DIY Cruise Control on 07-08 Yaris (step by step)

[Vince87]

Hi all ! as promised in the other thread, here's a Step by Step DIY for the Cruise Control installation (swith method) on 07-08 liftback Yaris (should be pretty similar on the sedan)...

I just to say a special thanks to CTScott for the discovery, the instructions and for his help through the process and also to nickhjort for being the guinea pig for this model.

Enjoy !

[jetaimejsc]

awesome and thanks. Im finally going to do it!

[goku87]

sweeeet. ive been waiting for this.

[flutie98]

AWESOME! Will be doing this next week.

Anyone know a good place to source the clutch M/T switch needed?

[slothman86]

wow! I should have waited for this!

[CTScott]

Excellent job with the write-up! Now, we just need someone to do one for using the OEM stalk.

[goku87]

once i find one i'll get right on that. :D

[flutie98]

CTScott,

Is there any 12v signal that goes high from the ECU on the 07LB when you hit the on button? I would like to wire in a indicator LED

[goku87]

would the stalk for the sedan be the same as the hb?

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214001&chapter=&sectionids=0,2413&groupid=2442&subgroupid=2577&make=34&model=Yaris&year=2008&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

[julienrl]

Hello, I wanted to do this but could not find the parts (even with the part numbers) for the covers\panels on the dash (so I can swap it for the normal one if I take the car in for servicing or something or want to sell the car as a trade in in the future), so I made the mirror cover one myself! It happens to be a hobby of mine to make plastic objects \ casting and molding, so if anyone needs a mirror cover, the master mold is made, and since that was the expensive part, i can make them for pretty cheap if anyone wants one for 10$ shipping anywhere included :). Takes about 24 to have one made and ready so it could be sent pretty quickly.

[IllusionX]

I have YET to meet up with PK1980 for the cruise stalk :(

[nick.dollimount]

OMG I found something that would be PERFECT for this!

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/1691409-switch-4-way-hat-500-526.html

I'm very excited now! =D

[julienrl]

that is pretty sweet, but 37$... buy an old gamecube controller and use the joystick on that or something lol :p

[CTScott]

That is very cool. I bought a bunch of different types of 4-way joystick switches to experiment with, but they were all too hard to package into something usable. The only downside is that at that price, it's more expensive than an OEM eBay cruise stalk.

[julienrl]

more expensive than an ORM ebay cruise stalk? where do people find these cheap stalks???? I only found 100$+ ones :(

[nick.dollimount]

I'm sure I could find a cheaper version at a local shop... going to check one out my friends suggests maybe today or tomorrow.

CTScott,
Does this diagram suit the setup? I know it's not proper... I don't know what diagrams really should look like and all I had was a screenshot from the pdf and Paint to work with :thumbup:

[CTScott]

I'm sure I could find a cheaper version at a local shop... going to check one out my friends suggests maybe today or tomorrow.

CTScott,
Does this diagram suit the setup? I know it's not proper... I don't know what diagrams really should look like and all I had was a screenshot from the pdf and Paint to work with :thumbup:

Correct.

[CTScott]

more expensive than an ORM ebay cruise stalk? where do people find these cheap stalks???? I only found 100$+ ones :(


Check out this post for a list of vehicles that all use the same stalk:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=357429&postcount=487

[CTScott]

Here's one for $25:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/scion-tc-cruise-control-switch_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14Q QhashZitem4ceabb0debQQitemZ330355641835QQptZMotors Q5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[nick.dollimount]

Nice! I'm very excited to add this in =D I like the idea of the little 4-way switch more than the stalk though. Will look much cleaner =D **stoked**

[CTScott]

Nice! I'm very excited to add this in =D I like the idea of the little 4-way switch more than the stalk though. Will look much cleaner =D **stoked**

I wonder if it is mechanically limited to the 90 degree positions or if you can accidentally press two switches at the same time with a 45 degree motion?

[nick.dollimount]

I wonder if it is mechanically limited to the 90 degree positions or if you can accidentally press two switches at the same time with a 45 degree motion?

From the specs below, I would guess that it's only one at a time? I'll have to make sure about that when I'm going to check out that parts store. I'm sure if it closed two connections at once, that would be bad?

Technical/Catalog Information 500-526
Vendor APEM Components
Category Switches
Type Navigation Switch, PCB Mount
Actuator Type 4-Way Selector
Switch Function 2 Axis
Output Mechanical Switch
Operating Force 100gf
Contact Rating @ Voltage 0.05A @ 24VDC
Termination Style PC Pin
Lead Free Status Lead Free
RoHS Status RoHS Compliant
Other Names 500 526
500526
679 2289 ND
6792289ND
679-2289

[CTScott]

I noticed in the PDF that it says actuation at 90 degree positions, which hopefully means that only one can be closed at a time. If more than one could be, then you could be trying to bump it up with the + and accidentally hit off.

[nick.dollimount]

Yeah, that would be counter productive :P

[nickhjort]

Wow, awesome job on the write-up man. I wish I could have done it, but I'm not that organized :) and flutie98...CTScott put together an LED module (that I still have yet to install...sorry scott) :( But I will get to it soon and do pics and a small write up on it so he can sell em to you guys and you can install them.

[yaris-me]

Thank you, Vince87 and CTScott. This is my next project.:thumbsup:

[nick.dollimount]

Woot! My clutch switch is in the shop today; picking it up tomorrow. I'll probably do this up on Sunday, as long as I can get the switch and resistors on Sunday.

[yaris-me]

I couldn't find the resistors 290 and 340. Are those the correct values? They also had 1/4, 1/2 and 1 watt resistors. Which wattage?

[CTScott]

I couldn't find the resistors 290 and 340. Are those the correct values? They also had 1/4, 1/2 and 1 watt resistors. Which wattage?

It's actually 240 and 390.

You can use any value within these ranges:
216 to 264 ohms for one between resume and on/off
351 to 426 ohms for the one between set and resume
819 to 1001 ohms for the one between set and cancel

For wattage, 1/8 or 1/4 watt is fine.

[yaris-me]

It's actually 240 and 390.

You can use any value within these ranges:
216 to 264 ohms for one between resume and on/off
351 to 426 ohms for the one between set and resume
819 to 1001 ohms for the one between set and cancel

For wattage, 1/8 or 1/4 watt is fine.

Thanks!:thumbsup:

[toocool79]

Just installed the factory cruise parts. I used all new parts from TRDSPARKS, Very easy install. On my 09 3dr. liftback w/manual trans. Yes the icons in the cluster work also!.THANKS to all that provided part #s and insite.

[Vince87]

Hey just a quick question for you guys: has anyone done it on a 2006 yaris? I thought it was still the Echo, hence I wrote in the DIY that it was for the 07-08...

[CTScott]

Hey just a quick question for you guys: has anyone done it on a 2006 yaris? I thought it was still the Echo, hence I wrote in the DIY that it was for the 07-08...

06 should be the same as 07-08. Echos ended in 05. Canada got the Yaris in 06, and the US in 07.

[opt101]

Hi, Does anyone have the radio shack resistor part numbers by chance... Would love to try this mod, I just got my 2007 yaris yesterday, and no cruise is a bummer for my 60 mile commute, thanks in advance!

[julienrl]

Hi, Does anyone have the radio shack resistor part numbers by chance... Would love to try this mod, I just got my 2007 yaris yesterday, and no cruise is a bummer for my 60 mile commute, thanks in advance!

radioshack usually sells reisitors in packs, not individually. I used a 300 resistor pack (3 or 4$) and just combined the ones I needed to get the appropriate resistance, but this is long and requires a multimeter or reading all teh color codes (even worse). Your best bet is Digikey.

[CTScott]

If you buy the 500 piece "value pack" for $12.99 you get an assortment that includes 220 ohms, 390 ohms, and 1K ohms.

If you buy them as the 5 packs for $0.99 each, you can get 220 ohms (271-011) and 1K ohms (271-004), but not something in the range of 351 to 426 ohms. Although, You can buy a pack of 150 ohm resistors (271-010) and use one of those in series with one of the 220 ohm ones to get 370 ohms.

[opt101]

I just need the simple one in the diagram, on/off and set as I drive 55 mph straight and there really isn't any need for the 4 button set up. So if I get the value pack, it will have the 390 but will it have the 240 ohm that’s depicted in the picture, where do I get that one,

[opt101]

also, can anyone point out the d3 connector better, I spent 20 minutes looking for it, I found the main section with all the plugs is it located there, or somewhere else. Sorry I'm very new to this car, thanks in advance.

[CTScott]

also, can anyone point out the d3 connector better, I spent 20 minutes looking for it, I found the main section with all the plugs is it located there, or somewhere else. Sorry I'm very new to this car, thanks in advance.

If you look at my original DIY on this there is a picture that shows D3 clearly:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17158&highlight=DIY+cruise

[CTScott]

I just need the simple one in the diagram, on/off and set as I drive 55 mph straight and there really isn't any need for the 4 button set up. So if I get the value pack, it will have the 390 but will it have the 240 ohm that’s depicted in the picture, where do I get that one,

If you are doing the two switch method, then you really just need one resistor in the 567-693 ohm range. The Value pack includes a 680 ohm resistor which would be perfect.

Out of curiosity, where in CT are you? I am in Southbury and have an inventory of literally thousands of resistors.

[opt101]

Thanks for the better diagram CTScott, now I know where it is, I'm located just out side New Haven.

[YamilR]

CTScott, If you're willing to sell the switches and the resistors all ready wired for the two switches configuration, I'll be willing to buy them of you.

[opt101]

CTScott, would these resistors work?

Radio shack part # 271-1117
680 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5

or do I need the ones in the value pack,

also will these switches work.

Radio shack part # 275-1571
SPST 0.5-Amp Momentary Switch (2-Pack)
One red and one black. Rated 0.5 amps at 125VAC and mounts in a 3/8" hole.


or are these better

Radio shack part # 275-609
3A 250VAC momentary switches normally open

And my last question, if the vehicle goes for service, I assume all this would have to be pulled out as it would most likley void the warranty? Thanks in advance.

[CTScott]

CTScott, would these resistors work?

Radio shack part # 271-1117
680 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5

or do I need the ones in the value pack,

also will these switches work.

Radio shack part # 275-1571
SPST 0.5-Amp Momentary Switch (2-Pack)
One red and one black. Rated 0.5 amps at 125VAC and mounts in a 3/8" hole.


or are these better

Radio shack part # 275-609
3A 250VAC momentary switches normally open

And my last question, if the vehicle goes for service, I assume all this would have to be pulled out as it would most likley void the warranty? Thanks in advance.

680 Ohms is fine. The 1/2 watt resistors are physically larger, but are fine.

For the switches either is fine. I used 275-644, but really any normally open momentary switch is fine. You are switching 0 current, so the rating really doesn't matter.

As far as warranty goes; Unless the dealer can prove that your DIY cruise control actually caused something to fail, they can't say that you voided the warranty.

[CTScott]

CTScott, If you're willing to sell the switches and the resistors all ready wired for the two switches configuration, I'll be willing to buy them of you.

I could. I would just have to find switches that mount from the rear, rather than front, so you could just drill your holes, poke the switches through, connect the wires, and cruise.

One of the switches that Opto101 mentioned above, would work for that:

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160455w345.jpg

[opt101]

the ones pictured above are tiny, just got back from radio shack and after seeing them in person, I went with the 275-644

http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160417w345.jpg

Much better option

Off to find pin 40 now, will update with photos and status

[opt101]

Worked out great!!! Thanks to everyone, especially CTScott for the further incite, and everyone else who made the how to pdf! I opted for the 2 button set up as I drive a set speed during my commute. The parts where easily obtained from my local radio shack.

Parts list:

Qty (1) Radio shack part # 271-1117 680 Ohm 1/2W Resistor

Qty (2) Radio shack part # 275-644 3A 125V SPST Pushbutton

12 Feet of wire

Ground loop terminal

All together I was just under 15 bucks

I used the grommet on top of the ECU for easy access to the interior.

