View Full Version : Increased MPG or HP anyone????
slvryaris
10-08-2006, 05:35 PM
Was curious if anyone was experiencing an increase in miles per gallon or horsepower with an aftermarket Intake or exhaust. I was curious to know if an intake or exhaust would benefit other then looking/sounding better. Let me know what you all are using and your thoughts on the product.
Violin
10-08-2006, 07:16 PM
Give me a couple of weeks and I'll let you know about the AEM cold air intake.
Yaris TTE JWRC
10-08-2006, 07:32 PM
Was curious if anyone was experiencing an increase in miles per gallon or horsepower with an aftermarket Intake or exhaust. I was curious to know if an intake or exhaust would benefit other then looking/sounding better. Let me know what you all are using and your thoughts on the product.
if u increase th HP u are going to lose MPG, the same thing to Increse MPG = lose HP, u cant get it all, the Farrais only get 8-10 MPG, but the got mass HP. so if the intake give u good HP, then u will lose good MPG.
Not so true Yaris TTe,I have a TRD CAI,And I noticed a 3-5% increase in milage,no bull.Actually if you are easy on the throttle at all times,you will get an improvment,but ofcourse when you get the CAI or exhaust,you always want to accelarate faster,because now you can.With the CAI,it actually is like compressed/denser air,which will cause your car to use less gas.zthink of it this way,if its real hot out side,air is less dense,so your car replaces lost air with more gas,so when the air is cooler via cold day or CAI system,them you will have better combustion using less gas,its that simple.As for exhaust,it helps reduce back pressure,and at the right rpm will increase the pulse performance,it like it creates a outward vacum that actually helps pull the exhaust out.If you have both CAI and intake,you will get good improvment if you are easy on the throttle,but can you resist when you get those new performance parts.And you cant compare a ferrari with a 4 banger,you dont even want me to start and explain why a ferrari uses more gas!!!
Black Yaris
10-08-2006, 11:29 PM
I have a TRD cold air and have noticed some MPG improvment, but, as eco stated, I romp on her a little bit more so it is only like 15-20 more miles per tank. hey even rompin on her hard I am gettin 30-33 MPG
When my OEM tires expire, I may buy a set of tires with lower rolling resistance and I believe I will get slightly better acceleration and slightly better fuel economy as a result.
Yaris TTE JWRC
10-09-2006, 01:40 AM
the bottom line, when u upgrade ur car with performance induction and exhaust system, it will take more fuel then the oem sysem, due to the INCREASE OF AIR FLOW, if u think ur CAI, SR, Header, or exhaust increases ur MPG, its all up in ur head.:bellyroll:
ItsMyDaily
10-09-2006, 02:21 AM
The only way adding an intake will decrease your mpg is if your busy gunning it all the time to hear the noise of it. When You add these bolt ons such as intake, header, exhaust, it only improves fuel efficiency. Adding more power to the vehicle only makes it easier for the vehicle to move itself. Meaning the engine has less struggle getting the car moving, and also means you are able to apply less gas to get to your desired speed at the right amount of time.
Yes you are adding more air into the engine which helps increase combustion, but you are not adding more fuel to it unless your running an aftermarket ecu. Adding an intake will not make your ecu send more fel into your engine to compensate for the "extra" air. It's set to what it is, and that's that.
If anything with all bolt-ons most cars end up running lean if they don't have an ecu to tune with because the factory ecu will not automatical ajust itself and send more fuel. While this is good for gas, going to lean is not good for the motor on the long run....especially if your always pushing it.
ItsMyDaily
10-09-2006, 02:24 AM
and if you need an example.....
when I had my S bone stock I was averages with calm driving around 200-210 on a full tank. After adding my intake/header/test pipe/exhaust/flywheel I was making close to 230whp(this was all on the stock ecu). After all those mods I was averaging with calm driving 235-245 on a full tank.
Violin
10-09-2006, 11:24 AM
Basic thermodynamics tells you that all other things being equal, when you lower the intake temp, you'll increase effeciency.
jcove
10-13-2006, 10:26 PM
if u increase th HP u are going to lose MPG, the same thing to Increse MPG = lose HP, u cant get it all, the Farrais only get 8-10 MPG, but the got mass HP. so if the intake give u good HP, then u will lose good MPG.
