New Boom.

[The Architect]

Got bored and changed things up a bit. I still do have a good bit of trunk space all things considered.

Three brand new Type R's, so far Im impressed with their performance seeing as how they're pretty underpowered.

Box is triple ported @ 1.6cuft per chamber. I had a guy in NE build it, it came out very very nice.

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q29/thenixonyouth/P1030112copy.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q29/thenixonyouth/P1030116copy.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q29/thenixonyouth/P1030114copy.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q29/thenixonyouth/P1030113copy.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q29/thenixonyouth/P1030110copy.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q29/thenixonyouth/P1030109copy.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q29/thenixonyouth/P1030108copy.jpg

[talnlnky]

I still think the RE was the best quality sub you've had yet..... I don't fully understand why you keep changing things up.....especially on your sub stage.

[The Architect]

Yea the RE's were very nice but they were just too pwer hungry...1000rms each and the amp i was using wasnt even giving them that while it was at the same time tearing down my yellowtop.

Ive just always been curious about different sub stages. I think ill stay with this one for a while since it gives a fair amount of trunk space and a nice rumble....the lows are very very low. I like it.

[talnlnky]

Yea the RE's were very nice but they were just too pwer hungry...1000rms each and the amp i was using wasnt even giving them that while it was at the same time tearing down my yellowtop.

Ive just always been curious about different sub stages. I think ill stay with this one for a while since it gives a fair amount of trunk space and a nice rumble....the lows are very very low. I like it.

Physics 101 for ya....
Hoffman's Iron Law tells us that a sub can do 1 or 2 of the following three thing... but NEVER all 3. It can do sub-par job at all three however.

1:fit in a small box
2: Play low
3: be efficient

like I said, pick two that it will do well at, and one it will be horrible at.... Generally car subs pick #1, and then split 50/50 with #2/#3, so they do mediocre on those two parts.

You just said the RE required too much power to get as loud as you wanted... But then you said the Type R's fit in a small box, play low, and are more efficient...... Your mind is playing tricks on you. Physics doesn't play tricks.

[The Architect]

back when i had the RE's i never even looked at the current voltage at different volume levels etc to gauge how loud is safe for the electrical and I bet now that looking back when I would occasionally do it full tilt for a short demo the voltage was going to the low 12's high 11's.

I just will never let that happen since Im always monitoring everything now.

The R's do in fact play very low, as far as efficiency...well it is what it is. As far as each one is concerned the box is relatively small in that each one has maybe 1.5cuft. to work with.

Id say that the 3 R's on a realistic 800 watts from the 1200watt amp are close to be as loud as the RE's.

Im playin around with the idea of using one of the two Type X's i just got although I do need to sell them Im very curious to how they perform.

[talnlnky]

back when i had the RE's i never even looked at the current voltage at different volume levels etc to gauge how loud is safe for the electrical and I bet now that looking back when I would occasionally do it full tilt for a short demo the voltage was going to the low 12's high 11's.

I just will never let that happen since Im always monitoring everything now.

The R's do in fact play very low, as far as efficiency...well it is what it is. As far as each one is concerned the box is relatively small in that each one has maybe 1.5cuft. to work with.

Id say that the 3 R's on a realistic 800 watts from the 1200watt amp are close to be as loud as the RE's.

Im playin around with the idea of using one of the two Type X's i just got although I do need to sell them Im very curious to how they perform.
Just get your hands on one of the old school RE XXX subs... the ones that used XBL^2 technology.... Those subs were the best street better sub ever made, regardless of price.

If you've got $400 laying around and don't mind making a big box... i'd say run one of these...
http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=24_93_150&products_id=681&Cid=83d8d2050286efc5e0debcc77d3be9e5

tho it is actually meant for Home Theater... it'll do an awesome job in the car if you're willing to give up 5-10cuft.

