Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[CTScott]

I have been getting a lot of questions lately regarding installing remote start on a Yaris, so today I put together a wiring guide for those interested.

30944

[ezhacker1]

sweet, now i can finally install the Remote start part, thanks alot man.

[schleppy]

You kick ass Scott!

[Revsson]

CTScott gets my vote for Best YarisWorld Member of the Decade! :clap:

[upgradedyaris]

Awesome Scott, nice chatting and thanks for the advice thus far. I ordered mine today. :)

Duane

[Reeves360]

I have been getting a lot of questions lately regarding installing remote start on a Yaris, so today I put together a wiring guide for those interested.

30944

SWEET!

Thank you!

[Reeves360]

I have been getting a lot of questions lately regarding installing remote start on a Yaris, so today I put together a wiring guide for those interested.

30944

Hey Scott,

Seeing as I have installed an OEM alarm which added factory keyless entry as well which remote starter what would you recommend that I use for a remote starter? I'd like to continue to use the Toyota remotes.

I would also prefer to use home made neutral safety switch so that I don't have to perform a sequence of steps every time I park the car. Do you have any suggestions on the switch that I use as well?

On a side note I would like to install the TRD push button start as well down the line even if that means I have to put in my car and turn the car to on. Do you for see any issues having both remote start and push button start. Seem to me that you wouldn't but some of the wiring for the remote start and push button start may tie into some of the same locations.

Thank you for all the excellent help here on Yaris World!

:thumbup:

[CTScott]

Hey Scott,

Seeing as I have installed an OEM alarm which added factory keyless entry as well which remote starter what would you recommend that I use for a remote starter? I'd like to continue to use the Toyota remotes.

I would also prefer to use home made neutral safety switch so that I don't have to perform a sequence of steps every time I park the car. Do you have any suggestions on the switch that I use as well?

On a side note I would like to install the TRD push button start as well down the line even if that means I have to put in my car and turn the car to on. Do you for see any issues having both remote start and push button start. Seem to me that you wouldn't but some of the wiring for the remote start and push button start may tie into some of the same locations.

Thank you for all the excellent help here on Yaris World!

:thumbup:


To add remote start, whereby you can still use your Toyota remotes, I would recommend the Valet 561T (which allows you to use your door lock signal as the remote start trigger.)

For the neutral safety input, I haven't installed remote start on a standard. In doing a bit of web research on the topic I've seen people create things as simple as an array of springs surrounding the shift lever (so that a ground connection is made if the shift lever is moved out of the neutral position).

The push start shouldn't have an impact on the remote starter. They would indeed share some connection points.

[jroy]

Anyone ever try installing a Avital 4113 starter in a Yaris? This was the only one button starter I could find locally and I need it by Wednesday (girlfriend's birthday).

[CTScott]

Anyone ever try installing a Avital 4113 starter in a Yaris? This was the only one button starter I could find locally and I need it by Wednesday (girlfriend's birthday).

It's a DEI product, so it should be decent. I just read through the install guide for it and It should be very straight forward with my DIY.

[jroy]

Hi Scott, this starter has a couple of connections I couldn't match up using your install guide.

FACTORY ALARM DISARM
FACTORY REARM
(+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)
(-) ACTIVATION INPUT

And where is the neutral safety switch connection? Or is that not needed because the motor wont start unless its in park or neutral? Thanks!

-Josh

[CTScott]

Hi Scott, this starter has a couple of connections I couldn't match up using your install guide.

FACTORY ALARM DISARM
FACTORY REARM
(+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)
(-) ACTIVATION INPUT

And where is the neutral safety switch connection? Or is that not needed because the motor wont start unless its in park or neutral? Thanks!

-Josh


Does your car have an alarm? If not those are not used, if it does and the alarm is the factory TVIP one, I can point you to those connections. If it is an aftermarket one, then you will have to refer to the documentation for the alarm.

A neutral safety switch would be used if you are installing a remote starter on a Yaris with a manual transmission. The Yaris doesn't have one, so as per my guide, you would need to purchase or create one that will work with the Yaris's shift.

[jroy]

Hi Scott, I found a wiring diagram that said:

Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock

So I have that covered. The other two I'm still not sure about though.

[jroy]

For the (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) it says:

As an add-on car starter: If connected, disconnect the ignition/accessory
input of the remote controlled security or keyless entry system.
Connect the H1/3 YELLOW ignition output to the ignition/accessory
input of the remote controlled security or keyless entry system. The wire
will prevent the host system from sensing that the ignition is on during
remote start operation.

Should I use the "Disarm No Unlock use key sense wire" ? That requires a negative input not a positive input like this one outputs. Should I get a relay and wire it that way?

Also, the (-) ACTIVATION INPUT,

This input comes from the factory set to 1 activation pulse. This means
that it is necessary to have 1 ground pulse on the white/blue wire for
the remote start to activate or to deactivate. The same holds true for the
remote control activation when set to a two pulse setting it is necessary
to press the button twice for the remote start to activate or deactivate.

I can't quite figure out what that means. Would this input be used if you wanted to use the factory lock button? It has a little diagram about a Momentary switch so I really don't know what its talking about.

[CTScott]

For the (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) it says:

As an add-on car starter: If connected, disconnect the ignition/accessory
input of the remote controlled security or keyless entry system.
Connect the H1/3 YELLOW ignition output to the ignition/accessory
input of the remote controlled security or keyless entry system. The wire
will prevent the host system from sensing that the ignition is on during
remote start operation.

Should I use the "Disarm No Unlock use key sense wire" ? That requires a negative input not a positive input like this one outputs. Should I get a relay and wire it that way?

Also, the (-) ACTIVATION INPUT,

This input comes from the factory set to 1 activation pulse. This means
that it is necessary to have 1 ground pulse on the white/blue wire for
the remote start to activate or to deactivate. The same holds true for the
remote control activation when set to a two pulse setting it is necessary
to press the button twice for the remote start to activate or deactivate.

I can't quite figure out what that means. Would this input be used if you wanted to use the factory lock button? It has a little diagram about a Momentary switch so I really don't know what its talking about.

Whether the (+)Ignition out is required or not for yours will depend on the particular alarm that you are using. You didn't answer above, as to if it is the factory installed OEM one, or an aftermarket one.

The (-)Activation input is for triggering the remote starter from an existing remote.

[jroy]

Hi Scott, it is the factory alarm.

[jroy]

The wiring diagram I found said the "Key Sense" wire is yellow on the ignition harness but the only yellow wire is the +12V? There is another yellow wire coming off the side of the ignition but its on a different plug.

[CTScott]

Hi Scott, it is the factory alarm.

OK. The TVIP OEM Alarm has a 36 pin connector:

31700


Pin 12 (white/light blue wire) goes to a starter cut relay, so you will need to follow that wire to the starter cut relay, and tap the Black Wire coming off of that relay with your start wire. On a non-alarm car that would be the black wires on the ignition switch connector.

Pin 9 (orange wire) is the ignition switch power input to the TVIP, so if it actually needs the (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) connection, that's where it would be done.


The key sense wire is the yellow wire on the two pin connector that is near the face of the keyswitch.

[CTScott]

Here's connector D19, which is the key sense connection (2 pin with yellow and white/black wires):

31701

[jroy]

Um, I'm not following what you're doing with the pin 12 wire?

[CTScott]

Um, I'm not following what you're doing with the pin 12 wire?

The mistaken word tape for tap probably didn't help. Theoretically, if you connect to the black start wire on the ignition switch, you will not be able to start the car with the remote starter, as the alarm ECU has a relay between that wire and the starter relay that allows it to keep the key from starting the car, unless the alarm is deactivated. In order for the remote start to work, you have to connect your remote starter's start wire to a point beyond the alarm starter cut relay.

[theFlash]

First I have to say thanks to CTScott for the guide. Pictures and accurate location, plug and wire made it so much easier than the usual "installer-speak", just listing wire color.

I just installed a Hornet (DEI) remote starter/alarm/keyless entry combination in a 2007 Yaris for a family member that had power locks standard, but no remote. It went pretty smoothly but I thought I'd add my thoughts incase someone searches for this in the future.

Obviously, I had to find additional wiring information due to the alarm components not being covered in the guide. Most was straight forward, but I had to search 10+ threads for the domelight wire as I found it listed as "fusebox, pink wire". Well there's probably more than 10 pink wires in that location. For the record it's the pink (-) in a six pin plug, with only a blue (+) and a white/black stripe occupying the plug. See pic here: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22008&highlight=dome+light&page=3

Other items were how to take some things apart. Plastic is easy to break, so I wasted time searching multiple threads for the correct way to take things out. I hadn't worked on a Toyota in years and amazed that a lot of things just snap together. But knowing exactly how saves fiddling time.

Glovebox: slide small rod off on lower right-hand side and then just squeeze the sides and pull-out one side, then the other.
Lower steering column shroud: 2 screws obscured by steering wheel, 1 screw underneath right of column height adjustment. Then squeeze sides of lowershroud (there are 2 clips on either side). I made the mistake of sticking my hand underneath and trying to flick the tab off on one side. It broke off, fixed with glue, but was needless.
Small pull out drawer in front of fuse box: squeeze and pull out one side, then other.

The door sill is only held in by clips, just pull up. This allows you to remove the driver's side kick panel to get to wiring for keyless entry. Kick panel has a clip on it's left side and a bolt on the right side. I just pulled on the left and then rotated it out of the way.

For console, just pull lower center colsole panel (panel below hvac controls). Then pull the larger piece around the gear-shift plate. I didn't need to go any further than this for console.

One other item that sucked my time was finding a suitable spot to get wires from the engine bay to the cabin. While most keyless remotes have one 12+ contant power requirement, my combo unit had a "relay" satellite that required two 12 + constant power, so I had to run the second direct to the battery, plus there's the hood pin switch (grounds when hood up, can't start or sets off alarm) and siren. There's an excellent spot on the passenger side, very high up on the firewall partially obscured by wire looms. It's a hole with a rubber plug. I drilled the plug which became a grommet. This is why I had to remove the glove box. Be carefull to drill straight or more towards the passenger side as there's HVAC pipes very close on the driver's side of the hole in the cabin.

Other than that, there were just a few things with the unit I bought, such as programming the unit to do a double (-) pulse for opening all doors. Initially it would only open and lock the driver's door.

I would also say that if it's your first time doing this (as it was for me), take it easy and do it in two days. I rushed it in 1 day, finished at about 2 am and although satisfying to test it out and have it work, I paid for it the next day. After soldering, taping, contorting, I over-exerted myself. I woke up at 4 am with pain bad enough in my right arm to obviously wake me up, lol. A couple ice-packs later and I could actually sleep. So don't do as I did and do what I say instead...lol.

[Skylinecar1982]

I have a 09 yaris s with immobilizer and factory keyless. I am trying to install a 1155tl but am having two problems.

One I can't find a negative pulse trigger from the factory keyless?? or postive.

And do I have to use the key to unlock the door once remote started???


Thanks
mark

[CTScott]

Did the lock and unlock negative pulse wires are shown on page 7 of the guide not work? I don't recall if they get pulsed when the factory keyless locks/unlocks the doors.

And, no you should be able to unlock the doors with the remote, even when the car is started by the remote starter.

[Skylinecar1982]

Did the lock and unlock negative pulse wires are shown on page 7 of the guide not work? I don't recall if they get pulsed when the factory keyless locks/unlocks the doors.

And, no you should be able to unlock the doors with the remote, even when the car is started by the remote starter.

Yeah I hooked up the brown for lock but no dice. But the bottom right wire (orange i believe) works but only for unlock.


And the factory keyless remote doesnt work when I start it just pulsing the wire manually

Thanks Mark

[CTScott]

Yeah I hooked up the brown for lock but no dice. But the bottom right wire (orange i believe) works but only for unlock.


And the factory keyless remote doesnt work when I start it just pulsing the wire manually

Thanks Mark

If the orange works for unlock, then the pink directly above the orange should work for lock.

I am not catching what you mean about the remote not working?

[Skylinecar1982]

If the orange works for unlock, then the pink directly above the orange should work for lock.

I am not catching what you mean about the remote not working?

Tried the pink too also no luck but will try again tomorrow.


I can take the green wire from the ultra start ( the wire that needs the negative pulse to start.) and I can manually ground the wire twice to make the remote start think it is getting a negative pulse. Then the device will start the car. Once the car is started through the device. The factory remote will not work anymore for the vehicle.

Thanks
Mark

[CTScott]

Tried the pink too also no luck but will try again tomorrow.


I can take the green wire from the ultra start ( the wire that needs the negative pulse to start.) and I can manually ground the wire twice to make the remote start think it is getting a negative pulse. Then the device will start the car. Once the car is started through the device. The factory remote will not work anymore for the vehicle.

Thanks
Mark

There are two pinks. Make sure that it's the large one on the end, not the small one in the middle.

[Skylinecar1982]

There are two pinks. Make sure that it's the large one on the end, not the small one in the middle.

Yeah that is the one that I tried but it was late in the day and I will try again tomorrow.

thank you
Mark

[CTScott]

Yeah that is the one that I tried but it was late in the day and I will try again tomorrow.

thank you
Mark

I just downloaded the manual for the 1155. They actually say to connect the pulse to start wire to the unlock rather than lock. They probably do that because of cars that have security that prevents them from starting unless the car was unlocked. That may be why your factory remote gets locked out after starting.

[Skylinecar1982]

I just downloaded the manual for the 1155. They actually say to connect the pulse to start wire to the unlock rather than lock. They probably do that because of cars that have security that prevents them from starting unless the car was unlocked. That may be why your factory remote gets locked out after starting.

Oh well I tried it on the lock and unlock wires on page 7 but nothing happened. But I did have it working with unlock using the thicker orange wire in the bottom right of the connector but , after it started the remote still wouldn't work. The doors where open but I wanted them to be closed so that I can start it and not have to watch it while it warms up.(security wise.)

[CTScott]

Oh well I tried it on the lock and unlock wires on page 7 but nothing happened. But I did have it working with unlock using the thicker orange wire in the bottom right of the connector but , after it started the remote still wouldn't work. The doors where open but I wanted them to be closed so that I can start it and not have to watch it while it warms up.(security wise.)

The 1155 has the option to relock after starting, so you could set it up to start on the double unlock pulse and then relock.

[Skylinecar1982]

The 1155 has the option to relock after starting, so you could set it up to start on the double unlock pulse and then relock.

I have it working but now there is a new problem I cannot get it to respond when I program the unit for more then one pulse. I can get it to work on one pulse but when I go to unlock the car it will shut off. Hence why I need it to work with more then one pulse.

[Skylinecar1982]

FYI

I found what was wrong. I have been using your write up the whole time to install this remote start. You have on page 4 that IGN 1 is Green and IGN 2 is Pink. It should be Pink is IGN 1 and GREEN is IGN 2/ ACC. I checked this with the Crimestopper wiring diagram and the Fortin wiring diagram and they both have Pink as IGN 1 and Green as either IGN 2 or ACC.

