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birdman
09-30-2009, 01:08 AM
When driving the Yaris on dark nights the blue high beam indicator light is so bright that it becomes annoying. I thought I read some where that a resister can be added to reduce the intensity of the light. Has anyone had any success with a fix for this one?

Thanks, Birdman:help:

puetato89
09-30-2009, 01:22 AM
i always half-ass the high beams so it doesnt come on, pretty much inbetween hi and lo it shines more aswell

puetato89
09-30-2009, 01:26 AM
i know, but it blinds when it is really dark out and it gets destracting

puetato89
09-30-2009, 01:33 AM
lol, ok maybe not blinds but still annoying,

Astroman
09-30-2009, 01:35 AM
I also find it VERY annoying. I'm about ready to put electrical tape over it :laugh:

puetato89
09-30-2009, 01:37 AM
or just do what i do:wink:

birdman
09-30-2009, 02:31 AM
You're right,"blinding" is an exaggeration. When I do long late night commutes and my eyes are tiring the brightness of the blue light is annoying, For now I wad up a paper towel to cover it.

BluYrs
09-30-2009, 03:25 AM
Some well-placed scotch tape to diffuse the light a bit?

birdman
09-30-2009, 03:27 AM
The tape is an option but I'm hoping for an electrical fix. Thanks for the idea.

MGargano
09-30-2009, 05:11 AM
Upgrade your headlights to bi-xenon HIDs from Xenon-Vision. For some reason, the way the kits gets wired, it stops the hi-beam indicator from lighting up on the cluster even though the hi-beams work perfectly.

SilverBack
09-30-2009, 05:21 AM
Just don't drive with hi-beams on in the first place. If that little blue light annoys you, just imagine how the driver in front of you feels

TheRealEnth
09-30-2009, 07:24 AM
If that little blue light annoys you, just imagine how the driver in front of you feels
LAWL, just get strong foglights

CTScott
09-30-2009, 11:06 AM
In the picture below, you can see the BEAM LED (D559). You could change its current limit resistor (looks like R640 {which is currently a 202 ohm resistor}, following the trace) to a higher value. Or, a much easier approach is mechanically reduce its output. My standard method for toning down overly bright LEDs on things is to simply dab the LED's lens with a black Sharpie marker. You can also use a think piece of gray or semi opaque plastic.

28695

scape
09-30-2009, 11:11 AM
i really dislike blue LED indicator lights that show up on everything these days, it truly is annoying, and the blue itself is way too bright; as for the dashboard, i think it makes sense to have one as you don't want to be driving around with your brights on all night-- that's not fair to others, so you should be reminded that it is on; even if it's a tad annoying. so to sum up, I bring nothing productive to the OP, hah :D
you could always crack open the dash and just replace the LED, or add a piece of painters tape onto the front for long drives

marcus
09-30-2009, 11:45 AM
When driving the Yaris on dark nights the blue high beam indicator light is so bright that it becomes annoying. I thought I read some where that a resister can be added to reduce the intensity of the light. Has anyone had any success with a fix for this one?

Thanks, Birdman:help:

get a black electric tape and tape over it you wont even notice the tape..

bronsin
09-30-2009, 02:45 PM
Yeah if you can get at the circuit board masking the LED itself is the way to go.

supmet
09-30-2009, 03:06 PM
There have been studies that show blue light creates more eye strain than any other color, but as others have pointed out, its a function, not a side effect.

Astroman
09-30-2009, 04:22 PM
My '71 ford had a red light for the high beam. Much nicer. :smile:

birdman
09-30-2009, 05:03 PM
Thanks for all your insights. I seem to remember an article that placed the resister in the wiring coming off of the head light assemblies under the hood (bonnet). Not having to tear apart the dash would be a real plus. But if tearing the dash apart to do it is what I have to do then so be it. I'm after an inconspicuous fix.

CTScott
09-30-2009, 05:51 PM
Thanks for all your insights. I seem to remember an article that placed the resister in the wiring coming off of the head light assemblies under the hood (bonnet). Not having to tear apart the dash would be a real plus. But if tearing the dash apart to do it is what I have to do then so be it. I'm after an inconspicuous fix.


