need help: foglight indicator - where are the wires?

[yarisugi]

Hi all. I'm looking for the wires that turn on the foglights symbol in the instrument panel (when lit, it's on the left of the speedometer). Where is it located and what wire is it? Thanks.

[1NZYaris1]

Hi all. I'm looking for the wires that turn on the foglights symbol in the instrument panel (when lit, it's on the left of the speedometer). Where is it located and what wire is it? Thanks.


Here you Go , these should help, i hope :thumbsup:

[CTScott]

Or, if you're installing aftermarket fogs without the stalk switch, you can fire the indicator directly by supplying 12V to the red wire on Pin 7 of the D2 connector on the combination meter.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/D2.jpg

[yarisugi]

Hi CTScott. Where is this D2 connector located? Yes, I have aftermarket fogs without stalk switch.

1NZYaris: Do I just need to add power to PIN3 and then the indicator will light up?

[1NZYaris1]

Hi CTScott. Where is this D2 connector located? Yes, I have aftermarket fogs without stalk switch.

1NZYaris: Do I just need to add power to PIN3 and then the indicator will light up?

no you do not need to add power to pin 3 it is already there.

[CTScott]

Hi CTScott. Where is this D2 connector located? Yes, I have aftermarket fogs without stalk switch.

1NZYaris: Do I just need to add power to PIN3 and then the indicator will light up?

If you pop the combination meter assembly off, it has two connectors D1 and D2. D1 is a 24 pin connector and D2 (the one you want) is a 16 pin connector.

By the way, I believe that Pin 3 on the stalk connector only works if you are using a fog light switch equipped stalk.

[yarisugi]

Hmmm. After reading the DIY ESUSE foglight install (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9473) it looks like it's possible to use that stalk connector even if you don't have a stalk for fogs...? But what is pin 3 and pin 4 and how would you hook it up to the existing wires that came with the kit?

[1NZYaris1]

If you pop the combination meter assembly off, it has two connectors D1 and D2. D1 is a 24 pin connector and D2 (the one you want) is a 16 pin connector.

By the way, I believe that Pin 3 on the stalk connector only works if you are using a fog light switch equipped stalk.

Not true at all , this is the way mine are wired, and they work great :biggrin:

[CTScott]

Not true at all , this is the way mine are wired, and they work great :biggrin:

You installed the relay in the D46 position for that to work. The question is if his kit has the relay that installs there or if it has the external relay.

So, you are definitely correct that the stalk is not required, but the relay in that position, or the external relay wired through that position would be required.

The kit that I bought included an external relay, so I wired the indicator directly to the combination meter.

Here is the EWD for the fogs, which shows pin 3 and 4 on the upper left. The Fog light relay (at D46) is at the upper right. Its output feeds the fog lights and the combination meter indicator (center).


http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/FrontFogLight-1.jpg

[1NZYaris1]

the diagrames above is for useing the switch supplied with the kit .
if you want to use the factory combo switch all you need is the relay
(factory , or aftermarket) to plug into factory position as per diagrames.

[mrbond]

the diagrames above is for useing the switch supplied with the kit .
if you want to use the factory combo switch all you need is the relay
(factory , or aftermarket) to plug into factory position as per diagrames.

So, let's see if I understand this. If I wanted to use the factory stalk instead of the little button that goes into the console, then all I need to do is wire up the fog lights, put the wire into the fuse box in the engine bay, and then put the relay where it's supposed to go? So I wouldn't even need that extra wiring harness for the cabin? If so, that's fantastic.

[mrbond]

Oh thank God. I was reading all the DIYs for the cabin wiring and I was thinking to myself, there's gotta be a way simpler method to doing this. And there is, apparently :D

[cyberfrogg]

By the way, I believe that Pin 3 on the stalk connector only works if you are using a fog light switch equipped stalk.

How do you know I know if I have a fog light switch equipped stalk?

[CTScott]

How do you know I know if I have a fog light switch equipped stalk?

It will have a thin rotating band with the fog light symbol, besides the wide rotating end for the head and parking lights.

[cyberfrogg]

Ah then I guess I dont have it. =/

Im having trouble with my switch. The light indicator on the switch turns is on ALL the time except when I turn on my fogs. As soon as I turn them on, the little rectangle light on the switch turns off.. Its very annoying. I plugged in the wires into pin 3 and pin 4 of the D4 connector..

