View Full Version : Sedan Door Panel Deadening
sqcomp
05-07-2009, 04:49 AM
I have many more pictured than what is actually shown here. This should give anyone who wants a look inside the door of a sedan a pretty darned good idea of what to expect with a proper deadening of the door.
My my...this looks like a door:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0209.jpg
The power controls removed. It is just one screw and the removal of the control panel:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0210.jpg
The sail panel removed:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0211.jpg
The door skin off, with the handle screw, the pop pin right below the sail panel removed, and the moisture barrier tossed:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0213.jpg
Laying down deadening on the outer door skin:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0216.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0217.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0218.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0221.jpg
A Dynasorb panel added behind the stock speaker:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0220.jpg
Building a base to put the deadeing over, it's initially placed with hot glue and then silicone:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0223.jpg
Deadening of inner door skin:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0226.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0227.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0225.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0228.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0229.jpg
I put a second layer on the bigger "open" areas that have the reinforcement under it:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0231.jpg
1/4" of Ensolite roughly cut to fit the door:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0233.jpg
This is GREAT contact glue:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0232.jpg
The Ensolite on the door panel:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0234.jpg
Here's the lock and handle lines wrapped in Ensolite...juuuust in case:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0236.jpg
After the Ensolite was put on, I trimmed it up a little bit. The inside door panel had some styrofoam that I removed. I put more deadening on the panel itself. When I get some time I'll take some corrugated egg crate foam and hit the rear bottom of the panel for my own satisfaction.
The door panel already had a nice solid sound when it closed...now, it's a very satisfying, weighty sound. I'll kick up another posting when I do the trunk and the floor pan. It's going to be a few months before the Hybrid Audio L841-3 set goes in. Of course, the pictures will follow with that. The alarm comes first...It's a nice little AutoPage RS-1000. That happens next month. No pictures on that, sorry!
WolfWings
05-07-2009, 06:50 AM
Very nice. The ONLY thing you could have done more over-the-top would have been to ensolite the interior of the door before sealing it up like I did. Good find on those DynaXorb squares, those are one of the few Dynamat products I consider worth the money.
staticorex
05-07-2009, 12:25 PM
Wow. That is overkill. :p Looks great and professional, I just have some dynomat and I don't have any problems. How much weight does all that add?
sqcomp
05-07-2009, 01:23 PM
Wolf,
I hear you. I took my time on this door...seeing as it was my first Yaris door. I'm planning on doing a little more trimming and some more addidtions. The problem for me right now is that I don't have the component set in yet. There are several things I want to do before that happens. The other issue is that this component set has an 8" mid woofer...
*chuckle*
...I'm thinking about fitment issues and clearance issues. Until I get that midwoofer mocked up on that door, I really shouldn't go all out. You understand I'm sure. An 8" woofer goes in a 6" cutout. I LOVED Toyota's three factory rivets for the speaker too! On one hand I was saying, "WTF?!?!" And on the other it was something like, "Interesting...time savings, solid mounting, and good engineering. Nice."
I suppose the entire point of my response is, Yup. I'll get there eventually.
Those dynasorb square will pay off for me with the bigger midwoofers. Right now the sound has changed so drastically in the door that while still using the stock system, I'm still not going to get the full effect as I would with an aftermarket set. But oh boy, that aftermarket set is sweeeeet. 8" midwoof, 4" midrange, and a 1" tweeter of build and engineer quality like no one's ever seen...
Static,
Oh I hear you on the overkill part! I really could have stopped with the three sheets of deadening. It looked great on it's own. That's what my two friends (who own the shop where I did this) mentioned. They loved the idea of them not having to do this! LOL! Our goal though demands this type over "over the top" mentality when it comes to sound deadening. Especially in the noisy little Yaris. Next year this car will be working the IASCA SQ circuit. There's a Toyota Echo owner I really want to meet who has a world championship winning vehicle with a 10" woofer in the dash. The three sheets of matting was probably about five pounds perhaps (I may be underestimating). The two layers of Ensolite was VERY light. That is just a sound absorber and doesn't REALLY add any significant mass. I'll be adding a dash mat with some Ensolite on the underside of it to kill dash reflections when we mount the tweeters in the a pillars. All in all, the weight added to the door is not much BUT...you do feel a big difference when closing the door and with the way even the stock speakers respond.
The root cause for me however was the talk on this board (one member in particular who is very close to me locally) that I had no substance to the advice I was dishing out. Well...I've decided to have some people eat crow. When they tell you guys that you can't have a good sounding system with a factory source (amongst other things)? Then they say I have a messiah complex when I tell them they're absolutely wrong. I have motivation to say the least.
