DIY: A/C Insulation [Archive] - Toyota Yaris Forums

texkid

06-26-2009, 07:44 PM

First off, I really should THANK Echo-hrs for the idea. If he never mentioned in the first place, I probably would've never know to do this to my car. I went to my mechanic for some help. After taking a look at my car, he definitely agreed that the Low Pressure line needed to be insulated.

I purchased a meat thermometer to get a reading on how its running BEFORE I started doing the insulation. Below is the reading with the A/C set to (4) on Recirculating, with all vents open; driving from work to home (roughly 20 minutes) ABOUT 50-DEGREES
http://texanurse.com/images/Yaris/INSULATION/Meat_Thermometer_1.jpg

Here is temp, with the car in the drive-way and windows half open. Its 120-freaking-degrees!
http://texanurse.com/images/Yaris/INSULATION/Meat_Thermometer_2.jpg

AND FINALLY, here is the temp AFTER the insulation driving for 15 minutes. A DROP OF ALMOST 10-DEGREES!
http://texanurse.com/images/Yaris/INSULATION/Meat_Thermometer_3.jpg

So, without further delay, on with the DIY.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for what happens to your car. Do this at your own risk.

Tools:
- A pack of foam pipe covers (.75 cents at Wallmart)
- A pack of 6 inch wire ties or whatever you call them
As far as the zip ties are concerned, DO NOT tie them too tight like I did. Just enough tension to keep them in place is all that is needed.
- A meat thermometer
- A couple bottles of water
- SHADE!

Instructions:

Lets start with what the hell we are insulating. It is the low pressure line going from the firewall to the rubber hose before it hits the condensor. Its marked with a pink line at the firewall and has a pressure valved labeled "L". When run the A/C, this line should be the only one that is COLD to the touch. The smaller line that sits below it should be open to air as it is taking hot air out of the cabin and back to the condenser.
http://texanurse.com/images/Yaris/INSULATION/AC-1.jpg

http://texanurse.com/images/Yaris/INSULATION/AC-2.jpg

http://texanurse.com/images/Yaris/INSULATION/AC-3.jpg

next: get your foam pipe insulation and check to see if it fits. If its too loose, you can trim off a bit. But just a BIT!

-Start at the firewall end since it is most difficult and cramped part of the job. At this point, it is recommended that the engine is cool to touch. I singed a couple of arm hair before I realized that. LOL!
http://texanurse.com/images/Yaris/INSULATION/AC-5.jpg

-Run it as much as you can, once you hit that big, "drum" looking thing, cut and start tying it down. As far as that "drum" looking thing, you're just going have to get creative and find a way to cover it. But it does make a difference when you do.
As far as the zip ties are concerned, DO NOT tie them too tight like I did. Just enough tension to keep them in place is all that is needed.
http://texanurse.com/images/Yaris/INSULATION/AC-8.jpg

-For the other side, grab a piece and run it from the front side and thread it under the engine mount. Tie that down very well and make sure nothing can hit the belt or the alternator.
http://texanurse.com/images/Yaris/INSULATION/AC-6.jpg

http://texanurse.com/images/Yaris/INSULATION/AC-7.jpg

-For the rest of the low pressure line, just keep tying it down until you hit the rubber hose. I shouldn't have to tell you this, but cut holes where needed such as the low pressure valve and that do-hicky you see below.
http://texanurse.com/images/Yaris/INSULATION/AC-9.jpg

-AND YOU'RE DONE! Cut off the excess straps so they won't get tangled into anything.

texkid

06-26-2009, 07:51 PM

Cool...Glad that it worked!...

Cheers

Thank-you good friend.

One thing I did notice is that the air seems to get cold faster at startup than before and it actually feels colder than before. Like my old Escort.

BailOut

06-26-2009, 08:05 PM

That's a nice write-up but wouldn't it be easier to use a foam and foil wrap tape than zip tying ever few centimeters?

This is what I use on my hot water pipes in our garage, and on the above-ground segment of our sprinkler system:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100174724&N=10000003+90063+531155

cali yaris

06-26-2009, 08:08 PM

that is an A+ DIY - thanks for posting it. Can I copy it to my e-magzine? I think even other car owners could figure out how to do the same thing.

Sodium Duck

06-26-2009, 08:17 PM

Very good idea. Will be doing this on the weekend!

texkid

06-26-2009, 08:29 PM

texkid, you kinda went apecrazy with the zip ties, you want the wrap to be resting on the pipe and not be squeezed you are taking out the air in the foam and therefore the insulator.Air is the best insulation. ideally you want it to be tight enough to not move but loose enough so there is air in the foam. ill post my pics when i get home

You are right. I need to redo it. I'll change the DIY to reflect that.

That's a nice write-up but wouldn't it be easier to use a foam and foil wrap tape than zip tying ever few centimeters?

I was thinking that. But my biggest fear was that this whole idea wouldn't work in the first place. And so I figured I shouldn't invest too much into it. The zip-ties were a good a idea at the time since if I were to screw up or it didn't work, it would have been easy to just cut the ties off.

that is an A+ DIY - thanks for posting it. Can I copy it to my e-magzine? I think even other car owners could figure out how to do the same thing.
Sure, I don't see any harm in it.

toast

06-26-2009, 09:16 PM

:w00t: This is a great idea. I had forgotten that I had done the same thing to my old ranger many years back and it worked great. That beast was 14 years old when I got rid of it and the a/c was the only thing that still worked properly on it. +1 on the excessive zip ties though. All that crushing will reduce the insulation ability some and it's just more work than needed.

AlexNet0

06-26-2009, 09:33 PM

that is a great idea, I always think about how the AC should be colder during the hotter days here in the summer.

texkid

06-26-2009, 09:37 PM

i can now verify this as I did the same thing today during my break. It works very well and the air coming from the vents is definitely colder than before, also the interior cools down faster, now you can set your dial to 2 and be content as it will keep the same temperature.

We could also insulate the other pipe for even quicker cooldown but that is to be experimented further.

It would interesting see what temperature readings you're getting since you insulated the pipe past the rubber hose. If it is cooler than my reading then more foam insulators is in order! :biggrin:

If you want, you can replace my "AFTER" images with yours since I put on the zip-ties too tight. Just a thought.

auxmike

06-26-2009, 10:40 PM

Is this a safe practice?
If so, why did'nt Toyota do it in the first place?
Wonder if that foam could MELT with the heat under that hood.....:confused:

YarisSedan

06-26-2009, 11:06 PM

Lot of things the vehicle should have come with from the factory but they only install what is bare minimum required to cut production costs. Like for example all yaris should have a swaybar from the factory but it wasnt cost effective for a basic commuter car

texkid

06-26-2009, 11:08 PM

Is this a safe practice?
If so, why did'nt Toyota do it in the first place?
Wonder if that foam could MELT with the heat under that hood.....:confused:

-Is it safe? I dunno. I am assuming as long as it doesn't come in contact with the belt or other moving parts, it'll be ok.

-Why Toyota didn't do this? Heck if I know. Costs? Research? Maybe they thought 50-degrees was enough? One thing I do know is that "most" of the domestic cars I've seen have the rubber hoses. I think maybe aluminum pipes last longer than rubber hoses?

-Melting foam? Probably not. That PCV line is foam as well and in some places comes in closer contact to the heat of the engine.

YarisSedan

06-26-2009, 11:09 PM

Hmm i think i may do this mod but making it more clean and factory looking using bailouts idea.

CTScott

06-26-2009, 11:15 PM

Is this a safe practice?
If so, why did'nt Toyota do it in the first place?
Wonder if that foam could MELT with the heat under that hood.....:confused:

I was thinking the same thing. There are high temp and ultra high temp pipe insulations, but they are pricey.

Polyethylene pipe insulation (which is the kind you get at home improvement centers) is only rated to 180F or 200F.

Silicone pipe insulation is rated for 500F, mineral wool can handle 800F, Flexible ceramic at 1500F, etc. McMaster-Carr has a wide selection of industrial pipe insulation.

The other issue besides temp rating is fire rating (ASTM E84 rating). We ran into an issue UL testing a battery pack because of insufficient rating on the closed cell foam we were using the keep the batteries from banging around.

auxmike

06-26-2009, 11:16 PM

Wonder if it affects the warrentee too.....:frown:

n00b

06-26-2009, 11:44 PM

Ok, I guess I should finally post.

Lets start with what the hell we are insulating. It is the low pressure line going from the firewall to the rubber hose before it hits the condensor. Its marked with a pink line at the firewall and has a pressure valved labeled "L". When run the A/C, this line should be the only one that is COLD to the touch. The smaller line that sits below it should be open to air as it is taking hot air out of the cabin and back to the condenser.

That is wrong.

The LOW pressure line is for refrigerant going to the COMPRESSOR. The HIGH pressure line is for refrigerant going to the EVAPORATOR.

Both lines should be insulated. Insulate the low pressure side to keep the refrigerant a bit cooler going into the compressor and insulate the high pressure side to prevent the refrigerant from absorbing heat from the engine bay.

Your pipe insulation may melt (I don't know how hot this line gets) if you insulate the line going from the COMPRESSOR to the CONDENSER

low > compressor > condenser > high > evaporator > repeat

texkid

06-26-2009, 11:49 PM

I was thinking the same thing. There are high temp and ultra high temp pipe insulations, but they are pricey.

Polyethylene pipe insulation (which is the kind you get at home improvement centers) is only rated to 180F or 200F.

Silicone pipe insulation is rated for 500F, mineral wool can handle 800F, Flexible ceramic at 1500F, etc. McMaster-Carr has a wide selection of industrial pipe insulation.

