Got rust in a stone chip on my hood...

[firebird1999us]

I bought some Langka a few months ago and plan on applying it, but am concerned about how to go about removing the small rust spot...it's maybe the size of a matchstick. I've got some 2000-2500 grit sandpaper at the house -- is this the best way to go about removing the rust?:iono:

[Darb]

You should be able to find a fiberglass pencil at any auto or electronics parts store. I need to do the same thing for a chip on my door. :cry:

[Goose]

Yep, I agree that a fiberglass pencil is the way to go. Using sandpaper will work, but you'll make the area needing attention bigger in the process.

If you can find it, 3M made a paint-pen filled with a rust converting "paint". The "paint" was pretty thin and dried to a glossy black finish. I used this under touch-ups and didn't have any long-term problems with the repairs.

[firebird1999us]

Thanks for the advice on the fiberglass pencil:thumbup:

When you guys fill stone chips do you mix clear with the factory paint or apply it on top?

Does a 2009 yaris even have a clear coat?

:confused:

[DerFlosser]

I don't think any cars use a single stage system anymore. I think it's all basecoat/clearcoat.

[firebird1999us]

I don't think any cars use a single stage system anymore. I think it's all basecoat/clearcoat.

So in other words just apply the base and then add clear, right? Does it matter what type of clear or is clearcoat clearcoat?

[supmet]

I'm pretty sure the yaris doesn't have a clear coat. Just sand with the 2000 after painting and then do a nice wax job.

[Darb]

Yep, I agree that a fiberglass pencil is the way to go. Using sandpaper will work, but you'll make the area needing attention bigger in the process.

If you can find it, 3M made a paint-pen filled with a rust converting "paint". The "paint" was pretty thin and dried to a glossy black finish. I used this under touch-ups and didn't have any long-term problems with the repairs.

Does this 3M "paint" have a rust neutralizer in it?
EDIT:

Seems 3M Rust Avenger has been discontinued... This blog (http://www.toolgirl.com/toolgirl/2007/08/3m-rust-avenger.html) has some other rust converting options listed. I think I'm going to try Loctite Extend.

[Goose]

I believe Rust Avenger did have a neutralizer, although it has been a while.

Langka and other products like it (my dealer sold me a no-name equivalent) work pretty well. Once you get the hang of the Langka, you really won't need to do the separate basecoat/clearcoat process.

Don't overcomplicate the touchup process and you'll get pretty good results.

[Darb]

I believe Rust Avenger did have a neutralizer, although it has been a while.

Langka and other products like it (my dealer sold me a no-name equivalent) work pretty well. Once you get the hang of the Langka, you really won't need to do the separate basecoat/clearcoat process.

Don't overcomplicate the touchup process and you'll get pretty good results.

Yeah, i think I just want to neutralize, paint it up, wet-sand, and wax.

[RS07]

CLR worked for me... After that just retouch with the pen.