[CTScott]

Ah then I guess I dont have it. =/

Im having trouble with my switch. The light indicator on the switch turns is on ALL the time except when I turn on my fogs. As soon as I turn them on, the little rectangle light on the switch turns off.. Its very annoying. I plugged in the wires into pin 3 and pin 4 of the D4 connector..

Based on the wiring diagram, use of pins 3 and 4 requires the fog light switch equipped stalk. On a stalk without the fog switch, pins 3 to 4 should theoretically not be switched.

[cyberfrogg]

what do you mean they should theoretically not be switched? I'm sorry, I'm a noob at all this..

Could I just connect one of the wires to Pin 7 of the D2 connector on the combination meter like you said?

[CTScott]

what do you mean they should theoretically not be switched? I'm sorry, I'm a noob at all this..

Could I just connect one of the wires to Pin 7 of the D2 connector on the combination meter like you said?

Pins 3 and 4 are the input / output of the fog switch, so without the switch I am not sure whether they are left to float or what (I'd go out and put a meter on there to find out for sure, but I am in the middle of packing for vacation).

Actually, looking back up at what 1NZ posted, when you are using the console switch, it gets connected across pins 3 and 4, so it acts the same as the stalk switch. The key is that the OEM pin 3 wire is pulled from the stalk connector and the console fog light switch inserts between the OEM pin 3 wire and the connector. Pin 4 does not get touched or connected to on the connector.

If you just "tapped" your switch onto pins 3 and 4 then that would explain the issue you are having.

[cyberfrogg]

If you just "tapped" your switch onto pins 3 and 4 then that would explain the issue you are having.

what does that mean? If I just "tapped" them?

[CTScott]

what does that mean? If I just "tapped" them?

I mean if you spliced your wires onto the existing wires, as opposed to pulling the pin out of pin 3 and inserting the new wire into pin 3.

[cyberfrogg]

oooohhhhh! No, I didnt do that. I just inserted the wires with the existing ones. Blue into pin 3 and green to pin 4. Was I supposed to remove the existing wire in pin 3? what would that do?

[CTScott]

oooohhhhh! No, I didnt do that. I just inserted the wires with the existing ones. Blue into pin 3 and green to pin 4. Was I supposed to remove the existing wire in pin 3? what would that do?

The pin 4 connection is the big issue I believe. Only the OEM wire should be connected there.

Try this:

1. Disconnect both of your wires from Pins 3 and 4.

2. Pop the pin out of pin 3 (or, if your harness just has bare ends, snip the wire going to pin 3, leaving an inch or so to connect to.

3. Connect one of your wires to one side of the snipped wire (harness side) and the other to the other side (connector side).

[cyberfrogg]

okay I'll do that when I get home. =] thanks!

I hope this works!

[1NZYaris1]

The relay from what i have been told should also have a
inline resister as per photo of this relay

[Meteorite_Marty]

exactly the Yaris is already prewired, the only harness you need is the one to connect the Fogs together and to the fuse box in the engine bay.


Purchase the foglight stalk. The install is SOOOOOO much simpler and no messing with firewall and interior wiring. Plus, the fog light stalk is how it would come if you ordered your car with fogs from Toyota factory directly.

[Meteorite_Marty]

So, let's see if I understand this. If I wanted to use the factory stalk instead of the little button that goes into the console, then all I need to do is wire up the fog lights, put the wire into the fuse box in the engine bay, and then put the relay where it's supposed to go? So I wouldn't even need that extra wiring harness for the cabin? If so, that's fantastic.

Purchase the foglight stalk, I don't think the default headlight stalk can handle fog light control. The install is SOOOOOO much simpler and no messing with firewall and interior wiring. Plus, the fog light stalk is how it would come if you ordered your car with fogs from Toyota factory directly.

[mrbond]

Purchase the foglight stalk, I don't think the default headlight stalk can handle fog light control. The install is SOOOOOO much simpler and no messing with firewall and interior wiring. Plus, the fog light stalk is how it would come if you ordered your car with fogs from Toyota factory directly.

For sure, I'm definitely doing this. I don't like messing with electrical stuff - too complicated.

[Meteorite_Marty]

For sure, I'm definitely doing this. I don't like messing with electrical stuff - too complicated.

This post gives links to order the RELAY and FOG LIGHT STALK


http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10258&highlight=fog+light+stalk

[yarisugi]

Thanks all. I installed the foglights and figured that I don't HAVE to have the foglight indicator on in the instrument panel since it indicates "on" on the button itself.

