orginal yaris 2005 1,5 turbo 150hk

[mrloseth]

hello, does any one have a list over spesification on my engine?
im wondering if the 1nz-fe are the same engine and the same motor spesification as 1nzfte? i have broken my engine so i must bye a new one..

[CASTREX]

First, there is no such thing as a 1nzfte.

Your car is regular TS 1.5 1nzfe with the factory TRD turbo kit. With that said... yes, you can use any internal from any 1nz as it is the same engine.

Just make sure you swap the injectors and plugs and other components from your engine to the new one. Among the thing included on the TRD kit, were larger injectors...

How did you broke the engine? Did you crank up the boost?

[CASTREX]

thanks for the info:)the car was chip tuned and i was running 0,8-1 bar in boost,it was piston number 4 that said god bye

Well.. there you go!! that'sthe reson why your engine blow!
You should actually be hppy because it lasted quite long.
You broke a connecting rod (that's the hole in your block)


But pushing 1 bar with the stock internals that's crazy... that'twice the stock boost level... what did you expected? Also were you running that on the stock injectors and the OE turbo? I really don't understand why your car didn't blow earlier!!!


You need to upgrade the internals as well as the fuel system if you only concider trying to run 1 bar of boost.

There are forged pistons and rods available for the 1NZ. Just do a search on the forced induction section and you will find it.


To run that boost level you will need larger injectors. Did you had a wide band? If you had the OE injectors you were probaby running very lean...
You will need also a high capacity fuel pump also..

And some good tuning

[CASTREX]

Mods, this should be moved to the FI section.

[CASTREX]

For your car I can only think of Envy Performance in the UK.


In the US there are no cars like yours. However is usually much cheaper to do a custom exhaust instead of buying one...

For your car you should go with a 60mm exhaust with a free flowing resonator at the back.

From my experience anything above 0.7 bar on the 1NZ is just for a matter of time before a rod breaks.

Also, the heat is a big problem... the tiny top mount intercooler is only good for the stock level of boost... also the small turbo at higher than stock boost will produce a lot of heat.

A good idea instead of using a front mount coooler would be to install a water/meth kit. It will probably be cheaper and would help you increase your octane rating and lower you intake temps... I belive you could probably run 0.8bar using water/meth.

But higher than that is just too much for this engine... your friend with the 1.2bar Yaris... he must be very gentle on the pedal....
On stock internals that is just a bomb ticking...

[CASTREX]

hehe, my friend have driven on race track also:) he is crasy. so i dont know why his car do last:)

i have heard that i would get an default code if i remove the katylisator? beacause the car have 2 lamda sond?

so you think that i can adjust the boost to 0,7 bar?

i also did get a complete part list from toyota today, the bok is om 35 pages, and i can say that tey have did alot to the t-sport turbo..:) gearbox suspenion,stabilisator,clutch,shift cabel,outputshaft,radiator,break,discwheel,label,o il cooler, and many many more things:)
it vould be cool to know hov many cars they made ?:)

Yes, I think that 0.7bar would be a good compromise. As long as you can tune it and are sure your fuel mixture and ignition timing is good. Otherwise you could pre-detonate even at 0.7 and blow the engine again.

The Turbo T-sport is not really that different. Some of the parts you mentioned like gear box (C56 manual trans), clutch, stabilizer, suspension etc are all standard part on the regular yaris T-sport.

The Turbo T-Sport was not manufactured by Toyota directly. the turbo came as a kit from TRD and was installed by the Toyota dealers... so it looked like it came like that from the factory.

The TRD kit included the IHI Turbo, manifold, downpipe, larger injectors, re-maped ECU, Top Mount intercooler and that was it.

Over here that kit was sold for $5K from the dealers and was offered from 2004-2006.

[mrloseth]

.

The TRD kit included the IHI Turbo, manifold, downpipe, larger injectors, re-maped ECU, Top Mount intercooler and that was it.

Over here that kit was sold for $5K from the dealers and was offered from 2004-2006.[/QUOTE]

okey, have you tested out removing both of the catylisator mufflers?? do i get an default code? do you know how big thw injectors are? and spec on the turbo..?

[CASTREX]

.

The TRD kit included the IHI Turbo, manifold, downpipe, larger injectors, re-maped ECU, Top Mount intercooler and that was it.

Over here that kit was sold for $5K from the dealers and was offered from 2004-2006.

okey, have you tested out removing both of the catylisator mufflers?? do i get an default code? do you know how big thw injectors are? and spec on the turbo..?[/QUOTE]

Yeap, I removed the cats. And yes, the car will turn on a CEL ( Check engine light) but there are some easy ways to clear that light. You just need to place an spacer between the send lambda sensor and the exhaust.

