Sunpro Sport ST air/fuel ratio gauge

[rkvin21]

Well i'm eventually going to get a turbo in my yaris but money is tight and i have to buy everything piece by piece so I decided to start with the gauges. I just bought a sunpro Sport ST air/fuel ratio gauge from autozone. I know I could have gotten it cheaper online somewhere but it was kind of a spur of the moment kind of thing for 39.99. I also got a 3 gauge mount to go on the A frame. Tomorrow I will try to do the install and take pics as well. The instructions kind of suck so it will be interesting. When looking under the hood I noticed that my ground wire for my negative terminal is attached to the chassis. Isn't it supposed do be attached to a ground on the engine block? anyways here are some pics:

http://thugisland.com/yarispics/parts.jpg

http://thugisland.com/yarispics/gauge.jpg

http://thugisland.com/yarispics/mount3.JPG

http://thugisland.com/yarispics/mount1.jpg

http://thugisland.com/yarispics/mount2.jpg

here is a link to the manual:
http://www.sunpro.com/publish/2007/09/27/pdf_english_16429.pdf

If and when I run into trouble i'll be here asking for help lol. I will take pics during the install of course :biggrin:

[PatrickJohnson]

grounding on chassis is no different than grounding on the block. You just need a heavily conductive point that is not positively charged.

[rkvin21]

well turns out I'm at a stand still :frown:. So far I have managed to figure out where/what wires to tap into( I hope!) but now I don't know where to drill a whole into the firewall I took off the dash to make things easier but on the opposite side in the engine bay there is plastic. Do I drill through the firewall and the plastic? Is there an easier way? well here are some more pics of my progress and where I believe I should tap into. Also I bought an add-a-circuit to use for one of my wires. If you do this make sure you buy the right amps and not the normal ones that are already in your car.

This is where I will put the ground:
http://thugisland.com/yarispics/ground1.JPG

These are the bolts on the airbag that keep the dash from coming off:
http://thugisland.com/yarispics/boltsforairbag.jpg

Somewhere here I will drill the hole in the firewall, but where???:
http://thugisland.com/yarispics/firewall.jpg

The arrow shows which wire I will tap into( is this correct/fine?):
http://thugisland.com/yarispics/headlighttapbefore.jpg

The dash removed:
http://thugisland.com/yarispics/dashremoved.jpg

The arrow shows where I will tap into the o2 after the connector(This is the signal wire right?):
http://thugisland.com/yarispics/o2connectorwires.jpg

The cluster cover is removed to reach the 2 screws that help hold down the dash:
http://thugisland.com/yarispics/clustercoveroff.jpg

[CTScott]

On the Air Fuel Ratio Sensor connection, I would think that you'd want A1A+, which is the purple wire, rather than A1A-, which is the light green wire.

Also, instead of drilling the firewall, go through the giant grommet on the drivers side, which comes out right behind the battery.

[rkvin21]

you mean this??

http://thugisland.com/yarispics/grommet.jpg

do I just try and feed the wires through it or is there more to it??

also thanks for the correction on the o2 sensor wire. I was hoping you would chime in :biggrin:

[CTScott]

That's the one. You can poke a small hole and feed the wires through.

[rkvin21]

ok i need some major help. I finally got the afr gauge hooked up before dark. I was going to go for a test spin to see how it works. When I turned on my headlights the dash went dark. What is wrong??? I only tapped into the headlights, o2 sensor purple wire and plugged in the add-a-fuse in the fuse box. oh also the ground too. I plugged back in the 2 connections for the cluster. please help!!!! everything else seems to work just fine

[rkvin21]

hahahahahahaha :bellyroll::bellyroll::bellyroll: false alarm I just realized that I had the dimmer switch all the way up which turned off the dash. *hits self in the head* well I will post pics of the install tomorrow

[rkvin21]

Well I just went 25 miles with the gauge reading completely rich (1.0V). I'm going to take a guess that maybe I should have tapped into green wire instead. I am looking for the signal wire. I think i'm tapped into the heater power wire. Any ideas?

[rkvin21]

Ok so I decided to switch to the green wire and travel home another 25 more miles with the same result. So now there are only 2 wires left. Weird thing is that I left the o2 wire untapped and when I turned it on it showed rich still. You would think that it would show lean(0.0V). So can anybody figure out what my problem is? The blue light is starting to get annoying. Probably intentional lol

[CTScott]

The dark green is the heater power, black is ground, purple is the + connection of the sensor and light green is the - connection to the sensor.