The other issue besides temp rating is fire rating (ASTM E84 rating). We ran into an issue UL testing a battery pack because of insufficient rating on the closed cell foam we were using the keep the batteries from banging around.

Hmmm....

At what temperature does the engine block reach when its running at normal range?

On the packaging, that the foam covers came in, it states that it is safe for temperatures as high as 212*F.

If I need better insulation, that's fine with me. I am willing to make a compromise and pay a little more so long as I am guaranteed that it'll keep the A/C cold.

texkid

06-26-2009, 11:51 PM

Ok, I guess I should finally post.

That is wrong.

The LOW pressure line is for refrigerant going to the COMPRESSOR. The HIGH pressure line is for refrigerant going to the EVAPORATOR.

Both lines should be insulated. Insulate the low pressure side to keep the refrigerant a bit cooler going into the compressor and insulate the high pressure side to prevent the refrigerant from absorbing heat from the engine bay.

Your pipe insulation may melt (I don't know how hot this line gets) if you insulate the line going from the COMPRESSOR to the CONDENSER

low > compressor > condenser > high > evaporator > repeat

Ah crap! I knew I had the idea backwards. But....I am still getting colder air.

Side Note: It's a PIA to reach that high pressure line. If I can get some kind of reassurance that it'll make a significant difference, then by golly I'll grease up my body to squeeze in there if I have to.

texkid

06-27-2009, 12:38 AM

auxmike

06-27-2009, 01:33 AM

Those foams you installed are in the vicinity of the very hot exhaust manifold.
212F is what water boils at. It's not really that hot when thinking in terms of an engine.
I'll pass on this one myself....:cool:

YarisSedan

06-27-2009, 02:24 AM

A/C temp is directly affected by outside ambient temperature. So from different times of the day and different days you are going to get different results.

I get cars in my shop on extremly hot days saying thier ac is not cooling as efficently as before. But yet thier a/c is fully charged. So charging wont make a difference.

eTiMaGo

06-27-2009, 07:10 AM

what an interesting idea, can certainly be useful here in our hot hot tropical days, the AC can really struggle sometimes...

I have a friend who works at an airconditioner repair workshop, maybe he can get his hands on the high-temp stuff :smile:

Sodium Duck

06-27-2009, 08:11 AM

I just sent off some e-mails to companies about their mineral wool pipe insulation for pricing. I'm having trouble finding this stuff.

Sodium Duck

06-27-2009, 08:12 AM

NiNjA pOsT!

CTScott

06-27-2009, 08:20 AM

I just sent off some e-mails to companies about their mineral wool pipe insulation for pricing. I'm having trouble finding this stuff.

Check out McMaster Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#pipe-insulation/=2hwsny

Sodium Duck

06-27-2009, 08:29 AM

Thanks Scott!

How long is this pipe by the way?

Hmm, that site has a 2'x4' sheet for 6 bucks, not bad.

mrbond

06-27-2009, 11:16 AM

Fantastic idea! I did this yesterday after I got home, except I used fewer zip ties and employed the use of aluminum tape. With the aluminum tape, the air temperature recorded on the meat thermometer was 37 degrees! Best cheap thing I've done to my car hands down.

Sodium Duck

06-27-2009, 11:44 AM

Did you do both lines?

mrbond

06-27-2009, 12:04 PM

You mean the high pressure and low pressure? No, just the low pressure going into the cabin. My hands aren't small enough to work with the high pressure lines.

supmet

06-27-2009, 04:22 PM

rubber is the best insulator

Air is the best insulation.

The funny thing is, neither is "the best" insulator, or particularly good in the grand scheme of things.

texkid

06-27-2009, 07:13 PM

here is what i did:

i covered the rear return line with high temp aluminium tape. Temp resistance up to 180C

Where did you find the aluminum tape? Was it easy to apply?

mrbond

06-27-2009, 07:33 PM

You can also find the aluminum tape at Menard's and Home Depot in the home ventilation section.

texkid

06-27-2009, 07:45 PM

the local Rona in the vents and ac department. its like regular tape but with aluminium in it. very easy to apply. but gets pretty hot to the touch after you drive for a while

How's the air running? Same as with other setup? Or cooler?

texkid

06-27-2009, 08:04 PM

haven't really got a chance to check, i got the aluminum foil mostly to protect the insulation from melting

Ah. I see. So far, mine hasn't melted. In fact, after doing some errands, I checked the insulation and it wasn't hot to the touch. But I did burn my left forearm from grazing the engine surface.......again.

EasyDriver

06-27-2009, 08:51 PM

I got half of this diy project done this PM and I believe that it helped already! At the only contact between the high and low pressure lines I slide a piece of thin aluminum pie tin. After a short drive today high pressure line was not even warm...but maybe I didn't drive long enough.

Great pics and a really good project!!!!! Thanks......

mrbond

06-27-2009, 09:07 PM

texkid

06-28-2009, 06:12 PM

There's another section of the low pressure line pretty far down in the engine bay - right where the rubber hose ends and just before the a/c compressor. About an hour ago I spent about 20 minutes wrapping that in the foam insulator and the aluminum tape, then I drove the car for a while. The air temp dropped another degree. Just an fyi.

Sweet!

But keep an eye on it. Supposedly there might be a greater chance that section of the line could melt the insulation. If it doesn't over time then maybe I'll include in the DIY. I am still periodically checking my lines for excess heat or signs of damage/melting. Good thing I have a fire extinguisher in the car ready for anything.

texkid

06-28-2009, 06:49 PM

...for now everything is a ok , except my nuts are frozen:biggrin:

For that you should use Glad ziplock bags to prevent freezer burn to your meat. I'll write a DIY for that as well. :biggrin: :biggrin:

1NZYaris1

06-28-2009, 06:51 PM

thats what i do for now , i check each time i arrive home just to be on the safe side. for now everything is a ok , except my nuts are frozen:biggrin:

:laughabove: too much infomation , :redface: your nut's are not part of this thread ,
well they wheren't until now anyway :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh::barf:

texkid

06-28-2009, 07:10 PM

i shall provide pictures.... i shaved no worries :biggrin:

:laughabove: ROTFLMAO!

darthbauer

06-28-2009, 07:16 PM

This looks like something I should do but as of right now, I have no shade and its like over 100 here in Orange.

firebob

06-28-2009, 07:44 PM

I keep looking at this and thinking about the way I covered my oil lines on my old truck. I split some “heater hose” slid it over the lines and use cheap electrical tape to cover it.

I have not thought about doing this and have not looked at the AC lines to see if this would work. But I do think it would look cleaner than what has been picked and what has been talked about.

darthbauer

06-28-2009, 07:50 PM

do what shave your balls or insulate the ac lines?? j/k

you can do it when the car is cold , it really takes about 10 minutes

The engine is cold as I have not gone anywhere in the last 24 hours in it, Its just to damn hot outside.

texkid

06-28-2009, 07:57 PM

But I do think it would look cleaner than what has been picked and what has been talked about.

I do agree that mine looks like it was "ghetto-rigged" but it is just a trial run. I am sure/hopeful that once it becomes established as a safe mod with reliable results that soon we'll start seeing some sophisticated modifications.

And as I said before, I am happy to post other user's pictures to replace mine. So long as they're clear images to reveal detail. Sorry, I don't like grainy, cell phone pics.
The engine is cold as I have not gone anywhere in the last 24 hours in it, Its just to damn hot outside.

Yes, stay out of the sun. In the time I did this in the sun, my neck ended up with a little sunburn and I was dripping sweat on the engine.

What about those self-serve car washes where you have put quarters in and manually wash the car? Aren't those covered. I am sure if you go to one and do a quick install and maybe just rinse the car that they won't say anything.....maybe. Or one of those business parking garages?

WD-40

06-28-2009, 08:36 PM

Thanks for the idea of aluminum foil tape .. I had the foam on last year for a trip to California .. made a huge dif .. then when I got home I removed it due to melting near the heat shield .. I just redid the lines but added the foil tape after reading this.

yarisugi

06-28-2009, 11:02 PM

Since the tape is a little flimsy and a bit hard to wrap around the pipe, has anyone wrapped the foam around first and then wrap the tape around the foam? I was thinking this might be better...?

texkid

06-28-2009, 11:24 PM

Since the tape is a little flimsy and a bit hard to wrap around the pipe, has anyone wrapped the foam around first and then wrap the tape around the foam? I was thinking this might be better...?

I think that was the original idea? :iono:

mrbond

06-29-2009, 12:30 AM

Yeah, that's actually exactly what I did: wrapped the foam around the a/c lines, zip tied them down, and then completely covered all the foam with the aluminum tape. At least this way you don't have to worry about the foam degrading faster than need be.

yarisugi

06-29-2009, 02:53 AM

I just went to Home Depot - that aluminum tape is pretty expensive eh?!!
It was rated up to 260 degrees F. Is there any that's higher? 260 doesn't seem high enough.

devinlamothe

06-29-2009, 12:55 PM

its rated for direct contact , it should be fine for what we use them. its about 5$ here.

What ... I just went to Home Depot and the cheapest I found was $15. :frown:

mrbond

06-29-2009, 01:16 PM

$15? Yeah, that sounds right for the foam aluminum wrapping. I got my huge roll of just the aluminum for $6.10 with tax.

hatchbackkid82

06-29-2009, 01:24 PM

I'm gonna have to try this

Sandwash

06-29-2009, 02:19 PM

Yaris Hilton

06-29-2009, 07:00 PM

Really!

texkid

06-30-2009, 01:33 PM

With such an obvious improvement to effectiveness (and efficiency) of AC system you would think Toyota would develop a standardized 'fix,' provide a service bulletin to their dealerships, thus allowing them to bill their customary 'arm and leg' charges for those customers willing and able to go that route.

