Power upgrade (pictures).

[W.A.S.P]

Well, I am half way through the process, and I have to tell you that it gets simpler and simpler as the minutes past by. At the beginning it looks scary to see 1000 parts and wires and not have a clue what they are for, but once you remove the door panel you get the idea and the process gets simplified. I don't plan to do a tutorial(yet), but I wanted to provide some pictures so you guys get an idea of the location I chose for the brackets, door lock actuator and window regulator, ah! and a view of the switches once installed, the whole thing looks stock and works like a charm.
FYI, I used the Colibri power window kit and the MES door lock kit, both from www.A1Electric.com

I hope the pictures help! :smile:

[twixt]

nice install, looks Just like mine! i used standard panasonic actuators though. window motors have been working great, once the door is sealed up its pretty quiet
:headbang: :headbang:

[vodkalush]

very nice, now all you have left is the passanger side :wink:

[tomjasz]

Well, I am half way through the process, and I have to tell you that it gets simpler and simpler as the minutes past by. At the beginning it looks scary to see 1000 parts and wires and not have a clue what they are for, but once you remove the door panel you get the idea and the process gets simplified. I don't plan to do a tutorial(yet), but I wanted to provide some pictures so you guys get an idea of the location I chose for the brackets, door lock actuator and window regulator, ah! and a view of the switches once installed, the whole thing looks stock and works like a charm.
FYI, I used the Colibri power window kit and the MES door lock kit, both from www.A1Electric.com

I hope the pictures help! :smile:
Would you be kind enough to post the kit model numbers?:bow:

[tiksman]

NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ItsMyDaily]

clean.

[TrancosRt]

Niceeee...
The only thing is that orange disc where the crank used to be...

[Kitt]

Hey can I ask how much for the power window?

[W.A.S.P]

Would you be kind enough to post the kit model numbers?:bow:

Tom, here's the power window kit: http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=Star

And the power locks: http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=W01C-RF104&Category_Code=

[W.A.S.P]

Hey can I ask how much for the power window?


$145 from A1Electric

[W.A.S.P]

Niceeee...
The only thing is that orange disc where the crank used to be...

The orange thing is just a sticker; it's used in case you have to cut to adapt the covers for the hole. In the case of the Yaris there is only about 3mm all around that has to be removed so the cover goes in.

[hasher22]

Hey lookin fresh. Great job

i noticed that you installed some Sat6 Spacers for your speakers. I was just wondering what Screw size did you use???

[W.A.S.P]

Hey lookin fresh. Great job

i noticed that you installed some Sat6 Spacers for your speakers. I was just wondering what Screw size did you use???

Thanks Hasher!.. I used the screws provided with the Sony speakers. After the pictures I took them off because I needed to route the cables from the power locks and windows trough the boot right behind them and decided that didn' want screws anymore, so I enden up riveting the spacers to the door, just like the stock assembly. You can use up to a 5 X 30mm screw for those holes though!

[pennystocks]

Can you put the manual handle back on??? That'd be tight, have the manual handle roll it self up, lmao.

[jbll]

Where did you get your electricity for the power window? :confused:

Cheer!:thumbup:

[vst]

How did you get those power switches? Did they come with the kits? How did you install those?

Also, do you think this kit would work on my Yaris Sedan: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=9707285465&category=50552

[W.A.S.P]

Can you put the manual handle back on??? That'd be tight, have the manual handle roll it self up, lmao.

That would be a little dangerous!... No, but the kit suplies an "emergency" window handle that can be used if anything breaks.

[W.A.S.P]

Where did you get your electricity for the power window? :confused:

Cheer!:thumbup:

Right above the fuse box. You have to test which wires are powered by the ignition being in the on position though.

[W.A.S.P]

How did you get those power switches? Did they come with the kits? How did you install those?

Also, do you think this kit would work on my Yaris Sedan: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=9707285465&category=50552


It sure looks like it would work, you will even have spare parts as it is designed for 4 door applications. The switches are optional, you can get them from www.a1electric.com . I'm about to purchase one more for the passenger side, as the window switch looks a little lonely on that side :wink:

[paultyler_82]

anyone have any info yet on how to convert the hatch on the liftback to power lock/unlock? I think power popping the hatch would be a major hassle, but I would at least like lock/unlock.

