View Full Version : Front pad lifespan.
o89canucks
09-07-2009, 08:18 PM
Was wondering what everyone else was seeing for average lifespan of the front brake pads on their cars. Just did the brakes this weekend at 38k miles and the front pads had minimal wear. Had a little bit of a shimmy in the front end so I still opted to get the rotors turned out, and reused the original factory pads. Just seemed to me to be a lot of mileage on those pads to be seeing that minimal amount of wear and wondering if this was normal for everyone else?
Brian
09-07-2009, 08:28 PM
Atleast 100k mi
Kamikaze1987
09-07-2009, 08:44 PM
I got 45k so far and was gonna change them this weekend but they still looked new and the rotors were perfect... my friend was amazed at how long the little pads lasted so far
AlexNet0
09-07-2009, 08:54 PM
i just changed mine at 65k and there was still pad left.
Kaotic Lazagna
09-07-2009, 10:29 PM
I have like 42k, and I hear the indicator probably once a week. So I'm going to change them out and keep them as back ups since there should be some life in them still. Someone here told me that light braking is worse than heavy braking (I always did light braking).
hafeez
09-08-2009, 02:37 AM
I changed my pads this weekend and my car is at 80k right now. They had a little life left in them but i'll keep them as backups just in case. I was just wondering about the brake shoes though; how do you know when to change them?
texkid
09-08-2009, 03:12 AM
Reaching 30,000 miles and the mechanic says the shoes and pads still look new. Only had to turn the front rotors at about 20,000 miles (roughly).
o89canucks
09-08-2009, 09:18 AM
I changed my pads this weekend and my car is at 80k right now. They had a little life left in them but i'll keep them as backups just in case. I was just wondering about the brake shoes though; how do you know when to change them?
Pull off the rear drums and check shoe thickness. I would replace them if they have heavy stress cracks in them also. May as well do a clean and adjust while you are in there if the shoes don't need to be replaced.
supmet
09-08-2009, 12:29 PM
Reaching 30,000 miles and the mechanic says the shoes and pads still look new. Only had to turn the front rotors at about 20,000 miles (roughly).
How can the pads look like new if you already had to turn your front rotors?
o89canucks
09-08-2009, 12:36 PM
How can the pads look like new if you already had to turn your front rotors?
The rotors can still get warped or glaze over without wearing much of the actual pad surface off.
Tamago
09-08-2009, 12:45 PM
i got 50K miles out of my set, and that included autocrossing almost every weekend for 3 years.
my corolla i did 75K miles and still had plenty of pad.
and my 1988 pickup did 280Kmiles on it's first set
Yaris Hilton
09-08-2009, 01:12 PM
The rotors can still get warped or glaze over without wearing much of the actual pad surface off.
It's pretty much unheard of for disk brake rotors to actually warp. They get irregular patches of brake pad material deposited on the surface when used hard, especially if left with the pads in stationary contact with them while hot (i.e., the car's stopped for a bit after making a hard panic stop), and that makes the car shudder and pedal pulsate. Turning the rotor takes that off and gives a clean new surface, but they may also clean up with gentle normal use for a while, or with vigorous cleaning.
1stToyota
09-08-2009, 02:14 PM
It's pretty much unheard of for disk brake rotors to actually warp. They get irregular patches of brake pad material deposited on the surface when used hard, especially if left with the pads in stationary contact with them while hot (i.e., the car's stopped for a bit after making a hard panic stop), and that makes the car shudder and pedal pulsate. Turning the rotor takes that off and gives a clean new surface, but they may also clean up with gentle normal use for a while, or with vigorous cleaning.
I don't know. I've turned lots of rotors over the years and what I see is runout and warpage (as in making two or three passes and still only removing metal at...let's say 12 o'clock, outboard, and 7 o'clock, inboard, for example). Now's the best time to see warped rotors because they're made so thin to save weight that they're usually below machine minimum (not discard thickness) after using up 1 set of pads.