I agree.

I still want to assume that they probably NOT do this in order to save on building costs. Because if you look at the whole car itself, there isn't another part that is insulated. So I imagine that they probably thought "why purchase insulating foam (or other material) for one stretch of pipe" and just left it at that?

Pitt Yaris

07-01-2009, 02:14 AM

I'd like to do this. My a/c at a level 4 is no cooler than a friend's (old buick) a/c at a level 2.

Yaris Hilton

07-01-2009, 08:44 AM

Well now, those old Buick ACs could be used to freeze a hockey rink. Probably draw off half the power the Yaris engine's capable of producing, too.

andaconda

07-03-2009, 06:19 PM

I'm gonna have to try this

That's what I said today!
So I took photos along the way.

andaconda

07-03-2009, 06:21 PM

ran out of aluminum tape - will finish the job after the holiday...

yarisugi

07-03-2009, 06:23 PM

Did the a/c cooling improve?

RedRide

07-03-2009, 06:37 PM

With such an obvious improvement to effectiveness (and efficiency) of AC system you would think Toyota would develop a standardized 'fix,' provide a service bulletin to their dealerships, thus allowing them to bill their customary 'arm and leg' charges for those customers willing and able to go that route.

I've ony had my Yaris for a couple of weeks now, however it's becoming rapidly evident that Toyota left no stone unturned in its effort to cut cost to a minimum.

I'm not complaining as I wanted an inexpensive, no frills car. :smile:

As to why no TSB on this issue.... If they had one, that would be like admitting that there is a problem.

andaconda

07-03-2009, 06:49 PM

Did the a/c cooling improve?
Not sure yet, as I only checked for clearance with the insulation.
I did check my wife's Baja, and the sister-in-laws Aveo today - neither of them has any insulation whatsoever.

I can't see how this mod could possibly hurt anything at all! (other than a few cuts and bruises.)

auxmike

07-03-2009, 07:26 PM

Not sure yet, as I only checked for clearance with the insulation.
I did check my wife's Baja, and the sister-in-laws Aveo today - neither of them has any insulation whatsoever.

I can't see how this mod could possibly hurt anything at all! (other than a few cuts and bruises.)

Yeah, looks like you hit something sharp! Mabye a glove would help prevent this for the others???

andaconda

07-03-2009, 07:33 PM

Yeah, looks like you hit something sharp! Mabye a glove would help prevent this for the others???
Are you kidding me? I can't work with gloves. I get cut up if I even look at the underside of a car.

Besides that --- what's a little mod without a little blood?

texkid

07-03-2009, 08:55 PM

Are you kidding me? I can't work with gloves. I get cut up if I even look at the underside of a car.

Besides that --- what's a little mod without a little blood?

:laughabove:

That is definitely true. Besides, gloves were useless to me when I was smelling some burned arm hair.

Not sure yet, as I only checked for clearance with the insulation.
If you don't mine, stick a meat thermometer in the air vent and let us know what temp you're getting when driving.

I noticed that mid-morning and after around 17:00 my temps go as low as 37-ish degrees.

firebob

07-03-2009, 09:38 PM

Besides that --- what's a little mod without a little blood?

If there’s not blood then you didn’t do anything.

I truly don’t think there’s a big issue with the AC as it is stock. I have looked at other cars still sitting on the lot and they use metal lines that are not insolated for part of the run also. I have driven plenty of other cars, SUVs, and trucks but I think the Yaris is as good or better with it’s cooling capabilities. Could the problem start after mods have been done that changes the temp under the hood?

If you have your AC on and you’re not running the fan wide open then why run the compressor and make the motor work harder for no reason?

PatrickJohnson

07-04-2009, 12:22 PM

If there’s not blood then you didn’t do anything.

I truly don’t think there’s a big issue with the AC as it is stock. I have looked at other cars still sitting on the lot and they use metal lines that are not insolated for part of the run also. I have driven plenty of other cars, SUVs, and trucks but I think the Yaris is as good or better with it’s cooling capabilities. Could the problem start after mods have been done that changes the temp under the hood?

If you have your AC on and you’re not running the fan wide open then why run the compressor and make the motor work harder for no reason?
The cooling was good before, but after doing this mod and driving for about a week, it is a night and day difference.

Yaris Hilton

07-04-2009, 02:52 PM

Your tetanus shots up to date, Andaconda?

firebob

07-04-2009, 02:58 PM

The cooling was good before, but after doing this mod and driving for about a week, it is a night and day difference.

I’m sure there is a good difference in doing this. I’m just saying that with the car stock it is as good other stock cars that are on the market.

Sora65

07-04-2009, 03:01 PM

andaconda

07-04-2009, 03:12 PM

If you don't mine, stick a meat thermometer in the air vent and let us know what temp you're getting when driving.

When I take it out of the garage on Monday, I'll take its temp.:thumbsup:

andaconda

07-04-2009, 03:16 PM

If you have your AC on and you’re not running the fan wide open then why run the compressor and make the motor work harder for no reason?

Instead of turning the temp down or up, I'm in the habit of pressing the air "on/off" button so that the compressor will only come on when I want to cool off.

andaconda

07-04-2009, 03:17 PM

Your tetanus shots up to date, Andaconda?

I don't believe I've ever had one???:eek:

andaconda

07-04-2009, 03:20 PM

Yeah im about to do this today. hopefully works out well.
Another question.
for the yaris sedan.. the one i have...

can you insulate passed the tube. like where the pipe line hits the compressor?
It kinda looks like a pain to do. but i like cold :)

Mine is the sedan too. It's easy to get to the pipe coming out of the compressor. Look at my second to last photo (on page 5 of this topic) of the pump itself.

AlexNet0

07-04-2009, 05:34 PM

so is there a general consensus as to what the insulating material should be? I dont want melting insulation.

andaconda

07-04-2009, 07:33 PM

so is there a general consensus as to what the insulating material should be? I dont want melting insulation.

As you can see on page 5 - the fifth photo down, I used copper pipe insulation that has about a 3/4 inch inner diameter. The insulation is about another 3/4 inch thick. I then wrapped it with aluminum tape for heat protection from the engine and exhaust manifold.

AlexNet0

07-04-2009, 08:04 PM

As you can see on page 5 - the fifth photo down, I used copper pipe insulation that has about a 3/4 inch inner diameter. The insulation is about another 3/4 inch thick. I then wrapped it with aluminum tape for heat protection from the engine and exhaust manifold.

so the heat tape stopped the insulation from melting? I would think that it would still heat up inside, just not as much radiant heat would make it through the tape. Im just worried that the general ambient temperature due to the close proximity to the exhaust manifold will still melt the insulation under the tape.

firebob

07-04-2009, 08:49 PM

The aluminum tape will help the heat transfer. With a few layers of wrap it should help spread the heat out.

yarisugi

07-05-2009, 04:55 AM

Almost completed this thing except for the alum.wrap near the pulley/engine mount - how
the heck do you wrap that area? I can't get my fingers and tape around there!!

andaconda

07-05-2009, 09:23 AM

Almost completed this thing except for the alum.wrap near the pulley/engine mount - how
the heck do you wrap that area? I can't get my fingers and tape around there!!
I cut out a section of the insulation to go around the mounting brackets and just used short pieces of tape rather that go a continuous wrap. Near the alternator, I didn't bother to wrap it at all.
I also offered a little blood to the 'engine bay gods' and that helped too.

Yaris Hilton

07-05-2009, 04:07 PM

I don't believe I've ever had one???:eek:

If you grew up in the U.S. since about the '50s, it's unlikely that you haven't had a primary tetanus immunization series. Required to go to school. But you're supposed to get a booster every 10 years, just in case you do stuff like gouge up your hands while working on your car. Lockjaw's bad stuff.

I suppose this is DIYer maintenance/service. :D

supmet

07-05-2009, 04:13 PM

If you grew up in the U.S. since about the '50s, it's unlikely that you haven't had a primary tetanus immunization series. Required to go to school. But you're supposed to get a booster every 10 years, just in case you do stuff like gouge up your hands while working on your car. Lockjaw's bad stuff.

I suppose this is DIYer maintenance/service. :D

Hmmm, you are correct, the cdc website says DTaP is required across all 50 states, but I only remember getting tetanus shots post-injury. Maybe I just don't remember because its a combo vaccine for school requirements, and just a tetanus shots after injury.

texkid

07-05-2009, 07:18 PM

Hmmm, you are correct, the cdc website says DTaP is required across all 50 states, but I only remember getting tetanus shots post-injury. Maybe I just don't remember because its a combo vaccine for school requirements, and just a tetanus shots after injury.

Rule of thumb is that if you don't remember your last DTaP shot then its time for booster.

AlexNet0

07-05-2009, 09:11 PM

Rule of thumb is that if you don't remember your last DTaP shot then its time for booster.

Lol, indeed.

Ive been lucky having cut myself, not so lightly, several times in the last two years, on not so clean metal, and havent had lockjaw yet, even though my tetanus is wayy overdue.

texkid

07-05-2009, 09:30 PM

Lol, indeed.

Ive been lucky having cut myself, not so lightly, several times in the last two years, on not so clean metal, and havent had lockjaw yet, even though my tetanus is wayy overdue.

That's why its good for 10 years. :wink:

Go ahead and treat yourself to a nice DTaP shot and enjoy the next 10 years of bumps, scrapes, and cuts. You know, the way God designed us to do. :biggrin:

nth09

07-06-2009, 03:23 AM

are those aluminum tape the same that we use in the kitchen? Or is it a sticky back tape?

yarisugi

07-06-2009, 04:31 AM

andaconda

07-06-2009, 09:21 AM

Rule of thumb is that if you don't remember your last DTaP shot then its time for booster.