I suppose the other question someone might ask is how long did this take me for one door? Well, the answer isn't given at a "working" pace. It is given at a have an amber ale (Lagunitas Censored is a bit to hoppy for me, the Pine Cone amber is next week)and a take your time pace. I started a 4pm and finished at 11:30pm. *chuckle* I know...that's a LOT of time. Well, it's the first door, I'm taking EVERY detail in, talking with my friends on little details, and I'm not trying to screw it up (or loose a drop of beer). There was plenty of staring and contemplating what I wanted to REALLY do and how far to take the whole thing in this session. As per my signature I was VERY patient. The passenger's side door panel I'll do next week. That'll probably take less than half the time with improved results. I'm satisfied with it so far. I know that once the component set is in there that I'll be playing "catch up to the squeak"! Mr. Murphy will definately be in my front end (especially the door panels) with 300 available Watts per speaker! Yes, I'm WAY overkilling the power availability for the component set. These Legatia Pro tweeters will be working for the money! Count on that! ...Actually in all fairness, I don't even listen to my music as loud as probably 90% of people out there. So the amplifiers won't even be breaking anywhere close to a sweat (the gains will barely be cracked open). Three amplifiers for the component set. Thank the lord for the phrase HEADROOM!
You'll be seeing not only this car but an old Malibu get worked over for some killer systems.
talnlnky
05-10-2009, 03:42 PM
can't see the images mang.... repost or pm me for me e-mail.
also... neighbors moved... so i'm finding it very difficult to steal wifi now. I usually only get on for about 5-10mins at work now days
sqcomp
05-11-2009, 06:08 AM
I must have done something on photobucket to screw that up. It's all back up. Sorry to hear about the lack of wi-fi brudda. I'll tell you, I could really use you up at the shop on Tuesday. An extra set of hands for the passenger's side deadening would make it go fast!
I might get the trunk lid done on tuesday too. I bought some Daptex latex foam to fill the skeleton of the trunk lid. Got the blue tape ready to hold everything in. I'll spare you guys more door pics...maybe I'll post one of the rear doors just to look at. I gues I'll put up the trunk lid though. Something tells me that thing will be too heavy to keep open...
808_Yaris
05-11-2009, 06:19 AM
looking good! i need to sound deaden my car soon tooo!!
sqcomp
05-11-2009, 11:32 AM
I welcome any questions about the process. I'd be happy to help too if you buy the plane ticket!
808_Yaris
05-11-2009, 12:11 PM
You sound deafened all your door panels?
sqcomp
05-11-2009, 12:53 PM
Not yet. I'm doing a single part, depending on if I have an extra pair of hands at the shop, every week. Tomorrow, I'll be deadening the passenger's door and probably the trunk lid (because I have an extra pair of hands). I may do the rear doors on Saturday if I can find some time after getting attacked by a WCSO dog...
Gotta have fun! Here doggy!
talnlnky
05-11-2009, 05:33 PM
looks good.... *looks around* ok, back to work. I'd be there on saturday but I promised the GF we'd go backpacking. 2 hrs each way is a bit far for me to drive for an evening unless I don't have to be at work early the next day (or can get off a few hrs early) .... by the time i'd get there i'd only have a lil time until i'd want to drive back home.
sqcomp
05-12-2009, 02:53 AM
It's all good. Something tells me I'll survive. Besides, I've got some Lagunitas Censored Amber Ale to keep me busy at the shop. Bring on the passenger's side! Woot!
YarisSedan
05-12-2009, 02:58 AM
Its really gona suck when your window regulator or doo rloc actuator goes bad lol.
WolfWings
05-12-2009, 04:52 AM
Its really gona suck when your window regulator or doo rloc actuator goes bad lol.
Yeah... one of the reasons I bought a Yaris with manual windows and manual locks, since I knew I'd be sealing up the doors with sound deadener.
sqcomp
05-12-2009, 12:16 PM
You say so but the thing is, it really doesn't worry me. All that'll happen is I'll open up the panel and remove the deadening on the access holes. I know where the mounts are for the motors and it looks like it comes off in one piece.
