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Fazulka
01-12-2010, 03:19 PM
I read several threads on installing cruise control on the 07-08 yaris and decided to try it, but it doesn't work.

I inserted a wire to the hole for pin 40 on the A21 connector as shown in several threads. I metered this connection and found that the connection works, I get 12.6-12.8 volts when the car is on from the other end of the wire.

I decided to do the 4 button install and bought 4 N.O. push buttons and installed them on the empty power mirror panel. I purchased 3 packs of resistors, 220 ohm, 150 ohm, and 680 ohm.

Between on/off and +/res I soldered 1 220 ohm (According to my meter it was actually 217). Between +/res and -/set I soldered a 220 and a 150 (370 total, measures 365). Between -/set and cancel I soldered a 680 and a 220 (900 total measures 884).

After building it and testing it, I found it didn't work. I added a 22 ohm resistor between on/off and +/res to bring it closer to the middle of the acceptable ranges. It still didn't work.

I hooked the the meter to the leads coming out of the buttons and checked the impedance I am getting from this thing I built. They show:

No buttons pressed - 1 / no connection
on/off button pressed - 1 ohm (possibly from alligator clips connecting leads to device)
+/res - 239 ohms
-/set - 604 ohms
cancel - 1487 ohms

The car runs exactly as before, so I don't think I messed anything up. There is no light on the dash to turn on, so i don't know if the system is turning on or not. Nothing appears to happen when I press any of the buttons.

Sorry for the long message, but I wanted to include enough info.

Any ideas why it doesn't work?

upgradedyaris
01-14-2010, 06:15 PM
OEM stalk, wire and panel with hole cut already for the cruise is less than 100 bucks, and, a 20 min install! So easy, a cave man could do it. ;)

Duane

b_hickman11
01-14-2010, 06:27 PM
OEM stalk, wire and panel with hole cut already for the cruise is less than 100 bucks, and, a 20 min install! So easy, a cave man could do it. ;)

Duane

Are you talking about the cruise that comes with the power package or the cruise that comes with the non-power?

upgradedyaris
01-14-2010, 11:21 PM
Are you talking about the cruise that comes with the power package or the cruise that comes with the non-power?

Well, my car is fully loaded minus the cruise which is why I bought it. I purchased the stalk and parts and it bolts in and good to go!

Duane

b_hickman11
01-14-2010, 11:24 PM
Well, my car is fully loaded minus the cruise which is why I bought it. I purchased the stalk and parts and it bolts in and good to go!

Duane

Does your cruise mount to the left or right of the steering wheel?

upgradedyaris
01-15-2010, 05:12 AM
Does your cruise mount to the left or right of the steering wheel?

Right side as do all in the US and Canada. Not sure about European or others...

b_hickman11
01-15-2010, 07:29 AM
Right side as do all in the US and Canada. Not sure about European or others...

The non-power cruise is mounted on the left and the one that comes with the power package is mounted on the right. So not all of them are on the right in the US.

CTScott
01-15-2010, 08:16 AM
I read several threads on installing cruise control on the 07-08 yaris and decided to try it, but it doesn't work.

I inserted a wire to the hole for pin 40 on the A21 connector as shown in several threads. I metered this connection and found that the connection works, I get 12.6-12.8 volts when the car is on from the other end of the wire.

I decided to do the 4 button install and bought 4 N.O. push buttons and installed them on the empty power mirror panel. I purchased 3 packs of resistors, 220 ohm, 150 ohm, and 680 ohm.

Between on/off and +/res I soldered 1 220 ohm (According to my meter it was actually 217). Between +/res and -/set I soldered a 220 and a 150 (370 total, measures 365). Between -/set and cancel I soldered a 680 and a 220 (900 total measures 884).

After building it and testing it, I found it didn't work. I added a 22 ohm resistor between on/off and +/res to bring it closer to the middle of the acceptable ranges. It still didn't work.

I hooked the the meter to the leads coming out of the buttons and checked the impedance I am getting from this thing I built. They show:

No buttons pressed - 1 / no connection
on/off button pressed - 1 ohm (possibly from alligator clips connecting leads to device)
+/res - 239 ohms
-/set - 604 ohms
cancel - 1487 ohms

The car runs exactly as before, so I don't think I messed anything up. There is no light on the dash to turn on, so i don't know if the system is turning on or not. Nothing appears to happen when I press any of the buttons.

Sorry for the long message, but I wanted to include enough info.