Ah, come on now. Suck it up, and toughen yourselves up!

PatrickJohnson

07-06-2009, 01:26 PM

^ It feels like aluminum foil that we use in the kitchen, but one side is sticky. That's why it's called aluminum tape.

I think I might have done a little overkill. On the back end, after wrapping with aluminum tape,
I had some Thermo-Tec Heat Shield left over and wrapped some more.
I think the Thermo-Tec can withstand the heat much better than the aluminum tape.
By the way, do you wrap that big bubble like thing in between the tube by the ECU? What is that for?

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk125/LookOnTheBrightSide/yarisac.jpg

If you read earlier in the thread, i think it's actually the original post, it says you don't have to cover that part, but that it does make a difference if you do. I don't have that part covered on my install, but only because I didn't have large enough material to do so, and i plan on doing it when i get back to the store.

texkid

07-06-2009, 03:59 PM

Ah, come on now. Suck it up, and toughen yourselves up!

My, my...

You can't really "toughen yourself" out of lock-jaw. In fact, that is the first sign that you should get treated. Why? I am glad you asked.....After your jaw locks up, your neck muscles and the muscles you use to facilitate in breathing begin to "lock-up". Once that happens, which are the late signs of a tetanus infection, you can't scream for help much less breathe effectively; putting you into respiratory arrest and then....well you get the rest.

Hence why it is important to be up to date with your vaccines. Besides, can you imagine what our friends will say? "Did you hear about 'so-and-so'? After he modified his car he died of tetanus. Who wants dibs on this car?" :burnrubber: :eyebulge:

By the way, do you wrap that big bubble like thing in between the tube by the ECU? What is that for?

Honestly, I don't know what it is for. All I know is that it is wider and needs more material to wrap. It did make about a 3 to 5 degree difference when I wrapped it up. And yes, it was mentioned in my initial post.

texkid

07-06-2009, 04:24 PM

Just a few tidbits...I fear getting hit by a drunk driver head-on for the second time more than Tetanus...Fear of getting Tetanus from surface scratches caused by dirty or rusty parts (or stepping on a nail for that matter) is hugely overblown...

Oh hell yeah I fear more from a drunk driver or an idiot t-boning me at an intersection or getting mugged at gun point.

The point is that this is one measure that is preventable. There are still people I've met at the hospital that were in their 30 to 40's and still managed to contract Polio. POLIO for Pete's sake?! Cheese and Rice! That is another disease that could've be prevented. Yes, Polio and Tetanus are diseases that are more rare than car accidents. But no one wants to be that 1 person that contracted either of those, right?

Another case is that there are still kids in inner-city neighborhoods that are getting Lead poisoning. Another avoidable case. In 85% (my personal estimate) of those cases I came across, it was because the parents never thought that Lead was still on their walls! All they had to do when they moved in was just test the paint, strip the walls, and put on a fresh coat of lead-free paint that is available EVERYWHERE. But because of that same mentality in which Lead poisoning is so RARE nowadays, who would've thought that it would happen to their child?

andaconda

07-06-2009, 07:44 PM

:laughabove:

If you don't mine, stick a meat thermometer in the air vent and let us know what temp you're getting when driving.

Well I checked it on my 15min way home from work. Outside air not recycled air. Fan was on 2. Temp hung right around 40 degrees.
Temp increased to 42 degrees when I turned the fan on 4.

I wish I would have taken it's temp before the mod.

andaconda

07-06-2009, 07:45 PM

I hope I didn't open a can of tetanus worms....

Lazerdot

07-06-2009, 08:00 PM

Did all but the area by the pullies. I put aluminum rap around the insulating foam and lightly tie wrapped the total. In my head ity seems cooler. Wish I had done a before after. But, can it hurt?:burnrubber:

YarisSedan

07-06-2009, 08:21 PM

The only one thing keeping me from doing this mod. Is every pic i have seen looks way ugly!. I am trying to keep my engine bay looking show quality and clean.

CTScott

07-06-2009, 10:14 PM

The only one thing keeping me from doing this mod. Is every pic i have seen looks way ugly!. I am trying to keep my engine bay looking show quality and clean.

Instead of aluminum tape, use heat/flame resistant wire loom:

It even comes in blue, red and black.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=thermo%20flex&dds=1

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/the-17150-10_w.jpg

cali yaris

07-06-2009, 11:03 PM

Here was a case where the tetanus vaccine made a lot of sense, as the soldiers were in a very hazardous environment with a high chance of contracting the disease. Do today’s children have the same odds?"

hmmm.... you should see my son's room

mikenacarato

07-06-2009, 11:33 PM

texkid

07-06-2009, 11:45 PM

first off, i wanna say i love this idea!!!

second, how long until the evap core freezes over? i would put some a/c gauges on it every now and then to see what your low side pressure reading is, if you notice it dropping then your evap core is freezing up and will cause the system to shut off.

I thought there were safety features that would prevent that? :iono: I guess someone should keep an eye on it and let us if we screwed something or maybe tweak it a bit more.

Instead of aluminum tape, use heat/flame resistant wire loom:

It even comes in blue, red and black.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=thermo%20flex&dds=1

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/the-17150-10_w.jpg

That is an awesome idea. I imagine one must cut a slit in order to wrap around the lines?

Did all but the area by the pullies. I put aluminum rap around the insulating foam and lightly tie wrapped the total. In my head ity seems cooler. Wish I had done a before after. But, can it hurt?:burnrubber:
It should work. You be the judge. Does it feel cooler? I am noticing that I can now drive with the setting at (2) instead of the usual (3) or (4).

Temp increased to 42 degrees when I turned the fan on 4.
I wish I would have taken it's temp before the mod.

I have been noticing that as well. I am assuming that it is only blowing the air faster without adjusting temperature to the A/C; essentially more quantity and less quality?

Nonetheless, it is not too bad since supposedly you get COLDER air when set to "recirculating".

Revsson

07-07-2009, 02:38 AM

That is an awesome idea. I imagine one must cut a slit in order to wrap around the lines?

That's what it tells you to do on the advertisement page. :wink:

Much nicer looking than the silver wrap, IMO.

Henry G.

07-07-2009, 07:42 PM

Did mine today. I zip tied the foam as I went from one end to the other, then twisted/adjusted the foam, re-tightened the zipties as necessary and cut the ends off. I found the aluminum tape at Home Cheapo, a small roll (50 yards!) was 7 bucks and change, I saw the larger roll it was almost $15, the small roll is enough to do 20 cars at least.
I rotated the zip tie buckles to the rear before taping. As Anaconda mentioned the hot tip is to cut short pieces of tape, approx 6 inches long and wrap one section at a time, I used about a 1/4" overlap, and double wrapped the area closest to the header. IMO the header is likely responsible for most the heat warming the line, so I just did the back section across the firewall, the rest is too curvy and complicated for a clean wrap.
Half way there:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/YarisPics001.jpg

Finished:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/YarisPics002.jpg

I will check the result and see if I can feel the difference later today.
Good thread and DIY thanks guys.

Dage

07-07-2009, 09:38 PM

It is not a good idea. theres a reason why toyota does not did that.

I work in refrigeration and climatisation.

The temperature of the air supply must never be lower than 50 degre F.

You need 20 degre F between the inlet and supply.

Your compressor will compress liquid refrigerant and its not good for longue time life.

without insulation, you gonna have better heat transfer for refrigerant vapor compress.

So, i don't think that is a good idea.

EasyDriver

07-07-2009, 10:34 PM

I used pipe insulation only on mine and also did the lower area by the compressor. For the area by the engine mount and alternator pulley I took a 3" x 4" piece of aluminum dryer vent, bent it half mooned shape, over the low pressure line and over the low pressure line. I kind of wedged it in place firmly.

I get cold air in under 3 minutes...my vent thermometer (thanks for the tip on finding that texkid!). I'm reading 38 degrees vent temperature. I did not have the thermometer before the project, but I know it was not nearly as cold.

What kind of vent temperature are those of you that have used the aluminum tape getting?

EasyDriver

07-07-2009, 11:43 PM

Correction: I took a 3" x 4" piece of aluminum dryer vent, bent it half mooned shape, over the low pressure line and over the high pressure line. I kind of wedged it in place firmly.

n00b

07-08-2009, 01:54 AM

ok...guess you didn't read properly what we did.we're not insulating the refrigerant as it enters the compressor but after its refrigerated so that it doesn't warm up when it goes back to the cabin.

both of you are incorrect.

The low pressure line is for refrigerant going to the compressor. It's a good idea to insulate the low pressure line to keep the refrigerant cool as it enters the compressor. The cool refrigerant helps cool down the compressor. The high pressure line goes into the cabin. The high pressure goes through the expansion valve making it a low pressure liquid and cold. The warm air passes through the evaporator and boils the refrigerant into a cold gas.

Why is it a good idea to insulate the high pressure line? Because you don't want your engine heat to warm up the cooled refrigerant that will be entering your cabin. From the pictures posted, it looks like the high pressure line is VERY close to the exaust manifold. Basically, your condenser is cooling the refrigerant, and a few feet later, your exaust is warming it back up again!

Seriously... just do a damn google search on how a/c works. The high pressure line is the one going to the evaporator, the low pressure line is the one going to the compresser.

yarisugi

07-08-2009, 03:07 AM

ok... what?
Just want to make sure I got this right. Wrap only the fat tube on the top. Leave the skinny tube alone. Correct?

n00b

07-08-2009, 03:35 AM

ok... what?
Just want to make sure I got this right. Wrap only the fat tube on the top. Leave the skinny tube alone. Correct?