If the motors go dead, it'll give me a chance to use Autoloc products. It'd be pretty cool to shave the door handles on a Yaris sedan. Suicide doors might go too far...
abdallah380
05-12-2009, 03:08 PM
so by doing this will it also stop the annoying rattle when u drive over rough surface or bumps?
sqcomp
05-13-2009, 03:42 AM
That one made me smile abdallah. The road noise is going away indeed. I'm prepping the car for a sound system upgrade. As I mentioned in the first post...It's going to be a few months before the Hybrid Audio L841-3 set goes in. The plans for the subwoofers are to load them into the back deck. Two 10" Illusion Audio ND-10"s (the REAL and original shallow mount SQ subs). These right here:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0277.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0278.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0280.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0281.jpg
Sorry, off topic a bit. Okay, I got the trunk lid done today along with the front passenger's door. The passenger's door is pretty much the same as the driver's side door with the exception of the different control panel. I have pictures if you absolutely want to see them. More interesting is the trunk lid. Before I touched it, the thing wouldn't close under it's own weight. Now...well, let's just say it's a bit different.
It was nice enough today to do some work outside, so I took the factory clips along with the trim panel off the trunk lid:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0244.jpg
Looking at it, there are some major voids on the top of the trunk lid. The way that Toyota engineered it is really nice to keep the weight down, very efficient. Well, I killed the dead spaces with some foam:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0249.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0248.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0247.jpg
I put a layer of deadening on, why I didn't take a picture of it, I'll never understand. However, you can see the deadening on the edges in the next series of pictures. I put on not two but three layers of Ensolite on the trunk lid. That's almost 1/2" of asound absorbing foam OVER the deadening and the expanding foam already in the skeleton of the trunk lid. Can someone say obsessive overkill?
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0253.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0252.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0251.jpg
Now comes the stock cover. I did trim up the foam from the previous picture. Yes...it was a bit more tight than the stock fit. Notice the white foam in the lid on the right side:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0254.jpg
Here's the solution to hide that foam (thank you Justin):
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0259.jpg
Here's a nice weapon to have on your side when using glue:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0265.jpg
How about a shameless plug for my favorite shop...I'm killing the wiring and the moisture barrier off the door before the passenger's door gets treated:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0260.jpg
*sigh*
I chopped the time it took for the passenger's side door by half compared to the driver's side door. This is pretty reassuring to me. This means that the rear doors will probably only take me a couple hours each to do to the level I want. I will be killing the door panel itself more on those since there aren't any door speakers going into those.
Oh! Keep your eyes peeled to how I mount the mid woofers in a couple months. I've got a NICE trick that will bring the sound of ANY speaker to the next level. That being said, it does require you to chop into the door...but hell, I'm going all the way plus some, I might as well do it to the best of my ability. All I'll say at this point is that the stock door panel speaker openings are SO "constricting" sound-wise. One of the owners of the shop showed me a little trick that is pretty much the difference between night and day on the same speakers.
I think this Saturday I'll look at doing some of the floor pan. Whether that be the back or the front, I'll sleep on it. If I do the front, it'll probably only be one side or the other. I'm thinking of two layers of deadening and four laters of ensolite (over 1/2" of ensolite) on the flat parts of the floor pan.
abdallah380
05-13-2009, 02:56 PM
thanks for the reply bro. if it helps in stopping annoying rattle. i guess i should better start working on sound deadening too :)
sqcomp
05-13-2009, 04:42 PM
Rattle is interesting...
I'm finding resonation on (of course) the "weakest" link in the doors. That would be the window and lock controls. I've got a solution that is partially implemented however, I don't want to go all out on the panel itself until I get the 8"s in the doors. Some Ensolite around the flanges where the control panel meets the door is working well. I just have to get it on all the surfaces. I've done the front "triangle" and the middle but as with water, the vibration simply moves to the place of least resistance.
Still, the doors overall are spectacular. One of the shop owners mentioned, and he wasn't kidding, that the Yaris doors are "more dead than a Mercedes E class by a long shot". I asked him if he was messing around and he said not at all...He rapped his knuckles on the body side of the trunk, it had the thin sheet metal sound, he went forward to the rear passenger's door, it had the thin sheet metal sound, and then he hit the front passenger's door...it went from that hollow sheet metal sound to a dull, diffused, thud. The neat thing about the sound was that the attack of the sound was very slow, almost muddy and the decay in the sound was quick to die out.
With both front doors done, even with the stock speakers, I'm picking up more subtle details in the music that I'm listening to. From a percussion beat that I haven't heard before to the overall crispness, the notable and most definite bass response increase from the stock speakers. Are they better than an aftermarket set...not any of them I'd choose no. But the thing is, this deadening project is the base for a sweet system over this next six to eight months.