I have just recieved my axle back exhaust from Vibrant. (I'll have pics up on the weekend) It was installed last Friday and I filled up Friday night. I was getting about 500 kms per tank of gas. Right now I have two bars left and I'm already over 450 kms on this tank. My thoughts are that if the engine is flowing better, your running at a lower RPM at the same speed. I've noticed about 500 rpm difference at highway speeds. That way you are using less fuel to go the same speed. Same goes with the intake. I LOVE the sound of my exhaust and it looks sweet.
riceboy
10-13-2006, 10:34 PM
Hey Jcove, long time no see!!! Glad to see that you got things worked out with Vibrant, can't wait to see the pics!!! Hey let me know if you're coming out to the fall tour this Sunday....
bulldogs2k
10-18-2006, 12:46 AM
and if you need an example.....
when I had my S bone stock I was averages with calm driving around 200-210 on a full tank. After adding my intake/header/test pipe/exhaust/flywheel I was making close to 230whp(this was all on the stock ecu). After all those mods I was averaging with calm driving 235-245 on a full tank.
I need to get a header and emanage! my goal is 230 to the wheels, but i want to get there with my cats still in place. I will probably buy a test pipe and put my exhaust back on for a quick dyno run. :burnrubber:
Get the intake! :thumbup:
My thoughts are that if the engine is flowing better, your running at a lower RPM at the same speed. I've noticed about 500 rpm difference at highway speeds. That way you are using less fuel to go the same speed. Same goes with the intake. I LOVE the sound of my exhaust and it looks sweet.
sorry to say, your thoughts are wrong. RPM and speed is dependent on the gearing of the transaxle. ie. if you are going 100km/h in 5th gear, your rpm will ALWAYS be the same. the ONLY way for any changes to affect your rpm-speed relation is if you change your overall wheel diameter.
yes, you may be using less fuel to go the same speed, which is why mods usually increase mileage, but it does not change the rpm-speed relation in any way.
Your wrong Ron.Even when Im behind a trailer,I notice a diffrence in rpm's at a set speed.I have a ScangaugeII and a tach,I know what Im talking about.Laws are made to be broken,and I know for sure thats not a law.
hasher22
11-20-2006, 12:21 AM
Wow there is gonna be a great debate here.
My yaris - gained some Hp with my new muffler, but i dont take that much notice with my MPG
spkrman
11-20-2006, 02:24 AM
same here, small gain with muffler only, nothing measurable mpg wise though, if there is a difference its not big.
hasher22
11-20-2006, 05:11 AM
Ya its always good to get something out of your mods, emotionally or performance wise.
Like i always say "better than nothing"
Violin
11-20-2006, 06:16 AM
With the AEM CAI and TRD exhaust I'm getting 1 or 2 more mpg based upon a decent number of fill ups.
Also its more fun to drive, sounds great and looks better.
Win/win.
spkrman
11-20-2006, 07:26 AM
yep I did it just for the sound, really.
07WYarisRS
11-20-2006, 10:22 AM
FWIW if you know how a transmission works AUTO or MANUAL a gear ratio CAN NOT CHANGE ON ITS OWN. RPM MUST be the same. Ron is 100% correct
Adding any component to the intake or exhaust CAN NOT lower or raise your gear ratio or cruise speed RPM. It's impossible.
If you say it can please by all means explain this mechanical phenomenon to us
Man I love it when people that have no idea how fuel injection or carburetion works post in threads like these. Gives me something to laugh at and makes my day.
As for more HP = less MPG
Yes, usually
An engine is basically a big air pump the more air you let in and out the bigger the combustion. BUT in order to maintain reliability the fuel injection system will always maintain a PROPER fuel/air mixture (stoich) 14.7:1
That's 14.7 parts oxygen to 1 part fuel
That's what oxygen sensors are for. They read the mixture levels and send the info back to the ECU so it can correct the fuel trims and injector timing to maintain the 14:1 mixture.
Regardless if you lower the air temps or even force air in via a turbo or supercharger the STOCK ECU can alter the fuel injection over a WIDE range to maintain the proper fuel mixture. If the car is run higher or lower then this fuel mixture it will cause serious engine problems. And NO matter what you do as far as bolt on the ECU and FI system and the dozens of sensors on this car will maintain the perfect fuel mixture.