That's your choice. Wrap both if possible.

andaconda

07-08-2009, 09:36 AM

Man, I'm I getting confused now...

Yaris Hilton

07-08-2009, 10:48 AM

Might be the tetanus setting in...

Lafiro

07-08-2009, 11:37 AM

I thought about this weeks ago and wanted to post this, but school and work and internship and other jobs are taking my life over.

Now that I see lots are doing this little trick, I will be going today to buy myself that foam.

Question is, what size diameter did you buy? Maybe home depot is a good place to buy it?

Thanks!

n00b

07-08-2009, 01:44 PM

no need to wrap the second one , there is no point in wrapping it since the system needs to be hot on that side for the loop.

http://www.energyquest.ca.gov/how_it_works/air_conditioner.html

When the working fluid leaves the condenser, its temperature is much cooler and it has changed from a gas to a liquid under high pressure. The liquid goes into the evaporator through a very tiny, narrow hole. On the other side, the liquid's pressure drops. When it does it begins to evaporate into a gas.

I guess you should just bypass the condenser then! :rolleyes:

Man, I'm I getting confused now...

The low pressure line is for refrigerant flowing to the compressor. The high pressure line is for refrigerant flowing into the cabin.

Lafiro

07-08-2009, 03:34 PM

Off topic, but where in the world is the part that is growing mold and causing my air to stink really bad and give me breathing problems now?

Someone please help me with that because I have to fix this issue. Since today I am free and having major problems installing my fog lights, I can not go to the dealership. Already tried calling and they are having phone problems.

EasyDriver

07-08-2009, 04:53 PM

try this discussion.....http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10481&highlight=mold+cabin+filter

b_hickman11

07-08-2009, 06:01 PM

Henry G.

07-08-2009, 06:45 PM

n00b

07-08-2009, 07:40 PM

Ok, with limited knowledge of the complexities of A/C system but with a brain and sense of touch this is easy: The big line (marked "L" on the fill/drain valve cap) is ICE COLD with the A/C on, the little line (marked "H" on the fill/drain valve) is hot. That tells me simply that it is THE BIG LINE that needs to be insulated as long as we agree the goal is to get COLD AIR from the A/C!
Try and argue that......
BTW I noticed a small but definite improvement from the wrapping I did yesterday so I will continue to do some more wrapping today....

If the goal is to get colder air, you want to insulate both if possible. From the pictures posted, it looks like you can insulate the high pressure line where the exaust manifold is (that would be an important place to insulate since it's so close to a heat source).

The high pressure line should not be hot (with the exception being the line from the compressor to the condenser) or that means your condenser is not cooling the refrigerant.

http://movacs.com/How%20it%20works/index.html
http://movacs.com/How%20it%20works/acsystem.jpg

n00b

07-08-2009, 07:44 PM

basically you want to keep whats cool cooler and whats warm warmer

Then Denso failed by making a better condenser that cools the refrigerant even more!

http://www.globaldensoproducts.com/cc/cacs/condenser.html
http://www.globaldensoproducts.com/images/condenser.jpg

mikenacarato

07-08-2009, 07:51 PM

Henry G.

07-08-2009, 08:16 PM

Good post and diagram PK.
I just decided with that roll of tape there I would finish the job and wrap everything on the big line (notice I'm staying out of the technical argument by not naming it):

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/YarisPics003.jpg
Wrapped the "can" portion of the line by taking two pieces of equal length insulation and doing the zip tie/tape thing.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/YarisPics004.jpg
Did the piece of line that runs against the inner fender, kind of a pain. I found the trick was to cut the piece to the right length, take it back off, install 2 already looped(just barely so as to leave the maximum room) on the pipe, put the insulation back on then wiggle the zip tie loops over either ends and then tighten them.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/YarisPics005.jpg
After that section this one was easy, I used tape again even though I dont think heat is a concern way up front but because I figure the engine bay heat in general is likely to harden the zip ties quickly making them brittle and breaking them, so the tape was more of a securing thing.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/YarisPics006.jpg
And this pic is from under the car, this section of pipe is easier to do most of the work from under the car believe it or not. Same thing zip tie and tape.

n00b

07-08-2009, 08:35 PM

n00b why dont you either leave or properly introduce yourself in the welcome forum. do you even drive a yaris? your just starting crap we dont need. all of your posts have been in this 1 thread. im sure they have a forum out there that discusses stuff you have found on google and wikipedia...

To answer your's and PK198105's question of driving a Yaris, I do not. I drive an Echo (which has crappier a/c than the Yaris).

I don't feel like posting in the welcome forum. I've never done that on any of the forums I am a member of.

Sodium Duck

07-08-2009, 08:39 PM

Hence your user name... newbert.

talnlnky

07-08-2009, 08:54 PM

you all make this way too hard.

1)The cooler the hot side, the cooler the cold side, which means the cooler the air will be.

2)The cooler you can keep the cold side before it reaches the cabin, also the cooler your air will be.

The high temp loam plus high temp/fire retardant foam is what I would use too. That, or I think i've seen hi-temp split rubber tubing before.

b_hickman11

07-08-2009, 09:11 PM

Does anyone know the longterm effects this mod will have on the AC components? This sounds like a good mod for the time being but will this cause the dryer or the Evap or other parts to go out at a faster rate? Sounds like this mod will create more water in the air which will cause the parts to work harder. Maybe even causing an increase in mildew build up which is already an issue with the stock system.

n00b

07-08-2009, 09:36 PM

CTScott

07-08-2009, 09:38 PM

It shouldn't cause any issues. Normally with an AC system you insulate the suction side if the system is cooling only, and both suction and discharge if it is a reverse cycle system (i.e heat pump).

The Yaris's AC amplifier (ecu for the AC system) has temperature and pressure sensors to keep it from killing the compressor if the coils freeze up. Also, I don't think that this could cause the system to suddenly become so efficient that it can't dehumidify the air before reaching the desired inside temp (like a severely over-sized central air system in a house). I haven't seen the inside of the airbox, but the mold and stink issue is probably being caused by the condensate not properly draining (or maybe soaking into an insulation material within the box). This could explain why the TSB involves replacing the airbox.

EasyDriver

07-08-2009, 10:42 PM

I got mine at Home Depot in the plumbing department. $1.38 for a 6 foot piece....all you'll need and then some. I thought I got the 1/2 inch ID, but I just measured a left over piece and it was 1 3/8 OD and 3/4 ID. I got the zip ties at Wallyworld, the 100 pack in the automotive area was less than $3...fortunately I didn't need a 100 though!

Good luck!

EasyDriver

07-08-2009, 11:01 PM

How you ever managed to get zip ties in the area near the alternator (picture 2) is beyond me! I tried and tried to do that, but couldn't get it done. Or, maybe my patience just ran out!

mikenacarato

07-09-2009, 12:01 AM

There are no long-term effects other than a better working a/c.

evap core freezing up......

n00b

07-09-2009, 12:52 AM

wikipedia told you this?

Thanks, I'm done with this forum. I'll let you believe 2+2=5.

Lafiro

07-09-2009, 01:03 AM

Now im trying to figure out if the cold line we are feeling on the top of the exhaust/left of the motor is actually going into the cabin, or coming out?

The pictures above show it coming out, meaning what is the point to keep something cool thats not going to the cabin to make us cool!?

Someone has to explain this better, or maybe there is another place to insulate this?

Also has anyone looked under the steering wheel, right side of the floor, and also seen how close the two pipes come to each other? Seems like that needs insulation as well!

Lafiro

07-09-2009, 01:32 AM

Yes, that explination worked out great. Thanks.

I will try doing this tomorrow, couldn't today because I was in the process of installing fog lights.

mikenacarato

07-09-2009, 01:41 AM

that would be the case if we insulate the HIGH PRESSURE line.

the compressor might not have to work so hard, neither your fan so i would say that long term effects would be beneficial.

ah, well then ill take your work on it. i have some heat shielding tape im going to use i just wanted to make sure the core wouldnt freeze. :w00t:

EasyDriver

07-09-2009, 09:47 AM

If anyone is concerned about the core freezing up....simply don't cover the entire line. It won't be as cold in the cabin, but you don't have to worry about it. If you covered the entire line, like I did, all you have to do is remove some of the insulation and the problem is solved.

texkid

07-09-2009, 11:30 AM

How you ever managed to get zip ties in the area near the alternator (picture 2) is beyond me! I tried and tried to do that, but couldn't get it done. Or, maybe my patience just ran out!

Patience and a needle nose pliers to use as my second fingers. But mainly patience. :biggrin:

b_hickman11

07-09-2009, 04:06 PM

There are no long-term effects other than a better working a/c.

How many years have you had this mod?

b_hickman11

07-09-2009, 04:09 PM

What does the dryer do?

CTScott

07-09-2009, 04:43 PM

What does the dryer do?

The dryer removes moisture that may have entered the system to protect the compressor.

b_hickman11

07-09-2009, 07:06 PM

The dryer removes moisture that may have entered the system to protect the compressor.

So....I would assume that the dryer has some type of rating on it, meaning the amount of moisture it can remove out of the air in a given amount of time. With this new mod, more moisture will be present in the line. How do we know that the dryer will do it's job with the extra moisture. It might work for now, but a year from now, or 2, or 3, will it still be able to work correctly or will it break prematurely due to having to work harder?? Anyone have any longterm data?

toast

07-09-2009, 08:23 PM

So....I would assume that the dryer has some type of rating on it, meaning the amount of moisture it can remove out of the air in a given amount of time. With this new mod, more moisture will be present in the line. ?

