Clutch shudder when setting off in 1st gear

[BuildCode]

I love this forum, just got my Yaris 900 miles ago!!!

My Yaris' clutch shudders when starting from a stop in 1st gear, and seems to mostly happen at 1500rpm. It doesn't at all seem like a 'low power' shudder, as if I were letting the clutch out at too low an RPM or something.
On my last car I would be totally off of the clutch under 1000rpm, I like to put as little wear on clutches as possible, which means starting off at lower RPMs and being fully engaged relatively quickly. What RPM should I be hitting the friction point of the clutch with?

The shudder is especially pronounced when I engage a little quicker than normal, and hold around 1500rpm while engaging.

Is my clutch still being broken in - was it not broken in correctly - what's going on!? I've been extremely careful on the clutch over the 900 miles I've had the car.

:bow:

I've searched and only saw one other thread with this problem and it didn't seem to match my issue.

[Tamago]

wheel hop?

[Yaris0609]

i had the same problem when i got my 09. give it a little while it will go away.

[Thirty-Nine]

So, FYI, my car does the same thing in first (I have 22,xxx miles on mine).

In addition, it does it in reverse quite badly. Anyone have the shudder in reverse issue?

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Yes, mine does it both in 1st and reverse.

[AND189]

yeh i am at 40,000 km and its bugs the hell out of me i think in fact it is a low power shudder because the higher the rpm the less it happens

[toast]

Yeah mine does that in 1st as well. It's a 2007 with nearly 30,000. Seems worse when it's cold. I think the yaris just prefers a higher rpm roll out.

[BuildCode]

It's been 1500 miles since I posted. Problem has 'gone away' but I think it's just that I learned how to set off without causing the shuddering. I still set off at a low RPM (put the engine around 1000 rpm and hit the friction point).

I don't like to try it since it feels bad for the car, but I think quicker engaging of the clutch at higher rpms (1500rpm) causes it.

It's weird I had to re-learn how to drive stick shift after driving stick for over 3 years in my previous car :)

[AlexNet0]

does it to me some, but its not the same shudder as when you don't give it enough power when starting out.

[ruimond]

Kinda happened to me in 1st on rare occasions, its when the clutch is released to early and there's not enough gas pedal action. Haha. Seems pretty normal from other peoples experiences.

[kargoboy]

I agree with a couple of other comments here, I think you are just letting out
the clutch too early and too quickly.

[ddongbap]

It happens when its cold. Then it goes away when the car starts to warm up. Its not because the clutch is being let out too early.

[PETERPOOP]

It happens when its cold. Then it goes away when the car starts to warm up. Its not because the clutch is being let out too early.

+1

happens to me. pisses me off.

[kac]

Yes, mine does it both in 1st and reverse.

me too...

[IllusionX]

ya.. the DBW changes the way you sync your left foot with your right foot. You just got to get used to it.

[yaris-me]

main cause DBW , not enough power to get the thing rolling. just give a tad more gas and the shudders disappears. as for the cold weather i think it influences the hydraulic fluid in the that actuates the clutch, the colder the weather the more "compressed" the fluid is therefore it takes slightly longer to actuate the clutch.

Hydraulic fluid cannot be compressed. That is why, it is hydraulic fluid. Colder weather may reduce the volume but not its ability to transfer force.:biggrin:

[thebarber]

it sounds like clutch chatter because you're slipping it too long...

[Thirty-Nine]

It's really interesting to hear so many people say they have the clutch shudder in 1st and reverse. In 1st, mine does go away once the car has warmed up. However, the reverse shudder is there all the time, no matter what speed.

[wooverstone8]

In 1st, mine does go away once the car has warmed up. However, the reverse shudder is there all the time, no matter what speed.

My Yaris does the exact same thing in 1st gear. Except the reverse gear seems to shudder a lot worst after the car is warmed up.

[Kioshi]

For the reverse shudder, I learned slowly let out the clutch, and gas a bit more at the same time. That helps for a smooth reverse. Yeah it seems like you will be clutch burning, but very little to even make an impact....

[darkmoon87]

i got used to starting without shuddering while giving the least amount of gas pedal action, but holy fuck...when I am in reverse gear it shudders like mad unless I give it a lot. lol...

