best synthetic oil and m/t oil??

[doodoo]

I switched to mobil1 5w30 after my 2nd oil change since I had very good results with it with an older car. Runs good. Almost tried amsoil, but heard that it thickens too much as it gets older. Curious about what kind of synthetic m/t oil I should use. I'm not sure if I trust "off brands" like Amsoil and Red Line. Is mobil1 good m/t oil since they make the best motor oil? Whate are your recommendations? (BTW - I hate large predatory corporations like Exxon Mobil, but there is no denying that the best is the best with Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil)

[nsmitchell]

Mobil-1 is not bad at all, but neither is Amsoil. Amsoil epitomizes the "little guy" in the Synthetic Oil market. They do not advertise much and are only distributed by dealers. They are the closest thing to a "mom and pop" outfit you will find in sythetic oil. They definately claim to have the "best in synthetics" and I have not heard or read any different. I don't know where you got the "thickening" stuff from. It will suspend more contaminants in the oil, usually after switching from dino to Amsoil, but a good engine flush beforehand will clean that out first, and you oil should look nice and golden amber for quite a while with a good oil filter. Amsoil was the original "synthetic oil" as well. 18 Wheeler Truckers swear by it, because with a bypass oil filter, you can go 100,000 miles+ on an oil change, because the actual oil doesn't break down at all. All this said, I just switched to Mobil-1 5W-30 on Saturday with a Napa Gold filter because I was too lazy to hunt down Amsoil.:biggrin:

[static808]

i am so lucky to have an amsoil dealer 10 minutes away. i hate online ordering, with the shipping fees, wait time AND the possibility of ID theft (you never know!). if this dealer wasn't near me, i'm right there with you guys and running to costco to buy cases of mobil 1. previously used mobil 1 with my '97civic and didnt have any problems. then i got lazy (started working actually!!?!) and just "EZ-Lubed" my baby. that was the biggest mistake ever. lower mpg. engine not as smooth. we recently just put her back on synthetics (amsoil), and just changed to amsoil after 1K miles on our new van. cant wait to see how the oil looks after the next oil change!

--B

ps: the prices are very comparable too, so just get whatever is convenient for you. anything's better than dino...

[firefly1_0]

its not always good to switch to synthetic oil so soon, things like valve guides and seals need to be bathed in it for at least 20,000 Km to absorb oil to offer superior lubrication and seal funtionality

just don't switch back now that you are running it.

[07WYarisRS]

Amsoil, or redline are the best of the best.

Both are pure 100% group IV or V, poa or Ester based lubricants.
By FAR more stable over the oils lifetime then any other conventional or group III oil.

[tekmoe]

sounds like amsoil is good stuff. i know redline is good because my dad and i have been running it in our motorcycles for years.

[zyovka]

Well, I am very tempted to switch to Amsoil or Mobil 1, too, on my older (1994, 170k) 4runner, but, Guys, can anybody explain, pls, what the difference is between 5W-30 and 10W-30... it's getting very confusing, when you go to those websites "find the oil that best fits your car", you answer the questions what type of vehicle you own, the year and so on, and, finally, you get the answer like 5W-30 or 10W-30... I guess the question is how do you know for sure what do you need: 5W or 10W....

We used Penzoil for years and it seems like the car runs good, but I wish I could do something good for my old and lovable Toyota 4runner.... any input would be very appriciated :wub:

Final thought: when a car has 170k miles on it, is it really worth changing to synthetic oil?

[07WYarisRS]

Well first off Amsoil and Mobil1 are two completely different types of oils/lubricants.

Mobil 1 is just highly refined crude oil/mineral oil and a basic group III type oil.
Amsoil and Redline are both completely man made lubricants and contain no pertrolium/mineral oil Group IV-V oils

As for the difference between the 5w-30 and 10w-30
The 5w mean it has a lower cold pour point. The lower the W weight the better the oil will flow when cold.
Both a 5w-30 and 10w-30 are still a 30 weight oil or SAE 30 when hot but the lower W weight means it will flow better at colder temps.
For example
Mobil1 10w-30 has a pour point of -45 oC
Mobil1 5w-30 has a pourpoint of -54 oC

Amsoil 10w-30 5w-30 and 0w-30 have a pour point of - 50 ~ -54 oC

As for what one to use in your car... check the owners manual it will say in there.
All Yaris engine are designed to use a 5W-30 engine oil however if you live in a hot climate you can still safely run a 10w-30.

With new engines today the tolerances are much tighter then you fathers V8 from the 70's and a lighter oil is needed and the lower the pour point the better. It allows oil to flow easily through the engine to reach vital engine components quicker to help reduce start up damage.

FWIW I use Amsoil 2000 0w-30 oil in my Yaris and have used it in my truck as well as my laser with awesome results.
I build and rebuild regular and race engines for a living and have used every kind of oil out there. Amsoil and Redline lubricants are the best of the best.
Royal purple is a good runner up but they do suffer from some quality control issues.
As far as group III oils go Mobil 1 is one of the best along with Motul and many others. oils like Qstate synthetic, Castrol Syntec, Lucas are the amoung the lowest quality group III oils. But even these oils are far better then any conventional oil or synthetic blend (group I and II oils)

You can switch to synthetics anytime
What it will do is provide more HP from less friction and cooler engine temps and better mileage.
On the down side if you switch you should do an engine flush. Synthetic will clean your engine as you drive so if you have sludge build up it is possible in high mileage cars for oil leaks to develop as the sludge deposits that were blocking oil leaks are cleaned away.
If at any time you want to switch back you can with no problems.

[zyovka]

Thanks for a wonderful input. Now it makes things more clear.... I made some calculations here and.... well, the oil change with Amsoil synthetic oil somehow hits your pocket.... For my Toyota 4runner, that is, V6 3.0 engine, I may need 1.5 gallons of oil, right? The price for 1 gallon (according to the Amsoil web-site) is $27.15, so it winds up to $41.00, then +$17.00 Amsoil oil filter and the service price (approximately $30.00) for the oil change and then oil shipping if you order it on-line.... it comes to over $100.00 for the whole procedure.... right? Well, I have to think about it, I guess....:rolleyes:

[static808]

Thanks for a wonderful input. Now it makes things more clear.... I made some calculations here and.... well, the oil change with Amsoil synthetic oil somehow hits your pocket.... For my Toyota 4runner, that is, V6 3.0 engine, I may need 1.5 gallons of oil, right? The price for 1 gallon (according to the Amsoil web-site) is $27.15, so it winds up to $41.00, then +$17.00 Amsoil oil filter and the service price (approximately $30.00) for the oil change and then oil shipping if you order it on-line.... it comes to over $100.00 for the whole procedure.... right? Well, I have to think about it, I guess....:rolleyes:

find a local amsoil dealer, change it yourself, and do it once a year!! if you cant do it yourself, then a decent mom and pops shop shouldnt charge more than 20 bucks for the service if you supply all of the goods. it actually comes out cheaper than regular mobil 1 synthetic oil (needs more frequent changes), and is very comparable in price to mobil 1 extended service oil. it really does suck if you dont have a local dealer to work with.

--B

ps: i did a amsoil flush with my initial change, just becuase i didnt want any dino residue "dirtying" up my fresh synthetic oil...ahhhhh

[07WYarisRS]

Thanks for a wonderful input. Now it makes things more clear.... I made some calculations here and.... well, the oil change with Amsoil synthetic oil somehow hits your pocket.... For my Toyota 4runner, that is, V6 3.0 engine, I may need 1.5 gallons of oil, right? The price for 1 gallon (according to the Amsoil web-site) is $27.15, so it winds up to $41.00, then +$17.00 Amsoil oil filter and the service price (approximately $30.00) for the oil change and then oil shipping if you order it on-line.... it comes to over $100.00 for the whole procedure.... right? Well, I have to think about it, I guess....:rolleyes:


Yeah but that's good for 35,000 miles or once a year

How many regular oil changes will you have to do running mobil 1 over 35,000 miles or once a year?

Amsoil is usually A LOT cheaper in the long run.

I change my oil every 6 months and it still saves me a lot of $$$
An amsoil dealer can get you better discounts by signing you up as a prefered customer.
If you want PM or email me and I'll give you the contact infor for my Amsoil distributer

[zyovka]

thanks, but.... the oil change still includes other services such as lubrication, changing the air filter, rotating the tires etc.... which has to be done every 3.000 or so miles regardless of the oil change and those services are approx. $30.00 without oil change, correct me if I'm wrong..... pls

[firefly1_0]

switching to synthetic oil on a new car is the g-hey.

wait four years, have a 100,000 Kms on it then make the switch unless you want to install new valve guides and seals.

you will be buring oil in no time if you switch.

[07WYarisRS]

switching to synthetic oil on a new car is the g-hey.

wait four years, have a 100,000 Kms on it then make the switch unless you want to install new valve guides and seals.

you will be buring oil in no time if you switch.


Who ever told you that is a complete jackass
I've never had one of my race engines smoke unless there was a major engine problem.
I've never had any oil related problems since switching to synthetic back in the early 90's.
I've been building and rebuilding engine since I worked at Yamaha over 15 years ago. Everything from bikes to cars to outboards and ATV 2 strokes and 4 strokes.
True an engine should be run in using a regular oil and run in hard to properly seat rings, but valve guides and valve seals do not need to be broken in. They are machined and cast to exact clearance specs and preserving these specs the best you can will prevent any wear or oil leaking.

[07WYarisRS]

thanks, but.... the oil change still includes other services such as lubrication, changing the air filter, rotating the tires etc.... which has to be done every 3.000 or so miles regardless of the oil change and those services are approx. $30.00 without oil change, correct me if I'm wrong..... pls

I highly doubt the dealership will rotate your tires every 3000 miles and no air filter needs to be changed that often. Tires should be rotated every 6 months. The cabin air filter should be changed a little more often but even that is an extra cost at the dealership and not part of any required warranty issue.