The drier will trap moisture and debris that entered the system when it was assembled and charged. As the a/c system is a sealed system you will not be getting any new moisture in the lines until a leak develops and then you have a whole new problem... no cooling. If you replace a compressor you change the drier too.

b_hickman11

07-09-2009, 08:36 PM

The drier will trap moisture and debris that entered the system when it was assembled and charged. As the a/c system is a sealed system you will not be getting any new moisture in the lines until a leak develops and then you have a whole new problem... no cooling. If you replace a compressor you change the drier too.

So whats the point of a dryer?? The way you describe it is that once it dries the initial moisture in the air when the AC is used for the very first time, then dryer is useless?

CTScott

07-09-2009, 08:47 PM

So whats the point of a dryer?? The way you describe it is that once it dries the initial moisture in the air when the AC is used for the very first time, then dryer is useless?

It has the ability to absorb a significant amount of moisture - more than should be in the system from initial manufacturing. Once the system leaks enough to reach atmospheric pressure the dryer will most likely become saturated. Replacing the dryer, when replacing the compressor is important, since you can't easily tell the condition of the dryer and it is cheap in comparison to the compressor.

b_hickman11

07-09-2009, 10:45 PM

It has the ability to absorb a significant amount of moisture - more than should be in the system from initial manufacturing. Once the system leaks enough to reach atmospheric pressure the dryer will most likely become saturated. Replacing the dryer, when replacing the compressor is important, since you can't easily tell the condition of the dryer and it is cheap in comparison to the compressor.

So why wouldn't they come up with a machine that dry's out the system at the factory and not install a dryer since the dryer is useless after becoming saturated from the moisture in the lines during installation. Wouldn't that be more green for the economy??

CTScott

07-09-2009, 10:53 PM

When you charge an AC system, you first draw a vacuum on it to pull out as much moisture and particulate as possible. It's impossible to get every bit, so that's where the dryer comes into play.

b_hickman11

07-10-2009, 12:44 AM

When you charge an AC system, you first draw a vacuum on it to pull out as much moisture and particulate as possible. It's impossible to get every bit, so that's where the dryer comes into play.

Thats why they need to have a removable dryer. Has a shut off valve before and after the dryer. After the dryer has done it's job, shut the valves off and remove the dryer. Clean the dryer out and reuse it on the next car coming down the belt.

MadMax

07-10-2009, 09:15 AM

How many years have you had this mod?

That's the rub, no one has had this done on their cars for more than a couple of weeks; so if there are any adverse long-term effects, no one knows!

I might be crazy, but I simply never run the a/c in my Yaris even with the triple-digit temps we've been having for the past month or so. I also drive an open Jeep, so maybe I am used to it, or I've killed all the brain cells that would've told me I am nuts; but since I most drive on freeways without a lot of stops on my commute, the two windows down method keeps me comfortable enough...and it sure feels great when I walk into the air conditioned house! :w00t:

Cheers! M2

b_hickman11

07-10-2009, 01:38 PM

That's the rub, no one has had this done on their cars for more than a couple of weeks; so if there are any adverse long-term effects, no one knows!

I might be crazy, but I simply never run the a/c in my Yaris even with the triple-digit temps we've been having for the past month or so. I also drive an open Jeep, so maybe I am used to it, or I've killed all the brain cells that would've told me I am nuts; but since I most drive on freeways without a lot of stops on my commute, the two windows down method keeps me comfortable enough...and it sure feels great when I walk into the air conditioned house! :w00t:

Cheers! M2

I already knew the answer to the question. I was just trying to figure out how he knew that there were NO longterm effects.....

Henry G.

07-12-2009, 03:05 PM

Drove into town yesterday, around 100 degrees the AC is definitely colder. So I call this one a success. If the AC breaks for some reason in the future (I doubt it) I will take 5 minutes and cut the stuff off before taking it to the dealer so they don't have a (weak) reason to refuse the warranty claim.

b_hickman11

07-12-2009, 06:58 PM

Henry G.

07-13-2009, 03:19 AM

Got the "Gold" 100k warranty for $299. The finance guy started at $599 I said no until he got to $299. I said "I thought these Toyotas were supposed to be reliable is there something youre not telling me?"
Hard to sell one one of the most reliable cars on the market then convince you you should get the extended warranty don't you think?

Lafiro

07-13-2009, 04:58 PM

talnlnky

07-21-2009, 12:48 PM

I got some large size heater core tubing (that rubber stuff that connects your radiator to your motor. Going to wrap the AC pipe with foam, then cover the foam with this rubber tubing. Its oil/fluid resistant, and also hi-temp. Should work well, and the dull black color should make it look fairly stock/stealth.

MadMax

07-21-2009, 01:51 PM

talnlnky

07-21-2009, 03:24 PM

Take pics and post 'em!

Cheers! M2
will do... might not be till next week... I got soccer tonight so I probably wont pick up the foam until tomorrow... and then to make sure it looks nice I want to take my time... so my work will most likely be slow.

I'll be cutting a slit down the tube (think split loom) and then either zip tie it closed... or better yet... maybe silicone sealant.

talnlnky

07-23-2009, 12:51 PM

will do... might not be till next week... I got soccer tonight so I probably wont pick up the foam until tomorrow... and then to make sure it looks nice I want to take my time... so my work will most likely be slow.

I'll be cutting a slit down the tube (think split loom) and then either zip tie it closed... or better yet... maybe silicone sealant.

ok... started working on this... The rubber heater core tube fits perfectly over the pipe.... except when the pipe bends. Going to stop by home depot or lowes on the way back to see if I can find a thin type of foam to cover the pipe. There are a few corners which which are too tight for me to get the hose to bend around, so I'll have to cut weird wedges to cover the corners. Then i'll just have to wrap black electric tape neatly around that to make it stay in place well. Even if I don't find anyfoam... I'm sure the rubber heater core tubing will insulate it fairly well. Will post pics when i'm done.

texkid

07-23-2009, 12:58 PM

So I took a digital thermometer and at a standstill in the shade the temperature goes to around 42f. And when I drive it goes to a low and steady 35f. The temperature outside was 78f. This was done with the fan on 2.

I will be wrapping the pipe today hopefully and will let everyone know what happens.

I am not sure if the mod will benefit you. If you're already getting 35-degrees then thats not too bad. Of course, NYC is around 78-degrees whereas Houston is running around high 90's. That can make a difference between A/C.

Who knows, maybe the mod will drop yours down to 33-degrees!

Lafiro

07-23-2009, 02:32 PM

texkid

07-23-2009, 03:33 PM

Ill be honest, I wrapped mine up in fiberlass(dads idea), and then aluminum tape, and it did pretty much Nothing to lower the temps.

Im about to remove it cause its a messy look. I will go the foam route though soon.

And like I said, it only drops to that temp at the lowest. Usually when the car is moving, and the compressor is active, it will drop to the upper 30's. And as soon as the compressor stops, it can go as high as 47degrees. If the car is sitting doing nothing, it will go between 40 and 47degress. This is all in farenheit.

Hmmm...I guess do try the foam approach. But even hi-30's with no insulation seems about fair. You tell me, what's considered hot weather in NYC? Do you do a lot of stop-and-go traffic or are you actually able to cruise a longer periods? Because if mid-80's is about average and since the our A/C systems vary according the the weather and driving conditions, you might be able to get that sucker down to 35-ish?

Heck, anyone from Arizona or New Mexico try this mod and still get colder air? :biggrin:

Lafiro

07-23-2009, 04:08 PM

It ranges, the past couple of days have been 78-84degrees. And the temperature remains around the same levels.

Now thats a silly question about cruising, or stop and go. Where do I live? lol Its all stop and go, even the highways 80% of the time.

texkid

07-23-2009, 04:40 PM

Now thats a silly question about cruising, or stop and go. Where do I live? lol Its all stop and go, even the highways 80% of the time.

:laughabove:

Sorry, never been to NYC. In Houston, San Antonio, and Dallas, yeah there is primarily stop-and-go traffic but once you get a bit of the ways out, you can fly at 70mph without a problem. LoL!

Let us know what are the results after the foam approach.

talnlnky

07-24-2009, 01:38 PM

well, since the heater tube didn't bend as well as I had hoped for I had to use more electrical tape, and make more pieces of tube than I had wanted. So, it doesn't look as nice as I was hoping, but it still looks decent. I also ended up deciding to go without any foam.

The electrical tape is good to 220 degrees F, and the tubing i'd think would be good to at least 300 F. The tubing is fairly thick, so I don't think foam is necessary.

Yesterday I was able to finish the first lil curved pieced located near the radiator before the fiance got home. Will try and finish the rest tonight.

I won't have numbers on mine, since I only use AC about every two months when I do a 1000 mile trip. If nothing else, wrapping it in rubber tubing should help protect the pipes from corrosion or any damage from happening to them.

supmet

07-24-2009, 01:45 PM

I won't have numbers on mine, since I only use AC about every two months when I do a 1000 mile trip. If nothing else, wrapping it in rubber tubing should help protect the pipes from corrosion or any damage from happening to them.

That's an interesting point. If you wrap it in foil tape, it keeps water out. But if its just foam and zip ties like most people, I wonder if there is a chance of it actually increasing corrosion, giving the water somewhere to sit touching the pipe, rather than just hitting the pipe and evaporating or just sliding off.

talnlnky

07-24-2009, 04:11 PM

That's an interesting point. If you wrap it in foil tape, it keeps water out. But if its just foam and zip ties like most people, I wonder if there is a chance of it actually increasing corrosion, giving the water somewhere to sit touching the pipe, rather than just hitting the pipe and evaporating or just sliding off.

well... moisture will only foam where there is air present, so, if the foam is perfectly on the pipe with no gaps or pockets for air, there will be no moisture. That's not practical however.

