 5. A buddy of mine just switched to it after using Amsoil SS 0w-30 (A5/B5). He's supposed to run 5w-20 in his Ford and didn't want Amsoil's 5w-20 (A1/B1)...A1/B1 seems to be the standard for a lot of 5w-20s.