I don't think this car has grease zerks on the suspension/steering components so basically they just change the oil and check the other fluid levels.

If you have a torque wrench you can rotate the tires in 30 minutes yourself at home. All you need is a jack stand and 1/2 torque wrench (less then $15 at harbour freight) Jack up the rear and put a jack stand under it just up the front on the same side. Put the rear tire on the front and front on the rear. Do not put right tires on the left side or left on the right. Once a tire has been used it's best to keep the tires rotation the same, changing sides will change the tires rotation and that causes them to bulge out and belts to break etc. Use a torque wrench to evenly torque the lug nuts to the proper specs. Quick and simple.

NO dealership can void any warranty if you decide to do your own maintenance. Not even on a lease, Just be sure to keep records of What work was done, and when and akeep receipts for any products you buy like oil, air filters, spark plugs, etc etc.

Check with your local dealership. I know my local dealership uses Mobil 1 on request. It's not the best oil out there but it is better then using a conventional oil. At least this way you get the dealer care and synthetic oil.

[firefly1_0]

Who ever told you that is a complete jackass
I've never had one of my race engines smoke unless there was a major engine problem.
I've never had any oil related problems since switching to synthetic back in the early 90's.
I've been building and rebuilding engine since I worked at Yamaha over 15 years ago. Everything from bikes to cars to outboards and ATV 2 strokes and 4 strokes.
True an engine should be run in using a regular oil and run in hard to properly seat rings, but valve guides and valve seals do not need to be broken in. They are machined and cast to exact clearance specs and preserving these specs the best you can will prevent any wear or oil leaking.



if its designed to run with synthetic oil from the start then it works... AMG does it.

proper engine break in is at least 20,000 KM, no if's, and's or butt's.
the benifits that synthetic can provide are better cold winter starts, and better protection with an older engine.

we already get 5,000 miles between changes using regular oil in these cars, is that not enough?

if you are really that keen on running synthetic, i would check your warranty,and talk to a toyota mechanic, i can't be bothered to look, i talked the dealer into 5 years of free oil changes when i bought mine...

[nsmitchell]

:laughabove: :laughabove: :laughabove: :laughabove:
Firefly, you are joking... right... I mean if not, you don't know the first thing about what a "synthetic" oil is. :eek: A synthetic oil is basically an oil with molecules of a specific size and shape. They also have a low burn off rate, so the oil stays oil and doesn't turn to sludge from heat.
I hope you are just pulling our leg here, but if not, please do some research on the subject. Toyota mechanics are not the people to talk to about oil, they want you to use Toyota OEM oil and filters only. duh...
My friend heard the EXACT same song and dance from the Acura dealership. He fell for it hook-line-and sinker, like someone else I know on this Yaris board.:biggrin:
"Designed to run with synthetic" That's a good one.:thumbsup: It should be "requires oil that wont thicken up like dino in 1000 miles."

[firefly1_0]

ok then, if thats what you guys think then fine, the fact that syn oil offers double the heat capcity is a given, it says so right on the lable...

think of what kind of car you are driving, its not a high performance car, force fed, running nitrous oxide or fueled by LPG or LNG, the things that generate higher heat in the combustion chamber and high exhaust and head temps.

unless you're running with half the recomended amount of coolant you will never see this type of engine condition happen.

hell, its your money... do what ever you want.

[07WYarisRS]

if its designed to run with synthetic oil from the start then it works... AMG does it.

proper engine break in is at least 20,000 KM, no if's, and's or butt's.
the benifits that synthetic can provide are better cold winter starts, and better protection with an older engine.

we already get 5,000 miles between changes using regular oil in these cars, is that not enough?

if you are really that keen on running synthetic, i would check your warranty,and talk to a toyota mechanic, i can't be bothered to look, i talked the dealer into 5 years of free oil changes when i bought mine...

What is break in?
What does it do?
What is the difference between and engine designed to use synthetic and one that is not?
What synthetics do not meet mfg oil standards?

When you are breaking in an engine you are seating the rings. As the rings seat engine compression levels rise until the rings are fully seated.
improper break in, like driving your car like a pansy will not product high enough combustion pressure to force the rings out to properly seat. Proper break in is very important and 90% of it is done within the first 40 minutes of running the engine. The main things to avoid are steady cruise speeds, idleing, overrevving, or short trips under 5 minutes. After a tank of fuel the rings are pretty much seated as much as they will (depending on how it was run)

Everything else like bearings and valve guides are precision machined to exact specs. Again these are not engines from the 70's
Running in an engine does not in anyway shape or form take 20,000km
For phuck sakes man some people don't put 20,000km on their car in a year...
My sister in laws Cobalt is 2 years old and does not have 20,000km.

The difference between oil is this
Group I = Conventional oil is group I oil (basic refined mineral oil)
Group II = Synthetic blend is a group II oil and is a mixture of synthetic base Group III = highly refined crude oil but is classed as full synthetic and usually contain low to moderate levels of POA's and Esters (Mobil 1, syntec, Motul )
Group IV lubricants are pure synthetics POA based and contain no mineral oil (Amsoil Royal purple)
Group V lubricants are polyolEster based and also contain no mineral oil (Amsoil and Redline)

Any one of these oils can be used in ANY automotive engine, most if not all meet or by far exceed mgf oil requirements.
Some engines like in Cadillac, lincoln, BMW, Corvette, lexus, etc come with synthetic in them NEW off the showroom floor.
Why do Toyota dealers offer Mobil 1 for oil changes?


Please befor you make yourself look real stupid just stop talking about what you don't know anything about !


The fact is engine wear out, and using a better lubricant will greatly extend the life and performance of the engine. instead of an engine running 300,00km and burning oil, large loss of compression and overall loss of performance with TRUE synthetic you can greatly reduce the ring and cylinder wear, friction, heat and because there are no by products to oxidize and turn to sludge performance and oil flow is not lost doe to engine deposits.

With my race engine using EGT/CHT ive seem as much as 30degree drop in egt's just by switching to Amsoil. I went from rebuilding our drag and race engines every few races to once a season or longer.

[07WYarisRS]

ok then, if thats what you guys think then fine, the fact that syn oil offers double the heat capcity is a given, it says so right on the lable...

think of what kind of car you are driving, its not a high performance car, force fed, running nitrous oxide or fueled by LPG or LNG, the things that generate higher heat in the combustion chamber and high exhaust and head temps.

unless you're running with half the recomended amount of coolant you will never see this type of engine condition happen.

hell, its your money... do what ever you want.

FWIW I built a turbo sprint a few years back.
It was an automatic, carbed non turbo and we made it an EFI, turbo 5 speed.

1L 3cyl TI
Blasted and decked block
.020" off the head and new valves (OEM cam for now)
Fully ported and polished head, intake, turbo, mani.
Full SS 2.25” mandrel bent exhaust No muffler and high flow cat
Balanced rods/OEM pistons, polished rods and minor crank touch up.
Oversized radiator
High flow injectors
Fuel regulator
inline 45psi fuel pump
Anti lag controller
K&N filter and cold air intake
boost controler
Stock turbo @ stock 15 and 22psi
Ractive gauges (boost, oil, water temp, A/F meter)
4th injector injector wired up at 15-16psi
Accel high power ignition, coil, wires
NGK plugs (indexed)
I/C ram air
ACT 2600 clutch
Guess what... it runs on Synthetics

[firefly1_0]

FWIW I built a turbo sprint a few years back.
It was an automatic, carbed non turbo and we made it an EFI, turbo 5 speed.

1L 3cyl TI
Blasted and decked block
.020" off the head and new valves (OEM cam for now)
Fully ported and polished head, intake, turbo, mani.
Full SS 2.25” mandrel bent exhaust No muffler and high flow cat
Balanced rods/OEM pistons, polished rods and minor crank touch up.
Oversized radiator
High flow injectors
Fuel regulator
inline 45psi fuel pump
Anti lag controller
K&N filter and cold air intake
boost controler
Stock turbo @ stock 15 and 22psi
Ractive gauges (boost, oil, water temp, A/F meter)
4th injector injector wired up at 15-16psi
Accel high power ignition, coil, wires
NGK plugs (indexed)
I/C ram air
ACT 2600 clutch
Guess what... it runs on Synthetics

and thats what i have as my race car and its pushing about 115 HP, i will add about 30-40 more with fuel management this winter.

one step further with the build though, bored to 75mm with a CR that is about 8.2:1 on 10 psi from a chrysler le barron turbo run through a FMIC.

and guess what it runs on 15w40 regular plain jane oil.

no matter what you run, you have think what you are running from. sludge? ok then run a high detergent oil and change your filter half way between oil changes...

[nsmitchell]

:laughabove: The sludge I'm afraid of comes from Dino oil itself breaking down quickly, from normal engine heat. I have seen the results of Pennzoil and Quacker State. Dirty crusty heads, an overall amber film over the lifters and cam. This comes from dino baking onto surfaces, and turning black and waxy in the corners of your valve covers. No Way Jose', not for me. I have been using synthetics for about 15 years now, and it's funny how I've never had a single engine malfunction from any hardware lubricated with synthetic oil. And when looking in the oil filler hole, it is shiny like new. But I have friends, oh yes, that don't believe in synthetics. Their engines are quite dirty and run like crap. If everyone used synthetics, mechanics would not be quite so rich! hehe You are in Alberta, and you don't use synthetics? What about when dino thickens up in the cold, and the first second of cranking you get metal on metal and OUCH! That hurts!
Think of thickened oil being filtered. The filter gets its pores clogged quicker with waxy crap and hello bypass valve, and dirty oil coating your engine. Real Nice!