Another point tho.... moisture will only form where there is a significant change in temperature.... gotta drop the temp below the dewpoint with the given humidity....so, even if there are pockets of air under the foam, if the foam is insulating well from the outside, it still shouldn't be much of an issue.

I'm not a huge fan of using the foam simply for fire/heat issues.... and covering it up with that aluminum tape.... ehhh... looks ugly I think. I'm sure foam and tape however will be a better insulator than what i'm doing. I however don't really have much of a complaint with my ac to begin with... but figure this will help some, and on long trips, this might help me keep the AC off a bit more... thus increasing mpg's. Total weight added will be less than a pound too.

ricepower

08-03-2009, 06:17 AM

:thumbup:

talnlnky

08-03-2009, 03:16 PM

finished over the weekend.... don't have net at home anymore.... neighbors moved out... will take pics and try to upload them at work sometime this week. Using electrical tape was a pita because of the hot line that runs very close to the cold line getting in the way. I can see why the original poster used zip ties. I'm also sure that foam would work better than heater core tubing like I used... tho, not nearly as safe (I don't have to worry about high temps or hot liquids).

cali yaris

08-03-2009, 04:05 PM

don't have net at home anymore.... neighbors moved out.

LOL - you were "borrowing" internet access?

talnlnky

08-03-2009, 05:31 PM

LOL - you were "borrowing" internet access?

I prefer the term looting... maybe even stealing. Don't worry, I was all ninja about it... they didn't know.

IsLNdbOi

05-31-2010, 10:12 PM

First off, I really should THANK Echo-hrs for the idea. If he never mentioned in the first place, I probably would've never know to do this to my car. I went to my mechanic for some help. After taking a look at my car, he definitely agreed that the Low Pressure line needed to be insulated.

I purchased a meat thermometer to get a reading on how its running BEFORE I started doing the insulation. Below is the reading with the A/C set to (4) on Recirculating, with all vents open; driving from work to home (roughly 20 minutes) ABOUT 50-DEGREES

Here is temp, with the car in the drive-way and windows half open. Its 120-freaking-degrees!

AND FINALLY, here is the temp AFTER the insulation driving for 15 minutes. A DROP OF ALMOST 10-DEGREES!

So, without further delay, on with the DIY.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for what happens to your car. Do this at your own risk.

Tools:
- A pack of foam pipe covers (.75 cents at Wallmart)
- A pack of 6 inch wire ties or whatever you call them
As far as the zip ties are concerned, DO NOT tie them too tight like I did. Just enough tension to keep them in place is all that is needed.
- A meat thermometer
- A couple bottles of water
- SHADE!

Instructions:

Lets start with what the hell we are insulating. It is the low pressure line going from the firewall to the rubber hose before it hits the condensor. Its marked with a pink line at the firewall and has a pressure valved labeled "L". When run the A/C, this line should be the only one that is COLD to the touch. The smaller line that sits below it should be open to air as it is taking hot air out of the cabin and back to the condenser.

next: get your foam pipe insulation and check to see if it fits. If its too loose, you can trim off a bit. But just a BIT!

-Start at the firewall end since it is most difficult and cramped part of the job. At this point, it is recommended that the engine is cool to touch. I singed a couple of arm hair before I realized that. LOL!

-Run it as much as you can, once you hit that big, "drum" looking thing, cut and start tying it down. As far as that "drum" looking thing, you're just going have to get creative and find a way to cover it. But it does make a difference when you do.
As far as the zip ties are concerned, DO NOT tie them too tight like I did. Just enough tension to keep them in place is all that is needed.

-For the other side, grab a piece and run it from the front side and thread it under the engine mount. Tie that down very well and make sure nothing can hit the belt or the alternator.

-For the rest of the low pressure line, just keep tying it down until you hit the rubber hose. I shouldn't have to tell you this, but cut holes where needed such as the low pressure valve and that do-hicky you see below.

-AND YOU'RE DONE! Cut off the excess straps so they won't get tangled into anything.

Ok so it's been almost a year since this thread was made.

Anyone found / notice and negatives to doing this? Has it really made a difference in a/c efficiency?

Henry G.

06-02-2010, 12:37 PM

Yep it definitely works. I used the aluminum tape over the foam and zip ties and its all still holding together nicely. Check the clearance at the back of the motor between the exhaust manifold and AC line (when the cars cool), its about an inch and half. Does that make sense? No!!

bobolinko

06-03-2010, 03:40 PM

I read this thread and decided it was a good "investment" Mod so here you can see what the result was....

I used The Wiring Loom instead of aluminum for cosmetic reasons and wanted the engine bay to look a little neater... The loom has not degraded or shown any signs of overheating, so mybe it will last....(hopefully)
There is enough of it in the engine bay already so it should do fine.

The DIY results were as good as I expected.

You can see the final result at this link:http://www.scikotics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192547

Aloha From Hawaii !

metalshark

06-05-2010, 11:31 AM

Ok so it's been almost a year since this thread was made.

Anyone found / notice and negatives to doing this? Has it really made a difference in a/c efficiency?

On the Pro side it will help fuel economy because the compressor is a variable compression design as most are these days. On the con side if you were over charged and running AC on a cool day you would let liquid refrigerant into your compressor producing hydrostatic lock. When I do mine I will use aluminum tape over the insulation to reflect heat away from the insulation. That makes it way harder to melt the cheap insulation with under hood heat. The other hyper-miler tip here in Phoenix is to tint the windows. Both this insulation and window tint will cut the mileage drain AC caused here in Lucifer's waiting room. Window tint alone reduces the fan setting you have to use to wear a suit when the outside air temp on the express way says 1198 degrees F. I get 39 MPG here at 65 MPG on cruise lock. I've been watching for a trick to break 40 under the same harsh conditions. I average 42 city and highway so hyper-mile tricks between lights does work. Our winter mileage is even better than that. From my sig you can also see the other mods that allow better than EPA mileage results.

metalshark

06-05-2010, 11:40 AM

Update:

Yes, I had the circulation backwards.

However, I did some more research. Insulating the high pressure side will not improve cooling. Some mechanics sites say it'll do nothing....others say it'll put more pressure on the compressor, and blah, blah, blah.

Personally, I have not seen ANY positive results on insulating the High Side. In the meantime, I am going to research for insulation that withstand higher temps.You don't want to insulate the High pressure line. Doing so will cut the sub-cooling of the High pressure liquid returning from the condenser and will decrease efficiency and mileage as a consequence.

Yaris Hilton

06-05-2010, 12:29 PM

I think if it would make a big improvement, the factory would've already done it.

bobolinko

06-05-2010, 01:47 PM

I think if it would make a big improvement, the factory would've already done it.

That's why I hesitated and waited so long to do it... My thoughts were like yours. However, summer heat is just around the corner, and a FEW degrees make a big difference when you're just above the "comfort zone" temp wise...

My Co-Worker was also skeptical, but after we went to lunch in my car, he decided to do it on his Tacoma as well, and even on his wife's car too. We FELT and SAW the difference and figured it could translate into a better fuel effeciency rating if the compressor would not kick in as often.

At any rate, I like the feel of the colder air blowing on my face while I sit in traffic, waiting to move 15 feet more before the light changes.... LOL

Yaris Hilton

06-05-2010, 10:30 PM

Yeah, any improvement's a good thing. Gridlock in summer is grim without AC. Especially when straddling a big air cooled Harley engine.

RHDVIPbB

06-07-2010, 01:27 AM

Just did it to my car over the weekend and I notice a small difference. It is in the high 80's so I will check after this week and see how it does. Fairly easy to do.

90tsi

06-07-2010, 01:33 AM

funny i just did this several hours ago. lol took like 30mins. i thought it worked well. worth the whole $2 in supplies i used.

IsLNdbOi

06-07-2010, 01:37 AM

Where can I get the supplies to do this?

kazama82

06-07-2010, 04:13 AM

To share my DIY..mine is yaris sedan

http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/kazama82/DIY/DIYaircond1.jpg
http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/kazama82/DIY/DIYaircond2.jpg
http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/kazama82/DIY/DIYaircond3.jpg
http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/kazama82/DIY/DIYaircond4.jpg
http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/kazama82/DIY/DIYaircond5.jpg
http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/zz345/kazama82/DIY/DIYaircond6.jpg

Echostatic

06-07-2010, 04:02 PM

I'll be trying this out this afternoon and probably taking video of the process, if anyone would find that useful. Here's hoping the shade is enough to stave off the 100 degree heat...

nick.dollimount

06-07-2010, 04:19 PM

I'll be trying this out this afternoon and probably taking video of the process, if anyone would find that useful. Here's hoping the shade is enough to stave off the 100 degree heat...

Video DIY's are always welcome!

severous01

06-07-2010, 04:35 PM

anyone try headerwrap and speed tape? the aluminum ducttape? thinner, probably better insulator with the shiney tape...and you know it wont catch fire lol.

i think i'll get some header-wrap and see for myself.

swidd

06-07-2010, 04:59 PM

I just did this, after finding this thread today.

$1.92 at Lowes for 6 feet of self-adhesive 3/4" Inside Diameter tube.
$3.19 at Walmart for 200F duct tape (low quality, but will probably do).

I don't have a temperature meter, but will say the effect on the a/c air was noticeable, but not extremely colder. I only covered the portions on the low pressure line (top) that were easily accessible (and straight), and will spend more time later to cover all the little spots...

Thanks for this DIY!

swidd

06-07-2010, 05:00 PM

Also, holding my hand over the tube feeling the radiant heat from the exhaust, I don't see how it can end up burning or melting. Granted its a windy day, but immediately after shutting down from a drive, it wasn't too warm to touch.