If you don't have a immobilizer and factory keyless this probably won't make a difference but if you do it could mean the difference between the car starting or not starting.

I spent 3 days thinking something was wrong with the trigger wire I found but in the end it was that. So now I can use Unlock or Lock. But still can't use the remote because Toyota vehicles with factory keyless and immobilizer won't respond to wireless commands when running. May be other Toyota's but I know for sure keyless and immobilizer toyota cars don't.

Thanks anyways everything else was extremely helpful.

[CTScott]

FYI

I found what was wrong. I have been using your write up the whole time to install this remote start. You have on page 4 that IGN 1 is Green and IGN 2 is Pink. It should be Pink is IGN 1 and GREEN is IGN 2/ ACC. I checked this with the Crimestopper wiring diagram and the Fortin wiring diagram and they both have Pink as IGN 1 and Green as either IGN 2 or ACC.

If you don't have a immobilizer and factory keyless this probably won't make a difference but if you do it could mean the difference between the car starting or not starting.

I spent 3 days thinking something was wrong with the trigger wire I found but in the end it was that. So now I can use Unlock or Lock. But still can't use the remote because Toyota vehicles with factory keyless and immobilizer won't respond to wireless commands when running. May be other Toyota's but I know for sure keyless and immobilizer toyota cars don't.

Thanks anyways everything else was extremely helpful.


The Toyota service manual EWDs describe the wires as I listed them and that's how I have them wired to my UltraStart remote starter. I do have the immobilizer and am using a Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL bypass module. Mine had factory power locks/windows, but not remote keyless entry.

If you start the car with the key, do you see the same behavior, where the remote will not function when the engine is running?

[Skylinecar1982]

The Toyota service manual EWDs describe the wires as I listed them and that's how I have them wired to my UltraStart remote starter. I do have the immobilizer and am using a Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL bypass module. Mine had factory power locks/windows, but not remote keyless entry.

If you start the car with the key, do you see the same behavior, where the remote will not function when the engine is running?


Yeah started with the key and keyless still doesn't function. This is a known thing for Toyota's to lock out factory wireless when vehicle is running. You got around it by having a keyless that is not fully integrated into the car. It's some sort of security measure I think.

As far as the wires go if Toyota says that green is IGN 1 then it is IGN 1 but crimestopper and fortin have listed it as IGN 2. And this is the only thing that I needed to change in order to get the vehicle remote start working. So I am happy. Wonder who has it wrong Toyota or others.

Again thanks.

[CTScott]

Yeah started with the key and keyless still doesn't function. This is a known thing for Toyota's to lock out factory wireless when vehicle is running. You got around it by having a keyless that is not fully integrated into the car. It's some sort of security measure I think.

As far as the wires go if Toyota says that green is IGN 1 then it is IGN 1 but crimestopper and fortin have listed it as IGN 2. And this is the only thing that I needed to change in order to get the vehicle remote start working. So I am happy. Wonder who has it wrong Toyota or others.

Again thanks.


I am trying to figure out how the door control receiver knows that the engine is running. The door control receiver only has a 2 wire connection to the body ECU. The red wire is the door control receiver input wire. You could try popping that pin to see if blocking comm in that direction keeps it from being told that the engine is running.

[Skylinecar1982]

Yeah I found the two wires White and Red I disconnected the red and the wireless didn't work anymore nevermind when the key was in.

Do you know exactly what happens between the BCM and the Door Receiever within those two wires? I don't see any of the wires going directly to the door lock system. So the BCM has to do the work to cut it off.

So the issue is probably the key ecu telling the BCM that the key is in the ign. And to block the signal between the two may cause more issues then I have already.

[CTScott]

Yeah I found the two wires White and Red I disconnected the red and the wireless didn't work anymore nevermind when the key was in.

Do you know exactly what happens between the BCM and the Door Receiever within those two wires? I don't see any of the wires going directly to the door lock system. So the BCM has to do the work to cut it off.

So the issue is probably the key ecu telling the BCM that the key is in the ign. And to block the signal between the two may cause more issues then I have already.

Did you try the white separately as well? The reason I ask it that the two are listed as input an output, but it is not clear as to whether the in and out are relative to the body ECU or to the door control receiver.

The service manual doesn't detail the comm between the two, and since it is two wire, instead of one I believe that rather than being LIN bus, like a lot of the other subsystems are to their respective ECU, that it is simply a simple pulse signal in either direction. You could verify that with a voltmeter, by watching the white and red relative to body ground, while hitting the remote.

[tchwue]

can i join pink and green wire together for remote start? thanks

[CTScott]

can i join pink and green wire together for remote start? thanks

If you did, then ON and ACC would act the same when you turn the key.

[tchwue]

because my issue now is, i connect 12v remote start cable to pink, add a relay to to provide 12v to green when there is power supply to pink. it doesn't work. it will crunk the starter but engine won't run. need your help, thanks

[CTScott]

because my issue now is, i connect 12v remote start cable to pink, add a relay to to provide 12v to green when there is power supply to pink. it doesn't work. it will crunk the starter but engine won't run. need your help, thanks

If the starter cranks, but the car doesn't start, then it sounds like your car has the engine immobilizer, which requires a bypass module (like the Fortin one).

Stick your key in the ignition, but don't turn it and then start the car with the remote starter. If it cranks and runs, then you definitely need a transponder key bypass module.

[tchwue]

If the starter cranks, but the car doesn't start, then it sounds like your car has the engine immobilizer, which requires a bypass module (like the Fortin one).

Stick your key in the ignition, but don't turn it and then start the car with the remote starter. If it cranks and runs, then you definitely need a transponder key bypass module.

ok, thanks man...

[adam1981]

Thanks for the guide in the OP... I successfully connected a remote start/alarm with the use of it. I have to do some more research for some of the alarm items though.

I do have one area of concern. When the Yaris is running under the control of the remote start unit, there is a buzzing sound coming from underneath the dash from what looks like a relay - but there is no label for it (I already looked in the manual too). It is the blue box on the bottom center of wiring harness panel where you connect the positive parking light.

The sound goes away after you put the key in, on, and press the brake.

Is this sound normal for this vehicle when using remote starts?

[CTScott]

Thanks for the guide in the OP... I successfully connected a remote start/alarm with the use of it. I have to do some more research for some of the alarm items though.

I do have one area of concern. When the Yaris is running under the control of the remote start unit, there is a buzzing sound coming from underneath the dash from what looks like a relay - but there is no label for it (I already looked in the manual too). It is the blue box on the bottom center of wiring harness panel where you connect the positive parking light.

The sound goes away after you put the key in, on, and press the brake.

Is this sound normal for this vehicle when using remote starts?

It sounds like the positive light feed is backfeeding the flasher relay. The Yaris is really a negative switched, not positive switched vehicle. I wired mine as a negative, but posted the positive option, as I noticed it documented on a keyless entry DIY. Looking at the EWD, wiring positive to 4A-29 will cause a backfeed. It will not hurt anything, but will produce that annoying buzz.

With your remote starter, can you select negative instead and wire to the negative wire instead? If not, you can use a standard automotive relay as an inverter:

http://images.the12volt.com/12voltimages/pos2neg.gif

[adam1981]

It sounds like the positive light feed is backfeeding the flasher relay. The Yaris is really a negative switched, not positive switched vehicle. I wired mine as a negative, but posted the positive option, as I noticed it documented on a keyless entry DIY. Looking at the EWD, wiring positive to 4A-29 will cause a backfeed. It will not hurt anything, but will produce that annoying buzz.

With your remote starter, can you select negative instead and wire to the negative wire instead? If not, you can use a standard automotive relay as an inverter:

http://images.the12volt.com/12voltimages/pos2neg.gif

I have two wires: 1) Parking Light Flasher Feed 2) Parking Light Flasher Output

I have 2 connected to the parking light switch wire under the column and 1 connected down there by that relay. The remote start manual says I can connect 1 to a standard 12V source for + switching and ground for - switching, so I guess I should put 1 to chasis.

Thanks for the clarification!

edit: Yeap, that worked. Thanks again for the clarification on the switching!

[CTScott]

I have two wires: 1) Parking Light Flasher Feed 2) Parking Light Flasher Output

I have 2 connected to the parking light switch wire under the column and 1 connected down there by that relay. The remote start manual says I can connect 1 to a standard 12V source for + switching, so I guess that is what I need to do.

Hang on - It sounds like you have both a positive and a negative hooked up. You can only do one or the other. What remote starter are you using?

[adam1981]

Hang on - It sounds like you have both a positive and a negative hooked up. You can only do one or the other. What remote starter are you using?

I realized my error and edited my post... :) Thanks for the help!

[CTScott]

I realized my error and edited my post... :) Thanks for the help!

Very good - The wording in the remote starter manuals can be mighty confusing.

For the additional alarm wires, post up what you need and I'll add all of them to the document.

[adam1981]

Very good - The wording in the remote starter manuals can be mighty confusing.

For the additional alarm wires, post up what you need and I'll add all of them to the document.

Right now from what I can remember this is what else I need :

Headlights (I have a low current neg headlight output)
Door Triggers and type (have pos and neg trigger wires)
Also have aux outputs for various things such as remote window roll up...would be great if I found where to tap the windows up.

Oh, I have a Prestige APS-997N...

[CTScott]

Right now from what I can remember this is what else I need :

Headlights (I have a low current neg headlight output)
Door Triggers and type (have pos and neg trigger wires)
Also have aux outputs for various things such as remote window roll up...would be great if I found where to tap the windows up.

Oh, I have a Prestige APS-997N...

Headlights: No low current tap, (~5A for low beams) - negative trigger, sky blue wire in pin 8 of headlight stalk connector.

Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

If the alarm only has one input for the 2 or 4 doors, you can tap all wires together.


Auto window up/down module install:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=388503&postcount=39

[adam1981]

Headlights: No low current tap, (~5A for low beams) - negative trigger, sky blue wire in pin 8 of headlight stalk connector.

Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

If the alarm only has one input for the 2 or 4 doors, you can tap all wires together.


Auto window up/down module install:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=388503&postcount=39

Yeah, it said I would prob have to use a relay on the lights.

You are awesome! Thanks! Hopefully I can get these last few connections in tomorrow.

[adam1981]

Headlights: No low current tap, (~5A for low beams) - negative trigger, sky blue wire in pin 8 of headlight stalk connector.

Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

If the alarm only has one input for the 2 or 4 doors, you can tap all wires together.


Auto window up/down module install:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=388503&postcount=39

4A is the top left harness on that main panel behind the pull out pocket right?

All the wires match up except Green Pin 5 is Yellow on mine and There is nothing in Pin 20; there is a Blue in 19...

With the windows...do I have to have this additional module? The way my manual reads it will do auto-up without any additional modules... Can I just tap the Up Motor wires on that chart?

Also, something else I noticed, my horn is not sounding when it should with use of RS/Alarm. I tapped the wire under the column like your document said... It is negative switching right?

I need to get you a 6-pack for all this help! :thumbup:

[CTScott]

4A is the top left harness on that main panel behind the pull out pocket right?

All the wires match up except Green Pin 5 is Yellow on mine and There is nothing in Pin 20; there is a Blue in 19...

With the windows...do I have to have this additional module? The way my manual reads it will do auto-up without any additional modules... Can I just tap the Up Motor wires on that chart?

Also, something else I noticed, my horn is not sounding when it should with use of RS/Alarm. I tapped the wire under the column like your document said... It is negative switching right?

I need to get you a 6-pack for all this help! :thumbup:

Check the 4A wires relative to this:
37551

For the windows, you can use those same wires if your system has the auto roll up feature. Just make sure that it is rated for high current (20+A) or else you will need relays.

For the horn, the black wire on the spiral cable connector is definitely it, and it is definitely negative switched. Check your tap to make sure it bit all the way in.

[adam1981]

Check the 4A wires relative to this:
37551

For the windows, you can use those same wires if your system has the auto roll up feature. Just make sure that it is rated for high current (20+A) or else you will need relays.

For the horn, the black wire on the spiral cable connector is definitely it, and it is definitely negative switched. Check your tap to make sure it bit all the way in.

Yeap, that is the connector and the direction I was counting the terminals... So, I guess my green wire is yellow and not too sure about the discrepancy on blue 20. I will recount again, but have 4 or 5 times now...

[CTScott]

Yeap, that is the connector and the direction I was counting the terminals... So, I guess my green wire is yellow and not too sure about the discrepancy on blue 20. I will recount again, but have 4 or 5 times now...

OK. I just noticed you have an 08 sedan. On that 4A-5 is yellow instead of green.

I have an 08 Sedan fuse box on my test bench, and I also see the missing wire in 4A-20 (which the EWD for an 08 sedan says should be there). Those two wires are actually tied together as a single input into the ECM, so you probably only need the yellow and that is probably the reason for the lacking blue.

[adam1981]

OK. I just noticed you have an 08 sedan. On that 4A-5 is yellow instead of green.

I have an 08 Sedan fuse box on my test bench, and I also see the missing wire in 4A-20 (which the EWD for an 08 sedan says should be there). Those two wires are actually tied together as a single input into the ECM, so you probably only need the yellow and that is probably the reason for the lacking blue.

Identified all of the wires and confirmed they are the right ones! Thanks for your continued help! However, they have proven difficult to tap because of the little slack in the harness.

So...I am going to have to connect all the door and truck triggers together. Got to thinking though, when I do this - the Driver Info Center is going to show all doors opened when only one actually is...

Do you know if I could place a diode in line with each of the taps before I tie them together to prevent the problem caused by just tying them all together - to maintain the integrity of each circuit? Will a diode pass the negative/ground provided by the switching?

[CTScott]

Identified all of the wires and confirmed they are the right ones! Thanks for your continued help! However, they have proven difficult to tap because of the little slack in the harness.

So...I am going to have to connect all the door and truck triggers together. Got to thinking though, when I do this - the Driver Info Center is going to show all doors opened when only one actually is...

Do you know if I could place a diode in line with each of the taps before I tie them together to prevent the problem caused by just tying them all together - to maintain the integrity of each circuit? Will a diode pass the negative/ground provided by the switching?

Yes, you can diode isolate them to keep them separate. You would tap each door wire and insert a diode between each and the door open input on the alarm. The line on the diode needs to be towards the alarm side.

[adam1981]

Yes, you can diode isolate them to keep them separate. You would tap each door wire and insert a diode between each and the door open input on the alarm. The line on the diode needs to be towards the alarm side.

Got to browsing some of the other threads... Would there be a down side to tapping this pink wire for the door trigger for the alarm?

Think it would be a little easier than soldering in diodes...

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=369710&postcount=14

[CTScott]

Got to browsing some of the other threads... Would there be a down side to tapping this pink wire for the door trigger for the alarm?

Think it would be a little easier than soldering in diodes...

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=369710&postcount=14

You'd have to try it with your particular alarm. Others have had issues with the alarm not liking the slow fade from ground to +12 when the doors are closed.

[Yarisduder]

Hi CTScott, I got the Ultra Star 1155 and it wants two 30amp + power inputs, is there a second + I can grab inside the car?

