1zz injectors suit the S/C just fine

[LtNoogie]

Today I installed a set of 1.8L 1zz injectors that I bought off of eBay because the tC injectors that I have been using are causing CELs for a rich condition every time I start the car.

The next picture is of the blue 1zz injectors (PN 23250-0D050) going into the fuel rail to replace the grey tC injectors. The stock injectors are PN 23250-21040. There's got to be a way find the specs on these two injectors.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/DSCN0074.jpg

Previously, when I was on the freeway and at WOT, my wideband gauge bottomed out at an AFR reading of 10 because it could not go lower. With the 1zz injectors, the AFR at WOT now reads 11.3 on the wideband.

The following picture is of the data I logged. At WOT, ignition timing remained nicely in the double digits (here showing 16 degrees). AFR on the data logger bottoms out at 12.03. When I was running lean, I was getting an AFR reading of 14.9 on the wideband and ignition timing was down in the single digits around 8. Perhaps a little water/meth injection to cool the mixture and I'll get ignition timing up in the 20's again, which is what is is when boost is turned off.

Isn't tuning fun?

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/1zzinjectorsWOT.jpg


BTW, If you're going to do this, you can save yourself some future headaches by sawing off that nub that blocks the fuel rail from coming off. Taking off the valve cover to change the fuel injectors is not difficult but a PITA. With the nub off, it took a half hour from start to finish.


http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/DSCN0037.jpg

Here are the injectors I bought.

[KCALB SIRAY]

This is so great. Thanks, Long

[cali yaris]

wow man, you are really coming along... :bow: nicely done!!

[kurokoma-kun]

yay, way to go Noog! :thumbup:

[yaris-me]

Your timing looks good. Do you think 20 deg with boost is going to make it better?

[1NZYaris1]

Do i sense a dyno :burnrubber: run coming up :rolleyes:, now that you are looking real good .
Oh and nice to see an engine bay shot finally, even if it is only the boring half.
:bow::bow::bow:

[LtNoogie]

Glad to see this worked for you. What was your a/f ratio in closed loop while boosting?

Ok, you forced me to make a data collection run.:rolleyes:

Closed loop boosting under light to medium load on surface streets still shows an AFR of 14.7. That's the whole point of closed loop... the ECU is trying to maintain a preset AFR.

What is interesting is that when I get on the freeway and nudge the throttle just barely enough to go to 1-2lb boost, the car goes into open loop and the wideband AFR reads 10.5 or so. You can see from the graph below that I'm not accelerating hard anymore and my throttle position is around 34%. The AFR from the data logger drops to its minimum which matches what the widebande gauge states. I don't know why the car goes into open loop with such a low throttle setting.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp346/LtNoogie/1zzinjectors1lb.jpg

[LtNoogie]

Your timing looks good. Do you think 20 deg with boost is going to make it better?

Any advance in timing should produce more power. Since I can't control timing directly, I'll let the ECU control timing. I'll try to contol fuel and mixture temperature.

Do i sense a dyno :burnrubber: run coming up :rolleyes:, now that you are looking real good .
Oh and nice to see an engine bay shot finally, even if it is only the boring half.
:bow::bow::bow:

The dyno run is definitely planned but not until the water/methanol injection system is installed. I'm just doing alot of research to determine whether I want to buy a kit off the shelf or put one together myself. The kits run around $400 so they're not small change.

I'm hoping that the cooler air/fuel charge will allow the ECU to advance timing some more... hopefully into the 20's. Then it's time to see dyno guy.:biggrin:

[LtNoogie]

I was not rich in closed loop even with the tC injectors. Only during startup and boost above 5lb. I did not even have to be at WOT on the street before it went open loop.

If you look to the left of the dashed lines on the graph, most of that was on the street before I got on the freeway. I had the S/C switch set to low so I was boosting most all of that time. Light boost. The AFR during that stage is normal.

I don't quite understand what forces the car into open loop after warmup.