Tamago
09-08-2009, 02:17 PM
what's this noise about rotors not warping? lol
lilredrocket
09-08-2009, 02:49 PM
I have warped rotors and have turned warped rotors. It happens....
o89canucks
09-08-2009, 02:53 PM
It's pretty much unheard of for disk brake rotors to actually warp. They get irregular patches of brake pad material deposited on the surface when used hard, especially if left with the pads in stationary contact with them while hot (i.e., the car's stopped for a bit after making a hard panic stop), and that makes the car shudder and pedal pulsate. Turning the rotor takes that off and gives a clean new surface, but they may also clean up with gentle normal use for a while, or with vigorous cleaning.
Who told you that pile of garbage???
I have resurfaced a lot of rotors and you can definetly tell that a rotor has lateral runout when it is on the brake lathe. Take a hot rotor and drive through a puddle or snow and it is like taking a hot pan off the stove and pouring cold water into it from the sink. I have even seen the lateral runout be so bad (most common in Mitsubishi's) that the steering wheel will have a shimmy while the brakes aren't applied.
The clamping force of the pads against the rotor is so stong that even if your theory of "brake pad deposits" had any truth to it, the "brake pad deposits" would be removed the very next time that you braked.
I guess flywheels never get hotspots in them either or warp out and never need to be resurfaced either if this theory were true?
Yaris Hilton
09-08-2009, 05:06 PM
There are lots of other experienced mechanics who'd disagree with you on those points. I'll cite this reference:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
1stToyota
09-08-2009, 05:13 PM
While pads do a fine job at removing rust they're not cutting bits for removing large amounts of iron, and holding steady pressure on a stomped pedal isn't the same as locking bits down in place on a lathe.
o89canucks
09-08-2009, 05:54 PM
There are lots of other experienced mechanics who'd disagree with you on those points. I'll cite this reference:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
If I remember correctly, this post was about longevity of the front brake pads, not on if rotors warp or not.
and for the stoptech garbage, you don't believe all the crap you read on the internet, do you?
Lafiro
09-09-2009, 06:07 PM
I just got my car back from being at the shop for 5+ weeks... should make a thread on that one.
But finally driving my sedan and not my dads new SUV, makes me feel different, I love the cars handling again. But its sooo much lower lol. And no more leather anywhere.... and no more sunroof, and no more navi/XM ect...
ANYWAY!
So yes, my car has like what 60+k miles, and the pads look almost no different then from day one, and I usually stomp on them all the time, no slow stops for me. Maybe thats the difference? And although they stop the car just fine, I wish they would stop it faster, maybe thats the effects of these pads/rotors? The drums are fine as I just adjusted them a while ago. hmmmm I wonder what to do, but then again better not to fix something that isnt broken as they say.
kngrsll
09-09-2009, 06:33 PM
If I remember correctly, this post was about longevity of the front brake pads, not on if rotors warp or not.
and for the stoptech garbage, you don't believe all the crap you read on the internet, do you?
those engineers from stoptech cant know more than guys on the internet!
i got 60k out of my oem pads with a half dozen track days and lots of autoxes.
Kaotic Lazagna
09-09-2009, 06:33 PM
I think I also need to adjust my drums. I'll probably follow Jason's DIY on that.
WolfWings
09-10-2009, 03:08 AM
I have even seen the lateral runout be so bad (most common in Mitsubishi's) that the steering wheel will have a shimmy while the brakes aren't applied.
Oh gods, this, right here, and frying alternators so often most folks with this car I know keep a spare one in the trunk and can change it in under five minutes, are the two things I don't miss at all about owning a DSM Eclipse.
Being able to run up to triples in 3rd gear though was always nice, since mine was the FWD model. Muscle cars hate it when you just cruise past them frantically mashing their shifter up and down while you keep both hands on the steering wheel, thinking an automatic just beat them. Nah, just good gearing.
As for the brake pads: 45k here, they still look almost new, rotors and shoes too. I engine-brake as much as I can though, I'll admit, to the point friends always insist I ride at the rear of convoy's because I never give any visual warning of my speed to those behind me.
Lafiro
09-10-2009, 10:17 AM
I noticed that my rotors seem fine too, no lip or anything, at all, and it just amazes me.