[The Architect]

thats one hell of a woofer, those guys are using 16-24cuft boxes for that thing although the larger end of the spectrum is for ported and at 16hz which is incredible.

Ive heard good stories about the old school xxx's and theres ususally a few lyin around in the classifieds at caraudio.com

I might head in that direction after my alpine phase is over.

[RUFFSTUFF]

I'm gonna get flamed for this I know... Awesome components... horrible install. Hope you don't hit your brakes too hard.... :iono:

[The Architect]

the component are....decent

i have before and they dont move much.

it could be cleaner sure but im not entering any shows anytime soon...ever. and its functional and stable.

[RUFFSTUFF]

the component are....decent

i have before and they dont move much.

it could be cleaner sure but im not entering any shows anytime soon...ever. and its functional and stable.



Cool!

[TheRealEnth]

How good does ur HDU perform?

[The Architect]

hdu? headunit? ive seen many many an acronym before but not that one. maybe its just bc im tired.

[talnlnky]

thats one hell of a woofer, those guys are using 16-24cuft boxes for that thing although the larger end of the spectrum is for ported and at 16hz which is incredible.

Ive heard good stories about the old school xxx's and theres ususally a few lyin around in the classifieds at caraudio.com

I might head in that direction after my alpine phase is over.

the thing with that 18" I linked you... is that you wouldn't need to use such a big box & low tuning... as that is meant for very flat response in a house. Cars have cabin gain in the 30hz and down region... so you could go with a higher tuning, and smaller box... and end up getting a bit of a bump in the 30hz range for that LOW LOOOOOOW bass you hear in some rap songs.

I haven't modeled that sub for a long time, but I believe I could probably design a box that'd be around 8cuft that would work...



I had a buddy run a RE XXX18 (old design) in a wall in a honda civic hatchback.... was a killer setup. Threw over 3kw's to the sub and never fried the coil... tho he did tear the spider eventually... and yes, he did it for competitions. Kid ran 4 1000ca bats & a 280amp 15v alternator. When doing burps his voltage never dropped below 14volts.

[The Architect]

ive come to the sad realization that I wont be able to do much more being limited to 1K for subs and even that is pushing it.

Ive got these two type xs im dying to try out but i cant justify giving them like 500 watts each.

Id love to have an HO alt but as Ive been told by one of the few HO alt companys is that it cant be done for the yaris...

[talnlnky]

ive come to the sad realization that I wont be able to do much more being limited to 1K for subs and even that is pushing it.

Ive got these two type xs im dying to try out but i cant justify giving them like 500 watts each.

Id love to have an HO alt but as Ive been told by one of the few HO alt companys is that it cant be done for the yaris...
ive come to the sad realization that I wont be able to do much more being limited to 1K for subs and even that is pushing it.

Ive got these two type xs im dying to try out but i cant justify giving them like 500 watts each.

Id love to have an HO alt but as Ive been told by one of the few HO alt companys is that it cant be done for the yaris...

why not? maybe not using the stock casing... but i'm sure you can do it... i know there's at least one company that makes HO alts for the yaris because a few people have paid for them.... I was randomly looking for alts... there was a few companies that made "1 size fits all" alts.... I wonder if any of those would work... one of them was fairly cheap... I wanna say $150, though it was only 100amps... so not a huge difference. 250watts isn't enought to justify that kind of money.


If you want to get louder, think about efficiency. Efficient sub (something with a high dB to w/m rating... and a flat BL curve so it remains efficient even when you give it 1000 watts. Then there is the big 3 upgrade. Then there is the design of the box you use.

Those three things right there can have an astronomical effect on how loud you get.


Do the big 3 upgrade like sqcomp did.... and I eventually plan on doing when i', not so lazy. I've got 17 feet of 4awg I can cut up for mine.

[The Architect]

Ive been procrastinating for a very long time on the big 3 but itll get done.

The main reason I believe an HO alt cant be done is because of what the guy at Ohio generator said.