Having seen and consulted with the top SQ guys in the country, I know what I'm doing is correct. The one thing I would suggest for ANYONE who is looking at a sound project. If you have questions, search locally, befriend a good installer. The owners of the shop I frequent (I won't say work at because they don't pay me and I DO NOT want to be put into the IASCA Expert class), I have known since 2000. I know their families and what is going on with their lives. Knowing people like this will give you guys a little edge, both in the way of insider knowledge (ask me about Morel USA and Exile Audio). Possible pricing breaks on equipment are also a reality, I may be referring to simply a friends discount or free interconnects and fuses that were purchased by the shop for pennies on the dollar, or even dealer accommodation prices from the manufacturer (with the latter here you really have to know the shop owners).
There are so many benefits that outweigh the immediate satisfaction of seeing a "low price" on the internet. I know in my case, no matter what happens with my system, that I will have absolute backing from both owners of the shop, the reps (no I'm not buying anything from the DUII rep-even though it's good stuff-), and the manufacturers. In my case, I have been talking/consulting with the owner of Hybrid Audio and the owners/engineers of Exile Audio. The Hybrid Audio owner is flying out to meet with the shop owners...obviously pushing his product, but also giving the consulting and support needed to make his product successful in our market.
...wait, am I writing about sound deadening or drilling industry points? Sorry guys! I get distracted sometimes...
WolfWings
05-13-2009, 05:51 PM
Hell, I'm amazed how many people just worry about 'perfectly covering' a car when they install sound deadening.
Not everywhere needs as much, and some areas need extra! Looking at my install in my doors, it looks ugly as sin to most people because I patchworked in dozens (literally, about three dozen) pieces. Two or three at a time. Go outside, slam the door... listen... slam it again... rapraprap all over, agree with someone sitting inside the car what spot was worst... three more hunks of material... lather, rinse, repeat.
I can say for a fact, on a 3-door at least, the inside faces of the rear wheel wells are prime places to put a LITTLE material, to make a huge difference. Took one trip with a friend riding in bare sheetmetal, two times rolling it up and down the gravel driveway nearby, and one trip after we were all done to find final spots that were noisy, same idea. It's AMAZING what a difference it makes, having a properly padded, foamed, and sealed interior. Next up: The roof!~!
talnlnky
05-13-2009, 09:42 PM
ok... so the wire grate... where'd you buy it? I was at a Jerry's (like Home depot) last weekend and say some gutter grate stuff that would work unless the holes were wider than 6 or so inches. Also it was curved/warped so it'd resist being in the flat mounted position.
I haven't looked around too hard yet, but someplace has to sell the stuff on a roll somewhere.
Also, are you going to mat/foam the dash.... I know there's a TSB about dash rattle... and my car started to have that issue... pisses me off... I have rattle on my dash! WTF to the millionth power. Will have to argue with the dealership about getting some worked done i guess. I don't want to rip apart my dash.. .and I know they prolly won't want to either. AND I REALLY don't want to have to pay for it.
Oh yeah... Remember those 4.5's I showed you.. the XBl^2 fullranges... I found them when I went home 2 weekends ago... Just need to remove the bucking magnet. Got everything I need minus the time & tools to mount the 8's in my doors and glass the 4's in the kicks. Even found some decent tweets in case I decide to add a tweet to the setup and make it a 3way.
sqcomp
05-14-2009, 03:30 AM
Oooh! Pics on the 4 1/2"s are in order. If we get them up to the shop, I'm sure we can get the magnets off...
I will probably separate the dash and put some ensolite on the edges. I'll be working with a dash mat after a little while. I'll probably mod that mat as well. The final deadening will happen when the components arrive.
I think that if you get the three way in, we need to take a trip up to Vancouver BC next year to enter some of the IASCA comps. What is happening with the crossover with the three way idea?
Oh, the grating? It's a perforated plastic matting that bars use to put the glasses on after coming out of the washer. I'll find the receipt to give you the part number. It's SUPER cheap, something like $1.30 per foot. I got 5 feet. It is probably more than I need. If I don't use it all, I'll give what I have left to you.
Let me know.
WolfWings
05-14-2009, 09:29 PM
ok... so the wire grate... where'd you buy it?
Easier solution that works just as well: Get two of the wal-mart 'House For Sale' signs in thick 20-mil plastic for $2 each, a caulking gun for another $2, and a tube of black paintable silicon caulk for $2-$5 more.