My only concern is I put the wire into pin 40 and let a couple strands come out the end of the main harness connector as depicted, re connected it to the ecu, but I was wondering will the wire in pin 40 just stay there, should I try to put that rubber piece I removed on the side of the wire so to make sure it stays put or don't worry about it?

Here is my dash install
http://www.atzinsurance.com/pics/IMG00158.jpg


I also used a hot glue gun to make sure everything stays put behind trim piece.
http://www.atzinsurance.com/pics/IMG00159.jpg

:w00t:

[CTScott]

For the pin 40 connection, the ideal thing would be to use one of the actual waterproof pins for that connector. You can actually purchase the terminal, with a wire pre-crimped to it from Toyota:
82998-24250 is a single wire with the terminal and waterproof plug for connecting to the ECM.

Otherwise, I would at the very least put a dab of silicone where the wire enters the connector to keep moisture out.

[flutie98]

For the pin 40 connection, the ideal thing would be to use one of the actual waterproof pins for that connector. You can actually purchase the terminal, with a wire pre-crimped to it from Toyota:
82998-24250 is a single wire with the terminal and waterproof plug for connecting to the ECM.

Otherwise, I would at the very least put a dab of silicone where the wire enters the connector to keep moisture out.

I just ordered this part and attempted to install it. I think it might be the wrong part #, its just a little big and will not fully seat in the connector. And let me tell you I tried to force it in there.

[CTScott]

I just ordered this part and attempted to install it. I think it might be the wrong part #, its just a little big and will not fully seat in the connector. And let me tell you I tried to force it in there.

Can you snap some pictures? There are three pins for the A21 connector. 82998-24250 is the smallest width of the three. The two others are for the wider width pins.

Also, the pin will only fully insert in one position. If it is flipped over, it will go in most of the way, but will not seat.

[flutie98]

Can you snap some pictures? There are three pins for the A21 connector. 82998-24250 is the smallest width of the three. The two others are for the wider width pins.

Also, the pin will only fully insert in one position. If it is flipped over, it will go in most of the way, but will not seat.

Ill snap some pics when i get home from work. I tried all 4 orientations and the one that seats the most still is not fully in.

[Soylentglass]

I posted yesterday the results of my install on my 09 manual sedan and at first I ran into the same problem with the repair terminal not fitting. I ripped the waterproofing sleeve trying to jam it in with fine needle nose pliers.

My post is at the end of http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16188&page=30

On connector A21 there is a locking mechanism that you must push to one side to allow the terminal to slide in place and yes it would only go in one way, which happened to be the 4th position I tried. You then push back the white plastic slide piece and it will lock the terminal in place.

[flutie98]

I posted yesterday the results of my install on my 09 manual sedan and at first I ran into the same problem with the repair terminal not fitting. I ripped the waterproofing sleeve trying to jam it in with fine needle nose pliers.

My post is at the end of http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16188&page=30

On connector A21 there is a locking mechanism that you must push to one side to allow the terminal to slide in place and yes it would only go in one way, which happened to be the 4th position I tried. You then push back the white plastic slide piece and it will lock the terminal in place.

hmm any pics as to where that locking slider is?

[CTScott]

hmm any pics as to where that locking slider is?

It's the white thing at one end of the connector:

Lock latched:
28155

Lock released:
28156

Pop it with a small screwdriver from the side:
28157

[flutie98]

well darn, I feel like an idiot now. Thanks CTScott

[CTScott]

well darn, I feel like an idiot now. Thanks CTScott

Don't - The first time I tried to pop a pin I did everything short of chewing on the connector. I had no clue that every connector has a locking mechanism until I read it in the service manual.

[flutie98]

Don't - The first time I tried to pop a pin I did everything short of chewing on the connector. I had no clue that every connector has a locking mechanism until I read it in the service manual.

Just out of curiosity where in the service manual does it depict this locking mechanism for A21?

EDIT: Just seated the terminal correctly, thanks again!

[julienrl]

Can you snap some pictures? There are three pins for the A21 connector. 82998-24250 is the smallest width of the three. The two others are for the wider width pins.

Also, the pin will only fully insert in one position. If it is flipped over, it will go in most of the way, but will not seat.


where do you buy this wire using the part number?

[Soylentglass]

Just out of curiosity where in the service manual does it depict this locking mechanism for A21?

EDIT: Just seated the terminal correctly, thanks again!

Just in case you are still curious, I found examples of locking mechanisms in the wiring diagram manual, page 14 through 16. Page 14 on the bottom left has some nice figures of a terminal with the "terminal retainer" both in the lock position and the "temporary" lock position, which is where I think a small piece of the terminal contacts the back of the retainer and holds it in place, but not as firmly as when you put the retainer in the lock position. There doesn't seem to be an example of a connector just like A21, but in the last figure on page 16 the connector on the left seems to have a somewhat similar retainer. Also, the third figure down on page 15 shows a terminal inserted into a connector with the waterproofing sleeve on it.

[CTScott]

where do you buy this wire using the part number?

You can order it through your local dealer or from TRDsparks.com

[opt101]

I got my oem connector with lead on it yesterday (local dealer had a list of 14 and change, but was able to get 20% through my dealings with them through work), and thankfully saw the above posts on how to open the lock mech, worked like a charm, hopefully someone updates the how to to include this new info! Thanks again for all your help guys!

[par4j]

Just installed on my wife's 2007 Yaris... It worked first time... and i am not good with this type of stuff. Thanks again guys for all your hard work on this... :w00t: Saved a bundle... :bow:

[Vince87]

I just received my insulated wire from trdsparks... I will update the DIY this week end so that nobody breaks his A21 connector while trying to fit it... Thanks again to CTScott for figuring this one out (what would we do without you?) !

[CTScott]

From reading the posts in this thread, it appears as though this does indeed work however I'm curious why the Rostra kit has is so complex in comparison?

I mean really, if it was just as easy as running one wire through the firewall why would they bother with all of the other ones?

Is it that the Rostra one supports many models & years and this DIY trick is only for the 07 and 08?

Also, I'm not sure if anyone answered this already, but would there be any reason I couldn't purchase an OEM cruise stalk and use the wires from this with this method?

If it's safe and works then I'd rather spend $25 on the OEM stalk and a couple of bucks on some wire then $250-500 for an aftermarket kit.

Thanks

Rostra makes kits for many vehicles. When they designed the Yaris one, they probably just used their standard method. Who'd have thunk that Toyota would build in the functionality, but just not put the stalk there to use it.

[CB900F2]

Hey guys and CTScott..

I assume based on the interchangeable parts that this kit from the CruiseControl store will fully work with our Yaris which is for the 08 Corolla?...

The kit includes the stalk and wire harness?

I know it is expensive, but since it has the cutting tool to cut the hole in the trim for the stalk to go through I am considering it..

http://www.cruisecontrolstore.com/ez-catalog/X380183/0003/250-1768%20C

P.S... The switch to turn on the cruise control on the stalk, it is a mechanical switch to where it stays in when turned on, or a digital switch to where when pressed, it sends the signal to the ECU to which turns on the dash indicator?... Since I don’t have the dash indicator, I would rely on the switch to let me know if the cruise is on or off

thanks guys!

[CTScott]

Hey guys and CTScott..

I assume based on the interchangeable parts that this kit from the CruiseControl store will fully work with our Yaris which is for the 08 Corolla?...

The kit includes the stalk and wire harness?

I know it is expensive, but since it has the cutting tool to cut the hole in the trim for the stalk to go through I am considering it..

http://www.cruisecontrolstore.com/ez-catalog/X380183/0003/250-1768%20C

P.S... The switch to turn on the cruise control on the stalk, it is a mechanical switch to where it stays in when turned on, or a digital switch to where when pressed, it sends the signal to the ECU to which turns on the dash indicator?... Since I don’t have the dash indicator, I would rely on the switch to let me know if the cruise is on or off

thanks guys!



Now that is crazy expensive. You can buy the lower cover with the hole already in it for about $15 (part number 45184-52130-B0) and an ebay stalk for well under $50.

As for the indicator, the switch is a momentary input to the ECM, so on 07-08's there is no indicator. I designed a circuit using a small microprocessor to see the button press and be able to distinguish between the on/off and the other buttons being pressed. Nickjhort installed and is using my prototype one. Cruz_gsr contacted me this week about getting one made, so I built some production ones and have been meaning to post a thread with them for sale. Below is a picture of the module. There is a panel mount blue LED for the indicator (that just requires a 1/4" hole). Two of the three wires are connected to the stalk (or switches for the full DIY version) and the third is connected to the ignition switched wire on the keyswitch. The modules are $25 shipped to the US and $30 shipped to Canada.


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[Antipilor]

Hmm I got all done with it and I get nothing when I push any of my switches. However, I definately have power going to the switches and my ground seems to work just fine, however I didn't have the correct resistors so I tried to pair them to get in range and I have a strong feeling I misread one or simply added wrong. I'll order the correct resistors and replace the ones I have and see if it works. On the upside me and my dad did this over the weekend and my car still works perfectly.

[CTScott]

Well I bit the bullet and ordered the kit from trdsparks. Figured $200 is a heck of a lot cheaper then $450-500 from the dealer. Plus I'll get the nice stalk with an indicator light.

What pushed me over the edge was I took a close look at the instrument cluster and couldn't see a cruise indicator. '07 HB with power package :(

Plus I drove 500km on Sat and my foot and leg cramped up big time! Cruise it is! :)

My on and only concern is the location of the connector near the transmission the instructions refer to, I'm sure I'll find it eventually but right now I have NO idea where that thing is.



You must have bought the Rostra kit, if the instructions involve a connection at the transmission. The Rostra kit has a far more complicated set of instructions than our DIY method. The only gain with the Rostra kit is the indicator LED on the stalk.

As you noticed, the 07-08's don't have the cluster indicator. My Cruise Indicator Module that I mentioned above adds the indicator to 07-08's (and you place the indicator where you want it) with far less labor than installing the Rostra kit.

[nickhjort]

I would totally go with CTScott's method with the Indicator Module. It's cheap and looks just as good as the Kits, or OEM installation. As long as you place the LED where you want it. I actually put mine in the Gauge Cluster to make it look more OEM, but I think it looks better than OEM myself. I'm sure if you take the time and have the skill you could scratch the OEM icon on the black cluster cover and it would look totally OEM.

The module does exactly what it says in the "CAN WE DO THIS" thread post #398. The light comes on for 1 second on power up and then works like a charm when in use. I equipped it with a white "12V ready" LED, but you can use whatever color you want.

I've noticed only one thing with your Module CTScott. When I hit the on/off switch two times really fast the CC reads two pushes, but the Module only reads one and actually inverts the LED. So you have to hit it again twice really fast to reset it. Also when I turn on my HID headlights there is a quick power drain that resets the module (the light comes on for a second and then the LED is reversed again because the drain doesn't reset the CC) But this only happens if I turn my CC on before the headlights. So if I hit the lights first I have no problems.

It's totally invisible until you hit the switch...see that little white dot?
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/yaris/CIMG7067.jpg

Video of it working...
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/yaris/?action=view&current=CIMG7073.flv

[CTScott]

I would totally go with CTScott's method with the Indicator Module. It's cheap and looks just as good as the Kits, or OEM installation. As long as you place the LED where you want it. I actually put mine in the Gauge Cluster to make it look more OEM, but I think it looks better than OEM myself. I'm sure if you take the time and have the skill you could scratch the OEM icon on the black cluster cover and it would look totally OEM.

The module does exactly what it says in the "CAN WE DO THIS" thread post #398. The light comes on for 1 second on power up and then works like a charm when in use. I equipped it with a white "12V ready" LED, but you can use whatever color you want.

I've noticed only one thing with your Module CTScott. When I hit the on/off switch two times really fast the CC reads two pushes, but the Module only reads one and actually inverts the LED. So you have to hit it again twice really fast to reset it. Also when I turn on my HID headlights there is a quick power drain that resets the module (the light comes on for a second and then the LED is reversed again because the drain doesn't reset the CC) But this only happens if I turn my CC on before the headlights. So if I hit the lights first I have no problems.

