Cold Idle Speed Question...

[cpnnz]

Hi. This is my first post. I'm in Christchurch New Zealand.
My 2002 Vitz ( which is a Japanese model Yaris ) seems to have a very high cold idle speed, which takes a while to come down to a 'normal' idle speed.
Driving when cold, the car seems to want to accelerate even when the gas pedal is not being used. And car is in gear ( it's a 1.3L manual trans )
Once warmed up, the idle speed seems normal, and drives normally.
It takes a few minutes for coolant temp light to go off.
Is there any adjustment for this cold idle speed? that won't affect the normal idling speed when warm?
Thanks very much for any assistance : )
Chris

[Yaris Hilton]

I'd think it's programmed into the ECU.

[kustom play]

cold start injector issue?

[1NZYaris1]

Hi Chris
where abouts in Christchurch are you :biggrin:
i might be able to help you out , but i am in Auckland for another
2 weeks .
Oh and i live in Rolleston , normally, lol

[Morgan]

Having owned several later model Toyotas, they all pretty much come standard with the 'cold/high rev' setting when the coolant temp is below a specified point. During the summer, my "cool" light never comes on, but since the temperature is getting colder here lately, it will stay on for several minutes. The higher revs and lower gear (for automatics) will get the car up to operating temperature faster.

You may want to try a different weight oil, if you use 5w30, you may want to try 0w40. The oil numbers are the oil's viscosity ranges - the later number is basically how viscous the oil is when warm, the initial number is the oil when cool.

The idling problem may be due to the engines preprogrammed set up to get the engine up to temperature quicker, but if its noticeable enough to want to move the car - you may want to take it to the dealer and have them check your idle setting. Has this been a recent problem or has the engine always behaved this way (under the same conditions - ambient temp/only on start up)?

[Lafiro]

And here I thought in the cold it was better to use a lower number: 5w20, instead of 5w30..... ????????????????????

[Morgan]

Ok:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_chart.jpg

so yes, I had it backwards originally - sorry!

[yaris-me]

Is the high cold idle speed recent or has it always been that way? If it is recent then there are some issues. When was the last tune up, etc...?

[rob323]

Sounds pretty typical for an Echo/ Vitz.

[TheSilkySmooth]

And here I thought in the cold it was better to use a lower number: 5w20, instead of 5w30..... ???????????????????? This is a thermostat controlled, water cooled engine - you dont change the second viscosity # (oil grade or weight) for winter use unless its extremely severe - like sustained 10F below zero and a short tripper. The first number really means NOTHING** other than the lower the # the bettter the extreme cold flow properties. Motor oil is ALWAYS MUCH THICKER when cold than at 200F. It would be actually better to use a 10w-30 and have a block heater than go to a 5w or 0w. Remember the piston clearance is large when cold and the oil has to be of sufficient viscosity to prevent galling and slap during that critical 5 min warm up drive. It also has to be thin enough to pump and flow. A HD diesel oil like Rotella T 10w-30 has a -40C/F pour point and is easily good for cold starting at 10 above F. A truely remarkable dino oil that has almost universal application from Motorbike to diesel tractor to Yaris to 350HP 327 Chevy II to 3HP Briggs Lawnmower.


** 5W means Winter and may exhibit oil flow similar to how a SAE-5 grade oil would flow if chilled at ~ 0deg C. This will be much thicker than a hot SAE 30wt but substantially thinner than a chilled SAE 30wt. You could call a modern single grade SAE 20 oil a 10W-20 because it would most likely demonstrate 10W cold flow - or better, due to the improved oil refining process compared to that 15 years ago. And GASP! most ALL USA sold synthetics are just refined, conventional paraffin oil. Big oil loves taking your monies and stickin it to ya.