[CTScott]

Hi CTScott, I got the Ultra Star 1155 and it wants two 30amp + power inputs, is there a second + I can grab inside the car?

Ignition switched or constant?

[Yarisduder]

They are both marked "30amp input Constant 12volt power at ignition harness."

[CTScott]

They are both marked "30amp input Constant 12volt power at ignition harness."

OK - Tie both to the constant power point that I show on the under dash fuse panel. On the Yaris, everything that the remote starter is switching is low current. On some cars, the ignition switch directly switches the starter solenoid, so the remote starters have the high current feeds for that reason.

[Yarisduder]

I can't seem to find a lock or unlock pulse. That connector in the kick panel doesn't provide anything... in fact I had the whole connector out and the remote locks still worked... Anyway, is there someplace else I can find a lock or unlock pulse? I prefer - but can deal with +. Thanks again.

[CTScott]

I can't seem to find a lock or unlock pulse. That connector in the kick panel doesn't provide anything... in fact I had the whole connector out and the remote locks still worked... Anyway, is there someplace else I can find a lock or unlock pulse? I prefer - but can deal with +. Thanks again.

Can you snap a picture of the drivers side kick plate connectors? The service manual shows GD1 and GD2 as being flipped on the sedan vs. on the liftback.

[Yarisduder]

Here it is. Looks the same as in your manual.

38235

[CTScott]

OK - looks like a misprint in the service manual (and not the first that I've run into), as that bottom connector is definitely GD1.

Measure the voltage on the blue wire on the bottom row (next to the large orange) while locking/unlocking with your keyfob. If that wire's voltage doesn't change when the lock clicks, then you may have to use the large orange (lock motor power) or pink (unlock motor power) for your lock/unlock detection.

[Yarisduder]

I the blue wire drops 1/10 of a volt when I lock/unlock. The large pink and orange wires cause my remote starter to blink the park lights incessantly, are they a + or - pulse?

[Yarisduder]

Looking at page 193 of the wiring diagrams, could I take a + pulse off connector 4H pin 8?

[CTScott]

Looking at page 193 of the wiring diagrams, could I take a + pulse off connector 4H pin 8?

That's basically the same as the orange wire on the kick panel (except 4H-8 is the passenger door lock motor).

[CTScott]

By the way, take a read through page 2. Skylinecar1982 ran into some issues with the 1155 because of how the OEM remote entry works.

[Yarisduder]

I had read that a few times. It works fine with the orange or pink wires but as a + pulse. Now we need to figure out how to bi-pass the remote lock-out once the engine is started.

[CTScott]

I had read that a few times. It works fine with the orange or pink wires but as a + pulse. Now we need to figure out how to bi-pass the remote lock-out once the engine is started.

You might want to try disconnecting the white wire to the keyless entry receiver as I mentioned on the third page. He tried the red, but never responded about trying the white.

[miyaris]

Is it easy to install a Avital 4111L remote start to a 2007 with no alarm system, no power windows or doors? What would be a fair price for install? I'm a lady with no knowledge on this subject. TIA

[CTScott]

Is it easy to install a Avital 4111L remote start to a 2007 with no alarm system, no power windows or doors? What would be a fair price for install? I'm a lady with no knowledge on this subject. TIA

I am not sure what an installer would charge, but for this installation on a Yaris, it should be at the bottom end of their installation fees, as it is a very easy install. Since your car is an 07, no transponder key bypass is necessary, so only the remote starter is required.

[Yarisduder]

The disconnecting the white wire to the receiver does absolutely nothing. The keyless entry works in the exact same manner as if it was connected.

Looking through the various diagrams and manuals it looks to me like the CAN bus thing is involved.

[CTScott]

The disconnecting the white wire to the receiver does absolutely nothing. The keyless entry works in the exact same manner as if it was connected.

Looking through the various diagrams and manuals it looks to me like the CAN bus thing is involved.

It's definitely not CAN between the Main Body ECU and the Door Control Receiver. I believe it's LIN bus, which is much easier to intercept. I need to get my hands on a door control receiver to sniff that data stream.

[chexmix]

hey ctscott.. thanks for the pdf file on the diy.. i have a question.. is there a door trigger on a 2008 yaris h/b with no power windows/locks? lmk thanks

[CTScott]

hey ctscott.. thanks for the pdf file on the diy.. i have a question.. is there a door trigger on a 2008 yaris h/b with no power windows/locks? lmk thanks

Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

If the alarm only has one input for the 2 or 4 doors, you can tap all wires together.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=37551&d=1287164342

[chexmix]

is there suppose to be any wire on the pin? cause there is none on the wire you mentioned? or just stick the wire from the alarm in the open harness that you mentioned?

[CTScott]

is there suppose to be any wire on the pin? cause there is none on the wire you mentioned? or just stick the wire from the alarm in the open harness that you mentioned?

There is no wire on any of the 5 pins listed above?

[chexmix]

yup no wires

[CTScott]

Here's a picture from Crashy, who is an 08 Liftback without power:

38498

[yarismadness]

Very complete document! Thank you CTScott!

Now i can make some additions:

1- The parking brake switch (-) can be located in the Running Light Relay connector, light green cable, position 11.

2- For starters that have only one ignition output, I've chosen to connect my ignition output(+) to Ignition 2 (+ pink) , then link Ignition 2 to Ignition 1 with a 3Amps diode (white band towards Ignition 1 - green). I don't know if I could have link them together, but this worked. Attention: I didn't verify the current through the diode (as I should have), so I don't know if the 3Amps work for everybody on every condition.

3- I've find out a way connect a single start wire (+), and NOT NEED to override the clunch switch. Connect two diodes, one from your start wire (+), one diode to the starter wire (white band towards the starter - black wire ), and another from your start wire to the clunch connector (white band towards the connector - black wire )

the diodes I've used are the SB360 (schottky diodes, 60V 3Amps), almost any type of diode should do (OF THE RIGHT current!!!!!). If doubt, MEASURE IT!
They can be found at www.digikey.com

Good starting!!!

[CTScott]

Very complete document! Thank you CTScott!

Now i can make some additions:

1- The parking brake switch (-) can be located in the Running Light Relay connector, light green cable, position 11.

2- For starters that have only one ignition output, I've chosen to connect my ignition output(+) to Ignition 2 (+ pink) , then link Ignition 2 to Ignition 1 with a 3Amps diode (white band towards Ignition 1 - green). I don't know if I could have link them together, but this worked. Attention: I didn't verify the current through the diode (as I should have), so I don't know if the 3Amps work for everybody on every condition.

3- I've find out a way connect a single start wire (+), and NOT NEED to override the clunch switch. Connect two diodes, one from your start wire (+), one diode to the starter wire (white band towards the starter - black wire ), and another from your start wire to the clunch connector (white band towards the connector - black wire )

the diodes I've used are the SB360 (schottky diodes, 60V 3Amps), almost any type of diode should do (OF THE RIGHT current!!!!!). If doubt, MEASURE IT!
They can be found at www.digikey.com

Good starting!!!

Nice additions.

The 3A diodes should be more than sufficient, as the ignition switch only switches power to a relay coil (~75mA) for starting.

[hatch2008]

i have a 08 yaris and im tryin to hook up a prostart remote starter, the car does have the key immobilezer and i have connected a idatalink by bass module , everything works fine except the car wont start with the remote, it will crank but not start?, i followed scotts diy which is awsome , on thing is that his diy shows a key sense wire where as my starter or immobileizer by pass ask for no such wire. ? woundering if some could please drop some input hear, i am an automoitve tech. and have connected everything as my instuctions say , ANYONE? LOL

[CTScott]

i have a 08 yaris and im tryin to hook up a prostart remote starter, the car does have the key immobilezer and i have connected a idatalink by bass module , everything works fine except the car wont start with the remote, it will crank but not start?, i followed scotts diy which is awsome , on thing is that his diy shows a key sense wire where as my starter or immobileizer by pass ask for no such wire. ? woundering if some could please drop some input hear, i am an automoitve tech. and have connected everything as my instuctions say , ANYONE? LOL




Which idatalink did you buy? Can you post a pic of the wiring diagram that came with it?

Also, the bypass modules typically have a learning mode, where they read your key, so they can emulate it. Did you go through that procedure?

[hatch2008]

ill try to upload the diagram tomorrow as it is midnight hear rite now , and yes i have learned the key, it wouldnt work at alll until the key was learned. almost seems like its missing a signal form the ign or immizer.

[CTScott]

ill try to upload the diagram tomorrow as it is midnight hear rite now , and yes i have learned the key, it wouldnt work at alll until the key was learned. almost seems like its missing a signal form the ign or immizer.

What's the model number of the one you bought? It looks like their install manuals are available on their website.

[hatch2008]

this is the by pass im useing and im using type 1 wire diagram.

[CTScott]

OK - I assume your remote starter uses the DBI port?

Does the LED stay solid green when starting?

[Yaris PAVEL94]

Does anybody know how the new apps for Viper remote starters work and how to set it up? Because I'm getting my new phone( BB Curve2)next week and I want to try it.THANKS

[CTScott]

Does anybody know how the new apps for Viper remote starters work and how to set it up? Because I'm getting my new phone( BB Curve2)next week and I want to try it.THANKS

The ones with the cell phone interface install just like the keyfob ones. The only issue with them is that there is a monthly subscription fee for hanging it on the cell network.

[hatch2008]

ya mine is using the dbi port

[hatch2008]

the led is doing the proper lighting when flashing , i spent like 7 hours on this yesterday and made sure all that ws good .

[CTScott]

ya mine is using the dbi port

OK - So that meant that you only had to wire it to the key transponder receiver.

Did the registration process go correctly (and is the module showing the green light)?

For your remote starter, what model is that?

If the remote starter didn't have a connection for key presence, the issue may be that the remote starter is telling the bypass module to send the key data at the wrong time.

[hatch2008]

its a prostart ct 3371 , and as far as i can tell there isnt a key sense connections jus the ign green, the white wire off the ign, the black starter wire. and the imm. hooks into the imm. connctor and obd connector .

[hatch2008]

im reading through the prostart again and notice inthe programming of the prostart im mode 3 the default is xpresskit, but my bypass is connected to the ads port , so i will try changing that becuase if that is inncorect then the prostart is looking in the wrong place for the by pass, so i could very well be an idiot today lol .. make sense too you

[hatch2008]

whats the differnece of the ign 1 wire and ign 2 wire on your diy

[hatch2008]

from what google has told me i need to have ign 1 and 2 connected to a relay which as far as i can tell my prostart instructions say is optinal, also when the car is cranking if i put the key in and to the on pos. it starts. anyone noe what i should do hear , or how the2 ign wires are suppose to be connected. starting to really hate prostart lol.

[CTScott]

from what google has told me i need to have ign 1 and 2 connected to a relay which as far as i can tell my prostart instructions say is optinal, also when the car is cranking if i put the key in and to the on pos. it starts. anyone noe what i should do hear , or how the2 ign wires are suppose to be connected. starting to really hate prostart lol.

If you put the key in, but don't turn it, what happens?

[CTScott]

The IG2 should be connected to the "5th relay output" and the jumper needs to be in the 2nd ignition output position.

[hatch2008]

ok so i did have everything connected correctly as i check it over 100 times lol , and i have found and fixed my problem, after finding all my wires connected properly and speaking to scott too assure i had them connected propery, thanks a milllion scott really appricate it, i decided to open up the prostart control unit and make sure nothing seemed out of place , what i found was that two of my pins for my bypass in the prostart unit where not even soldered to the circuit board. i exchanged the unit at my local store, plugged in the new one, programmed it and the remote start worked like a charm. jus thought i would post this incase some else has a similar problem, sometimes you may be doing it right but the brand new part is faulty. thanks again scott

[CTScott]

ok so i did have everything connected correctly as i check it over 100 times lol , and i have found and fixed my problem, after finding all my wires connected properly and speaking to scott too assure i had them connected propery, thanks a milllion scott really appricate it, i decided to open up the prostart control unit and make sure nothing seemed out of place , what i found was that two of my pins for my bypass in the prostart unit where not even soldered to the circuit board. i exchanged the unit at my local store, plugged in the new one, programmed it and the remote start worked like a charm. jus thought i would post this incase some else has a similar problem, sometimes you may be doing it right but the brand new part is faulty. thanks again scott

Wow! That was a good (bad) find. It is amazing how poor quality control is on so many products these days.

[Shinare]

Wow! That was a good (bad) find. It is amazing how poor quality control is on so many products these days.

Wow, was this thing made in the USA or something? :D


(I keeeed)

[samltd]

Hi,

I'm trying to install an Avital 4003 remote starter add-on module with a Fortin Key Override All transponder key bypass.

I need help to figure out how to connect the remote starter/transponder bypass to the wires shown by CTScott in his manual.
So far I identified Avital and Fortin Installation instructions to match CTScott's manual

Avital 4003
Primary harness (H1), 9-pin connector

H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM -
H1/2 GREEN/WHITE (-) FACTORY ALARM REARM -
H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) -
H1/4 WHITE/BLUE (+/-) ACTIVATION INPUT -
H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED - Available only when adding a receiver (P/N 543H) and remote (P/N 474L)
H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT - Available only when adding a receiver (P/N 543H) and remote (P/N 474L) - Horn in DIY manual
H1/7 RED/WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT - Available only when adding a receiver (P/N 543H) and remote (P/N 474L)
H1/8 Black (-) CHASSIS GROUND CONNECTION - Ground in DIY manual
H1/9 White (+/-) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT - (+) Factory configured - (+) Parking lights wire in DIY manual

4-pin satellite harness diagram

1 BLUE (-) STATUS OUTPUT - ?
2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT - ?
3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT - ?
4 PINK (-) IGNITION OUTPUT - ?

Heavy gauge

1 PINK (+) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT - Ignition #1 GREEN in DIY manual or #1 PINK as per post #35 Skylinecar1982
2 PURPLE (+) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT - Starter in DIY manual
3 ORANGE (+) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT - Accessory in DIY manual
4 & 6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT - They must be connected to a high current source. Since the factory supplies (+) 12V to the key switch that is used to operate the motor, it is recommended that these wires be connected there - (+) Battery Voltage in DIY manual ?
5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION - Ignition #2 PINK in DIY manual or #2 GREEN as per post #35

Remote start harness (H2), 5-pin connector

H2/1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT - ?
H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE - Tach signal in DIY manual
H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE - Brake switch in DIY manual
H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE - Hood Safety Switch in DIY manual
H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - ?


Fortin Key Override All

Purple/White RX Data In - RX in DIY manual
Yellow/Black RT Data Out - RT in DIY manual
Blue (-) While running - Remote starter in DIY manual ? Where to the remote starter?
Green Key Sense - Key Sense in DIY manual

Red +12V - (+) Battery Voltage
Black Ground - Ground


Thanks

[CTScott]

H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT - Available only when adding a receiver (P/N 543H) and remote (P/N 474L) - Horn in DIY manual

That seems strange, but it appears that to have the horn honk, you have to purchase the additional module. I would measure continuity between this pin and ground to see if that really is the case (it should jump from an open circuit to 0 ohms when the horn should honk).