[ism3t]

when i got my car upgraded (at a local shop) to power locks, they were able to get it so when i press the unlock button (on my stock key/alarm) my trunk unlocks as well. let me tell you guys....its pretty sweet. the first week i had the car it was hell unlocking/relocking the trunk everytime i went into it (especially since the damn alarm would go off if i forgot to disarm before opening the trunk) the only thing they said they couldnt do was get the trunk to pop open without me pressing the button, but that is a minor detail. CHEERS!

[W.A.S.P]

when i got my car upgraded (at a local shop) to power locks, they were able to get it so when i press the unlock button (on my stock key/alarm) my trunk unlocks as well. let me tell you guys....its pretty sweet. the first week i had the car it was hell unlocking/relocking the trunk everytime i went into it (especially since the damn alarm would go off if i forgot to disarm before opening the trunk) the only thing they said they couldnt do was get the trunk to pop open without me pressing the button, but that is a minor detail. CHEERS!

Dude, I see my next project coming up! But yeah, I doubt it would be easy to set up a pop up mechanism unless you shave the handle and eliminate the lock. Not worth the hassle IMO.

[argylesocks]

The orange thing is just a sticker; it's used in case you have to cut to adapt the covers for the hole. In the case of the Yaris there is only about 3mm all around that has to be removed so the cover goes in.


got a picture of the cover/cap used once the crank arm is removed??


looks great. nice job.

[pezfeo]

when i got my car upgraded (at a local shop) to power locks, they were able to get it so when i press the unlock button (on my stock key/alarm) my trunk unlocks as well. let me tell you guys....its pretty sweet. the first week i had the car it was hell unlocking/relocking the trunk everytime i went into it (especially since the damn alarm would go off if i forgot to disarm before opening the trunk) the only thing they said they couldnt do was get the trunk to pop open without me pressing the button, but that is a minor detail. CHEERS!
Do you know if the hatch is also cable style or could you post a picture of what your hatch actuator setup looks like? I am putting power options on my hatch this week and def. want the hatch to lock and unlock with the doors.

[Blenjar]

I may buy that soon..

-- Blen

[KSIbucky]

what is the point it adds weight and costs way to much

[Kaotic Lazagna]

i got ripped off for mine, 1400 for the stupid Autohaus package. it's a POS. what kind of remote entry works no more than 15 feet of the car? and it also has problems continually.

[Pinnacle]

I mounted the lock actuators on one of my doors the way it is pictured but after watching the bracket move when the acturator was activated made me believe that the screws on the bracket would loosen over time. I deceided to mount the actuators directly to the door in the same area that you have mounted the top of the bracket. I mounted the clip a little higher than the actuator and bent the rod. It is very secure and works fine. I had to remove some of the foam on the back of the door panel but it fits just fine. I recomend you to use different screws to secure the actuators. Maybe a hex head that can be turned with a socket would be easier in a tight space. Trying to use a short screwdriver to turn those cheap screws will only cause the head to strip. I also kept the cable fastened to the white plastic bracket and I secured the outside of the cable sleeve with hot glue to keep it from moving as an added precaution. The outer sleeve of the cable should not move. Power windows will be my next project and it looks like you did a nice job on your install. Thanks for the pictures.

[Blenjar]

Actually think you can do a DYI with pictures..

-- Blen

[daq421]

So I gotta ask.. was the Power Package (pwr windows, cruise, pwr locks, ABS) not available in your area?

-Peter

[mgthompson]

All the ones in my area did not offer the power package and alot were bare without the convience package either. I could only find one person who could do the power locks since they were the cable wire locks but I'm getting a good deal cause he works with me.

[Pinnacle]

I believe that I had the first Yaris sold in New Jersey. I bought it the first day it came out and it was the only one the dealer had. It was a base car with auto trans, rear defroster and wiper. They could have sold three or four of these cars that day while I was waiting to sign the contract. I put in a remote starter as well as the door locks at seperate times but I should have just done it all at once with a good alarm system with remote start and locks. If I get a chance in the near future I will take off the door panel and take a photo of the acturator installation for anyone who is interested.

[TrancosRt]

A lilttle tip for somebody doing a Keyless install (I used A1Electric's keyless kit).
The parking lights wire to connect the "visual" indication is the green wire in the big connector at the top left corner of the fuse box.
It took me some internet time to figure it out !!

[mwykee]

can u picture how the wires go and connect??......thx

[Batmang]

That looks great! Fantastic job!

I'm thinking of doing the power locks install on my girlfriend's Yaris. I'm sure your pictures will come in handy.