You are like an old school mechanic... "I don't wants no FAKE OIL! I wants REAL OIL!":bellyroll:

[07WYarisRS]

That again is where you are wrong firefly.
Sludge is not a problem with an oil that contains no mineral oil. There are no mineral oil by products to break down. you can literally run thousands of miles and have no sludge, carbon or by product depostis in your engine.
That's why companies like Amsoil and Redline recommend and oil flush before switching to their oils after running conventional oil. Because introducting a ester or poa based synthetic will clean away sludge and can clog up the oil filter prematurely and then you basically running on unfiltered oil.
Using an engine flush will remove most of the sludge and deposits first then you have no problems with filters plugging up prematurely.

I'm still amazed after 10+ years of using synthetic at some of the engine I have pulled apart that were running synthetic. Heck I even posted pics on here a while ago comparing conventional and Amsoil on well used engines.

What you are eliminating is friction and heat and lots of it. In a turbo charged car you need the best oil you can get.
Try 400,000km on a stock turbo running 20psi... that's what my sunbirt GT runs. Compression is still within' 5psi of stock, does not use ANY oil between oil changes. With less heat and friction you gain more HP and better mileage.

A dyno will not lie, test your car before and after.
test your car then swap the engine oil with Amsoil 2000 20w-50 racing oil
Amsoil 75w-90 in the trans and re-test it.
You will not only see lower EGT, oil temps but higher HP numbers.

OR do some independent lab testing
send in a sample of your conventional oil after 500miles and a sample of Amsoil after 5000 miles and see what one comes out on top.

Sure it's easy to say I have never had a problem running this or that oil but group IV and V lubricants are FAR better then any conventional oil. Aircraft and tractor trialers often run these because the oils last 500,000km or more with bypass filtering set ups. NO conventional oil will withstand that kind of punishment.

On royal purples web site you can view the before and after videos of cars tested on the dyno from shows like Hot rod TV and horsepower TV etc.

If you think a conventional oil is good, MAN a true synthetic like redline or Amsoil will amaze you.
don't talk to the dealers that will try to push house brand oils or have you come in for service
Better yet walk around the pits of you local race tracks both street and off road bike and ATVs and see what the professional engine builders and racers are using.
They use them because they are the best
When I worked and Raced for both Yamaha and Arctic cat we had several oil sponsers but used Amsoil because it was what allowed us to run year after year with no DNF's and save us thousands of dollars every month because there was no need to rebuild the engines.

As i said before I'm a motorcycle /ATV mechainc, that's what I do. even though I do sell Amsoil I do use it in my shop. for the people that want a cheaper oil I use mobil 1 or shell.
Synthetic have save me and my customer thousands of $$$ over the years in repair costs. A DNF can make or break a championship and I have never had anengine failure since running synthetic. I've almosy eliminated any gearbox wear, extend clutch like 3X and engine wear has also be greatly reduced.

[firefly1_0]

can you please look back at any of my posts in this thread and see if at any time i said, synthetic oil is bad?

never did i say that, all i said was that its not the greatest for a NEW car. sure once you have it broken in, do what you like.

i have used and still use syn oil in other projects. just not on a brand new car that is on its 2nd or 3rd oil change.

that is all i ever really said. but you guys seem to think that i was attacking the use of it all together.

[07WYarisRS]

pretty much if ...
"using it in a new car is ghey !"
you claim it will somehow damage the valve guides and seals
you have to wait 4 years or 100,000km
takes 20,000 to break in an engine.

I agree and will always stand by the fact that an engine/any engine should be run in using a group I to group III oil. NOT a group IV or V lubricant.
But once the engine is run in (compression level has reached it peak) and the sooner you switch to a snythetic the sooner you start to protect the engine and start reducing friction and heat. Anytime after the first oil change is perfect.
It will NEVER take 20,000km for compression to reach it's peak. Infact most most can be run in in less then an hour.

I just waited the until my first oil change to swap in the synthetic.


What kind of oil do you use because the dollar stores sells the ecaxt same oil you buy from canadian tire for $1 liter.
sometimes 2 for a $1

[firefly1_0]

i'm getting free oil changes for the next 4 years from the dealer only because i asked for them when i bought the car and they agreed.

i buy the car, they work on it, it breaks, they fix it and i am happy.

if we agree to disagree on this then it will be over and we can go about our day.

you like sooner i like the longer wait. that is all.

[whoguy]

Hi all,

Wow, this really is a hot topic.

I've switched to fully synthetic Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30 after 2400km's along with a puralator pure one filter. I believe that engine's should be run in with dino oil. The engine should be run in correctly, varying rpm's and loads, moving up to higher rpms and loads as kilometers build. Many have said modern engines run in in approximately the first 500kms( piston rings, seals, cylinder walls... the important stuff). So I thought I'd make sure by letting it run in for 2400kms. The valve train (cams, guides etc) won't run in in this time, but tolerances are so good these days that it's not necessary I believe.

One thing I noticed was that fuel efficiency has increased noticeably using synthetic. So that means friction has been reduced and efficiency increased. If I get glazed bores, smoking, blow by etc... you's will be the first to know about it.

Thanks all:)

[foober]

I've been using mobil 1 on all my vehicle for 12 years. Its all they've known. And as my mechanic has said my engines are like brand new inside.

I switched to amsoil with my yaris after reading that it is a step up from mobil 1. I did run the yaris for the first 3000 miles on whatever toyota put in it to begin with.

[zyovka]

Well, Guys, as far as our Yaris has only 180 miles on the odometer, I'll wait with Amsoil for a while, but already have found the local dealer, here, in Milwaukee, so my other car, 4runner, is definitely getting engine flush and Amsoil with a next oil change... thanks a lot for a very valuable inputs and hot discussion:clap:

[static808]

recently found bonus of changing to amsoil: my engine is running MUCH smoother and efficiently. case in point, i used to travel at 65mph @ 2000rpm. i now travel @ 71mph @ 2000rpm. you either take it as a bump in power (more speed at same rev) or a bump in fuel efficiency (less rev needed for same speed). either way, i am ridiculously happy. i'll update the fuel efficiency after a few fill-ups.

--B

ps: this is for my sienna. i LOVE that V6...

[07WYarisRS]

Besides the power you gain and fuel you save you can save a LOT of $$$ using amsoil.
With Amsoil 2000 0w-30 and Amsoil filter it's good for 35,000 miles or one year
figure that out compared to how many regular oil changes you will do at 500mile intervals plus filters etc
you save $$$ using Amsoil in most cases unless you are running the cheapest conventional oils out there.

lets use my truck (99 chevy Xtreme) as an example.
Before I sold it, I put 100,000km on it in three years

5L of Amsoil X $9.70 plus filter at 16.45 =$65

Mobil 1 at $ 6 and purolator filter at $5 = $35

good regular conventional oil at $3 and filter $5 $ 20

Mobil 1 and conventional oil recommend 5000km oil changes that 20 oil changes over 3 years
Amsoil recommends I year oil changes or every 35,000 miles (what ever comes first)

Amsoil ($65 x 3) = $195

Mobil1 ($ 35 x 20) = $700

Regular conventional oil ($20 X20) = $400

Even if you are like me and change your Amsoil every 6 months that still only $390.
It's still cheaper then using mobil1 or most conventional oils and a group IV or V synthetic will protect your engine and free up more HP MUCH better then any conventional or even group III oil.

Now just think how much money I have saved in my laser with 300,000km on the odometer. 7 oil changes.
And after 300,000km the compression is still perfect, does not use more then a liter of oil between changes, no dreaded DSM lifter tic, and no dreaded auto trans O/D clutch slip. That would have been 60 oil changes using regular oil or Mobil 1. That's $455 with Amsoil vs $2100 with Mobil 1

I don't know about you guys but I would rather save my $$$ then give it to big huge oil companies that rip us off fuel fuel prices as well.

[07WYarisRS]

i'm getting free oil changes for the next 4 years from the dealer only because i asked for them when i bought the car and they agreed.

i buy the car, they work on it, it breaks, they fix it and i am happy.

if we agree to disagree on this then it will be over and we can go about our day.

you like sooner i like the longer wait. that is all.

If you are happy I quess that's all that matters.

Most car dealers in Canada buy oil in bulk below wholesale from Shell or Esso and
it cost the dealers next to nothing. Less then a dollar a liter for 55 gallons (210 liters) and they usually charge $20 a gallon or more for it.
With that kind of money rolling in the door they don't care about free oil changes to some customers, or doing some promotions They will recommned the cheap stuff to customers because that's where they make the big money.
Some do supply more costly synthetics.
My local GM and toyota dealers gives the first couple changes for free and every 5th oil change free after that. Both use Shell oil and Mobil 1 on request.

Be careful with the free oil changes too.
There is serects to making $$$ on them like many crooked quick lube centers out there. They remove the oil filter, clean it well, and re-install it. Some even go as far insert machine screw to open up the anti drain back and flush the filter out a bit with solvents. But most will just wipe them with an armorall soaked rag to give it that shiny gloss new look if they don't have any paint chips or scratches on them.
So it costs them like $3 every time you want an oil change and thay makes HUGE proffits. Even if they do use OEM filters it only 1-2 bucks max for wholesale filters.

I used to buy filters at wholesale from Hiflofiltro, the supplier for Honda , Yamaha and many other OEM motorcycle filters. The Dealers charge as much as $15 per filter. Wholesale I was payin less then $3

[firefly1_0]

yes, i am happy. this has given anyone without any knowledge in regards to oil choices to make an informed desicion. that is the whole idea behind a message board...

needless to say i still think that both of us are right and that our opinions that we DON'T share are both with merrit.

its been heated...

both of us think the other is still suffering the loss of nearly half a brain,

and its been entertaining...

