SS Brake Line + Brake Pad + Rotor Installed~

[AlainMikli]

Installed Today:

Goodridge Stainless Steal Brake Lines (Front & Rear)

CarboTech brake pads + Drilled+Slotted Rotors (fron Garm:biggrin:)

Now, I really feel I'm stopping when I step the brake pedal:w00t:

[CB900F2]

Great looking lines..

How much firmer do you find the peddle? How much did the kit cost?

Thanks

[Brian]

Do your rear lines go all the way to the rear brakes? Look kind of short to me.

[Tamago]

why is the tab on your camber bolt pointing down instead of in?

[vten]

nice work Him ....

did you have to bleed the lines ? how to do it ?? my brakes setup are still waiting to be install ....and so does my exhaust ....

[Loren]

Of course you have to bleed the lines!

Couple thoughts on this brake setup. First, as the OP said, he FEELS like he's stopping when he steps on the brakes. Now, in reality, that's all it is. "Feel". The factory brakes might not give you the ultimate in "feel", but they WILL stop the car as quickly as the TIRES are capable of. Any other brake setup you put on the car isn't going to stop the car any faster with the same tires.

I'm not saying the feel isn't good or important, though. The SS lines reduce the amount of give in the hydraulic system, which can directly be felt in the brake pedal as less movement. The brakes will actuate quicker and respond to your inputs under threshold braking a little better. (IF you have the skills to take advantage of it) And the Carbotech pads will likely grab a little better when cold and a LOT better when hot, which is most of the difference that you can feel. The result of that is more braking with less pedal effort. Not "more braking", really... just "less effort".

The main reason to upgrade brakes from a performance aspect is so they'll handle more heat. This is the biggest thing that the Carbotech pads will do for you. In a track environment where you're making repeated decelerations from high speed, the stock pads will fade pretty quickly. A good pad like the Carbotech will take a lot more heat before it begins to fade. Good stuff... if you go to the track.

BUT... if you go to the track, please don't use those drilled rotors! They're fine for the street, but I can't tell you how many drilled rotors I've seen at race tracks with CRACKS in them. In street driving, we don't normally get our brakes super-hot, and it's not a problem. But, in racing, we DO get the brakes really hot, and those holes in the rotor create weak areas that are an invitation for a crack to begin.

Bottom line: Great setup for street, looks good. Will "feel" better, and will offer a little more resistance to occasional mild heat fade. But, for the track... leave the blingy rotors and get some solid rotors. They'll dissipate heat better and they won't be prone to cracking.

[AlainMikli]

Sure I have bleed the lines!

Thanks Loren, very detail explanation:thumbup:

[AlainMikli]

Great looking lines..

How much firmer do you find the peddle? How much did the kit cost?

Thanks

Um...before I step around 70% of the peddle to stop in some normal speed(local stop sign & traffic light) and takes a long time to stop.
now, I only step 40% to stop my car effectively.

In some highway at 60-70mph, I have to down shift to 3rd gear in order to stop for a traffic light, now I can stop at 4th even 5th gear in the same length & time.

Plus, 2 of my usual passenger say the same thing, before they felt I stop the car very very soft & take a long time to stop it, however they can tell when I step on the peddle right now:rolleyes:

$120 for the goodridge ss brake line:tongue:

nice work Him ....

did you have to bleed the lines ? how to do it ?? my brakes setup are still waiting to be install ....and so does my exhaust ....

thanks Tan:tongue:

what are you going to have on your brake setup?

[staticorex]

Nice. But I'd like to see pics with the rotors on. :thumbup:

[AlainMikli]

Nice. But I'd like to see pics with the rotors on. :thumbup:

Sure, I'll post some after I wash my car today:tongue:

[staticorex]

Woot. :p

[Brian]

I'm still wondering why the goodridge lines only go half way instead of all the way to
the drum and if it makes any difference.

[Tamago]

and if it makes any difference.

nope.

teflon is gonna expand more than steel brake tubing. the shorter the teflon the better.

[supmet]

They'll dissipate heat better and they won't be prone to cracking.

I really don't see how something with more mass and less surface area will dissipate heat better than something with less mass and more surface area. As far as cracking, I don't understand why 911 turbos, skylines, and other 400-500 hp cars can run with drilled rotors stopping their much heavier, much faster cars without cracking. I'm pretty sure these will hold up for a 2 minute auto cross run just fine.