How hard was it to install the optional door switches into the arm rest? Did you just cut a little hole?

[rnd243]

I would advise against the switches if you're just doing locks. I mean, the ones in the picture look great, but you don't need them. The locks work fine without them, and there is enough work to install them without extra switches.

[TrancosRt]

I'll post pics of the cabling once I clean it up. Frankly, that area is a mess right now!!! I cared to get it working, not to make it pretty.
I didn't use a switch. If I need to open it, just roll one lock and the other one will follow. The nice thing about the A1 keyless unit is that about 5s after contact, the doors unlock themselves, and once you turn off the car, they unlock automatically. It's a nice feature really

[Treyz]

Sweet W.A.S.P.! Looking to get it in a few months. If I run into problems, you're a local guy ha!

[Batmang]

I would advise against the switches if you're just doing locks. I mean, the ones in the picture look great, but you don't need them. The locks work fine without them, and there is enough work to install them without extra switches.

Yah, good call, I didn't realize until I researched more that the pre-existing lock switches will lock/unlock both doors at once.

Can any of you guys who have done this install post a quick list of what tools are needed or that you used? I'm pretty new to DIY stuff, so I'm still learning.

[rnd243]

Can any of you guys who have done this install post a quick list of what tools are needed or that you used? I'm pretty new to DIY stuff, so I'm still learning.
A tool for popping the door panels and a tool for pushing the ring off the window crank would be nice, but not completely necessary.
A drill
Various screwdrivers
Wire strippers and cutters and stuff

I can't think of much else. You don't need anything you don't have in the garage. The pros solder the wires when they splice into the electrical system. I use those tap connecters. Not quite as permanent, but easier.

[Taiyaki]

I have the same power window kit, but cant find a power source and illumination source to tap to that wont blow fuses. any help?

[Liu997]

Is it possible to get the switches in the panel near the e-brake?

[squall_x]

I have a question what is this part I have on red called or where can I buy it? I am reffering to the piece to hold the door cable and the metal piece from actuator thank you.

http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr41/squall_x_bucket/actuator.jpg

[squall_x]

Is it possible to get the switches in the panel near the e-brake?

You could potentially put the switches where ever you want. You just need to run more cable to make it happen.

[BrianS]

Hi all! I just ordered the keyless entry/power locks kit below. This thread should come in very handy while I try to install it. I'll try to take pictures of my install as I progress. Thanks!

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01C-712T

[TickleTimeTim]

are they both universal kits? would love to have some power windows. and a key faub would be nice too.

[BrianS]

Hi all! I just ordered the keyless entry/power locks kit below. This thread should come in very handy while I try to install it. I'll try to take pictures of my install as I progress. Thanks!

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01C-712T

The keyless entry/power locks kit? Yes, it's universal and here is a link to a power window kit on there that some have installed in the Yaris. I actually prefer manual windows, so I won't be doing that upgrade. LOL!

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=Master

[lilriki509]

how long does the install take for the door locks and windows?

[BrianS]

It took me about 4 hrs to install power locks on both doors and the trunk. I'm sure it could be done faster but I work at a leisurely pace. LOL! I did not do the windows, as I like having the manual cranks.

[toyota_lover]

How are the motors / locks holding up? Another question, are the power window motors noisy and slower than OEM standards?

[yaris prime]

I put mine in in April... So far no problems.

[az_saguaro]

I have had mine in for over a year without problems. With the exception that I had to readjust one of the lock actuators. As far as the noise is concerned, I would say that both are about equal to that of OEM motors and locks. Initially I didn't hook the horn circuit to the locks, but couldn't hear them engage so I added that wire along with the lighting circuit to flash. The window motors are quiet and smooth and just as fast as oem, but it took me about 3 weeks to stop reaching for the window crank.

[keona]

It took me about 4 hrs to install power locks on both doors and the trunk. I'm sure it could be done faster but I work at a leisurely pace. LOL! I did not do the windows, as I like having the manual cranks.

Hi witch kit did you use for your trunk?

[PROX4x4]

Why didn't i see this thread before i did my locks? it took me a long time to figure out the actuator location.

Mine was installed in 5 hours 2 doors only and with a budget of around $40 only. Keyless entry.

[auxmike]

I took the easy route. Got the factory power pkg for $1280 back in '08 when I bought my car. Money well spent with factory warr and parts!