[doodoo]

Well, I am very tempted to switch to Amsoil or Mobil 1, too, on my older (1994, 170k) 4runner, but, Guys, can anybody explain, pls, what the difference is between 5W-30 and 10W-30... it's getting very confusing, when you go to those websites "find the oil that best fits your car", you answer the questions what type of vehicle you own, the year and so on, and, finally, you get the answer like 5W-30 or 10W-30... I guess the question is how do you know for sure what do you need: 5W or 10W....

We used Penzoil for years and it seems like the car runs good, but I wish I could do something good for my old and lovable Toyota 4runner.... any input would be very appriciated :wub:

Final thought: when a car has 170k miles on it, is it really worth changing to synthetic oil?

I'm no mechanic, but I would switch to a synthetic blend first if I were you. That will probably do the job of "engine flush" w/o putting other nasty chemicals in your engine. I have read that engine flushes are a waste of money. Run a blend, then swap. Your car will outlive you.

[barryware]

Well.... As long as we are all here and talking about oil changes.. Anyone got part numbers for non-genuine Toyota Filters?

Fram (these suck)
Amsol
Purolator
AC
What ever else is easily available??

Also.. Do you guys change the oil plug gasket? My Yaris is still new and I usually change the oil at 2000 - 2500 miles when new but for now, I haven't had it apart so I don't know what type of gasket it is. GM uses a rubber o-ring in an aluminum washer. Honda uses an aluminum crush washer. Pretty hard to get off the plug if you over-tightened the plug on the last oil change.

[firefly1_0]

i just did a quick search, here is what i found for oil filters

penzoil filter PZ39

mobil1 filter M1103

K & N filter HP1003

[Yaris Dick]

switching to synthetic oil on a new car is the g-hey.

wait four years, have a 100,000 Kms on it then make the switch unless you want to install new valve guides and seals.

you will be buring oil in no time if you switch.

WRONG!

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx

http://choosetoprosper.com/synthetic-oil-myths.html

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentId=7007980

[nsmitchell]

Firefly is getting smacked around like a redheaded stepchild on this thread...
What is "the g-hey" anyway?
I never thought I would see someone bash Synthetics. Thats like saying "Bricks Suck! Bricks can fall on your head and hurt you, use straw to build your house, nice soft straw." :wink:

[Yaris Dick]

Firefly is getting smacked around like a redheaded stepchild on this thread...
What is "the g-hey" anyway?
I never thought I would see someone bash Synthetics. Thats like saying "Bricks Suck! Bricks can fall on your head and hurt you, use straw to build your house, nice soft straw." :wink: He's probably just a victim of past "wive's tales" about synthetics that were born out of ignorance and fear of new technology that somehow seem to hang on through the ages despite the overwhelming data and engineering proof to the contrary.

[firefly1_0]

i just prefer a longer wait. i never bashed them. that is all.


BTW
"the g-hey" = gay

[Yaris Dick]

i just prefer a longer wait. i never bashed them. that is all.


BTW
"the g-hey" = gay

No problem.

But consider this analogy...

You're born and the doctor says to your parents; "I can give this kid a drug right now that will drastically decelerate the rate at which his body ages and wears out"

Do you think your parents would have said; "Naw, we'll wait till he's 40..."

[firefly1_0]

i'll see your analogy and raise you one still on the fence...


...for now.

[tomjasz]

good regular conventional oil at $3 and filter $5 $ 20

Mobil 1 and conventional oil recommend 5000km oil changes that 20 oil changes over 3 years
Amsoil recommends I year oil changes or every 35,000 miles (what ever comes first)

Amsoil ($65 x 3) = $195

Mobil1 ($ 35 x 20) = $700

Regular conventional oil ($20 X20) = $400

Now just think how much money I have saved in my laser with 300,000km on the odometer. 7 oil changes.
That's $455 with Amsoil vs $2100 with Mobil 1

I don't know about you guys but I would rather save my $$$ then give it to big huge oil companies that rip us off fuel fuel prices as well.

Solid logic and a great post!:bow:

[Yaris Dick]

Besides the power you gain and fuel you save you can save a LOT of $$$ using amsoil.
With Amsoil 2000 0w-30 and Amsoil filter it's good for 35,000 miles or one year
figure that out compared to how many regular oil changes you will do at 500mile intervals plus filters etc
you save $$$ using Amsoil in most cases unless you are running the cheapest conventional oils out there.

lets use my truck (99 chevy Xtreme) as an example.
Before I sold it, I put 100,000km on it in three years

5L of Amsoil X $9.70 plus filter at 16.45 =$65

Mobil 1 at $ 6 and purolator filter at $5 = $35

good regular conventional oil at $3 and filter $5 $ 20

Mobil 1 and conventional oil recommend 5000km oil changes that 20 oil changes over 3 years
Amsoil recommends I year oil changes or every 35,000 miles (what ever comes first)

Amsoil ($65 x 3) = $195

Mobil1 ($ 35 x 20) = $700

Regular conventional oil ($20 X20) = $400

Even if you are like me and change your Amsoil every 6 months that still only $390.
It's still cheaper then using mobil1 or most conventional oils and a group IV or V synthetic will protect your engine and free up more HP MUCH better then any conventional or even group III oil.

Now just think how much money I have saved in my laser with 300,000km on the odometer. 7 oil changes.
And after 300,000km the compression is still perfect, does not use more then a liter of oil between changes, no dreaded DSM lifter tic, and no dreaded auto trans O/D clutch slip. That would have been 60 oil changes using regular oil or Mobil 1. That's $455 with Amsoil vs $2100 with Mobil 1

I don't know about you guys but I would rather save my $$$ then give it to big huge oil companies that rip us off fuel fuel prices as well.

I'd generally agree with this. But if you're running ANY oil a full 35K, You'd better have a few lab tests under your belt to prove that the filters and additive packages are holding up as designed based on your driving conditions and driving style.

[07WYarisRS]

Good point and actually I have.
And not just Amsoil either. Over the past 10 years I've tested redline, Royalpurple, Maxima, Spectro,Yamalube, Hondaline, Motul and Mobil 1.
I've sent samples to US and canada to have lab testing done by independen labs there like Ana, blackstone and also Amsoil and Conklin. These places will test Any kind of oil and send the results back. It was much easier when i worked for a dealership but there are still independent labs out there that test for the general public.
All are good oil but Amsoil and redline products come back with the best results.

But if you read carefully I also said I change my oil every 6 months.
Why? Because I can, it's cheap insurance and it's still cheaper changing it every 6 months then using a cheaper oil and changing it every 5000km and i know I'm getting the best protection there is buy running a true synthetic


Here is one of my posts on the same topic I replied to earlier


QUOTE(doodoo @ Oct 25 2006, 10:59 AM)

I'd never leave oil in my car for 35000 miles no matter how good they say it is. Since when is mobil 1 refined dino juice? I thought it was the only major brand that was fully synthetic.





Well that's why I change my oil every 6 months. (see last paragraph of last post) I average about 30,000 to 35,000km a year. I change it once in the fall before the snow, once in the spring after the snow. That works out to about 15,000km per oil change. And even after 15,000km my oil is still looks great. It does not turn black like mineral based oils do.
I changed my oil in the Yaris back in June and it still looks new, I'll be changing it this weekend or next and it will stay in there until April or so. This works out great because I never need to change my oil in the cold or snow


Mobil 1 has been Hydrocracked mineral oil since back in the the days of the tri-synthetic (msds sheets are available)
but it is a full synthetic (sort of) just like Castrol Syntec.

Like Mobil 1 Syntec is a Group III synthetic. Castrol started this trend that most all synthetic oil manufacturers have switched to. What that means is that it is a highly refined Petroleum (dino-oil) is it's base stock. This happened several years ago and Mobil took them to court claiming Castrol couldn't call it a synthetic. Mobil said a synthetic is something man made in a lab to certain specs that can't be found in nature. Castrol said their process, called hydrocracking, was so good at refining the oil that it no longer resembled what is found in nature therefore it's a synthetic. The ruling was in Castrol's favor. Since then, pretty much ALL synthetics oils have switched over to the process, including Mobil 1, because it is cheaper to use this base stock rather than the traditional PAO base. Amsoil's XL-7500 line is a Group III oil but with much higher poa base stocks as mobil 1. Their regular line and Series 2000 line is still a PAO base group IV, or poloyolester Group V oil. Redline doesn't use this process either, and unless Royal Purple has changed in recent years, only their Racing Oils are a full PAO Group IV synthetic, most of the lines found on the shelf are a blend.

There still are questions on if this Group III synthetic is as good as the Group IVs. Since it's been a few years now, some results are coming back that the Group IIIs are not lasting as long as the Group IVs and some manufacturers that require synthetics in their products are looking into now saying it has to be a Group IV synthetic. This is because the Group IIIs still suffer the breakdown drawbacks that a petrolium does, once the additives get worn down. This has especially been noticed in Gear Lubes using a Group III oil.

BTW oil companies like Amsoil, Redline, Royal purple etc still buy their POA and Ester base stocks from companies like Exxon/Mobil.

FWIW we have a bypass system on several machines including daily driven trucks and our tractor. Lab results show after 100,000 km the oil is still perfect. With no mineral by products to oxidize and break down the oil maintains its viscocity and stability.
Now I no longer need to send in lab results.
I know for a FACT this oil will last well over 100,000km with a bypass system or just changing filters and with that in mind I have no problem leaving the oil in my car or truck for 6 months at a time.
Something that is truely amazing is the bypass systems ability to remove soot and particals so small the oil looks new after 100,000 km. What colors the oil and make it look black are the particles so small they pass through standard filters. Amsoils BP ilter will remove particles less then 1 micron and that removes that black color from the oil. So it always look new.
Thier are many truck lines that Use these products for 100,000-500,000 miles and after millions of miles they are still running like new. Just think how much Money they save in the long run.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey if people don't want to use Amsoil or one of the other top group IV-V oil like redline or royal purple...FINE, no problem.
I don't sell any of these products so there is no loss or gain to me.
But as a mechanic I want the best for my customers because I know a happy customer is a return customer.
I have a better reputation because my engines are strong, and LAST and don't break down
when needed the most. If my customers start getting DNF because of engine failures they are going to find a different engine builder. Ans using these products can give an engine that slight edge on the competition.
The same goes for everyone here...
I think the Yaris is a great little car and MOST buy them because they are cheap, fairly durable and good on fuel. I'm just telling people how they can preserve that, get better durability, performance, mileage and still save $$$.
And I understand that's not for everyone...