Lay up the plastic sheets, cut to the profile of the holes in your door, lay a line of caulk around the edge of the sign and stick it on the holes. Let sit for ten minutes, put a layer of sound dampener mat over top to hold everything tightly in place, done.
Has the advantage that removing the panels doesn't involve peeling sound-mat AND unscrewing gummed-up screws, just cut down to the panel, pry it off, another bead of silicon and you can stick it back in place.
talnlnky
05-14-2009, 10:30 PM
Oooh! Pics on the 4 1/2"s are in order. If we get them up to the shop, I'm sure we can get the magnets off...
I will probably separate the dash and put some ensolite on the edges. I'll be working with a dash mat after a little while. I'll probably mod that mat as well. The final deadening will happen when the components arrive.
I think that if you get the three way in, we need to take a trip up to Vancouver BC next year to enter some of the IASCA comps. What is happening with the crossover with the three way idea?
Oh, the grating? It's a perforated plastic matting that bars use to put the glasses on after coming out of the washer. I'll find the receipt to give you the part number. It's SUPER cheap, something like $1.30 per foot. I got 5 feet. It is probably more than I need. If I don't use it all, I'll give what I have left to you.
Let me know.
Yeah... i'll try to get some pics of the 4's up, tho keep in mind they were in a car door for like 1-1.5 years... and sitting in a box for another 2 or so years
I'll also try to get you some pics of the sub box... its all bondo'd (rage gold actually) but just need to sand and paint it. Will prolly do the sanding tonight.
X-over...
Active for the lowpass on the 8 (AC 2xs, got chips from like 150-300hz in about 40hz increments)
High pass on the 4 is the same as the 8lowpass via the AC 2xs
No lowpass planned (maybe a simple 1st order)
Highpass on the tweet will prolly be a 1st or 2nd order and set pretty high (10-15k) just to get the last octave which the 4's have trouble with.
The 4's I have are the old school wr125s not the new FR125 which plays a bit better above 10k.
For the most part I want to keep the electronics simple.... kiss in the signal.... not so much in the physical install.
nth09
05-14-2009, 10:58 PM
sqcomp, why didnt your post came earlier?!?!?! I paid quite abit to get these done over in Singapore. This is excellent.
May I suggest to you to deaden your wheel arch as well. Take out that plastic wheel arch, lay a few pieces of deadening stuff on it. Then cut a few slabs of those gooey black stuff and reach underneath the arch and paste it over the body. It helps to reduce another 20% (my personal feel) of noise.
I like your boot DIY but it is a pity, Toyota doesn't include that black stock carpet cover for our boot. It is going to look horrible with shiny aluminium backing sheets showing.
Nonetheless a very good job indeed.
sqcomp
05-15-2009, 02:25 AM
NTH,
For your boot, why don't you order the cover from one of the vendors on Yarisworld? I know that Ken over at sparks Toyota will do whatever he can to help.
You could also get the foam cut well enough to cover the deadening. The nice thing is that the foam is stretchy. It cuts easily but doesn't cut straight because of the give...if that makes sense.
As for the wheel arch, my biggest concern at this moment is the floor pan (including the firewall) and the trunk. After those it'll be the back deck, the roof, and then the dash. By that time I should have the component set. I'll be concentrating on the door panels after modding them with my little install trick. The panels will be HEAVY no doubt. After all this, the system will be in the car and I'll see (or rather hear) how all the resonances reveal themselves with all that power going to the component set. Technically I'll have more power available to the components than the subwoofers (with the way I'll have the woofers loaded). I'm actually a bit anxious to move into the pro categories so that I can have the Exile guys modify the amplifiers...I've seen what they've done to the old PG ZPA and Ti amplifiers...
I'm sure I'll see something interesting when I take out the carpet in the front. I'm really interested to see that dead-pedal removed to see what the driver's side kick looks like overall, the room behind and around the panel are going to be VERY important. I really don't want to go down to the 3" midrange due to the extent of weight and construction time it would add to me putting it up in the a-pillar with the tweeter. It will also add a LOT of weight that the airbag would have to push out of the way if it ever needed to deploy. This midrange is THE focal point of the three way set...seeing as this speaker will be playing the most sensitive range of music that the human ear perceives.
Be ready to take notes on the kick when it happens. This is THE make or break part of the entire install speakerwise.
This whole project is taking up all my free thoughts. All I want to do is work on it, day in and day out. It's a sickness...
nth09
05-15-2009, 06:51 AM
NTH,
For your boot, why don't you order the cover from one of the vendors on Yarisworld? I know that Ken over at sparks Toyota will do whatever he can to help.