[thorasaurus]

I'm in the process of going from completely manual to power locks. My question is if my car has none of the lock/unlock wire in the 20 pin connector, do I need to tap in there or can I just run the wires straight from the power lock "brain" to the actuators?

Thanks.

[CTScott]

I'm in the process of going from completely manual to power locks. My question is if my car has none of the lock/unlock wire in the 20 pin connector, do I need to tap in there or can I just run the wires straight from the power lock "brain" to the actuators?

Thanks.

You can just run them straight through. There is no reason to go through the hassle of adding the OEM wiring, when it is just going to connect to aftermarket equipment.

[thorasaurus]

Thanks for the quick response. I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way but for now I got the extra wiring at Autozone and should be ready for an afternoon of fun :help:

[thorasaurus]

Okay, I've hit my first wall. I'm using the Black Widow 852 kit by the way in case it needs referenced. Install manual here (http://www.blackwidowsecurity.com/installPDF/BW852%20Install.pdf).

I'm not trying anything fancy, just running the wires straight to the actuators that came with the kit. I've tried connecting the common unlock wire (black/green) on the brain to the green wire on the actuator and the common lock wire (blue/black) on the brain to the blue wire on the actuator. The brain clicks and the horn honks (once for lock; twice for unlock) but the actuator doesn't move. I've tried every combination of the other two possible lock and unlock wires and even switch blue/green and the actuator won't move.

Any ideas? I only hooked up one for now because I wanted to make sure the wiring was right. Do I need to hook up the other three for them to work?

Thanks.

[CTScott]

Okay, I've hit my first wall. I'm using the Black Widow 852 kit by the way in case it needs referenced. Install manual here (http://www.blackwidowsecurity.com/installPDF/BW852%20Install.pdf).

I'm not trying anything fancy, just running the wires straight to the actuators that came with the kit. I've tried connecting the common unlock wire (black/green) on the brain to the green wire on the actuator and the common lock wire (blue/black) on the brain to the blue wire on the actuator. The brain clicks and the horn honks (once for lock; twice for unlock) but the actuator doesn't move. I've tried every combination of the other two possible lock and unlock wires and even switch blue/green and the actuator won't move.

Any ideas? I only hooked up one for now because I wanted to make sure the wiring was right. Do I need to hook up the other three for them to work?

Thanks.

Are the Violet and Violet/Black connected to +12 and the Brown/Black and White/Black connected to ground?

[thorasaurus]

Well I just found out that what I thought was a 12v on the fuse panel was a nothing so I switched the violet/black-violet to one that I think is now 12v. Off to reconnect the brown/brown-black to ground. I'll be right back.

Thanks again.

[thorasaurus]

Weird. I grounded the brown-black/white-black as per the diagram and then hit the remote and nothing happened. So I checked my 12 volt connections and when I unplugged it and plugged it back in, I now have a long horn honk on either button (unlock/lock) instead of the correct horn honks. Maybe I have to reprograme it now. Either way, it's getting late so the horn probably isn't helping the neighborhood. I'll throw in the towel tonight but man I hope I can figure this out by Thursday (inspection).

Thanks.

[thorasaurus]

One more thing. On the recommendation of Dan Q (here (http://home.comcast.net/~dquicker1/site/?/page/Yaris_Keyless_Entry_DIY/)), I tapped into a 12v for the power with a spade plug at the fuse box.

For the violet/violet-black I used a different spade plug in the fuse box. Should I instead splice-tap into the one I know for sure is a 12v (i.e. tap the red power wire I already know works)?

Thanks.

[CTScott]

One more thing. On the recommendation of Dan Q (here (http://home.comcast.net/~dquicker1/site/?/page/Yaris_Keyless_Entry_DIY/)), I tapped into a 12v for the power with a spade plug at the fuse box.

For the violet/violet-black I used a different spade plug in the fuse box. Should I instead splice-tap into the one I know for sure is a 12v (i.e. tap the red power wire I already know works)?

Thanks.

That one spade plug (listed in DqnQ's guide) is a good constant +12V supply. If you are using another, make sure that it actually is live, as some the spades are not. Also, make sure you have a fuse one that connection, as that spade is on a 60A circuit.

[thorasaurus]

I plan to get the meter out at lunch to check but once I find one 12v constant, I'm just going to link everything up to it with splices. Everything has fuses and I just want to make sure everything is getting power. Either that or I'll tie in one to the 12v on the fuse box and tie the violet/violet-black to the yellow on the ignition. Hopefully something with work.