It's totally invisible until you hit the switch...see that little white dot?
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/CIMG7067.jpg

Video of it working...
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/nickhjort/?action=view&current=CIMG7073.flv


The quick press issue is due to switch deboucning. I found that the radio shack switches require almost 100ms of debouncing. With higher quality switches the debouncing can be significantly reduced.

I can't believe that the HIDs draw it down that much. You may want to consider a heftier battery or you might run into some problems. In doing some experimentation I found that the ECM becomes very flaky if the battery voltage sags below 9 volts.

[CB900F2]

Dude.. You DA MAN!!!!


Now that is crazy expensive. You can buy the lower cover with the hole already in it for about $15 (part number 45184-52130-B0) and an ebay stalk for well under $50.

As for the indicator, the switch is a momentary input to the ECM, so on 07-08's there is no indicator. I designed a circuit using a small microprocessor to see the button press and be able to distinguish between the on/off and the other buttons being pressed. Nickjhort installed and is using my prototype one. Cruz_gsr contacted me this week about getting one made, so I built some production ones and have been meaning to post a thread with them for sale. Below is a picture of the module. There is a panel mount blue LED for the indicator (that just requires a 1/4" hole). Two of the three wires are connected to the stalk (or switches for the full DIY version) and the third is connected to the ignition switched wire on the keyswitch. The modules are $25 shipped to the US and $30 shipped to Canada.


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[SEALL]

Correct.

hi guys,I'm from China with 08'Yaris 1.6AT 5doors liftback,i have done the CC work just like it,but the cc don't work,is it haven't programs in my ECM/ECU?:bow::cry::cry:

[coffiend]

quick question,

im not real familiar with electrical circuits and whatnot, but when adding 2 resistors in a series is it equivalent to the sums of the 2 resistors?

the reason I ask is because i could not find a resistor between 351-426, so i grabbed a 250 and a 150, assuming that together they'd make 370?

or am I just being way too simple minded?

[CTScott]

quick question,

im not real familiar with electrical circuits and whatnot, but when adding 2 resistors in a series is it equivalent to the sums of the 2 resistors?

the reason I ask is because i could not find a resistor between 351-426, so i grabbed a 250 and a 150, assuming that together they'd make 370?

or am I just being way too simple minded?

That's correct. When you connect them in series you sum the resistance (so 250+150 = 400).

[coffiend]

Okay thanks man, much appreciated

[flybabys]

thanks,than ive been waiting for this!but i'm not sure that can be use in my car at china!

[CTScott]

thanks,than ive been waiting for this!but i'm not sure that can be use in my car at china!

Unfortunately, it won't work on your Yaris. Another person from China tried it and verified that your ECM is not setup for cruise control.

[tomlock]

Two questions: 1) To make the A21-40 connection, are you just jamming the wire into the receptacle housing and hoping it makes connection to the corresponding pin on the ECM? Or do you know the part number for the proper crimp terminal to snap into the housing? 2) Why are you running the clutch switch to the engine bay fuse box instead of to C20-56 on the ECM?

[CTScott]

Two questions: 1) To make the A21-40 connection, are you just jamming the wire into the receptacle housing and hoping it makes connection to the corresponding pin on the ECM? Or do you know the part number for the proper crimp terminal to snap into the housing? 2) Why are you running the clutch switch to the engine bay fuse box instead of to C20-56 on the ECM?

I'm not at my desk right now to easily do the search, so if you look at the other two cruise control threads, you'll find my posting with the part number for the correct pin for the ECM connector.

For the clutch switch connection, you can go to either point, although the fuse box connection is easier to get to from the clutch switch.

[1NZYaris1]

What Voltage should i see at pin 40 :iono:

[CTScott]

What Voltage should i see at pin 40 :iono:

If your ECM supports cruise, pin 40 should measure 12 V with the ignition on, and nothing connected to the pin (other than your voltmeter).

[CTScott]

Is it possible that my failure to follow instructions, not jumping the clutch switch terminals, and attempting to activate the cruise has affected my ECM? I find nothing out of place, nor did I disturb anything other than the ground lug on the battery and the ECM connector to install the wire at Pin 40.

Has anyone else had a rough idle during or after performing this mod? Is it a super-coincidence that I now must perform a forum search on rough idle, and then go clean my MAS or something else?

Thanks...

Forgetting the clutch switch or bypass of it wouldn't cause an issue, other than the cruise not kicking on.

Your rough idle is probably due to having pulled the connector off of the ECM. Connector A21 carries power to the ECM, so when you pull it, you reset the short term data. Drive it for a couple of days and it should cure itself.

[WolfWings]

I still have a very low, very rough idle. This was not the case before yesterday.

Same thing happened here when I first did the mod to install the factory stalk on my '07 MT LB, CTScott's right: Give it a full tank of gas to re-learn things, it'll behave itself again.

[Smsimpson]

So I need some help with the actual routing of the wires...

I have an 08 Sedan MT. I have gone with the 4 button method and Installed them on a project box from the Shack ( I don't want to drill my dash because i want to eventually get a stalk). I'm stowing it in the Drivers side mini glove box essentially the same as mounting on the power mirror panel. I have run the negative lead to the Driver's side door sill to the ground bolt. My issue is how did you guys route this cable over to the passenger side floor (to access the grommet under the carpet)? any pictures of this process would be really nice. Also some help with the clutch switch routing would be nice too.

Thanks guys.... I'm and Audio Engineer so the soldering and electrical stuff is pretty easy for me, but I have never really worked on cars. So I need that help.

[1NZYaris1]

I have a factory Cruise stalk if anyone is interested

[hirstmusic]

Hey guys,

My brother helped me install the DIY cruise control today, and it works great! Tonight however, I was testing the cruise again and randomly the P/S (Power Steering) indicator came on. It may have come on after one of the following, but I'm not sure exactly what cause this... I tried to recreate the problem. It might have come on because...

1) I accidentally held "Cancel" instead of "Set" - would that cause a problem?
2) I tried to "Set" the cruise below 25 mph, which I know isn't supported, wondering if that was the problem and the light came on then.

Has anyone experienced something similar with the DIY Cruise Control and the Power Steering indicator? If so, what was the issue you found with it?

Any help would be really appreciated... I just want to make sure nothing is going to blow up or melt down or anything :-) Thanks!

[CTScott]

Hey guys,

My brother helped me install the DIY cruise control today, and it works great! Tonight however, I was testing the cruise again and randomly the P/S (Power Steering) indicator came on. It may have come on after one of the following, but I'm not sure exactly what cause this... I tried to recreate the problem. It might have come on because...

1) I accidentally held "Cancel" instead of "Set" - would that cause a problem?
2) I tried to "Set" the cruise below 25 mph, which I know isn't supported, wondering if that was the problem and the light came on then.

Has anyone experienced something similar with the DIY Cruise Control and the Power Steering indicator? If so, what was the issue you found with it?

Any help would be really appreciated... I just want to make sure nothing is going to blow up or melt down or anything :-) Thanks!


Check the power steering ECU (located directly above the steering column). Depending on how you pulled your wires through, you may have loosened one of the connectors. Neither of the two events you mentioned would cause an issue.

[upgradedyaris]

I have a factory Cruise stalk if anyone is interested


Price on this? Would this work with my car?

Thanks
Duane

[yarstar]

You guys are FREAKING AMAZING!

I almost bought the Rostra CC back in the summer because I was so sick of trips with my foot cramping up.

Now I'm so glad I didn't. Thanks for coming up with this and sharing your knowledge.

:bow:

[cynsofdm]

Wow this is awesome. It sounds easy enough that I could do it knowing nothing about cars or electronics. I was searching for this though because I am moving to Gainesville, fl from Atlanta, Ga tomorrow. I had to make the trip a couple days ago and my leg and back were killing me. I was hoping to find a way I could pull something off in a couple of hours. You think it's possible? I have a couple of guys familiar with cars and electrical stuff that are coming to help me move tomorrow...

The other thing was I really liked the "test" install Yaris07hb did, because then I could worry about mounting it later. Or possibly something even simpler... installing it in a slip of cardboard... I have tons of cardboard.

Also is the only worry with modifying the remote possibility of voiding a warranty? I bought my '08 HB used, and I don't have a warranty, at least that I know of... it's my first nice new to me car.

[CTScott]

Wow this is awesome. It sounds easy enough that I could do it knowing nothing about cars or electronics. I was searching for this though because I am moving to Gainesville, fl from Atlanta, Ga tomorrow. I had to make the trip a couple days ago and my leg and back were killing me. I was hoping to find a way I could pull something off in a couple of hours. You think it's possible? I have a couple of guys familiar with cars and electrical stuff that are coming to help me move tomorrow...

The other thing was I really liked the "test" install Yaris07hb did, because then I could worry about mounting it later. Or possibly something even simpler... installing it in a slip of cardboard... I have tons of cardboard.

Also is the only worry with modifying the remote possibility of voiding a warranty? I bought my '08 HB used, and I don't have a warranty, at least that I know of... it's my first nice new to me car.



It can be done in a few minutes with the right tools. In the "Can we do this" thread that started this whole idea, I test wired it to two stand-alone switches as a quick test before drilling holes in the dash.

[frankencar]

So this may be a silly question but... this works on an AT liftback as well? Just ignore the parts that say "MT only?"

Also, I'm a bit confused on the part where you connect to the ECU. Is there a specific crimp/connector, some other method to plug into the ECU?

[CTScott]

So this may be a silly question but... this works on an AT liftback as well? Just ignore the parts that say "MT only?"

Also, I'm a bit confused on the part where you connect to the ECU. Is there a specific crimp/connector, some other method to plug into the ECU?

Correct on the AT - Works the same and ignore the clutch switch part.

For the ECM connection (on 06-08 Yaris), you need to actually add a pin to the smaller of the two connectors on the ECM. I highly recommend using the actual Toyota "repair terminal", which is the pin with its waterproof sleeve and a piece of wire pre-connected to it. (Part number: 82998-24250)

[wyolincoln]

I performed this mod several months ago on my wife's 2007, 3 door liftback and decided to use the two switch method. Mounted two black switches on the small removable panel to the right of the column, just below the driver's side glove box. One switch provides on/off and the other switch provides the set function.
This mod has been working great and makes the car very pleasant to drive on all but the shortest trips. Plus one can't help but smile when knowing you have built your own cruise control for less than $10.
Thanks to all who posted schematics, pics, and ideas.

[upgradedyaris]

Correct on the AT - Works the same and ignore the clutch switch part.

For the ECM connection (on 06-08 Yaris), you need to actually add a pin to the smaller of the two connectors on the ECM. I highly recommend using the actual Toyota "repair terminal", which is the pin with its waterproof sleeve and a piece of wire pre-connected to it. (Part number: 82998-24250)


You forgot to add your module for the led. ;) A plus!

Duane

[myt]

Ok so of course I HAVE to do this!! I have a M/T, does the brake disengage the Cruise Control or do I have to depress the clutch?

Thanks,
MYT

[CTScott]

Ok so of course I HAVE to do this!! I have a M/T, does the brake disengage the Cruise Control or do I have to depress the clutch?

Thanks,
MYT

Either will disengage it provided that you install the clutch switch, rather than bypassing it.

[rtom]

Hey CTScott,

Is there a "sticky" or FAQ summarizing which mod procedure one should follow for different years/models of Yaris? I went through the long thread a month or two ago and I remember thinking that it would be better to add my own 2-way switch, but lately it seems everyone is talking about adding the stalk.

I ask this partly on your behalf -- if there's a sticky or FAQ up front in these CC threads, then surely you'll get fewer questions.

[CTScott]

Hey CTScott,

Is there a "sticky" or FAQ summarizing which mod procedure one should follow for different years/models of Yaris? I went through the long thread a month or two ago and I remember thinking that it would be better to add my own 2-way switch, but lately it seems everyone is talking about adding the stalk.

