How does one "test" his oil . . .

[woof]

I noticed this said several places below. Is there some sort of kit one can get if you are going extended on changes with full synthetic?

[jambo101]

How do you test your oil? go to Google and select one of the dozens of oil analysis companies dedicated to automotive testing Example=http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ ,they will send you a vial that needs to be filled with your oil then send it back to the lab and within a week or two they will send you the report on your oils condition.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm

[UTVitz]

Everything I've read and seen shows that it costs more to have this analysis done than to change the oil on a regular car. These tests seem beneficial if you're doing vehicles that hold a lot of oil-semi trucks/buses or you suspect internal engine problems.

[Lazerdot]

If your going to run past the recommend service life of your oil under the conditions of your driving then oil analysis makes since. For me l'm staying at the severe conditions milage of the Amsoil SSO
oil, 17,500 miles. I'll change then and don't plan spending the $$ on a test.

[Yaris Hilton]

Everything I've read and seen shows that it costs more to have this analysis done than to change the oil on a regular car. These tests seem beneficial if you're doing vehicles that hold a lot of oil-semi trucks/buses or you suspect internal engine problems.

Which is why I'll stick with conventional oil and recommended change intervals.

[RedRide]

Everything I've read and seen shows that it costs more to have this analysis done than to change the oil on a regular car. These tests seem beneficial if you're doing vehicles that hold a lot of oil-semi trucks/buses or you suspect internal engine problems.

Exactly, just change the oil. :smile:

[supmet]

Interesting discrepancies between oil testing companies:

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/labtest.html

so when you get your UOA know the actual results are + or - 100%

[woof]

Well, I know the diff between regular and synthetic oil. Synth works.

[1stToyota]

You can get a free kit from Blackstone, then pay them for the UOA, or you can buy a test kit from WIX and get the UOA done for free. WIX results aren't as detailed, final prices are pretty close.

I plan on getting two Blackstone UOAs done, testing two synthetics against each other [Mobil 1 0w-30 vs PP 5w-30] to help decide which does the best job.

[bronsin]

I will test your oil for $10! In fact you dont even have to send me any. I just do a mind meld with your car! (only in the lower 48 not including ak and hi) No one else can do this. Is that hy tec or what?!

[R2D2]

Interesting discrepancies between oil testing companies:

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/labtest.html

so when you get your UOA know the actual results are + or - 100%

3 out of those 4 labs are quite close-remember the spectro is in parts per MILLION. Knowing and trusting the lab you use is part of the deal, just like everything else.

Testing the oil does cost a bit of money but gives you info you can't get any other way. It is true the testing can cost as much (or more depending on what your using) than doing an oil change. However, you can change your oil as often as you want if you've got an internal coolant leak or the engine is ingesting dirt somewhere, for instance, it WILL wear prematurely. So, if you can extend oil change intervals and/or monitor for problems it can be worth it. It at least is a good idea periodically to monitor for problems. You do have to know something about reading them as in most cases the labs observations/recommendations are pretty inadequate.

Having said that it's pretty much my hobby and is a better investment than a lot of hobbies I can think of.

R2

[TheSilkySmooth]

From what Ive seen on oil boards, 90 percent of people getting their oil tested misinterpret or make bad assumptions with the test results. All said, an economical practice (using a good long life synthetic like Total Quartz or Motul X-max or redline) would be to: just do a 2x /year oil change in december and april in cold climates. Make sure you have a good filter on there too - nothing too fine sieve. This would not apply to short trippers , you need more frequent OCi. Me, I dont like mid grade PAO synthetics, PAO are not inherently good lubricants - though they are good cold flow fluids. They will oxidise and thicken over long drain intervals. Amsoil (?) and M1 Ep are examples of PAO syns. The toyota 0w-20 Idemitsu syntetic is a fine oil if you are not afraid of 20wt like me - My car gets flogged too hard, IMO , for 20wt but I'm willing to be proved wrong on this. Note: I am not aware of the 1nzfe being spec'd for 0w-20 oils and I dont know why, given toyota spec the 1nzfe for 5w-20.

[R2D2]

Note: I am not aware of the 1nzfe being spec'd for 0w-20 oils and I dont know why, given toyota spec the 1nzfe for 5w-20.

You're correct-it's not speced for 0W-20 and also correct that it makes no sense in light of allowed 5W-20 use. The BIOSYN I'm currently running has the highest HTHS of any 20 wt I've seen so no worries.

R2