If you add more air or colder air it MUST ADD MORE FUEL.
Saying the EFI will not add extra fuel for more oxygen is just silly. That means nobody here can drive their car from here to Florida then up into the high mountains of Colorado with out serious tuning issues? Give me phuckin break. The ECU and EFI system will compensate for air temps, humidity, intake air volume and YES altitude. It has to compensate otherwise you car would run like ass.
If you allow more air into the engine buy either changing the intake or exhaust or both the engine MUST add more fuel. If it does not you run lean and even a little bit lean will cause DETONATION, PRE-IGNITION, and both will destroy your engine. Most engines also use a knock sensor that listens for any signs of detonation or pre-ignition and will alter the ignition timing to compensate (none of which adds power but infact greatly reduces it to prevent engine damage)
The reason people don't often see a MPG difference is because under normal driving conditions or at cruise speed there is no HP gain
Look at the latest dyno results posted in the WR secret weapon short ram intake thread.
There is no noticeable HP gain until after 4500 rpm. The intake or exhaust don't do a damn thing before that rpm range and as long as you drive in this rpm range your mileage will remain the same.
At 2000-3500 there is no big gain BUT drive in the power curve 4500rpm + and you will see a loss of MPG because with more air, there is a need for more fuel.
Anyone that says they feel a difference in power 1hp at normal cruise speeds is completely full of shit.
That's why colder weather/air temps make every FI engine harder on fuel. Colder air temps mean more dense air = more oxygen and more oxygen means the car must inject more fuel to maintain the proper fuel/air ratio (stoich)
Plain and simple
Colder the air temp = more oxygen= more fuel (to maintain stoich) = more hp
More air volume = more oxygen = more fuel (to maintain stoich) = more HP
Violin
11-20-2006, 10:56 AM
I guess that Carnot guy was full of crap then. :rolleyes:
07WYarisRS
11-20-2006, 11:07 AM
I guess that Carnot guy was full of crap then. :rolleyes:
Yeah in guess so.
Do you reall think at car cruising at 20% throttle is allowing the same amount of air into the engine as a car running 80% throttle.
NO WAY...
The fuel injection system must accurately and constantly change the fuel trims to provide the propera mount of fuel for the right amount of air.
it does this with mass air flow sensors and oxygen sensors that read air volumes and oxygen levels.
Saying a FI system is set and can not or will not change its setting for more air or less is retarded. That's why carburetors were fazed out because that's how they operate and with out the ability to change the fuel mixtuyre for changing air temps/weather etc it's extremely hard for them to meet EPA standards.
For anyone that still thinks they know how fi sytems work and that they are a set metered fuel system like a carburetor... Please read this
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-injection.htm
Violin
11-20-2006, 01:08 PM
That all sounds great.
However - my car was consistently getting about 30 mpg. With the CAI and exhaust upgrades I'm getting 31-32 mpg driving the same routes with the same driving style.
Go figure.
Yarii
11-20-2006, 02:17 PM
Your gains in power or mileage with exhaust/intake bolt-on's both come from making the engine waste less of the power it is making on keeping itself operating.
An engine is basically just an air pump, it sucks it in, burns some fuel with it, then pushes all the waste gas out. If it can pull air in and push exhaust out with less engery, that energy can be applied to the flywheel instead. Those gains in power translate to less air/fuel needed to maintain a cruising speed. The chemistry doesn't change, you still need to have a correct fuel mixture, but because your engine isn't working as hard to breathe, you can maintain a certain rpm with less throttle than a stock motor. Car manufacturers design first with ease of manufacture/assembly and noise in mind, which is why the stock equipment isn't as efficient as it could be.
Don't think of bolt-on's as adding power, you're just taking power the engine is already making, and moving a little bit of it to the wheels.
07WYarisRS
11-20-2006, 04:06 PM
That all sounds great.
However - my car was consistently getting about 30 mpg. With the CAI and exhaust upgrades I'm getting 31-32 mpg driving the same routes with the same driving style.
Go figure.
There is a difference between cruising and accelerating. A BIG difference.
