how do I connect an amp to a standard head unit?

[marshall_8up]

hey jus wonderin if i can connect an amp to a standard head unit? i want to run a sub and 2 6x9's off the amp, without modifying the original system too much. if so, then how? would there be aux out ports on the head unit for the amp? or can i run the amp in parallel with a speaker?

[YarisSedan]

I thought about doing the same thing but ended up just changing the head unit. The sound quality is just so so much better. Even with a low priced head unit you will see great results.

[IsLNdbOi]

To answer the OP's question, you'll need a line out converter:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i331_line-out-converters.html

You connect them to the speaker wires and then the amp. to the RCA jacks on the converter.

[GeneralDon7]

To answer the OP's question, you'll need a line out converter:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i331_line-out-converters.html

You connect them to the speaker wires and then the amp. to the RCA jacks on the converter.

Exactly what I did for mine, my converter is attached to the undepanel on the passengers side.

[teejayy]

hey jus wonderin if i can connect an amp to a standard head unit? i want to run a sub and 2 6x9's off the amp, without modifying the original system too much. if so, then how? would there be aux out ports on the head unit for the amp? or can i run the amp in parallel with a speaker?
It is worth checking your amplifier for high-level imputs, it wont be hard to find them they are generally next to RCA imput. Many amplifiers have high-level inputs and do not require RCA signal wires to operate. This could save you time and money.

[RUFFSTUFF]

It is worth checking your amplifier for high-level imputs, it wont be hard to find them they are generally next to RCA imput. Many amplifiers have high-level inputs and do not require RCA signal wires to operate. This could save you time and money.



+1

[yaris2010RS]

i wanna do the same.... that unit, does it convert the sound or is it jsut an easy way to connect L-R speaker wires and convert them to aux? if so i can jsut splice them....

[talnlnky]

LOC's are are cool concept... but systems using them pretty much blow. Start with a quality deck, then continue installing quality parts after it including amp & speakers.

If you use a crappy deck (stock)... and then buy better speakers & an amp... you'll still be getting crappy sound.

I personally run dual 8's off the stock deck using LOC's that are built into a small amp I have.... It tides me over until I can get some time, money, and a garage to work with for the two weeks needed for my install, but I wouldn't recommend it to anybody unless they had less than $200 to spend on their entire install.

Even with as little as $500 you could make a cheap yet modest system with a sub. Without a sub you could easily do it for $300, but don't expect any bass.

$100 for deck with pre-outs
$100 for a 50x4 watt amp
$100 for A pair of 6.5" components + 18awg speaker wire & rca cable.
$50 for fuse holder & 4awg welding cable (for power and grounds)
$100 for a cheap 10" plus materials to make a small sealed box.

[ryota]

It is worth checking your amplifier for high-level imputs, it wont be hard to find them they are generally next to RCA imput. Many amplifiers have high-level inputs and do not require RCA signal wires to operate. This could save you time and money.

+2

[sqcomp]

On the other hand an LOC is an appropriate way to keep the stock deck.

The last install I did was on my wife's truck. I absolutely know she doesn't like too much change. We used a Streetwires ReQ to a Powerbass ASA 700.5. We are pushing an Exile Audio component set and a single 8" woofer in a sealed enclosure.

As for sound...the noise floor is nice an low, there is no whining, no ground loops, nothing. The four channels are bridged into two with the mono channel pushing 4 Ohms. The sound is a heck of a lot more full and accurate than the stock system. That little 8" woofer is a blessing, giving kick drums some very real life.

As for "crappy" sound, I'd beg to differ in my case...Although the ReQ isn't a regular cheap a$$ LOC that you're probably talking about. It does a little more without breaking the bank.

http://www.reqsound.com/PASreview_reQ.pdf

[vten]

hi sqcomp,

the ReQ I believe is from MTX, not the streetwires brand ...:biggrin:

you're actually just gave me an idea how to use my OEM HU with my amps without getting being to flashy :wink:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0v23DhoYBJd/p_236REQ/MTX-re-Q.html?tab=other_items&viewAll=True :thumbup:

I have the eclipse navigation, unit but Im affraid to put it on ...theft reason :mad:

[yaris2010RS]

lmao....okay, wow, that helped me i think...... not gonna lie, it was chinese to me. jsut to make sure i somewhat get it.... LOC is line out converter.... and i dont mind the quality of sound now, all i want is boom....
here is my idea of how i planned to hook it up and what i planned to have

stock HU
to
Amp(with power storage thing)
to
12-in Sub(maybe 2)

what i understand between the HU and the Amp i need an LOC..... or do i... what does it do.