A resistor can be added in series with the circuit to avoid having to disassemble the cluster. You could potentially cut into where the signal routes through Connector BA1 under the hood, but it would be easier to add the resistor at the connector entering the cluster. You would cut the gray wire in position 14 and add a resistor between the cut wire. I would start at about 1K Ohms and go up from there to find a desirable brightness.

28707

birdman
09-30-2009, 07:16 PM
Thanks for the info but I'll need a bit more clarification to understand the lingo. What is a cluster? Where under the hood is position I4 and what does that diagram mean? I don't see anything with a BA1 on the diagram. I don't even know where this electrical block is located. Has anyone done a step by step pictorial on this yet?

birdman
09-30-2009, 07:35 PM
I posted this already in another section. Being new I'm still trying to find my way around. After long night drives I find the high beam indicator light a bit too bright and I want to reduce it a bit. I drive in remote areas where there is lots of game that I want to avoid hitting so I need the brights on. Has anyone submitted a step by step pictorial on how to add a resister? One member said there was a way to do it under the hood (bonnet) instead of disassembling the dash. The suggestion I got was very thoughtful but way over my head. I'm not afraid to do it myself but I'll have to be led through this one in layman terminology. Thanks.:eyebulge

CTScott
09-30-2009, 08:08 PM
Thanks for the info but I'll need a bit more clarification to understand the lingo. What is a cluster? Where under the hood is position I4 and what does that diagram mean? I don't see anything with a BA1 on the diagram. I don't even know where this electrical block is located. Has anyone done a step by step pictorial on this yet?

BA1 is a terminal block within the fuse box under the hood. The place where the resistor would need to be added is on a connector that is under the fuse box, so it would be easier to pop off the trim around the cluster (also known as the combination meter, speedometer, etc.) and make the connection where the wire enters one of the two connectors (connector D2 pictured above) going into it.

Here's a picture of connector D2. Wire 14 is the gray wire third from the left on the bottom row:
28708

Here is the annoying indicator before modification:
28709

And, here it is after adding a 2K resistor inline with the gray wire:
28710

Both pictures were snapped with the same camera settings. You can see how the before picture has a glowing halo around the indicator and the second is illuminated, but no where near as much as the before pic.

AlexNet0
09-30-2009, 08:09 PM
instead of starting a new thread, you should PM tk-421 and ask him to move the other thread here.

the suggestions you got from CTScott are the best I believe you are going to get.

If you would like me to elaborate on the cluster method (the cluster is the circuit board where the speedometer and indicator lights are) then I will post again later.

severous01
09-30-2009, 08:13 PM
turn your brightness knob down. it'll dim all lights on dash

CTScott
09-30-2009, 08:23 PM
turn your brightness knob down. it'll dim all lights on dash

The indicators don't dim, just the speedometer and fuel gauge dim.

birdman
09-30-2009, 09:02 PM
I'm new at computers and don't have a clue what a PM tk-421 is. CTScott is very smart. I just read his tire pressure warning light shut off switch install. Actually this post is the new improved version of the other. I will send him a message. Thank you. Yarisworld rocks!

CTScott
09-30-2009, 09:05 PM
I'm new at computers and don't have a clue what a PM tk-421 is. CTScott is very smart. I just read his tire pressure warning light shut off switch install. Actually this post is the new improved version of the other. I will send him a message. Thank you. Yarisworld rocks!

Look at the last post of the other one. I did a quick test with pics for you.

birdman
09-30-2009, 09:10 PM
Thanks Alex. I want to avoid the circuit board approach if possible. Way beyond my comfort zone. I may end up applying a black dot on the plastic shield if it comes to it.

birdman
09-30-2009, 09:11 PM
CTScott you rock!

birdman
09-30-2009, 09:16 PM
Marcus, At the end of the day I might just do it. Thanks man.

birdman
09-30-2009, 09:29 PM
CTScott you are too much man. You must possess an extra chromosome or something. When you spliced the gray wire was the gauge assembly still in the car? If not How do you remove it? Do you have a photo of the 2k resister in place? Does it need soldering? Does it matter which end of the resister is closest to the D2 connecter?