Unless your revving the engine over 4500 rpm you have added little to no HP and very little torque. So regular driving MPG won't usually see a difference in performance or mileage in fact changing component that add top end power like header often take away a lot of low end power/torque is not designed correctly.
The difference is this. Accelerate your engine in the now stronger power curve over 4500rpm and there will be a loss of MPG. More air=more fuel
Cruise at the rpm of your new power curve and mileage will drop or reamin the same.
A cold air intake or high flow exhaust does not help off the line up to about 3000 rpm because at such low air intake volumes and exhaust volumes there is no restrictions. The restriction is at HIGH rpm operation where the engine has trouble pulling in or letting out air fast enough. That's why you only see a HP gain over 4500 rpm
The same will apply for a turbo or supercharged car if the compressor is not pushing any positive boost. If you added a big turbo to the Yaris and it did not spool up until after 4500 rpm you would not see any perfromance increase below 4500rpm and your mileage would not change, but once it starts spool up, and force air in the ECU compensates by adding more fuel.
With the high flow muffler and a short ram intake the engine is allowed to breath better above 4500 rpm that's why you only see notciable gains over that rpm.
1hp at 2500 rpm will no = 2-3 mpg
10hp maybe but your not getting at 10hp gain from muffler and intake at 2500 rpm while on the highway infact there may be no HP gain at all at such low RPM's . The 10hp gain is only at 5000-5500.
Basically that kind of HP is only good for drag racing because under normal driving conditions your engine will not see these rpms.
That's where CAMS, twin loop muffler or superchargers comes in because these component help move the power curve lower to where you would use it for everyday driving. On a stock engine set up you have a window of only 1000rpm (4500~5500 rpm) where you can use the HP gain, with about a 200rpm range with higher torque.
Don't get me wrong 10ft.lbs and 10 hp gain is HUGE for such a little engine but it does come at a price of more fuel USED while accelerating (not cruising) but unless you see a noticable HP gain at cruise speeds it's not going to help your fuel mileage much if at all.
And from what I've seen of most dyno's on any I4 engine under 2L you don't gain HP unitl HIGH in the rpm range.
Remember one other thing
TORQUE is what gets you up to speed. It's the force that accelerates you. The more torque you have the faster you accelerate.
HP keeps you there. The higher the HP the easier it is for the engine to maintain speed. The more HP you have the less throttle you need to maintain speeds.
BTW did anyone notice the intake in that thread and how it's damn near the same length as the STOCK intake...
Toyota did their research on this car. The intake was designed with good performance and best mileage over all for normal operationg conditions.
Violin
11-20-2006, 04:14 PM
You obviously feel very strongly about this. I guess my mileage increase is an illusion. This must be wrong too:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1103/rjenkie/File0001Large-2.jpg
07WYarisRS
11-20-2006, 04:26 PM
You don't listen do you!
I was talking about the dyno info in the secret wepon thread. Where an intake shows NO GAINS or and exhaust shows NO GAINS before 4500 rpm
I then went to say if you change the power at cruise speed for which you operate mileage may go down or stay the same. More HP at cruise allows you to drive with less throttle.
Comparing the two intakes..... While the AEM does not make as much over all PEAK HP
It does yeild higher low-midrange RPM powercurve so the AEM would be the better overall intake for daily driving and steady cruise speeds
But accelerating it's going to use more fuel if the intake allows more air in.
PLAIN AND SIMPLE it HAS TO. You can't get around it...
Violin
11-20-2006, 04:39 PM
So I really am getting better mileage with my AEM CAI and TRD exhaust (the only ones I ever commented about on this thread), or am I just holding the calculator upside down?
the_saint
11-20-2006, 04:50 PM
Is it me, or is it getting hot in here?
Better play it safe...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mlsaint78/firesuit.jpg
07WYarisRS
11-20-2006, 05:15 PM
It is possible
If you drive at fairly steady speeds and there is a noticable torque/hp gain in the rpm range you are operating at YES it's possible.
The AEM charts show the best gains are below 5000rpm and a MUCH wider power curve of over 300rpm (2000-5000rpm) where the other intake the gains are above 4500. (4500-5500)
That's why I like the twin loop style mufflers, strait through pipes for great top end gains but provide a wider power curve then any single strait through pipe design due to the heat retention and needed back pressure.
But if your driving conditions call for constant acceleration/stop and go etc the result is usually lower mpg.