This is copied from the honda element club or whatever but its word for word what was told to me for our yaris.

" I asked about a better alternator for the Element. Gus had good news and bad news. The bad news is there is no high output alternator for our car. The good news is we own a better alternator than we think we do.

Honda uses a Denso alternator in the Element. They make many of the alternators for Japanese cars. Specifically, Gus gave me this part number: 104 210 3290. This doesn't match any Honda number so I'd imagine this is a Denso number. In our car, the stator (the part of the alternator that doesn't turn) uses square hairpin wiring. It is not your typical round wire and the stator cannot be re-wound to put out more current. It is what it is.

And that is better than we thought. Gus said he had in the shop half a dozen hairpin wire Denso alternators similar to ours for testing and consistently they put out 35-40 amps more than their rating. The service manual specs the Element's alternator at 90 amp. The Gus Rating System says that it is really a 125-130 amp alternator.

Gus recommended I use multiple batteries and better wire instead. I agreed. "

[goku87]

Physics doesn't play tricks.

But you can do tricks with physics!!!

http://www.einsteinyear.org/get_involved/physicstogoresources/physicstogopdf/Physics%20Tricks%20-%20updated.pdf

The main reason I believe an HO alt cant be done is because of what the guy at Ohio generator said.

HO Alts can be made. They just have to be made from scratch, not rebuilt from our current alternator.

[computerlove87]

Would you like some car with your subwoofer?:bellyroll:

[lilredrocket]

What about an over drive pully for your alt.? Mike at NST can do custom pullys.

[The Architect]

overdrive pulley...hadnt thought of that. im curious as to what gains might be seen.

[talnlnky]

overdrive pulley...hadnt thought of that. im curious as to what gains might be seen.

well, you'd generally hit your peak amperage output at a lower RPM... so Instead of hitting max amps at say 2000-2500rpms... you might it hit at 1500. Alts aren't like computers... you can't overclock them to get more power... you max out at a certain rpm and thats it.... more rpms doesn't do anything.

Electronically speaking.... it would be better for somebody who did a lot of driving at low RPM's.... maybe a city driver... or somebody that drives a lot of 40mph in 5th gear.

I'd be cautious of doing this though, not sure if this would cause the alt to burn out quicker..... or even if the bearings inside of it would heat up too much and seize up. No clue if either of these issues would even be a problem or not... but its something that I wouldn't be surprised if it did happen.

I think the best solution for you.... if it were easy to do (which I'm sure it isn't) would be to mod the alt to output 15v instead of 14.xx. The higher the voltage the less amperage needed... the less amps needed, the less resistance, heat loss, and voltage drop.

Someday cars will run on 36v or higher systems... that day will be the single greatest day in car audio... 2000watt systems will be able to ditch expensive 1/0awg power cable and run stuff more like 4awg or even 8awg instead. Amplifierss will draw 30 amps instead of 100. I pray they have those higher voltage cars out by the time I go buy my next car.

[talnlnky]

Ive been procrastinating for a very long time on the big 3 but itll get done.

The main reason I believe an HO alt cant be done is because of what the guy at Ohio generator said.

This is copied from the honda element club or whatever but its word for word what was told to me for our yaris.

" I asked about a better alternator for the Element. Gus had good news and bad news. The bad news is there is no high output alternator for our car. The good news is we own a better alternator than we think we do.

Honda uses a Denso alternator in the Element. They make many of the alternators for Japanese cars. Specifically, Gus gave me this part number: 104 210 3290. This doesn't match any Honda number so I'd imagine this is a Denso number. In our car, the stator (the part of the alternator that doesn't turn) uses square hairpin wiring. It is not your typical round wire and the stator cannot be re-wound to put out more current. It is what it is.

And that is better than we thought. Gus said he had in the shop half a dozen hairpin wire Denso alternators similar to ours for testing and consistently they put out 35-40 amps more than their rating. The service manual specs the Element's alternator at 90 amp. The Gus Rating System says that it is really a 125-130 amp alternator.