But on a side note, I noticed the car does a lot of very heavy engine breaking. I do not understand why. Like I let go of the gas, and it really starts to slow down, even though its not revving high at all. I tested this on my dads new car, and it will go on almost forever stating +60MPG and barely slowly down.
So what gives here with my Yaris? : (
o89canucks
09-10-2009, 05:51 PM
those engineers from stoptech cant know more than guys on the internet!
i got 60k out of my oem pads with a half dozen track days and lots of autoxes.
any idiot nowadays can be an "engineer" with all the online degrees available. :drinking:
1stToyota
09-10-2009, 06:52 PM
I noticed that my rotors seem fine too, no lip or anything, at all, and it just amazes me.
But on a side note, I noticed the car does a lot of very heavy engine breaking. I do not understand why. Like I let go of the gas, and it really starts to slow down, even though its not revving high at all. I tested this on my dads new car, and it will go on almost forever stating +60MPG and barely slowly down.
So what gives here with my Yaris? : (
Help my brain out...you're the one that adjusted your rear brakes awhile back and had only 1-2 clicks at the hand brake...?
WolfWings
09-11-2009, 04:25 AM
I noticed that my rotors seem fine too, no lip or anything, at all, and it just amazes me.
But on a side note, I noticed the car does a lot of very heavy engine breaking. I do not understand why. Like I let go of the gas, and it really starts to slow down, even though its not revving high at all. I tested this on my dads new car, and it will go on almost forever stating +60MPG and barely slowly down.
So what gives here with my Yaris? : (
Very few cars have complete fuel cut-off. That's something I got used to having back with that DSM Eclipse I mentioned, it was one of the first consumer-grade sports cars I'm aware of that would shut off the fuel injectors entirely as long as your revs were a couple hundred above idle, so the engine could provide a relatively decent engine-braking effect.
Same thing with the Yaris: It has a LOT more engine braking power than a 1.5l mid-80's Civic, for example, because the mid-80's Civic never stops sputtering fuel in and exploding it, giving little nudges. Yaris? Same effect as turning off the engine whenever you're coasting with your foot off the gas pedal entirely.
seth_man
09-11-2009, 08:54 AM
ive got 43k Miles on my stock brakes. 7 track days and never any brake issues. i have adjusted and cleaned the rears twice but still lots of friction material left front and rear and my rotors are now blue but still roll straight. :thumbup: at 40k i cleaned the brakes and measured the lining thickness, i still have 9.2mm of 12mm on the front pads and 2.9mm of 4mm on the rear shoes.
pennyracer
09-11-2009, 10:39 AM
hitting 56000 miles not ready for pads yet i think its due to fwy miles but its cool would have thaught i needed new pads by now im sure it right around the corner
talnlnky
09-11-2009, 11:50 AM
34k... I do a lot of engine braking so i'd be surprised if I need new pads before 70,000 miles. Hopefully I can make it to 100,000.
Lafiro
09-11-2009, 12:10 PM
If most of us, like me, are reporting almost like new brake pads, and rotors that don't have any lip and look/perform just fine, I won't be suprised if most of us make it to 120,000Miles being needing to change them out.
As for the rear drums and shoes, the shoes would most likely have to go before 70k. I think I noticed mine had cracks last time I checked, so I will look at them one more them in a week or two before it gets colder.
100K and mine need to be replaced.
bronsin
08-12-2011, 06:30 PM
Who told you that pile of garbage???
I have resurfaced a lot of rotors and you can definetly tell that a rotor has lateral runout when it is on the brake lathe. Take a hot rotor and drive through a puddle or snow and it is like taking a hot pan off the stove and pouring cold water into it from the sink. I have even seen the lateral runout be so bad (most common in Mitsubishi's) that the steering wheel will have a shimmy while the brakes aren't applied.
The clamping force of the pads against the rotor is so stong that even if your theory of "brake pad deposits" had any truth to it, the "brake pad deposits" would be removed the very next time that you braked.
I guess flywheels never get hotspots in them either or warp out and never need to be resurfaced either if this theory were true?