You can get one here: (and this store will ship internationally)
http://shop.microimageonline.com/product.sc?productId=70&categoryId=9


That spacer fools the sensor so it doesn't know the cat is missing and therefore you get no light...!



And I would also want to know the rate for the injectors in the kit... but TRD never publised the spec on those. At least I haven't been able to find them.


A good injector upgrade that it will bolt on in your engine is the 2AZ-FE injectors.
That's the 4cyl 2.4L engine from the Camry and Rav4. Those are 370cc and are good for about 200whp.

[CASTREX]

Here is a picture of the kit.... if you can read japanese! :bellyroll:

http://www.trdparts.jp/image/plan-6.jpg

[AlexNet0]

I can read japanese pictures!, just not the words

[puetato89]

wait, sorry 2 hijack this thread, but technically, could i buy the trd turbo setup of that year, and ecu and run it perfectly with no ecl??

[CASTREX]

wait, sorry 2 hijack this thread, but technically, could i buy the trd turbo setup of that year, and ecu and run it perfectly with no ecl??

The TRD turbo kit is no longer for sale! Good luck trying to find one.

Technically yes you could use it... but you will have to deal with some issues regarding the ECU as the 1st gen Yaris had cable throtel and and regular power steering, when your car has electronic throtel and electric steering. But i'm sure you could get away with it.

But then again... for the price you can get your own turbo kit... and get better power

[CASTREX]

cool:) so then i only drill ha hole in the elbow and put the sensor number two in the spacer ant i wouldnt get any problems??

did you feel any diffrence on the power when you built an new exhaust? i think im going for the 2,5" dim? did you get more boost also?



it would be stupid off me to install bigger injectors on the new stock engine?



thank you very much for your answers:):))


You don't need to drill anything! You just need to unplug the secondary sensor, put the spacer in the hole and then re instal the sensor into the spacer... pretty simple!


The exhaust did a big difference! It always does on turbo cars. And yes, 2.5 inches is the right size for this engine.

The exhaust will help the turbo to spool up faster and it will give you some power gains at the top end of the power band.

Installing bigger injectors is not stupid if your boost levels requires them.

My advise is to look for a tuning shop, get some wideband readings as well as your current injectors duty cycle to determine how are you running... if you are running above 85% duty cycle then I would advise getting some new injectors.

Is hard to tell you exactly what to do, with out all the information. The best advise is to get some professional tuning...

Is you chip progamable? What are you running?

[puetato89]

thanx guys, very good info, i guess i could have just asked garm, lol

[mrloseth]

hello...
today i found out what the name on the turbo on my yaris, the spec are:
IHI spec rhf4 parts:03061-16-1246 1702 yw602

i have tyed to google som info but i havent yet found out the spec..?

[mrloseth]

hello...
today i found out what the name on the turbo on my yaris, the spec are:
IHI spec rhf4 parts:03061-16-1246 1702 yw602

i have tyed to google som info but i havent yet found out the spec..?

http://www.ihi-turbo.com/turbo_RHE-RHF.htm

[CASTREX]

Yep... that's the one!

[shtou]

removing the cat from 1.8 TS standard yaris and install a new exhaust helps the acceleration?

[CASTREX]

removing the cat from 1.8 TS standard yaris and install a new exhaust helps the acceleration?

The removal of a CAT will give you a very small gain...

This is what I did with very good results:

I removed only the secondary cat (our car has 2 cats) and left the primary cat alone, that way the car will pass emmissions test.

Then I removed all the exhaust from the primary cat back and replace it by a custom unit. I used 2.25" pipe, a resonator and a rear chambered muffler.

Sounds great and I felt some good gains on the top range mostly.

[mrloseth]

Yep... that's the one!

i recived the o2 sensor fouler today, so now i can bye an complete 2,25" from the elbow:) and hope fore more power:) im wondering if the boost will go up??

[CASTREX]

i recived the o2 sensor fouler today, so now i can bye an complete 2,25" from the elbow:) and hope fore more power:) im wondering if the boost will go up??


The boost will not go up. The boost level is controlled by the internal wastegate spring on the turbo.

2 main benefits you will get from the free flowing exhaust...

Better turbo spool up ( reaction time ) and you will pick up a few HP's mostly on the higher Revs...