Any ideas why it doesn't work?


Does your Yaris have an automatic or manual transmission?

upgradedyaris
01-15-2010, 03:37 PM
The non-power cruise is mounted on the left and the one that comes with the power package is mounted on the right. So not all of them are on the right in the US.

Thanks, wasn't 100%.

CTScott
01-15-2010, 03:45 PM
Thanks, wasn't 100%.

And, if it's on the left it's a Rostra aftermarket cruise control (sometimes port or dealer installed), not a Toyota OEM stalk (which is always on the right).

Fazulka
01-16-2010, 08:15 AM
Does your Yaris have an automatic or manual transmission?

It has an automatic transmission.

CTScott
01-16-2010, 08:34 AM
It has an automatic transmission.

OK, so that means it's not the lack of the clutch cruise control switch.

Reading your initial post, it sounds like everything is correctly wired. The one thing you don't mention is where you grabbed the ground for the other leg of the switches. Make sure that you have a good solid ground.

Also. posting some pictures would help.

Fazulka
01-16-2010, 11:00 AM
OK, so that means it's not the lack of the clutch cruise control switch.

Reading your initial post, it sounds like everything is correctly wired. The one thing you don't mention is where you grabbed the ground for the other leg of the switches. Make sure that you have a good solid ground.

Also. posting some pictures would help.

Ok, I'll take some pictures this afternoon. I have one ground from a self tapping screw that is under the cover your knees would bump if you pulled the drivers seat too far forward. I am using it as ground for 2 other things, the remote start / keyless entry module and power door locks. Is that an ok place? Where would be better?

Fazulka
01-16-2010, 03:46 PM
Ok, images. Here is the ECU, you can see the wire I ran to it(green). You can't see the hole it went into, but I wrapped it in electrical tape tightly to keep dust out.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/4279124209_56240db8d5_b.jpg

The back of the buttons. Shows resistors and soldering.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4279867782_24e40e5f65_b.jpg

The whole thing. The wire nuts are so I can pull it off and change things as needed.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2699/4279123449_433c338556_b.jpg

Here it is in place. Looks great, but does nothing.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4279123253_d16963fe51_b.jpg

Let me know what you think. I can go take more pictures if needed.

CTScott
01-17-2010, 12:16 AM
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4279867782_24e40e5f65_b.jpg

So, in this picture (as viewed from the rear):

The top switch is on/off
The left switch is +/Resume (242 ohms)
The right switch is -/Set (370 ohms)
The bottom is Cancel (900 ohms)

All of them look fine, so how about a picture of the ECM connection point, just for a sanity check?

Your ground point sounds OK, particularly if the other devices are working fine.

Fazulka
01-17-2010, 12:26 AM
I'll take a picture of the ECM connection point in the morning (working now). The other devices hooked up to the ground point work perfectly, and it is nice and tight.

On a side note, I saw your "crashy" threads earlier this afternoon and got a huge kick out of them. It's really nice of you to offer your experience an knowledge on this forum. Thank you.

Fazulka
01-17-2010, 07:33 AM
Ok, here is the sanity check. Photos are a little dark and blurry, 1 second exposures at 7:20 in the morning after i worked all night. The wire I installed is dark green, and easily identifiable by the electrical tape on the base. Now that I look at it I am hoping my problem is just that I put it in the hole on the wrong side of the little valley.


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4280869157_3b6351a35d_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4280869227_93a654f5c5_b.jpg

CTScott
01-17-2010, 10:08 AM
Yes - That is exactly the problem. You should be next to the blue wire on the opposite side of the divider.

Fazulka
01-17-2010, 01:49 PM
Wow, I can't believe I put it in the wrong one. It works great now!

Oh, well, hopefully this thread will help anyone that wants to install it.

For anyone trying, there are several pictures besides the incorrect one above that you can look at. Just to describe the current location to anyone else it is the second one in from the passenger side edge of the connector, on the front/engine side of the little valley. It is right next to a blue wire.

Prices were:

$ .99 x 4 packages of resistors. Although 3 should have been fine, see above.
$2.49 x 2 for red switches
$2.69 x 2 for black switches
I bought 75 feet of wire, but not just for this project. I think it was $6.49
2 wire nuts (not required) i already had, but cheap
zip ties. I had them but cheap to buy.
Electrical tape (already had)
Solder (already had)

Total time was a 2-3 hrs. Would have been 30 minutes if I could figure out what I did wrong.

Thank you CTScott!