I ask this partly on your behalf -- if there's a sticky or FAQ up front in these CC threads, then surely you'll get fewer questions.

That's a good point. There are sooooo many different threads (with bizillions of posts) all discussing with the same questions popping up, as it is pretty hard to find the answers without wading through. I think I will put one together...

[CTScott]

Here's a start:


31410

[rtom]

Thanks! That's a pretty efficient start.

I'm a good guinea pig because I'm planning to do this (well, when the weather warms up -- I don't have a garage). From my point of view, the next steps are to nail down (1) part numbers and sources, and (2) procedures and tools required. Probably it's not so hard to summarize part numbers & sources, but summarizing procedures might be trickier?

Anyway, thanks, and I'll start reading the threads.

[Sodium Duck]

Should we be disconnecting the battery when playing with the ECU?

[CTScott]

Should we be disconnecting the battery when you play with the ECU?

It would be a good idea to do so.

[Sodium Duck]

Here's how I did mine. I wanted to be able to easily see and use the cruise control. To the left of the steering was too low for me, and the spot on the right isn't visible to me.

If you can't tell, this is the armrest piece with the power window/lock controls. The back of this plastic actually has two round raised things that I used as guides -- didn't even have to measure it out, just drilled the holes and wired it up. The red is on, black is set. Will also use the slide connects in the background just in case I ever need to remove the door panel. It goes in tomorrow, too dark out right now to be rooting around under the hood.

[Sodium Duck]

Works great! Thanks to all who put this DIY together.

[Sodium Duck]

The cockpit:
Cruise controls to my left.
CB, aftermarket stereo, 2009 black knurled control knobs, Ecometer and painted flat black trim to my right.

I love my Yaris.

If anyone wants my leftover resistors, I'll mail them to you, just PM me. I have 4 (comes in a pack of five).

[Sodium Duck]

Resistors are gone.

[rcspott]

2008 HB 3 Door Yaris Qustion

How much of the dash do you have to remove to see these connectors? Are some of them under the hood?

Thanks

[CTScott]

2008 HB 3 Door Yaris Qustion

How much of the dash do you have to remove to see these connectors? Are some of them under the hood?

Thanks

Check out this thread:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25515

[kazama82]

a quick question...will this work with yaris malaysia (in Malaysia, we call Toyota VIOS)

[CTScott]

a quick question...will this work with yaris malaysia (in Malaysia, we call Toyota VIOS)

I don't believe so. The way to test if it might is to measure the voltage on pin 40 of the ECM connector A21 (the pin where the cruise switch connects to). If that pin measures 12 V with the ignition on, then it might work. If it doesn't, then your ECM doesn't have the cruise control functionality built in.

[kazama82]

thanks scott..will try and measure..if it does have, i can do the wiring as stated.?..will the indicator shows at the meter panel?..

[CTScott]

thanks scott..will try and measure..if it does have, i can do the wiring as stated.?..will the indicator shows at the meter panel?..

If it does have it, then you can do the wiring as above. For the indicator, you can shine a flashlight on the panel to see what indicators are there, and if the cruise ones are.

[Falconeer]

If I got the Toyota Stalk from ebay, do I just wire it directly to the ECU or does it need the resistors as well?

[CTScott]

If I got the Toyota Stalk from ebay, do I just wire it directly to the ECU or does it need the resistors as well?

Directly to the ECM. The resistors emulate what is inside of the stalk.

I don't believe that your Yaris will have the cruise control functionality, as thus far it seems to only be US and Canada Yaris that do. To check before talking your steering wheel apart, measure the voltage on the ECM pin with the ignition on. If the pin doesn't measure 12V, then the stalk won't work.

[frankencar]

Hey guys, I need help! I just spent the afternoon putting in the two-button diy cruise with CTScott's indicator module...seemed like the install went pretty smooth, but it's not working! When I start the car, the indicator light goes on, then off for a quick moment, and then stays on. What could that mean?

I used two buttons (the black radio shack ones) and three 220 Ohm, 1/4 watt resistors in series, for 660 Ohm...should be right in the range, yes?

My first thought is that it is the ECM connection. I ordered the original factory part, Toyota repair terminal, or whatever it's called, and I had a heck of a time putting that thing in. My main problem is that it was a square peg going into a square hole, but first going through a round hole....It was very difficult to line up, and I gently played with it until I got the most secure fit I could, but I'm still not convinced it's in all the way.

Any thoughts?

[CTScott]

Hey guys, I need help! I just spent the afternoon putting in the two-button diy cruise with CTScott's indicator module...seemed like the install went pretty smooth, but it's not working! When I start the car, the indicator light goes on, then off for a quick moment, and then stays on. What could that mean?

I used two buttons (the black radio shack ones) and three 220 Ohm, 1/4 watt resistors in series, for 660 Ohm...should be right in the range, yes?

My first thought is that it is the ECM connection. I ordered the original factory part, Toyota repair terminal, or whatever it's called, and I had a heck of a time putting that thing in. My main problem is that it was a square peg going into a square hole, but first going through a round hole....It was very difficult to line up, and I gently played with it until I got the most secure fit I could, but I'm still not convinced it's in all the way.

Any thoughts?

The light staying on indicates that the indicator module is seeing the switch wire being shorted to ground.

For getting the pin in, did you pop the orange thing on the side of the connector, which is the retainer for the pins?

[Falconeer]

CTScott.. I am aware of that and was planning on checking that soon. I have a rental Yaris I can experiment on at the moment!!
Mine gets delivered on the 24th.

[rcspott]

Have all the parts to do a 2 button cruise on a 08 Yaris HB MT. Couple of questions/confidence builder...

What kind of connector are you using for the clutch control switch wires were they are connected in the fuse box?

Getting the wires through the firewall seems like the biggest challenge.

Where is the grommet on the passenger side, what color is it, any information of what you have to remove to see this grommet would be extremely helpful.

The hood release method, what do you have to remove to go that route? The plastic in the wheel well, does that need to be removed?

Do you wrap these wires in electrical tape?

I'm a real rookie at this, any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Rich

[Sodium Duck]

"Where is the grommet on the passenger side, what color is it, any information of what you have to remove to see this grommet would be extremely helpful."

This was so annoying for me. I found it easiest to go under the hood and get it from there. Look at the ECU, the grommet is to the right. It's black, like an inch or so wide. I popped mine out, and pushed a sharp piece of metal at the carpet behind. Then I went back in the car, saw where the metal was and cut an X in it. Ran the wire through and was done. I don't know why it took so long...

[rcspott]

Sodium Duck,

I want to verify that the ECU Box is alumimun with the two wire plugs on top and is all mounted to the fire wall on the left as your looking in from the front of the car. OK

I looked to the right of the ECU box and see no black grommet. All I see is a round grommet right at the left top corner of the ECU box.

This is giving me fits, any help out there, Picture?

Thanks

Rich

[Sodium Duck]

That's the grommet I'm talking about, you got it.

[rcspott]

Thank you "all that came before me", another successful cruise control install here. It's going to make my drive next week from Montana to California a breeze. Thanks again Sodium Duck for the resistors. I have left over resistors, if anyone wants them PM me and I will mail them off to you. They are the 680's that work perfectly for the two button install.

Thanks

Rich

[rcspott]

Resistors are gone.

[Sodium Duck]

Sending resistors all over the place is fun.

[frankencar]

Still having a massive failure. Anybody who's done this in the Portland metro area? It's really hard to figure out what's going on via forum X.X

Popped the ECU white thing, seems like I got a pretty tight fit, though the rubber still sticks up a bit (but its also kind of chewed up). The connector seems to be in perfect shape, I was really careful not to bend it, it is a $20 pin for crying out loud.

What else could it be?!

[CTScott]

Still having a massive failure. Anybody who's done this in the Portland metro area? It's really hard to figure out what's going on via forum X.X

Popped the ECU white thing, seems like I got a pretty tight fit, though the rubber still sticks up a bit (but its also kind of chewed up). The connector seems to be in perfect shape, I was really careful not to bend it, it is a $20 pin for crying out loud.

What else could it be?!


Did you ever take a voltage reading on the other end of the wire connecting to that pin? With the ignition on and engine not running, that wire should measure ~12 Volts to ground. If you don't measure that, then there is still an issue with connecting to that pin on the ECM.

[frankencar]

UPDATE: VICTORY!!!

Okay okay, it was something DUMB...

One of my wires snapped within the electrical tape wrapping. Not sure exactly how that happened, I must have pulled on the other end. Anyway, just got back from a successful test run. Beautiful, I love it!!!!

Thanks CTScott and others for finding this amazing mod!

[goat1of2]

And yet *another* new Yaris owner gives this a try......

It seems that y'all are saying that we should disconnect the battery before pulling off ECM connector A21. Yet, won't I need the battery connected to check if 12V is present at pin 40? That's right, I've never messed with the electronics in a car before.

Also, I'm looking at the document so kindly provided by Vince87 and I cannot for the life of me find Connector D3 either. I have a very late model 2008 and wanted to make sure that the wires I need aren't already in the cabin. There's a whole passel of connectors under that dash, most of which I cannot see because of all the plastic covers. Do I need to remove some of them?

[CTScott]

And yet *another* new Yaris owner gives this a try......

It seems that y'all are saying that we should disconnect the battery before pulling off ECM connector A21. Yet, won't I need the battery connected to check if 12V is present at pin 40? That's right, I've never messed with the electronics in a car before.

Also, I'm looking at the document so kindly provided by Vince87 and I cannot for the life of me find Connector D3 either. I have a very late model 2008 and wanted to make sure that the wires I need aren't already in the cabin. There's a whole passel of connectors under that dash, most of which I cannot see because of all the plastic covers. Do I need to remove some of them?


Check out this link for a comprehensive list of links related to installing cruise control:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25515&highlight=cruise+faq

This picture from my 09+ DIY shows D3 (the leftmost connector with the brown, blue and black wires):

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Yaris%20Cruise%20Control/ConnD3.jpg

You need to remove the lower steering column cover to gain access to it.

As far as disconnecting the battery goes, you should do so while doing the wiring to the ECM. Checking for 12V on pin 40 is really only necessary if you have issues with it not working, and in that case, you'd measure the voltage at that pin via the wire that you connected to it.

[goat1of2]

You need to remove the lower steering column cover to gain access to it.

As far as disconnecting the battery goes, you should do so while doing the wiring to the ECM. Checking for 12V on pin 40 is really only necessary if you have issues with it not working, and in that case, you'd measure the voltage at that pin via the wire that you connected to it.

Thank you sir. I found my Connector D3 and confirmed that I will need to run a wire from the ECM. Now to order the parts....

Perhaps the language in the pdf should be amended to read: "...connector D3 on the left side of the steering column (under the plastic housing)". I was taking "under the dash" to mean well, under the dash!

In case anyone finds it useful, the build date for my Yaris was May 2008; apparently they were not yet incorporating any features from the 2009 cruise control setup yet!

[lily]

I need some help from this install.

Got an '07 Yaris HB, base model, auto.

I did the 2 button setep from CTScott's PDF write-up.

I cannot get the 'cruise' to work after this mod.

What I did was soldered two resistors in series: a 270 and 380 for a 650 resistor. Then soldered the series as shown on the PDF for the 2 button setup.

I ran a wire to the PIN 40 on the ECU and grounded the other wire, but still nothing.

My questions are:

How far does the wire going into the ECU have to "stick" out to touch inside the ECU?........I have maybe 2 or 3 wires that stuck out from the harness, is that enough "contact" to make this work?

I grounded the other wire by just screwing/sandwiching into a grounded source on the driver's kick panel, <<< is this "good grounding"???

Is soldering a good idea to connect the series? <<< I soldered because the pins behind on the push buttons I got from Radio Shack were too small to work on.

I hope I am clear about my questions. It has been raining here so I would like some help soon so I could use this feature on my upcoming road-trip.

Thank you for your time.

[CTScott]

I need some help from this install.

