tanabe nf210 vs. TRD lowering springs??

[static808]

greetings everyone! the wifey recently saw a yaris liftback at work, and immediately said that she wanted to lower the car. i couldnt believe my ears! my wife wants to lower a commuter car! hahaha, well, we are going to order and purchase our yaris jan '07, but need some advice on which lowering springs to purchase: the nf210's or the TRD's?? we were wondering if anyone had some hard facts about these springs, such as inches dropped and spring rates. we would also LOVE subjective feedback, such as how your ride quality differed from the stock setup. we were hoping to find people who have experienced how both lowering springs ride, but feedback one at least one system would be greatly appreciated! thanks guys!

--B

[riceboy]

There's a lot of info to had with a search.....

in any case.. i believe the consensus is that the nf210's are much more aggressive than that TRD's which are rebadged eibachs... If you're getting the car in Jan '07 you might want to wait until then to decide what setup to go with... reason being that a lot of aftermarket companies are working on alternatives right now... otherwise if you want a good deal check out one of the vendors for the straight goods.

[Boo]

There's a lot of info to had with a search.....

in any case.. i believe the consensus is that the nf210's are much more aggressive than that TRD's which are rebadged eibachs... If you're getting the car in Jan '07 you might want to wait until then to decide what setup to go with... reason being that a lot of aftermarket companies are working on alternatives right now... otherwise if you want a good deal check out one of the vendors for the straight goods.

You mean nf210 drop more than TRD springs? I thought the other...
which is:
More drop: -> Less drop
DF210 > TRD > NF210.

Correct me if I am wrong.

[riceboy]

whoops.. my mistake.. you're right...

df - f 1.6 r 1.8
nf - f 1.1 r 1.3

don't know what the numbers are on the trd's.... aren't they about 1.5??

[static808]

yeah, i've been reading threads and it looks like the TRD springs give a slightly lower drop (but not by much) than the NF's. and both seem to give a pretty good ride (very important). we're really interested in keeping the factory warranty, so we're leaning a little towards the TRD's. however, C2AUTOSPL is local to us, and we're going there anyways to get some wheels, so it can be one-stop shopping. i'm just a little curious about why no one can get specific information about spring rates and such on the TRD springs. is it because they're progressive rate, so there is no absolute value given to the overall spring rate?? are there any major differences i should know about progressive versus linear rate springs?? once again, thanks for everyone's tidbits of wisdom...

--B

[heylookitsjames]

i'm just a little curious about why no one can get specific information about spring rates and such on the TRD springs. is it because they're progressive rate, so there is no absolute value given to the overall spring rate?? are there any major differences i should know about progressive versus linear rate springs?? once again, thanks for everyone's tidbits of wisdom...

--B

You are correct about the progressive srping rates... As the spring is compressed, the spring rate sky rockets, so it is impossible to give a static rate. Dynamic rates are worthless for interpretation unless you've taken upper-division mechanical engineering classes.

Progressive springs are great for daily driving as they will have little effect on the feel of the car for a majority of the travel of the spring but are mostly useless for racing since you really cant properly match the spring rate (since there really isn't a constant one) with bound and rebound properties of shocks. Linear rate springs are much easier to tune with and match up with the proper shock but the stiffer you go, the rougher the ride will be

[static808]

Dynamic rates are worthless for interpretation unless you've taken upper-division mechanical engineering classes.

i knew i shoulda taken those instead of upper-division electrical engineering courses. my education has failed me yet again...

--B

[Lafiro]

Well, I have the TRD Sportivo springs installed. They dropped the car a pretty good amount. I did not take any real pictures for before and after or measure it, but the drop looks significant.

As for the ride, I cant go through speed bumps any faster then 5mph anymore, and every bump/hill/ditch is felt. Other then that, the car doesnt sway much/it feels much better in turning and highway driving, it feels more safe knowing it reacts better/doesnt turn sideways on tight turns. But I have to say, its going to suck driving in the snow.

[Chris07LB]

My Tanabe DF210's dropped me 2" in the rear, and just a little over 2" up front.
They are designed to be used with the oem shocks/struts, and sway bar end links. Upgrading to better shocks/struts is always an option.

These will also net a larger drop then the TRD combo, but it not to everyone's liking.

You can also follow my DIY How_To in the DIY section of the site. :cool:

[OgDogg]

I'm faced with the same choice right now. I'm leaning towards the TRD's at the moment though. They are a little more expensive (about $50) but seem like they'd be better at keeping your car from scraping. Here's why after my research.

TRD will drop your car 1.2" and has a 10% stronger spring to keep your car from scraping. $230 (dealership)

NF210 will drop your car 1.2" in the front and 1.6" in the back. It also has a 5% stronger spring which will be less effective at keeping your car from scraping, but will provide a better smoother ride. $180 (ebay)

I'm leaning toward the TRD for 2 reasons. 1, it has a stronger spring and I don't want to scrape. 2, it doesn't drop quite as much so that should also help not scraping.

I'm going with 18" rims so not scraping is the most important thing to me. I say if you're going to go with smaller rims 16" or below, go with the NF210's. If you are going with 17" rims or higher, stick to the TRD. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that's where my research pointed.

[PetersRedYaris]

I think your dead on.

[elsteverino889]

Also trd products will never void your warrenty and if there is ever a prob the dealership might give your probs with aftermarket spings

[gr8yaris]

My first post here.
I have the Tanabe NF and have installed the rear springs. I have not installed the front because I can't locate a manual on how to access the top of the front shock assembly. Any help/info out here on how to/DIY?
Thanks.