Thanks as always.

[thorasaurus]

Still nothing. Do you think I need to wire relays like this for it to work? LINK (http://www.commandoalarms.com/doorlockactuators.pdf)

[CTScott]

Still nothing. Do you think I need to wire relays like this for it to work? LINK (http://www.commandoalarms.com/doorlockactuators.pdf)

No. It has built in relays. Post pics for me of all of your connections, and we'll get to the bottom of it.

[thorasaurus]

Onward and upward. I started from scratch so as to make sure all the wires were connected as they should and found that I had not connected the black ground wire (duh).

Anyway, when I finished re-wiring everything, the actuators now work BUT.... both buttons on the remote lock the car when blue/black (brain) is connected to blue (actuator) and green/black (brain) is connected to (green) actuator. If I swap them on the actuator wires, both remote buttons unlock the car. Obviously I want one button to lock and the other to unlock.

I've attached some pictures but at this point I think it's just a right wire, right place issue.

[CTScott]

Your +12V connection of the violet wires should be to the top terminal in the connector between the single blue and the huge single black wires.

[CTScott]

From what I can see in the two pics:

Brown/White horn output - OK

Black/Yellow dome light output - OK

Red +12 Power - should be connected along with Violet wires to correct +12 terminal

Yellow Ignition switched +12 - Can't tell from your pic, but it should be connected to the pink wire on the Ignition switch connector.

[thorasaurus]

Your +12V connection of the violet wires should be to the top terminal in the connector between the single blue and the huge single black wires.

I had it there but there was no power. Weird I know; but there is power at this one so I don't know what to think. As for the red 12v +, I thought it's ok to connect it to the yellow ignition or is that not true?

Thanks, CTScott, you are the man. I'm also consulting the dealer who sold it to me so hopefully between both, I can figure out what's up.

[CTScott]

I had it there but there was no power. Weird I know; but there is power at this one so I don't know what to think. As for the red 12v +, I thought it's ok to connect it to the yellow ignition or is that not true?

Thanks, CTScott, you are the man. I'm also consulting the dealer who sold it to me so hopefully between both, I can figure out what's up.

That may be a sedan vs. Lifback wiring difference. Those are actually fuse holders for some features that we don't get in the US. Just make sure that where you connected them to shows +12 with the ignition on or off.

For the red, your module wants to see unswitched power on that wire.

[thorasaurus]

Actually you were right. The constant 12v works there so I hooked in the violets and the red there and the dealer suggested it might be the ground so I put all three of those together on the ground. Still only locks and doesn't unlock or vice-versa. So close.

Does it matter that the ground isn't a ring? I got one of those U-shaped connectors. I can buy a ring if need be but I didn't think it was a big deal. Otherwise I'm just cruising forums looking for someone with the same problem.

Should I try using the violet wires or the brown/black and white black as the lock/unlock wires instead? That doesn't really make sense but the manual says polarity could be the problem so... I'm lost.

[CTScott]

Actually you were right. The constant 12v works there so I hooked in the violets and the red there and the dealer suggested it might be the ground so I put all three of those together on the ground. Still only locks and doesn't unlock or vice-versa. So close.

Does it matter that the ground isn't a ring? I got one of those U-shaped connectors. I can buy a ring if need be but I didn't think it was a big deal. Otherwise I'm just cruising forums looking for someone with the same problem.

Should I try using the violet wires or the brown/black and white black as the lock/unlock wires instead? That doesn't really make sense but the manual says polarity could be the problem so... I'm lost.

I don't understand what you mean by "I put all three of those together on the ground". Do you mean Black, Brown/Black and White/Black? (since they are the only wires that should be grounded).

A ring terminal doesn't matter as long as you are on a solid ground (for example the bolt under the driver's kick panel).

With the actuators, are they two wire? If so, Blue/Black should go to one of the two wires and Green/Black to the other.

[thorasaurus]

Yeah, sorry for not being clear. I wrapped black, black/white, and brown/black and put them into a u-shaped connector and then connected it to the ground bolt.

I'm thinking if maybe somehow there's not a good connection with the pink ignition cable, maybe the remote is programmed incorrectly. I'll figure something out hopefully.

And yeah, they are two wire actuators.

[CTScott]

Yeah, sorry for not being clear. I wrapped black, black/white, and brown/black and put them into a u-shaped connector and then connected it to the ground bolt.