Got an '07 Yaris HB, base model, auto.

I did the 2 button setep from CTScott's PDF write-up.

I cannot get the 'cruise' to work after this mod.

What I did was soldered two resistors in series: a 270 and 380 for a 650 resistor. Then soldered the series as shown on the PDF for the 2 button setup.

I ran a wire to the PIN 40 on the ECU and grounded the other wire, but still nothing.

My questions are:

How far does the wire going into the ECU have to "stick" out to touch inside the ECU?........I have maybe 2 or 3 wires that stuck out from the harness, is that enough "contact" to make this work?

I grounded the other wire by just screwing/sandwiching into a grounded source on the driver's kick panel, <<< is this "good grounding"???

Is soldering a good idea to connect the series? <<< I soldered because the pins behind on the push buttons I got from Radio Shack were too small to work on.

I hope I am clear about my questions. It has been raining here so I would like some help soon so I could use this feature on my upcoming road-trip.

Thank you for your time.


You really need to have good connection to the ECM pin and realllllly want it to still be waterproof, so using one of the correct pins for the connector is a good idea.

Soldering the resistors is definitely the way to go. In the example pictures of the two switch methods I just put them together to show the layout, but didn't solder the examples.

[lily]

how would the connection pin to the ECM look like?

i may have some extra pins left from the tacoma.

[CTScott]

how would the connection pin to the ECM look like?

i may have some extra pins left from the tacoma.

32363

[lily]

well, i re-wired new push buttons and added a new single 620 resistor to the 2-button setup but still no avail.

i'm thinking that the connection to PIN 40 is not so good.

how did you all establish "connection" to this PIN 40?

did you just simply push a strand of wire through the harness or actually got one of those little pins? (i just pushed a wire through the harness because i cannot figure out how to completly disassemble it).

can the head piece of harness be taken apart further? <<< i have take it off the ECU/ECM and the taken the little rubber plug off but cannot figure out if the head piece of the harness can be taken apart further.

Thank you.

[goat1of2]

Soldering the resistors is definitely the way to go. In the example pictures of the two switch methods I just put them together to show the layout, but didn't solder the examples.

Ah ha! I was wondering about that. This is like when we women give recipes by just mentioning a few ingredients...there are a whole LOT of steps which are simply assumed. As more inexperienced people like myself attempt this mod, you'll be getting all kinds of seemingly "dumb" questions. Like this one:

I've got some AWG 20 wire, but it is single-strand copper instead of the multi-strand silver-looking stuff I see all you guys used. Will this work? Can I solder it? Will it corrode if mixed with whatever other metals are involved?

See what I mean?

[Project status: resistors and switches on order from Digikey, proper ECM connector on order from Toyota]

[fratzica]

do you have any idea if this tutorial works on european Yaris models? Or if not, could you direct me to one? Thank you!

[CTScott]

do you have any idea if this tutorial works on european Yaris models? Or if not, could you direct me to one? Thank you!

It does not work on European Yaris, as they don't have the cruise control functionality built into the ECM. To add cruise control you would need to purchase an expensive aftermarket kit (I believe people have mentioned it to be about $800 USD).

[fratzica]

wow that`s expensive :frown:
Did you also check the diesel European models, or just the gasoline powered ones?
Thank you for your quick answer.

[CTScott]

wow that`s expensive :frown:
Did you also check the diesel European models, or just the gasoline powered ones?
Thank you for your quick answer.

Both do not.

[goat1of2]

Well, as you can probably tell from the stupid questions I was asking, this mod was way way beyond me. I have now broken a part and am wondering if you would identify which Toyota part number it is (where do you find these numbers?)

It is the plastic locking lever which locks in and holds connector A21. Picture enclosed.

Also, I did another stupid thing which seemed smart at the time: I pushed the plug over Pin 40 down through the connector. Of course it didn't come out the other side. I was supposed to pull it OUT! Stupid stupid. Now my special 20.00 connnector orderd from Toyota will not seat. Any suggestions? Other than just shooting myself now.

[CTScott]

Well, as you can probably tell from the stupid questions I was asking, this mod was way way beyond me. I have now broken a part and am wondering if you would identify which Toyota part number it is (where do you find these numbers?)

It is the plastic locking lever which locks in and holds connector A21. Picture enclosed.

Also, I did another stupid thing which seemed smart at the time: I pushed the plug over Pin 40 down through the connector. Of course it didn't come out the other side. I was supposed to pull it OUT! Stupid stupid. Now my special 20.00 connnector orderd from Toyota will not seat. Any suggestions? Other than just shooting myself now.

Yikes!

I don't see the locking lever listed anywhere in the EPC, so for that one you'll have to check with the parts person at your local dealer to see if it can be purchased (otherwise you might have to try to find one at a junkyard).

for getting that rubber plug back out, try pushing it from the pin side. If that doesn't work, you might be able to pull it out the wire side using a sewing pin with the tip bent into a hook.

[goat1of2]

There is a part number on the lever but it says "Tyco 90980-12589"

Tried googling it but nothing yet.

[CTScott]

There is a part number on the lever but it says "Tyco 90980-12589"

Tried googling it but nothing yet.


Tyco, Sumitomo, etc. make many custom connectors for Toyota, which you can't purchase from anyone, except the manufacturer or Toyota.

[Sodium Duck]

I also did that with the rubber thing in the connector, too. Just take a needle and push it back out the right way, it'll go. I had a lot of trouble too with that stupid connector. That black sliding piece wouldn't go back on, and after 10 minutes of fudging around with it, I just took it off and put the gray piece back on and slid it into place.

Don't worry - your car is not dead.

[goat1of2]

I also did that with the rubber thing in the connector, too. Just take a needle and push it back out the right way, it'll go. I had a lot of trouble too with that stupid connector. That black sliding piece wouldn't go back on, and after 10 minutes of fudging around with it, I just took it off and put the gray piece back on and slid it into place.

Don't worry - your car is not dead.

Thank you, Mr (or Ms) Duck, for your kind words of sympathy. The boyfriend came home after work and somehow managed to reinstall the piece I'd broken and superglued back together. Car now runs. PHEW! Back to square one.

He tried for quite some time to work out that plug using a pin, a thicker piece of wire, and just some general cussing. He says he can see the plug down in there and it is kind of sideways, allowing a wire to go right through to the other side, without piercing the plug.

He wants to use a tiny drill bit and DRILL the plug to bits. I say we don't know what the heck is inside that connection hole, so we risk ruining a 500.00 component! We might just smear the material the plug is made of all up inside there, making a worse mess. We might somehow screw up the neighboring connector, which has a wire already in it.

I want to try leaving the plug in and just pushing a single-strand AWG 20 wire through the connector and seeing if THAT will make a good-enough connection. A wire of that description does go right through.

So, do we try it his way or my way? Or, do I just cover the hole left by the missing plug with electrical tape and pronounce this vehicle PERMANENTLY WITHOUT CRUISE CONTROL.

I hope at least you all are getting a good laugh out of this!

[CTScott]

Thank you, Mr (or Ms) Duck, for your kind words of sympathy. The boyfriend came home after work and somehow managed to reinstall the piece I'd broken and superglued back together. Car now runs. PHEW! Back to square one.

He tried for quite some time to work out that plug using a pin, a thicker piece of wire, and just some general cussing. He says he can see the plug down in there and it is kind of sideways, allowing a wire to go right through to the other side, without piercing the plug.

He wants to use a tiny drill bit and DRILL the plug to bits. I say we don't know what the heck is inside that connection hole, so we risk ruining a 500.00 component! We might just smear the material the plug is made of all up inside there, making a worse mess. We might somehow screw up the neighboring connector, which has a wire already in it.

I want to try leaving the plug in and just pushing a single-strand AWG 20 wire through the connector and seeing if THAT will make a good-enough connection. A wire of that description does go right through.

So, do we try it his way or my way? Or, do I just cover the hole left by the missing plug with electrical tape and pronounce this vehicle PERMANENTLY WITHOUT CRUISE CONTROL.

I hope at least you all are getting a good laugh out of this!


I would avoid the drill bit route, as that has the potential to do unnecessary damage. The cavity that the plug is stuck in is rectangular, so it is fairly easy to have it round plug end of sideways in there. The drill bit will probably just chew up the soft sides of the cavity, rather than the plug. The key with the plug being wedged is to get something to hook deep enough into the plug to allow it to be pulled.

[rcspott]

Goat,

You have a Private Message

[lily]

well, i re-wired new push buttons and added a new single 620 resistor to the 2-button setup but still no avail.

i'm thinking that the connection to PIN 40 is not so good.

how did you all establish "connection" to this PIN 40?

did you just simply push a strand of wire through the harness or actually got one of those little pins? (i just pushed a wire through the harness because i cannot figure out how to completly disassemble it).

can the head piece of harness be taken apart further? <<< i have take it off the ECU/ECM and the taken the little rubber plug off but cannot figure out if the head piece of the harness can be taken apart further.

Thank you.

well, still no cruise yet.

my main question is about how to take off the ECU harness.

i have gone as far as "unlocking" the harness via the "white clip" like the pictures from the previous posts.

but does the harness come off even further??? <<< can someone please take a pic of the "full breakdown" of the harness???

what i did was pretty much just "unlocked" the harness via the "white clip" and slid a wire through PIN 40. <<< this i believe somehow is not "good enough" contact to the ECU itself.

i think this is what I'm stuck on, because i cannot establish a good contact from the wire to the ECU. i have the little connector pin, but just don't know how to break down the ECU harness to fit it onto PIN 40 of the harness.

HELP PLEASE.

[CTScott]

well, still no cruise yet.

my main question is about how to take off the ECU harness.

i have gone as far as "unlocking" the harness via the "white clip" like the pictures from the previous posts.

but does the harness come off even further??? <<< can someone please take a pic of the "full breakdown" of the harness???

what i did was pretty much just "unlocked" the harness via the "white clip" and slid a wire through PIN 40. <<< this i believe somehow is not "good enough" contact to the ECU itself.

i think this is what I'm stuck on, because i cannot establish a good contact from the wire to the ECU. i have the little connector pin, but just don't know how to break down the ECU harness to fit it onto PIN 40 of the harness.

HELP PLEASE.

I just put together a quick DIY on removing the connector, pulling the plug, and inserting the pin:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?p=451571#post451571

[goat1of2]

well, still no cruise yet.

i think this is what I'm stuck on, because i cannot establish a good contact from the wire to the ECU. i have the little connector pin, but just don't know how to break down the ECU harness to fit it onto PIN 40 of the harness.

HELP PLEASE.

Lily,
I think the one thing which no one has explicitly stated yet is that you MUST have the special Toyota "repair terminal" to make this mod work for the 07-08 models. Just shoving any ole wire through the pin 40 hole doesn't cut the mustard. Did anyone get it to work that way?

[CTScott]

Lily,
I think the one thing which no one has explicitly stated yet is that you MUST have the special Toyota "repair terminal" to make this mod work for the 07-08 models. Just shoving any ole wire through the pin 40 hole doesn't cut the mustard. Did anyone get it to work that way?

A few people have done it with the "ole wire" method. It certainly can work that way, but will be more prone to stop working and to potentially let moisture get to where it shouldn't.

[lily]

thank you CTScott for the write up.

i will give it another try this coming weekend and report back.

tune in...

[fratzica]

So this is what I found under the steering column in my EU spec 08` Yaris D-4D.
I have the brown and blue wires but both in the wrong pin locations.
Sorry for the blueish color, i took the photos with my cellphone.

[CTScott]

So this is what I found under the steering column in my EU spec 08` Yaris D-4D.
I have the brown and blue wires but both in the wrong pin locations.
Sorry for the blueish color, i took the photos with my cellphone.

Those are for the steering wheel radio controls.