1 PINK (+) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT - Ignition #1 GREEN in DIY manual or #1 PINK as per post #35 Skylinecar1982

Green has worked for most, but if for some reason yours is like his, where the IG1 and IG2 seem to be reversed, you can swap it. With most systems, the IG1 and IG2 relays are activated simultaneously.

5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION - Ignition #2 PINK in DIY manual or #2 GREEN as per post #35

As above.


4 & 6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT - They must be connected to a high current source. Since the factory supplies (+) 12V to the key switch that is used to operate the motor, it is recommended that these wires be connected there - (+) Battery Voltage in DIY manual ?

The battery power location noted in my PDF is correct for these two.


H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - ?
An optional output that can be used for various functions such as turning on the defogger.


Blue (-) While running - Remote starter in DIY manual ? Where to the remote starter?

Connect to the second status output (H2/5) and in the configuration mode, configure it for latched, rather than pulsed output.



Red +12V - (+) Battery Voltage
Black Ground - Ground

Connect to same power/ground points as the remote starter.

[samltd]

I see; thanks for making things clear.

It seems that the horn will wait.
Is there a possibility to connect the transponder key bypass to the other STATUS wire (4-pin satellite harness diagram/1 BLUE (-) STATUS OUTPUT)?
Then to program the remote module to start the rear defogger and the engine together? Or to connect the second STATUS wire to the defogger wire?
I would like to have the rear defogger working with the remote, when the heating is on during winter time.

Tx

[CTScott]

I see; thanks for making things clear.

It seems that the horn will wait.
Is there a possibility to connect the transponder key bypass to the other STATUS wire (4-pin satellite harness diagram/1 BLUE (-) STATUS OUTPUT)?
Then to program the remote module to start the rear defogger and the engine together? Or to connect the second STATUS wire to the defogger wire?
I would like to have the rear defogger working with the remote, when the heating is on during winter time.

Tx


Either should work. The defogger (-) wire is the black wire on the defogger switch, BTW.

[samltd]

Thanks, I have few more questions.

Running a wire behind the A/C panel to the switch, or better trying to find the wire's other end and to connect over there?
The neutral switch is necessary for an automatic?
Where the hood switch goes actually and where do I pass the wire from the remote start module to it?

Regards.

[CTScott]

Thanks, I have few more questions.

Running a wire behind the A/C panel to the switch, or better trying to find the wire's other end and to connect over there?
The neutral switch is necessary for an automatic?
Where the hood switch goes actually and where do I pass the wire from the remote start module to it?

Regards.

I would connect at the back of the AC panel, as that is easy to get to. The next to points are connector 1E (which is up high under the dash) and 4Q (which is buried under a cover on the back side of the under-dash fuse panel).

Autos do not need a neutral wire, since they will only start in neutral.

The hood switch (should you choose to install it) needs to mount where it will be pressed when the hood is closed. And, the base of it needs to be in contact with bare metal (or needs to have a ring terminal connection to a ground point). You can run a wire to it by going through the giant grommet that is up by where the steering column goes through the firewall.

[samltd]

Will do how you say :thumbup:
Thanks a lot.

[bad_bwoy007]

Hey CTScott,

I just got an Ultrastart 1280 and can't wait to install it this weekend. :w00t:

The manual:
http://www.ultrastarters.com/Feature_Sheets/80_Series/MAN-80-Series-INSTALL-REV-2008.pdf

Did you have to cut any wires in terms of connecting to the starter and ignition wires of the car?

I have a 2010 Liftback with no power or keyless entry.

:bow:
Thanks to this forum i was able to complete my cruise control addition which has been amazing seeing that I drive 100 miles roundtrip to work everyday.

So back to the autostart, I got some wiretaps for the rest of the connections that are needed but I am a little unsure about the starter part and the clutch bypass. :iono:

This will be the third alarm I install and the other two were alot easier (no autostart).

Let me know how you got yours hooked up so that when I actually start the job it won't turn into a whole day event. :cool:

Thanks :thumbsup:

[CTScott]

Hey CTScott,

I just got an Ultrastart 1280 and can't wait to install it this weekend. :w00t:

The manual:
http://www.ultrastarters.com/Feature_Sheets/80_Series/MAN-80-Series-INSTALL-REV-2008.pdf

Did you have to cut any wires in terms of connecting to the starter and ignition wires of the car?

I have a 2010 Liftback with no power or keyless entry.

:bow:
Thanks to this forum i was able to complete my cruise control addition which has been amazing seeing that I drive 100 miles roundtrip to work everyday.

So back to the autostart, I got some wiretaps for the rest of the connections that are needed but I am a little unsure about the starter part and the clutch bypass. :iono:

This will be the third alarm I install and the other two were alot easier (no autostart).

Let me know how you got yours hooked up so that when I actually start the job it won't turn into a whole day event. :cool:

Thanks :thumbsup:


I didn't cut any on mine - All connections were just taps. But, if you are going to hook-up the anti-grind, then that is the one place where you have to cut and insert the remote starter connections in between. I typically don't bother hooking up the anti-grind on my own cars.

For the clutch bypass, you will wire it as a "type 3" where the normally open relay contacts will be connected to the yellow and black wires on the clutch switch connector (so those are taps, rather than cuts).

[bad_bwoy007]

Thanks for the quick response. :w00t:

So is this how the relay should be hooked up?

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/bad_bwoy007/2010%20Yaris%20Liftback/Relay.jpg

If so, what would you use as you 12 volt pulse to activate the relay?

The Starter output?

PIN-1 YELLOW Starter Output-This wire will test 0V when the key is off, in the Accessory position and when
the Ignition is in the on position. The starter wire is 12volts during the start/ crank position only.

[CTScott]

Thanks for the quick response. :w00t:

So is this how the relay should be hooked up?

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/bad_bwoy007/2010%20Yaris%20Liftback/Relay.jpg

If so, what would you use as you 12 volt pulse to activate the relay?

The Starter output?

PIN-1 YELLOW Starter Output-This wire will test 0V when the key is off, in the Accessory position and when
the Ignition is in the on position. The starter wire is 12volts during the start/ crank position only.

Correct - The starter output wire should feed the relay coil.

[bad_bwoy007]

Thanks for all the help. You are the man. :thumbsup:

[bad_bwoy007]

CTScott,

Got so troubles here with the install.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee101/bad_bwoy007/2010%20Yaris%20Liftback/Diagram.png

I'm just doing a quick test to see if I could get the system to start.

I have the:
Yellow(Output to starter circuit) to Black(Yaris - Starter)
Green(Output to ACC circuit) to White(Yaris - ACC)
Red
Red
*Both Red wires tapped together then into the 12v fuse location.
White(2nd IGN) to Pink(Yaris - IGN#2)
Blue(IGN circuit) to Green(Yaris - IGN#1)

For now I am just pressing the clutch switch with my hand, will bypass it later.

Only thing I can think of is if my wiretaps didn't make solid connections. I did undo and redo some to verify there where connecting.

Currently I am simulating the system:
I have the system ground connected to ground.

On the 13 wire connection, I only need the Brake switch, park brake, and door input for now.

I also attempted the reservation mode to no avail.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION INSTALL MANUAL SYSTEM PROGRAMMING - Menu 1
RESERVATION MODE
Manual transmission remote starters must be set into Reservation Mode before the remote starter will activate. The activation type of Reservation Mode is determined when the system is installed.
Auto Reservation Mode (Default) 1- While the vehicle is running, place into neutral and apply the park brake.
2*- Press and release the brake pedal twice. The park lights will flash twice, the SIREN or HORN (opt.) will chirp twice and the doors will unlock (opt.). 3-Turn the ignition key off and the vehicle will continue running. 4**- Within 30 seconds, exit the vehicle and close all the doors. The vehicle will then shut off .
Manual Reservation Mode (Optional) 1- While the vehicle is running with the key, place transmission into neutral
and apply the park brake. 2- Press and release the START button. The park lights will flash twice, the SIREN or HORN (opt.) will chirp twice and the doors will unlock (opt.). 3- Turn the ignition key off and the vehicle will continue running. 4- Exit the vehicle and close all the doors. 5**- Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds, the vehicle will then shut off.
* If the park lights do not flash and stay on or the SIREN (HORN optional) chirps a third time, repeat Step 2. ** If the vehicle has dome light delay, the vehicle may stay running until the dome light turns off. This is normally no longer than 30 seconds.
**TEST RESERVATION MODE**
1) Press the start button on the remote without setting the Reservation Mode. The park lights should flash 4 times without starting the vehicle. If the vehicle starts THE WRONG REMOTE STARTER HAS BEEN INSTALLED!!!
2) Set the Reservation Mode then remote start the vehicle. Shut off with the remote wait 10 seconds then open the passenger door. Press Start on the remote and Reservation Mode should be cancelled. (4 flashes) if not, check for proper door pin connections.
*****FOR SAFETY REASONS ALL DOOR PINS INCLUDING THE REAR HATCH MUST BE CONNECTED.******

Any ideas?

[CTScott]

What does it do or not do?

[bad_bwoy007]

What does it do or not do?

Well I just spend 2 hours outside verifying some connections.

I am grounding the park brake connection for now and connecting the negative door input (when opened) to 12 volts to simulate doors closed.

Hood pin switch is not connect to anything and it's reading positive voltage so that is good.

For now i'm just pushing the clutch with my foot.

When i push the start button the park lights just flash 4 times. I tried to enter reservation mode but nothing happened after i pushed the brake pedal twice.

I checked the brake connection and it does read 12 volts into the unit so that connection is good.

All wires are still connected to the starter, acc, & ign as listed above.

:help:

[CTScott]

4 flashes means that it is not in reservation mode. Are you doing the procedure on page 29 to arm the starting?

[bad_bwoy007]

4 flashes means that it is not in reservation mode. Are you doing the procedure on page 29 to arm the starting?

Yes, I tried Auto reservation and when i pressed the brake pedal the lights did not flash.

I repeated again and got nothing.

[CTScott]

Yes, I tried Auto reservation and when i pressed the brake pedal the lights did not flash.

I repeated again and got nothing.

Maybe it needs to see the transition from e-brake off to e-brake on before pressing the brake pedal?

[bad_bwoy007]

Maybe it needs to see the transition from e-brake off to e-brake on before pressing the brake pedal?

Just tried that too, meaning disconnect from ground then reconnect. Still no luck.

[CTScott]

Just tried that too, meaning disconnect from ground then reconnect. Still no luck.

Since it needs to see it running, have you done the tach learning?

[bad_bwoy007]

Since it needs to see it running, have you done the tach learning?

Let me go hook that up now.

[bad_bwoy007]

Since it needs to see it running, have you done the tach learning?

Still nothing, not able to enter into reservation mode.

I'm really stumped, I tried both park brake wire grounded and the with the transition to ground.

I don't know what else could be causing the system not to advance into reservation mode.

[CTScott]

Still nothing, not able to enter into reservation mode.

I'm really stumped, I tried both park brake wire grounded and the with the transition to ground.

I don't know what else could be causing the system not to advance into reservation mode.

I would check the voltages on the connectors for the remote starter to make sure your taps are goof for the e-brake, brake, tach (because it is a pulsed signal it will read as a voltage somewhere between 0 and 12 with the engine running {but should not read 0 or 12}). One of those not being good seems to be the most likely reason why it's not going in.

[bad_bwoy007]

I would check the voltages on the connectors for the remote starter to make sure your taps are goof for the e-brake, brake, tach (because it is a pulsed signal it will read as a voltage somewhere between 0 and 12 with the engine running {but should not read 0 or 12}). One of those not being good seems to be the most likely reason why it's not going in.

OK, I will actually hook up the e-brake connection, it's just hard to reach the the running relay connector to get it in.

I will also test the voltages on the e-brake once connected.

I know the brake connection works and the tach read (+) voltage after start.

[bad_bwoy007]

:eek: After a long day I got it working.

Not sure what the issue was, but I was finally able to enter reservation mode and finally continue on to my power door lock conversion which went pretty smooth.

Thank for the help CTScott.

:thumbup:

[CTScott]

:eek: After a long day I got it working.

Not sure what the issue was, but I was finally able to enter reservation mode and finally continue on to my power door lock conversion which went pretty smooth.

Thank for the help CTScott.

:thumbup:

Very good.

The UltraStart units are definitely a bit more finicky to get going than others. When I installed mine I kept trying to start it before going through the config menus, and an hour later realized that there were certain parameters that had to be set before it would try to start. I would definitely install one again though. Two and a half years later, mine has been flawless.

[bad_bwoy007]

Very good.

The UltraStart units are definitely a bit more finicky to get going than others. When I installed mine I kept trying to start it before going through the config menus, and an hour later realized that there were certain parameters that had to be set before it would try to start. I would definitely install one again though. Two and a half years later, mine has been flawless.

Yea, the unit functions well and the remote I have is nice and small. Thinking about it now after the install, I could have gotten away with just install a regular automatic starter and not one specific to a manual trans because I don't park in gear.

But it def. is alot safer to make sure you never have any freak accidents.

:biggrin:

[bad_bwoy007]

Very good.

The UltraStart units are definitely a bit more finicky to get going than others. When I installed mine I kept trying to start it before going through the config menus, and an hour later realized that there were certain parameters that had to be set before it would try to start. I would definitely install one again though. Two and a half years later, mine has been flawless.

Yea, the unit functions well and the remote I have is nice and small. Thinking about it now after the install, I could have gotten away with just install a regular automatic starter and not one specific to a manual trans because I don't park in gear.

But it def. is alot safer to make sure you never have any freak accidents.

:biggrin:

[macky]

thank u ,ctscot ur d" man! this is my problem where can i find this illustration for my my toyota yaris (push start model) this is a sulution , many technician here in italy do not know how to installed remote starter . thanks a lot:biggrin:

[CTScott]

thank u ,ctscot ur d" man! this is my problem where can i find this illustration for my my toyota yaris (push start model) this is a sulution , many technician here in italy do not know how to installed remote starter . thanks a lot:biggrin:

I'll have to do a bit of research on that one. The biggest question is if any of the transponder key bypass modules can emulate the smart card used with the PTS system.

[macky]

hi scott iwould to online order of bypass( NEW DEI XK05 DATA TRANSPONDER OVERRIDE INTERFACE BYPASS )or (Xpresskit DBALL DATABUS DB-ALL COMBO BYPASS ) WHICH ONE WHO WORK THE BEST FOR MY YARIS MODEL 2006 PUSH START ENGINE . HERE in ITALY MY REMOTE STARTER IS (PROSTART- O34-O743-4 ) , MY YARIS HAVE A FACTORY MOBILIZER , IDONT know THAT THE U.S HAVE SAME MODEL 2006 PUSHSTART , BUT IS THE SAME OF VENZA PUSH START. WHICH ONE YOU RECOMENDED PLS, email irenel_it@yahoo.it

[devinlamothe]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but what type of wire taps did you use CTScott? Scotchlok? I'm wondering because the heavy gauge starter wires are a lot larger than what I've seen available.

