Very loud noise from the engine

[Stiv]

Not sure if this is right section but here it goes.

About 10 minutes ago, driving TS as usual, I pushed the pedal to the metal to and some very lout ratteling noise camed from the engine.
I drove for about 2 minutes after that and even accelerating from a full stop in 1st gear gives this noise if i push gass pedal about 50%.
The car still pulls hard as usual in any gear.
My guess is transmission because rev in neutral doesn't give this noise.
But then again the car accelerates, handles and breakes as usual.
The noise is about as loud as the motor at 4000rpm to give you some audiable perspective.
But if i drive it really easy, there is no noise at any gear.
Btw. the car has only about 15000km on it.

What coul'd it be?
Please guys, help in any way you can.
If anything, tell me if i shuld drive it in this condition

Thank you

[AlexNet0]

check your airbox, or aftermarket intake if you have one.

[supmet]

check your airbox, or aftermarket intake if you have one.

That would be my guess. Any other rattles I could think of off hand would hurt performance more than he is noticing.

[AlexNet0]

That would be my guess. Any other rattles I could think of off hand would hurt performance more than he is noticing.

that was my thinking, espicially since he said this: My guess is transmission because rev in neutral doesn't give this noise.means to me that the engine has no load so its not really going to shake anything when revving.

so to me it would be intake or Exhaust heat shield.



FYI to the OP: my short ram (ATM) makes a louder noise than the revving of the engine itself., but only under WOT load around 2-3k RPM

[Stiv]

Well, the thing is that with a quick inspection of the engine bay, I noticed the airbox was shaking in idle (around 700rpm), but then again, the whole motor is shaking and I can't remember if that was the case before.
On the way home about half an hour ago, I pushed the car a little harder after letting it cool down a bit (let's say 2 hours), and the rattle was there, but I had ti press the pedal a lot harder this time.
And yes, the sound is coming from the left side of the engine bay.
Btw. intake is stock. Actually everything is stock except headunit and subwoofer.
I'll check the bolt that holds the intake in the morning.

[AlexNet0]

Well, the thing is that with a quick inspection of the engine bay, I noticed the airbox was shaking in idle (around 700rpm), but then again, the whole motor is shaking and I can't remember if that was the case before.
On the way home about half an hour ago, I pushed the car a little harder after letting it cool down a bit (let's say 2 hours), and the rattle was there, but I had ti press the pedal a lot harder this time.
And yes, the sound is coming from the left side of the engine bay.
Btw. intake is stock. Actually everything is stock except headunit and subwoofer.
I'll check the bolt that holds the intake in the morning.

yeah, check the bolts, and make absolutely sure that the air filter cover is snapped on securely, it can be a b*tch sometimes to get it on correctly.

[1NZYaris1]

It could be the heat sheild on your excuast, worth a look any way.:thumbsup:

[Tamago]

any vibration associated with the noise?

[Stiv]

any vibration associated with the noise?

Well, some yes. I can feel it with my left foot. But it's not that significant. I'll check the airbox now.
Btw. where is that heat shield? Under the car?

[Stiv]

Hm, airbox is in place, firmly connected to the body. Well, it moves a little on that rubber thing around the bolts.
I'll go to the mechanic tomorrow or the day after that and will keep you posted.
Thank you guys for replays.

[Stiv]

Well, I just found out the source of the problem.
The engine holder has broke (maybe this is not the right english term, but that's the rough translational :))
They said I switch gears to rough (or releasing clutch to soon).
But this is TS and she really likes to spin wheels :-D
Also, they ordered the part to replace it and it will come in about 3 days, but they can't replace it for another month. Don't know what's going on, but they have loads of work. Has Toyota gone bad after all this years?

[CtrlAltDefeat]

Well, I just found out the source of the problem.
The engine holder has broke (maybe this is not the right english term, but that's the rough translational :))
They said I switch gears to rough (or releasing clutch to soon).
But this is TS and she really likes to spin wheels :-D
Also, they ordered the part to replace it and it will come in about 3 days, but they can't replace it for another month. Don't know what's going on, but they have loads of work. Has Toyota gone bad after all this years?

By engine holder, I guess you mean the engine mount... Why can't they replace it for a month?? do they have to pull the motor or something? Is the block itself broken? If it is, can you give us a picture? I'd be real interested in seeing it...