[fratzica]

Damn...
I really need the cruise control function because I drive a lot outside town and I get tired of holding the accelerator pedal at a certain speed. Probably got used to the cruise control because my last car had this function. Just yesterday i drove almost 1000 km or 620 miles and had to take a 1 hour nap on the return trip. I know 620 miles is not a lot in the US due to your highway system, but in my country we have only 2 (yes, two) highways, most of the roads having one lane for each direction only.
Anyway.. I`ll try to find a cheaper solution :)
Thank you Scott for your help!

[CTScott]

Damn...
I really need the cruise control function because I drive a lot outside town and I get tired of holding the accelerator pedal at a certain speed. Probably got used to the cruise control because my last car had this function. Just yesterday i drove almost 1000 km or 620 miles and had to take a 1 hour nap on the return trip. I know 620 miles is not a lot in the US due to your highway system, but in my country we have only 2 (yes, two) highways, most of the roads having one lane for each direction only.
Anyway.. I`ll try to find a cheaper solution :)
Thank you Scott for your help!


You might want to contact the company in the link below. They are based in Denmark and make cruise control kits for various vehicles that can even use the OEM cruise control stalk. They definitely make one for the Auris D-4D, so they should have one for the Yaris D-4D as well.

http://www.el-pas.com/products_ecruise.htm

[fratzica]

Just sent them an e-mail. Fingers crossed :D

[CTScott]

Just sent them an e-mail. Fingers crossed :D

Here's another potential option; I believe that The Rostra cruise control kit, which is used as the dealer added cruise control on US Yaris, would work as well.

I just noticed in the EWDs for the D-4D, that the wiring to the accelerator pedal (connector A20) is the same as for our US cars. The Rostra kit connects to the accelerator pedal connector, the neutral safety switch (AT) or tach wire (MT), the vehicle speed sensor wire, and the brake switch. So, I think it would work fine on your D-4D.

Here's a place that sells the Rostra kits for $249:

http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/ez-catalog/X380183/0003

[fratzica]

thecruisocontrostore.com ships only in the US and Canada.. Let`s see what the people from el-pas.com say.

[weaver615]

Ok Guys I tried this MOD today and it doesn't work. I used 2 NO Switches and 1 680ohm 1/2 5% cfr resistor, grounded to chasis at the drivers side door and hot to PIN 40 of the ECM. Jumpered the Clutch switch and took it for a test drive. NADA.
I'm wondering if the resistor may be the problem or if the problem could be that I used 20 Gauge solid and not stranded wire, (shouldn't make a difference I wouldn't think), to build the circuit and run the hot and ground. every thing checked and doubled checked, any Ideas? BTW, I am using the 2 switch method not the 4.

[CTScott]

Ok Guys I tried this MOD today and it doesn't work. I used 2 NO Switches and 1 680ohm 1/2 5% cfr resistor, grounded to chasis at the drivers side door and hot to PIN 40 of the ECM. Jumpered the Clutch switch and took it for a test drive. NADA.
I'm wondering if the resistor may be the problem or if the problem could be that I used 20 Gauge solid and not stranded wire, (shouldn't make a difference I wouldn't think), to build the circuit and run the hot and ground. every thing checked and doubled checked, any Ideas? BTW, I am using the 2 switch method not the 4.


How did you make the connection to pin 40?

Solid vs stranded shouldn't make a difference, but with the 680 ohm resistor being near the top end of the range (567-693 ohms), if your 5% tolerance is off in the + direction, then you may be out of range for the set function. +5% on 680 puts you up to 714 ohms.

[weaver615]

I made the connection direct to PIN 40 on the ECM. Ran positive wire thru firewall to the ECM pushed out the rubber block and fed the wire down til it came out the other side and trimmed it as close to the connector as possible. Put the wire shield back on and re-connected the ECM....Should I try using 2 - 330ohm resistors they are a quarter watt but the wattage shouldn't make that much of a difference I don't think should it?

[CTScott]

I made the connection direct to PIN 40 on the ECM. Ran positive wire thru firewall to the ECM pushed out the rubber block and fed the wire down til it came out the other side and trimmed it as close to the connector as possible. Put the wire shield back on and re-connected the ECM....Should I try using 2 - 330ohm resistors they are a quarter watt but the wattage shouldn't make that much of a difference I don't think should it?

Since you are using a wire, rather than the connector pin, make sure that the connection is good. You can measure the voltage at the other end of that wire and with the ignition on it should be 12V.

For the resistor(s), 1/4 watt is fine (even 1/8 watt would be fine, as the current draw is negligible).

[weaver615]

Whatt would you suggest? Leave the wires as they are and cut at the switches and rebuild the circuit then splice back into the wires already ran, I would rebuild it using a radioshack 560 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor. Or, should I just tear everything out and start fresh, new circuit, new wires, etc. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it. I want Cruise soo bad!!!! lol

[weaver615]

Would it be safe to leave the clutch jumpered until I can buy the acutal switch from the dealer? I know I would have to be careful NOT to push the clutch down until after I disengaged the cruise.

[CTScott]

Whatt would you suggest? Leave the wires as they are and cut at the switches and rebuild the circuit then splice back into the wires already ran, I would rebuild it using a radioshack 560 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor. Or, should I just tear everything out and start fresh, new circuit, new wires, etc. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it. I want Cruise soo bad!!!! lol

You could rebuild it and splice it back in.

[CTScott]

Would it be safe to leave the clutch jumpered until I can buy the acutal switch from the dealer? I know I would have to be careful NOT to push the clutch down until after I disengaged the cruise.

It is, as long as you do remember.

[CTScott]

ok Scott I'm gonna try to rebuild the circuit and splice it back in. The 560 ohm 1/2w resistor with 5% CFR would be ok right? It would put me at 588 ohms almost at the middle of the scale but better than 714 ohms. Another thing I just noticed is the switches I bought Radioshack catalog #: 275-644 don't say whether they are NO or NC, Would these switches Radioshack catalog #: 275-1566, be better? I know they have to be NO switches, just wondering if that could be the problem I got NC instead of NO switches.

A 560 is probably too low. The 5% can go either way, so if you use a resistor close to either end, you really should check it with an ohm meter to verify what the actual value is. Being within the range is critical. If you are out of band, the ECM will not recognize the function.

The 275-644 switches are N.O., so they are fine.

[weaver615]

ok I checked my NEW switch and have 12 volts at the circuit end of the run wires with the ignition in the "on" position, so I have a connection to the ECM. Still nada. I'm stumped.

I'm thinking I should use 2- 330 ohm resistors, that would put with in the band +/- 5%.

[CTScott]

Did you check the actual resistance of your resistor?

[weaver615]

Scott, just replaced risistors with 2 330 ohm resistors, still nada, resistance at 630 well with in the band...I am perplexed....now what?

[CTScott]

Scott, just replaced risistors with 2 330 ohm resistors, still nada, resistance at 630 well with in the band...I am perplexed....now what?

Take pictures of everything - Switch wiring, clutch switch bypass wiring, ECM connection point.

[weaver615]

ok here are pics of my DIY cruise control on a 2007 Yaris 5 speed Manual transmission.

PIC 1: switch with circuit Used 680 ohm resistor. Splice in place after redoing circuit. Red wire to PIN 40 on ECM Black wire to ground at drivers side door.

PIC 2: ECM with Red wire at PIN 40.

PIC 3: Clutch jumpered at fuse box done using nickhjort's method.

PROBLEM: Cruise doesn't work. ON/OFF swtich doesn't seem to get power. SET doesn't engage.

HYPOTHESIS: Either bad switches (second set), or ECM doesn't support Cruise Control.

Where do I go from here? :iono:

[CTScott]

On the ECM you have the correct position.

The clutch switch bypass is in the correct position.

The switches look fine. In the pic the top one is on/off and the bottom one is set.

With the ignition on, if you measure from the red to the black wire on the top switch, what do you see for voltage?

[weaver615]

Voltage with ignition in on position Almost 13 volts (analog meter here). With Ignition off 0 (zero) volts.

[CTScott]

And, if you press the top switch it goes to 0 volts?

[weaver615]

Yupper goes to Zero Volts. BTW< the resistor I used is the 680 Ohm resistor from radioshack that you get in the $12.99 package of resistors.

[CTScott]

OK. How about the clutch switch bypass - Do you have definite contact between the connector pins and your jumper? With the ignition on, both the blue and white wire terminals should measure 12 V.

[weaver615]

HALLELUJAH!!! I have Cruise Control...CTScott, that's what the problem was. The Clutch bypass wasn't at 12 volts...once I moved things around a little and got them to get 12 volts I took the car out for a test drive and WAH LAH!!! Instant cruise control...I thank you ever so much for helping me with this, you are awesome!!!! How can I repay your help?

[CTScott]

Excellent!

[weaver615]

Now I just have to get the real clutch bypass switch....I'll call my local dealer Monday and see if I can order one.....Thanks again...I'm TOTALLY Stoked now!!!

[weaver615]

UPDATE: DIY Cruise Control working fine. CTScott, I was wondering if would be possible to add JUST a RESUME switch to the 2 switch method? I was driving to work today and got to wondering this....Is it possible?

[CTScott]

UPDATE: DIY Cruise Control working fine. CTScott, I was wondering if would be possible to add JUST a RESUME switch to the 2 switch method? I was driving to work today and got to wondering this....Is it possible?

Sure - That would be the 3 switch method...

If you look at the picture below, from my original DIY, if you added a third switch, you would gain resume (and would then have + and -, since they are secondary functions on the set and resume switches)

You could parallel it to your existing rig using a 240 ohm resistor, or redo your switch wiring and just leave off the cancel switch.


http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Yaris%20Cruise%20Control/4swLabel.jpg

[weaver615]

The 3 switch DIY criuse control would be wired like this I believe. Am I correct in assuming this is right? Please excuse the art work...I did this in Paint so it isn't the greatest.

[CTScott]

The 3 switch DIY criuse control would be wired like this I believe. Am I correct in assuming this is right? Please excuse the art work...I did this in Paint so it isn't the greatest.

Correct

[lily]

ok now...i need some help.

well, i've installed a wire with the connector tip, into PIN 40 of the ECU harness.

i've also made the 2-button style controller, just as the illustrations from the previous posts.

and...still no avail.

i have tested out the on/off buttons with a DMM and it reads about 5.24 when pressed and the ignition turned to 'on'. having the key to 'on' and no pressing the button, i get 0 on the DMM.

I NEED HELP TROUBLESHOOTING!

i think that the wire into PIN 40 is not contacting inside the ECU or the buttons are no good. i have the radio shack 275-1548 SPST 'Mini' buttons with a 125 VAC, 0.3amp @ 50 VDC. <<< ARE THESE BUTTONS GOOD ENOUGH TO MAKE THIS WORK???

i've already checked the single resistor to be about 634. <<< Is this OK?

out of ideas no, HELP!!!

[CTScott]

ok now...i need some help.

well, i've installed a wire with the connector tip, into PIN 40 of the ECU harness.

i've also made the 2-button style controller, just as the illustrations from the previous posts.

and...still no avail.

i have tested out the on/off buttons with a DMM and it reads about 5.24 when pressed and the ignition turned to 'on'. having the key to 'on' and no pressing the button, i get 0 on the DMM.

I NEED HELP TROUBLESHOOTING!

i think that the wire into PIN 40 is not contacting inside the ECU or the buttons are no good. i have the radio shack 275-1548 SPST 'Mini' buttons with a 125 VAC, 0.3amp @ 50 VDC. <<< ARE THESE BUTTONS GOOD ENOUGH TO MAKE THIS WORK???

i've already checked the single resistor to be about 634. <<< Is this OK?

out of ideas no, HELP!!!


The switches are your issue. Those are normally closed (N.C.) switches, so they act like they are pressed until you press them, then they act like they are not. Radio Shack does not do a good job with labeling their switches.

You need normally open (N.O.) ones. 275-1571 are mini N.O. ones for example.

[lily]

AH HA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

upon further 'inspecting' the descriptions on the baggy, it does indeed say (in very fine print) "N.C. contacts". <<< I assume this is the "normally closed" which i need "normally open".

tomorrow i will have to go get the ones stated then.

i appreciate the help CTScott.

tune in...