You could also get the foam cut well enough to cover the deadening. The nice thing is that the foam is stretchy. It cuts easily but doesn't cut straight because of the give...if that makes sense.
As for the wheel arch, my biggest concern at this moment is the floor pan (including the firewall) and the trunk. After those it'll be the back deck, the roof, and then the dash. By that time I should have the component set. I'll be concentrating on the door panels after modding them with my little install trick. The panels will be HEAVY no doubt. After all this, the system will be in the car and I'll see (or rather hear) how all the resonances reveal themselves with all that power going to the component set. Technically I'll have more power available to the components than the subwoofers (with the way I'll have the woofers loaded). I'm actually a bit anxious to move into the pro categories so that I can have the Exile guys modify the amplifiers...I've seen what they've done to the old PG ZPA and Ti amplifiers...
I'm sure I'll see something interesting when I take out the carpet in the front. I'm really interested to see that dead-pedal removed to see what the driver's side kick looks like overall, the room behind and around the panel are going to be VERY important. I really don't want to go down to the 3" midrange due to the extent of weight and construction time it would add to me putting it up in the a-pillar with the tweeter. It will also add a LOT of weight that the airbag would have to push out of the way if it ever needed to deploy. This midrange is THE focal point of the three way set...seeing as this speaker will be playing the most sensitive range of music that the human ear perceives.
Be ready to take notes on the kick when it happens. This is THE make or break part of the entire install speakerwise.
This whole project is taking up all my free thoughts. All I want to do is work on it, day in and day out. It's a sickness...
i did ask the local dealers on the cover. They are charging ridiculous sky high pricing. I've seen the real thing before. To me, that crap is not worth US$50. Beside, they are selling it at US$80 here. I'm just looking for a chance to DIY.
That is not a sickness, just an obsession to better ICE. I'm on your side. Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:
sqcomp
05-21-2009, 03:52 AM
Okay,
This week I decided to do the back seat area. This was fairly easy, especially when you know what you’re looking at.
I’m working with a sedan that has the folding seats. The first thing I did was to remove the back seat carpet skirt clips, then the Styrofoam spacer. After that spacer is out there are four 12mm bolts that hold the back seats onto the little sub frame.
I suppose I can start the pictures:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0282.jpg
Notice the middle rotating bolt swings. After that you can take off the seat belts from the seats. At this point you have to take the back seat bench cushion off to get at the main seat sub frame. It’s a good tug on both sides that releases the two seat clips from their respective holders. The seat belts will go through the holes (obviously).
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0285.jpg
I took the seat belts off at this point.
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0287.jpg
Here’s the right side looking down bird’s eye view at the side seatbelt and frame bolts.
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0286.jpg
This next one is without the seat belts. The black sub frame piece comes out rather simply with three bolts. You’ll need to remove the side trim panels. Those have a single push clip on the bottom and two on the side that come out rather easily.
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0288.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0293.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0294.jpg
With that black sub frame off, I went for the silver seat frame.
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0289-1.jpg
There is a front cover to the seat frame. It comes in three pieces. On the little side clips (you’ll know what I mean when you get there), there’s a center piece that you have to push before you take the panel off. Doing two things at once is always fun.
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0290.jpg
No mas on the frame…ready for the deadening.
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0295.jpg
The top of the bench with deadening.
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0296.jpg
I brought the deadening down under the carpeting.
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0297.jpg
I then laid down some Ensolite.
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0300.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0299.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0301.jpg
And then under the carpet…
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0302.jpg
This is taken from the right side looking forward.
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0303.jpg
I decided to call it done until next week when I take out the passenger’s seat and move onto the right side up into the foot well and firewall.
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0306.jpg
There was nothing surprising about putting it all back together. It was all on cruise control at that point. The ride home was interesting. The back of the car was nice and quiet. I’m looking forward to doing the front.
sqcomp
05-28-2009, 03:43 AM
Well...I started the removal of the center console and the seats today. This also included some of the trim around the radio and the kick panels. I would have removed the carpeting but I got stuck looking for the correct socket to take the seat bolts off. I thought it was an 8 point socket...nope, it was a reverse torx. This quandry and also helping with a nice little multi media install on a Ford Expedition...that sort of took all the wind out of me today.
At least I've got Saturday off to finish my silencing of the car.