My main question (i think) is how to hook up the RCA cable and remote to the HU.

i have hooked up many systems before but we used aftermarket deck and all i had to do was hook it up, no planning before hand (i did do some makeshift installs when people were too cheap to get proper harnes and such.)

[teejayy]

yaris2010RS, if you gave me your Amplifier's name I could answer this more accurately.

Essentially a Line Output Converter converts high-voltage speaker-level signals from your Head Unit down to an acceptable pre-amp level signal ideal for Amplifiers. You then connect the Line Output Converter to an appropriate Amplifier using RCA patch cables. If you purchase a Line Output Converter with a remote trigger, which is advisable, it will turn on your Amplifier when it detects an output on your factory speaker wires.

Of course if your Amplifier has built in Speaker-Level Imputs (can be called High-Level Imputs) you can use these instead of going down the Line Output Conveter route. Essentially the Amplifier has built-in circuitry which uses the Low Impedance, High-Level Output from factory speaker wire as an Imput. The Amplifier uses signal sensing so when the Head Unit is turned on and an audio signal is on the speaker wire, the Amplifier "sees" the audio signal and turns on, eliminating the need for a separate remote lead from the head unit.

If your Amplifier doesn't have Speaker-Level Imputs then a Line Output Converter is an ideal solution. There are many Line Output Converters on the market, Crutchfield sell a Scosche SLC4 which is an ideal solution if your are aiming to use a multi channel amplifier. I have also heard good things about David Navone products, and I know that some of his products do include Remote Triggers.

Once you've got the Amplifier working off the standard Head Unit, the rest of the install is a piece of cake!

If you feel that information is not accurate please do correct me, but I have answered this to the best of my ability.

Good Luck with the install!

[sqcomp]

Vten...

Streetwires and MTX are under the same conglomerate umbrella of Mitek. Essentially the same company for all intensive purposes.

The nice thing about the ReQ is that it adjusts for the stock source's attenuation of the bass frequencies whereas a lot of the cheaper LOCs don't.

Take a look:

http://www.reqsound.com/ Notice it says streetwires in the upper left hand corner :P

and

http://www.reqsound.com/manual/MKC002562_re-Q_Installation_sheet.pdf

Also, the AS2000 (David Navone) products are solid elementary pieces. I have an NE-774V sitting in my closet for whatever project I deem needed.

[vten]

oh cool , I didn't know that :redface:

navone LOC is a good stuff , I also have the navone 774V LOC sitting around somewhere , but it doesn't have the remote out for an aftermarket amps , unlike the ReQ....:thumbsup:

[yaris2010RS]

yaris2010RS, if you gave me your Amplifier's name I could answer this more accurately.

Essentially a Line Output Converter converts high-voltage speaker-level signals from your Head Unit down to an acceptable pre-amp level signal ideal for Amplifiers. You then connect the Line Output Converter to an appropriate Amplifier using RCA patch cables. If you purchase a Line Output Converter with a remote trigger, which is advisable, it will turn on your Amplifier when it detects an output on your factory speaker wires.

Of course if your Amplifier has built in Speaker-Level Imputs (can be called High-Level Imputs) you can use these instead of going down the Line Output Conveter route. Essentially the Amplifier has built-in circuitry which uses the Low Impedance, High-Level Output from factory speaker wire as an Imput. The Amplifier uses signal sensing so when the Head Unit is turned on and an audio signal is on the speaker wire, the Amplifier "sees" the audio signal and turns on, eliminating the need for a separate remote lead from the head unit.

If your Amplifier doesn't have Speaker-Level Imputs then a Line Output Converter is an ideal solution. There are many Line Output Converters on the market, Crutchfield sell a Scosche SLC4 which is an ideal solution if your are aiming to use a multi channel amplifier. I have also heard good things about David Navone products, and I know that some of his products do include Remote Triggers.

Once you've got the Amplifier working off the standard Head Unit, the rest of the install is a piece of cake!

If you feel that information is not accurate please do correct me, but I have answered this to the best of my ability.