Echostatic

06-08-2010, 07:13 PM

Welp, I made the video as planned yesterday, but immediately after doing so, I figured out a much better and less butt-ugly way to wrap the pipe; I redid it after work today without the camera running. So, I'll throw up a video/pic mix instead shortly.

*MAD DOG*

06-09-2010, 04:36 AM

http://www.phreque.com/_tempor/camrig/lpl_insul8.wmv

Is this the "butt ugly" one or the other one?

Echostatic

06-09-2010, 09:05 AM

Other.

Bluevitz-rs

06-09-2010, 11:07 AM

That video was INTENSE!!!!

Echostatic

06-09-2010, 01:22 PM

*shrug* Now it's gone.

Bluevitz-rs

06-09-2010, 01:47 PM

*shrug* Now it's gone.

wHy?

metalshark

06-09-2010, 10:14 PM

I did header wrap on my e-bay stainless header two years ago and cut under hood temps. Pick up stainless steel tie-wraps from Harbor Freight to hold the insulation on your header. My critics predicted I'd burn through the header by now but it hasn't happened (yet).

birdman

08-11-2010, 05:27 AM

Texas. That explains it.

ricepower

05-09-2011, 04:53 PM

best DIY for summer season

hayden

05-15-2011, 07:01 AM

I did this mod recently and I can't say I really notice a difference. It might be cooler but if someone did this mod and didn't tell me I doubt I would ever notice.

marcus

05-15-2011, 10:33 AM

this will keep me busy for a bit get my mind off other upgrade...cool..i meant that literally...lol

swidd

05-15-2011, 11:39 AM

I've now had this mod for a year; a/c blows very cold, and begins blowing cold air almost instantly, much faster than without this mod. I had it on during winter, didn't run the a/c, but had no problems with air box freezing or anything like that. The tube wrapped in the heat resistant duck tape is holding up very well; no melting marks or dis-colorization.

Strong recommend!!

mazilla

05-15-2011, 01:55 PM

Well, since I'm off to home depot right now anyways I'm going to look at into this mod. If I do it I'll wrap the insulation in aluminum tape...

devinlamothe

05-20-2011, 04:43 PM

Just reporting that I've done this and it does make a difference. The A/C feels a lot cooler and gets cool a lot quicker than before.

My g/f doesn't like it though she gets too cold now lol.

jonathankoji

06-07-2011, 02:43 AM

Just finished doing mine tonight actually

Got most of the line. Tried using this stuff (http://images.lowes.com/product/077578/077578023175.jpg) and it was horrible

So I ended up using the 97cent foam ones + metal tape.

Betrivent

06-07-2011, 10:08 PM

I just wrapped mine. What I thought was a 1 man, 5 minute job tuned into a 2 man, 15 minute job. I used 1/2 in. wrap instead, it fit nicely when it was straight, but at the bends it was a pain. Some of the bends aren't fully wrapped, I couldn't get it all the way around. C'est le vie.

EDIT: And yes, JUST in time for summer!

p123456789

06-19-2011, 06:57 PM

Am I the only one who thinks the yaris a/c works very well even down here the florida humidity?

Black_griffin6

06-23-2011, 09:52 PM

Hey guys, I just bought the stuff to do this with.

I got the insulation and the zip-ties, and now I need to get the tape to reflect the heat.

I've got a few concerns though...
What if moisture gets under the insulation? The pipe won't rust will it? I'm rather worried about the long-term affects.

I'll give it a whirl anyway seeing as how nobody has said anything bad about it. :biggrin:

poorsh2

10-15-2011, 02:29 PM

I put the insulation on with ss "zip ties" you can get them at harbor freight

Em_

06-29-2012, 08:02 PM

i tried it and it melted , it's a fire hazard from my point of view even with reflecting tape,
if the car burns the insurance won't cover
the only solution would be exhaust insulating fabric

teddy

07-01-2012, 12:00 AM

There's definitely more cooling capacity, but at the cost of fuel economy. Before I could barely detect a difference in lugging of the engine with the compressor engaged. But now there's a big AC load on the engine.
Is this true? I can't see how insulating a line would actually affect the load of the compressor. It should simply be reducing the lost cooling in the pipes.

PatrickJohnson

07-01-2012, 10:20 AM

i tried it and it melted , it's a fire hazard from my point of view even with reflecting tape,
if the car burns the insurance won't cover
the only solution would be exhaust insulating fabric

Then you did it wrong. I've had mine on for years now, with no issues.

Bluevitz-rs

07-01-2012, 11:09 AM

i tried it and it melted , it's a fire hazard from my point of view even with reflecting tape,
if the car burns the insurance won't cover
the only solution would be exhaust insulating fabric

here's an example of what not to use and what you should've used...

http://www.thesolarshop.eu/acatalog/Solar_Pipe_Insulation.html

CoryM

07-01-2012, 01:06 PM

Is this true? I can't see how insulating a line would actually affect the load of the compressor. It should simply be reducing the lost cooling in the pipes.

First time seeing this topic. My concern would be that you are removing some of the engineering that was so carefully put into the A/C system. By this I mean that the liquid coming out of the compressor needs to evaporate completely. Some of which is expected to be done in that line (not where you want it, but they probably allow for the loss). If it stays liquid the compressor tries to do the impossible and compress the incompressible (liquid). This would explain the extra load noticed when the a/c is on. Basically the compressor pistons are in mild hydraulic lock (and hating it). Compressor life will be reduced.

Probably less likely in ridiculously hot/arid places where the evaporator will deal with it. But in humid areas, or more sane temperatures, you may run into this.

Cheers.

schume

07-02-2012, 07:15 PM

My concern would be that you are removing some of the engineering that was so carefully put into the A/C system. By this I mean that the liquid coming out of the compressor needs to evaporate completely. Some of which is expected to be done in that line (not where you want it, but they probably allow for the loss). If it stays liquid the compressor tries to do the impossible and compress the incompressible (liquid). You could be right and they might have engineered the A/C system to compensate for the loss due to uninsulated suction lines. I insulated my line and I only use the A/C when it's hot, so I'm sure I'm getting good evaporation. Maybe if I ran the A/C on cold below a certain temperature, I could start having problems.

The accumulator is there to prevent any liquid from reentering the compressor, but I guess we'll wait and see if there are a lot of A/C failures reported in the future :)

CoryM

07-03-2012, 01:35 PM

I only use the A/C when it's hot, so I'm sure I'm getting good evaporation. Maybe if I ran the A/C on cold below a certain temperature, I could start having problems.

Do you have the a/c disabled during defrost?

As I said, I am not certain that you would end up w/ liquid. It's certainly possible, and hearing that guys are noticing more load on the engine makes it seem more probable. :iono:

Cheers.

RedRide

07-05-2012, 07:20 PM

You could be right and they might have engineered the A/C system to compensate for the loss due to uninsulated suction lines. I insulated my line and I only use the A/C when it's hot, so I'm sure I'm getting good evaporation. Maybe if I ran the A/C on cold below a certain temperature, I could start having problems.

The accumulator is there to prevent any liquid from reentering the compressor, but I guess we'll wait and see if there are a lot of A/C failures reported in the future :)

One must consider that the AC sys is designed to work under all extremes of ambient temps.
So, I don't see how adding a bit of insulation to simulate lower ambient temps will be detrimental.

schume

07-07-2012, 06:06 PM

Do you have the a/c disabled during defrost?Oh yeah! I hated that "feature" and was happy to disable it :)

One must consider that the AC sys is designed to work under all extremes of ambient temps.
So, I don't see how adding a bit of insulation to simulate lower ambient temps will be detrimental. I agree and I personally don't think it's a big deal either (or else I wouldn't have done the mod)

swidd

07-11-2012, 04:18 PM

I've had mine insulated for 3 years or something now, and left it on during cold season, and have never restricted my use of A/C when cold outside. No problems at all, and the high temperature resistant tape holds up nicely.

yours_falsely

08-13-2012, 04:50 AM

So now that some time has passed since it's first been tried, what I'm taking from this is that there don't seem to be any long term negative effects. Correct?

PatrickJohnson

08-13-2012, 12:40 PM

I'm at 2 or 3 years, and no problems here.

yarisitis

04-20-2013, 08:17 PM

For those of you who first did this mod in 2009, how's it holding up? Any negative effects on the AC system? Foam melting?

Betrivent

04-20-2013, 08:54 PM

I did this a year or two ago. The insulation right above the exhaust manifold has melted slightly, otherwise it's help up fine. Didn't REALLY notice a big difference though, but every little bit counts!

Alexrahl

04-21-2013, 09:44 AM

I did this on my car. Aluminum taped rated to 300f. Wrapped the low pressure line over pipe insulation. It is definitely colder now.

rningonfumes

08-02-2016, 04:33 AM

Sorry for necroposting.

Can someone entertain some questions?

1.First does anyone have pics from the original post?
2. Has anyone quantified the change? As in a before and after. I realize the OP did it.
So I stuck a meat thermometer in various circumstances. 1. Idle with fan at low. 2. Idle with fan at max (4). 3. 3k RPM fan low. 4. 3k RPM fan max (4).
1. Gave me a reading of 44. 2. Gave me 47. 3. gave me 45. 4. gave me 45. ** I'll do the measurements again tomorrow these are off the top of my head. In all scenarios the fan is set to face and the window vents are closed. Thermometer is in the right center vent. *degrees Fahrenheit.

3.I've been reading a lot here and whatever google pulls up for me. It only gets cold after passing through the expansion valve. Where is the expansion valve in our car?
4. That cold piping that people say they are wrapping, isn't that piping that comes out from the evaporator which is the exit flow back to the compressor?

Here are some pics form a different member who applied insulation. http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28274&highlight=insulating+a%2Fc