[Kioshi]

but holy fuck...when I am in reverse gear it shudders like mad unless I give it a lot. lol...

Especially if you got (had) all 3 NST Underdrive pullies :laugh:
I took mine out and it shudders less in reverse when i forget to gas more..

[SaerinRhoe]

My liftback w/ manual just started this in the last month and it's very intermittent. The first time I noticed it was when it was raining so I thought that had something to do with it but I've noticed it when the engine/transmission is cold or warm and when the weather is wet or dry.

:(

S.R.

[ozmdd]

I agree with the previous posts that this seems to be related to clutch-engagement timing and rpm's rather than a design or clutch flaw. I've had no problems in either gear in 16,000 miles.

[tomato]

I don't get the shudder but Yaris's 1st and reverse are horrible IMO, 1st especially is really touchy. OK, maybe not horrible but not the greatest.

To engage smoothly in 1st, I find that I need to give it a little more gas than I would in another car.

[SilverBack]

main cause DBW , not enough power to get the thing rolling. just give a tad more gas and the shudders disappears

For the reverse shudder, I learned slowly let out the clutch, and gas a bit more at the same time. That helps for a smooth reverse. Yeah it seems like you will be clutch burning, but very little to even make an impact....

+1 for both. Also I find that if I start in 2nd and give it a little more gas the engagement has to be alot slower, which makes it much smoother (unless you're starting uphill).

It also helps to make sure the car is at a dead stop before throwing it in reverse. Puts less resistance on the clutch and avoids the embarrassing scraping sound :laugh:

[ddongbap]

Doesn't make sense though. The revs jump to the same point on the RPM gauge. Still shudders when its cold, and stops when its warm.

[SilverBack]

Like I said, drop the clutch much more slowly

I'm sure alot of other manual cars have the same issue, just like the sluggishness before the engine warms up

[kargoboy]

Doesn't make sense though. The revs jump to the same point on the RPM gauge. Still shudders when its cold, and stops when its warm.

That is a different problem, lots of cars experience a bit more of a clutch chatter when cold. The 2003 Protege which I also own is notorious for it.

The OP never said it only happened when it was cold, at least not that I saw.
That leads me to believe it's driver error, not a component flaw.

[AZflagstaff]

I noticed the same thing in my 2008 5speed Sedan, more so in reverse. I had to let off the clutch very slowly and really give it some gas to reverse w/o the car shaking and jerking. So really, I had to reverse with some speed, which isn't always possible when backing up. I just traded the sedan in for a 2010 5dr 5speed and starting off in 1st and reverse is much more smooth, as is shifting in general. I don't know if it's something Toyota improved since 08 & 09 but I am pleasantly surprised.:thumbup:

[frownonfun]

I agree with the previous posts that this seems to be related to clutch-engagement timing and rpm's rather than a design or clutch flaw. I've had no problems in either gear in 16,000 miles.

yeah i wouldn't think it's a clutch flaw as i have the TRD clutch and i still have the shudder in 1st and reverse.

to avoid the shudder i just gun it in 1st gear and try not to even use reverse if possible. like others have said, it does seem that 1st shudders a bit less when the car has had time to warm up but doesn't help the shudder in reverse.

[advocate]

Happens in first but not in reverse. I usually just throw the clutch back towards the floor, jam the gas, and release much faster :burnrubber:

problem solved

[Bob Dog]

If you are used to driving a 5 speed, it goes away just as quickly as you can learn to properly feather the Yaris' clutch

[ddongbap]

That is a different problem, lots of cars experience a bit more of a clutch chatter when cold. The 2003 Protege which I also own is notorious for it.

The OP never said it only happened when it was cold, at least not that I saw.
That leads me to believe it's driver error, not a component flaw.

True that.

If you are used to driving a 5 speed, it goes away just as quickly as you can learn to properly feather the Yaris' clutch

Thats assuming hes a bad driver, which you couldn't possibly know for fact.