Also, with the stock rotors and pads I had problems with glazing the pads and warping the rotors. So far the R1 drilled and slotted rotors and carbotech pads have lasted longer than stock ever did, and they still look pretty much new.

[Loren]

I really don't see how something with more mass and less surface area will dissipate heat better than something with less mass and more surface area.
The holes in brake rotors have NOTHING to do with surface area. They don't have anything to do with cooling, either. Their original purpose was to give the gasses produced by old-school brake pads (that haven't been used in over 40 years) someplace to go. Now, they're almost entirely there because folks think they look cool. They do add a bit of lightness, that's about their only true benefit.

More mass in a brake rotor allows them to absorb more heat over a longer period of time. Talk to Spec Miata racers about brakes. A lot of those guys run the smaller 1.6 Miata brake rotors because they're lighter and every little bit helps. BUT... they can tell the difference between a NEW full-thickness (and thus full mass) rotor and one that is worn down to its service limit. A new full-thickness rotor (with more mass) will dissipate more heat and resist fade longer than it's thinner cousin.

As far as cracking, I don't understand why 911 turbos, skylines, and other 400-500 hp cars can run with drilled rotors stopping their much heavier, much faster cars without cracking. I'm pretty sure these will hold up for a 2 minute auto cross run just fine.
The reason they HAVE the cross-drilled rotors is purely bling. People like you EXPECT them to have it... just like the ridiculously large and heavy wheels that are popular these days. The reason they work on those cars is equally simple. The engineers who designed the car over-engineered the braking system to prevent heat-related problems. This is a wildly different concept than taking an economy car like a Yaris and simply fitting a set of rotors that someone has taken to a drill-press. (and don't assume that there's much more involved in making these rotors than that... there isn't... most aftermarket cross-drilled rotors begin with a standard blank)

Holding up for a 2-minute autocross run? I never said ANY brake system wouldn't do that! I said "race track". I'm talking about lap after lap of braking from 90-50, from 70-30, from 80-40... over and over. I'm NOT making this up, I've seen cracked drilled brake rotors at race tracks on everything from Porsches and Audis to Mustangs.

Also, with the stock rotors and pads I had problems with glazing the pads and warping the rotors. So far the R1 drilled and slotted rotors and carbotech pads have lasted longer than stock ever did, and they still look pretty much new.
Did you ever try just the Carbotech pads with the stock rotors? Hmmm?

[Brian]

What about just slotted rotors as oppossed to cross drilled and slotted? Any difference there?

[Tamago]

Also, with the stock rotors and pads I had problems with glazing the pads and warping the rotors. So far the R1 drilled and slotted rotors and carbotech pads have lasted longer than stock ever did, and they still look pretty much new.

warping the rotors will relate directly back to poor braking habits.

[Kongo-Otto]

I don't understand why 911 turbos, skylines, and other 400-500 hp cars can run with drilled rotors stopping their much heavier, much faster cars without cracking. I'm pretty sure these will hold up for a 2 minute auto cross run just fine.

Porsche brake discs are not drilled. If i only knew the word in english. The holes are made different, they are part of the production progress but not drilled later.

[Loren]

What about just slotted rotors as oppossed to cross drilled and slotted? Any difference there?
Not as likely to crack, but no real benefit. Again, trying to address the outgassing issue that modern brake pads don't have. They do tend to act as a cheese grater and wear your pads quicker, though.

[Loren]

Porsche brake discs are not drilled. If i only knew the word in english. The holes are made different, they are part of the production progress but not drilled later.
Correct, the holes are cast into the brake rotor at the time of manufacture.

[AlainMikli]

I'm still wondering why the goodridge lines only go half way instead of all the way to
the drum and if it makes any difference.

If you see the metal line after the rear SS line, you'll know why they didn't go all the way. The whole SS line idea is to replace the rubber brake line right. Since we are having drums at the back and will have metal line goes to the wheel cylinder, but not the line(rubber) in front of it, so by replacing the line in front of it will have better fluid pressure to it because it won't expand as much as the factory rubber one when they heat up, it will also take less time for the fluid that goes to the cylinder. It is all about fluid travel/pressure. Correct me somebody if I'm wrong or my English is wrong, haha. :thumbup:

[supmet]

The holes in brake rotors have NOTHING to do with surface area. They don't have anything to do with cooling, either. Their original purpose was to give the gasses produced by old-school brake pads (that haven't been used in over 40 years) someplace to go. Now, they're almost entirely there because folks think they look cool. They do add a bit of lightness, that's about their only true benefit.