CTScott
09-30-2009, 09:54 PM
CTScott you are too much man. You must possess an extra chromosome or something. When you spliced the gray wire was the gauge assembly still in the car? If not How do you remove it? Do you have a photo of the 2k resister in place? Does it need soldering? Does it matter which end of the resister is closest to the D2 connecter?

I tested it out on Crashy (my ebay purchased totaled Yaris), who has no headlights, so i actually jumped power to the indicator to make it light and then added the resistor inline with the jumper. I also have her dash completely removed, so I have easy access to all wiring.

But, to do this on an intact car, you pop the cluster trim, disconnect the connector, and then cut the resistor into the wiring harness. You'll cut the wire (about 2" from the connector to give yourself room to work), strip both ends, attach one end of the resistor to each (resistors aren't polarized, so it doesn't matter which end goes to which), and then either heat shrink it or tape it up.

bronsin
09-30-2009, 10:18 PM
Hmmm very interesting and Ive learned something here. Still wouldnt it make a lot more sense to put a piece of colored tape over the high beam indicator rather than take everything apart and all?

birdman
09-30-2009, 10:43 PM
Thanks CT. I have one more question regarding this fix. Can you get crimp-on resisters or must they be soldered?

birdman
09-30-2009, 11:02 PM
There is yet another question. What gauge wire will the resister be spliced into?

CTScott
09-30-2009, 11:07 PM
You can't get crimp on resistors, but you can crimp them onto the wire (I believe it is 22 AWG) with butt splices.

birdman
09-30-2009, 11:21 PM
Would a 1 or 1.5k resister do?

birdman
09-30-2009, 11:25 PM
You have been very patient guiding me along to the point where I am confident enough to do this fix. Thank you thank you!

CTScott
09-30-2009, 11:36 PM
Would a 1 or 1.5k resister do?

Try the 1.5K, if that's what you have on hand. I tried 1k initially and then moved up to 2k. Even with a 10K resistor it will still illuminate.

birdman
09-30-2009, 11:36 PM
I just noticed that the diagram of the connector has "11" 3rd from the left while the photo shows the gray wire in what appears to be the 11 position not the 14th. Why is that?

birdman
09-30-2009, 11:38 PM
Is the higher number resister dimming the light more?

birdman
09-30-2009, 11:43 PM
I cant imagine where CT gets the energy to keep up with all the questions coming up. CT deserves a medal.

CTScott
09-30-2009, 11:43 PM
The 11 vs 14 thing is because the connector drawings are from the perspective of looking into the end of the connector. In the picture we are looking into the back, so the pin numbers are mirrored.

A higher value resistor does dim it more.

birdman
09-30-2009, 11:59 PM
If I wanted to dim it down to a point where it's still easy enough to see during the day if the high beams are mistakenly left on what is highest number resister you'd use?

CTScott
10-01-2009, 12:28 AM
I'd say 10K max.

birdman
10-01-2009, 12:46 AM
So thats what you'd personally use?

birdman
10-01-2009, 12:47 AM
I have a feeling we're reaching conclusion any time now.

jambo101
10-01-2009, 05:57 AM
Why not just cut out a little square of duct tape or electricians tape and stick it over the blue light.

CTScott
10-01-2009, 08:57 AM
So thats what you'd personally use?

I am going to do this on my 09, when I have a chance, and will probably use somewhere between a 2K and 5K resistor.

birdman
10-01-2009, 11:01 AM
CT you're a champion!

birdman
10-01-2009, 11:07 AM
A cut out dot would obscure the light in a way that may make it hard to see when the brights are mistakenly on during the day.

Tamago
10-01-2009, 11:26 AM
lol. CTSCOTT as always gives the perfect solution. and the OP wants an "easier" way out






i'm LOLing here

birdman
10-01-2009, 12:01 PM
Easy and clear.

jambo101
10-01-2009, 05:23 PM
A cut out dot would obscure the light in a way that may make it hard to see when the brights are mistakenly on during the day. Oncoming drivers will be glad to let you know you have your brights on.

birdman
10-01-2009, 05:53 PM
And how!

birdman
10-01-2009, 06:10 PM
Since this query is duplicated further down the DIY list, is it possible to remove this one and leave the other?

birdman
10-02-2009, 04:08 AM
Apparently not.

