0W20

[daf62757]

I know this issue has been talked about extensively, but I am wondering if anyone has used 0w20 for a while and what has been there experience with it? I see contradicting info on using 0w20 and I am curious if someone has actually been using it, what is their experience with it, and have they experienced any engine damage as a result.

[1stToyota]

I know this issue has been talked about extensively, but I am wondering if anyone has used 0w20 for a while and what has been there experience with it? I see contradicting info on using 0w20 and I am curious if someone has actually been using it, what is their experience with it, and have they experienced any engine damage as a result.

I don't use it because owner's manual and cap states 5w30, and Toyota TSB adds 5w20 as a suitable viscosity for the 1NZ-FE Yaris 1.5 ...no where does Toyota list 0w20 for the Yaris, but sites for Mobil 1, Amsoil, etc do list 0w20, so believe who you want. I wouldn't chance it unless you're in a cold climate. Some that have used it mention increased noise.

I know that too thick of a viscosity can have a detrimental effect on cars with VVT, don't know if the same holds true with an oil that's too thin.

[supmet]

I don't use it because owner's manual and cap states 5w30, and Toyota TSB adds 5w20 as a suitable viscosity for the 1NZ-FE Yaris 1.5 ...no where does Toyota list 0w20 for the Yaris, but sites for Mobil 1, Amsoil, etc do list 0w20, so believe who you want. I wouldn't chance it unless you're in a cold climate. Some that have used it mention increased noise.

I know that too thick of a viscosity can have a detrimental effect on cars with VVT, don't know if the same holds true with an oil that's too thin.

Agree with pretty much everything, but I still wouldn't chance it even in cold climates. Best case scenario, you'll break even in gas savings vs wear and tear. Worst case you snap a rod. Its still a chance, but the difference is your car is still under warranty with 5w20.

[Split]

AMSoil SAE 0W-20 100% Synthetic Motor Oil all year round here!

[360cubes]

0W20 or even 0W30 won't cause engine damage. The only engines that don't like different viscosity are the HEMI MDS and GM's DOD engines. They're particular about running nothing but 5W20. You could run 15W40 even in a VVT-i engine for all the dealer knows. They won't spend the money to test oil viscosity if a warranty repair comes up. 0W20 will allow for smoother starting in cold climates as the oil will move faster to all vital components. As long as the oil you want to use is labeled on the bottle that it is compatible with a particular manufacturer then there's nothing to worry about. I run Amsoil in all my vehicles with different viscosity. Amsoil even backs up their product with their own warranty should anything happen to the engine and it was proven that the oil was at fault - Amsoil will cover the expense. I've been an Amsoil dealer for four years and have sold thousands of quarts to people with everything from a '08 Audi A8 to a '89 VW Rabbit diesel.

[daf62757]

I see all you Canuks use the 0w20, but here in mid America, is it OK?

[dallas]

Yes it's ok. Until 0w20 reaches operating temperatures it's lighter and it may free up a microscopic amount more miles per gallon, but if ultimate engine life is your key, or if you drive agressive, stick with the 5w30, or 0w30. In European HTHS ( high temperature high shear)testing 2O weight oils don't meet the standard. The test is run at 150C which simulates the temerature in the main bearings of most engines.

[dallas]

Your from Edmonton I see, you deal with the guys at Matrix Motorsports in Mayfield Toyota?

AMSoil SAE 0W-20 100% Synthetic Motor Oil all year round here!

[Kaotic Lazagna]

I'm using Amsoil 0W-20. I love this stuff, along with their EA filter.

[daf62757]

I don't know if the price difference between Amsoil and Mobile 1 is worth the difference. Can anyone explain why the Amsoil is worth so much more?

[1stToyota]

0W20 or even 0W30 won't cause engine damage. The only engines that don't like different viscosity are the HEMI MDS and GM's DOD engines. They're particular about running nothing but 5W20. You could run 15W40 even in a VVT-i engine for all the dealer knows. They won't spend the money to test oil viscosity if a warranty repair comes up. 0W20 will allow for smoother starting in cold climates as the oil will move faster to all vital components. As long as the oil you want to use is labeled on the bottle that it is compatible with a particular manufacturer then there's nothing to worry about. I run Amsoil in all my vehicles with different viscosity. Amsoil even backs up their product with their own warranty should anything happen to the engine and it was proven that the oil was at fault - Amsoil will cover the expense. I've been an Amsoil dealer for four years and have sold thousands of quarts to people with everything from a '08 Audi A8 to a '89 VW Rabbit diesel.

The dealer will probably know if it fouls up an actuator for running too thick of a viscosity, or if they decide to run about a $20.00 UOA. Diagnostic charges won't be covered under warranty. Is the GM 3.9L DOD? It sure hated not having the correct viscosity of 5w-30.

[1stToyota]

I don't know if the price difference between Amsoil and Mobile 1 is worth the difference. Can anyone explain why the Amsoil is worth so much more?

