Adjustable sway bar endlinks and steel braided brake lines installed

[Brian]

I tightened the endlinks all the way to see the difference it would make. The front end feels a lot more stiff and steering response has increased. I'm getting a little knocking up front so I'm gonna take some of the tension off to see if that helps. I only installed the front brake lines and will do the rear next weekend. I used the Pro-RS brake lines.

[eii]

How do those new brake lines feel? Has anyone posted a DIY for brake lines? Make one brian, I wanna learn how to do it! :)

[Brian]

Brakes feel a lot better. The pedal feels a lot more stiff and I noticed a slight decrease in stopping distance. I don't think there is a DIY yet for the brakes lines. If not then I will post one next weekend when I do the rear. It's actually pretty easy to install.

[eii]

Oh cool, thanks for the input. I just happened to search "brake lines" right when you posted this. It would be great if you could post a DIY even if its easy. I just dont want to mess anything up. The brake system is something I have yet to experiment with yet. ^o^

[Brian]

I found these brake lines a while back and since I haven't seen anyone else post anything about them I though I would try them out.

[Loren]

Brian, lengthening or shortening your end links is not going to affect the handling of the car. Adjustable end links serve two purposes. One is to properly position the ends of the bar for clearance to avoid the clunking that you noted. (usually only required when the ride height of the car has been changed significantly) The other is to remove preload from the bar, with the suspension settled, there should be no tension on the bar. (if there is tension or preload on the bar, the bar will be more effective turning in one direction vs. the other)

Replacing rubber end link bushings with poly or with heim joints like you have will improve steering response, but changing the length of the end links will not.

If you really are feeling more stiffness, it's probably due to the bar hitting the frame or the lower control arm (which would jive with the clunking), not a good thing.

[Brian]

Brian, lengthening or shortening your end links is not going to affect the handling of the car. Adjustable end links serve two purposes. One is to properly position the ends of the bar for clearance to avoid the clunking that you noted. (usually only required when the ride height of the car has been changed significantly) The other is to remove preload from the bar, with the suspension settled, there should be no tension on the bar. (if there is tension or preload on the bar, the bar will be more effective turning in one direction vs. the other)

Replacing rubber end link bushings with poly or with heim joints like you have will improve steering response, but changing the length of the end links will not.

If you really are feeling more stiffness, it's probably due to the bar hitting the frame or the lower control arm (which would jive with the clunking), not a good thing.

Thanks for input Loren. As far as I can tell the noise is only present as lower speeds. About
35 mph or slower. I can't see how it could hit the frame it may be hitting the lower control
arm. Would lengthening the endlinks resolve this?

[Loren]

You'll have to look and see where the interference is and adjust accordingly. The Yaris swaybar is wedged in there pretty tightly, just be sure you have plenty of clearance in both directions. In theory, it shouldn't be possible to hit the lower control arm now that I think about it. The end link is effectively connecting the bar TO the lower control arm (through the ball joint, hub carrier and the strut), the two should move in unison. There's plenty of other stuff it can hit, though.

[Brian]

I'm gonna have to take a closer look. I wish it was easier to see behind wheel. Being lowered
also doesn't help.

[Loren]

Ramps are good. ;)