I'm not talking about pad to rotor surface area - that is actually decreased. The entire surface area of the rotor is increased, allowing air to touch more hot metal, taking more heat. It also allows cooling of the center of the rotor, where an undrilled rotor only cools the outsides.


More mass in a brake rotor allows them to absorb more heat over a longer period of time.

There you go. More mass = bigger thermal sink. It can absorb heat over a longer period of time, and dissipate that heat over a longer period of time as well, not faster.


Holding up for a 2-minute autocross run? I never said ANY brake system wouldn't do that! I said "race track". I'm talking about lap after lap of braking from 90-50, from 70-30, from 80-40... over and over. I'm NOT making this up, I've seen cracked drilled brake rotors at race tracks on everything from Porsches and Audis to Mustangs.

Well I guess we can both agree that if someone is going to turn their yaris into a full blown race car, they should spend more than 100 dollars on rotors.


Did you ever try just the Carbotech pads with the stock rotors? Hmmm?

Considering I had turned or replaced the stock rotors every 10,000 miles, and the R1 drilled and slotted rotors are roughly 1/2 the price of OEM, I didn't feel like gambling. I'm at 15k on the drilled with no problems.

warping the rotors will relate directly back to poor braking habits.

Or an automatic transmission and driving lots of hills. I constantly find myself choosing between overreving the transmission with limiting, or having no engine braking power and relying on my brakes for long steep hills. I choose a brake job over a new transmission. I'm sure if I lived in florida, your blanket statement would apply though. My corolla's brakes lasted three times as long with worse driving habits and driving in the same area. My current set up, if I had to estimate, looks like it will last somewhere between four and five times as long. So whether or not my braking habits are poor or not, these rotors seem to be holding up better.


edit: oh but the bling is totally why I bought them. All the people that pass within 3 feet and catch just the right angle looking through the little hole in my steelies drool in envy of my drilled goodness.

[Brian]

If you see the metal line after the rear SS line, you'll know why they didn't go all the way. The whole SS line idea is to replace the rubber brake line right. Since we are having drums at the back and will have metal line goes to the wheel cylinder, but not the line(rubber) in front of it, so by replacing the line in front of it will have better fluid pressure to it because it won't expand as much as the factory rubber one when they heat up, it will also take less time for the fluid that goes to the cylinder. It is all about fluid travel/pressure. Correct me somebody if I'm wrong or my English is wrong, haha. :thumbup:

Makes sense. I have rear discs so mine go all the way to the rear calipers. I did have
to order the lines designed for the Vios with rear discs.

[HTM Yaris]

I have to agree with Supmet . D/S rotors do dissipate heat better . More air to more surface area = more cooling . Thats the whole theory behind vented rotors . As far as D/S rotors chewing up pads like cheese graters , false . For your rotors to be grated there would have to be a trailing edge that is raised . ( Go check your kitchen drawer ) . Carbotech pads will decrease the life of your rotors simply b/c they are harder and will grind away more material . Carbotech pads do take longer to heat up which in turn helps the seals in your calipers from melting and also helps to keep your brake fluid from boiling as quickly .

Cracks form from a combination of circumstances . The main one being from a manufacturing defect . When you cast anything , it is virtually impossible to obtain an even thickness throughout . Combine this defect with some heat and poor braking habits and viola ...a crack will raise its ugly head . If there is one crack ( from hole to hole ) that rotor is still usable but you would be wise to monitor for more cracks . I've seen many people do this ( On track ) . If a crack extends from hole to hole to hole , then you need to trash that rotor . If a crack extends from the outer hole to the outer edge then you will get a cheese grater effect from the warpage that will follow .

Speaking about on track , I have used the R-1 rotors on track ( against R-1's advice) and they work pretty darn good . The last time I went to Roebling Road . We did 100 + consecutive laps . The Yaris did come in the pits for driver changes but the car never shut off . We experienced no brake problems . Actually the Pros who drove my car said the brakes were surprisingly good . ( I'll get to my secret in a minute ) . We tried our darndest to find a flaw anywhere in the car . The only one we found was lack of power . :smile: But the R-1's did glaze up in the mountains . Which is why I bought new rotors from brake warehouse . The R-1's are still good but just wanted to try something else .