[CTScott]

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but what type of wire taps did you use CTScott? Scotchlok? I'm wondering because the heavy gauge starter wires are a lot larger than what I've seen available.

Actually, all of the wires you will connect to on the Yaris are low current, "control" wires, rather than high current ones, which is what the remote starters are setup to handle, hence their giant size.

So, the issue is seriously mismatched wire sizes for the tap splices. Since the car side is the important side, I actually use the tap splices sized for the car's wires (which are the red ones {24-18 AWG}). When you crimp them onto the small gauge car wire and large gauge remote starter wires, some of the strands of the remote starter wire will get cut off, but what remains will be at least the same gauge as the car wire.

I do use the Scotchlok ones and find them to be better quality than many of the other brands.

[devinlamothe]

Actually, all of the wires you will connect to on the Yaris are low current, "control" wires, rather than high current ones, which is what the remote starters are setup to handle, hence their giant size.

So, the issue is seriously mismatched wire sizes for the tap splices. Since the car side is the important side, I actually use the tap splices sized for the car's wires (which are the red ones {24-18 AWG}). When you crimp them onto the small gauge car wire and large gauge remote starter wires, some of the strands of the remote starter wire will get cut off, but what remains will be at least the same gauge as the car wire.

I do use the Scotchlok ones and find them to be better quality than many of the other brands.

Thanks for the info Scott.

So I finally did get the Scotchlok connectors as well as my remote start but I am having some issues getting it going.

This is a Viper 4203v unit (Responder One):

Starter wires -> car wires

Pink Ignition -> Green ignition
Pink/White Secondary ignition -> Pink ignition
Purple Starter -> Black starter
Orange Accessory -> White accessory
Red 12v - 12v on fuse panel (top)
Red 12v - 12v on fuse panel (top)

Black/White Neutral Switch -> to ground
Violet/White Tach wire -> L.Green on OBD2
Brown brake -> Green brake +12
Grey hoodswitch -> not connected

Everything looks like it is connected properly, but it seems the unit will not turn on. I would think if the unit was powering up I would see the red LED come on for at least a second but it does not.

I have checked my connections with a multi-meter and everything looks good.

Is there something I am missing here? I have never installed a remote start before and reading through this thread made me think it was easy, lol.

[CTScott]

Thanks for the info Scott.

So I finally did get the Scotchlok connectors as well as my remote start but I am having some issues getting it going.

This is a Viper 4203v unit (Responder One):

Starter wires -> car wires

Pink Ignition -> Green ignition
Pink/White Secondary ignition -> Pink ignition
Purple Starter -> Black starter
Orange Accessory -> White accessory
Red 12v - 12v on fuse panel (top)
Red 12v - 12v on fuse panel (top)

Black/White Neutral Switch -> to ground
Violet/White Tach wire -> L.Green on OBD2
Brown brake -> Green brake +12
Grey hoodswitch -> not connected

Everything looks like it is connected properly, but it seems the unit will not turn on. I would think if the unit was powering up I would see the red LED come on for at least a second but it does not.

I have checked my connections with a multi-meter and everything looks good.

Is there something I am missing here? I have never installed a remote start before and reading through this thread made me think it was easy, lol.


I don't have the manual for the 4203v, but what you are connected to looks good. Check the install manual for a start-up or configuration process that may have to be done before it will work.

[devinlamothe]

I don't have the manual for the 4203v, but what you are connected to looks good. Check the install manual for a start-up or configuration process that may have to be done before it will work.

The only thing I can see that I didn't do is the 'tach learning' ... I'm going to try that and see if it works.

[devinlamothe]

The only thing I can see that I didn't do is the 'tach learning' ... I'm going to try that and see if it works.

OK tried that still nothing.

I am wondering if the hood safety switch needs to be connected to ground for the unit to operate. They don't really explain in the manual except saying it NEEDS to be connected (I've read you don't have to connect it but I guess it's worth a try).

[CTScott]

OK tried that still nothing.

I am wondering if the hood safety switch needs to be connected to ground for the unit to operate. They don't really explain in the manual except saying it NEEDS to be connected (I've read you don't have to connect it but I guess it's worth a try).

The hood pins ground when the hood is open, so you leave them floating (i.e. not connected) to bypass.

[NHYarisFan]

Hi everyone this is my first post in a long time >:D i'm getting ready to install the ultrastart u4296m next week while i'm on vacation! my only question is about the clutch. will i have to bypass the switch to remote start, if so how do i. thanks yarisworld and Scott for all the great information.

*Update*
Hi everyone well i was a fool. Looks like i missed the clutch relay pic in post #118 first time around lol got a relay and everything works awesome. Thanks again YW!! i love this site

[devinlamothe]

The hood pins ground when the hood is open, so you leave them floating (i.e. not connected) to bypass.

Alright well that eliminates that.

I'm going to verify my ground point ... that's the only other thing I can think of.

[CTScott]

Alright well that eliminates that.

I'm going to verify my ground point ... that's the only other thing I can think of.

Unplug the power connector from the remote starter and measure the voltage between the ground pin and the constant power pins. That will verify exactly what the unit is getting.

[devinlamothe]

Unplug the power connector from the remote starter and measure the voltage between the ground pin and the constant power pins. That will verify exactly what the unit is getting.

OK ground is fine. I was able to get the shutdown code and it says "Transmitter shutdown (or push button)" (the LED on the unit flashes 4 times).

Car isn't even attempting to crank at all and remote errors out. I really wish these car starters had an LCD display, lol

[CTScott]

OK ground is fine. I was able to get the shutdown code and it says "Transmitter shutdown (or push button)" (the LED on the unit flashes 4 times).

Car isn't even attempting to crank at all and remote errors out. I really wish these car starters had an LCD display, lol

So that means that it thinks that you are either hitting the button on the remote a second time to kill it, or the valet mode is activated. Go through the procedure to turn valet mode off.

[yarisyeti]

Is it better to solder or tap into the wires?

Does either void the warranty?

Thanks!

[CTScott]

Is it better to solder or tap into the wires?

Does either void the warranty?

Thanks!

Nothing voids the warranty unless what you do leads to failure of it or something else.

Soldering typically is better, but wire taps work fine and can be a bit safer to work with under the dash. I have used wire taps on the last 4 of my cars that I installed remote starters on and have driven 100K+ without an single issue.

[yarisyeti]

Next question. I am adding electric windows to my bone stock yaris. I am using a Prestige APS787C and it says it can roll windows up and down.

On this site: http://voxrightnow.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/8773/~/operating-instructions-for-aps787-remote-start-system It says I can use channel 4 and 5 to do this, my question is, can I just hook the wires for channel 4 and 5 to the power and ground of the window, or do I need to hook up relays?

If I have to hook up relays, how will I wire them?

Here is my install manual as well! http://www.clubgpstore.com/art/aps787_IM.pdf

Thanks a million!!

do i use this relay:http://www.automotiverewire.com/Navagation/spdtrelayswindows.htm

[CTScott]

Next question. I am adding electric windows to my bone stock yaris. I am using a Prestige APS787C and it says it can roll windows up and down.

On this site: http://voxrightnow.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/8773/~/operating-instructions-for-aps787-remote-start-system It says I can use channel 4 and 5 to do this, my question is, can I just hook the wires for channel 4 and 5 to the power and ground of the window, or do I need to hook up relays?

If I have to hook up relays, how will I wire them?

Here is my install manual as well! http://www.clubgpstore.com/art/aps787_IM.pdf

Thanks a million!!

do i use this relay:http://www.automotiverewire.com/Navagation/spdtrelayswindows.htm

For the remote window closure you need an auto window closer device, like the DEI 530T. The aux output of the remote starter would become an input to the 530T to tell it to crank up the windows (or with another output, down as well for airing it out in the hot weather).

[yarisyeti]

could I use a 529T?

[yarisyeti]

Can I use a 529T?

[CTScott]

Can I use a 529T?

Yes. The 529T just gives you one direction, whereas the 530T gives you both.

[yarisyeti]

wouldn't hooking up a relay like thishttp://www.automotiverewire.com/Navagation/spdtrelayswindows.htm work just the same?

[CTScott]

wouldn't hooking up a relay like thishttp://www.automotiverewire.com/Navagation/spdtrelayswindows.htm work just the same?

Yes, although the relays will stay energized as long as the output channel is on, whereas the 529T or 530T has some intelligence to turn its relays off. The problem with leaving them energized is that if you trigger the output channel after turning the car off, and then leave the car parked for a day or so, you may come back to a dead battery.

[mirapatec]

@ CTScott - Thanks for sharing all this information with other Yaris owners.

[pat005]

Sorry to be "that guy" but I seem to be struggling with something I feel isn't very complicated but don't want to mess it up. Here's mine https://plus.google.com/photos/115588716703715753247/albums/5842466457087430177/5842466459230560658 but I can't find https://plus.google.com/photos/115588716703715753247/albums/5842466988681874529/5842466989276540882 from the DIY I can't seem to find anything that looks remotely similar with the two black and two pick wires. Oh yeah, 2008 HB Yaris. Thanks
https://plus.google.com/photos/115588716703715753247/albums/5842466988681874529
Link to the two photos

[CTScott]

Sorry to be "that guy" but I seem to be struggling with something I feel isn't very complicated but don't want to mess it up. Here's mine https://plus.google.com/photos/115588716703715753247/albums/5842466457087430177/5842466459230560658 but I can't find https://plus.google.com/photos/115588716703715753247/albums/5842466988681874529/5842466989276540882 from the DIY I can't seem to find anything that looks remotely similar with the two black and two pick wires. Oh yeah, 2008 HB Yaris. Thanks
https://plus.google.com/photos/115588716703715753247/albums/5842466988681874529
Link to the two photos




You are about a foot to the left of where that connector in my picture is. It is the ignition switch connector, which is located at the base of the ignition switch, on the right side of the steering column.

[WestCoast]

Thank you so much CTScott,
My 2007 auto transmission Yaris is a 5 door hatch back without keyless entry, manual windows, but have a button to lock and unlock the door. Does it need a keypass or not?
Thank you again,

[CTScott]

Thank you so much CTScott,
My 2007 auto transmission Yaris is a 5 door hatch back without keyless entry, manual windows, but have a button to lock and unlock the door. Does it need a keypass or not?
Thank you again,

Most likely not with an 07, but you can tell by looking at the ignition switch. If it is all metal then no, if the part that rotates is metal and the part that surrounds it is black plastic, then yes.

[WestCoast]

Thank you so much for your reply so quickly. My ignition switch doesn't have the black plastic surround it. So should be don't need the keypass.
My remote starter is Firstech CM6200. I connected the CN1(Accessory, Starter, Ignition, Ground, Constant 12V, 12 Parklning light output), and CN4(Unlock Output, Lock Output).
But didn't connect the CN2, which are (Output to Starter-kill), Hood Pin Input, .... etc.)
Because I don't know where to find these cables in your diy chart. Any advices for me?

[WestCoast]

Actually, my CN2 details as below:
(-) 250mA Output to Starter-Kill Blue 1
(-) Parking Light Reminder Orange/Black 2
(-) 250mA 2nd Parking Light Output(POC #1) Green/White 3
(-) Emergency Brake Input Light Blue 4
(-) 250mA 2nd Starter Output (POC #2) Red/Black 5
(+) Foot Brake Input Light Blue/White 6
(-) 250mA 2nd Ignition Output (POC #3) Green 7
(-) Trunk Trigger Input Violet/Black 8
(-) 250mA 2nd Accessory Output (POC #4) White/Black 9
(+/-) Door Trigger Input Red/White 10
(-) 250mA Status Out(GWR) (POC #5) Black 11
(+/-) Key Sense/Glow Plug Input Brown/White 12
(-) 250mA Rearm Output (POC #6) Orange 13
(-) Slave/Timer Start input Pink 14
(-) 250mA Disarm Output (POC #7) Orange/White 15
Engine Sensing Input (Alt./Tach/Battery) Yellow/Black 16
(-) 250mA Horn Output (POC #8) White 17
(-) Hood Pin Input Gray/Black 18
(-) 250mA Aux1 Output (POC #9) Violet 19
(+) 12V Output to Siren Brown 20

I only need remote start my car, and remote lock and unlock my car, do I need connect all of these cables or just some of them. It's really hard for me to find the right connecting place.

[CTScott]

Starter kill is an optional one that requires an extra relay and is documented in your remote starter's manual. You end up cutting the black starter wires on the ignition switch connector and connecting the relay in between.

Parking light output, foot brake, 2nd Ignition output, and Tach input are all in my guide.

The hood pin will be documented in your manual, as it is simply a pin switch that requires you to drill a hole to mount under the hood. It doesn't get connected to any of the car's wires.

[WestCoast]

Hi CTScott, I have tested my +12V parking light(green pin 29), but the meter read is 0, and the -12V parking light(white pin 13) is 12V. What I can do?
My CM6200 need input is +12V.
Thanks in advance,

[CTScott]

Hi CTScott, I have tested my +12V parking light(green pin 29), but the meter read is 0, and the -12V parking light(white pin 13) is 12V. What I can do?
My CM6200 need input is +12V.
Thanks in advance,

Parking light is not an input, it is an output, so your device will output +12V to pin 29 to flash the lights.

[WestCoast]

Good to know, and where is the Emergency Brake pin in my 2007 auto transmission yaris?

[CTScott]

Good to know, and where is the Emergency Brake pin in my 2007 auto transmission yaris?

The yellow wire at the base of the ebrake lever or the yellow wire in pin 4C-2. The ebrake is typically not required for remote starters, except for with manual trans.

[WestCoast]

Do my auto trans car still don't need the Door Trigger input for my remote start?

[CTScott]

Do my auto trans car still don't need the Door Trigger input for my remote start?

Check the manual for your remote starter. Most do not require that, as they can be used with cars with manual locks.

[WestCoast]

Where to output my (+) 12V Siren if i my car don't have the arm system?

[CTScott]

Where to output my (+) 12V Siren if i my car don't have the arm system?

Unless you are adding a siren you won't need to connect that.

[WestCoast]

My CM6200 said I need cut the green loop wire inside the brain module, but I can't find it, where is my green loop wire?

[CTScott]

My CM6200 said I need cut the green loop wire inside the brain module, but I can't find it, where is my green loop wire?

It is inside of the remote starter, not a wire on the car.

[WestCoast]

Thank you so much CTScott, I found it after I opened the CM6200 module.
Now, the wires have been connected, and I have tried to lock and unlock the door, works great.
When the car was running after I take off the key, I still can use remote start to shut it off. But the weird thing is, after I push the remote start button to start my car, the car just flash twice, then nothing happen, however the car will immediately start after I plug in the key without turn the key(just in the lock position even not in the ACCE or ON position).