[whoguy]

Excellent post 07WYarisRS

:clap: :clap: :clap:

I totally agree.... I would change at 6months interval regardless of how good the oil is. During the operation of the engine, fuel, water vapour, dirt, dust and other contaminants get caught or mix in with the engine oil. Many of these contaminants are not necessarily removed by the oil filter, like petrol, water vapour and broken down oil modelcules.

I wouldn't want engine oil floating with these contaminants for another 6 months in my engine.

Anyways, doesn't really matter if your gonna sell up after 4years or so anyway...

Happy motoring....

[americanvitz]

I used to work at a Toyota dealership and I think the mechanics there have no clue on the different oils. Personally I use Royal Purple in my Yaris and have noticed a great increase in smoothness and gas mileage. I asked one of the mechanics what kind of oil is the best and his reply was Mobil 1. He said that Mobil 1 was the only oil made of fully synthetics and no mineral oil. I used to run Mobil 1 and did not see any kind of dramatic changes like I see with Royal Purple. Another mechanic also said that Amsoil is not worth the money that it all is just a marketing ploy but I am here to tell you that the facts don't lie and personally I think the Toyota Mechanics have not done their homework on oils. They just go with what ever is in the shop that is bought in bulk. So I guess what Im saying is dont ask the Toyota mechanics about oil, ask someone that has a clue about oil or has used the oil and had improvements. FYI as far as synthetics go, when I was in the Air Force I had to analyze the oil in the aircraft and what kind of oil does the military trust? you guest it SYNTHETICS. and they showed almost no wear!!!!:thumbup:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/member.php?u=943 This Man here knows his stuff and has done his homework.

[Befuddled]

A very infomative thread. I have learned more then I ever wanted to know about oil. But seeing as I am about to switch to synthetic it has been quite helpful. I just have 2 quick questions. I have a 2007 Yaris HB with @ 8000 miles on it. I have had it into the dealer for 1 oil change. Looking at going with Amsoil 5W30. Would I realize any benefit if I flushed the system prior to the switch? And some recommedations on oil filters would be helpful (not a question but still counts as one) :iono:

[07WYarisRS]

A very infomative thread. I have learned more then I ever wanted to know about oil. But seeing as I am about to switch to synthetic it has been quite helpful. I just have 2 quick questions. I have a 2007 Yaris HB with @ 8000 miles on it. I have had it into the dealer for 1 oil change. Looking at going with Amsoil 5W30. Would I realize any benefit if I flushed the system prior to the switch? And some recommedations on oil filters would be helpful (not a question but still counts as one) :iono:

With such little mileage I will be honest and say...you probably don't need an engine flush. What little deposits in there is not likely enough to clog up an oil filter, most will likely just settle in the sump pan (oil pan)
It's won't hurt anything to do it, but with only 8000miles I would not be worried about it.

Personally I use WIX (napa/uap) filters on engines that I change the oil every 6 months
Amsoil filters on engines that get oilchanges once a year or on bypass systems.

[07WYarisRS]

I used to work at a Toyota dealership and I think the mechanics there have no clue on the different oils. Personally I use Royal Purple in my Yaris and have noticed a great increase in smoothness and gas mileage. I asked one of the mechanics what kind of oil is the best and his reply was Mobil 1. He said that Mobil 1 was the only oil made of fully synthetics and no mineral oil. I used to run Mobil 1 and did not see any kind of dramatic changes like I see with Royal Purple. Another mechanic also said that Amsoil is not worth the money that it all is just a marketing ploy but I am here to tell you that the facts don't lie and personally I think the Toyota Mechanics have not done their homework on oils. They just go with what ever is in the shop that is bought in bulk. So I guess what Im saying is dont ask the Toyota mechanics about oil, ask someone that has a clue about oil or has used the oil and had improvements. FYI as far as synthetics go, when I was in the Air Force I had to analyze the oil in the aircraft and what kind of oil does the military trust? you guest it SYNTHETICS. and they showed almost no wear!!!!:thumbup:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/member.php?u=943 This Man here knows his stuff and has done his homework.

Thanks
As for the Toyota mechanics
Dealerships will always recommend short oil change intervals.
Dealerships will also recommend they do it. Some will even go as far to say that if you don't have the dealer change the oil it will void the warranty. Let me just say this.
NO dealership can deny your warranty if you decide to do your own maintenance.
The maintenance oil line in the owner’s manual is there for a reason along with a schedule when it should be done. Providing you keep the receipts for parts and a record of when it was done, you will not void any warranty. (Except on aftermarket parts installed)
So why do dealers recommend they change the oil so much?
Why do so many dealers not recommend synthetic?

Let’s face it... It costs a lot to run a shop or a large business like a car dealership. You have utilities, shipping, insurance, employee wages, stock/inventory, shop supplies, office supplies, tools, and advertising etc every month to pay for and still make a profit to be successful.

They do this with high shop rates (usually $75-$100 p/h) and fluid changes...
Dealerships buy regular dino oil in large bulk volumes and depending on where they get it they get it for below wholesale usually less then $1L (maybe not now that oil prices are so high though but it's not over $2) Most Canadian dealers buy oil from Shell or Esso. They also get oil filters direct from the mfg at prices below wholesale. (Usually $1-$2 each)
Now most dealerships charge about $25-$30 per oil change. My local Toyota dealer charges $29.95.
Think about that.
That's like $6 per liter they charge
That's about $5 worth of oil and filters and $20 to $25 profit off every oil change.
They make over $1000 per drum of oil. About 46 oil changes.
The more oil changes they can do the better. Most will go though at least one drum a week that's over $4000
Some big dealerships can go through 55 gallon every two days. YEAH that a lot of $$$
Now synthetic in bulk is a lot more money sometimes 3X the cheap stuff and therefore not as big of profits so they tend to push the cheap stuff and toss out a few myths about synthetics to keep you buyin the cheap stuff.
However Toyota does deal directly with mobil And most do offer Mobil1 so if they do push a synthetic it's going to be mobil1. Dealerships will charge you extra for the synthetic.

I know my small town Toyota dealer does not sell a car everyday, sometimes they will go 2-3 days with no sales but they always have the shop booked up for oil changes, transmission fluid changes, coolant flushes, tire rotations and the very basic maintenance usually all day long everyday. And just like a quick lube center that make great $$$ of simple fluid changes.

I'll be honest with ya. I could do 95% of my reapirs and maintenace but what about the small town dealership?
Even though I could do it I still take my cars in once in a while for simple things like tire rotations, brake inspections, etc.
I do this because it helps the dealership and I know they apperciate my buiness. The big city dealerships can all kiss my ass though LOL
They often charge even more then the little guys just out of greed.

[07WYarisRS]

Oh one more thing

What about the warranty?
The dealership is going to want to see receipts for oil changes should you have an internal engine problem. (very rare but it happens)
If you are like me and drive the wheels off you car, 8000K oil changes seem like a monthly thing.
What I do is every 8000km I go buy 5 L of oil and a filter, keep the receipt, copy it and return the oil and filter to the store.

I run my Amsoil for 6 months and if I ever have a problem I have proof I have changed my oil every 8000km just to keep Toyota happy.

[firefly1_0]

hahahaha

nice plan!

[eTiMaGo]

The workshop here is recommending HKS fully synthetic oil for NA engines, it's a bit pricey ($100 a can), does anyone have experience with it?

They also have Mobil 1, and castrol Syntec / Magnatec (is that a gimmick or does it really work?)

[07WYarisRS]

The workshop here is recommending HKS fully synthetic oil for NA engines, it's a bit pricey ($100 a can), does anyone have experience with it?

They also have Mobil 1, and castrol Syntec / Magnatec (is that a gimmick or does it really work?)

The only HKS oils I've seen are 10w-50 and 10w-40 oils
That's too heavy for a daily driven economy car like the Yaris and $100 for 4 liters absolutly phucking retareded.
Use 0w-30, or 5w-30 synthetic unless you run you car wide open for hours on end.

Don't buy an oil without knowing who makes it. Think about it. HKS does not drill and refine their own oil so they buy it from someone and just slap thier name on it. For all you know it could be Castrol Syntec, Neo or Mobil 1 in there and your going to pay $100 for a cheap as oil. Even if it is A better oil like Amsoil, Redline or Royal Purple it's priced way to high.
Order yourself sone Amsoil or redline 0w-30 or 5w-30. If you live in an area where the winters are cold, or you have frequent cold starts I recommend Amsoil 2000 0w-30. For hotter climates 5w-30 is perfect.

[eTiMaGo]

oh yes winters are very cold here under the tropics :biggrin:

thanks for the heads up though, I'll probably go for mobil 1 first then see about finding better brands, might need a lot of digging around.

[ttufrosty]

What defines what a "cold" climate is? I can understand that people in the northern US/Canada would be considered cold, but I live in Texas. While we have cold (by our standards) winters, is it enough to justify going to a 0W-30, or should I just stick with a 5W-30. We might have a handful of days a winter that fall below freezing.

[07WYarisRS]

Opinons will differ BUT IMO a cold climate is any place that will see cold morning starts where air temps are below 10 oC.
But A cold engine and cold climate are two completely different things. Even in a moderate to warm climate a cold engine is a dry engine and the first minute of running will cause the most damage.
A 0w-30 won't hurt anything run in any cliamte including a tropical cliamte. the 0W just provides easier starting and less engine damage when the engine is cold and even more protection when air temps are a bit colder.
The 0W will allow the engine to run easier when cold, and provide instant and higher oil flow to an engine that's warming up or driven cold, and helps reduce start up engine wear better then 5w or 10w-30 oil.