[Meteorite_Marty]

Thanks all. I installed the foglights and figured that I don't HAVE to have the foglight indicator on in the instrument panel since it indicates "on" on the button itself.

If you had used the fog light stalk, then the bonus to that is the dash indicator comes on when you turn on the fogs. Totally like factory.

This is the way I did mine.

[cyberfrogg]

The pin 4 connection is the big issue I believe. Only the OEM wire should be connected there.

Try this:

1. Disconnect both of your wires from Pins 3 and 4.

2. Pop the pin out of pin 3 (or, if your harness just has bare ends, snip the wire going to pin 3, leaving an inch or so to connect to.

3. Connect one of your wires to one side of the snipped wire (harness side) and the other to the other side (connector side).

I tried doing this and it didn't work... My fog lights would not turn on. I snipped the original yellow wire in pin 3 and connected my green wire to it (so now the green wire is connected to pin 3 directly) and then I got my blue wire and connected it to the other piece of the yellow wire that was hanging.

this is what it looked like before:
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m141/one_way_up/100_1098.jpg

And it looks something like this now:
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m141/one_way_up/Fogs.jpg
(the black rectangle on the bottom just represents like the switch of the fogs...)

Did i do something wrong? Now that its wired like this my switch works just as its supposed to but my fog lights wont turn on at all anymore... =/

please help!

[CTScott]

Did i do something wrong? Now that its wired like this my switch works just as its supposed to but my fog lights wont turn on at all anymore... =/

please help!

What do you mean by switch works just as it's supposed to? Do you mean that when you press the fog switch, the dash indicator comes on, but the lights don't?

[cyberfrogg]

What do you mean by switch works just as it's supposed to? Do you mean that when you press the fog switch, the dash indicator comes on, but the lights don't?

The fog light symbol on the switch turns along with all my other interior lights, which is good. And when I press the switch, the little led indicator turns on as its supposed to. The only thing is the fog lights themselves dont turn on and therefore the symbol on the dash doesnt turn on. So the lights on the switch do what theyre supposed to do. Before I wired it this way, the little led would be on all the time (except for when I had my fogs in use). So in a sense, it was backwards. And now it works, but my fogs dont turn on...

[CTScott]

How many wires connect to your switch?

[cyberfrogg]

Four. This is an old pic I had. Its the only one that kinda shows em.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m141/one_way_up/100_1062.jpg

I have two Greens, one blue, and a ground... the black one.

One green I have wired underneath the gear shift so that the fog light symbol gets light from it and turns on when I turn on my lights inside.

The other green and the blue are what are messing me up.

[CTScott]

Four. This is an old pic I had. Its the only one that kinda shows em.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m141/one_way_up/100_1062.jpg

I have two Greens, one blue, and a ground... the black one.

One green I have wired underneath the gear shift so that the fog light symbol gets light from it and turns on when I turn on my lights inside.

The other green and the blue are what are messing me up.

Looking at various DIY's on aftermarket fog installs, it looks like there a couple of different harnesses (with different wire colors, etc.), some of which require modification in order to connect them to the oem fog wiring.

This one seems to best match your description, and it requires modification to connect to the oem wiring:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9473

[cyberfrogg]

lol thats the DIY i used to wire em up and thats how I got the problem in the first place. I have the exact same fog kit, except for the sedan. And I wired it how the DIY said but then the switch seems to work in reverse... ahhh..

[CTScott]

The more I look at this issue, I think that the switch is the issue. The OEM stalk switch is just a switch, connecting pins 3 and 4 on D4. The OEM console switch has the switch isolated from the leds. In the picture of the guts of your switch on that DIY, the switch LED is part of the switch circuit. I think that is what is causing the headaches.

I would modify the switch as follows:

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/fogswitchlablednk4mod.jpg

1. Cut the marked trace.
2. Remove the diode.
3. Solder the two jumper wires as indicated.
4. If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them. The switch is a dual pole switch, which allows it to separately switch the two circuits.

[cyberfrogg]

The more I look at this issue, I think that the switch is the issue. The OEM stalk switch is just a switch, connecting pins 3 and 4 on D4. The OEM console switch has the switch isolated from the leds. In the picture of the guts of your switch on that DIY, the switch LED is part of the switch circuit. I think that is what is causing the headaches.