Good Luck with the install!

wow, thanks so much. i haven't gotten anything yet, i wanted to do a mock up to know exactly how to hook it up with stock HU. i wanna build my box and sink it into the trunk before i start with amps and wiring.

one otherthing, is it really that important to have the fuse within a foot of the battery or can i have it right by the amp?

[talnlnky]

LOC means Level output converter... the voltage levels is the issue, deck outputs high voltage to the speakers... but pre-amps meant to go to an amplifier are low voltage lines... the LOC converts high voltage signal to a low voltage signal.

Even if you get a high quality LOC.... you're still limited to the quality of the deck... which I personally don't think is that great. Lots of issues with reliability, and I question its SQ performance as well.

[centrysis]

i'd put the fuse close to the battery.not only does the fuse protect the amp,it also protects the run of wire going to the amp.or so i've been told

[sqcomp]

Fuse the power wire within 18" of the battery.

Taln, you sure about that "Level output converter"? "Line output converter" is how I read the box. Aside from the nit-picky title, I agree with you for the most part on the idea of polishing a turd. Heck, you of all people on this board know what I'm in to right now...and stock isn't it. I use the ReQ because It is a nice little cross between an LOC, line driver, and bass booster for one's stock source. It seemed to be a viable alternative to the cheap LOCs most look at and didn't break the bank like a JL Clean sweep or a RF 360.2.

Personally, in my wife's Tacoma, she didn't want to change the look at all. She said she was happy with the stock source. I feel that the ReQ is an excellent choice for three reasons. One, it keeps her happy. Two, it gives me enough signal voltage to the amplifier to have a low noise floor. Three, because it has some nice adjustability with gain output and low frequency crossover points. All of that, you're right. I still have a the weakest link at the source. However, Toyota will replace it if it goes out and the wife is more than happy with my equipment...err...choice. Seriously though, when we have an opportunity to get together after I get back, you should really hear the Tacoma. I think you'd like the result.

Hey Taln...speaking of what I'm in to, check this out:

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/01-07-10_11471.jpg

You mean...these aren't stock? he he...

I haven't given the "old" L1 Pros power yet, and I've already replaced them! Know anyone who can use a bad a$$ pair of tweeters?

[yaris2010RS]

my friend got a giant fuse, looks sick and its the actual functional one(its 1.5 foot long with lights inside and shit) and he mounted it in the back of his suv right near the amp(maybe 10in away from the amp) and i was wondering if he could be in any trouble with that

[sqcomp]

The amplifier is a bass amplifier, correct? I'd have no problem with double fusing...just as long as the one by the battery is the lower Amperage one. I'm very familiar with using a battery or battery near the amplifier...

Do you have a picture of this fuse setup?

You're not taking a distro block - : http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk316/teamhybridstrinidad/Misc/DSC00006.jpg

[ThaddeusSkync]

LOC's are are cool concept... but systems using them pretty much blow. Start with a quality deck, then continue installing quality parts after it including amp & speakers.

If you use a crappy deck (stock)... and then buy better speakers & an amp... you'll still be getting crappy sound.

I personally run dual 8's off the stock deck using LOC's that are built into a small amp I have.... It tides me over until I can get some time, money, and a garage to work with for the two weeks needed for my install, but I wouldn't recommend it to anybody unless they had less than $200 to spend on their entire install.

Even with as little as $500 you could make a cheap yet modest system with a sub. Without a sub you could easily do it for $300, but don't expect any bass.

$100 for deck with pre-outs
$100 for a 50x4 watt amp
$100 for A pair of 6.5" components + 18awg speaker wire & rca cable.
$50 for fuse holder & 4awg welding cable (for power and grounds)
$100 for a cheap 10" plus materials to make a small sealed box.

hey talnlnky it seems that you know yourself around car stereos. I was wondering what kind of 8" subs do you have? Sorry for being off topic and resurrecting this old thread.

I'm looking to add one or two 8" subs for some bass. Can you recommend me one? I've been looking all over the internet to find decent reviews and most of them are hype. Plus all the amazon horror stories aren't that encouraging either. What do you think of alpine woofers? I've shortlisted them because they seem to have a consistent quality. Also I have came across this best alpine subwoofers (https://greatestspeakers.com/best-alpine-subwoofers/) post that seems to be legit. Would you recommend to go with alpine or choose something else?

I'm open for suggestions.