Astroman
10-02-2009, 02:28 PM
I for one can tell when I'm using the high beams. That little light doesn't do anything for me but distract my vision. Besides, were not really talking about blocking the light out, and driving around with high beams on all the time. If someone comes at me with their high beams on, I just flash them. 9/10 this takes care of it.

birdman
10-02-2009, 08:53 PM
People are so stressed out these days the less they're provoked the better.

birdman
10-17-2009, 01:31 AM
Thanks to Scott I have successfully added the resister and have a lighter blue high beam indicator light. Still easy to see and much gentler on my tired old eyes. A very easy to do fix.

andru47
10-18-2009, 10:40 PM
Solution, tint the gauge cluster...

BIGTAZ351
05-05-2011, 01:38 PM
Old thread, I know, but I need to know how to get the first piece of dash trim off, (2010 3dr) without breaking something! I tried searching but didn't find anything of any use. Even the better half said last night, "You gotta do something about that BLUE LIGHT!" I have black tape on the lens since I had 130 miles on the car, but it is so bright it lights up the trim piece that needs to come off, that I see it in the windshield.

You guys are great, Thanks in advance!

P.S. I loved the red indicator in the '71 Custom 500, even the green arrows were not "blinders". Up until 7 years ago I drove a '71 as a daily car, I like the mpgs of the yaris.

CTScott
05-05-2011, 02:03 PM
Old thread, I know, but I need to know how to get the first piece of dash trim off, (2010 3dr) without breaking something! I tried searching but didn't find anything of any use. Even the better half said last night, "You gotta do something about that BLUE LIGHT!" I have black tape on the lens since I had 130 miles on the car, but it is so bright it lights up the trim piece that needs to come off, that I see it in the windshield.

You guys are great, Thanks in advance!

P.S. I loved the red indicator in the '71 Custom 500, even the green arrows were not "blinders". Up until 7 years ago I drove a '71 as a daily car, I like the mpgs of the yaris.

You have to remove the two vertical pieces along sides of the AC controls first. Grab the bottom corner by the storage pockets and pull out to get them started. Then, pull straight out at the top. Next, remove the speedometer trim by pulling it straight back. It is easiest to loosen the center of the top of it first and then work down to the flat area. Be careful of the flat tabs on the radio trim side of the flat area. If you have trouble pulling them out of the radio trim, then you can remove the radio trim with the speedo trim by pulling it straight out as well.

BIGTAZ351
05-05-2011, 02:32 PM
For some odd reason I knew it'd be you, Scott to reply first, I consider you an expert in the D.I.Y. Yaris World, Thank you....

I absolutely Love "Crashy" BTW.

VitzNCP91
09-17-2012, 10:44 PM
Sorry to reopen, but is there a section where it can tell how to remove the speedomter's needle:iono:. Any info will be greatly appreciated.:thumbup:

CTScott
09-17-2012, 11:14 PM
Sorry to reopen, but is there a section where it can tell how to remove the speedomter's needle:iono:. Any info will be greatly appreciated.:thumbup:

The needle is just pressed onto the servo that drives it, so you carefully pull it off. I suggest making a small mark across the clear to grey area at the base of the needle, so you can align it correctly when you put it back on. When you do press it back on, hold the back of the servo assembly to avoid damaging the tiny plastic gears inside, while pressing the needle assembly back on.

chaditotx
09-27-2012, 01:55 PM
i really dislike blue LED indicator lights that show up on everything these days, it truly is annoying, and the blue itself is way too bright; as for the dashboard, i think it makes sense to have one as you don't want to be driving around with your brights on all night-- that's not fair to others, so you should be reminded that it is on; even if it's a tad annoying. so to sum up, I bring nothing productive to the OP, hah :D
you could always crack open the dash and just replace the LED, or add a piece of painters tape onto the front for long drives

I concur.. .don't like the blue. My 71 Ford truck had a red high beam indicator. Every time I'd tap the floor switch for brights I'd think I had low oil pressure though.... bummer.