I wouldn't pay any extra for Amsoil's XL series. It's the only one with the API approval stamp, and it's also only A1/B1 ACEA rated, with base stock of 3. You can find equal or better rated oils at discounted prices. That was for Amsoil's XL series...their better oils are higher rated, better additives and higher base, but not API approved; worth the extra money if you don't mind the catch 22.

[Astroman]

I've used the 0w-20 from amsoil and it worked great. The only reason I'm using 5w-30 amsoil right now is the last time I bought amsoil, I got the 5w stuff for my girlfriends old car and we got rid of it before I changed the oil. Figured it shouldn't go to waste.

[firemachine69]

I don't know if the price difference between Amsoil and Mobile 1 is worth the difference. Can anyone explain why the Amsoil is worth so much more?

Almost all of the AMSoil line-up is "true" synthetic (commonly referred to as 'group 4'), Mobil 1 is an extremely hydrocracked dyno oil (referred to as group 3 or 3), meaning not "truly" synthetic in that sense, but acceptable by the governments definitions.

[marcus]

toyota canada does not recognize 5w-20...i think this is only usa.

[1stToyota]

Almost all of the AMSoil line-up is "true" synthetic (commonly referred to as 'group 4'), Mobil 1 is an extremely hydrocracked dyno oil (referred to as group 3 or 3), meaning not "truly" synthetic in that sense, but acceptable by the governments definitions.

I think they (Amsoil) might even have some 'group 5' products, but not so sure about their XL series being anything but 'group 3' ...or at least that's what I was told about their popular XL series.

edit:

http://www.amsoil.com/articlespr/article_xl7500.aspx

All Amsoil XL series is group III to get API approval:

"AMSOIL Changes XL-7500 Formula To Enhance Oils, Stay Competitive

Q: AMSOIL will be using a different formula for its XL-7500 Motor Oils. Why did AMSOIL change the formula?

A: Our XL-7500 oils are the oils of choice in the retail oil change market, and primarily because of warranty concerns the customers in this market require API-certified oils. In order to obtain API SL/ILSAC GF-3 certification and still remain cost-competitive with the other oils sold at retail oil change outlets, we had to change to Group III basestocks. To obtain API certification with our top tier basestocks would have priced our Dealers out of the market.

Q: Are Group III basestocks synthetic?

A: Yes, they are synthetic. Group III base oils are highly processed oils and were classified as synthetic in 1999.That year, the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureaus ruled in a complaint by Mobil Oil Corp. against Castrol North America Inc. Castrol claimed its product, Syntec, was a synthetic oil even though it had used Group III base oils since 1997. The ruling by NAD said Castrol presented evidence that constitutes a reasonable basis for the claim that Syntec, a Group III based formulation, is synthetic motor oil."

[SpaceShot]

I use the Mobil 1 0W20 in the winter and 0W30 the rest of the year.
No ill effects after 22K miles in 2008 LB with manual trans.

In a '76 Civic I did put a rod through the aluminum block, but that was due to a defective head gasket from the factory. If you are changing your oil and filter at every 5K (or earlier) you should be fine with the Mobil 1.

Skipping an oil change, or failing to notice steady engine leaks will be much more dangerous to your engine than altering which brand or viscosity you do happen to put in.

[daf62757]

A woman that knows her oil! What a catch!:thumbup::thumbsup:


I think they (Amsoil) might even have some 'group 5' products, but not so sure about their XL series being anything but 'group 3' ...or at least that's what I was told about their popular XL series.

edit:

http://www.amsoil.com/articlespr/article_xl7500.aspx

All Amsoil XL series is group III to get API approval:

"AMSOIL Changes XL-7500 Formula To Enhance Oils, Stay Competitive

Q: AMSOIL will be using a different formula for its XL-7500 Motor Oils. Why did AMSOIL change the formula?

A: Our XL-7500 oils are the oils of choice in the retail oil change market, and primarily because of warranty concerns the customers in this market require API-certified oils. In order to obtain API SL/ILSAC GF-3 certification and still remain cost-competitive with the other oils sold at retail oil change outlets, we had to change to Group III basestocks. To obtain API certification with our top tier basestocks would have priced our Dealers out of the market.

Q: Are Group III basestocks synthetic?

A: Yes, they are synthetic. Group III base oils are highly processed oils and were classified as synthetic in 1999.That year, the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureaus ruled in a complaint by Mobil Oil Corp. against Castrol North America Inc. Castrol claimed its product, Syntec, was a synthetic oil even though it had used Group III base oils since 1997. The ruling by NAD said Castrol presented evidence that constitutes a reasonable basis for the claim that Syntec, a Group III based formulation, is synthetic motor oil."

[marcus]

psssssst daf... shes not a woman...

[yarstar]

I'm using Amsoil 0W-20. I love this stuff, along with their EA filter.

+1

[firemachine69]

Use it with confidence. Your body panels will be falling apart long before your engine shows significant wear.