I got so far as to get the passenger's seat being removed (I'll take pics before going to work tomorrow). Hppefully I can get the carpet out tomorrow as well. If I can do that on Thursday and lay down the Roadkill on Friday, that'll give me the opportunity to lay down the ensolite on Saturday and possibly kill the back doors as well.
Heres a pic of the rear of the console after I killed off the rear cup holder trim:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0321.jpg
Here's the front of the center console with the radio trim removed:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0320.jpg
Here's the radio itself...easy peasy:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0319.jpg
Here's the center console after I killed off the two panels that cover the front and mid part of said console:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0318.jpg
Of course the removed console. There are two screws on each rear side of the console. You also have two bolts hidden under the little pad in the console storage box. They're the same as the ones on the front that you see when you remove the bottom radio trim piece:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0326.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0325.jpg
After trying unsuccesfully to remove the seat bolts using the wrong socket type, I went so far as to almost completely remove the dash cover. Only four screws hold the entire dash in. The only real thing that stops the dash from being removed after those four screws is the a pillar trim panels that hold the dash down on each side...anyway, I first took out the cluster trim piece and deadened it on it's most open space (on the bottom):
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0323.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0324.jpg
The instrument cluster. Two harness clips, one on each side. Notice the screws on the bottom of the white part on the cluster. Those are two of the four that hold the entire dash cover on...wait, I think you can also see the other two screw holes...nope, just one on the right side there under the right side cluster screw there...:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0322.jpg
Now, here's the shift boot and front part of the console cover:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0334.jpg
The radio trim now dead:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0333.jpg
Center console dead:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0332.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0331.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0330.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0329.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0328.jpg
...And the rear panel for the center console (the 12V plug and E-brake):
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0335.jpg
And the last picture I took of the Yaris panels before the finish of the SUV. This is the left and right cargo pockets at the front of the center console:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0336.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0337.jpg
Tomorrow, I'll take pics of the removed seat(s) and possibly the removed carpet.
sqcomp
05-28-2009, 02:33 PM
Here's the start of the deadening on the passenger's side. I'll be adding the ensolite on Saturday. Tomorrow I may work more to connect the back and front sound deadening on the passenger's side. I left a nice little clip remover at the shop so it's going to be a little bit of a challenge. We'll see what happens.
Without any further...
We're looking at the unimproved passenger's side with the seat removed (obviously):
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0343.jpg
Here's the carpeting moved back:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0344.jpg
And with all the miscellaneous factory "stuff" removed:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0345.jpg
Here's the kick:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0346.jpg
The first layer goes down:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0347.jpg
The second layer without the center being covered:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0348.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0349.jpg
And with the center being covered:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0350.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0351.jpg
Starting on the kick:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0352.jpg
More of the top side of the floor pan:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0353.jpg
Here's the front mounting crossmember:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0357.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0358.jpg
Here's an overall picture. I ended up putting two layers overall with three layers in some spots:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0359.jpg
And with the carpeting and the little factory inserts back in:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0361.jpg
I may have to put the passenger's seat back in so the seat belt alarm doesn't annoy the shit out of me on the way to and from work...more to come tomorrow.
sqcomp
05-29-2009, 04:45 PM
Friday's pre-work action...
The driver's side of the Yaris. I only had two sheets of Roadkill to work with. I'll finish up tomorrow with maybe a half a sheet on the floor panel. I'll connect the front and back deadening on Saturday along with a couple layers of ensolite. The noise floor in the car is already noticably lower. If I have time tomorrow, I'll do the rear doors. Aside from the roof and the rear deck, the cabin will be finished.
Without further...
Driver's side sans seat:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0362.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0360-1.jpg
You'll have to remove the 10mm bolt that secures the trunk pop and fuel door. The piece is also connected by a slot clip. After you remove the bolt, nudge the unit forward and up cautiously. Try not to break the back clip, notice that clip on the second picture:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0363.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0364.jpg
Here's the floor pan with the factory foam and padding:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0365.jpg
...And a bare floor pan:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0366.jpg
The start of the deadening:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0367.jpg
Almost finished...I just ran out of Roadkill:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0368.jpg
talnlnky
05-29-2009, 05:36 PM
What'd you think of the rear passenger foot area? In the hatchback that was the only place I went 3 layers thick (all else was one or two). I probably would've done up to 5 if I had 2 rolls of raammat when I was doing it.