My brake setup is as follows : Toyota pads , Brake Warehouse rotors , SS lines and ATE Blue fluid . Check the pics below . On the car are the BW rotors . On the ground are the R-1 rotors . Check out the differences . The R-1's have bigger holes and slightly longer slots . The R-1's also have the hole closer to the outer edge . The BW rotors have 2 rows of holes between the slots . The BW have a powder coated hub/hat . The R-1's were zinc plated in its entirety . Both have pointed end slots .

The things I don't like about the R-1's are that they took longer to bed in b/c on the zinc plating and they glazed in the mountains ( after turning a pretty shade of blue ) . With a good bit of fade

What I like about the BW rotors is that there are more holes , albeit smaller than the R-1's , and the holes are not so close to the outer edge . I also like the powder coating on the hub/hat area . The rust doesn't "bleed" through like they do on the R-1's . I've gotten these rotors a nice crimson color in the mountains with no adverse affects :eek: Just a tiny bit of fade .

Now for my trick . Notice the R-1s . The one on the right is how everybody else installs their rotors . The holes are slanted towards the rear of the car . The one on the left are slanted towards the front of the car . My theory is that with the holes slanted forward it allows the outer edge to cool first after leaving the pad area thereby producing more consistent results after repeated use . The pros who have driven my car all say the can't believe how consistent my brakes are especially with stock pads . Then I point out my rotor orientation and they go "Hmm interesting" .

6 hours have elapsed since I started this reply to the time I posted . ( GF's Mini broke and I had to go and fix it , Tranny and flat tire ) So I probably missed a few replies .

[Loren]

I'm not going to argue with you guys, but I'll tell you that I take most of my information from reliable sources. I consider a brake system engineer who also has experience building race cars and racing is pretty high on my list of reliable sources for brake info.

Here's what James Walker (http://www.teamscr.com/about-james-walker-jr/about-james-walker-jr.html) (I'm pretty sure he knows more about brakes than any of the rest of us do) has to say about brake rotors:
http://www.teamscr.com/motorsports/tech-articles/46-those-poor-rotors.html

[cali yaris]

HTM, that is how I have my front rotors oriented as well. :thumbsup:

[AlainMikli]

Woot. :p

forgot to upload the pic:tongue:

[1NZYaris1]

Hmmmm :drool: , me likey a lot :laugh:

[staticorex]

Nice. :)

[eii]

Did you reuse your stock shims on your break pads?

[AlainMikli]

Did you reuse your stock shims on your break pads?

Yes I did, perfect fitment on the Carbotech.

[eii]

Ok cool, thanks for the info. I just bought some carbotechs from garm as well, but I'm too sick to work on my car right now :'(

[HTM Yaris]

Hey Loren , no harm , no foul . I love a civilized discussion . On that note , let me point out some of the fallacies in Mr. Walker's thinking .

Mr Walker states that holes were developed to eliminate gassing . I can buy that . Mr Walker fails to mention that holes evacuate dust quicker ( which is also the reason for the slot on most brake pads ,which he fails to mention ) , which in turn increases coefficient of friction . Mr Walker goes on to mention that if weight is removed from the rotor that heat can increase a "little" , but he fails to mention how long that "little" bit of heat is sustained . He goes on to mention the "cheese grater" effect . This is another half truth . When a crack develops there is only a 50% chance that a grater effect will occur . If the leading edge of the crack is raised , then it effectively becomes a slot . As I stated previously if you have a large crack or a crack to the outer edge , I highly recommend a rotor replacement because your structural integrity is compromised . Mr Walker also didn't take into account that Nascar and F1 don't allow holes . Not to mention that Nascar and F1 use carbon rotors . He also doesn't mention the inconsistencies of the casting process as opposed to the machining process that produce exact tolerances , which Nascar and F1 use .

I laughed my ass off when I read the "Too Cool" segment . Everybody knows that when you freeze something the molecules will draw closer together and then when you heat it up it will revert back to its previous state . This is easily proven with water . Think ice cubes . Sometimes water expands because air gets trapped . I feel certain that the people at the testing facility laughed all the way to the bank .
In my opinion Mr Walker needs to refine his research methods and offer more conclusive objective data . But on the other hand , I don't offer any data either . Just simple logic and my own personal experiences . Which by the way are not for profit .
I could go on and on but my GF wants to apply some friction principles of our own . :wink:

[supmet]

I'm not going to argue with you guys, but I'll tell you that I take most of my information from reliable sources. I consider a brake system engineer who also has experience building race cars and racing is pretty high on my list of reliable sources for brake info.