[scape]

my car is a pain to put in reverse, very unforgiving compared to any other gear; even at complete standstill it sometimes won't drop into gear properly, or worse if I'm rolling even an inch you hear it scratch and chatter as it engages. once it is engaged, it's fine and dandy and feels solid.
in the morning, my first gear is very loosey goosey and does not grab well, but what I think the OP is experiencing is that the clutch not being fully engaged into position, and what's happening is probably slipping as you rev out expecting it to catch. I ride first gear partially engaged for a second or two, which seems to help (and I don't rev out hard unless I know it's fully engaged, and you'll know because if it isn't it will chatter and shudder like that or you'll have seemingly less pickup and smell hell for the next few minutes).

[why?]

I just hate the Yaris' clutch. Way too light and just horrible. You definately need to rev it more in first gear than any other car i've driven. I can't tell you how many times I've stalled it... grrr.

[Thirty-Nine]

I just hate the Yaris' clutch. Way too light and just horrible. You definately need to rev it more in first gear than any other car i've driven. I can't tell you how many times I've stalled it... grrr.

Wow--I haven't seen you around here in a long time!

Anyway, I just hope that the clutch shudder does not become a problem with durability. The reason I got rid of my 2005 Scion xB was because of clutch issues (throw out bearing replaced three times).

To me, I guess the reverse gear is actually more of an issue than 1st. No matter what or when, it chatters like crazy, unless you gun it ... not great going backwards. Well, not usually.

[AmyV]

See, I never have a problem with stalling or anything. I am kinda known for flying in my Yaris... even from a dead stop. I get a shudder, feels like tire shudder or maybe even a rev limiter kicking in, but I'm not high enough to have that!!! I usually let my foot off the gas for a quick second and everything 'catches up' and evens out. I've had the car for more than 34k miles. Did it from day 1, still does it now. Don't know if that is the same problem that any of you guys have been having. :iono:

Overall, doesn't bother me too much though.

And I guess I am a lucky one... no probs in reverse.

[AlexNet0]

my car is a pain to put in reverse, very unforgiving compared to any other gear; even at complete standstill it sometimes won't drop into gear properly, or worse if I'm rolling even an inch you hear it scratch and chatter as it engages. once it is engaged, it's fine and dandy and feels solid.
in the morning, my first gear is very loosey goosey and does not grab well, but what I think the OP is experiencing is that the clutch not being fully engaged into position, and what's happening is probably slipping as you rev out expecting it to catch. I ride first gear partially engaged for a second or two, which seems to help (and I don't rev out hard unless I know it's fully engaged, and you'll know because if it isn't it will chatter and shudder like that or you'll have seemingly less pickup and smell hell for the next few minutes).


try putting it in 1st gear first, then going to reverse.

[BuildCode]

I know the reverse shudder you guys are talking about, but this is totally different :)

I'm not sure how to better describe it, but I haven't had it happen at all now that I learned how to drive Yaris-Stick-Shift®, It's re-assuring to see so many people notice this at least sometimes!

[Wattz]

Clutches are designed with slippage in mind. If that is not built into the car then the designers weren't thinking far enough ahead.

Dumping the clutch is a shock to the rest of the drive train. The initial (breakaway) torque is much higher and stresses the components down the line. When initial torque is low (ie. when you feather the clutch) the stress on the passive drive train components is much lower.

You should really be trying to make your ride as smooth as possible, since that is what modern passenger vehicles are designed for. That means feathering the clutch into 1st, probably 2nd, and also probably 3rd. 4th and 5th gears tend to be at such a high ratio (>1) that they don't put much load on the engine.

All that aside, my 3rd gear requires a bit more force to shift into than all of the other gears (except reverse.) 1, 2, 4, and 5 pretty much slide right in, but 3rd requires more of a push to put it there. I bought the car used, so I'm hoping that it's just a quirk and not something that the previous owner did.

[tomato]

Hey, Wattz, welcome to the forum!!

I bought mine used, too, with 55K miles; 2d, 3rd, 4th and 5th are PERFECT (knock on wood). First is a pain, real stiff, especially first thing in the morning.