In texas you are likely perfectly fine with a 5W-30 but the 0W-30 wont hurt, If you are talking about Amsoil the 2000series 0W-30 is a better oil then the 5w-30 which contain less Esters base stocks.
Amsoil 2000 is a group IV-V blend
Most of the others he others are group IV
XL is group III-IV blend

[tekmoe]

dam man, you really know your shit when it comes to oil. i admire your knowledge and thank you for sharing such great information! :thumbsup:

planning on running amsoil in my yaris. should i go ahead and just run the engine to 1000 before switching over? i'm sure i could probably change the oil right now but i am kind of broke so waiting until 1000 would be better on the wallet. plus i am sure it won't hurt the engine much more anyways, right?

[07WYarisRS]

dam man, you really know your shit when it comes to oil. i admire your knowledge and thank you for sharing such great information! :thumbsup:

planning on running amsoil in my yaris. should i go ahead and just run the engine to 1000 before switching over? i'm sure i could probably change the oil right now but i am kind of broke so waiting until 1000 would be better on the wallet. plus i am sure it won't hurt the engine much more anyways, right?

Thanks

You can wait until your first scheduled oil change to switch to what ever oil you decide to run. Usually 3000-5000miles
You can switch before if you want but there is no need to waste $$$
I would recommend start driving the car as you normally would (if you have not been already) and then change it anytime. I changed mine at 5000km (3000 miles)

[zyovka]

OMG, just had oil changed to synthetic this Saturday on my older Toyota 4runner (1994, 171000 miles). I went to the Oil Change station that I regularly visit to do oil change, asked for a engine flush and then they changed oil to Amsoil that I purchased separately. What can I say? Thank you for a wonderful input and explanations here. What a difference in driving performance. You just feel it right away, how smoothly my car run, how differently more silently the engine works, how much better the accelaration works. You just feel it:thumbup: Special thanks you for 07WYarisRS, man, it is so educational and helpful:headbang:

[zyovka]

Oh, our Yaris is so getting synthetic too after first 5000 miles.

[07WYarisRS]

Thanks
Sounds like it put a smile on your face...

An entire engine, tranmission and differential fluid change using group IV-V lubricants can give you up to 10 free HP.
That's a very noticable seat of the pants difference that can be seen and felt.
I think the royal purple website vids show gains up 8hp just by switching over

[nsmitchell]

It's official people. The best oil to use is right here in this technical service bulletin. 5W-20 or 0W-20 straight from Toyota. Since 5W-20 and 0W-20 can't be made with straight dino, Toyota is telling you indirectly to use Synthetic, or a Synthetic blend. WOW! Finally and end of discussion about dino or synthetic. Kinda like ID and Evolution discussion. hehe

TSB EG018-06

[07WYarisRS]

Be careful using 20 weight oil
Read the NOTES

It says to use the oil recommend on the oil cap or in the manual as each engine/car may require different viscosity grades.

Keep in mind a 20W oil is for normal driving conditions only.
Do not use them in a high mileage car or engine older then 2006
Do not use them if you run you car under hard conditions, heavy loads or race.
I personally would not run any 20W oil in my car, I'm not that desperate for a mile or two more per tank or cold engine performance. IMO a 0W-30 is still the better overall protection.
Same great cold performance as a 0w-20 but better Hot protection then a 20 weight oil.

[boris13]

I'm planning on switching to Red Line 5W30 after about 7,000-8,000 miles. Does that sound OK for an upper Midwest USA climate? (Red Line doesn't make a 0W30.)

[socko]

The manual and oil fill cap for my 07' liftback say to use 5 W 30 so that is the viscosity I will use. Toyota takes no position on synthetics or synthetic blends. The ILSAC GF-4 specification is the API SM designation (SL is GF-3; SJ is GF-2).

[nsmitchell]

The TSB, which is an update, applies to the Yaris. I'm sure the oil filler caps were created on the original specifications, now those have CHANGED for NZ series motors, like our 1NZ-FE. If you simply went by the oil filler cap, no TSB would have been needed. The reason Toyota is doing this is to improve their MPG average anyway, but what I find interesting is that these 5W-20 and especially 0W-20 oils only come in synthetics! So Toyota stock brand for these engines will be synthetic or at least a blend. This puts to bed the argument FOR DINO ONLY debates. 0W-30 is still an excellent oil and provides better protection. I believe that a synthetic 0W-20 or 5W-20 will still provide excellent anti-wear benefits though.

[07WYarisRS]

I'm planning on switching to Red Line 5W30 after about 7,000-8,000 miles. Does that sound OK for an upper Midwest USA climate? (Red Line doesn't make a 0W30.)

Perfect

[FCP91]

Motul 8100 0w30 all the way!!!!

[so40]

The TSB, which is an update, applies to the Yaris. I'm sure the oil filler caps were created on the original specifications, now those have CHANGED for NZ series motors, like our 1NZ-FE. If you simply went by the oil filler cap, no TSB would have been needed. The reason Toyota is doing this is to improve their MPG average anyway, but what I find interesting is that these 5W-20 and especially 0W-20 oils only come in synthetics! So Toyota stock brand for these engines will be synthetic or at least a blend. This puts to bed the argument FOR DINO ONLY debates. 0W-30 is still an excellent oil and provides better protection. I believe that a synthetic 0W-20 or 5W-20 will still provide excellent anti-wear benefits though.

This was discussed very much on many forums when these TSB's came out. The conclusion was that if your specific engine is not listed, use what the oil cap says. I bet if you find someone with a new Yaris (recently made) and get them to check their oil cap, it will say 5W-30.

Mike

[regulus]

:laughabove: :laughabove: :laughabove: :laughabove:
Firefly, you are joking... right... I mean if not, you don't know the first thing about what a "synthetic" oil is. :eek: A synthetic oil is basically an oil with molecules of a specific size and shape. They also have a low burn off rate, so the oil stays oil and doesn't turn to sludge from heat.
I hope you are just pulling our leg here, but if not, please do some research on the subject. Toyota mechanics are not the people to talk to about oil, they want you to use Toyota OEM oil and filters only. duh...
My friend heard the EXACT same song and dance from the Acura dealership. He fell for it hook-line-and sinker, like someone else I know on this Yaris board.:biggrin:
"Designed to run with synthetic" That's a good one.:thumbsup: It should be "requires oil that wont thicken up like dino in 1000 miles."

Why would you change to synthetic when you need to bring in the car anyways for the other stuff they do during oil changes. Filters, break liquid, tire pressure...., whatever they do.

And please dont act like you know it all, allow other people to have different opinions

[zyovka]

Well, I have changed the oil to synthetic 2 weeks ago, as it was noticed, already, the car performance is outstanding, but today I noticed, that the arrow on the oil pressure indicator kept standing right on the border between Low and Normal:confused: I clearly know, that right after the oil has been changed it was in the middle position of Normal. I also know that after the engine flush technician put only 1.25 gallons of oil in the engine, but not 1.5 gallons, as my 3.0 engine requeres (may be not? forgive me my arrogance).... So, I am thinking, why the oil pressure reduced after 2 weeks of driving.... I read somewhere here, that engine flush with concequent change to synthetic oil cleans up all the system from clogs and debris.... may be after this procedure it cleaned it so intensely that now I can have a leak somewhere ( the car is older one, 1994) or it might happen because the technician didn't put enough oil in the system.... :iono: Any advice is very appreciated....

[tomjasz]

And please dont act like you know it all, allow other people to have different opinions


Opinions are not facts you seem to have that confused....:barf:

[07WYarisRS]

Well it could be you had higher oil pressure because some passages were partly blocked restricting the oil flow. Using an engine flush and using synthetics will remove the deposits and may be causing the low oil pressure
OR maybe he used a lighter oil.
OR there could have been a build up of crud in the sending unit.
Synthetic don't tend to thicken over time like mineral oils do either so you may see slightly less pressure on the guage

If it's a huge drop I would recommend testing the oil pressure.
If it's a higher mileage engine use a slightly heavier synthetic oil say a 10W-40

[07WYarisRS]

Why would you change to synthetic when you need to bring in the car anyways for the other stuff they do during oil changes. Filters, break liquid, tire pressure...., whatever they do.

And please dont act like you know it all, allow other people to have different opinions

You don't need to bring the car to the dealer to have the tire pressure checked or to replace the cabin air filter, If you can change your own oil you can usually check the rest of the required stuff (except maybe the valve clearance) But hell even that can be checked by anyone but should be left to someone that knows what they are doing to adjust them.

[Black Yaris]

what do ya'll think of 0w40 it is a very common weight oil for European cars

[07WYarisRS]

That would be perfect for an engine with high mileage

I run 0W-40 in my motorcyles

[bigsky2]

This thread has bee a very good read.


07WYarisRS
I am planning to change to synthetic in the spring.

My current mileage is 10,000 km.
From reading the previous posts, it seems like an oil flush is not necessary when changing from conventional to synthetic at lower mileages (ie. 8000 km a lower)

I'm planning on changing to synthetic perhaps around 14-15K km, depending on the weather.

Should I perform an oil flush at that estimated mileage, prior to using synthetic?

[nsmitchell]

This thread has bee a very good read.


07WYarisRS
I am planning to change to synthetic in the spring.

My current mileage is 10,000 km.
From reading the previous posts, it seems like an oil flush is not necessary when changing from conventional to synthetic at lower mileages (ie. 8000 km a lower)

I'm planning on changing to synthetic perhaps around 14-15K km, depending on the weather.