I would modify the switch as follows:

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/fogswitchlablednk4mod.jpg

1. Cut the marked trace.
2. Remove the diode.
3. Solder the two jumper wires as indicated.
4. If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them. The switch is a dual pole switch, which allows it to separately switch the two circuits.

I'm sorry I am so confused.. I don't know anything about wiring/electricity and stuff... Can you clear things up..?

thanks..

[CTScott]

I'm sorry I am so confused.. I don't know anything about wiring/electricity and stuff... Can you clear things up..?

thanks..

In a nutshell, the switch that came with the kit was designed to be used with the kit, not to be used with the OEM wiring. In order for it to work correctly with the OEM wiring, it needs to be modified. The two easiest fixes without modifying the switch would be to get either an OEM fog light stalk, or the OEM fog light switch.

[cyberfrogg]

oooooohhh!!! Sorry! I was at school and didnt see there was a picture there... Im understanding it more. my only questions are:

How do I open the switch to see what the picture shows?

where/what is the diode?

what are the two jumper cables and where do I solder them?

and what do u mean by "If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them."?

sorry again and thanks...

[yarisugi]

Wow CTScott. I don't know what the heck is that, but it sure looks like you know your stuff! :) U DA MAN!

Cyberfrogg, if you really want everything to work like factory then it looks like you got a lot of work to do. I think most people just install the kit as-is and don't even bother with getting it to work like factory. But good luck anyway!

[CTScott]

oooooohhh!!! Sorry! I was at school and didnt see there was a picture there... Im understanding it more. my only questions are:

How do I open the switch to see what the picture shows?

where/what is the diode?

what are the two jumper cables and where do I solder them?

and what do u mean by "If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them."?

sorry again and thanks...


To open it, there should be two tabs about 3/4" above the connector that can be pressed in to pull the connector and circuit board away from the housing.

The diode is the orange and black device.

The "jumpers" are two pieces of insulated wire that you will need to strip the ends of a solder them between the indicated endpoints.

By bridged I mean connected. They may have a silver solder blob (silver) connecting them or there may be a trace (shiny green) connecting them.

[toy_toronto]

I can't thank CTScott enough for all of his contribution here. Everytime I needed wiring help, I just search and almost guaranteed that I will find the answer from one of his postings.

Anyway, I PM'd him today about getting my fog lights instrumental panel indicator lights to come on. I hope someone can benefit from this information in the future:

Hi CTScott, sorry to bother you but you seem to be the resident guru here in terms of electical wirings.

I got my fogs hooked up the "old school" way, no factory stalk switch, no factory harnes, etc. except I used the supplied switch and relay with the kit and tapped on the car's existing 12V constant feed and 12v ACC (just in case i leave the fog lights switch to ON unintentionally they turn off when I take the keys off the ignition). The OEM-style switch and kit relay are all mounted electrically sound, and the way my fogs are wired is completely independent of the low/hi beam/park light status. I turn it on or off on demand.

The only thing I would like to have now is to have the intrumental panel fog lights indicator to turn on/off depending on the status of my fogs.

Your post below seems to be simple enough to follow.. is this the definitive way to fire that dash fog indicator light on or off? There seems to be some confusement as I read the rest of the thread.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15941

Thanks :smile:

Or, if you're installing aftermarket fogs without the stalk switch, you can fire the indicator directly by supplying 12V to the red wire on Pin 7 of the D2 connector on the combination meter.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/D2.jpg


Ah Yes - That tends to happen in those kinds of threads. But, yes supplying +12 to the red wire when your fogs are on will make the indicator light up.


As for the end result?

Tada!!!! Thanks CTScott :thumbup:


http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac316/mywebshare44/2010%20Toyota%20Yaris/62257aa1.jpg


-toy



.

[auxmike]

Mine lights up too. Looks factory...because it IS!:thumbup:

[mario98c]

Thanks to CTScott! :w00t:
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/900/img1321tx.jpg

[jcboy]

I know this is an old thread, but after going thru all the threads about the indicator on the cluster, i feel this route is the easiest since i dont know how my factory wired aftermarket fogs were connected. But one thing is for sure, it doesnt turn the indicator on the cluster on.

question then is, what is the easiest way to get the 12v to run into this d2-pin7 wire once the fogs are turned on? (What came to.mind was tapping the switch but which one? worse,tapping into the live wire going into the fog.)

I have esuse with 2 green wires and black and blue IIRC, basically a total of four--similar to the one above.

Tia.

