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View Full Version : Oil Plug do you prefer Ratchet or Box end wrench?


The Shape
09-15-2009, 08:42 PM
I am doing all the service on our Yaris these days to save cash. I am just paranoid about stripping the oil plug. Which do you think is easier to control and less likely to strip a ratchet or box end?

Tamago
09-15-2009, 09:19 PM
hopefully it's not so tight that you need anything more than a combination wrench to take it off. either/or will work. even a 9/16"

AlexNet0
09-15-2009, 09:25 PM
I use a ratchet to get it started, then a box wrench so I dont soak my arm in oil

jambo101
09-15-2009, 09:46 PM
When i do my own oil I prefer a ratchet but lately i am curious about the Fumoto Valve system of changing oil.
http://www.fumoto.com.au/

Tamago
09-15-2009, 09:48 PM
that's really bulky and oddly valved.

there are better options out there. brb i'll find one

edit: http://horsepowerperformance.com/i-1213615-quick-drain-oil-pan-coupling-male-half-m14-x-1-5-thread-size-1-52in-x-96in-1-1-16-hex-size-20-24-lbs-ft-min-assembly-torque.html

Aeroquip is good stuff.

The Shape
09-15-2009, 10:00 PM
The Fumoto wouldn't be that bad on the Yaris considering where the dran plus is on the side of the pan, but I would hate to try it on my Tacoma that sticks straight down. The Aeroquip stuff looks nice

The Shape
09-15-2009, 11:25 PM
Ehhh I think I may just go back to letting the dealer do the service. I am getting so old and Lazy LOL :biggrin:

jambo101
09-16-2009, 06:13 AM
Last couple of years i've been getting my mechanic to change the oil.he charges $60 considering the synthetic oil up here is close to $40 and a dealer filter is $10 its worth the extra $10,especially in winter.

bearda
09-16-2009, 09:10 AM
Get a torque wrench and a socket. A decent beam-type wrench will run you about $20, and you'll never have to worry about stripping out the drain plug again.

Tamago
09-16-2009, 09:15 AM
the amount of torque required to strip those M14 (or M12) threads would be in the neighborhood of 200lb/ft. i highly doubt that a person could exert that kind of force lying down under their car with a box end wrench.

torque wrench is overkill, just get the plug "tight"

The Shape
09-16-2009, 09:22 AM
Last couple of years i've been getting my mechanic to change the oil.he charges $60 considering the synthetic oil up here is close to $40 and a dealer filter is $10 its worth the extra $10,especially in winter.


It cost me about 45 bucks at the dealer for an oil change and tire rotation and they fill up my washer fluid. Combined with the fact I don't have to drag out my drain pan, wrench, ramps ect. it is sounding like a better and better deal.

Tamago
09-16-2009, 09:38 AM
keep in mind that they're putting recycled oil in your car. your $45 goes toward labor mostly.

R2D2
09-16-2009, 11:55 AM
When i do my own oil I prefer a ratchet but lately i am curious about the Fumoto Valve system of changing oil.
http://www.fumoto.com.au/

I've had these on two previous vehicles and love them. Very user friendly and make changing oil even easier and cleaner. I am hesitant to put one on my Yaris though due to relatively low ground clearance and road debris concerns.

The Aeroquip that Tamago posted though looks like the ticket for a Yaris-I just might have to order one of those.

Tamago your commission check is in the mail, I'm sure!

R2

The Shape
09-16-2009, 12:16 PM
keep in mind that they're putting recycled oil in your car. your $45 goes toward labor mostly.

Toyota Oil is recycled????

R2D2
09-16-2009, 12:40 PM
Oh, I forgot to mention that for the first removal of the drain plug I recommend you use a 6 pt socket. Mine was really anchored in there (the filter was also ridiculously tight). After that if you don't crank on it putting it back in a box end would be fine IMO.

R2

Tamago
09-16-2009, 12:40 PM
Toyota Oil is recycled????

dealers buy oil in bulk, from their local oil distributor. it is usually recycled. if you personally see the tech open 4 bottles of oil and put them in your car, then i am wrong. but if they use an oil delivery gun it's most likely recycled oil.

The Shape
09-16-2009, 12:54 PM
Oh, yeah I took my Tacoma in for service earlier today actually. I watched the tech walk to the parts counter and the guy give him a Toyota Filter and Toyota brand oil.