Same as if you were installing a cam if you want to keep you fuel mileage you buy a can that has a high torque and lower rpm range then a racing cam. this puts the power where you need it.
I would buy the AEM intake LONG before I bought that WR intake. Actually i would never consider buying an intake where the gains are over 5000 rpm in a 100rpm window.
PEAK HP means nothing
More usuable power and torque will make you faster overall.
for instane
Lets say the AEM and WR cars were to race and both are automatics..
By the time the WR car got up to 4500 rpm the AEM car would already be a car length ahead because it's power pand/power curve starts sooner and carries on longer. Its a lot like a car with turbo lag.That's why supercharged cars are usually quicker off the line because they produce more HPand torque at lower rpms.
With my truck when i first got it got rock solid 24mpg (low KM and like new)
I change the oil, trans and differential fluid to Amsoil synthetics
I made my own high flow foam air filter, and modified the air intake system. I used the OEM air box but remove the inlet and made one 3X larger and directed in cold air only. For the exhaust I made my own stainless cat back system using a large glass pack muffler with dual inlet and dual outlets and piped it to works like a twin loop with single in/out.
Just that alone boosted my MPG to 27 on the hwy, and HP overall was probably around 10-15hp gain. Very noticable around 2500-3500 rpm.
But in town there was a loss of mpg not much but it did show up on paper and the pocket book. Because I drive mostly hwy it worked out great for me because over all my mileage went up. Hardly any s-10 owners believe I was getting 27MPG except the few that did the same thing.
Violin
11-20-2006, 05:20 PM
Thanks - You provided quite a bit of info there and it was fun messing with you.
07WYarisRS
11-20-2006, 05:25 PM
kept me busy for a while too
hasher22
11-20-2006, 07:35 PM
Is it me, or is it getting hot in here?
Better play it safe...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/mlsaint78/firesuit.jpg
OMG that cracked me up for some odd reason......
Snake
11-21-2006, 04:19 PM
if u increase th HP u are going to lose MPG, the same thing to Increse MPG = lose HP, u cant get it all, the Farrais only get 8-10 MPG, but the got mass HP. so if the intake give u good HP, then u will lose good MPG.
this was the dumbest thing ive ever read before thank you for sharing
Black Yaris
11-21-2006, 10:22 PM
ok this may sound a bit funny... or is is just a coincdence.... after switching to mobile one 5w30 synth i have been getting 3-4 MPG better gas miles..... I am thinking of switching over to amsoil 15w90 gearlube in my trans as well, maybe add a couple more MPG
Violin
11-22-2006, 07:08 AM
Mobil One didn't do a thing for my mileage (I'll still use it though).
07WYarisRS
11-22-2006, 09:30 AM
That's because Mobil 1 is still a group III minaeral oil.
Black Yaris
if you have a manual trans use amsoil 75w90 gear oil.
It will increase your mileage slightly and free up a bit more power
jcove
11-23-2006, 06:53 AM
sorry to say, your thoughts are wrong. RPM and speed is dependent on the gearing of the transaxle. ie. if you are going 100km/h in 5th gear, your rpm will ALWAYS be the same. the ONLY way for any changes to affect your rpm-speed relation is if you change your overall wheel diameter.
yes, you may be using less fuel to go the same speed, which is why mods usually increase mileage, but it does not change the rpm-speed relation in any way.
I haven't been keeping up with this thread. Ron, I have to disagree. My RPM is at least 300 - 400 lower at the same speed on the highway. I'm not a tech and I don't really care how at this point, but I know for sure that it's different. All I know is that the needle on my tach is in a different spot at the same speed. I tried it out and watched the diff. :iono:
I'm also getting way better gas mileage.
DTM_Yaris
12-16-2006, 11:54 PM
Mobil One didn't do a thing for my mileage (I'll still use it though).
Well after the lesson we got from 07 he still hasn't given you a concrete answer to why you are INDEED getting better mileage.
It was not an illusion. You increased the volumetric efficiency of the engine.
With the denser intake charge, and static ignition timing from the ecu stock program you will be able to increase your mileage slightly. It is slight but it is still an increase. In some cases you can get a few more MPG, but some don't ever see it. Due to the fact that they most likely see WOT more often now after modding the car.