[CTScott]

Thank you so much CTScott, I found it after I opened the CM6200 module.
Now, the wires have been connected, and I have tried to lock and unlock the door, works great.
When the car was running after I take off the key, I still can use remote start to shut it off. But the weird thing is, after I push the remote start button to start my car, the car just flash twice, then nothing happen, however the car will immediately start after I plug in the key without turn the key(just in the lock position even not in the ACCE or ON position).

I have only installed a remote starter on a Yaris which has the engine immobilizer and therefor required the key bypass module. It sounds like even though yours does not have the immobilizer that the ECM wants to see the "unlock warning switch". It is a 2 pin connector on the ignition switch with a yellow and a white/black wire. As a quick test, just jump the yellow to the white/black by shoving a piece of wire in the back of the connector. If it remote starts with that jumped, then you will need to hook the yellow wire to the start #2 output of the remote starter.

[WestCoast]

You are the amazing man CTScott, I never done this before, but every thing works great now.

[CTScott]

You are the amazing man CTScott, I never done this before, but every thing works great now.

Nice! I am glad to hear it is done and working.

[Nadial]

Parking light is not an input, it is an output, so your device will output +12V to pin 29 to flash the lights.


Hi guys,


First off, great forum, I have searched for a couple of days and found all the wires (even how to wire throught the firewall :clap:) for my DIY alarm install on my 09 two door hatchback, or so I thought.

Surely this is a noob question, but I cannot get the parking lights to flash. My sp-101 manual depicts two (white) 12v flashing light outputs (7.5 amp x 2).

I have tried:

Connecting one white wire to pin 13, parking light (-), on the 13-pin plug by the headlight switch without success

Connecting one white wire to pin 29 (green wire), parking light (+), on 30-pin plug 4A in the dash fuse box without success.

I have tried alternating the two white wires in both positions as well.

It might bear mentioning the the the 12v power input is connected to the gray wire, pin 5, on the 8 pin plug by the ignition swith. Which is supposed to be constant 12v.

Thanks in advance

[CTScott]

Hi guys,


First off, great forum, I have searched for a couple of days and found all the wires (even how to wire throught the firewall :clap:) for my DIY alarm install on my 09 two door hatchback, or so I thought.

Surely this is a noob question, but I cannot get the parking lights to flash. My sp-101 manual depicts two (white) 12v flashing light outputs (7.5 amp x 2).

I have tried:

Connecting one white wire to pin 13, parking light (-), on the 13-pin plug by the headlight switch without success

Connecting one white wire to pin 29 (green wire), parking light (+), on 30-pin plug 4A in the dash fuse box without success.

I have tried alternating the two white wires in both positions as well.

It might bear mentioning the the the 12v power input is connected to the gray wire, pin 5, on the 8 pin plug by the ignition swith. Which is supposed to be constant 12v.

Thanks in advance

If you have a green wire in your headlight switch connector, in place of one of the white/black wires, then you would have to use the Pin 29 + connection, instead of the pin 13 white connection.

Check the 10A TAIL and 7.5A PANEL2 fuses in the fuse panel that is under to bottom of the dash to see if you popped one of those fuses. If you connected to - output to pin 29 you would pop it.

[Nadial]

The 10A tail is fine, there is no panel 2, only a 7.5A panel 1 beside the 10A tail, and it is fine.

This is what I have for the headlight switch connector


http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/2011_yaris_parking_light.jpg

Sorry I had to use a picture from another forum, best I could do in short notice.

I tested the connection for continuity.

The one thing I noticed is that the left front parking light (inside the headlight assembly) is burned out.


Thanks

[CTScott]

The 10A tail is fine, there is no panel 2, only a 7.5A panel 1 beside the 10A tail, and it is fine.

This is what I have for the headlight switch connector


http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/2011_yaris_parking_light.jpg

Sorry I had to use a picture from another forum, best I could do in short notice.

I tested the connection for continuity.

The one thing I noticed is that the left front parking light (inside the headlight assembly) is burned out.


Thanks

OK. In that case, if you simply jump the white wire to one of the white/black wires (you can use a paper clip or piece of wire to do so, you should see the tail lights come on). This would do the same thing as the parking light - output on the remote starter.

If you do, then something is not configured correctly with the remote starter or the connection to that wire is not good.

[Nadial]

Jumped the wires and the tail lights came on. Made sure the connection between the alarm and the white wire on the plug is fine. Reset defaults on the alarm as well, no luck.


I am out of ideas. Maybe just live without the lights flashing.

[CTScott]

Jumped the wires and the tail lights came on. Made sure the connection between the alarm and the white wire on the plug is fine. Reset defaults on the alarm as well, no luck.


I am out of ideas. Maybe just live without the lights flashing.

It sounds like that output is bad on the remote starter.

[Nadial]

Unfortunately I think you are correct. I've already got the alarm wired, maybe the guy I bought it from will give me just a new module, because I don't want to undo everything I have done.

Thanks again for your efforts CTScott :thumbsup:

[eseibel67]

I am trying to install Avital 4003 so I can use the existing factory remote lock signal as a trigger on an 07 Yaris Sedan.

On connector GD1, there is a brown wire on pin #5, and there is also a brown wire on pin #7. Turns out that the brown wire on pin #7 is the negative (-)lock pulse.

[eseibel67]

I was wrong on post above. The negative pulse on connection above does not have enough juice to trip the remote starter signal.

Instead, I used the passenger unlock (+) pulse and inverted it with a relay to give the remote starter the (-) trigger signal it wants. This wire is located at connector 4H, the pink wire at pin #18.

[chadcox82]

New to the forum but joined specifically because of this thread. I am thinking about installing a remote start on my girlfriends 2007 yaris with power locks but no factory keyless entry. Any suggestions for a simple, reliable yet relatively inexpensive remote start/keyless entry? I was looking at the VIPER 4105V, Are there any other systems you would suggest?

[CTScott]

New to the forum but joined specifically because of this thread. I am thinking about installing a remote start on my girlfriends 2007 yaris with power locks but no factory keyless entry. Any suggestions for a simple, reliable yet relatively inexpensive remote start/keyless entry? I was looking at the VIPER 4105V, Are there any other systems you would suggest?

That viper would be a good choice. I am still very happy with the UltraStart that I installed on my 09, back when I got it in October of 2008. I have not had a single issue with it in the 5 years that is has been on there and the range if awesome compared to Avital that I installed on my 08.

[JoeVR]

Hi Scott,

Thank you so much for this great page. I have a 2008 Yaris with power locks but no remote. I would really like to put a remote start and lock/unlock. I don't really need an alarm for it.

I was looking at the suggested models in your document from a few years ago, and I have found most of them are discontinued.

Can you suggest an updated model that would do remote start & lock/unlock that would work on my 2008 Yaris?

Thanks! I really appreciate any helpful suggestions you may provide.

[CTScott]

Hi Scott,

Thank you so much for this great page. I have a 2008 Yaris with power locks but no remote. I would really like to put a remote start and lock/unlock. I don't really need an alarm for it.

I was looking at the suggested models in your document from a few years ago, and I have found most of them are discontinued.

Can you suggest an updated model that would do remote start & lock/unlock that would work on my 2008 Yaris?

Thanks! I really appreciate any helpful suggestions you may provide.

I just picked up an Ultra Start 1272 XR Pro off ebay for the 2007 I am currently rebuilding for a buddy of mine. $47 is a great deal for it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261152420077?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[JoeVR]

Thanks so much!

I just ordered one.

[racefear]

Need to find my last wire, please help : door trigger input pin wire(wich monitors all the door)
Connector 4A ??? Wich pin ?

Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38498&d=1290435875

Tanks

[CTScott]

Need to find my last wire, please help : door trigger input pin wire(wich monitors all the door)
Connector 4A ??? Wich pin ?



http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38498&d=1290435875

Tanks

The Yaris does not have a single door trigger monitor for all doors.

You could either use the pink wire for the dome, or connect a diode to each door wire with the white stripe on the diode pointing away from the wires and connect all of the white stripe ends together and to the door trigger input.

[racefear]

ok tanks, for the pink dome wire, did you mean the pin 4 on the 4a connector ?

I don't have the best wirring diagram sheet... :iono:

Tanks

[CTScott]

ok tanks, for the pink dome wire, did you mean the pin 4 on the 4a connector ?

I don't have the best wirring diagram sheet... :iono:

Tanks

No. The pink one in 4K (the upper left connector in this picture):

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=27159&d=1250041800

[racefear]

Hello all
A neutral safety switch must be install on a manual yaris, optional ? or the sequence of steps to be performed before exiting the car is ok...

What are the other step to do for the manual tranny like put the starter wire of the 'module' to the black wire of the clutch that is not show on the
Yaris 2006+ Remote Start Wiring Guide.pdf ??

In your Yaris 2006+ Remote Start Wiring Guide.pdf, I think the wire color you said for Doors Unlock (-pulse) is not green pin 8 but orange pin 6.
I have a toyota door lock key without bypass. Need to wire somethings for the FACTORY ALARM ?

Almost done but the car don't start after the ready mode procedures ! :help:
Tanks

[CTScott]

Hello all
A neutral safety switch must be install on a manual yaris, optional ? or the sequence of steps to be performed before exiting the car is ok...

What are the other step to do for the manual tranny like put the starter wire of the 'module' to the black wire of the clutch that is not show on the
Yaris 2006+ Remote Start Wiring Guide.pdf ??

In your Yaris 2006+ Remote Start Wiring Guide.pdf, I think the wire color you said for Doors Unlock (-pulse) is not green pin 8 but orange pin 6.
I have a toyota door lock key without bypass. Need to wire somethings for the FACTORY ALARM ?

Almost done but the car don't start after the ready mode procedures ! :help:
Tanks

A neutral safety switch is a difficult thing to create for a vehicle that does not have one. If you have a remote starter that is designed for use with a manual, and it has one of those arming procedures, then that is fine. If you have one that only has the neutral safety switch input, then you really should figure out a way to add one.

On a manual you would need a bypass for the clutch switch. You would need to feed +12 volts to the black wire to bypass the clutch switch.

The wire that I show for the - unlock is correct, as that is what I have used on quite a few installations. If you use the one that you mentioned it confuses the body ECU and if you use the inside lock switch, once you get out of the car the key fob will not lock the doors.

The - unlock green wire in pin 8 is also the one that will disarm the factory alarm, as the theft deterrent ECU sees it as someone unlocking the door with the key.

[racefear]

Is this the good connection for the bypass ??

http://i57.servimg.com/u/f57/18/71/31/82/clutch12.jpg

All connection checked and good(Pro Start model), why that does'nt work ? :bonk:
Manual tranny yaris 2006 with toyota key door lock without bypass module

- Ignition = green, pin 1
- +12 V 25A = yellow, pin 4
- Accessories = blanc, pin 2
- Starter(purple) = black starter wires on the ignition switch connector, pin7 Relay not necessary after test
- 5e Relais = ignition 2 = pink, pin 6
- +12 V 15A = gray, pin 5
____________
- Ground - = chassis ground
- Tach = data link connector = lt green, pin 9
- Hood Switch - = 'In Box'
- Brake Switch + = green, pin1
- Parking Light + = green, pin 29
______

- Horn - = black, pin 8
_______
- Neg Door Input - = Dome light, pin 2 Change to door switch(red & blue 'floor wire') wire does not work on Dome for me
- Parking Brakes Input - = lt green, pin 11
- Unlock - = brown, pin 5
- Lock - = Green, pin 8

Wiring Shematic CT-3271 (http://www.prostartsystems.com/Docs/CT_3271_uni_wd_h51s42.pdf)

the car don't start after the ready mode procedures ! Work good now, post UPDATED
Tanks

[CTScott]

If I am seeing that correctly, the "bypass" connection really doesn't do anything as wired.

You will need to connect the yellow "starter" wire of the remote starter directly to both the black starter wires on the ignition switch connector and to the black wire on the clutch switch.

[racefear]

If I am seeing that correctly, the "bypass" connection really doesn't do anything as wired.

You will need to connect the yellow "starter" wire of the remote starter directly to both the black starter wires on the ignition switch connector and to the black wire on the clutch switch.

Did you mean purple `starter' wire of the prostart remote starter ?
Seems to be clear for you... I updated post 202(Relay part), can you take a look please, mod the pic, this can help me and futur user...
Some guys use 1N4004 diode betwen 85 - 86 for protection, usefull ?

Tanks for your time

[CTScott]

Did you mean purple `starter' wire of the prostart remote starter ?
Seems to be clear for you... I updated post 202(Relay part), can you take a look please, mod the pic, this can help me and futur user...
Some guys use 1N4004 diode betwen 85 - 86 for protection, usefull ?

Tanks for your time

Correct on the purple. The diagram corrections that you made are good now.

The diode won't hurt anything, but in this case where you are only switching power to another relay coil, it really is not necessary.

[xiaoya]

Hello CTScott,

Thank you very much for making this nice wiring guide for remote start installation.

I am trying to install a NITRO BMWX-2 way remote start into my wife's 2008 Yaris automatic base model. Meantime, I am installing an aftermarket keyless entry module to control 4 doors.

I went through connections you listed in the wiring guide. Comparing to the wiring manual, I have several questions want to ask you. Please see attached pic for corresponding numbers:

0 in User manual, is it ground in your Wiring Guide?

1 and 8 in User manual, should I connect 1 to the "+" connections you used in installing heating pad (I followed your guide and the pads work beautifully) and connect 8 to " + battery Voltage under sash fuse panel - unused fuse location"?

2 light flash output, I noticed in your wiring guide there are D4P13 for "- pulse" and 4AP29 for "+ pulse". It seems this remote start can do either of them but default with "+ pulse". Is "- pulse" better than "+ pulse"? Any suggestion on this, I read from User manual that I can configue an internal jumper to change between "-" and "+" but I couldn't find the jumper in remote start.

3 Siren output. I am not planning to install siren, should I connect this wire to Horn at D3P8 as suggested in your wiring guide?

4 Trunk release output. I bought an actuator for trunk. How should I determine whether I need a relay and if I need one what kind should I get?

5 Dome light supervision output, it is a nice feature.Is it difficult to achieve?

6 Second Unlock (passenger unlock), I am going to install an aftermarket keyless entry module for 4 doors so I am assume this (press unlock once- open driver door, press twice - open all doors) will be covered by keyless entry module once I connect it with lock and unlock wires of remote start . Do I still need to work on this wire?

7 Ground-when-armed output to starter killer. The user manual looks very complex on this one. Do I need to install this?

8 As mentioned in 1, this remote asks for 2 "+" connections.

9 and 11, my understanding is that 9 is for standard car (my wife's 2008 Yaris is an automatic). 11 is the connection of "Brake Switch" you mentioned as A13P1. Am I correct on this?

10 Bypass Output when remote start, this yaris has no engine immobilizer (checked by using your pictures). So I can just cap this wire, right?

11 brake pedal input, as mentioned in 9. This is the one I should use to follow your wiring guide, right?

12 (+) Ignition of key cylinder (key on) input, in user manual for the key cylinder area the ING1 and ING2 matches Connections D8P1 and D8P6 listed in your wiring guide. Here it asks for a + ignition input again. Do I need this for any good?