[mrloseth]

today i recived my car back from the work shop, so now i have a brand new engine, whats the best way to brake in the engine? when can i use the full engine power? any tips? :)

[CASTREX]

so my mind whas thinking of 0,65 bar boost and complete exhaust from elbow without cat, what do you think? would it be a risk doing so?

The car won't lean out because of the exhaust, don't worry about that.

If you raise the boost to 0.65bar the car will definitely lean out and you will be on risk again.

You need to understand that the ECU in your car was programmed by TRD to run very low boost... You can raise your boost as long as you have some way to properly tune your fuel and timing. You will need a programmable ECU or piggy back to do that, such as a Greddy emanage or SAFC, AEM FIC.


Another option that you have in order to raise the boost to 0.65 safely, is using a water/ meth injection system. Usually a water meth set up will suppress the knock an will allow you to raise your boost level with no further tuning.

[CASTREX]

I don't know what to tell you as I have no idea what you mean by chip tuned.

In an earlier post you mentioned that the chip only raised the rev limit. Does the chip also controls fuel and timing?

What where you A/F readings when you were boosting 1bar? I can't imagine how your injectors were able to provide enough fuel at that boost level...

The best advise that I can give you... if you want to make the most out of your car with out braking it again is to take it to a reputable tuner to install a REAL programmable computer. Only doing that you will be able to control all the critical parameters. SI not only about fuel... You need to take out ignition timing... this is a high compression engine... you have to relay on a very good tune if you are increasing the boost.

In simple words... it will be expensive to safely increase the boost...

[CASTREX]

When you aare running higher boost than stock you have to be very careful. A correct MAP for your set up is the key. I don't know if the car will go lean just becasue of the exhaust but i would suggest not to take your chances.

Get the exhaust done and then get the car remaped properly. You will feel better dirving your car afterwards.


The problem with the open blow off valve is that in some occasions the car will go too rich and stall... mostly because you are releasing air that was already measured by your MAF.
This is usually not much of a problem... i know of 2 yaris running with vented BOV's with no problem.

At stock boost level the car doesn't really NEED one (hence why TRD didn't added one) but for the sake of your turbo, if you are raising the boost it is definetely a good idea to instal one BOV.

You can always recirculate the BOV, like most of the OE turbo cars... you can use a regular Bosch valve from a VW/Audi and have the air recirculated back to the intake.
That way the car won't stall and you will be protecting your turbo...

[CASTREX]

Do you know off any one else that have removed the cat`s and put on 2,25" exhaust on the turbo yaris?

the other one i know have the same car and map as me and he have removed the biggest cat an 2,25" exhaust, and open filter, and open bov, and he have 1,0-1,2 bar off boost..:) i dont know why is car do last this:P


so my teori was that if i build the exhaust but i remove all the cat`s, and run stock boost i think that the only diffrence i would feel is more power, and the only danger i think is that i would get an faster spool up on the turbo, but i hope that this wouldnt be any problem?! do you know if the others you know did get faster spool up? bacause the tunning firm said that it was the faster spool ut that could be the problem.because maybe the map wouldnt give enought fuel if the boost started earlier.. good teori?

i dont dont thik that its any problem to run stock boost and exhaust..:


The problem with the open blow off valve is that in some occasions the car will go too rich and stall... mostly because you are releasing air that was already measured by your MAF.
This is usually not much of a problem... i know of 2 yaris running with vented BOV's with no problem.

i did have bov on the engine before the engine did blow up, but now i dont have any, but i dont think that it would be any problem to put it on again?


I know of 2 Yaris here running catless and 2.25 and 2.5 exhausts with the stock map with no problem.
The spool up will improve... but is not that much!! These cars are lagless from the box. So I would not be worried about that.

And the BOV should not be a problem either..

[mrloseth]

I know of 2 Yaris here running catless and 2.25 and 2.5 exhausts with the stock map with no problem.
The spool up will improve... but is not that much!! These cars are lagless from the box. So I would not be worried about that.

And the BOV should not be a problem either..

thank you for all the info:)

:bow::bow:

i think that i will build the exhaust and put on the bov, and leave the stock boost att 0,5 bar, because then the car woul last longer i think:):) the new engine wouks good so far:)

[mrloseth]

hello castrex, i got one question for you if you know, the do you know if the first muffler after the turbo is an catlysator? or just an filter ?
i im just wondering if there is any help to remove it.

[CASTREX]

hello castrex, i got one question for you if you know, the do you know if the first muffler after the turbo is an catlysator? or just an filter ?
i im just wondering if there is any help to remove it.

Yes, that is a cat.

If you don't need to take the gar for inspection you can remove it. It's usually ilegal in many places. Not sure in your country.