[1stToyota]

A woman that knows her oil! What a catch!:thumbup::thumbsup:

Yeah, not a woman, just a fan of Megan. :redface:
I have a friend that's an Amsoil dealer and at one time he gave me a quick rundown of their different series of oils--and I seemed to remember that the XL series was group III, ACEA A1/B1, and API approved, so I looked it up to be sure. I'll go ahead and stick with Pennzoil Platinum, over the XL.

[daf62757]

Yeah, not a woman, just a fan of Megan. :redface:
I have a friend that's an Amsoil dealer and at one time he gave me a quick rundown of their different series of oils--and I seemed to remember that the XL series was group III, ACEA A1/B1, and API approved, so I looked it up to be sure. I'll go ahead and stick with Pennzoil Platinum, over the XL.


Sorry for the mistake....

[daf62757]

Just to follow up...I recently did an oil change and switched to Pennzoil Platinum 5w20. I then went on a 2k mile road trip to Louisiana and I was impressed. The engine sounded much smoother and the mileage was OK...(75MPH, AC on, with an average 37MPH). Not enough imperical evidence, I know....but just on the Wheel Interface Mechanism (the human behind the wheel) I am satisfied! The PP was very cheap, I bought it at Advanced Auto for 29.99 for 5 qts and a Mobil 1 oil filter. I also changed my wife's Rav4 at the same and have 2 qts to spare!

[1stToyota]

Just to follow up...I recently did an oil change and switched to Pennzoil Platinum 5w20. I then went on a 2k mile road trip to Louisiana and I was impressed. The engine sounded much smoother and the mileage was OK...(75MPH, AC on, with an average 37MPH). Not enough impreical evidence, I know....but just on the Wheel Interface Mechanism (the human behind the wheel) I am satisfied! The PP was very cheap, I bought it at Advanced Auto for 29.99 for 5 qts and a Mobil 1 oil filter. I also changed my wife's Rav4 at the same and have 2 qts to spare!

I'm getting a UOA at my next PP 5w-30 OCI. I ran Eneos and Amsoil, and the engine with PP seems to be very smooth and quiet; the best so far. Paid $3.99 per qt at O'Reilly, 3 cases before their sale ended.

[GeneW]

I know this issue has been talked about extensively, but I am wondering if anyone has used 0w20 for a while and what has been there experience with it? I see contradicting info on using 0w20 and I am curious if someone has actually been using it, what is their experience with it, and have they experienced any engine damage as a result.

I use Valvoline Synpower, 5W-30. To each their own...

Gene

[DerFlosser]

0-20 is to little protection for a timing chain...especially as the guides wear and the temperature rises. 5-30 is a perfect oil for this motor.

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

NEWEST dealer letter from toyota explains their plan to use 0W20 in ALL their cars begining with some 2010 models. the letter explained in detail toyota's plan to increase maintence interval mileage and their request for dealers to expand/add 0w20 oil tanks.

[1stToyota]

NEWEST dealer letter from toyota explains their plan to use 0W20 in ALL their cars begining with some 2010 models. the letter explained in detail toyota's plan to increase maintence interval mileage and their request for dealers to expand/add 0w20 oil tanks.

Because they're pressured to show better fuel economy ratings and project that their cars need less service now, or because it'll make the engines last longer by switching viscosity and changing it less often? :wink:

[R2D2]

As usual I agree with 360cubes. However, since the Amsoil 0W-20 does not carry ILSAC GF-4 and 0W-20 is not approved by Toyota for these engines people should understand they may have a battle for warranty coverage if the dealer decides to push it.
The burden is on the dealer to prove your oil choice caused the problem, but this can make life pretty uncomfortable in the meantime. Also Amsoil is only going to cover a problem if the oil is the oil they recommend for your vehicle and it causes the problem (it isn't and it won't). Currently Amsoil's website recommends all 30 wt products.

Having said that it makes no sense to me why 0W-20 oils are not approved by Toyota. Most quality 0W-20's should provide the same protection as there 5W counterparts with even better cold start performance.

For those of you using the Amsoil 0W-20 it is an exceptional product and among my favorite oils regardless of viscosity. I have used it in a police cruiser out to 15,500 mi PLUS OVER 300 hrs of IDLE TIME with excellent oil analysis results. For those of you who are out of warranty or willing to fight Toyota if need be and want to greatly extend oil change intervals I would highly recommend the Amsoil 0W-20.

I will be using Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 5W-20 for the first and subsequent oil changes in my Yaris, as it is ILSAC GF-4 (carries the starburst), is approved 5W-20 and is very reasonably priced for a cake walk 5 k mi/6 mo oci.

As some have mentioned Pennzoil also offers up an excellent product at a very reasonable price with there Platinum line. Mobil 1, Synpower-all these products are overkill for 5k oci's-and that's ok in my book.

[Tamago]

i vote the next person who starts a "0w" thread gets a 3 day ban