[yarisugi]

Since you have the ESUSE foglight kits, please read THIS THREAD (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9473). It should answer most or all your questions.

[jcboy]

thanks yarisugi. yes it does, and honestly i'm thankful for that thread. However, i still have two items that are stopping me from following that (thus the d2 connector option im leaning towards):

1) i am unsure as to whether my cluster has a fog light indicator, that's why i need the D2 connector way (if possible) to check if it does
2) i cant seem to find the wiring (or at the least figure it out) of this esuse wiring that the factory installed. moreover, they might have gone a unique route of wiring this up. if i can get the lower kick panel to come off, i probably will be able to see better--rather than the sunglass holder only coming of--again, thus the D2 connector route..

[CTScott]

thanks yarisugi. yes it does, and honestly i'm thankful for that thread. However, i still have two items that are stopping me from following that (thus the d2 connector option im leaning towards):

1) i am unsure as to whether my cluster has a fog light indicator, that's why i need the D2 connector way (if possible) to check if it does
2) i cant seem to find the wiring (or at the least figure it out) of this esuse wiring that the factory installed. moreover, they might have gone a unique route of wiring this up. if i can get the lower kick panel to come off, i probably will be able to see better--rather than the sunglass holder only coming of--again, thus the D2 connector route..

Start by shining a flashlight on the cluster. You will see all of the unlit indicators, including the foglight one (if it is there).

[jcboy]

Thanks scott. Well, I did what you said, unfortunately it is sooooo hard to see the cluster lights since the gauge face is practically opaque even if light is shone on it. I would like to take a look at tom under a strong sun though--although i think (i hope im right) that i saw a fog and a rear fog symbol on the right side, roughly above the lcd display of the gauge.

If I do, then what's the next move for me as far as the simpler D2 12V wiring goes? I don't want to modify the foglight wiring as bold as the one in the thread Yarisugi posted a link for, as i'm afraid that if and when I would claim electrical warranty, it can easily be seen by the service guy.

[CTScott]

Thanks scott. Well, I did what you said, unfortunately it is sooooo hard to see the cluster lights since the gauge face is practically opaque even if light is shone on it. I would like to take a look at tom under a strong sun though--although i think (i hope im right) that i saw a fog and a rear fog symbol on the right side, roughly above the lcd display of the gauge.

If I do, then what's the next move for me as far as the simpler D2 12V wiring goes? I don't want to modify the foglight wiring as bold as the one in the thread Yarisugi posted a link for, as i'm afraid that if and when I would claim electrical warranty, it can easily be seen by the service guy.



I wound need to see the wires on the two connectors at the base of your instrument cluster to determine if the wiring matches the wiring diagrams that I have.

[jcboy]

Ok i do i have a fog light indicator and even the rearfog! If my assumptions are correct, then it should be the same wiring but ill take a screenshot of it and post it here tom as its already night here and the flash or fluorescent lights will mess up the hues let alone the colors of the wires.

Thanks!

[kosy_m]

Done, Thanks CTScott

[kosy_m]

Intrestingly in the asian right hand drive vitz , you have to connect 12 v to the top row 2 nd pin of D2 to fire the indicator.:smile:

[jcboy]

Hey scott. Here you go. Havent tried anything as im scared to fry something. Or would i? Other than a fuse i mean, if i connected one of the pins to 12v.


http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l15/boodis/Gusot/IMAG0674.jpg


http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l15/boodis/Gusot/IMAG0673.jpg

[CTScott]

Intrestingly in the asian right hand drive vitz , you have to connect 12 v to the top row 2 nd pin of D2 to fire the indicator.:smile:

That is actually the same pin. In the connector diagram that I posted on page 3 of this thread, the pin numbers are looking into the pin holes of the connector, not into the wire entry side.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/D2.jpg

[CTScott]

Hey scott. Here you go. Havent tried anything as im scared to fry something. Or would i? Other than a fuse i mean, if i connected one of the pins to 12v.


http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l15/boodis/IMAG0674.jpg


http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l15/boodis/IMAG0673.jpg


The worst case is a blown fuse, but I think it will work fine. The Yellow wire on your connector is the one to connect to. I just tested it on a Japanese cluster that I have and that pin lit the front fog light LED.

[yarisugi]

You sure got a lot of clusters CTScott. :smile:

[CTScott]

You sure got a lot of clusters CTScott. :smile:

Looking around my office I see Seven (plus there is one in each of my 3 Yaris). I think I have a problem and my someday appear on one of those reality shows about hoarders.