Here is an article on clutch control in Wikipedia, in case anyone is interested.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clutch_control

[fastscutr]

I had the same clutch shutter develop at around 17k miles. Dealer "couldn't reproduce the issue". 20k miles, shutter went away, turned into slippage when under throttle alone. Brought it into the dealer ready for a big battle (they were much better about it this time around). Turns out there is a faulty seal in the tranny which leaks oil into the bell housing - clutch and flywheel destroyed. Toyota knows about this issue, the replacement seal is a different one (and requires tranny to be pulled apart to replace). Clutch shuttering is not normal, bring your car in and make them fix it. I just hope the new seal holds up, its almost a $2k repair bill at the dealership if out of warranty

[BuildCode]

I had the same clutch shutter develop at around 17k miles. Dealer "couldn't reproduce the issue". 20k miles, shutter went away, turned into slippage when under throttle alone. Brought it into the dealer ready for a big battle (they were much better about it this time around). Turns out there is a faulty seal in the tranny which leaks oil into the bell housing - clutch and flywheel destroyed. Toyota knows about this issue, the replacement seal is a different one (and requires tranny to be pulled apart to replace). Clutch shuttering is not normal, bring your car in and make them fix it. I just hope the new seal holds up, its almost a $2k repair bill at the dealership if out of warranty

Wow interesting. I will keep that in mind if it shudders any more. I have less than 4,000 miles on my Yaris, and the extended warranty, so for now I'm safe :wink: Thank you for the heads up

[toast]

I had the same clutch shutter develop at around 17k miles. Dealer "couldn't reproduce the issue". 20k miles, shutter went away, turned into slippage when under throttle alone. Brought it into the dealer ready for a big battle (they were much better about it this time around). Turns out there is a faulty seal in the tranny which leaks oil into the bell housing - clutch and flywheel destroyed. Toyota knows about this issue, the replacement seal is a different one (and requires tranny to be pulled apart to replace). Clutch shuttering is not normal, bring your car in and make them fix it. I just hope the new seal holds up, its almost a $2k repair bill at the dealership if out of warranty

This is interesting. Were you also noticing tranny fluid leak or not?

[fastscutr]

This is interesting. Were you also noticing tranny fluid leak or not?


nope, it seemed to be isolated in the bell housing - unfortunately means dopping the tranny to check. At first I thought it was just being difficult because of the varying throttle response, but then realized it was all clutch. The service manager had seen so few manuals, he was unaware of the issue. He heard about it after contacting some regional rep sorta person guy.

When I got the car back, it felt more solid than when I first bought the car. New clutch engagement point was right at the floor, seemed a little weird, but felt like all the power was getting to the wheels. Now, a few weeks later, the engagement point is quite a bit higher and feels like a more "normal" engagement point. Not sure if this shift is normal break in for a new clutch or if its a bad sign of things to come. I sure hope it's the former.

ooon look, a vomit emoticon, neaT :barf:



EDIT: Forgot to mention, this was a definite clutch shudder with throttle applied, not the shaking one feels when bogging the engine down by not providing enough throttle

[Thirty-Nine]

Wow, this is very interesting. Perhaps I will bring the 'ol Yaris in afterall.

Honestly, it makes me a little gunshy. My 2005 xB had transmission issues. Throwout bearing went at 28,000 miles. Clutch was slipping, too. I ended up having the t/o bearing replaced three times, new clutch, new bell housing. Total time at the dealership was about 3-5 weeks. This is why I ended up trading it in on the Yaris.

[BuildCode]

EDIT: Forgot to mention, this was a definite clutch shudder with throttle applied, not the shaking one feels when bogging the engine down by not providing enough throttle

Yep, exactly, this is what I think I had a hard time explaining in this thread lol, you know what I'm talking about!

[2009BBPliftback]

Just give it the full beans it won't shudder!

[SilverGlow]

Burnt clutch, warped pressure plate....this studdering can happen....often caused by new drivers of manual trannys, or anyone that does not know how to shift properly.

[2009BBPliftback]

I've never had any issues with any of the 3 manual transmission toyota's I've owned my 87 mr2 is still good. I put 65k on my first gen xB and 6k on my yaris. They all have performed well without incident.

[Thirty-Nine]

Burnt clutch, warped pressure plate....this studdering can happen....often caused by new drivers of manual trannys, or anyone that does not know how to shift properly.

Well, I've been driving nothing but manual transmission cars for more than 15 years, and have never had any clutch issues other than my xB and the shuddering problem with the Yaris.