Gus recommended I use multiple batteries and better wire instead. I agreed. "
yeah, like I said, you just have to do a completely new alt.... can't recycle any parts. If you wanted you could always run two alts... would have to fabricate a bracket to hold the second one, and use a bigger belt to reach the extra distance.... it'd be as expensive, if not more than just buying a HO alt though.

[The Architect]

I talked to nathan from excessive amperage and if i provide the core for our alternator he will basically make a custom modded one with a LOT more power for 280 bucks.

ebay here I come.

[The Architect]

as it turns out the modded HO alt he would provide for 280 would idle at 90 and overall provide about 40 more amps...

Not sure about this one.

[IsLNdbOi]

Wow. Looks like extreme overkill. My Yaris's trunk, back seats and rear-view mirror cry when they see that picture.

[goku87]

as it turns out the modded HO alt he would provide for 280 would idle at 90 and overall provide about 40 more amps...

Not sure about this one.

he quoted me $390 shipped to ak w/o me providing the core or whatever lol.

[The Architect]

yea i read his email wrong he said he would provide the core so 280 bucks for a good 130 maybe 140 amps alt and 90 amps at idle is pretty good, once i get paid ill have him start.

[goku87]

oh, well my quote was for 180 amps @ idle + painted red w/ metallic flakes + s&h to the good ol' ak.

hard-core. :thumbup:

[The Architect]

180 at idle is insane and with our small little case almost unbelievable.

Also I wonder at what RPM he assumes is idle.

do you have a copy of that quote? Id like to ask him about that.

[goku87]

180 at idle is insane and with our small little case almost unbelievable.

I know right?! :thumbup:

Also I wonder at what RPM he assumes is idle.

Dunno, forgot to ask.

do you have a copy of that quote? Id like to ask him about that.

Nate Said: "I can custom build you a 180 amp alternator that will bolt on with no modifications. It owuld be $390 shipped to the lower 48 and will come with an overdrive pulley installed for great power at idle. Let me know how I can help."

I Said: "That's actually the exact amperage I was looking for, go figure. And the price is a lot lower than everywhere else I have checked. One thing though, I forgot to mention I live in Alaska. About how much would it be total with s&h to Alaska? Also, did you have metal flake paint available?"

Nate Said: "Shipping to Alaska would be about $30 more. I can paint it red or metallic red for $20. I will be closed from March 20 through March 30th, incase you want to wait untilI get back, If not - I could have it ready the first of April if you order it now."

So yeah, after looking back I lied about price. An extra $50 for the paint/s&h lol. Still a lot better than anywhere else. :biggrin:

[sqcomp]

Just reading...

So the turnaround on your order is 7 months?!?

[goku87]

Just reading...

So the turnaround on your order is 7 months?!?

lol no i held off on buying it until i got back from iraq. but then stuff happened and i kept pushing it back. but i finally got my money so imma start buying my stereo stuff now lol. :thumbsup:

[sqcomp]

You mention that You served here in this nasty hole called Iraq. We're you in the Alaska NG?

One of your former Alaska boys is under our command here...

Our prayers are with him. His vehicle got hit by an IED last week. I'm sure he's in Germany by now.

http://www.oregonlive.com/news/index.ssf/2009/08/oregon_guard_soldier_wounded_i.html

http://blog.oregonlive.com/oregonatwar/2009/08/clarifying_the_actions_within.html

The OIC, the section commander and I had a near beer that night. We held one up for him, "Here's to Pierce and silver linings."

...Indeed.

[goku87]

Air Force: AD, Elmendorf

I was lucky, while I was there the closest I came to any kind of danger was the occasional mortor shot at base every 2/3 days. The Purple Heart is definitely the medal you don't want to get.

[sqcomp]

indeed...

You know about the hellhole part though.

[goku87]

yeah. pretty much sucks.