[jcboy]

:biggrin:Looking around my office I see Seven (plus there is one in each of my 3 Yaris). I think I have a problem and my someday appear on one of those reality shows about hoarders.

haha I would think so too, so be ready with your own show.lol

ok thanks, i am hopeful it is the correct one, because i just tested it from each of the two green wires from the switch as well as the blue (esuse), and nothing happened.

i am hopeful because I am unsure that the clusters here are made in Japan. We have our own Sta. Rosa, Laguna plant, and at best I would assume we import those from Thailand (due to costs).

if the green/blue wires are not a good source of 12V, do you think I should get a live 12V line from the battery terminal directly? and if that works, then you know how my next question goes, where do i get that 12V from?

TIA Scott, youve been always very helpful, and I can still recall the days when I kept bugging you for the correct wiring of the passenger door lock switch. :thumbup:

[CTScott]

:biggrin:

haha I would think so too, so be ready with your own show.lol

ok thanks, i am hopeful it is the correct one, because i just tested it from each of the two green wires from the switch as well as the blue (esuse), and nothing happened.

i am hopeful because I am unsure that the clusters here are made in Japan. We have our own Sta. Rosa, Laguna plant, and at best I would assume we import those from Thailand (due to costs).

if the green/blue wires are not a good source of 12V, do you think I should get a live 12V line from the battery terminal directly? and if that works, then you know how my next question goes, where do i get that 12V from?

TIA Scott, youve been always very helpful, and I can still recall the days when I kept bugging you for the correct wiring of the passenger door lock switch. :thumbup:

You will either need to measure the switch wires with a volt meter to see which one goes from 0 to 12 volts when the switch is pressed (if any actually does) or you can connect to the wire on the other side of the relay, which actually brings the 12 volts to the fog light bulbs.

[jcboy]

You will either need to measure the switch wires with a volt meter to see which one goes from 0 to 12 volts when the switch is pressed (if any actually does) or you can connect to the wire on the other side of the relay, which actually brings the 12 volts to the fog light bulbs.

ok i did what you said, and connected the yellow wire, D2-7, and i also measured the blue wire on the fog switch, it actually gives 12V to when foglights get switched on. it didnt work. both the green wires gave 12V when the park light switch was turned on, it also didnt work in firing up the foglight indicator on the gauge. :cry: is it possible to have indicators in the cluster but no LED for that? :frown:

BTW, the factory-wired esuse foglamp was included in the harness.:mad: the wires the arrow point to come from the switch and are attached to the harness (thick one, in the middle) and somehow finds it way toward the relay (blue Denso relay on the right side, encircled) and also to the outside fusebox (probably)/engine bay, so there's really no route for me toward the esuse fog light install instructions.:frown:

FYI, the items on the relays, etc, either say Denso Made in Japan or Denso Made in Thailand. So it gets even worse knowing my VIN tag says Made in Philippines. Now we dont know if the wiring follows the other Toyota plants and which one if it does.. :iono: Help...:confused:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l15/boodis/Gusot/IMAG0675_zps9b70a596.jpg

[CTScott]

ok i did what you said, and connected the yellow wire, D2-7, and i also measured the blue wire on the fog switch, it actually gives 12V to when foglights get switched on. it didnt work. both the green wires gave 12V when the park light switch was turned on, it also didnt work in firing up the foglight indicator on the gauge. :cry: is it possible to have indicators in the cluster but no LED for that? :frown:

BTW, the factory-wired esuse foglamp was included in the harness.:mad: the wires the arrow point to come from the switch and are attached to the harness (thick one, in the middle) and somehow finds it way toward the relay (blue Denso relay on the right side, encircled) and also to the outside fusebox (probably)/engine bay, so there's really no route for me toward the esuse fog light install instructions.:frown:

FYI, the items on the relays, etc, either say Denso Made in Japan or Denso Made in Thailand. So it gets even worse knowing my VIN tag says Made in Philippines. Now we dont know if the wiring follows the other Toyota plants and which one if it does.. :iono: Help...:confused:



That is interesting that the Esuse fogs are actually wired through the OEM fog wiring, rather than with the Esuse aftermarket harness. The presence of the blue relay on the right tells me that the foglight indicator is already hooked up, so it does appear that it is not active on your cluster.