[CTScott]

Hang on, I don't think you can tap the AFR sensor with that Sunpro gauge, but instead need to tap the secondary O2 sensor. The Sunpro needs to see the raw 0 to 1V output and can't deal with the ECM's float voltage. According to the service manual, the ECM floats 3V on that sensor's output, so you will always see 3.0V on the light green and ~3.3V on the purple.


The secondary O2 Sensor is the one between the two cats. Its output is is a 0 to 1V waveform, without a float voltage. The output (OX1B) is the white wire on the sensor.

[rkvin21]

Where is the connector?? I found the sensor and can't follow it cuz it goes into the chassis and disappears.

[CTScott]

It comes into the cabin floor below the AC controls.

[rkvin21]

Is it just 2 wires, white and blue?

[CTScott]

4 wires - white (the one you need to tap), black, green, and gray

[rkvin21]

Well I found it ( i think) it still reads rich (1.0V). What is going on??? this is where I found/taped it:

http://thugisland.com/yarispics/2o2sensor.jpg

http://thugisland.com/yarispics/2o2sensortap.jpg

[CTScott]

If you have a meter, measure the voltage from the white wire to chassis ground and then from the white to the gray wire. According to the service manual, OX1B (white) to EX1B (gray) will output the 0 to 1 Volt waveform. The question is if EX1B is at ground, since the sunpro uses a single wire for its power ground and the sensor ground.

[ChinoCharles]

Correct me if I'm wrong people, but isn't this the wrong type of A/F gauge for a potential turbo car? Its narrowband and he needs a wideband? OR does he just need a wideband sensor and he can wire this to it?

Not trying to burst your bubble buddy, just trying to help. :frown:

[CTScott]

The OEM sensors are definitely narrow band. The gauge only supports narrow band sensors as well.

[rkvin21]

well turns out that the quick connect tap didn't pinch the white wire. It works now yay!!!! only problem now is that the wires are no longer long enough to fit in the gauge cluster :frown:. Now I got to cut those wires, buy some more and splice them back together for the correct length. Should I use the same gauge(18ga i think)) or can I go bigger?

[rkvin21]

yes I know I will need a wideband sensor when I have a turbo but for now I want to know in general where the car should be. Since it will probably be several months, more than likely a year, before I get enough money for a turbo I can see spending $40 to learn where the car should be and how it acts before spending around $230 on the good stuff. Thank you for your concern ChinoCharles

[CASTREX]

Do you realize that the information that this gauge will give you is prety much useless...:iono:

I would try to get my money back and get a a boos, oil presure or water temp guage instead. All of them will be useful later on.

A narrow band AF gauge that it doesn't even give you the data in a digital format has no benefit at all... it won't tell you where the car should be and won't tell you how the car reacts. Only a true wideband can do that.

[rkvin21]

My next gauge will be an oil pressure gauge but I think that a boost gauge before you have a turbo would be a little tacky don't you think lol. Don't worry I will get a wideband eventually. Put it this way, I gained valuable experience working with the wiring and learned wear my sensors are while having something to look at with pretty lights for awhile :biggrin: Also I can probably take apart my dash in like 2 minutes now that I have had it on and off so many times:thumbsup:

[CTScott]

well turns out that the quick connect tap didn't pinch the white wire. It works now yay!!!! only problem now is that the wires are no longer long enough to fit in the gauge cluster :frown:. Now I got to cut those wires, buy some more and splice them back together for the correct length. Should I use the same gauge(18ga i think)) or can I go bigger?

The same size or larger is fine.

[Tamago]

yes I know I will need a wideband sensor when I have a turbo but for now I want to know in general where the car should be. Since it will probably be several months, more than likely a year, before I get enough money for a turbo I can see spending $40 to learn where the car should be and how it acts before spending around $230 on the good stuff. Thank you for your concern ChinoCharles

where your car should be is 14.7:1

where your car should be on boost is between 11.1:1 and 12:1 depending on boost levels.

there, free advice ;)

[rkvin21]

Thanks for not charging :biggrin:

[Tamago]

Thanks for not charging :biggrin:

gots to be helpful somehow!