[lily]

well...i went and got two different buttons (radio shack part number: 275-0644).

installed it and IT WORKS!!!

YAY...THANKS TO CTScott and others for their pics.

turned out that i had the wrong buttons this whole time. when i initially went to buy the buttons, i swore i thought i saw them as "N.O." but i guess i was reading too fast and was rushing it.

thanks again, now with cruise, its a breeze on them long road trips.

happy driving!!!

[CTScott]

well...i went and got two different buttons (radio shack part number: 275-0644).

installed it and IT WORKS!!!

YAY...THANKS TO CTScott and others for their pics.

turned out that i had the wrong buttons this whole time. when i initially went to buy the buttons, i swore i thought i saw them as "N.O." but i guess i was reading too fast and was rushing it.

thanks again, now with cruise, its a breeze on them long road trips.

happy driving!!!


Nice! I'm always glad to hear the success stories.

[weaver615]

CTScott I have the +Res wired per the scematic I put above. Tested and it disconnects the Cruise. I had to use 2 - 120 resistors. Should those be 120K resistors to get 240? I have 120's and 120K's

[weaver615]

Here is a pic of what I have now.

[CTScott]

Wow, that's one blurry picture!

OK. You are close - It's two 120's not 120K's (which would be 120,000), so you have the correct values. The problem is that they are in parallel instead of series. They need to be end to end to make 240, not side by side.

[weaver615]

Got it...Re-did them putting them in Series, and all works great now, I thought that was what I did wrong but wasn't sure. Thanks again CTScott 'You da man'!!!!! :bow:

Now what should my next Mod be???

[yongtaufoo]

Hi guys,

Im trying to install cruise controls for my Yaris (Automatic Transmission) and would like to get some advice from the experts here before proceeding with my DIY:

My ECM A21-40 has a 12V with ignition on. So now all i need to do is to connect the cruise control stalk CCS pin to A21-40 and ECC pin to ground correct?

Do i need to do any other modifications for cruise control to work?

Thanks!! :smile:

[CTScott]

Hi guys,

Im trying to install cruise controls for my Yaris (Automatic Transmission) and would like to get some advice from the experts here before proceeding with my DIY:

My ECM A21-40 has a 12V with ignition on. So now all i need to do is to connect the cruise control stalk CCS pin to A21-40 and ECC pin to ground correct?

Do i need to do any other modifications for cruise control to work?

Thanks!! :smile:

That's it for an Auto.

[yongtaufoo]

That's it for an Auto.


Hi Scotts,

Thank you so much for your reply. :smile:

But im puzzle about another thing. If referring to the cruise control switch schematic, turning cruise control ON-OFF will short ECM Pin40 12V to ground. Will I then damage my ECM by doing this since it is outputing a 12V? And ECM Pin40 is an input or output port?

Thanks!

[yarstar]

One more CC done! Thanks to CTScott and all who contributed. A suggestion if you have the TB upgrade: you will need to disconnect the battery while doing this DIY so the ECM resets. Only disconnecting the one plug causes the initial ocillation to return. For some reason it won't learn until you completely reset the ECM.

I want to pass on a couple of 680 ohm resistors that I was given to anyone who needs them. You only need one to do the 2-button setup. PM me with an address and I'll mail one to you.

Thanks again CTScott. This was the only thing my car was missing.

[CTScott]

Hi Scotts,

Thank you so much for your reply. :smile:

But im puzzle about another thing. If referring to the cruise control switch schematic, turning cruise control ON-OFF will short ECM Pin40 12V to ground. Will I then damage my ECM by doing this since it is outputing a 12V? And ECM Pin40 is an input or output port?

Thanks!

Pin 40 is an analog to digital port on the ECM. The 12 volts is a reference voltage and the ADC has about 2k ohms of internal resistance, so shorting that pin to ground just brings the ADC to the bottom of it's 0-12 volt input range.

[weaver615]

I want to pass on a couple of 680 ohm resistors that I was given to anyone who needs them. You only need one to do the 2-button setup. PM me with an address and I'll mail one to you.


I too have a few of the 680 ohm resistors that I can donate to someone looking to do the 2 button setup. I also have some 120 ohms too if someone wants to do the 3 button setup like I did. PM me your address and I can send them out to you.

[kazama82]

If it does have it, then you can do the wiring as above. For the indicator, you can shine a flashlight on the panel to see what indicators are there, and if the cruise ones are.

hi scott,

i see this post on opening the ECM. If i dc the battery, how do i measure the 12V?

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26444&highlight=ECM

very very sorry for asking a noob question...i have a DVM with me but dunno which wire/connector i need to measure to make sure my car having cruise control function...hope can get some help ...thanks..

[CTScott]

hi scott,

i see this post on opening the ECM. If i dc the battery, how do i measure the 12V?

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26444&highlight=ECM

very very sorry for asking a noob question...i have a DVM with me but dunno which wire/connector i need to measure to make sure my car having cruise control function...hope can get some help ...thanks..

To take the measurement you would need to do so with the battery still connected and the ignition in the on position. For actually doing the wiring I suggest that people disconnect the battery, while doing so.

You can stick a pin through the rubber plug in that pin location of the ECM connector to take the measurement.

Based on others experience, I don't believe that your car's ECM will have the cruise control functionality.

[kazama82]

really?..too bad then..if so, i will not bother to check the ECM voltage then..:(..thanks scott..

[swidd]

YAAY! It worked! It was even quite easy. The soldering with a barely warm over-sized soldering iron was the only tedious part, and getting the ECU connector apart proved harder than it needed to be because I pushed the little rubber piece in instead of out first...
My wiring, routing and resistors and stuff looks really amateurish, but whatever, so long as it works and doesn't catch on fire, and as long as nobody from Toyota sees it :)

To the guy with the picture of the 4-way switch installed in the switch place between the seats... good job! You made it look good, and I don't know how, because I could not get the switch to fit there without cutting into the panel and molest the empty switch cover.


Clutch Switch $23
ECU wire (made installation a lot easier, I routed this short wire into the grommet right behind the ECU, and spliced it to the switch wire behind the glove box, super easy). $17.
4-way switch $22.
Total: $62, and about 4 hours of fiddling.

[Henry G.]

Where does everyone get this "repair connector", is it a toyota only product, ior can I get it at Radio Shack? Is there a part number, what is the proper name. I have the car torn apart now, and dont just want to shove the wire into pin 40 hole. Thanks for any help..
BTW there is NO WAY this is a 45 minute DIY...but so far so good.
OK never mind did a better search and found, looks like another trip to the toyota dealer, yeah!

OK, went to the dealer, $15 bucks!!!!?? No f'ing way! And they would have to order it.
So back to Radio Shack, had to buy 5 different 1/4 watt resistors to make up the required combinations, having to use 2 to 3 resistors in series. I check them with my multi-tester, most of them show no value, even the new ones I did use, about 25% show the correct value within 5%...WTF? So I have the switch panel wired, but cannot read values on most of the resistors, some I can read but I have to switch to 2k or 20k, but most of the rest still read zero continuity. Im frustrated to say the least.

[Henry G.]

Well made some progress, close to getting it working. Should have worn my glasses, I bought 22k and 100k resistors instead of 22 and 100 ohm. Went back to Radio Shack where I am practically on a first name basis now with the employees, got the $12.99 500 pack, so I will have a bunch to give away when the job is done. Tried to unsolder the wrong resistors out of the loops, and melted one of the micro NO switches. Looks like I will be rebuilding my switch pad from scratch, not going back into town again today.
On the up side, got a wire, folded over twice and soldered to fit into pin 40 on the ecm harness, with a confirmed 12+ volts so it seated. I routed the wire through the heater hose/tube grommet, very soft and pliable, taping the wire to a coat hanger and carefully working it through worked. Same for the clutch switch wires. I used small terminals which stuffed quite nicely down into the fuse block connections for clutch wires where the jumper goes, worked good.
I will post pics tomorrow AFTER I get more switches and get this SOB working.

Just a few observations and suggestions which may or may not have been mentioned along the way: Remove the ECM for the firewall, and undo the wire loop holders to pull the whole thing out. The ECM connectors are GARBAGE IMO, and are a PITA to remove and replace. They appear to literally be meant for only several uses, despite being gentle. At least getting the thing off the firewall allows you to get a better look and grasp at it. Another thing, did I mention the ECM conncectors are crap? My Chevy is built for at least 100 R&R's, with a screw securing the PCM connectors. This is stuff cheap, be careful and dont use much force. I got them on and off again without damage, but it was not simple. As usual with jobs like this, you need the hands the size of a 3 year old with the strength of a 20 year old. Another thing, make sure you have ALL the parts before you start, I just assumed I would run down to the dealer and store and they would have everything I needed, not the case. Also, get a multimeter if you dont have one, you will need it often.
Allow at least 4 hours for ripping the car apart, making the switch pad, shoving wires through the firewall, installing the clutch switch and wires, and screwing around with ECM connectors. Get the Toyota repair connector, I lucked out after several tries by shoving a soldered wire down there with needle nose pliers, but you may not. And get soldering flux, soldering without it is 10 times as hard, plumbers flux works fine. Also get a pad or pile of towels to put on the ground outside the car as you will be spending some time on your knees down there.
Hope to have it working tomorrow, as its going to the dealer for CV joints under extended warranty at 47k Monday.

[Henry G.]

OK, I DID IT!! When I first felt the car accelerate to hold the speed it made it all worth it.
Total cost $50, had to buy multi pack of resistors and second set of switches, still worth every penny.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/DSC01143.jpg
Second switch pad ready for install
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/DSC01149-1.jpg
Plugged in ready for test drive. I used connectors to unplug the first switch pad and plug in the second correctly wired one.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/DSC01148-1.jpg
Clutch jumper going to fuse box.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/DSC01146.jpg
ECM wire tucked into harness
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/DSC01147.jpg
ECM and clutch wires coming thru heater hose grommet. Im not thrilled with this set up, I will likely get a grommet and drill a hole thru the firewall next to the hoses in the near future.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/DSC01151.jpg
Ground wire going to bolt on gas pedal. I couldnt find the previously mentioned ground wire, this worked great, easy to get to. With the plastic re-installed you cannot see this wire at all.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/nminus1/DSC01150.jpg
AND final install.
Thanks for everyone who contributed posts along the way, the DIY and CTScotts expert info, after reading everything it all came together, I made it harder than it had to be by not getting the right resistors up front, and wiring in the wrong ones in the first switch pad. I have some extra resistors if anyone wants them PM me.
Hank

[Sodium Duck]

To anyone that did what I did and pushed the rubber stopper down instead of up. I used a very small drill bit and twisted it with my fingers and it cought and I was able to pull it out. it took me about an hour to get this out, sucked big time

You should have been able to just push it out from the other end with a paperclip. I pushed the wrong way, too.

[yongtaufoo]

Hi guys,

Any one can advice me where i can purchase the repair wire for ECM pin 40 for cruise control DIY? Its made by Tyco right? Anybody knows the Tyco part number?

[CTScott]

Hi guys,

Any one can advice me where i can purchase the repair wire for ECM pin 40 for cruise control DIY? Its made by Tyco right? Anybody knows the Tyco part number?

I posted the Toyota part number in the thread below. Your best bet is to get it from Toyota. I have tried ordering some of the Tyco pins, but they are OEM custom parts, so you can't get them from Tyco distributors.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25515&highlight=faq+cruise

[Happy Little Pony]

I must offer major thanks to everyone who has worked so hard on the whole cruise control project.

I just spent the afternoon installing the "two switch" method on my 2007 with manual transmission. It works!

[Revsson]

I must offer major thanks to everyone who has worked so hard on the whole cruise control project.

I just spent the afternoon installing the "two switch" method on my 2007 with manual transmission. It works!