[marcus]

hey where did you get ur rubber seal on the hood..looking for one.

[cali yaris]

I have those rubber seals for sale. Just haven't put them on the site yet.

[PETERPOOP]

put in my 1zz injectors yesterday. no CEL, runs great. my AFR at WOT during open loop before the 1zz injectors was about 12.4-5 now it's 11.4-5. *I was getting the 12.4-5 without the 1zz injectors because I switched back to my Stock airbox instead of my aFe intake that i had. When I was running with the stock injectors and afe intake, i had a 13.4-5 AFR @ WOT during open loop.

But now I am running the 1zz injectors and switched back to my aFe intake, and now am running the 11.4-5 AFR @ WOT openloop.

[cali yaris]

^ Perfect.

[Morgan]

BTW, If you're going to do this, you can save yourself some future headaches by sawing off that nub that blocks the fuel rail from coming off. Taking off the valve cover to change the fuel injectors is not difficult but a PITA. With the nub off, it took a half hour from start to finish.

While installing mine, I noticed that little nub and saw that it served NO purpose whatsoever!

*edit - I recommend the AEM kit, its got an adjustable setting for when to turn on and where to ramp up to based on boost pressure, dont tap your washer fluid, its only 2.2L (slightly more than 1/2 gallon) just suck it up and put the 1 gallon tank that comes with the kit somewhere in the car. Really though between 87 octane and 93, there is almost no difference when the water/meth is working properly - and methanol in bulk is fairly cheap :)

[LtNoogie]

put in my 1zz injectors yesterday. no CEL, runs great. my AFR at WOT during open loop before the 1zz injectors was about 12.4-5 now it's 11.4-5. *I was getting the 12.4-5 without the 1zz injectors because I switched back to my Stock airbox instead of my aFe intake that i had. When I was running with the stock injectors and afe intake, i had a 13.4-5 AFR @ WOT during open loop.

But now I am running the 1zz injectors and switched back to my aFe intake, and now am running the 11.4-5 AFR @ WOT openloop.

I think the 1zz injectors are perfect for the SC. I'm glad your readings are on the mark.

While installing mine, I noticed that little nub and saw that it served NO purpose whatsoever!

*edit - I recommend the AEM kit, its got an adjustable setting for when to turn on and where to ramp up to based on boost pressure, dont tap your washer fluid, its only 2.2L (slightly more than 1/2 gallon) just suck it up and put the 1 gallon tank that comes with the kit somewhere in the car. Really though between 87 octane and 93, there is almost no difference when the water/meth is working properly - and methanol in bulk is fairly cheap :)

The AEM kit is on my short list of upgrades once I get through this crush of work at the office.

[hare]

sorry just one question,anyone will it bolt on to the first generation ECHO?1NZFE engine?cheers

[LtNoogie]

sorry just one question,anyone will it bolt on to the first generation ECHO?1NZFE engine?cheers

Is your question about the AEM kit? If so, I would not know. The box hax been sitting in my garage for the past few months waiting for my lazy ass to install it.

I don't see why it would not fit. From what I've read by other posters, the biggest problem is finding room to install the water bottle.

[yaris-me]

Is your question about the AEM kit? If so, I would not know. The box hax been sitting in my garage for the past few months waiting for my lazy ass to install it.

I don't see why it would not fit. From what I've read by other posters, the biggest problem is finding room to install the water bottle.

If you like I'll help your lazy ass, I'm off Fridays and Saturdays. Let me know.:biggrin:

[hare]

I am sorry for misunderstand,what I mean is the 1zz injector on NCP13,I have a NCP13 with blitz supercharger but need bigger injector,do you know if it will fit???thanks a lots.

Is your question about the AEM kit? If so, I would not know. The box hax been sitting in my garage for the past few months waiting for my lazy ass to install it.

I don't see why it would not fit. From what I've read by other posters, the biggest problem is finding room to install the water bottle.