Here's what James Walker (http://www.teamscr.com/about-james-walker-jr/about-james-walker-jr.html) (I'm pretty sure he knows more about brakes than any of the rest of us do) has to say about brake rotors:
http://www.teamscr.com/motorsports/tech-articles/46-those-poor-rotors.html


In addition, since 2001 he has served as a brake control system consultant for StopTech,



AeroRotors are available either drilled or slotted.

Drilling or slotting helps wipe away the debris that forms between the pad and the disc, adds more bite, and can help the rear brakes to match the aesthetics of a front big brake kit.

I guess the company he is a consultant for doesn't buy into his hate of drilling rotors.



Oh and his ONLY argument(not just stating random facts he holds as truths) was that nascar and f1 cars don't use drilled brakes. Because, you know, the average car driver has a couple grand to spend on carbon fiber brakes, and replace them everytime they drive the car. Also, an engineer should realize the orders of magnitude of difference in the forces braking from 220 and braking from 120. But lets compare apples to oranges.(and do it multiple times in a one page article).

I passed a dinan bmw with slotted rotors and a carrera s with drilled going in to the store today. The ferrari 430 challenge came with drilled rotors one year. I'm gonna take the word of ferrari, dinan, and porsche over this random guy.

...(runs off to buy a fire suit and helmet, because if NASCAR does it, well by golly I'm gonna do it)

[Loren]

What do you guys not understand about "I'm not going to argue with you?"

My most compelling reason for "hating" cross-drilled rotors is simply having seen with my own two eyes far too many of them CRACKED at track events. Given the choice between driving on a race track with a rotor that's likely to crack and one that isn't, I'm going to choose the one that isn't. I'm funny that way.

Y'all can continue arguing amongst yourselves.

[supmet]

What do you guys not understand about "I'm not going to argue with you?"

My most compelling reason for "hating" cross-drilled rotors is simply having seen with my own two eyes far too many of them CRACKED at track events. Given the choice between driving on a race track with a rotor that's likely to crack and one that isn't, I'm going to choose the one that isn't. I'm funny that way.

Y'all can continue arguing amongst yourselves.

I'm still debating/arguing, because I respect your opinion, and have drilled rotors. I come off snide, but that's just to make it fun :tongue: For the race track, you are probably right. But for street or auto-x use, I really do think they dump heat faster(leading to better brake performance and longer lasting pads and rotors), clear dust, are slightly lighter, and yes - they look better. Plus you can get a pair for $110 from garm, or one stock rotor for $96 from the dealer. I think they are the best bang for the buck rotors for performance and longevity. As far as cracking, I'll never put as much heat in to them as fast as I did when I bed my pads again. If they took that they should be good.

I would be interested in some hard testing of the same rotor, same car, drilled and not, infrared thermometer mounted in the wheel well. Surely with some companies making claims of 200 degrees in difference there would be some, but I'm finding it extremely hard to find.

[dallas]

I have to agree with Loren on this one, if you slot and cross drill a basically stock rotor you reduce the mass of the rotor, which in-turn gives you less of a heat sink.
There is no off gassing of new compound pads, the slots may help with brake dust evacuation, but thats about it. When you see a slotted and drilled pad on an exotic sports car, they have made sure to also have enough rotor mass to allow a big enough heat sink for the type of driving being encountered. I would focus on new brake fluid, A Racing specific or Dot 5.1 for street applications and get good pads and stainless lines.
Cheers.

I'm not going to argue with you guys, but I'll tell you that I take most of my information from reliable sources. I consider a brake system engineer who also has experience building race cars and racing is pretty high on my list of reliable sources for brake info.

Here's what James Walker (http://www.teamscr.com/about-james-walker-jr/about-james-walker-jr.html) (I'm pretty sure he knows more about brakes than any of the rest of us do) has to say about brake rotors:
http://www.teamscr.com/motorsports/tech-articles/46-those-poor-rotors.html

[silver_echo]

i am curious for those of you that have the slotted rotors or know more than i do about them... which is better? oriented to have the slots come out from under the pad during forward motion from in to out or from out to in? why? just wanted to ask because i am planning new brakes for my car this summer, and was wondering which way i should index them...

[arcticvitz]

I have to agree with Supmet . D/S rotors do dissipate heat better . More air to more surface area = more cooling . Thats the whole theory behind vented rotors . As far as D/S rotors chewing up pads like cheese graters , false . For your rotors to be grated there would have to be a trailing edge that is raised . ( Go check your kitchen drawer ) . Carbotech pads will decrease the life of your rotors simply b/c they are harder and will grind away more material . Carbotech pads do take longer to heat up which in turn helps the seals in your calipers from melting and also helps to keep your brake fluid from boiling as quickly .