06silveryaris
09-16-2009, 01:44 PM
It cost me about 45 bucks at the dealer for an oil change and tire rotation and they fill up my washer fluid. Combined with the fact I don't have to drag out my drain pan, wrench, ramps ect. it is sounding like a better and better deal.


you can get 5 qts dino and a decent filter at any chain like pepboys
for $15

The Shape
09-16-2009, 03:02 PM
You are probably right, but just feel better leting the dealer do it.

PHXDEMON
09-16-2009, 11:47 PM
the amount of torque required to strip those M14 (or M12) threads would be in the neighborhood of 200lb/ft. i highly doubt that a person could exert that kind of force lying down under their car with a box end wrench.

torque wrench is overkill, just get the plug "tight"

I agree but you see stripped drain plugs all the time still. That's why I ALWAYS change my own oil.

bronsin
09-17-2009, 10:00 AM
I am doing all the service on our Yaris these days to save cash. I am just paranoid about stripping the oil plug. Which do you think is easier to control and less likely to strip a ratchet or box end?


There are two kinds of stripping. One is rounding off the corners of the bolt so your wrench/socket spins around and around when you try to tighten/loosen it. The other involves dammaging the threads so you cant tighten them to the proper torque.
If you get a Snap On socket/wrench they are specially made and wont strip the hex. Even if the corners of the fastner are rounded it will still tighten and loosen it perfectly. Its broached to fit the middle of the flats instead of the corners. They are expensive!
Should you round the corners of the bolt you can always buy another one! And you can use a Visegrip to remove the dammaged one so you can replace it.
As for stripping the threads just take your time and snug the bolt up by hand first. It should be possible to start the bolt by hand and tighten it up to the pan with your fingers. Then it requires on about a half turn or so with the wrench/socket to tighten it.
You just need to take your time and dont hurry and exercise a little care. Ive had cars for hundreds of thousands of miles and used the same drain bolt every time! (I did strip one once!) I prefer a wrench to a socket for changeing the oil. If you can find one get a 14mm Snap On wrench because they are specially made to not to strip the nut and even work on stripped ones!

o89canucks
09-20-2009, 01:12 PM
There are two kinds of stripping. One is rounding off the corners of the bolt so your wrench/socket spins around and around when you try to tighten/loosen it. The other involves dammaging the threads so you cant tighten them to the proper torque.
If you get a Snap On socket/wrench they are specially made and wont strip the hex. Even if the corners of the fastner are rounded it will still tighten and loosen it perfectly. Its broached to fit the middle of the flats instead of the corners. They are expensive!
Should you round the corners of the bolt you can always buy another one! And you can use a Visegrip to remove the dammaged one so you can replace it.
As for stripping the threads just take your time and snug the bolt up by hand first. It should be possible to start the bolt by hand and tighten it up to the pan with your fingers. Then it requires on about a half turn or so with the wrench/socket to tighten it.
You just need to take your time and dont hurry and exercise a little care. Ive had cars for hundreds of thousands of miles and used the same drain bolt every time! (I did strip one once!) I prefer a wrench to a socket for changeing the oil. If you can find one get a 14mm Snap On wrench because they are specially made to not to strip the nut and even work on stripped ones!

the snap-on wrench type you are referring to is called a "flank drive" and yes, they do work very well.:thumbsup:

o89canucks
09-20-2009, 01:19 PM
the amount of torque required to strip those M14 (or M12) threads would be in the neighborhood of 200lb/ft. i highly doubt that a person could exert that kind of force lying down under their car with a box end wrench.

torque wrench is overkill, just get the plug "tight"

200ft/lbs?!?! I've stripped Dodge cummings drain plugs out at 50ft/lbs.

YAR1S
09-20-2009, 01:34 PM
If you can get a hold of one of these it will make oil changes SOOOOOO much easier.... and NO drips! :D

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51dj37gA5dL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/FRA-SD.jpg

R2D2
09-21-2009, 10:09 AM
YAR1S,

I had heard good things obout the Sure Drain and ended up getting one off Amazon for under 8 bucks! I had seen them in parts stores for over 20 before. I like the low profile aspect of it! I had to cross it but I ended up figuring out the Yaris takes the model SD-3 (I hope).

Have you had one long and how did you find the quality?

TIA

R2