[cali yaris]

ask 1NZYARIS1 if the injectors for the 1.3L are the same as the 1.5L. I believe they are, in which case you can "upgrade" to the 1ZZ injectors.

[CASTREX]

I am sorry for misunderstand,what I mean is the 1zz injector on NCP13,I have a NCP13 with blitz supercharger but need bigger injector,do you know if it will fit???thanks a lots.

The 1ZZ injectors will work great on your car.

ask 1NZYARIS1 if the injectors for the 1.3L are the same as the 1.5L. I believe they are, in which case you can "upgrade" to the 1ZZ injectors.


Actually the NCP13 has the same 1.5 1NZ-FE

His is a first gen Yaris TS/RS

[hare]

thanks for confirm,I will try to take off mine one to double confirm before I buy the new injector,hopefully will sort out the problem of my car and go quicker in the track,cheers

The 1ZZ injectors will work great on your car.




Actually the NCP13 has the same 1.5 1NZ-FE

His is a first gen Yaris TS/RS

[Giupo]

the 1zzfe injectors are about 290cc, the oem 1nzfe injectors are about 210cc, I council you the 2zzge injectors these are 350cc and are good still for future upgrade.
the 1zzfe e 2zzge injectors are bolt on for 1nzfe engine.

[cdydjded]

LtNoogie:The next picture is of the blue 1zz injectors (PN 23250-0D050) going into the fuel rail to replace the grey tC injectors. The stock injectors are PN 23250-21040. There's got to be a way find the specs on these two injectors.
I look up injectors from a warehouse I buy from & it shows the 1ZZ injector to be a part of 23250-0D040. According to this web site http://injectorrx.com/densotf.html, the 23250-0D040 is a 255cc/24lb injector. I cant seem to find the specs for the 23250-0D050. Are you sure on the part #?

[hare]

the one I saw in ebay also have a different number at the back as well,I guess is the year of the be made?I think as soon as it's the same colour should be the right one?

LtNoogie:The next picture is of the blue 1zz injectors (PN 23250-0D050) going into the fuel rail to replace the grey tC injectors. The stock injectors are PN 23250-21040. There's got to be a way find the specs on these two injectors.
I look up injectors from a warehouse I buy from & it shows the 1ZZ injector to be a part of 23250-0D040. According to this web site http://injectorrx.com/densotf.html, the 23250-0D040 is a 255cc/24lb injector. I cant seem to find the specs for the 23250-0D050. Are you sure on the part #?

[CrankyOldMan]

Thread necro!

Just want to add my two bits: the green 1ZZ injectors I scrounged from a 2003 Vibe (255cc) are working much better than stock. No "rich condition" codes at idle yet, can't confirm WOT readings until I get my AEM AFR gauge installed but my Scangauge II drops to 12.0 AFR as soon as I enter boost. As far as I can tell, that's all the lower it reads.

Here's verification of the stats from an injection cleaning service (witchhunter.com)
http://witchhunter.com/flowdatapix/d232500D040.jpg

Here's a shot of them snugged under the fuel rail:
http://imageshack.us/a/img577/6264/dscf4624z.jpg

And here's a shot of the amputated valve cover nub:
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/6955/dscf4627a.jpg

[jetblast]

Thanks for digging this thread up. My TC injectors are green also. Gonna have to check the part numbers. Thanks!

[47_MasoN_47]

I got a set of 23250-0D040 on ebay from a Celica. Work great with the Blitz.

[AzianCuz]

So what would help me with this code?

http://s3.postimg.org/cuplsd2xr/Lean_Code.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/cuplsd2xr/)


Will these work as far as the 1zz goes?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Denso-23250-0D050-Multi-Port-Fuel-Injector-Set-4-FJ806-Fits-09-11-Yaris-/171107771659?fits=Year%3A2007%7CModel%3AYaris&hash=item27d6d1650b&vxp=mtr

[AzianCuz]

put in my 1zz injectors yesterday. no CEL, runs great. my AFR at WOT during open loop before the 1zz injectors was about 12.4-5 now it's 11.4-5. *I was getting the 12.4-5 without the 1zz injectors because I switched back to my Stock airbox instead of my aFe intake that i had. When I was running with the stock injectors and afe intake, i had a 13.4-5 AFR @ WOT during open loop.