I'm thinking if maybe somehow there's not a good connection with the pink ignition cable, maybe the remote is programmed incorrectly. I'll figure something out hopefully.

And yeah, they are two wire actuators.

I don't think so on the programming.

Disconnect the blue/black and green black wires from the actuators and measure the voltage between them.

It should be 0V with no button pressed and the +12 when one button (lock/unlock) is pressed and -12 when the other lock/unlock is pressed.

[TickleTimeTim]

how many parts are used in the coilibri kit? im finding all sorts of kits places, but none that have as many washers and brackets as that kit. how many are actually needed?

[thorasaurus]

Hey, good news! I got everything up and working. Turns out the tap splice to the ignition wire wasn't a good connection so while I had thought I had programmed it, I obviously hadn't. So once I got that programmed it now locks and unlocks. Hooray.

Time to tape everything up and put it back together.

Now to name my first child CT or Scott, kidding...

[thorasaurus]

how many parts are used in the coilibri kit? im finding all sorts of kits places, but none that have as many washers and brackets as that kit. how many are actually needed?

I got mine off fleabay but if you're going with A1, you'll need this kit I'm pretty sure (LINK (http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W02C-712T)) if you have a sedan; the two-door version if you have a coupe.

The yaris has cable-pull locks so you need special brackets to hold the cable sheath stationary while the actuator moves the cable (see the first post). That's what all the parts are for.

Good luck.

[Pitt Yaris]

Bought this kit and it came today. Took me four hours to do the first door, lol. Do the doors not lock or unlock after you have the kit completely assembled and tightened down? I only have the rear left door done, and the lock doesn't move when trying to do it manually.

[Pitt Yaris]

Well I got all my actuators, etc working. My question is. Where did you connect the red power wire to? The battery or is there somewhere under the dash I can connect it?

[Pitt Yaris]

Basically I can't figure out which open spot in the fuse box, under the dash to use to get the constant 12v of power.....???

[CTScott]

Check out my remote start DIY for a good location for a high current constant +12:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24860

[enviri]

hell might as well fatmat that door for a quieter ride ;P

[Pitt Yaris]

Well I finally finished installing the power locks and keyless entry. So far so good. Just hoping the lock cable doesn't snap anytime soon.

[MyzticZ3r0]

How much more difficult is it to install the security system if I ordered the package from A1electric with it?

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01F-740T

[CTScott]

How much more difficult is it to install the security system if I ordered the package from A1electric with it?

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01F-740T

I just recently installed a power lock kit with remote entry from A1electric and a power window kit from another vendor. Installing the actuators is the easy part, as compared with installing the keyless entry, remote start, or alarm module.

[MyzticZ3r0]

I just recently installed a power lock kit with remote entry from A1electric and a power window kit from another vendor. Installing the actuators is the easy part, as compared with installing the keyless entry, remote start, or alarm module.

From pictures, the actuators do look simple enough to install! The choice of installing an alarm, along with the power lock kit, is tempting! I *feel* like I can install the actuators, however, when it comes to an alarm, that is where I'm a bit weary. I think I'm going to order the power window kit and the power lock kit from a1electric sometime this week. I figured if I have the door panel off already, why not do both at the same time? :redface: At the same time, am I biting off more than I can chew?

[CTScott]

From pictures, the actuators do look simple enough to install! The choice of installing an alarm, along with the power lock kit, is tempting! I *feel* like I can install the actuators, however, when it comes to an alarm, that is where I'm a bit weary. I think I'm going to order the power window kit and the power lock kit from a1electric sometime this week. I figured if I have the door panel off already, why not do both at the same time? :redface: At the same time, am I biting off more than I can chew?

It definitely makes sense to do them at the same time, and the wiring is really pretty easy. I can walk you through any questions that you run into.

[MyzticZ3r0]

It definitely makes sense to do them at the same time, and the wiring is really pretty easy. I can walk you through any questions that you run into.

Thanks Scott! It's appreciated. I pulled the trigger - now the waiting game ^^"

[Mister-twister]

Did anyone try to use original switches with this after market kit? Where can I get wiring schematic for the master switch?
Thanks [emoji1317]


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[Mister-twister]

anyone have any info yet on how to convert the hatch on the liftback to power lock/unlock? I think power popping the hatch would be a major hassle, but I would at least like lock/unlock.



I did my wasn't easy in the beginning
But it's much simpler than it looks.


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