I will probably take the car in this week and see what my local dealer has to say. FYI, I have 23,500 miles on my Yaris; warranty ends in August.

[fastscutr]

Just give it the full beans it won't shudder!

agreed, nice complete slippage, shudder requires it to grip a little

[Zaphod]

I know the reverse shudder you guys are talking about, but this is totally different :)

I'm not sure how to better describe it, but I haven't had it happen at all now that I learned how to drive Yaris-Stick-Shift®, It's re-assuring to see so many people notice this at least sometimes!

LoL ... my experience as well.

[Thirty-Nine]

FYI, I will be bringing my Yaris in for this on Monday, leaving it, and having the dealer look at it on Tuesday. Let's hope they can fix it, and don't just tell me its A) my fault or B) my mods.

[BuildCode]

FYI, I will be bringing my Yaris in for this on Monday, leaving it, and having the dealer look at it on Tuesday. Let's hope they can fix it, and don't just tell me its A) my fault or B) my mods.

Let us know what they say. As a follow up, I've gotten on my Yaris pretty good a few times (in addition to normal driving), the shudder is most certainly gone! I really think it had something to do with clutch break in, and now at 5,000 miles it's long broken in.

[woof]

The clutch chatter in my Yaris has gotten to be a real issue. So many of you have reported it that you should take a clue: defective design! My xB1 did not have this bad of a problem.

Here's what I think:

The Yaris is geared taller than my xB so it doesn't have the same mechanical advantage when pulling the car off the line.

The Yaris fly-by-wire ECU was designed to sip as little fuel as possible. Makes it easier to kill, especially with the dead feel of the clutch and throttle.

My clutch chatter just got worse over time and my dealer will not recognize it as a problem which tells me it's an "unknown" problem. (Nothing official.)

[Thirty-Nine]

The clutch chatter in my Yaris has gotten to be a real issue. So many of you have reported it that you should take a clue: defective design! My xB1 did not have this bad of a problem.

Here's what I think:

The Yaris is geared taller than my xB so it doesn't have the same mechanical advantage when pulling the car off the line.

The Yaris fly-by-wire ECU was designed to sip as little fuel as possible. Makes it easier to kill, especially with the dead feel of the clutch and throttle.

My clutch chatter just got worse over time and my dealer will not recognize it as a problem which tells me it's an "unknown" problem. (Nothing official.)


FYI, I did have clutch issues in my xB1. They replaced the throw-out bearing twice. Clutch was slipping badly at 28,000 miles. (I'm currently at 23,000 on my Yaris)

I just hope it's an easy fix.

[Lucas13]

Sometimes happens to me but only when it’s cold, and if I release the clutch too quick I get the shudder in reverse is even trickier, but when the engine is warm it doesn't happen to me, I try to drive it softly while it warms up and it happens much less



I’ve driven all my life stick, this where my cars in the past and I experienced it in all of them


2007 Yaris LB (current)

2003 Nissan 350Z

2005 Scion TC

2001 Daewoo Lanos Sport

1989 Honda Accord 2 DR

1996 Renault Twingo


For the Yaris and The Scion TC I had to re adjust to the clutch. It took me like a month to feel comfortable with the clutch.

Is also good to mention that this feeling sometimes can be confused with a flywheel that needs must be resurfaced or replaced, this can happen due to exesive heat when clutch is not used properly or abused.

[Thirty-Nine]

I just got a call from Toyota. Looks like they're redoing the entire clutch.

- Clutch disc
- Flywheel
- Throwout bearing
- Clutch cover

Wow ... more updates later.

[Thirty-Nine]

Just an update: I was reading through the dealer's paperwork they gave me, and it did say "warped pressure plate."

[fastscutr]

clutch is now starting to slip for me again after about 3k miles since last replaced under warrantee. Occasionally getting locked out of 5th (don't even feel the shift gate when that happens). Like the other time, dealer won't do anything till it gets real bad and destroys the flywheel... It is still under warranty, but no longer fits my needs as reliable transportation - think its time for a new car... (2010 Subaru WRX :D )
Can't believe I have a British car that has proven to be more reliable (powered by Toyota engine/tranny though) ;P
I wish you all the best of luck in getting a final long term solution to this problem

[ddongbap]

So I installed the TRD roll stopper mount. Shudder went away.