Anyway, figured you might want someone to back up your theory.:biggrin:
DTM_Yaris
12-16-2006, 11:56 PM
That's because Mobil 1 is still a group III minaeral oil.
Black Yaris
if you have a manual trans use amsoil 75w90 gear oil.
It will increase your mileage slightly and free up a bit more power
I would not jump to conclusions about increased power and mileage from adding AMS oil.
KSIbucky
12-17-2006, 12:08 AM
When my OEM tires expire, I may buy a set of tires with lower rolling resistance and I believe I will get slightly better acceleration and slightly better fuel economy as a result.
be care full with tire pressure because I guess that mean they have tighter rubber and it lowers mpg a lot compared to stock
Kaotic Lazagna
12-17-2006, 12:37 AM
i'm not going to act like i know everything mechanically with a car, but i can tell you with experience that an intake does increase your gas mileage. when i had my GTI, it had a Neuspeed intake on it, and on almost a full tank, i got between 360-400 on the full tank. however, in order to pass smog, i had to spend over 200 bucks for an OEM intake box. with that installed, i could only get between 320-360 on the full tank. all of this i calculated by using the trip-ometer and dividing the miles by the number of gallons it took to fill up. keep in mind, i drove very conservatively (really feathered the throttle when ever i had the chance to).
as for my Yaris, full tank calculations = avg. 45 mpg. but one time, on a 1/4 tank estimate, i got 62.something mpg. does anyone here know if the fuel guage is set to "drop" slower when it's full? i noticed that when i get to the half-way mark, the bars tend to disappear quicker.
eTiMaGo
12-17-2006, 03:30 AM
i got between 360-400 mpg. however, in order to pass smog, i had to spend over 200 bucks for an OEM intake box. with that installed, i could only get between 320-360 mpg.
OMG the car to end our dependency on crude oil! :laugh:
Kaotic Lazagna
12-17-2006, 04:04 AM
OMG the car to end our dependency on crude oil! :laugh:
holy crap, should have proof read that. i meant full tank, not mpg. see what happens when you're sick, plus studying for finals...i'll go back and edit that.
...............does anyone here know if the fuel guage is set to "drop" slower when it's full? i noticed that when i get to the half-way mark, the bars tend to disappear quicker.
Your observation is very valid. Please see:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2692
When we try to find out if a modification really improves the car's fuel economy, your observation and what have been discussed in the linked thread must be taken into consideration. I would say scangauge and/or trip computer indications, or in the absence of them, long term average numbers (with methods like : https://www.fueleconomy.gov/mpg/MPG.do?action=calcMPG) are more reliable than the fuel gauge bars.
Kaotic Lazagna
12-17-2006, 07:22 PM
Your observation is very valid. Please see:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2692
When we try to find out if a modification really improves the car's fuel economy, your observation and what have been discussed in the linked thread must be taken into consideration. I would say scangauge and/or trip computer indications, or in the absence of them, long term average numbers (with methods like : https://www.fueleconomy.gov/mpg/MPG.do?action=calcMPG) are more reliable than the fuel gauge bars.
thanks, i did notice that my friends' cars do the same...oh, and i use the second method said in your second link. i'm not very good with words, so i made my description very long...lol.
You are welcome!
BTW, we all make long posts occasionally. I am trying to make this one short but I am limited by my poor ability:biggrin:.
Enjoy your modifications and happy posting!
Kaotic Lazagna
12-17-2006, 07:37 PM
You are welcome!
BTW, we all make long posts occasionally. I am trying to make this one short but I am limited by my ability:biggrin:.
Enjoy your modifications and happy posting!
lol...yeah. btw, do you know where i can get/order a Belta badge?
lol...yeah. btw, do you know where i can get/order a Belta badge?
I am afraid I don't. My main interest is fuel economy (you know, the mpg thing):wink:.
May be you can try moving your question to a thread where people discuss subjects like this (I mean, Belta badge) and I am sure you will get a reply from someone helpful and in the know:smile: :smile:.
Kaotic Lazagna
12-17-2006, 09:19 PM
i looked all over the Internet, and can't seem to find any place that sells Belta badges...
i looked all over the Internet, and can't seem to find any place that sells Belta badges...