[Chris07LB]

My first post here.
I have the Tanabe NF and have installed the rear springs. I have not installed the front because I can't locate a manual on how to access the top of the front shock assembly. Any help/info out here on how to/DIY?
Thanks.



http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14967&postcount=1

Im in Jersey too btw. :smile:

[PetersRedYaris]

I love my new NF210's. Installation was not bad at all. For the front, I removed the wipers, plastic cowel, wiper motor assembly (only two 10mm bolts), then the whole metal assembly under the cowel. It looks like a lot of bolts to remove but trust me, it's really not bad. The whole thing comes right out very easily and goes back together easily with only one person. With all that out of there the engine compartment is very open and easy to work in and the strut towers are wide open.

[gr8yaris]

Thanks folks for the DIY info on replacing the front springs.
BTW, here's some pics of the Tanabe springs.
Real Japanese manufactured :thumbup:

[Chris07LB]

coulda did them for you.. how do you like them?

What exactly do you have then? Your signature says DF, your box says NF.

[Alcott83]

does any one know what spring out there gives you the most aggressive drop for the hatch is it tein... or tanabe? thanks

[spookz]

I think the Tein S.Tech and Tanabe DF's give a very similar drop.

S.Tech - 1.9/1.9
DF210 - 1.6/1.8 (but settle to approx 2.0 all round)

But then again, it's depends on how you describe as being aggressive.. for me, the lowest drop doesn't necessarily mean it's the most aggressive stance..

In the end, they're both very similar.. however Tein's have a stiffer spring rate in the rear and are also progressive (don't think Tanabe's are progressive..)

[Alcott83]

thats what i thought.. which is the overall better spring?

[ToTo]

Tein!

[car-zone]

The NF210 coil spring features a tasteful drop, and produces the best overall ride quality and comfort for a performance lowering spring. The lowered stance of the NF210 gives the car an elegant pose, while the spring rates, which are only slightly raised (up to 5% over stock) retain factory ride quality settings.
This coil spring is extremely popular with luxury tuned vehicles, as well as those with larger diameter wheels that want to eliminate fender gap, but maintain excellent driveability while reducing the risk of damage to wheels that is associated with stiffer suspensions.Comfort especially important on daily driven vehicles, and their passengers. The NF210 provides the best driving experience for all types of roads.

[Chris07LB]

Sounds like an infomercial

[derickveliz2]

Sounds like an infomercial

Yes it does, but works for me.

:thumbsup:

[Treyz]

I switched from DE210's to TRD's. Tanabe's were a bit too low in the rear foor me.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Treyz/spring_drop.jpg

[pokiou]

just quick question... are the nf210 for a 350z the same as the nf210 for a yaris ?

[derickveliz2]

just quick question... are the nf210 for a 350z the same as the nf210 for a yaris ?

I don't think so, Z is about 1,000 pounds heavier! with 230 more horses!


D.

[pokiou]

yea the reason i asked is cause they share the same number.. nf210 and thats the same one a guy is selling from his 350z :(

so how do i know what tanabe springs to get if there all named nf210? is there specific code on them?

[derickveliz2]

These are mine...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PwkducBBLlI/TId3ZSTBcJI/AAAAAAAAbHw/1lMvDvP-vpg/s800/DSC_4180.JPG

[Alpha300]

When installing TRD springs in the front, does one need to cut the plastic spacers? Can someone explain what this is for? If I were to have the TRD springs installed at the dealer, would they cut the spacers too? It just seems a little bit of a hack job!

[derickveliz2]

When installing TRD springs in the front, does one need to cut the plastic spacers? Can someone explain what this is for?

Yes it's a must, you will be lower and don't want to hit the bump stop. Cut it in half at least.

D.

[Klink10]

When installing TRD springs in the front, does one need to cut the plastic spacers? Can someone explain what this is for? If I were to have the TRD springs installed at the dealer, would they cut the spacers too? It just seems a little bit of a hack job!

Wasn't it you that asked about this on another thread? You don't cut anything for the install of TRD springs front or rear according to the directions I got with them when purchased from Sparks. I still have the directions.

[Alpha300]

Wasn't it you that asked about this on another thread? You don't cut anything for the install of TRD springs front or rear according to the directions I got with them when purchased from Sparks. I still have the directions.

Yes, I did ask the question in another thread. And the it was a unanimous NO to cutting the bump stop.

Thank you for the good advice. I've purchased the springs but have not received them yet. That's why I haven't consulted the supplied instructions yet. But its nice to know what to do in advance!

[derickveliz2]

This is what I did:

LINK (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1096&highlight=bump)

D.

[SAV912]

I was on TRD springs and OEM shocks for a brief period before going full TRD springs/shocks combination and I did NOT cut the bumpstops. Cutting them is not necessary in either case as the spring is stiff enough relative to the drop to prevent you from 'riding the bumpstops'. People cut bumpstops to get an extra couple millimeters out of their springs when they settle, and that's about it really.

-C

[Blue Beast]

I installed the TRD Sportivo springs, TRD sport shocks and TRD rear sway bar. This dropped the car a 1.5" in the front and rear.

As for the ride, it is firm but not too and feels extremely stable in corners at any speed. The improvement over the stock set up was beyond my expectations, it feels like a completely different car. The last car I drove that handled this well was my 1968 Fiat 124 Sport Coupe with Pirrelli P3's.

[Obsean]

Hey Folks

I just got a new 2012 Yaris and wondered if the nf210 springs will fit on the 2012 version?

Thanks

[dvslegend79]

I work for a toyota dealership and do pre delivery service to them. The 12's have pretty much the same set up suspension and the previous models. Too new so theres not too much info yet, but by judging the manufacturing, it looks pretty much the same.