But now I am running the 1zz injectors and switched back to my aFe intake, and now am running the 11.4-5 AFR @ WOT openloop.

So I went ahead and ordered these, per the post:

http://i.imgur.com/nriYU2O.jpg

Hopefully my lean code goes away? You guys have any other solutions for this lean code P0171?

[AzianCuz]

I've upgraded my injectors to the 1ZZ PN 23250-0D050 and it makes the car idle very good, less shaking and more throttle response. As far as the check engine light lean code goes, I haven't seen it come on yet. Hopefully it doesn't anymore.

[CrankyOldMan]

I get it once in a while, under WOT for extended periods of time. I also have a CAI and a non-standard MAF intake section, so it's possible the ECU is just getting confused. Or was it the MAF out of range? I dunno, I get P0101, P0170 and P0171 pretty regularly. My ScangaugeII clears that right up.

[AzianCuz]

Nice well hopefully I don't get codes anymore, It's annoying. Without the 1ZZ I kept getting P0171 after cleaning the MAF sensor.

[CrankyOldMan]

If your MAF is clean, P0171 means an intake leak. I've had problems with the bolts on the end of the plenum coming loose and causing vacuum leak at idle and pressure leaks under boost. A bit of loc-tite red did the trick. You should also do a vapor check--get a can of carb or brake cleaner and spray a little of it along the intake components. If the engine surges, you have a leak in that spot. If you need new gaskets for the Blitz, I may have a spare set around here somewhere.

[AzianCuz]

If your MAF is clean, P0171 means an intake leak. I've had problems with the bolts on the end of the plenum coming loose and causing vacuum leak at idle and pressure leaks under boost. A bit of loc-tite red did the trick. You should also do a vapor check--get a can of carb or brake cleaner and spray a little of it along the intake components. If the engine surges, you have a leak in that spot. If you need new gaskets for the Blitz, I may have a spare set around here somewhere.

No more CEL after the 1ZZ confirmed. Cranky is it worth it to dyno? Or could I just leave it as it and run it as my daily. I am going leave boost at medium settings and drive it normally.

[KTS]

Glad you got it sorted out.

[yarisugi]

You're starting to go off-topic.
If you read other threads about NST pulleys, your question would most likely have been answered.

[MUSKOKA800]

I'm running 1zz injectors with my Blitz set-up. I do get a 'Too Rich' code in the winter, likely due to choke but have no CEL spring, summer or fall.

[AzianCuz]

I'm running 1zz injectors with my Blitz set-up. I do get a 'Too Rich' code in the winter, likely due to choke but have no CEL spring, summer or fall.

I hope I don't get that...

[tmontague]

not to hijack this thread but where are all of you guys sourcing your blitz S/C's from? It looks appealing to do down the road vs a T/C due t much less work required t install a S/C. I'm curious to the price and what it all comes with

[MUSKOKA800]

Bought mine used from an Edmonton member several years back.

[AzianCuz]

not to hijack this thread but where are all of you guys sourcing your blitz S/C's from? It looks appealing to do down the road vs a T/C due t much less work required t install a S/C. I'm curious to the price and what it all comes with

Definitely worth it in my opinion if you are going to drive the car until the wheels fall off.

Price is around $3000-$4000 now a days, depending on where you get it from. It is sourced straight from Japan, the kit is a Complete Bolt on but I found out from the installation that you need a tighter belt and added the 1zz injectors to make it run efficiently, Since I have other performance parts. But I believe the kit should run fine if you have everything stock, so far I love driving this car now and it picks up pretty quick for a Yaris ha-ha.

I got my S/C from A1-Motorsports and you can negotiate pricing. Took about (3-4 Months) to get...

