Odd Noise when breaking

[brotan1x]

I receently started hearing this sound. I took it into the dealer (carmax) but they could not find anything wrong with the brakes.

After driving about 35 to 45 minutes on the highway (when its good and warm)and then using the brakes I hear a wierd sound. Its actually sounds like what an 18 wheelers breaks sound like when breaking. Its clearly coming from the front of the car. It in no way sounds like grinding or bad break pads.

I am still under factory warranty.. However I am not sure how to explain it.. I am wondering if anyone else has experienced the sound. Might this be an undocumented/unadvertised feature?

THoughts?


Sheesh I feel like a idiot.. I spelled it breaking instead of braking.. What a goof I am.. .Please don't think less of me.

[silver_echo]

what brand of brake pads are on it? have the brakes been serviced? how many miles? OEM rotors? after market?

[brotan1x]

Unfortunatly I am a computer guy and not familiar enough with cars these days. The main reason I joined this site was to get more aquainted with the vehicle I owned.. (a major first for me)

Not sure about the components of the brake system. The parts look like brake components to me..

I bought it at Carmax about a month ago. I am at 26k miles right now. I am confident that Carmax replaced the brake pads before I got it but I have no way of confirming that notion. Carmax told me that the brakes look 'up to spec' when i took it in for the first oil change (yes I have already driven the first 3K and am being quite conservative)

Thanks for answering.. Your question gives me direction to go with when I go talk to Toyota dealer.

[jambo101]

If your car was driven by a person who was easy on the brakes the pads and rotors may have become glazed which results in weird groaning noises at low speeds and hissing noises at higher speeds,have your mechanic inspect and turn the rotors for you and dont let any one talk you into new rotors at that mileage.

[brotan1x]

Thanks for the responses guys. I am going to make an appointment with the Toyota dealer for next week.

Question--- If it is the 'glaze efect' that causes the groaning what would be the long term concern for me?

[Tamago]

go out and do some heavy panic stops on a deserted road. a couple 60-0 at threshold braking. you'll probably fix the problem yourself :) just don't do it where someone could rear-end you or you get spotted by the cops. they don't seem to understand these things

[jambo101]

go out and do some heavy panic stops on a deserted road. a couple 60-0 at threshold braking. you'll probably fix the problem yourself :) just don't do it where someone could rear-end you or you get spotted by the cops. they don't seem to understand these things

Thats the way to condition new brakes and rotors...

[Tamago]

Thats the way to condition new brakes and rotors...

yep, sure is

[1stToyota]

Last instructions I came across (I think from an expensive set of KVR rotors and pads?) said to use moderate force, 40-0mph, 5-6 times with about 1 mile pause between stops, then let cool for at least 1 hour.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

hmmm, I think I won't have a choice but to change my pads out at my mom's apartment instead of my place, so would I be able to do the bedding procedure within the confines of the parking lot?

[supmet]

Last instructions I came across (I think from an expensive set of KVR rotors and pads?) said to use moderate force, 40-0mph, 5-6 times with about 1 mile pause between stops, then let cool for at least 1 hour.

You don't wanna do 40-0, do 60-20. More force and you really don't wanna come to a complete stop with hot brakes. The carbotech rep said to do 60-20 and get back up to 60 about as fast as you can and then slam back down to 20 5 times in a row, wait a minute or two, and then do it again.

And no, you can't bed brakes in a parking lot. Best place is a track, but a good open road will do.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Damn it. hahahaha, that means I'm going to have to do it else where (and while in school, not what I hoped for). Probably at might old neighbor's place since there's an open road there.

[Yaris Hilton]

If you're using normal, not special racing, pads and are going to be driving relatively normally, no special breakin procedure is needed. Just drive and use your brakes normally.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

They're upgraded street pads. I'd rather be safe than sorry, so I'll follow the bedding procedures included with them.

[YarisSedan]

I think depending on where you are the law is all used cars sold have to have atleast 40% remaining brake pad lining left. If not they have to be replaced. Guess what most dealers do what we call in the industry as a "pad slap" Slapping some pads and typically the cheapest one to bring the vehicle up to standard meaning aftermarket non oem parts and not machining the brake rotor. Which usually results in brakes that take extremly long to break in.. Especially if the rotor is already glazed to begin with. And everything that you describe would lead me to believe that is what is going on. What could be done to remedy the situation would be to take the brake pads out. Lightly sand them to a flat surface and have the rotors turned. Then relube everything. When putting the brake pads back put a light coating of brake lube inbetween the brake shim and the pad and outside of the shim as well. That will help dampen any vibration.

[1stToyota]

Last instructions I came across (I think from an expensive set of KVR rotors and pads?) said to use moderate force, 40-0mph, 5-6 times with about 1 mile pause between stops, then let cool for at least 1 hour.

You don't wanna do 40-0, do 60-20. More force and you really don't wanna come to a complete stop with hot brakes. The carbotech rep said to do 60-20 and get back up to 60 about as fast as you can and then slam back down to 20 5 times in a row, wait a minute or two, and then do it again.

And no, you can't bed brakes in a parking lot. Best place is a track, but a good open road will do.

I was following manufacturer instructions, not listening to a rep...and my keyword was moderate force.

[TheSilkySmooth]

I wouldnt think the original pads would have been replaced at 24000. Might be A pebble stuck in caliper - or - the car was hit and rebuilt wrong. Or tires/wheel bearing since you said it get worse when it heats up. I hope you didnt pay full used retail ... Anyway the car is coverd still by the Toyota B>B warranty (I think).

[TheSilkySmooth]

I was following manufacturer instructions, not listening to a rep...and my keyword was moderate force. Why would you follow the MANUFACTURER's instruction and not the advice of this well seasoned Forum? ;)

[1stToyota]

Why would you follow the MANUFACTURER's instruction and not the advice of this well seasoned Forum? ;)

:biggrin:

Because I don't believe in the cram-n-slam method, I guess. A customer did that once to a brand new $800.00 brake job...said he did a few panic stop to cure his brakes just right (all 4 rotors were purple), within 30 minutes of paying and I happily informed him he voided any chance of future warranty. :clap:

I had to panic stop, once, from about 60-0 in my new Prelude (had less than 10k miles) because an idiot pulled out in front of me. Drove car home, which was about 5 miles away...and from that point on I couldn't hit the brakes above 55mph w/o getting runout feedback in the brake pedal, so the dealer resurfaced rotors and all was well.