13 and 14 Door trigger input. I guess these are for the security reason. Are these difficult to achieve?

My last question is that should I install the keyless entry module with actuators and test them out before installing remote start? For keyless entry, can I also use the "+" connections you used in installing heating pad? I remember that you mentioned in one of the post that + connection is capable to hold up 4 pads and remote start.

Sorry for so many questions. Really appreciate for your information shared with us. best

Xiaoya

[camry09]

Good evening CTScott

Trying to install Valet 561T in 2010 Prius Sedan AT with Factory Alarm

I think i figured out the most of the things except for few

On the 4 Pin Satellate Harness there are few wires that aren't clear for me where to connect

1. Accessory Trigger ( does it go to Conn 8 Pin 2 White wire)
2. Wire 3 Starter Trigger ( does that go to Conn D8 Pin 7 )

And another thing

Heavy Gauge Relay Sattelite

1. Wire 2 Purple do i tap in to D8 Pin 7 Black starter wires ?
2. Wire 3 Orange do i tap in to D8 Pin 2 White Accesory wire?

thank you

http://imageshack.com/a/img674/9913/29Izxy.jpg

[CTScott]

Good evening CTScott

Trying to install Valet 561T in 2010 Prius Sedan AT with Factory Alarm

I think i figured out the most of the things except for few

On the 4 Pin Satellate Harness there are few wires that aren't clear for me where to connect

1. Accessory Trigger ( does it go to Conn 8 Pin 2 White wire)
2. Wire 3 Starter Trigger ( does that go to Conn D8 Pin 7 )

And another thing

Heavy Gauge Relay Sattelite

1. Wire 2 Purple do i tap in to D8 Pin 7 Black starter wires ?
2. Wire 3 Orange do i tap in to D8 Pin 2 White Accesory wire?

thank you

You would need to post the pages of the 561 manual that describe the wires in question. I wouldn't know off the top of my head.

[camry09]

Repost, sorry

[camry09]

Repost as well

[camry09]

For some reason my Posts are being removed

but here is a URL

http://imageshack.com/a/img674/9913/29Izxy.jpg

[camry09]

Can't seem to post an image with an url here, posts are being deleted

Sent you a PM

Thank you

[CTScott]

Can't seem to post an image with an url here, posts are being deleted

Sent you a PM

Thank you

OK. I got the link to the document.

Your original questions were:

Trying to install Valet 561T in 2011 Prius Sedan AT with Factory Alarm

I think i figured out the most of the things except for few

On the 4 Pin Satellate Harness there are few wires that aren't clear for me where to connect

1. Accessory Trigger ( does it go to Conn 8 Pin 2 White wire)
2. Wire 3 Starter Trigger ( does that go to Conn D8 Pin 7 )

And another thing

Heavy Gauge Relay Sattelite

1. Wire 2 Purple do i tap in to D8 Pin 7 Black starter wires ?
2. Wire 3 Orange do i tap in to D8 Pin 2 White Accesory wire?


Accessory and starter trigger on 4 pin satellite are not needed.


On the heavy gauge one:

1. To Ignition 1 on the ignition switch connector.
2. To both black wires on the ignition switch connector.
3. To Accessory wire on the ignition switch connector.
4. To power feed on fuse panel
5. To Ignition 2 on the ignition switch connector. (You will also have to go through the configuration of the remote starter to select ignition, rather than starter function.
6. To power feed on fuse panel

[camry09]

Got it, thank you very much that actually clears up a lot of things

Going to bug you a bit more, on the Primary Harness
H1/1 Factory Disarm - is it necessary on Yaris?

Reason why i ask is i am planning on using H1/4 (-) Activation Input since Door Lock and Unlock are Both (-) on the Yaris

Am i on the right track for this?

thx again

[CTScott]

Got it, thank you very much that actually clears up a lot of things

Going to bug you a bit more, on the Primary Harness
H1/1 Factory Disarm - is it necessary on Yaris?

Reason why i ask is i am planning on using H1/4 (-) Activation Input since Door Lock and Unlock are Both (-) on the Yaris

Am i on the right track for this?

thx again


The Yaris doesn't have a direct disarm wire to connect to.

The activation input sounds fine.

[camry09]

Appreciate all the help

So in theory even if the car is Locked by sending Activation Pulse should technically start the car, one way to find out ill be doing that in the AM first thing

[camry09]

So no juice for me today unfortunately

The Valet 561T that i connected seems to be getting power because Tach Learning Procedure worked well

However the remote start doesn't work at all not even getting the ignition lights - the error that i get is Flashing LEd 7 times which according to Troubleshoot means the following

Seven (-) Neutral safety shutdown (H2/6 BLACK/WHITE)

I do have this wire connected to Key Sense - am i on the right track here ?

Thank you

[CTScott]

So no juice for me today unfortunately

The Valet 561T that i connected seems to be getting power because Tach Learning Procedure worked well

However the remote start doesn't work at all not even getting the ignition lights - the error that i get is Flashing LEd 7 times which according to Troubleshoot means the following

Seven (-) Neutral safety shutdown (H2/6 BLACK/WHITE)

I don have this wire connected to Key Sense - am i on the right track here ?

Thank you

Sounds like you didn't switch the default mode from standard transmission to auto.

[camry09]

Alright maybe im missing something, but so far this is the only thing that ive found

IMPORTANT! This product is designed for fuel-injected, automatic transmission vehicles only.Installing it in a standard transmission vehicle is dangerous and is contrary to its intended use.

Thank also this part

Connect this wire to the toggle (override) switch as shown in Figure A. Connect the other wire from the toggle switch
to the PARK/NEUTRAL switch in the vehicle. This wire will test with ground with the gear selector either in PARK or
NEUTRAL. This will prevent the vehicle from accidentally being started while in a drive gear. This input MUST rest at ground
in order for the remote start system to operate. Connected properly the vehicle will only start while in PARK or NEUTRAL.
In some vehicles, the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch activates a factory starter lock-out that will not allow the
starter to operate in a drive gear. In these vehicles, connect this wire to the toggle switch as shown in Figure B.
Connect the other wire from the toggle switch to chassis ground.

Do i just ground this wire and call it a day?

From guys that did this install on AT can you please point me on the right track

thank you

[CTScott]

Alright maybe im missing something, but so far this is the only thing that ive found

IMPORTANT! This product is designed for fuel-injected, automatic transmission vehicles only.Installing it in a standard transmission vehicle is dangerous and is contrary to its intended use.

Thank also this part

Connect this wire to the toggle (override) switch as shown in Figure A. Connect the other wire from the toggle switch
to the PARK/NEUTRAL switch in the vehicle. This wire will test with ground with the gear selector either in PARK or
NEUTRAL. This will prevent the vehicle from accidentally being started while in a drive gear. This input MUST rest at ground
in order for the remote start system to operate. Connected properly the vehicle will only start while in PARK or NEUTRAL.
In some vehicles, the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch activates a factory starter lock-out that will not allow the
starter to operate in a drive gear. In these vehicles, connect this wire to the toggle switch as shown in Figure B.
Connect the other wire from the toggle switch to chassis ground.

Do i just ground this wire and call it a day?

From guys that did this install on AT can you please point me on the right track

thank you


Looking at the configuration guide where you can get into the menus and change different settings, it looks like this one does not have a setting for it. I just installed a Viper remote starter (also made by DEI, like Valet) in my sister's Tacoma and had the same issue, but changing the default MT setting to AT solved it.

For yours, just ground that wire.

[camry09]

Success!!!!! its alive and working, 3x time hit Close and it starts up

The only thing it doesn't want to open from Remove while vehicle is running, will have to use the key to open the doors for now till can figure that out

A special thank you to STScott for helping with advice

[JBinc]

I've go an interesting issue. 2007 Yaris sedan, no factory alarm, no engine immobilizer, power locks. I followed the DIY PDF to install U1272 Ultra Start. Had remote lock/unlock functionality with park lamp flash using either of the two fobs, but remote start did not work when I pressed the star button and the horn did not sound with any command. The strange things is that it would remote start intermittently when I pressed the star button, then lock button.

I entered programming mode and was working through the lock button menus when the car suddenly started but never disengaged the starter :eek:. I tried pressing the brake then turning the key to OFF (normal to stop remote start functionality), but that didn't work. After some panic, I pulled power to the remote start module. Now every time I apply power to the module, the vehicle instantly cranks, but won't start. I have the hood up (hood switch open) and key is out of ignition--doesn't matter. Continuity is good on the black starter wire to yellow wire from remote starter module. None of the wires of the 6 pin remote starter connector are shorted to ground (continuity checked). Is there somewhere I can check to see if the module could be giving ground when it shouldn't. Please help!

[JBinc]

One other note--now when I plug in the connector on the remote starter side for door lock/unlock my lock button on the door switch panel does not work, but unlock does. If I disconnect the connector again, the lock and unlock work when using the door switch panel (normal functionality).

[CTScott]

I've go an interesting issue. 2007 Yaris sedan, no factory alarm, no engine immobilizer, power locks. I followed the DIY PDF to install 1172 Ultra Start. Had remote lock/unlock functionality with park lamp flash using either of the two fobs, but remote start did not work when I pressed the star button and the horn did not sound with any command. The strange things is that it would remote start intermittently when I pressed the star button, then lock button.

I entered programming mode and was working through the lock button menus when the car suddenly started but never disengaged the starter :eek:. I tried pressing the brake then turning the key to OFF (normal to stop remote start functionality), but that didn't work. After some panic, I pulled power to the remote start module. Now every time I apply power to the module, the vehicle instantly cranks, but won't start. I have the hood up (hood switch open) and key is out of ignition--doesn't matter. Continuity is good on the black starter wire to yellow wire from remote starter module. None of the wires of the 6 pin remote starter connector are shorted to ground (continuity checked). Is there somewhere I can check to see if the module could be giving ground when it shouldn't. Please help!

It sounds like the relay for the starter is stuck closed. Try giving the remote start unit a good hard slap with your hand to see if it will unstick. Even if it does, I would not trust it and would get it replaced. I recently went through two bad units before getting a good one, with a Viper remote starter that I installed for a friend.

[JBinc]

It sounds like the relay for the starter is stuck closed. Try giving the remote start unit a good hard slap with your hand to see if it will unstick. Even if it does, I would not trust it and would get it replaced. I recently went through two bad units before getting a good one, with a Viper remote starter that I installed for a friend.

I gave it a few solid slaps this morning. No luck. I'll contact Ultra Starters and see if they will warranty it. Have you had luck with the manufacturer replacing the unit under warranty in this scenario?

[CTScott]

I haven't had one of theirs fail. They theoretically only sell to authorized installers, so you will likely have to deal with who you bought it from.

[JBinc]

I spoke to the seller--fairly simple. They're sending a replacement module. Thanks for your help thus far.

[pennyracer]

hi CTScott you have giving me some info in the past of a few different topics my only trouble i have had for years on my 08 yaris lb with power package is when my car is stored in a building for months at a time even with a trickle charger hooked up my battery will drain completely i have a python 571xp remotoe start with keyless entry i have pulled all my fuses for the stereo and amps trying to isolate this constant draw did not help then sometimes the cars will be stored same way battery stays up i keep telling my stereo guy its not the car itself but im sure wondering these days i have used yellow top optima and oddessy battery for longer life still not holding out when stored i do run a 180 amp dc alternator had the problem before and after alt install what do you think would cause this draw to be there most of the time and others not ? any advise from you would be awsome you are the yarisworld info king here oh no others add ons installed on my yaris just a little radio work and remote start and keyless entry only

[CTScott]

hi CTScott you have giving me some info in the past of a few different topics my only trouble i have had for years on my 08 yaris lb with power package is when my car is stored in a building for months at a time even with a trickle charger hooked up my battery will drain completely i have a python 571xp remotoe start with keyless entry i have pulled all my fuses for the stereo and amps trying to isolate this constant draw did not help then sometimes the cars will be stored same way battery stays up i keep telling my stereo guy its not the car itself but im sure wondering these days i have used yellow top optima and oddessy battery for longer life still not holding out when stored i do run a 180 amp dc alternator had the problem before and after alt install what do you think would cause this draw to be there most of the time and others not ? any advise from you would be awsome you are the yarisworld info king here oh no others add ons installed on my yaris just a little radio work and remote start and keyless entry only


The Yaris has one of the highest static draws that I have ever seen on a car (~100 mA), which by itself will drain a battery is less than a month. Add a remote starter and you are up in the 200-250 mA range, where 2 weeks without starting it is pushing it. Your trickle charger may just not be enough to counteract the static draw. I use a battery quick disconnect switch on Crashy.

[pennyracer]

okay is there a way if i have a professional wire my new alarm with remote start to have a remote function on a relay to kill the remote start draw when i store the car to slow the draw down i like the idea of a battery isolator just have to re program the head unit after each time i get my car out of storage to drive i am in the process of adding a second or even a third battery to build up the battery reserve for the radio and crazy voltage draw they will be mounted in the rear behind back seat quarters panels have you seen my new a pillar speaker addition still have to get the grills installed for the complete stealth look http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/yaris%20apillers.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc74/boydstir2291/yaris%20apillers-1.jpg

[pennyracer]

one more question ctscott what brand would you spend your money on for complete security , remote start and gps tracking ? seems my only two options these days are viper or CompuStar ? sorry to be off topic here

[CTScott]

No. The receiver for the remote is what creates the extra drain.

Nice speaker install on the pillars!

[Tanes70]

Hi, I'm trying to install a remote starter on 2010 Toyota Yaris with immobilizer. I Use your guide to find all the wires and was easy to connect everything, but the starter didn't work... I'm a little confused with this car because I don't know if it has an alarm system or not. It has power doors and panic bottom on the key. I made the following connections between the remote starter module and the car: Ignition 1 on remote starter to the green wire in the car, Ignition 2 to the pink cable on the car, Accessory to the white one, and the Start to the black wire. I connect the bypass module as directed and it seems to be ok. Brake, parking lights, tach signal, horn and hood safety switch, were connected according with your wiring guide. So I have some doubts on the Ignition cables (should I use the green cable as ignition 2 and the pink one as ignition 1?) and should I use the alarm disarm wire on the module? If yes where must be connect it?
Thanks any help would be appreciated.
Sincerely, Andres.

[CTScott]

Hi, I'm trying to install a remote starter on 2010 Toyota Yaris with immobilizer. I Use your guide to find all the wires and was easy to connect everything, but the starter didn't work... I'm a little confused with this car because I don't know if it has an alarm system or not. It has power doors and panic bottom on the key. I made the following connections between the remote starter module and the car: Ignition 1 on remote starter to the green wire in the car, Ignition 2 to the pink cable on the car, Accessory to the white one, and the Start to the black wire. I connect the bypass module as directed and it seems to be ok. Brake, parking lights, tach signal, horn and hood safety switch, were connected according with your wiring guide. So I have some doubts on the Ignition cables (should I use the green cable as ignition 2 and the pink one as ignition 1?) and should I use the alarm disarm wire on the module? If yes where must be connect it?
Thanks any help would be appreciated.
Sincerely, Andres.