[jcboy]

is that slot on the right actually an OEM slot, or is it more of an empty slot that will serve as a holder for a relay (if ever a dealer needed to put one for some reason)? i asked bec i believe the wires don't actually go to any port on any junction box, rather just wires that are attached to the harness that go out into the outside fuse box. I'll take a picture of the fuse box and post it here, maybe you can get ideas. (crossed fingers...)

can i test it with, say, the D4-3 and D4-4 pins by any chance?

[CTScott]

is that slot on the right actually an OEM slot, or is it more of an empty slot that will serve as a holder for a relay (if ever a dealer needed to put one for some reason)? i asked bec i believe the wires don't actually go to any port on any junction box, rather just wires that are attached to the harness that go out into the outside fuse box. I'll take a picture of the fuse box and post it here, maybe you can get ideas. (crossed fingers...)

can i test it with, say, the D4-3 and D4-4 pins by any chance?

That is the OEM fog light relay socket, even thought it seems like an after thought. The wires from it go into the harness, rather than into the body ECU.

At this point, I would suggest taking your cluster out (those two connectors and two screws), removing the two screws on the back that hold the tapered black part to the white part, and then you can lift up the plastic card and take a peek underneath to see if there is an LED under the fog indicator.

[jcboy]

Ok thanks thats what i did earlier, but i unscrewed the 9 or 11 screws instead, trying to find out the same thing--that didnt take me anywhere haha. Ok i will try what you said later, but that wouldnt make the needle have to come off now, would it?i was scared about that, thats why i opted the former to try to make the back come off.

[CTScott]

Ok thanks thats what i did earlier, but i unscrewed the 9 or 11 screws instead, trying to find out the same thing--that didnt take me anywhere haha. Ok i will try what you said later, but that wouldnt make the needle have to come off now, would it?i was scared about that, thats why i opted the former to try to make the back come off.

Here's what I mean. You don't need to pull the needles to look. I have the symbol lit in the picture, but you can just lift the plastic card to see if there is an LED under it or if there is an empty area of white plastic.

49671

[jcboy]

You never cease to amaze me scott. Yes it doesnt have the led on the slot. There are soldering leads on there,but the led isnt. I guess my next step is to try an ordinary led tap (long legs) since the hole is pretty deep. If it works without any wire tap then i guess it is indeed wired already, however, i dont have any options insofar as soldering an led there without removing the needles to remove the face, do i?

[jcboy]

Ok i did everything, tap D2-7 with 12v, not tap with 12v, put led normally, led in reverse (just to be sure) and no the soldering leads dont seem to give current. Do you think the gauges here are wired differently? Well the lock unlock wires seemed to be in the same slot before..

I guess it ends here for me. :iono: Thanks for all the help. :cool:

My next best bet would be to get a local optitron gauge and hopefully make it work. Or get a usdm gauge hoping it has the same wiring.

[jcboy]

Here's what I mean. You don't need to pull the needles to look. I have the symbol lit in the picture, but you can just lift the plastic card to see if there is an LED under it or if there is an empty area of white plastic.

49671

Thats a nice looking gauge btw. That LHD and optitron? :biggrin:

[CTScott]

Thats a nice looking gauge btw. That LHD and optitron? :biggrin:

That's actually a RHD one.

[NJ Drive]

Anybody know the weight of the fog lights? Unsure if the 2012s are any different than the previous gen, but a roundabout weight would suffice.

[CTScott]

Anybody know the weight of the fog lights? Unsure if the 2012s are any different than the previous gen, but a roundabout weight would suffice.

OEM ones are 10.5 oz each, aftermarket ones are a bit less.

[NJ Drive]

That's pretty light, guess they're staying in, lol. Thanks Scott.

[edmt]

:headbang: hi jcboy what model and variant is your car?
ok i did what you said, and connected the yellow wire, D2-7, and i also measured the blue wire on the fog switch, it actually gives 12V to when foglights get switched on. it didnt work. both the green wires gave 12V when the park light switch was turned on, it also didnt work in firing up the foglight indicator on the gauge. :cry: is it possible to have indicators in the cluster but no LED for that? :frown:

BTW, the factory-wired esuse foglamp was included in the harness.:mad: the wires the arrow point to come from the switch and are attached to the harness (thick one, in the middle) and somehow finds it way toward the relay (blue Denso relay on the right side, encircled) and also to the outside fusebox (probably)/engine bay, so there's really no route for me toward the esuse fog light install instructions.:frown:

FYI, the items on the relays, etc, either say Denso Made in Japan or Denso Made in Thailand. So it gets even worse knowing my VIN tag says Made in Philippines. Now we dont know if the wiring follows the other Toyota plants and which one if it does.. :iono: Help...:confused:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l15/boodis/Gusot/IMAG0675_zps9b70a596.jpg

[Billiam]

Old thread revival.