WolfWings
05-29-2009, 09:59 PM
Yeah... I went 3 layers thick there in a couple spots myself on my LB. I *DID* go 5 layers thick on the rear quarter-panels on my 3dr though.
talnlnky
05-30-2009, 12:56 PM
Yeah... I went 3 layers thick there in a couple spots myself on my LB. I *DID* go 5 layers thick on the rear quarter-panels on my 3dr though.
see thats the great thing about my planned install... No subs in the back, so no need to go crazy on that part of the car.
I will however have 8" midbass drivers with a one way x-max of 12mm in each door being chocked with 160rms each. Which means my doors have to be dead as forged aluminum otherwise i'll go crazy.
yaris-me
05-31-2009, 03:12 AM
Amazing! This should be a sticky!:thumbsup:
808_Yaris
05-31-2009, 05:26 PM
this should be a diy!
WolfWings
05-31-2009, 08:45 PM
see thats the great thing about my planned install... No subs in the back, so no need to go crazy on that part of the car.
I will however have 8" midbass drivers with a one way x-max of 12mm in each door being chocked with 160rms each. Which means my doors have to be dead as forged aluminum otherwise i'll go crazy.
Oh, I'm running flat-stock speakers and no amp or sub on my system. It took that much deadening in specific spots (about half a square foot is actual 5 layers thick) to stop the side-panels from going 'ting' when rapped with my knuckles. =^.^= I was going purely for silencing the outside world out, as I'm content with the stock sound system aside from the head unit.
talnlnky
05-31-2009, 09:53 PM
Oh, I'm running flat-stock speakers and no amp or sub on my system. It took that much deadening in specific spots (about half a square foot is actual 5 layers thick) to stop the side-panels from going 'ting' when rapped with my knuckles. =^.^= I was going purely for silencing the outside world out, as I'm content with the stock sound system aside from the head unit.
haha... ok... yeah, I disconnected my rear speakers... and have no plans of ever giving them power again.
sqcomp
06-01-2009, 04:04 AM
Okie dokie...
After I finish posting the pictures I have some news. I'm still trying to not be sick...bear with me.
What we're looking at right now is the front with the seats out:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0377.jpg
Here's the trunk pop and the fuel door again. Remember 10mm deep socket:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0363-1.jpg
Now, you're ready to take the carpeting up AFTER you get the seat belts on both sides. Pop those panels off and then use a 15mm socket to get those bolts off. Easy peasy. Oh, I almost forgot, of course you'll have the center console out...I think I already covered it, if I didn't remind me and I will. The carpet won't come off without you removing part of the back of the E-brake skeleton, don't worry, It’s easy. It’s three 10mm bolts. Her's what it looks like removed:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0378.jpg
Here we are in the middle of the deadening:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0379.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0380.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0381.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0382.jpg
Here's the little bits of deadening:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0383.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0384.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0386.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0387.jpg
...The Ensolite is being applied:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0385.jpg
Here's some lunch time sexyness! Whoot! I've got good video of it too...MAN this bike was sexy:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0370.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0372.jpg
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0371.jpg
Dry clutch...sounds like a bag of tools being rattled. Works like a champ though:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0373.jpg
Ahh...The sound of it. Better than sex...sort of:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0374.jpg
I thought you'd enjoy this addition:
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/th_CIMG0376.jpg (http://s720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/?action=view¤t=CIMG0376.flv)
Man that sounded hot. Anyway, I have more pictures. For the more important news, I'll be finishing as much of the Yaris as possible before two weeks. After the 13th, I get shipped to Ft. Stewart, GA. Then it's off (via Hunter Army Airfield most likely) to Iraq for 9 months. I REALLY wanted to finish the car before I had to go the big sandbox. I'll post a couple more times no worries. I just want to get back whole and sane...
Lafiro
06-01-2009, 10:09 AM
Wow, what a way to make the car quieter.
I will be doing this soon because the road here are horrible/driving at highway speeds makes the cabin sound like its rumbling softly constantly, and its annoying cause the music has to be put up a lot to counter the noise.
sqcomp
06-01-2009, 10:45 AM
I hear you on the road noise. Even with all the factory sound damping removed, this car is a good bit quieter than before. The funny thing is, with the noise floor lowered, I'm finding new squeaks and rattles. That damned dome light is going to be the death of me. I'm going to drop the headliner eventually to kill that squeaking up there.
supmet
06-01-2009, 01:51 PM
This thread is awesome. Bookmarked for when I decide to deaden my car!
sqcomp
06-01-2009, 03:47 PM
There's SO much more to do yet. Unfortunately the Army calls. If you have any questions about what I've done so far...please, drop me a line. Understand though if for whatever reason I don't get back to you immediately.
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