[mick.wheelz]

My yaris has over 100,000km (~60,000mi) on it now, and does this in 1st when it is cold... only if you let it out either too fast, or dont give it enough gas.

The car is on its orig. clutch, so i doubt it causes any long term reliability issues.

[yaris2010RS]

i find the same problem. i have learned to master 1st but revers....fml man, i back up on my drive way (up hill) and unless i'm riding clutch hard and RPMs atleast 1500 or doing 40km in reverse it looks, feels and sounds very bad.

also with the gearing ratio i find its awkward to slow down and take off again but not stop. too fast for 1st, too slow for second...... any advice? (other then learn how to drive, lol)

[DerFlosser]

..also with the gearing ratio i find its awkward to slow down and take off again but not stop. too fast for 1st, too slow for second...... any advice? (other then learn how to drive, lol)...

I definitely find this to be evident! I usually just shift into second and give gas but the car really doesn't want to go into 1st gear unless stopped.

[yaris2010RS]

I definitely find this to be evident! I usually just shift into second and give gas but the car really doesn't want to go into 1st gear unless stopped.

i find it makes right turns very awkward and red lights that magically turn green a nightmare.... almost feels like its gonna stall. and today i decided to try and ride the clutch a bit.....this will not fix anything, make alot of noise then bounce. lol. guess we gonna have to live with it or change the gears.....

[dennischan0919]

TSB 0068-09 Transverse Engine Mount-Abnormal noise and Vibration on Acceleration

[BuildCode]

i find it makes right turns very awkward and red lights that magically turn green a nightmare.... almost feels like its gonna stall. and today i decided to try and ride the clutch a bit.....this will not fix anything, make alot of noise then bounce. lol. guess we gonna have to live with it or change the gears.....

I sometimes double clutch to get into 1st gear easier... i.e. clutch out, raise RPMs 500-1000 higher than idle, clutch in and shift into 1st gear at a slow rolling speed. This is all at below 5mph speeds of course.

[yaris2010RS]

so u release clutch then rev a bit to get it aprox 2000RPM and then depress clutch and 1st? tomorrow on my way to school will definatly give it a shot.... lol

[yaris2010RS]

something i noticed on my way home today tring to glide down a hill, possibally completly off topic but still has to do with clutch. i was driving down the road at crusing speed 100 KM/H and around 2,500RPM, so i depressed the clutch shifted to neutrel (no gear) and let go of clutch. i watched my RPMs drop to 1,000 then 500(my normal idle) then jump up to 1,500 and kept bouncing from 500 - 1,500. this only happens if i'm off the clutch and in no gear, if i'm holding clutch it wont bounce around. i took a video so if u dont exactly follow what i'm saying follow link

i'm sorry, its very bad quality and uber long, lol, i started messing around after a while, lol. and since my right hand (shifter hand) was holding phone made for a very bad experience. lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEb1NY1xSXU

[BuildCode]

so u release clutch then rev a bit to get it aprox 2000RPM and then depress clutch and 1st? tomorrow on my way to school will definatly give it a shot.... lol

Less than that: 1,000 or 1,500 rpm. You'll know it's right when you can shift into first with zero resistance :)

something i noticed on my way home today tring to glide down a hill, possibally completly off topic but still has to do with clutch. i was driving down the road at crusing speed 100 KM/H and around 2,500RPM, so i depressed the clutch shifted to neutrel (no gear) and let go of clutch. i watched my RPMs drop to 1,000 then 500(my normal idle) then jump up to 1,500 and kept bouncing from 500 - 1,500.

I don't put mine in neutral at that high of a speed, but from 40mph (60kmh) my revs will bob once or twice, but not as many times as yours did in the video. I don't worry about it, at all.

[PHXDEMON]

This isn't a defect or an issue. It is "shuddering" because the first and revers gears don't have syncros. The yaris motor has almost no will to live so in first gear you have to get the RPM's up a little and feather the clutch properly. Problem solved.

[PHXDEMON]

I just got a call from Toyota. Looks like they're redoing the entire clutch.

- Clutch disc
- Flywheel
- Throwout bearing
- Clutch cover

Wow ... more updates later.