I have installed three myself based on my guide. Did you install a transponder key bypass module, as one will be necessary on any 09+ due to the immobilizer.

[Tanes70]

OK. The TVIP OEM Alarm has a 36 pin connector:

31700


Pin 12 (white/light blue wire) goes to a starter cut relay, so you will need to follow that wire to the starter cut relay, and tap the Black Wire coming off of that relay with your start wire. On a non-alarm car that would be the black wires on the ignition switch connector.

Pin 9 (orange wire) is the ignition switch power input to the TVIP, so if it actually needs the (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM) connection, that's where it would be done.


The key sense wire is the yellow wire on the two pin connector that is near the face of the keyswitch.
Where is this connector located?

[Tanes70]

I have installed three myself based on my guide. Did you install a transponder key bypass module, as one will be necessary on any 09+ due to the immobilizer.
Yes, I installed the bypass module, and it's all set. I was reading in this forum and realized that I connect the start wire to the black wire on the starter harness so probably that's the problem, so I have to find the TVIP OEM Alarm connector which I don't know where is located at, and connect the start wire on Pin #12... Also how I know if I should connect the (+) Ignition Output to the pin 9 on the TVIP OEM Alarm connector?
Thanks again for your quick response.

[CTScott]

Yes, I installed the bypass module, and it's all set. I was reading in this forum and realized that I connect the start wire to the black wire on the starter harness so probably that's the problem, so I have to find the TVIP OEM Alarm connector which I don't know where is located at, and connect the start wire on Pin #12... Also how I know if I should connect the (+) Ignition Output to the pin 9 on the TVIP OEM Alarm connector?
Thanks again for your quick response.

The TVIP module should be to the right behind the glove box. I haven't done one with the TVIP system, but it does intercept the starter signal. I am not sure if the car will start if you bypass that connection, or if you will make the alarm trigger when you do so. You really have to disarm the TVIP before starting.

[thomascuba]

Dear CTScott;

I have successfully installed a 2 Way - RadioStart remote starter on a 2007 5 door HB automatic w/o inmobilizer. It does locks and unlocks the doors and starts the car.

I do still have more than 17 cables to connect. That's why I need your help on finding them and if possible pictures of their location and colors.

In theory as it is right now you can drive away when the car is started via remote, so I need to connect more inputs to ensure safety since the car will be driven by my wife.

Questions:
1- Are the two green wires on top of the break switch a +12V signal when break is depressed? Conn A13 Pin 1 as per your DIY manual (very hard to measure voltage due to accessibility)
2- Is there any unique cable that goes to ground when any door is opened or that goes to 12V when any door is opened?
3- Ignition Input of Key Cylinder (+) Ignition wire that provides +12V when Ignition is on and while cranking the starter. Green Conn 8 Pin 1. There is already a cable from the started connected to this one. Should I tap the input to the remote to the same cable?
4- If I inject ground to Conn D4 pin 13 white wire or inject +12V to Conn 4 Pin 29 Green will either action turn on the same lights (Parking Lights)?
5- Are the Parking lights the same as Hazard lights and turning lights?

Thanks!

[tmontague]

Alright I took some time and sat down and read through the installation manual to get the install ready for tomorrow. since Dan's DIY is no longer available on line (if anyone has it please let me know) I have a few Q's regarding the wiring. I am installing just a keyless entry (viper 211hv)

1. For the dome light output coming from the viper harness, what wire do I tap into on the 4k connector? I looked at the Toyota wiring diagram and from my understanding it would be the pink wire. I'm still learning how to read the diagrams so it'd be great if someone with experience can confirm this for me. I know the dome light input goes to a ground so that one is easy.

2. In CTScotts guide at the very bottom for the keyless entry part it shows "transponder key bypass module connections" Do I need to tap into these just for a keyless entry (no remote start or alarm)? My understanding was I only need to connect the Viper Modules yellow wire to ignition so that I could get the locks to unlock when the ignition is off.

3. Where do I connect the viper blue wire "second unlock output" so that I have progressive unlocking? From my research my understanding is to connect it to the brown doors lock wire, is this correct?

4. Do I need to bother with any of the other wires that go to the ignition such as "unlock 87a normally closed" if all I want is for the ignition to unlock the locks when turned off? Or is just the yellow viper wire connected to 12v ignition adequate enough?

Thanks guys

[tmontague]

Got in all wired up. Unlock/lock works, dome light goes on for 1minute when unlocked.

However there is no horn when locked or when panic is pressed. I can hear the relay in the viper module trying to signal for the horn but nothing happens.

My horn works fine if I press the steering wheel.

Also my parking lights do not flash either. Any ideas on what I should be checking?

[tmontague]

Just tried to start the car. As soon as key goes to start a click is heard and all power dies. Only way to get power back on is to disconnect , battery and then the same thing will happen again.

Here is a summary of what wires I connected to what:

H1/1 Red- connected to male bottom terminal in under dash fuse panel (the viper module is receiving power) so this wire is good
H1/2 blue- not connected
H1/3 black/white- connected to ground (works as dome light turn on/off w/ keyless unlock)
H1/4 black/white -connected to pink wire in 4K connected in underdash panel (works as dome light turns on/off with keyless unlock)
H1/5 green/black -connected to brown lock wire on CTScotts guide (works because the keyless fob locks the doors)
H1/6 white/black- not connected
H1/7 violoet/black- connected to ground (works because lock function works on fob
H1/8 blue/black- connected to green unlock wire on CTScotts guide (works because unlock function works on fob)
H1/9 violet- connected to ground
H1/10 white- connected to parking light (-)flask white wire in CTScott's guide on the headlight switch connector
H1/11 black- connected to ground
H1/12 brown - connected to black horn wire in CTScott's guide
H1/13 -not connected
H1/14 -not connected
H1/15 Yellow- connected to the white ignition accessory wire in CTScott's guide (I disconnected it and the car still shuts off all power when you try and start it as I thought maybe this wire was the culprit)
H1/16 -not connected
H1/17 -not connected
H1/16 - not connected

only have the lock and unlock function working as well as the dome light (goes on for 1 min when car is unlocked using fob)

parking lights do not flash and horn doesn't beep when locked 2x. Horn works when pressing the steering wheel button.

When panic is pushed I can hear the relay in the viper module trying to set off the horns but the relay under the hood isn't triggered.

When the car is turned to start a click is heard and all power is shut off from the car. It stays this way until the ecu is reset by unplugging the negative battery terminal. This seems to be an immobilizer issue that is doing this.

If anyone sees an issue with my wiring or sees that I wired to a wrong wire please let me know. I'm out of town for a few days but am hoping to have the car up and running when I get back.
Any help is appreciated...

[CTScott]

Alright I took some time and sat down and read through the installation manual to get the install ready for tomorrow. since Dan's DIY is no longer available on line (if anyone has it please let me know) I have a few Q's regarding the wiring. I am installing just a keyless entry (viper 211hv)

1. For the dome light output coming from the viper harness, what wire do I tap into on the 4k connector? I looked at the Toyota wiring diagram and from my understanding it would be the pink wire. I'm still learning how to read the diagrams so it'd be great if someone with experience can confirm this for me. I know the dome light input goes to a ground so that one is easy.

2. In CTScotts guide at the very bottom for the keyless entry part it shows "transponder key bypass module connections" Do I need to tap into these just for a keyless entry (no remote start or alarm)? My understanding was I only need to connect the Viper Modules yellow wire to ignition so that I could get the locks to unlock when the ignition is off.

3. Where do I connect the viper blue wire "second unlock output" so that I have progressive unlocking? From my research my understanding is to connect it to the brown doors lock wire, is this correct?

4. Do I need to bother with any of the other wires that go to the ignition such as "unlock 87a normally closed" if all I want is for the ignition to unlock the locks when turned off? Or is just the yellow viper wire connected to 12v ignition adequate enough?

Thanks guys


1. Dome light is the pink wire of the three wires in the connector to the lower left on page 3 (labeled: power connection)

2. For keyless entry you do not need the transponder key bypass module (or the connections for it)

3. For progressive unlocking you don't need a second output - You just have to pulse the unlock wire twice with the keyless entry system (if it supports that function. If not, you would connect the second output to the same wire as the first output).

4. I would need to see the book for the unit to verify, but unlock on ignition off should not require anything more than sensing the ignition losing power.

[CTScott]

Got in all wired up. Unlock/lock works, dome light goes on for 1minute when unlocked.

However there is no horn when locked or when panic is pressed. I can hear the relay in the viper module trying to signal for the horn but nothing happens.

My horn works fine if I press the steering wheel.

Also my parking lights do not flash either. Any ideas on what I should be checking?

I just looked at my document (which I haven't looked at in a couple of years) and I show the wring connector for the horn. It should be the white connector, which just has the single black wire in it (no other wires for an 06-08) or the black and a brown and blue for 09-11.

For the parking light flash, are you using the + or - flash?

[CTScott]

Just tried to start the car. As soon as key goes to start a click is heard and all power dies. Only way to get power back on is to disconnect , battery and then the same thing will happen again.

Here is a summary of what wires I connected to what:

H1/1 Red- connected to male bottom terminal in under dash fuse panel (the viper module is receiving power) so this wire is good
Correct

H1/2 blue- not connected
Correct

H1/3 black/white- connected to ground (works as dome light turn on/off w/ keyless unlock)
Correct

H1/4 black/white -connected to pink wire in 4K connected in underdash panel (works as dome light turns on/off with keyless unlock)
Correct

H1/5 green/black -connected to brown lock wire on CTScotts guide (works because the keyless fob locks the doors)
Correct

H1/6 white/black- not connected
Correct

H1/7 violoet/black- connected to ground (works because lock function works on fob
Correct

H1/8 blue/black- connected to green unlock wire on CTScotts guide (works because unlock function works on fob)
Correct

H1/9 violet- connected to ground
Correct

H1/10 white- connected to parking light (-)flask white wire in CTScott's guide on the headlight switch connector
Correct if the wire in pin 10 (4th from the right in that same row) is white/black. If it is green, then you have to use the + parking light flash

H1/11 black- connected to ground
Correct

H1/12 brown - connected to black horn wire in CTScott's guide
See my note in my response above about the correct connector

H1/13 -not connected
Correct

H1/14 -not connected
Correct

H1/15 Yellow- connected to the white ignition accessory wire in CTScott's guide (I disconnected it and the car still shuts off all power when you try and start it as I thought maybe this wire was the culprit)
Incorrect - This is an ignition input to the keyless entry system that has to stay hot even during cranking. This should be connected to the pink wire on the ignition switch connector, not the white accessory wire, which drops when cranking

H1/16 -not connected
Correct

H1/17 -not connected
Correct

H1/16 - not connected
Correct

only have the lock and unlock function working as well as the dome light (goes on for 1 min when car is unlocked using fob)

parking lights do not flash and horn doesn't beep when locked 2x. Horn works when pressing the steering wheel button.

When panic is pushed I can hear the relay in the viper module trying to set off the horns but the relay under the hood isn't triggered.

When the car is turned to start a click is heard and all power is shut off from the car. It stays this way until the ecu is reset by unplugging the negative battery terminal. This seems to be an immobilizer issue that is doing this.

If anyone sees an issue with my wiring or sees that I wired to a wrong wire please let me know. I'm out of town for a few days but am hoping to have the car up and running when I get back.
Any help is appreciated...


See my comments above in red.

[tmontague]

thanks CTScott for taking the time to answer my Q's. I understand where I made the mistakes now.

Can you explain to me what you mean about the horn wire? If it turns out that I have the connector that needs a + parking light pulse than what does that mean for my horn connection? What other wire would there be to tap into the horn and what determines if I need to use a different wire?

Can I tap into the green ignition wire instead of the pink? Both are 12v ignition and the thicker gauge of the green makes it easier to tap with my t taps due to their sizing

I'm curious as to what caused the immobilizer to shut everything down, obviously a wrong wire I tapped into but what specifically causes this? It happened when I installed my HID's as well until I put on a proper functioning ballast (the original one was defective)

Thanks

[CTScott]

thanks CTScott for taking the time to answer my Q's. I understand where I made the mistakes now.

Can you explain to me what you mean about the horn wire? If it turns out that I have the connector that needs a + parking light pulse than what does that mean for my horn connection? What other wire would there be to tap into the horn and what determines if I need to use a different wire?

For the horn wire, the picture I included was the incorrect picture. The correct connector is the one on the left in the picture below. The horn is a ground to honk wire (i.e. -).

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Yaris%20Cruise%20Control/ConnD3.jpg

Can I tap into the green ignition wire instead of the pink? Both are 12v ignition and the thicker gauge of the green makes it easier to tap with my t taps due to their sizing
Yes - The green would be fine as well.


I'm curious as to what caused the immobilizer to shut everything down, obviously a wrong wire I tapped into but what specifically causes this? It happened when I installed my HID's as well until I put on a proper functioning ballast (the original one was defective)
I am not sure, as the immobilizer only prevents starting - It can not kill the running engine.


Thanks



...

[tmontague]

Great, thanks

I'm assuming the black wire is the horn wire on the connector you were talking about?

As for the immobilizer is makes a sound like a fuse blowing or something and instantly all power is gone as if the battery is disconnected. The car actually never starts cranking because as soon as you turn the key power goes off. The only thing that allows power again is to disconnect the battery for a few seconds and then it's back.

[CTScott]

Great, thanks

I'm assuming the black wire is the horn wire on the connector you were talking about?

As for the immobilizer is makes a sound like a fuse blowing or something and instantly all power is gone as if the battery is disconnected. The car actually never starts cranking because as soon as you turn the key power goes off. The only thing that allows power again is to disconnect the battery for a few seconds and then it's back.

Correct on the black wire.

The second part is definitely wrong and is definitely not the immobilizer.

[tmontague]

I just saw your post above about the horn connector, I missed it earlier.

I think it has something to do with too much power going to the ecu and it shutting d power to not incur any damage.

I just checked all my wires. My ignition and my horn were wired wrong. My parking light one was correct on the white (-) wire as I don't have the green wire it is white/black. Not sure as to why the parking lights aren't triggered. I will check the tap as my taps are rated for slightly bigger wires so it takes a little extra time to ensure proper connection.

When I'm back in town in a few days i'll re tap the incorrect wires and purchase some smaller t taps. Hopefully that'll fix the issue.

I recently wired in superspeed horns that must have a lose connector or ground somewhere as they sometimes work and are as of right now not working. The relay clicks so I can tell if the viper is triggering it or not. I'll have to remove the bumper and look at the horn connections once everything is done.

[tmontague]

Just reconnected the 3 wires properly horn now works with the second press of the lock. However my parking lights still are not blinking.

The parking lights do work when switched on, but the key fob does not trigger them to blink. I checked the t taps and they have tapped into the wires properly.

Am I able to tap into the turn signals instead instead the the lights? I'd like to try that since the parking light wires don't seem to be triggering the lights.

Any ideas?