You can probbaly gain a couple extra HP taking the cat out. You can also replace it with a high flow race cat.

[mrloseth]

Yes, that is a cat.

If you don't need to take the gar for inspection you can remove it. It's usually ilegal in many places. Not sure in your country.

You can probbaly gain a couple extra HP taking the cat out. You can also replace it with a high flow race cat.

okey, i was thinking off removing the cat number two att first,:) i did install an aem wideband yesturday, and att full throttle att 3-4 gear the messure was 10,0 att 4500-6200rpm the aem doesent messure lower:/ so i think i have enought fuel, , i have stock boost and stock exhaust now.

[mrloseth]

yesturday i did messure my wideband..the results: started att 1500rpm on 5gear messurements: 1700rpm 13,0....1900rpm 13,3....2300rpm 13,4....2500rpm 13,7...... 2700rpm 13,9..... 2800rpm.14,0....3000rpm-13,5...3200rpm 12,0... 3500rpm 11.8.... 3800rpm-10.7...4000-6200 rpm 10,0

castrex : what do think? this messure are with stock boost.
i think maybe it a bit lean att 2800 rpm?
what would hapen if i bouild exhaust?

im going to do an new messure today and see if i do get the same

[CASTREX]

yesturday i did messure my wideband..the results: started att 1500rpm on 5gear messurements: 1700rpm 13,0....1900rpm 13,3....2300rpm 13,4....2500rpm 13,7...... 2700rpm 13,9..... 2800rpm.14,0....3000rpm-13,5...3200rpm 12,0... 3500rpm 11.8.... 3800rpm-10.7...4000-6200 rpm 10,0

castrex : what do think? this messure are with stock boost.
i think maybe it a bit lean att 2800 rpm?
what would hapen if i bouild exhaust?

im going to do an new messure today and see if i do get the same


These numbers don't tell much unless you can add the boost figures also. It does a bit lean at 2800 as you said if you are indeed boosting at that RPMS.

It does also look quite rich at the top end... if you could lean that out you will gain some power up top.

How many psi are you seeing at 2500/2800 rpm?

Overall it doesn't look bad. You have enough fuel obviously. Some fine tuning would help. Why don't you try getting a SAFC or a greddy emange? You should be fine if you build a full exhaust.

[mrloseth]

These numbers don't tell much unless you can add the boost figures also. It does a bit lean at 2800 as you said if you are indeed boosting at that RPMS.

It does also look quite rich at the top end... if you could lean that out you will gain some power up top.

How many psi are you seeing at 2500/2800 rpm?

Overall it doesn't look bad. You have enough fuel obviously. Some fine tuning would help. Why don't you try getting a SAFC or a greddy emange? You should be fine if you build a full exhaust.


i got 0,5 bar boost at 1700 rpm and i have the same boost att 6200 rpm.. the car is now totaly stock.. so you think that it wouldnt be a problem to bouild exhaust now?:)

[CASTREX]

i got 0,5 bar boost at 1700 rpm and i have the same boost att 6200 rpm.. the car is now totaly stock.. so you think that it wouldnt be a problem to bouild exhaust now?:)

if you are running stock boost on the original ECU you are OK to build an exhaust.

OK so you are hitting full boost at 1,700rpm so it seems like you are running a bit lean from 1,700rpm to above 3,200rpm I would still think about some sort of management like a emanage, SAFC, AEM FIC so you can load a smother curve. But overll you seem to be fine. TRD knows what they are doing... and as long as you don't raise the boost, an aftermarket exhaust should not be a problem.

[mrloseth]

if you are running stock boost on the original ECU you are OK to build an exhaust.

OK so you are hitting full boost at 1,700rpm so it seems like you are running a bit lean from 1,700rpm to above 3,200rpm I would still think about some sort of management like a emanage, SAFC, AEM FIC so you can load a smother curve. But overll you seem to be fine. TRD knows what they are doing... and as long as you don't raise the boost, an aftermarket exhaust should not be a problem.


http://www.greddy.com/products/display/?Category=electronics&SubCategory=47

it seems like they have kit also for my car?

is it difficult to program this?

[CASTREX]

http://www.greddy.com/products/display/?Category=electronics&SubCategory=47

it seems like they have kit also for my car?

is it difficult to program this?


Yep they do. Is not difficult if you know what you are doing... If you understand the basics of engine tuning and are willing to take some risks you can do it your self. My advise, look for a local Emanage tuner. This is a very popular device, finding a tuner for it shouldn't be that difficult.