Should I perform an oil flush at that estimated mileage, prior to using synthetic?
Can't hurt. A flush will just make your oil stay (look) cleaner for longer by removing any contaminants in your crankcase.

[eTiMaGo]

Couple of questions... I'm planning to take a road trip around christmas, and I think I should get an oil change as well as a "just-in-case" checkup before I go.

So I'll be going synthetic after reading the wealth of information in this thread.

Question #1: Redline, Amsoil or Royal Purple come is as highly recommended, but over here, as far as I know, are not available. Mobil 1 seems to be all right too, but what about Castrol? We can get GTX, Syntec, Magnatec, and so on, are they any good? Or else there's the usual Shell and other common brands.

Question #2: It's the tropics here, temperatures only vary between about 25 and 40 degrees Celsius, and I see that most oils sold here are 0W30-0W50, does the ambient temperature make a difference or should I stick with a lighter oil like 0W20 as recommended here?

Thanks!

[nsmitchell]

Here is a comparison of oils. http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/10W30API.htm

[07WYarisRS]

Couple of questions... I'm planning to take a road trip around christmas, and I think I should get an oil change as well as a "just-in-case" checkup before I go.

So I'll be going synthetic after reading the wealth of information in this thread.

Question #1: Redline, Amsoil or Royal Purple come is as highly recommended, but over here, as far as I know, are not available. Mobil 1 seems to be all right too, but what about Castrol? We can get GTX, Syntec, Magnatec, and so on, are they any good? Or else there's the usual Shell and other common brands.

Question #2: It's the tropics here, temperatures only vary between about 25 and 40 degrees Celsius, and I see that most oils sold here are 0W30-0W50, does the ambient temperature make a difference or should I stick with a lighter oil like 0W20 as recommended here?

Thanks!

You can order Amsoil online or I can put you in touch with my Amsoil guy and either he can ship it to you or know of someone or another place to order Amsoil from. Redline is also An excellent lubricant. Royal purple is decent but has had quality control issues in the past that I have seen first had with lab test results. Things like high copper levels, water and even grades being off. I would stick with Amsoil or Redline.
The rest like Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, Motul, Qstate, pennzoil synthetics etc are all just highly refined crude/mineral based oil. IMO not worth the prices they charge

A 0w-30 wont hurt in any temp however if you live in a tropical climate a 5w-30 is all you really need. Stick with the 30W oils, 20W oils are super light. While they can help mileage ever so slightly too light of an engine oil on a car under heavy load orextremem temps or high rpm operation can shorten the life of the engine.

[JDMVitz]

Motul 8100 0w30 all the way!!!!

I also use Motul 8100!!!

[d2dailly]

im glad that i work at an autoparts store that sells amsoil . get it at cost :)

[nsmitchell]

im glad that i work at an autoparts store that sells amsoil . get it at cost :)
You are one lucky dude! Do you use Amsoil PI? (Performance Improver)

[d2dailly]

i will use amsoil 5w30 not sure what the preformance improver is but they carry a bunch of ish from amsoil and i get it for less than $5 a quart :)

[elsteverino889]

I think i already posted... but MOBILE 1!!!!!!!! My yaris only deserves the best and when i went to Mobile 1 for my first oil change i told them nothing but the best they have. no other oil can compete with synthetic mobile 1 oil

[FCP91]

I also use Motul 8100!!!

I used Mobil 1 before.... Can NEVER compare with the quality of MOTUL!!!:thumbup:

[d2dailly]

I think i already posted... but MOBILE 1!!!!!!!! My yaris only deserves the best and when i went to Mobile 1 for my first oil change i told them nothing but the best they have. no other oil can compete with synthetic mobile 1 oil

sorry bud bet mobil 1 is only more refined than regualr oil its not truly man made if you want real synthetic go amsoil

[nsmitchell]

That reminds me of a call I once got while working at Circuit City's Answer City. I was answering computer calls when this old man calls up and has a problem. Halfway through the call he said "I know quality and when I bought this computer I told the salesman, I want your best, so he sold me a Hewlett Packard Bell." The PC was a Packard-Bell Legend 2000. The biggest piece of crap ever to have a CPU. I pressed mute and started laughing until my sides hurt!:bellyroll: I guess that makes me an old geek!

Here is the link to Amsoil PI. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/api.aspx

[d2dailly]

I pressed mute and started laughing until my sides hurt!:bellyroll:
Here is the link to Amsoil PI. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/api.aspx

lol:laugh:

[nsmitchell]

Hey d2daily, I was just in Morristown, NJ. I went to a Jets game. Had VIP brunch at the stadium and front row seats. It was incredible! We took my Odyssey on that trip though. Got 25MPG round trip.

[CASTREX]

You can order Amsoil online or I can put you in touch with my Amsoil guy and either he can ship it to you or know of someone or another place to order Amsoil from. Redline is also An excellent lubricant. Royal purple is decent but has had quality control issues in the past that I have seen first had with lab test results. Things like high copper levels, water and even grades being off. I would stick with Amsoil or Redline.
The rest like Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, Motul, Qstate, pennzoil synthetics etc are all just highly refined crude/mineral based oil. IMO not worth the prices they charge

A 0w-30 wont hurt in any temp however if you live in a tropical climate a 5w-30 is all you really need. Stick with the 30W oils, 20W oils are super light. While they can help mileage ever so slightly too light of an engine oil on a car under heavy load orextremem temps or high rpm operation can shorten the life of the engine.


I'm from Costa Rica and we don't have Amsoil or red line oils.
These are the brands represented here:

Penzoil
Castrol
Shell
Mobil
ELF
Qstate


Do you have any experience with any of those brands? Which one would you recomend?

[d2dailly]

Hey d2daily, I was just in Morristown, NJ. I went to a Jets game. Had VIP brunch at the stadium and front row seats. It was incredible! We took my Odyssey on that trip though. Got 25MPG round trip.

hey, never been to a game myself but i would have went if i had VIP tickets ! i live in central nj so if you were on the turnpike, exit 8a is literally 1.5 miles from my house. too bad you didnt have the yaris maybe i would have saw you:laugh:

[d2dailly]

I'm from Costa Rica and we don't have Amsoil or red line oils.
These are the brands represented here:

Penzoil
Castrol
Shell
Mobil
ELF
Qstate


Do you have any experience with any of those brands? Which one would you recomend?

if they have mobil there then just use mobil 1 synthetic or if you wanna go the extra length just go onto amsoils website and order it

[Yaris305]

So is amsoil the best syntheic oil for our car then?

[CASTREX]

As far as i have read in diferent websites, Amsoil is the bes syn Oil out there. Including for our cars.

[jouslee]

I don't know man... I like the purple stuff (Royal Purple) but I guess it's because Royal Purple burns clean therefore works well in rotaries, man I miss my rotary. But looking at Amsoil, and 35,000 mile oil changes, it is quite tempting.

I've also heard of this oil called Schaffer's oil (Not sure if I spelled it correctly) you guys might want to look it up. Basically, there are metal molecules in the oil and it pretty much helps seal the oil by filling the tiny gaps in the part of the block that the cylinders are moving up and down (Sorry for my lack of correct terminolgy, I'm from rotory world) therefore better preventing blowback (When exaust gasses go past the oil rings and into the oil). You must see the diagram to fully comprehend this illustration. I personally am quite suspicious because of the metal molecules in the oil but perhaps one of you may be bold enough use it in your yaris. If so PLEASE testify of the products effectiveness.

Thanks
-Josh

[mikeukrainetz]

I don't know man... I like the purple stuff (Royal Purple) but I guess it's because Royal Purple burns clean therefore works well in rotaries, man I miss my rotary. But looking at Amsoil, and 35,000 mile oil changes, it is quite tempting.

I've also heard of this oil called Schaffer's oil (Not sure if I spelled it correctly) you guys might want to look it up. Basically, there are metal molecules in the oil and it pretty much helps seal the oil by filling the tiny gaps in the part of the block that the cylinders are moving up and down (Sorry for my lack of correct terminolgy, I'm from rotory world) therefore better preventing blowback (When exaust gasses go past the oil rings and into the oil). You must see the diagram to fully comprehend this illustration. I personally am quite suspicious because of the metal molecules in the oil but perhaps one of you may be bold enough use it in your yaris. If so PLEASE testify of the products effectiveness.

Thanks
-Josh


Those types of oils / additives I think are made more for engines high mileage, loose rings and worn cylinders to increase compression etc.

as far as 35000 mile oil changes... that cant be serious is it? Ill never change my oil on that schedule.

Just put mobile 1 synthetic in this afternoon and noticed the engine runs smoother, hopefully thats not just a placebo effect of trying an expensive oil.

[sleey0]

Amsoil is great and all but no api/starburst which means not kosher for warranty.

[sleey0]

Holy old thread, batman! My noobness says sorry..

[nsmitchell]

Hey everyone. I still have my 07 Yaris. I've been using synthetic Mobil-1 and my last few have been with Valvoline Synthetic. My Yaris still runs perfectly. Almost 65K miles. Zero engine problems. Valvoline Synthetic with Napa Gold Oil Filters are a match made in heaven! I've been using 5W-20 or 5W-30. I just did a trip with my wife and 2 kids from Richmond, Va to Morristown, NJ and got 39MPG. We had the air conditioning going the whole time. Not bad at all. :w00t:

[nsmitchell]

Hey d2daily, I was just in Morristown, NJ. I went to a Jets game. Had VIP brunch at the stadium and front row seats. It was incredible! We took my Odyssey on that trip though. Got 25MPG round trip.

That was a long time ago... weird and funny at the same time. My 2 posts are still on the same page. Kinda like a little time capsule! hehe

[nsmitchell]

Hey everyone. I still have my 07 Yaris. I've been using synthetic Mobil-1 and my last few have been with Valvoline Synthetic. My Yaris still runs perfectly. Almost 65K miles. Zero engine problems. Valvoline Synthetic with Napa Gold Oil Filters are a match made in heaven! I've been using 5W-20 or 5W-30. I just did a trip with my wife and 2 kids from Richmond, Va to Morristown, NJ and got 39MPG. We had the air conditioning going the whole time. Not bad at all. :w00t:

I also have Michelin HydroEdge tires! They are very grippy and safe, even in heavy rain!