A few months ago I installed some aftermarket fog lights on my daughter's 2010 LB. I wired them up to be DRLs. They come on and off automatically with the ignition. I installed a switch to the left of the steering wheel in case there was a need to turn them off. However my daughter occasionally turns them off by accident. So I figured I would come up with a way to use the OEM indicator light so she could easily tell if they were on. This thread made it easy.

[Captamrica]

History, background and why I'm here.

I installed OEM Fog lights in my Daughter's White 2010 3 door hatchback and it was a total no brainer. The kit came with the switch that dropped right in one of the blanked out spots in the center near park brake with her Power lock switch and AUX Jack. The loom was there for the switch. The plugs were there for the fog lights. It went great.

Well that car took a hit from a Tractor trailer with my wife driving with her (daughter) in the passenger seat. Dude fell asleep at 75mph and drifted into the left lane with them almost past him. My wife floored it and almost got past him driving with 2 wheels in the grass median, blowing the horn, right next to the drivers door of the rig. Wasn't enough his front wheel caught them just behind the passenger door in front of the right rear wheel. His lug nuts opened up the car like a can opener. Blew out the passenger door window, it was tinted so it held together.

Spun them around in front of the truck sideways snow plowing them down the highway at 70mph. Guess he woke up somewhere in there and stopped the truck after about 1/4 mile.

My little girl is very timid but she loved that car, her first. She climbed out through the drivers door after my wife got out and took off running at the guy as he got out of his truck chasing him back up in his truck. She was going to kick his ass. My wife told me she couldn't believe they were still alive let alone seeing her picking a fight with a trucker.

Okay long story, sorry. I wasn't a fan of her vehicle choice when she picked out this used 2010 Yaris, never even heard of these before, but I couldn't knock it. It was sound aside from smelling like coffee. I stripped the interior and pressure washed the carpet and seat covers. I do all my own work on my vehicles. Just retired my 1993 Ford Explorer with 535,xxx miles. That's one of 3 that are over 400,000 miles. So I'm doing something right.

When she wanted another Yaris, I said no problem.
She picked out a Red 2013 Yaris LE 5 door hatchback. I'm doing all sorts of work on it for her underbody lighting, indirect LED lighting inside, etc. Plus installing Fog lights. Now this one is missing the interior loom but I have a kit to install it in the same place as it was in the 2010. I'm assuming the "Stalk" switch is the multifunction switch on the turn signal arm. I see the indicator in the instrument cluster. The plugs were outside for the fog lights themselves.

There is so much info here that I'm a little overwhelmed on which would apply to this 2013. A lot of this is Pre-2013 and I know there's a lot of changes just from the 2010 to the 2013, not for the better if you ask me, her to, she misses her 2010.

Just looking for confirmation of the pin assignments are the same and where to connect the switch to. I've got to pull power and ground from somewhere. The switch kit has all these wires for that but where am i pulling these from and where is the output to the fog light relay.

I'm going to dig back through and see what I can find but if anyone has anything to add I'd appreciate it.

Yeah, I'm a little long winded as well. Thanks

[Captamrica]

I can't read the text in the images that defines the modules in the schematics. and what is a "Combination meter" that your hooking things up to when wiring it with the external relay. My kit has it's own relay but I'd like to use as much of the factory stuff as possible. Also need locations of where this relay would be at in a 2013. Her owners manual identifies the fuse but not the relay location.

Sorry if I sound like an idiot. I'm in the US and I discovered with the 2010 this vehicle is very popular outside the US especially in RHD countries.

Thanks

[Captamrica]

Is the Combination meter the IP cluster? IP= Instrument Panel There's a lot of acronyms that are used in the thread that I am not familiar with. Sorry I was raised building Ford Aerostar and Explorer from 1988-2006. My daughter buying a Toyota was the first time anything other than a Ford, Mercury, or Lincoln had been in my garage.

Well, I did have a 1999 Plymouth Breeze someone gave me that came out of Michigan. It was my tetanus car. The Rockers were completely rusted out with jagged edges. If you were wearing shorts getting in and out you were bleeding. Used for a work car