Cracks form from a combination of circumstances . The main one being from a manufacturing defect . When you cast anything , it is virtually impossible to obtain an even thickness throughout . Combine this defect with some heat and poor braking habits and viola ...a crack will raise its ugly head . If there is one crack ( from hole to hole ) that rotor is still usable but you would be wise to monitor for more cracks . I've seen many people do this ( On track ) . If a crack extends from hole to hole to hole , then you need to trash that rotor . If a crack extends from the outer hole to the outer edge then you will get a cheese grater effect from the warpage that will follow .

Speaking about on track , I have used the R-1 rotors on track ( against R-1's advice) and they work pretty darn good . The last time I went to Roebling Road . We did 100 + consecutive laps . The Yaris did come in the pits for driver changes but the car never shut off . We experienced no brake problems . Actually the Pros who drove my car said the brakes were surprisingly good . ( I'll get to my secret in a minute ) . We tried our darndest to find a flaw anywhere in the car . The only one we found was lack of power . :smile: But the R-1's did glaze up in the mountains . Which is why I bought new rotors from brake warehouse . The R-1's are still good but just wanted to try something else .

My brake setup is as follows : Toyota pads , Brake Warehouse rotors , SS lines and ATE Blue fluid . Check the pics below . On the car are the BW rotors . On the ground are the R-1 rotors . Check out the differences . The R-1's have bigger holes and slightly longer slots . The R-1's also have the hole closer to the outer edge . The BW rotors have 2 rows of holes between the slots . The BW have a powder coated hub/hat . The R-1's were zinc plated in its entirety . Both have pointed end slots .

The things I don't like about the R-1's are that they took longer to bed in b/c on the zinc plating and they glazed in the mountains ( after turning a pretty shade of blue ) . With a good bit of fade

What I like about the BW rotors is that there are more holes , albeit smaller than the R-1's , and the holes are not so close to the outer edge . I also like the powder coating on the hub/hat area . The rust doesn't "bleed" through like they do on the R-1's . I've gotten these rotors a nice crimson color in the mountains with no adverse affects :eek: Just a tiny bit of fade .

Now for my trick . Notice the R-1s . The one on the right is how everybody else installs their rotors . The holes are slanted towards the rear of the car . The one on the left are slanted towards the front of the car . My theory is that with the holes slanted forward it allows the outer edge to cool first after leaving the pad area thereby producing more consistent results after repeated use . The pros who have driven my car all say the can't believe how consistent my brakes are especially with stock pads . Then I point out my rotor orientation and they go "Hmm interesting" .

6 hours have elapsed since I started this reply to the time I posted . ( GF's Mini broke and I had to go and fix it , Tranny and flat tire ) So I probably missed a few replies .

Nice write up! :headbang: Seems like the people that track their cars have no problems while others choose to speak from what they've "heard".

[CB900F2]

AlainMikli.. Hows your long term results of the SS lines been like?... I am in the works of pickup a set myself..

thanks for your feedback..

[cali yaris]

People that know better than me say that it doesn't matter at all which way the slots are oriented. The slots are to keep the pad surface clean and "cut", not to help cool the rotor.

[jaytown]

Does any one know who has the Goodridge brakelines in stock?

[ozmdd]

Not going to get into the drill/not drilled debate, but I can tell you from a physics standpoint, the drilled rotors will have less braking surface area, and less mass to absorb heat. The holes will not cool the inner rotor any faster, as the front rotors are already vented at the perimeter.
The rotor will have less rotational mass if it is drilled/slotted.

[cali yaris]

jaytown, I have Agency-Power lines in stock.

[kngrsll]

supposedly the slots help vent trapped gasses as well...

im curious to know what these do... iknow they work, and work very well. hell, it may just be a pure marketing thing. but if this isnt car porn, i dunno what is:

http://www.gtrblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/alcon-gtr-100.jpg

[CB900F2]

Hi Cali...

I am wanting to pickup a set of SS lines for my Yaris also.. Not sure if this is a fair question, but how does Agency-Power lines compair to Goodridge??

I do not know who agency is and their back ground in the brakeline business..

thanks Cali..


jaytown, I have Agency-Power lines in stock.