Congratulations Happy Little Pony !! :clap:

I have the factory cruise, but am trying to talk my buddy into doing this
on his 2007 MT. I also know someone with a 2008 AT that does a lot of
highway driving, and think he should do this to his as well. :smile:

[crazyandroid]

Hi there, I have been considering doing this mod and I am waiting on my parts (ordered switches, resistors, and wire from allelectronics.com); however I have one question. I did not see anywhere in here which wire goes where for the clutch switch. I have an '07 sedan w/ MT and I have the Toyota clutch switch, which has two posts and I see that there are two posts to connect to the CC switches in the fuse box. Could someone please clarify for me how to run the wires from the clutch switch to the fuse box connections, if it even matters. BTW, I will have extras of each resistor so if anyone wants em I'll mail them to you, just PM me.

[CTScott]

Hi there, I have been considering doing this mod and I am waiting on my parts (ordered switches, resistors, and wire from allelectronics.com); however I have one question. I did not see anywhere in here which wire goes where for the clutch switch. I have an '07 sedan w/ MT and I have the Toyota clutch switch, which has two posts and I see that there are two posts to connect to the CC switches in the fuse box. Could someone please clarify for me how to run the wires from the clutch switch to the fuse box connections, if it even matters. BTW, I will have extras of each resistor so if anyone wants em I'll mail them to you, just PM me.

There is no polarity to the clutch switch, so you don't have to worry about which terminal on the switch goes to which of the two wires in the fuse box.

You simply run the two wires from the clutch switch to the two wires in the under-hood fuse box, and make your connections.

[crazyandroid]

There is no polarity to the clutch switch, so you don't have to worry about which terminal on the switch goes to which of the two wires in the fuse box.

You simply run the two wires from the clutch switch to the two wires in the under-hood fuse box, and make your connections.

Thank you very much! I can't wait for my switches to come in!

[PhillyG]

hi guys.. i am very interested in doing this to my yaris. does this work for 2009 as well? i didnt see anyone mention this beyond 07-08.

[CTScott]

hi guys.. i am very interested in doing this to my yaris. does this work for 2009 as well? i didnt see anyone mention this beyond 07-08.

Yes. 09 Liftbacks (and some Sedans) have the wiring in place from the ECM to the steering column, making the job even easier. Take a look at the following thread regarding the differences:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25515&highlight=diy+cruise

[PhillyG]

Thanks!! i am making a list now.. hope to get to do this in a week or two!

[crazyandroid]

:iono: :cry: Ok, quick question. When installing the clutch switch, I see that the two wires go to the blue and white wires on that connection in the fuse box . . . could I just splice into those wires instead of trying to wedge some sort of connector into the same hole? I ask b/c that's what I tried and I'm not sure where my failure lies. I will take pictures in the morning of everything that I did and hopefully someone can help me. I'm really feeling like I should not have attempted this mod . . . I don't even know how to check the current to make sure that things are connected adequately. :iono:

[CTScott]

:iono: :cry: Ok, quick question. When installing the clutch switch, I see that the two wires go to the blue and white wires on that connection in the fuse box . . . could I just splice into those wires instead of trying to wedge some sort of connector into the same hole? I ask b/c that's what I tried and I'm not sure where my failure lies. I will take pictures in the morning of everything that I did and hopefully someone can help me. I'm really feeling like I should not have attempted this mod . . . I don't even know how to check the current to make sure that things are connected adequately. :iono:

Definitely splice - Don't wedge. The wedging can be done for a quick test, but you really want a more positive mating for the long run.

[Yarisduder]

Hi, I'm trying to do this on my Canadian 2007 Yaris sedan, and there's already a blue wire in the pin40 spot at the ECM. The wires on the steering column aren't there. Does this mean I can't have CC, or do I tap into that blue wire?

[CTScott]

Hi, I'm trying to do this on my Canadian 2007 Yaris sedan, and there's already a blue wire in the pin40 spot at the ECM. The wires on the steering column aren't there. Does this mean I can't have CC, or do I tap into that blue wire?

If you are 100% sure that you are looking at the correct pin as pin 40, then indeed your wire is run from there to the junction connector under the dash. (But not from the junction to the steering column).

That junction is just under the top of the dashboard, so you can't get to it without removing the dash, so the easiest thing would be to tap the blue wire by where it enters the ECM.

[Yarisduder]

It worked!! I am amazed and awed! The dealer told me they can't put cruise control on my car, and with a few old buttons and resistors, plus some scraps of wire I now have CC! Thank you all so much, you've saved the Yaris and my $25K for a new car that would be comfortable on long journeys.

[sk8manmike]

Definitely splice - Don't wedge. The wedging can be done for a quick test, but you really want a more positive mating for the long run.

What's the best way to go about splicing for the CC switch? Shave the wire coat and solder on to it?

[CTScott]

What's the best way to go about splicing for the CC switch? Shave the wire coat and solder on to it?

That, or use a properly sized tap splice.

[mick.wheelz]

has this actually been tried on an AUDM ECM, I know it does not work on euro models (they seem to run different engines/ECM's alltogether)

[mick.wheelz]

has this actually been tried on an AUDM ECM, I know it does not work on euro models (they seem to run different engines/ECM's alltogether)


so i checked my ECM, pin 40 is dead.

[CTScott]

so i checked my ECM, pin 40 is dead.

That makes sense. It seems that the cruise control functionality is only programmed in the USDM Yaris ECM.

[mick.wheelz]

That makes sense. It seems that the cruise control functionality is only programmed in the USDM Yaris ECM.

that sucks, who has a USDM ECM they want to give me :p

[PhillyG]

just a side note... i finally got my parts in today. had them shipped to work because for some odd reason shipping to a business is cheaper. was gonna wait till this weekend and do the install.. notice how i said was? well.... during some down time....... it was really super easy! especially since i read just bout every post on the CC subject. many thanks to everyone! it works.. and looks factory!

[sk8manmike]

I've run into a problem: I can't get the black wire cover off of the ECM Connector A21.

I've read CTScotts tutorial:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26444&highlight=ecm+connector+a21

But i still can't get it off the top so i can insert the wire. I've feel like i'm pulling every direction in can think of to get it off.

Is there something I'm missing?

[CTScott]

I've run into a problem: I can't get the black wire cover off of the ECM Connector A21.

I've read CTScotts tutorial:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26444&highlight=ecm+connector+a21

But i still can't get it off the top so i can insert the wire. I've feel like i'm pulling every direction in can think of to get it off.

Is there something I'm missing?

Once you remove the tiewrap, to remove the black strain relief/cover piece you pry it out, or squeeze it and pull up. It is snapped into the back of the connector.

[sk8manmike]

HOLY CRAP......

Ok let me tell you about the scary thing that happened to me right when i was about to get done with this mod.

I finished attaching my switch to the ECM and was now going to do the wire jump in the fuse box on my 07 MT Yaris..........

I put the first wire inside next to the white cable on the right and as I was putting the cable into the slot with the blue cable --- the car freaking lunged forward about 6 inches. Needless to say it scared the s**t out of me. I had the car on halfway (engine off - lights on), so i thought maybe it just did that because i had it kinda on. I turned it all the way off and tried again - same thing happened.

I attached pictures below to show you what i did and can take more if need be.

So whats going on guys? You think theres something wrong with my switch - like the buttons are always on or something?

When it lunges forward and always sounds like it wants to start - i think it stops because i pull the wire out when it lunges at me.

Any advice?





http://i45.tinypic.com/296eivo.jpg
ECM CONNECTOR

http://i47.tinypic.com/6fni8i.jpg
CURCUIT BOARD

http://i48.tinypic.com/23lb2o7.jpg
FUSE BOX - FOR CC JUMP, I put other wire next to the blue one and it lunges at me.

[CTScott]

Even if the switches are NC instead of NO, it shouldn't try to start. I see you are using a piece of bare wire. Are you sure it is only making contact with the blue and white wires?

By the way, the violet wire between the blue and white is the output to the starter, so making contact with it would indeed crank the starter.

Also, your Sedan is MT, not AT?

[sk8manmike]

MT - i'm pretty sure i've only been touching the blue wire - i made the wire have a lot of bare wire so that i can check the voltage easier

[CTScott]

MT - i'm pretty sure i've only been touching the blue wire - i made the wire have a lot of bare wire so that i can check the voltage easier

Everything looks correct. I would make your connections with the ignition off (and perhaps the battery disconnected as well). Then, carefully connect the battery / turn the ignition on.

[sk8manmike]

I can't seem to produce any Volts between the connection anymore - it took me awhile to get the previous ones too. I'm pretty sure that the connection is whats keeping my CC from working.

Any idea who sells T Splice or something similiar? I'd hate to have to buy it from Amazon and wait another week.

[CTScott]

I can't seem to produce any Volts between the connection anymore - it took me awhile to get the previous ones too. I'm pretty sure that the connection is whats keeping my CC from working.

Any idea who sells T Splice or something similiar? I'd hate to have to buy it from Amazon and wait another week.

Radio shack and most auto parts stores sell them.

Also, to make sure your switches are correct; If you measure the voltage between the two terminals of the first switch, with the ignition on, you should see 12 volts. If you see zero, then your switches are normally closed, instead of normally open.

[sk8manmike]

I'm not getting any voltage on the first switch.

This the switch for all four spots: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062543

One of the reviews states that besides being crappy switches, they have a habit of going to a closed states when worn.

[sk8manmike]

I'm using 22 Gauge Wire - is that what gauge T Splice I should get? I'm not sure what gauge wire runs to the fuse box.

[CTScott]

I'm using 22 Gauge Wire - is that what gauge T Splice I should get? I'm not sure what gauge wire runs to the fuse box.

It's somewhere between 18 and 20 gauge I believe. The tap splices are usually good for a range, so if you can get 22 to 18 gauge ones you'll be fine.

For the no voltage on the switch, measure the red wire to ground (with the ignition on). If that is still zero, then disconnect it from the switch and measure the red wire separately to ground. If it is still zero, than your ECM pin is not properly seated.

[sk8manmike]

Nice - My Terminal in the ECM wasn't completely seated - looking back at my first pic you can clearly tell that its only partly in. I have voltage now going to my switch and i'm going to do the jump and pick up some T Splice afterwards.

[sk8manmike]

Yay! It works......Thank you for constantly moderating this thread CTScott - it's good to know that when you attempt mods on this site your not doing it alone.

[Yarisduder]

Hello,

I just put in an OEM Cruise stalk to replace my little 2 button diy one and I made a discovery regarding the $30 toyota cruise wire. The pins that go into the horn connector as well as connector D3 seem to be the same as those for an R/C servo, example:

http://www.servocity.com/assets/images/Hitec_Gold_Pin_Connector_SC.jpg

It's a little finicky to get them into the white plugs, especially D3 which I discovered has a lock you have to loosen with a tiny flat thing. I don't know if these will work with pin 40. As a bonus the servo connector also fits into the OEM cruise stalk, though its pin spacing is a little wider so it bends the contacts a little, and there's no locking mechanism so I guess it could vibrate loose, though mine feels pretty firmly seated.

Happy DIYing!

[firemachine69]

Sorry to revive this thread here folks, but on a CAD Yaris auto LB (2007), I need the OE Toyota stalk, and the pin-40?

I read the the instructions of Sparks, and no mention is made requiring the pin-40 mod... Therefore, I am a bit lost. :biggrin:

[CTScott]

Sorry to revive this thread here folks, but on a CAD Yaris auto LB (2007), I need the OE Toyota stalk, and the pin-40?

I read the the instructions of Sparks, and no mention is made requiring the pin-40 mod... Therefore, I am a bit lost. :biggrin:


On an 07 you will need to add the wiring from the stalk connector to the ECM pin 40:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25515&highlight=faq+cruise

[firemachine69]

Thanks Scott.

Looked at the Sparks list, apparently it wouldn't be required. Considering my shipping is the cost of the wire, I'd be pretty pissed off if I had to do two separate orders because of their innacurate instructions! :mad:

[darkMINI]

Using the toyota stalk I got from salvage yard on the column, in an '08 MT, is the wiring already in the column for the switch to connect to or would I have to mount this switch stalk elsewhere?