Lets put it this way:
MY rotors never warp.
Nor the flywheel.
I have seen them warp from over tightening lug nuts or incorrectly torquing them.
nookandcrannycar
03-17-2012, 02:59 AM
I just had my serpentine belt replaced for the first time last week at 207,135 miles and I had them check my brakes as well. My brakes are wearing evenly and are only 20 percent worn. I think the rate of wear is partially due to driving habits and partially due to the terrain where you live. I do a lot of engine braking as well as coasting up to traffic signals when it is safe to do so. I also usually drive at the speed limit or up to 5 MPH under the speed limit. I think that those of us who live (or normally drive) in flat or RELATIVELY flat areas (I live in Southern Montgomery County, just north of Houston and you in St. Louis) also get more miles from our brakes. I previously lived (and most of my extended family still lives) in the San Francisco Bay Area and generally people wear their brakes out MUCH faster there.
i just replaced mine at 100 000KM but car sat for 5 months and the rotors were soooo rusted the pads were braking on 10% of the surface the calliper pins were sticking
i put 6$ worth of grease in them so it should be fine
detroiter
03-17-2012, 02:38 PM
I'm at 131,000 and have original pads/rotors.
walt101786
03-20-2012, 07:15 PM
I got like 70k on my HB and still got like 45-49% left on the front and the rear....i resurfaced the front rotor once and clean and readjust the rear...so far its good for me...
GeneralDon7
04-01-2012, 01:01 AM
Just passed 110,000 with original pads and rotors and still have a quite bit left (more than my wifes 2007 prius :thumbup:)
En4sir
08-19-2012, 01:47 PM
I have 115,000 miles on my 2009 HB and still have all the original brake components. I plan on doing a brake job in the near future though.
dinoman
08-19-2012, 03:58 PM
i think the brake wear really depends on how you drive. obviously if you are in NYC and doing stop and go all the time, you will wear the brake/rotor much faster than someone like me who only drive on a highway. Pretty much no braking for me and I was on my original pad for like 100K. I only replaced mine was because firestone in my neighborhood had a $99 break job with a set of Wagner thermoquiet ceramic pads. Considering that a shop charged me $40 to cut the rotors on another car, I thought it was a decent price for not doing it myself.
nookandcrannycar
08-19-2012, 06:12 PM
I have a bit over 223k miles at the moment on my car and I had the brakes checked at 207,165 miles and at that point, each corner-----LF, RF, LR, RR, = worn 20%/80% remaining.
craigq
08-19-2012, 08:26 PM
Just replaced the front pads and rotors last week, about 67K miles. Both rotors had lips on each side, the pads were wearing unevenly too. The passenger side rotor had a bizarre wear pattern, it looked like about 50% of the contact patch that the driver side had (no pulling or shaking/vibrations while braking though). It must be all of the salt they put on the roads up here in the winter... The piston-side/inboard pad was worn a bit more than the outboard pad, but the sliders looked okay and it moved freely by hand.
Viperoni
08-19-2012, 11:10 PM
2 or 3 sets of pads a year, or 20k miles. Rotors seem to last around 1.5 years or 30k miles.
Yeah, the car sees some track time LOL.
Also, "warped" rotors are the pad's or your fault, not the rotor.
nookandcrannycar
08-20-2012, 01:51 AM
I have a bit over 223k miles at the moment on my car and I had the brakes checked at 207,165 miles and at that point, each corner-----LF, RF, LR, RR, = worn 20%/80% remaining.
I forgot to include they are original, no replacement yet
Of course. Their is always someone like this on every internet forum.
yaris2010RS
08-20-2012, 05:32 PM
im at 103k km and i need to replace them, not really because the pads are low but because the rotors are warped and getting worse quickly. i did buy the new pads and rotors last weekend but havent had time to change them. im debating if i should just get the old ones turned, still lots of life left in pads
nookandcrannycar
08-20-2012, 05:39 PM
Of course. Their is always someone like this on every internet forum.
....written by someone (you) who doesn't know the difference between their and there:eek:.
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