[sleey0]

Nippon ENEOS is all that goes in my engine, FWIW.

Just my .02 on an old thread:D

[sergo]

Hi
Can anybody suggest which 5w20 oil is better and why, especially if they both made
by Shell

Pennzoil Platinum
http://www.pennzoil.com/#/motor-oil/pennzoil-platinum

or Quaker state advanced Engine?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/EngineOils/PRD~0289027P/Quaker+State+Advanced+Engine+Oil%2C+946+mL.jsp?loc ale=en

Pennzoil is 4.73L and $1 more than 4 quarts Quaker state Advanced engine,

Since Yaris engine takes only 4L(btw, a bit more than 4 quarts) it seems to be a waste to buy a Pennzoil, unless it replaced often and .7L leftovers are accumulated to 4 L?
or Pennzoil Platinum significant better than QS.
QS Advanced Engine is no longer listed on QS website, and Pennzoil writes on a jug that
it cleans engine well, and when I did use it last time, it became dirty pretty quick which
means it did its cleaning job well?

[Hershey]

Both are very good oils as is SHELL Full Synthetic 5w-20 . All are from the same company . No bad choices , just which one is least expensive .

[The Sin]

I recently started a new job as a courier. I drive about 10,000 miles a month. I'm getting my oil changed every two weeks. I want to make the switch to synthetic. I'm thinking of going with Amsoil SAE 0W-30 Signature Series. According to the manufacturer, I can go 25,000 miles on each oil change. Does anyone have any input on this? Anyone else travel high miles like me? If so, what do you use? When I make make the switch, should I do a flush? I have just a little over 50,000 miles on my 2010 Yaris.

[ecc_33]

my castrol edge full synth has been awesome.... i wouldn't change for anything. For that matter what ever you choose to use just stick with it. The hardest thing on a engine is switching wieghts of oil and brands often

[Happy Little Pony]

Amsoil is a perfectly fine choice. If it were me, I'd run out to 7 or 8 thousand miles and then pay for an oil analysis test. That's the only way you can be sure that the oil is holding up well in your particular application.

Another thing to consider is that Amsoil says the oil will hold up for 25,000 miles, but the oil filter they spec for the 1NZFE is only rated for 15,000 miles.

[Hershey]

I recently started a new job as a courier. I drive about 10,000 miles a month. I'm getting my oil changed every two weeks. I want to make the switch to synthetic. I'm thinking of going with Amsoil SAE 0W-30 Signature Series. According to the manufacturer, I can go 25,000 miles on each oil change. Does anyone have any input on this? Anyone else travel high miles like me? If so, what do you use? When I make make the switch, should I do a flush? I have just a little over 50,000 miles on my 2010 Yaris. Someone we know drives about 40,000 miles a year with his 2010 YARIS 3 door bought in October of '09 and gets his oil changes at the local TOYOTA service center . Would think that oil to be MOBIL 5w-30 . Car runs fine as I know . If you want a synthetic , I'd say Pennzoil Platinum or the ULTRA when on sale or at local WAL-MART in a 5 gallon jug at around $26 . As for a conventional , the PENNZOIL yellow bottle is a stellar oil or the TOYOTA oils at your nearby TOYOTA parts department . These in a 5w-30 would be good for 5,000 > 7,500 mile O.C.. To keep your warranty until the 60,00 mile mark you'll need to get it changed every 5,000 miles . If not a concern , then a synthetic would be best value for a 7,500 > 10,000 mile interval . Let us know what you decide .

[Hershey]

The TOYOTA synthetics are a good oil that can be bought for under $6 a quart . A value for a 7,500 > 10,000 mile interval .

[daf62757]

I recently started a new job as a courier. I drive about 10,000 miles a month. I'm getting my oil changed every two weeks. I want to make the switch to synthetic. I'm thinking of going with Amsoil SAE 0W-30 Signature Series. According to the manufacturer, I can go 25,000 miles on each oil change. Does anyone have any input on this? Anyone else travel high miles like me? If so, what do you use? When I make make the switch, should I do a flush? I have just a little over 50,000 miles on my 2010 Yaris.

You might be past the point of no return with respect to regular oil. I tried to switch my step daughters car over to pure synthetic and it resulted in oil leaks. The syn oil is so thin it seeps between the seals. Her car had over 100K miles so maybe yours is not too far gone. You can use the high mileage oil with is 50/50 regular and syn.

You can try 100% syn and see if it results in oil leakage. If not, go for it.

I personally use Mobil 1 0w20 and change at 10K. I have almost 60K and never had any problems.

AMSOIL is very expensive! You can usually buy Mobil 1 at Advance Auto on sale and get 5 quarts and an oil filter for around $25. After four or five of those, you have enough left overs for a free oil change.

[lenzomaru]

I would like to use syntec oil, but as a way to save money as this will extend my oil change time, i currently change my oil at 5000km (dusty roads,day temp avg 31 deg c) with syntec i believe i can go for 10,000 saving me money for oil filters and also time (as i change oil myself) My yaris takes a little under 4 qts of oil

- 4 qt of castrol 10w 30 dino oil is $30 US
- 4 qt castrol 10w 30 full syntec $53 US

Since i'll be doing 2 dino oil changes in the same amount of time (10,000km) i'll have to buy 8 qts dino oil totaling $60 US as compared to $53 US for the full syntec during the same period (10,000) also i will have to purchase and extra oil filter ($20US) and my time to change it.

so the syntec works out for me

[lenzomaru]

Switched to Amsoil 10w 30 full syntec two days ago in my yaris sedan and my wife told me that the yaris is "driving dead"...Anybody know what maybe causing this ,, i used regular dino Castrol oil before, with no problems. I switched to syntec to save some $$$ since it increases my oil change interval.

Should i leave the syntec in my car? or drain out and go back to dino?

[tmontague]

Switched to Amsoil 10w 30 full syntec two days ago in my yaris sedan and my wife told me that the yaris is "driving dead"...Anybody know what maybe causing this ,, i used regular dino Castrol oil before, with no problems. I switched to syntec to save some $$$ since it increases my oil change interval.

Should i leave the syntec in my car? or drain out and go back to dino?

Not too sure what she means by "driving dead". When I changed to syn I noticed easier starts and smoother engine function (noise, feel, vibration etc). I just use Canadian tires Formula syn oil which is very cheap on sale. Removed my valve cover last night to replace the seal and at 138000km it look ridiculously clean and brand new. No dark oil build up any where. I change it every 8-9000km depending on if I'm doing more city driving or not and the temperature.

[Hershey]

I used 5w-20 and 5w-30 Shell synthetic due to quieter engine , especially on interstate . That oil was less than $3 a quart . Also used Pennzoil Platinum at times . I think the Canadian tires Formula synthetic is SHELL . I've posted used oil analysises for the Yarises we had .

[tmontague]

I used 5w-20 and 5w-30 Shell synthetic due to quieter engine , especially on interstate . That oil was less than $3 a quart . Also used Pennzoil Platinum at times . I think the Canadian tires Formula synthetic is SHELL . I've posted used oil analysises for the Yarises we had .

Yes, i've read that a few times as well, ct's formula syn is made by Shell. It's not a pure syn oil but the price is awesome on sale and my engine looks brand new inside so I'll stick with what seems to be working and is economical. Plus the winter start ups are much easier. Although i'm adding a block heater this summer.

[sheekeebut]

I used 5w-20 and 5w-30 Shell synthetic due to quieter engine , especially on interstate . That oil was less than $3 a quart . Also used Pennzoil Platinum at times . I think the Canadian tires Formula synthetic is SHELL . I've posted used oil analysises for the Yarises we had .

Have you used or analyzed Mobil1 5W30 or Castrol Edge 5W30?

[Thirty-Nine]

Been running Mobile 1 since nearly day one. Just purchased some Redline 75w90 GL-4 for the trans. Need to install it. I just put the Redline in my Suzuki and it shifts very nicely.

[Hershey]

Have you used or analyzed Mobil1 5W30 or Castrol Edge 5W30? Sorry , no , just the SHELL and Pennzoil . Using Mobil1 A.F.E. 0w-20 in a '13 FIT . No U.O.A.s for that yet .

[Hershey]

:thumbsup: Been running Mobile 1 since nearly day one. Just purchased some Redline 75w90 GL-4 for the trans. Need to install it. I just put the Redline in my Suzuki and it shifts very nicely. The MT90 is a great improvement for shifting . No clunk into reverse , notchiness or grinding . Would not advise a GL-5 for any Toyota manual tranny . Tried a MOBIL1 gear oil all the issues described and got worse . Drained it and put in the MT90 . Problems gone .

[UberSilver]

I'm posting in this very old thread because I believe that better oil is more critical on our older engines. I'm one of those people that drive my cars until they are totalled or so tired that they must be put down.

I've run synthetic oils for a very long time. When I was a kid I started to use synthetic in my air cooled motorcycles. At the time(mid 70's) the only brand making synthetic was Mobil1.

So for decades I was a big fan of Mobil1 oil. In the last few years I've seen more poor results in the form of UOA's for Mibil1 than ever before.

If you need a cheap synthetic oil, I say the Penzoil Platinum has taken to top spot from Mobil, as far as popular store bought brands. The UOA's show this to be the case.

For some time now I've been using Royal Purple and find it to be far superior to the more easy to find Synthetics.

If you buy RP in a 5-gallon jug, it can be had for under $7. per quart.

My 1.5 liter loves the stuff, and revs smoother with RP, than with any other oils I've tried.