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Parmas
08-05-2009, 09:01 PM
I am considering to finally make a total tuneup to the engine on dyno. Here the tuners do not know much about the 1NZFE engine so I ask here what is the max safe rev limit to the engine?

(Remember that I am standalone )

lilredrocket
08-05-2009, 11:20 PM
I know that stock is 6500 rpm's. Gram is setting his at 7000 rpm's I bellieve. So I guess somewhere around there would be good.

thebarber
08-05-2009, 11:45 PM
there is a fuel cut around 6500rpm normally, but i wouldnt try going too much higher than that....maybe 6800....

lilredrocket
08-06-2009, 01:40 AM
Hes on a standalone he has probably changed all that or will when he decides on a red line

Parmas
08-06-2009, 03:10 PM
What can you comment about this GARM?

Bluevitz-rs
01-08-2010, 11:37 AM
I know from experience that the motor will not spin to 8600 due to a missed shift. Somehow went to 2nd from the top of 3rd instead of 4th.

The motor survived but had 3 mushroomed valves.

YarisPR
01-08-2010, 12:43 PM
I know from experience that the motor will not spin to 8600 due to a missed shift. Somehow went to 2nd from the top of 3rd instead of 4th.

The motor survived but had 3 mushroomed valves.

I've seen like 5 of my friends miss-shift from 3rd to 2nd... thats why I granny-shift 3rd-4th :laugh:

cali yaris
01-08-2010, 12:49 PM
My head is ported and polished, but otherwise stock, no work to the cams or valves. My redline is set at 7200.

When you tune, just look for the power band, that will determine your redline. Higher is not always better. On my tC, it quits making power at 5800, so there's no need to set a super high redline on it.

thebarber
01-08-2010, 01:05 PM
My head is ported and polished, but otherwise stock, no work to the cams or valves. My redline is set at 7200.

When you tune, just look for the power band, that will determine your redline. Higher is not always better. On my tC, it quits making power at 5800, so there's no need to set a super high redline on it.

thats true

with intake and res-back exhaust, im past peak whp with stock redline...

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b339/dabarber/yaris/dyno/thebarberdynosheet02.jpg

cdydjded
01-08-2010, 05:53 PM
My head is ported and polished, but otherwise stock, no work to the cams or valves. My redline is set at 7200.

When you tune, just look for the power band, that will determine your redline. Higher is not always better. On my tC, it quits making power at 5800, so there's no need to set a super high redline on it.

Porting and polishing you head does not change your max redline. Based upon your dyno sheet & the barber's dyno sheet our engines make max HP @ 6000rpm and start to loose power beyond 6500rpm. The reason is the camshaft specs specifically duration. IMO you do not need to be anywhere near 7200rpm. IMO 6500rpm should be you redline.

cdydjded
01-08-2010, 05:54 PM
I am considering to finally make a total tuneup to the engine on dyno. Here the tuners do not know much about the 1NZFE engine so I ask here what is the max safe rev limit to the engine?

(Remember that I am standalone and boosted 16psi till now :)

6000RPM-6500RPM max

cali yaris
01-08-2010, 06:20 PM
Porting and polishing you head does not change your max redline.

right. my point was that i have NOT modified my cams or valves, and that the car doesn't make power past 6500.

cdydjded
01-08-2010, 06:26 PM
right. my point was that i have NOT modified my cams or valves, and that the car doesn't make power past 6500.

No problem, just was making sure that people dont confused :smile:

Parmas
01-09-2010, 02:17 PM
Porting and polishing you head does not change your max redline. Based upon your dyno sheet & the barber's dyno sheet our engines make max HP @ 6000rpm and start to loose power beyond 6500rpm. The reason is the camshaft specs specifically duration. IMO you do not need to be anywhere near 7200rpm. IMO 6500rpm should be you redline.

What if one own the Gude head? :biggrin:

cali yaris
01-09-2010, 03:49 PM
Ask Gude?

cdydjded
01-09-2010, 04:46 PM
What if one own the Gude head? :biggrin:

What was done to the head? Cams? Springs? Valves?

Giupo
02-09-2010, 09:28 PM
these are the oem camshafts value :

Engine: 1NZ-FE
Valve Timing

>Intake<
Open -7° ~ 33° BTDC
Close 52° ~ 12° ABDC
-----------------------
>Exhaust<
Open 42° BBDC
Close 2° ATDC

Intake durations : 225°
Exaust durations : 224°

cali yaris
02-10-2010, 12:17 AM
The point remains the same. It's wherever the car stops making power. I can't imagine a build on the 1NZ that would require 8k or 9k rpms, so the question doesn't hold much relevance for me.

besides camshafts, you better have springs and some other head work done to access higher rpms safely.

Parmas
02-10-2010, 08:58 AM
The point remains the same. It's wherever the car stops making power. I can't imagine a build on the 1NZ that would require 8k or 9k rpms, so the question doesn't hold much relevance for me.

besides camshafts, you better have springs and some other head work done to access higher rpms safely.

Could you share your opinion what do you mean by better springs? or else what springs do you recommend :wub:

cali yaris
02-10-2010, 12:47 PM
better springs = stronger or "high pressure" springs

I don't have a recommendation, I have stock springs and I'm happy with my results so far. I see no need right now for higher revs - the car doesn't make more power up there.

Parmas
02-10-2010, 06:27 PM
better springs = stronger or "high pressure" springs

I don't have a recommendation, I have stock springs and I'm happy with my results so far. I see no need right now for higher revs - the car doesn't make more power up there.

In the microimage forums you mentioned in your thread (on last page 7) that art used stronger springs. Are you sure they are stock?

cali yaris
02-10-2010, 06:52 PM
yep, they are stock. I was wrong. :(

thebarber
02-10-2010, 08:02 PM
even richard holdener's setup peaked around 6000rpm

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b339/dabarber/yaris/1nzfewithbolt-onsvsstock1nzfe.jpg

Bluevitz-rs
02-10-2010, 10:12 PM
better springs = stronger or "high pressure" springs

I don't have a recommendation, I have stock springs and I'm happy with my results so far. I see no need right now for higher revs - the car doesn't make more power up there.

I can almost guarantee that you're starting to float the valves past 6000 RPM. With 20 psi of boost pushing them open, plus the high revs and the fact that they are pretty soft to start with.

Parmas
02-11-2010, 06:41 AM
I can say that many owners who built a 1NZFE focused more on the bottom end (pistons and rods) which it's the right thing... but when planning beyond certain power and boost you can't leave a stock head pure and plain!

What about a Top End build? Is there a secret for the ultimate powerband of a 1NZFE?

cali yaris
02-11-2010, 02:47 PM
it's no secret. port and polish, then work on valves, then work on cams. Cams are tricky with VVT-I though, in my experience.

rob323
02-11-2010, 08:21 PM
What about a Top End build? Is there a secret for the ultimate powerband of a 1NZFE?
Basically, the camshaft that you run depends where the power band will be in the rev range.
Ideally, you choose your camshaft based on the intended purpose of the vehicle and where abouts you want the power band to be in the rev range, then select valve springs (and sometimes valves) to suit, and then size your turbo, intake, exhaust and intercooling system accordingly.

In theory, the design of the 1NZFE does not suit really high revs due to the bore to stroke ratio.

If using stock cams, then the factory redline (or slightly higher if it helps with your gear change points) will suffice.