Nice. Maybe I should take mine in and claim I am having "shudder" issues :cool:

[yaris2010RS]

i don't put mine in neutral at that high of a speed, but from 40mph (60kmh) my revs will bob once or twice, but not as many times as yours did in the video. I don't worry about it, at all.

lol, wasn't really too worried about it and probably not gonna do it too often either. lol. just one day on the highway going down hill and decided to try it.
jsut wondering if it has to do with the constant revving at idle which i do find very annoying.

my friend sudgested it has to do with cold wind coming in and the engine trying to keep going or resistance the tranny is putting it in even in no gear.

[yaris2010RS]

and i gotta take blueberry in soon too...... after the recent toyota recalls i find my clutch can do the same..... happened to me a few times...... not too much of an issue but still

[tk-421]

I'm starting to have shudder issues myself... The weird part is that I have already swapped my clutch once (ACT Stage 1)... Starting to wonder if the tranny fluid is leaking...

Another weird thing is that sometimes I will get a bit of grinding when I downshift from 3rd to 2nd gear (while engine-braking), even if my clutch is completely engaged (foot all the way down).

:confused:

[yaris2010RS]

I am personally beginning to question the hydraulic fluid....

[Thirty-Nine]

TRD clutch is in, no more shudder in 1st. I'll have to check out reverse and see if it's gone or reduced.

I am getting a bit of a squeaking noise in 1st. I talked to the technician that did the install, and he said there would be a 100 mile break-in period, and that the noise should go away. I'll be sure to hold them to that.

[Thirty-Nine]

This isn't a defect or an issue. It is "shuddering" because the first and revers gears don't have syncros. The yaris motor has almost no will to live so in first gear you have to get the RPM's up a little and feather the clutch properly. Problem solved.

I find this hard to believe. No syncros in first or reverse? If there was no syncro in first, you'd have to come to a complete stop to downshift into it, which you can do (although it's not something I do on a regular basis).

Someone correct me if I'm wrong ...

[BuildCode]

I find this hard to believe. No syncros in first or reverse? If there was no syncro in first, you'd have to come to a complete stop to downshift into it, which you can do (although it's not something I do on a regular basis).

Someone correct me if I'm wrong ...

I'd like to know this as well...reverse probably doesn't have syncros.

However, a lack of syncros would not cause a shudder.

[PHXDEMON]

I find this hard to believe. No syncros in first or reverse? If there was no syncro in first, you'd have to come to a complete stop to downshift into it, which you can do (although it's not something I do on a regular basis).

Someone correct me if I'm wrong ...

That's just what I have heard :iono: You have to bring it damn near to a stop to pop into first wuithout a rough shift.

[eventnis]

it probably the "#$#% drive by wire system.thats the only thing that pisses me off with this car.

[woof]

This shudder (chatter) seems to be a design flaw just like the "Big Foot Mod" and the imprecise throttle tip-in that causes rough shifts and stalling.

I drove a 5-speed xB for 50K miles before trading for my Yaris and it has been a nightmare with the Yaris. The xB was nearly flawless at 50K and I never had clutch chatter or shifting problems.

And yes, first gear has a synchro on it. It just doesn't work worth a damn.

[Thirty-Nine]

UPDATE: Just a bit over a month since the clutch was installed, and I've noticed some fluid on the ground under the car.

Got under there, and it looks like the transmission case is leaking some oil. My guess is the tech got a bad seal.

Back to the dealership on Thursday ...

[09SedanPolarWhiteMT]

Happens to me, my car just rolled over 10K miles. I've noticed it since like 4,000 miles, I drive like you, I try to start with as low RPMs as possible. I thought I was skidding the tires at first but it's happened on flat, dry, gravel-free surfaces. I do not feel any erratic resistance in the clutch, just the lurching of the car. Wonder what's causing it.

[Yaris_Mac]

Sorry for bringing this thread back to life but is there a fix for this? I've been driving manual tranny since 1992 and this is the worse 1st and reverse gear. My 1976 corolla had better 1st/reverse than this Yaris. Please advise. Thanks!

[tmontague]

A permanent fix would be getting a better aftermarket clutch.

Other than that bleeding the slave cylinder helps but it only last a few weeks.