I am sorry that I cannot be more helpful. Please try posting your queston in the sub forums for cosmetic modifications or classifieds. IMHO, you are asking it in the right forum but the wrong thread. There is no need to get off topic here, no matter how accommodating fellow members are:smile:.
You may get some useful replies from those sub forums. Prepare to be surprised by how knowledgeable many fellow members are. You know, this is the ultimate site :wink:!
Kaotic Lazagna
12-18-2006, 02:45 AM
I am sorry that I cannot be more helpful. Please try posting your queston in the sub forums for cosmetic modifications or classifieds. IMHO, you are asking it in the right forum but the wrong thread. There is no need to get off topic here, no matter how accommodating fellow members are:smile:.
You may get some useful replies from those sub forums. Prepare to be surprised by how knowledgeable many fellow members are. You know, this is the ultimate site :wink:!
will do...thanks.
Mr.Yaris
05-27-2007, 10:25 AM
I haven't been keeping up with this thread. Ron, I have to disagree. My RPM is at least 300 - 400 lower at the same speed on the highway. I'm not a tech and I don't really care how at this point, but I know for sure that it's different. All I know is that the needle on my tach is in a different spot at the same speed. I tried it out and watched the diff. :iono:
I'm also getting way better gas mileage.
Well, you're both right, in a sense. The reason why you see lower RPMs when behind a large vehicle at high speeds is very simple- you're lowering the wind resistance that your car has to "fight" against to maintain it's speed. This also equates to better gas mileage for the same reasons. Less wind resistance = less the engine has to work = greater efficiency of engine's power = better gas mileage.
Mr.Yaris
05-27-2007, 10:33 AM
does anyone here know if the fuel guage is set to "drop" slower when it's full? i noticed that when i get to the half-way mark, the bars tend to disappear quicker.
The reason is likely in the tank's shape & design. My Camaro and my wife's Trans Am are both the same way. When the gas gauge reads 3/4 tank, it's really @ 1/2 tank, and once it reaches that mark, it drops quicker and quicker. When it's at 1/4 tank, you're pretty close to Empty, closer to 1/8 tank. I'm sure the Yaris is the same way. I've noticed this as well with my Yaris, and I'm sure if i asked my wife, she'd tell me her Yaris was the same way (yes, we have two Yarises. They're our "daily drivers" and the Camaro & T/A are our "weekend toys"...)
Mr.Yaris
05-27-2007, 10:49 AM
To those arguing about whether mpg goes up with certain mods, I can assure you, minor bolt-ons DO, in fact, increase mpg, and here's why. Certain mods, like CAI, lightweight pulleys, lightweight wheels, etc. help the engine work less to achieve the same power. With CAI, the engine doesn't have to waste as much HP sucking the air through a restrictive filter. Instead, it breathes easier, and therefore less power is wasted doing so, which translates to better mpg. Adding a lightweight pulley and/or wheels reduces rotating mass, and once again, allows the engine to produce the same amount of power with less work, and thus better gas mileage is the result.
People who say otherwise don't know their butt from a hole in the ground. I've modified a number of cars, and most well-known to me are the Camaro and Trans Am that my wife and I own. When I first started modifying these cars with the smaller "bolt-ons"- CAI, pulleys, headers, exhaust, spark plugs & wires, etc., I noticed not only did these cars make more power, but they got better gas mileage. It wasn't until I started doing other mods that lowered my gas mileage- bigger injectors, camshaft, ported heads & intake, reprogrammed computer, rear axle gears, etc. There's a very clear difference between mods that help an engine MAKE MORE POWER, and mods that help an engine WORK LESS AND MAKE THE SAME POWER WITH LESS WORK/RESISTANCE.
I heard someone got better mileage by changing their oil. I will back this member up. I've seen it first-hand, and I can tell you it's because of the same reason that CAI, pulleys, etc. help improve mpg. Premium-quality oils = better engine lubrication = less resistance & wear on engine internals = less work the engine has to waste on simply running.
Now, some people claiming that just one of these mods improves their mileage by 4-5 mpg or more makes me raise an eyebrow of doubt to their claim, however, it's most certainly believeable if you did several of these mods- oil, CAI, pulleys, etc., you would definitely see a 4-5 (or more) mpg increase.
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