[Stiv]

Well, I guess they have a lot of Toyotas coming in for repairs so they can't repair mine for at least 3 weeks.
I can't take a picture right now. Maybe when they take it out.
But the guy told me that it's some kind of hard rubber and it was broken in half almost like someone took a knife and sliced it like a cheese :/
So what now when they repair it? I can't drive it hard from time to time? It's not like I ever went to the track or something. Ufff

[Tamago]

you can change this part with a 14mm wrench i believe.. someone back me up on the size please.

have the dealer give you the part for free and do the job yourself. it should be covered under warranty

[PatrickJohnson]

you can change this part with a 14mm wrench i believe.. someone back me up on the size please.

have the dealer give you the part for free and do the job yourself. it should be covered under warranty

If he changes it himself and it happens again, the warranty won't cover it next time because there was no certified repair done the first time. better to have the dealership change it and avoid the hassles.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

hmmm, mine makes a metallic sound at 2k and 4k rpm while in load. Does not do it in neutral. But my motor mount looks fine???? I don't have an aftermarket intake either. But it did start after I hit the block on the freeway.

[mikenacarato]

they will cover the part under warranty but not the labor.

[PatrickJohnson]

hmmm, mine makes a metallic sound at 2k and 4k rpm while in load. Does not do it in neutral. But my motor mount looks fine???? I don't have an aftermarket intake either. But it did start after I hit the block on the freeway.

check your exhaust

[Kaotic Lazagna]

check your exhaust

Exhaust looks fine too????? I don't mind it as long as it doesn't affect anything.

[Tamago]

If he changes it himself and it happens again, the warranty won't cover it next time because there was no certified repair done the first time. better to have the dealership change it and avoid the hassles.

the damage done over the next three months with a broken dogbone will NOT BE COVERED by warranty.

fix your car.

[Stiv]

So I'm still waiting for a call from the mechanics.
In the meanwhile a thought crossed my mind.
Is there an aftermarket engine mount? Something that will last longer than just 15000 kilometers?
Or any other way to stop this problem from occurring ever again?

[Yaris Hilton]

They said I switch gears to rough (or releasing clutch to soon).
But this is TS and she really likes to spin wheels :-D

Don't pop the clutch anymore.

[PatrickJohnson]

So I'm still waiting for a call from the mechanics.
In the meanwhile a thought crossed my mind.
Is there an aftermarket engine mount? Something that will last longer than just 15000 kilometers?
Or any other way to stop this problem from occurring ever again?

I don't think this is really necessary, it could have just been a defective part. Engine mounts are not commonly broken that soon even under crazy heavy driving and aggressiveness.

[Stiv]

Well, I just talked with two of my friends. One droves Mazda 6 (and he was also semi professional race driver), the other one Clio Sport 182. They both tell me that it's just the matter of time before i broke engine mount again. To make things worse, they say that's completely normal on small forward wheel cars with strong(er) engines.
WTF? I don't want a car that can lose it's engine on a road-trip or something.
Having that of my mind I wondered if this would help http://shop.microimageonline.com/product.sc?productId=13&categoryId=2
What do you think?

[supmet]

To make things worse, they say that's completely normal on small forward wheel cars with strong(er) engines.

I'd be a little scared to listen to anyone's car advice who thinks a 1.8 putting out 130 is a strong engine.

[Cicero]

imaš još problema sa yarisom? Možda bi moj prijatelj koji radi na toyoti mogao pomagati.Pozdrav iz slovenije

[TheSilkySmooth]

I'd be a little scared to listen to anyone's car advice who thinks a 1.8 putting out 130 is a strong engine. Talkin Factory stock motor - not tuner turbo NOS bullcrap. Its a strong engine - anything over 70hp/L is high performance. In the 70's our 2.3L and 2L only made about 75Hp and top speed was around 80MPH. If I did a couple drag strip drop clutch starts at 4500 rpm on my 1.5 I would snap a halfshaft after about 3 tries guaranteed. 90's VTEC Acura integra would be stronger yes, but 130 hp is still stout for a regular car. No such problems on my Suzuki Aerio SX drivetrain.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Don't pop the clutch anymore.
Patient#1- "Doc, when I do THIS, it hurts!
doctor -"Dont do that!

hilton, you are a spoil sport! Kid gotta break the cars - after a while they learn. Sometimes it the $$$ outlay, othertimes its the telephone pole :smile: