How to diy ac belt

[JOHNTIFF11]

My belt is screaming when ac is turned on. I was told it needs to be replaced but not going to pay 120 dollars when i bought the belt for 15. Just need some guide on how to replace it. pics would be a big help also. Thanks for time and any help you can give.

[rkvin21]

If I remember correctly all you should need to do is loosen the bolt on the top of the alternator and push forward. It should just slide off after that. If anybody wishes to add or correct me please do. It's been awhile :biggrin:. Also you should mark where the bolt was so that you can tighten it back to where it was. I just went outside and took a picture for you.

http://thugisland.com/yarispics/alternator.jpg

You'll notice the red marker on mine that the dealership drew showing where it was when they got it when my power steering wasn't working. They tried to blame that as the problem but it turned out to be a failed unit(forgot what it was called) near the battery terminal. So make sure you make it tight enough so the dealership won't try and blame you for a problem if you bring it in. FYI and a mechanic was the last person to touch my alt not me :tongue:

[devinlamothe]

Do you need any special tools? IE: belt tension gauge or something? I know there must be some specification to how tight it must be.

[Morgan]

no should just be loosen that bolt (pointed to with red arrow in pic above) and get something like a crow bar/handle to the floor jack and leverage it against the engine and push the alternator out/towards the bumper to increase tension OR you can hit the top of the alternator with a hammer til its in the right place... sometimes these things A LOT of force, can't really hurt it by whacking it

[Shroomster]

no should just be loosen that bolt (pointed to with red arrow in pic above) and get something like a crow bar/handle to the floor jack and leverage it against the engine and push the alternator out/towards the bumper to increase tension OR you can hit the top of the alternator with a hammer til its in the right place... sometimes these things A LOT of force, can't really hurt it by whacking it

maybe use a rubber hammer or dead blow mallet as the alt housing is aluminum? hehe

[Morgan]

Sure! To get mine to move I also loosened the bolt underneath the alternator and sprayed everything with pb blaster

[JOHNTIFF11]

I loosened that bolt in the pic above and tried moving it and it wouldnt budge. The other bolt you referred to as loosing also where would that be located, there are several bolts that i can see looking down? Did you use something to move that might work better than the backside of a hammer? THanks for all the replies above. Just need a little more help to get this completed.

[CTScott]

I loosened that bolt in the pic above and tried moving it and it wouldnt budge. The other bolt you referred to as loosing also where would that be located, there are several bolts that i can see looking down? Did you use something to move that might work better than the backside of a hammer? THanks for all the replies above. Just need a little more help to get this completed.

The second bolt is on the bottom of the alternator. Loosen it and the one above and you can easily pivot the alternator (on the bottom bolt). No need for whacking. After you get the new belt on, just use a bar or hammer handle to hold tension on the belt, while you tighten the top bolt, then tighten the bottom.

The belt deflection spec is 7 to 8.5 mm for a new belt and 11 to 13, once the belt has been run.


27047

[Marthos]

You just bought this belt, it sounds to me like you just need it tightened up some.

Is this the same place that sold ya the new belt???

Go to different shop and ask them to tighten the belt, DO NOT ask them to check the belt, if you need a new belt they will say so, if you dont they will tighten yours.

If you go in a shop and ask them to check the belt, they are going to sell you a belt.

These belts should be good for a long time, if it has been slipping a long time it might be bad.

Bad belts have cracks and/or missing pieces and/or lots of glazing (belt is shiny).

[Marthos]

NM miss read the OP.

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

no should just be loosen that bolt (pointed to with red arrow in pic above) and get something like a crow bar/handle to the floor jack and leverage it against the engine and push the alternator out/towards the bumper to increase tension OR you can hit the top of the alternator with a hammer til its in the right place... sometimes these things A LOT of force, can't really hurt it by whacking it

Sorry, this is terrible advice. You most certainly CAN hurt an alternator by hammering it. Someone elsewhere said a replacement alternator cost them $700+!

As pointed out elsewhere, you have to loosen the base bolt(s) as well as the adjusting bolt on top - the alternator can easily be moved by hand then. Tighten to specs, then tighten the top bolt, then the base bolt(s).

[DerFlosser]

Sorry, this is terrible advice. You most certainly CAN hurt an alternator by hammering it. Someone elsewhere said a replacement alternator cost them $700+!

As pointed out elsewhere, you have to loosen the base bolt(s) as well as the adjusting bolt on top - the alternator can easily be moved by hand then. Tighten to specs, then tighten the top bolt, then the base bolt(s).

Yep........agreed and thanks Scott for the schematic. That's some of the most idiotic advice I have heard.....you can't hurt and alternator by hammering it?????? -- Sweet Jesus. Please stop working on your own car. :eyebulge:

[Shroomster]

THE LAST TWO POSTS (AND THIS ONE) NEED TO BE DELETED BEFORE THIS THREAD GETS TURNED INTO A FLAME WAR. I don't think they add anything to the topic at hand, just negativity.


I already stated that it would be wise to use a rubber mallet (if the alt) is stubborn.

PLUS Morgan did a retrofit charger on her car so please do not attack her mechanical prowess.

[devinlamothe]

How can you gauge the belt deflection spec? Is there a tool?

[CTScott]

There are tools called belt tension gauges. They are either generic ones that measure torque in ft lbs or in lbs or they are manufacturer specific ones. The mfg specific ones are calibrated for a specific amount of force. You press the spring loaded gauge against the belt and read the scale.

I personally don't own one. For something like the spec above, I press against the center of the belt span with one finger and look for about that much deflection.

[1stToyota]

THE LAST TWO POSTS (AND THIS ONE) NEED TO BE DELETED BEFORE THIS THREAD GETS TURNED INTO A FLAME WAR. I don't think they add anything to the topic at hand, just negativity.


I already stated that it would be wise to use a rubber mallet (if the alt) is stubborn.

PLUS Morgan did a retrofit charger on her car so please do not attack her mechanical prowess.

They don't need to be deleted. Whacking an aluminum housing with a hammer, stating that it can't be hurt is just wrong. If you want to see negativity and flamming, wait for someone to come to this thread with an alternator with a cracked housing because they followed bad advice..

[JOHNTIFF11]

I apprecitate the pick CTscott. I got a wrench on it and tried to loosen it and the bolt will not move. I put a lot of force on it with no luck. i sprayed some stuff on it to hopefully free it up at little. Just to ask its not reverse threaded right? I hardly doubt it is but you never know. I just dont want to break the bolt head off. Thanks again for the people that are giving the good advice and help.

[CTScott]

I apprecitate the pick CTscott. I got a wrench on it and tried to loosen it and the bolt will not move. I put a lot of force on it with no luck. i sprayed some stuff on it to hopefully free it up at little. Just to ask its not reverse threaded right? I hardly doubt it is but you never know. I just dont want to break the bolt head off. Thanks again for the people that are giving the good advice and help.

Normal thread. I think the guy that torques that bolt at the factory sumo wrestles on the weekends.

[Sir A.Y. Atoyot]

THE LAST TWO POSTS (AND THIS ONE) NEED TO BE DELETED BEFORE THIS THREAD GETS TURNED INTO A FLAME WAR. I don't think they add anything to the topic at hand, just negativity.


I already stated that it would be wise to use a rubber mallet (if the alt) is stubborn.

PLUS Morgan did a retrofit charger on her car so please do not attack her mechanical prowess.
Why do you want to delete my post? I just said that hammering on an alternator was a very bad idea, potentially disastrous financially. I said it politely, not in a flameworthy manner. If terrible advice is left unchallenged, some inexperienced people might take it seriously.

Here's another bit of free advice (I spent years working as an auto electric mechanic, so I've tightened a lot of alternators.) When you're prying on an alternator to adjust the belt tension, make sure that your pry bar only contacts the front housing, which is thick and strong enough to take it. Putting a lot of force on a rear housing can very easily crack it, or even shatter it.

[DerFlosser]

Another good point noted above.

BTW...why does putting a supercharger on a 4cyl car automatically mean that you actually know something or use common sense for that matter?

[devinlamothe]

There are tools called belt tension gauges. They are either generic ones that measure torque in ft lbs or in lbs or they are manufacturer specific ones. The mfg specific ones are calibrated for a specific amount of force. You press the spring loaded gauge against the belt and read the scale.

I personally don't own one. For something like the spec above, I press against the center of the belt span with one finger and look for about that much deflection.

Sweet thanks for the info. Further to this, I went to my local PartSource and asked if they had any belt tension gauges, and the guy there looked at me like I was an alien and told me there was no such thing.

I'll try the finger press thing and see. :tongue:

[KSIbucky]

Where can I find the Serpentine Belt Routing Diagram?

[CTScott]

Where can I find the Serpentine Belt Routing Diagram?

39033

[kdogg]

Any guidance on this issue would be appreciated. I have spent two hours trying to loosen the bolt at the bottom of the alternator to no avail. I have tried some pb blaster as well. I have nothing to show for my effort except sore hands. Does anyone know the trick to getting this bolt loose? The space is really awkward to get good torque so I tried a universal extension, but am still having no luck. The replacement belt only cost me $11 but paying someone else to replace it is starting to look pretty good.

[Altitude]

^^ Do you have a breaker bar?

[Klink10]

It will come loose. Initially I had to use a 1/2 " drive and move the ac line bracket. Now a 3/8 inch drive gets it.

[eridanx]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2678/4059944352_37d4c5f395_o.gif

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2454/4059944388_b52447aa18_o.gif

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2684/4059200639_17412c6bd6_o.gif

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2443/4059944424_4c3d82726c_o.gif

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3477/4059200669_6df5c687ce_o.gif

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/4059200677_316db72433_o.gif
:smile:

[bankrobber]

What size socket is the bottom bolt? 14 seems like it is slightly loose. I cant find my 5/8 socket to try. Also have a problem getting a 1/2 inch drive ratchet in there and being so tight I dont think 3/8 ratchet will break it loose.
Any advice on breaking it loose? I wish I had air ratchet to use.

[CTScott]

What size socket is the bottom bolt? 14 seems like it is slightly loose. I cant find my 5/8 socket to try. Also have a problem getting a 1/2 inch drive ratchet in there and being so tight I dont think 3/8 ratchet will break it loose.
Any advice on breaking it loose? I wish I had air ratchet to use.

It's definitely 14mm, as I had mine off last weekend to install my supercharger. I used a 3/8" ratchet with a piece of pipe on the handle for more leverage.

[bankrobber]

Thanks gonna go give it a try. Got 114K miles on my 2007 and belt looking tired.

[bankrobber]

Done. Very simple job. Not as easy as my Dodge Ram. Kinda a PITA with a sideways engine. Think I got the tension good. Just a FIY found the same belt on Amazon for 11 dollars after I already bought one from Autozone for 20 w/tax with 3 year warranty

[othater]

Whats the recommended belt brand and best place to buy it.
Thanks

[bankrobber]

In the South I buy from AutoZone. They always honor the lifetime warranty with no reciepts. Napa or PepBoys is a good place to buy also.
Use Part Number: 5040465 Dayco Brand

[Kiteless]

I think this is done and gone, but I just wanted to say that I recently did this to my Egg. She has about 90K on her and needed a new belt. The bottom bolt is on there REEEEALLY good. I had to use a socket wrench and put a tube on the end to extend the fulcrum and had to make sure the socket I was using was the exact right size.

[othater]

In the South I buy from AutoZone. They always honor the lifetime warranty with no reciepts. Napa or PepBoys is a good place to buy also.
Use Part Number: 5040465 Dayco Brand

Thanks Bankrobber for the reply, I will go with Autozone with the 3 year warranty.

[othater]

I replaced the belt going on 6 months.
Had to tighten the belt at least 5 times due to screeching.
Seems like the belt stretches a little every time.
(I marked the original location of the bolt)
Belt looks good, maybe this Dayco is just cheap or defective.
Probably will see if I can return it under warranty.

Are the gates any better or just go get the OEM from the dealer (on-line)?

Can someone tell me what the actual torque for the two bolts are?
Thanks

[othater]

Got a replacement serpentine belt.
Still a Dayco but a better quality one. Store would only give me credit for the same brand.
Originally went with the part number above. Didn't know they came in different grades.
So far so good.
Sure was easier the second time replacing.

[Illryion]

Just used this guide - thanks all. Easy Peasy.

[DARKSCOPE001]

I think this is done and gone, but I just wanted to say that I recently did this to my Egg. She has about 90K on her and needed a new belt. The bottom bolt is on there REEEEALLY good. I had to use a socket wrench and put a tube on the end to extend the fulcrum and had to make sure the socket I was using was the exact right size.

heat, time, patients and penetrating oil is your friend lol. :biggrin: im sure you already knew that. But I cant stress enough. Soak those stuborn bolts with penetrating oil. Heat is always good, Taps with a hammer. And time. Always time. Soak them go eat a sandwich. Come back and soak again. hell soak 3 times a day for a week. That bolt didnt become stuck overnight so its not giving up the battle in a minute. Also try different kinds of penetrating oils. I find that some work better in one case and others work better in another. Also get some Kroil or aerokroil it will make pb look like water.

Best Luck.
Sean Scott

[the rev]

So, first off, thanks for the great guide!

Second, a word of caution to those who wish to undertake this:
You need to oil the crap out of the bottom bolt, several times, and let it sit BEFORE endeavoring to remove it! They apparently make these bolt heads out of pudding (on the 2010 anyway), and it will round right off with little effort. Oil it (from the backside) and let it sit.

Happy motoring!

[Toolaholic]

To loosen and tighten lower alternator bolt from the top w/o removing a/c line brackets use a slim head 3/8 ratchet(I used a armstrong 10-994), 3/8 to 1/4 adapter(this is right length to clear front of alternator that sticks out over bolt) and a quality 1/4 drive 14mm six point socket( I used a craftsman USA 1st time and a proto the second time{fit tighter than craftsman}).A gearwrench 3/8 torque wrench fits w/ the 3/8 to 1/4 adapter and 1/4 drive socket. It's still tight w/ a/c brackets left on. You must tilt ratchet/ext/socket at a 45 degree angle and slip over 14mm bolt. Getting socket on bolt straight on doesn't work cause of a /c bracket being on the way. You can also loosen and tighten lower bolt from the front w/ a flex head ratchet flexed to the right( looking from front of car ). I pryed w/ a gearwrench 16" prybar. If you pry from top be careful prybar wants to slip in alternator vent holes. You can pry from the side w/ the gearwrench ( you must adjust flex head accordingly ). Hope this helps.

[E46]

I've been trying to replace the belt on my wife's Yaris. Soaked the lower alternator bolt with penetrating oil every other day for more than 2 weeks, then used a steel pipe over my socket wrench to get more leverage. Felt the thing give way and my wrench dropped to the bottom of the engine bay. Picked it up and saw that the wrench broke at the socket connector....

[tigerpaw]

I believe the factory uses threadlocker on the 14 mm bottom bolt. Heat up the bolt with a BBQ long lighter and use a pipe over the ratchet handle. If it's still stubborn try to tighten the bolt . You just need it to budge a tiny bit then you've got it. Worked for me! Also the factory belt is a Bando brand 4PK1180 for vehicles with air conditioner. Paid about 6 bucks at Rock Auto.

[toyotavios_11]

the space is very compact and it is hard for you to insert bigger ratchet. what you need it a piece of pipe on the handle on small ratchet

[tigerpaw]

othater, torque value for the 12mm top bolt is 14 ft.lbs
For the 14mm bottom bolt it is 40 ft.lbs. New belt deflection is 7.0 mm- 8.5 mm.

[mirageman]

I just posted in another thread about losing my belt on the Garden State Parkway, seeing the red overheating coolant light (it is a pretty red, though, LOL) and the subsequent sleeping at an Autozone Parking lot until they opened and using their tools. It is not an easy job. I stripped the bottom bolt because I used the wrong socket. Don't use the wrong socket. I ended up loosening only the top bolt and hitting my aluminum alternator right at a thick part of it with this long metal rod I keep in my car for emergencies...... Yes it is bad to subject your alternator to such forces and I know it was wrong to do so but I really didn't hit it that hard and it moved little by little. I was able move the alternator back despite that lower bolt being super tight. I was also able to use my bar as a crowbar to tighten the alternator, wedging it between the engine and the body of the alternator and pulling the alternator out to tighten the belt. No tool to measure belt deflection, just a push of a finger to make sure it is pretty snug is good enough. If it doesn't squeal on startup, you're ok. After 100 miles, a retightening was required, but none since then. This was Autozone's better belt that cost like 2 bucks more than the valuecraft and comes with a year or 3 year warrantee.