If you are planning to go (SPEED RACER) then no the kit is not worth it, but if you're trying to get an extra boost and a better driving experience with Fuel Efficiency then yes it's worth it. In the end to each their own. But I love it!

:thumbup:

[KTS]

I am experiencing audible ping/detonation even with 1zz injectors.
My only mods are a K&N filter in the stock air box and a Fidanza flywheel along with an aem water/meth kit.
My afr at wot are around 10.5 and still I hear the audible ping/detonation.
I am using ngk7 plugs and 95 octane fuel.
When I check ing advance using techstream it is reading in the single digits at wot when I hear the ping/detonation.
Can someone suggest what is causing this. I do have a check engine light on related to the egr thingy on the intake side of the head which was removed for the s/c install.
Thanks

[tmontague]

Thanks for the info Azian, looks like i'll be saving up for an S/C down the road...

[MUSKOKA800]

Thanks for the info Azian, looks like i'll be saving up for an S/C down the road...

Watch for a used one. I paid CA$1600.00 for mine and that included complimentary extra aftermarket goodies.
:burnrubber:

[tmontague]

Wow, that's a damn good deal. The msrp in my opinion isn't worth it, but $1600 is great

[AzianCuz]

Thanks for the info Azian, looks like i'll be saving up for an S/C down the road...

Yeah just look around bro, I'm sure you can find really cheap ones, I personally wouldn't get a used kit but if you know your cars and can fix parts yourself by all means. But I am loving the ride and throttle response. Everyday I try to keep myself from stepping on the pedal hard ha-ha!

Drive regular, Drive regular

then VROOOMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!

[AzianCuz]

Good evening my fellow YARIS-ians,

I was wondering if anyone used this injector before? They claimed it flows at 1497cc and I am wondering if that's overkill for us? FYI I upgraded to the 1ZZ and it's working but I just want to know, if it can get me more gains I might switch over.

Anyways see link below and as always appreciate all feedback:

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/fuel-injectors/toyota/?v=3880

[alias06]

Good evening my fellow YARIS-ians,

I was wondering if anyone used this injector before? They claimed it flows at 1497cc and I am wondering if that's overkill for us? FYI I upgraded to the 1ZZ and it's working but I just want to know, if it can get me more gains I might switch over.

Anyways see link below and as always appreciate all feedback:

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/fuel-injectors/toyota/?v=3880

That link shows fuel injectors that are matched for a 1nz meaning that they flow the same for each injector so that each cylinder will get the same amount of fuel, which should then result in a smoother running engine, I doubt that you'd get any kind of beneficial results by just switching over to them. The fuel injectors themselves do not flow 1497cc. It would be overkill for the 1nz, the 1497cc that they are referring to is most likely the engine size of the 1nz, 1.5L or approximately 1500cc (1497cc). Also the 1zz injectors already flow more than the 1nz injectors, reverting back to 1nz injectors would be pointless in your application...

[AzianCuz]

That link shows fuel injectors that are matched for a 1nz meaning that they flow the same for each injector so that each cylinder will get the same amount of fuel, which should then result in a smoother running engine, I doubt that you'd get any kind of beneficial results by just switching over to them. The fuel injectors themselves do not flow 1497cc. It would be overkill for the 1nz, the 1497cc that they are referring to is most likely the engine size of the 1nz, 1.5L or approximately 1500cc (1497cc). Also the 1zz injectors already flow more than the 1nz injectors, reverting back to 1nz injectors would be pointless in your application...

Appreciate the feedback, that's what I figured, I was like isn't that much flow over kill lol. Anyways thanks again and btw the 1ZZ injectors from that site works GREAT!!!

[Gorilla]

Guys are celica 2zzge injectors recommended for sc 1nzfe or 1zz sufficient?

[47_MasoN_47]

I use 1zz injectors in my Blitz'd Yaris. I run a AFe short ram intake and don't have any problems going lean with the 1zz injectors.